PDA

View Full Version : Random Tech Questions



Pages : 1 2 3 [4] 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

JB
11-23-2009, 03:00 PM
THanks for the info. I though about it and a magnetic base will work best, so that I can remove it to get it in the garage. I bought a Cobra 19 and a Lil Wilson from Amazon. The antenna had a bunch of good review and was not too overpriced. i think it is 30 something inches tall

DRAGOONRANCH
11-23-2009, 03:16 PM
Very good combo, you will like it.

KrazyKarl02
11-23-2009, 04:07 PM
I have seen 3 or 4 magnetic base mounts fly off on the trail when they drag on a branch, etc.. I would hard mount.

DRAGOONRANCH
11-24-2009, 12:09 AM
Flying off a few times beats breaking a hard mount. :D

stx4wheeler
11-24-2009, 01:37 AM
I would hard mount it.

Yikes, sailor...

KrazyKarl02
11-24-2009, 08:28 AM
Flying off a few times beats breaking a hard mount. :D

Most of the time, when the mag bases fly off, they hit a rock and smah into 1 million pieces. Either way I am just glad to see someone putting a CB in their rig.

FJAggie07
11-24-2009, 08:45 AM
Flying off a few times beats breaking a hard mount. :D

you ever heard of a spring? ;) I have only busted my hard mount once when my truck went flying backwards and a tree "kept me" from going end over end. The same tree smashed my antenna mount into my tube bed. good story i know.

DRAGOONRANCH
11-24-2009, 08:45 AM
A million pieces, really? Wow, way to go Mr. Overstater. I bet you tell some good fish stories.

http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/00/1a/95/b2/the-big-fish.jpg

:blackflipoff2:

DRAGOONRANCH
11-24-2009, 08:49 AM
you ever heard of a spring? ;) I have only busted my hard mount once when my truck went flying backwards and a tree "kept me" from going end over end. The same tree smashed my antenna mount into my tube bed. good story i know.

We are talking real world applications here, keep your big money items like springs out of it Mr. Monopoly Man.

http://blogs.sfweekly.com/thesnitch/assets_c/2009/07/monopoly_man-thumb-300x252.gif

you are correct sir, springs work well most of the time. I would venture to say that what ever you end up using, placement will be the key.

KrazyKarl02
11-24-2009, 09:15 AM
A million pieces, really? Wow, way to go Mr. Overstater. I bet you tell some good fish stories.

:blackflipoff2:

I counted every single one, I am telling the truth! and unlike you, I'll just show the flip off in color :flipoff2:

JB
11-24-2009, 09:16 AM
Its cool. I try to stay away from branches, or anything else that might damage my Broncos paint or body anyway.

DRAGOONRANCH
11-24-2009, 09:27 AM
So that's what you were doing last year, trying to wash it in that 'little puddle'. ;)

Seth
11-24-2009, 05:32 PM
I never seemed to have good luck with my CB, it is a regular cobra cb and 4 ft antenna with 12 ft coax. The antenna was mounted on the toolbox, could the cab blocking it have hurt it? Also I have heard that 18ft coax is better than 12ft. Any CB experts? Oh yeah, I had the antenna tuned or whatever also.

Also, anyone know a good site that shows what vehicles use a certain lug pattern? I am lloking for some cheap wheels to replace the crappy looking ones on my little chevy.

DRAGOONRANCH
11-24-2009, 11:31 PM
I was always told that cb antennas are tuned from the factory using an 18' coax (if they are non-tuneable models). The cab will block the signal a bit. Not having a 'clean power source' hurts alot of folks. They end up with alternator noise and have to add in so much squelch to quiet it down that they can't pick up a decent signal. Our local cb guy (who is a semi-quadriplegic by the way) has always told me that mounting it as close to the center of the vehicle is best. If it's at one end or the other, it will not pick up/transmit signals as good.

J Cooper
11-25-2009, 08:03 AM
...as well.


:flipoff2:

DRAGOONRANCH
11-25-2009, 09:26 AM
Nice catch cocks. :flipoff2:

Hot Pocket
11-25-2009, 05:57 PM
The CB in the humma would never transmit anything I said, but it would pick up all kinds of signals.

It was a cobra with an 18 ft coax, mounted on the back panel just above the spare tire.


Of course, I never did seem to have much luck with any mobile electronics :blackgrin:

stx4wheeler
11-25-2009, 06:33 PM
Does anyone know if all Dana 44 hi steer arms use the same bolt hole pattern to bolt to the knuckles?

Eckert
11-25-2009, 06:39 PM
Does anyone know if all Dana 44 hi steer arms use the same bolt hole pattern to bolt to the knuckles?

99% sure they are all the same.

Eckert
11-25-2009, 06:41 PM
i never had a problem with my old Cobra 25 and dual 4ft antennas(see hikeschool).

i was also sporting a 100w linear, so that might have had something to do with it :D

85cj7
11-25-2009, 09:39 PM
Does anyone know if all Dana 44 hi steer arms use the same bolt hole pattern to bolt to the knuckles?

yes they are all identical. Some d-44 arms will have an optional forward 4th hole to mount them to dedenbear aftermarket knuckles.

stx4wheeler
11-25-2009, 09:46 PM
Sweet now the frickoneer will full hi-steer. I got both arms stud kit and conical washers for.

Sharpe
11-26-2009, 02:50 AM
Crewcab is overheating a little. At around town speeds (under 50) it stays around 200 like its supposed to. At highway speeds it rises to ~220 and stays there. I replaced the radiator and thermostat today and its still doing it. I drove 4 1/2 hours with it running at ~220 and it didnt seem to cause any problems, but it has always held 200 with everything working. The only other things I can think of are the fan clutch and water pump. I replaced the pump around 2 years ago and it isnt leaking but I've never messed with the fan. Is 200000 hard miles a reasonable service life for a fan clutch? Is there a way to diagnose it for sure?

Hot Pocket
11-26-2009, 04:53 AM
Crewcab is overheating a little. At around town speeds (under 50) it stays around 200 like its supposed to. At highway speeds it rises to ~220 and stays there. I replaced the radiator and thermostat today and its still doing it. I drove 4 1/2 hours with it running at ~220 and it didnt seem to cause any problems, but it has always held 200 with everything working. The only other things I can think of are the fan clutch and water pump. I replaced the pump around 2 years ago and it isnt leaking but I've never messed with the fan. Is 200000 hard miles a reasonable service life for a fan clutch? Is there a way to diagnose it for sure?

Might help
http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/automotive/1772922.html?page=2

DRAGOONRANCH
11-26-2009, 09:26 AM
Crewcab is overheating a little. At around town speeds (under 50) it stays around 200 like its supposed to. At highway speeds it rises to ~220 and stays there. I replaced the radiator and thermostat today and its still doing it. I drove 4 1/2 hours with it running at ~220 and it didnt seem to cause any problems, but it has always held 200 with everything working. The only other things I can think of are the fan clutch and water pump. I replaced the pump around 2 years ago and it isnt leaking but I've never messed with the fan. Is 200000 hard miles a reasonable service life for a fan clutch? Is there a way to diagnose it for sure?

I would think that it's not the fan or clutch if it's holding that temp at highway speeds. There should be enough air moving through the rad. to keep it decent. I would think water pump. With that many miles, a fan clutch might well be in order though.

KrazyKarl02
11-26-2009, 09:40 AM
Temp gauge?

Sharpe
11-26-2009, 01:34 PM
Dont have any reason to suspect the gauge. I had to replace the sender awhile back when I did my headgaskets but the gauge seems to function fine. Depending on the price I'll probably try the fan clutch first, or maybe just say **** it and put a piece of tape over the temp gauge.

stx4wheeler
11-30-2009, 04:45 PM
Alright the hi steer arms I picked up don't look like they are gonna work. My driverside knuckle has the factory taping used for the stock dodge push/pull steering. The passengerside was probably done before Robbie had it in his jeep. It seems like the bolt pattern on the new hi-steer arms is the same as my knuckles.

The problem is when I try to line the holes in the arm to the holes in the knuckle the end of the arm where the tie-rod/draglink goes is touching the tire/rim. The crossover arm I currently have clears the tire by about 3/4 of an inch. Do different companies use radically different designs?

Right now i'm running 15x8 wheels with 3" of backspacing with 15.5 wide tires. I think the arms might be parts mike because the box for the studs says so. Any thoughts on this problem?

uglyota
11-30-2009, 04:51 PM
Get wider rims?

85cj7
11-30-2009, 04:52 PM
lets see some pics. I know what you are saying but don't understand why this should occur. Although high steer arm designs are different by manufacturer they definently shouldn't have this problem. Don't your high steer arms taper in towards the centerline of the vehicle. For instance when I went highsteer on the jeep I had to shorten the tie rod by about an inch because the aftermarket arms were narrower than the stock knuckle location.

stx4wheeler
11-30-2009, 05:38 PM
ill try and get a pic tonight, but it seems that these arms would actually make the tie rod/draglink longer instead of shorter.

Sharpe
11-30-2009, 06:04 PM
Use wheel spacers. Done.

J Cooper
11-30-2009, 07:42 PM
Use wheel spacers. Done.


< ------------------ :gigem:


just buy good ones.

stx4wheeler
11-30-2009, 08:12 PM
If I end up not getting them on I will not get wheel spacers I will just stay with my current crossover steering.

eight
11-30-2009, 08:25 PM
High steer is for suckers. I never needed it. Not like it gets you any better performance than crossover does.

JB
12-05-2009, 07:43 PM
Single ended ram mounting:

I would like to mount my PSC ram with the fixed end atop the axle tube and the ram end atop the tie rod. This would keep it protected from rocks. The problem is the angle that it puts it at in relation to the TR. I realize the closer to parallel the better, but what is an accepted angle? Mounting it on front of the axle tube, and the backside of the TR would make it almost parallel, but the scratches on my tie rod mean the ram will get taken out eventually.

The heims on each end of the ram need to be in the same plane right?

Does the ram end of the ram need to mount in the center of the tie rod?

The axle is a balljoint 60 with the tie rod at about the axle tube center line. No high steer, just crossover. The distance between the tie rod and axle is 8" and the ram, heim hole to heim hole, fully 'collapsed' is 17".

Advice?

breckboarder55
12-06-2009, 01:52 AM
Anybody have a ball joint press I can borrow, or want to help me out sometime?

DRAGOONRANCH
12-06-2009, 02:07 AM
Sharpe does, or at least I have heard that he is good at pressing them (balls and joints that is) to his forehead

colman
12-06-2009, 03:50 AM
you can get them from any parts store, you rent them and then you get all your money back when you return them, like any other rental tool they have

Sharpe
12-06-2009, 10:30 AM
I dont have a balljoint press.

DRAGOONRANCH
12-06-2009, 11:54 AM
Single ended ram mounting:

I would like to mount my PSC ram with the fixed end atop the axle tube and the ram end atop the tie rod. This would keep it protected from rocks. The problem is the angle that it puts it at in relation to the TR. I realize the closer to parallel the better, but what is an accepted angle? Mounting it on front of the axle tube, and the backside of the TR would make it almost parallel, but the scratches on my tie rod mean the ram will get taken out eventually.



The heims on each end of the ram need to be in the same plane right?

As long as they have enough room to move in articulation and not bind, they shouldn't need to be.

Does the ram end of the ram need to mount in the center of the tie rod?

No, the only thing you need to worry about is having enough travel both ways. Where you mount it on the TR will just depend on where you mount it on the axle.

The axle is a balljoint 60 with the tie rod at about the axle tube center line. No high steer, just crossover. The distance between the tie rod and axle is 8" and the ram, heim hole to heim hole, fully 'collapsed' is 17".

With the 8" of 'misalignment', you will be trying to roll your TRE's over pretty hard and will be losing a lot of force/leverage with being out of plane with the travel of the TR. Can you build a mount that will keep the ram on top, but must mount out further toward the front to line it up better?

Advice?

some thoughts.

JB
12-06-2009, 01:27 PM
Thanks Ed.

What about turning the ram around and mounting to GLO diff cover?

DRAGOONRANCH
12-06-2009, 01:44 PM
That would work good. They are pretty stout. It would be a pain if you need to take the cover off, but not too bad.

stx4wheeler
12-07-2009, 12:08 AM
Personal preference I don't like mounting it to the diff cover. On the 44 and the first ram in the 60 before I got good steering i mounted the ram btween the axle and tie rod. There was barely Enough room but it worked. When u got better steering I flipped the tr over the top of the knuckles and mounted the ram a little higher on the axle. There should be some pics in my members rigs or build up thread for big nasty. At full turn to both sides the distance between the ram mount on the tie rod and the radius arm cap was close. Hope this helps some.

KrazyKarl02
12-09-2009, 12:06 AM
I have a warn 12,000 lbs winch. I do not have a hook for said winch. Where can one purchase a 12,000 lbs rated hook? On ebay they are rated for like 21,000 max, with a work load of 5,000.

eight
12-09-2009, 12:23 AM
I would check Pierce Winch in Henrietta Texas.

DRAGOONRANCH
12-09-2009, 03:12 AM
http://www.customsplice.com/

KrazyKarl02
12-11-2009, 08:22 AM
Where are you guys buying foam to cover roll cage bars? I see some people use house pipe wrap, but that looks ethnic. Any ideas?

JB
12-11-2009, 08:53 AM
I can get you 2 1/8" pipe wrap. I have been using it for years. Birds will pick at it, but it still does its job. Klogger is a little ethnic. I can bring you a couple 6' pieces to Clayton if you want.

DRAGOONRANCH
12-11-2009, 09:29 AM
If you have room, I wouldn't mind a stick or two myself John. I will definitely trade for crown/beer. ;)

eight
12-11-2009, 09:52 AM
I have seen pipe insulation with black PVC wrap on it. One of my customers uses it to insulate tubing. The wrap is wider than the insulation and self adhesive, so it overlaps the gap and closes/hides the seam. I just checked grainger and mcmaster and did not find it. Looks like something 3M would make.

agjohn02
12-11-2009, 10:57 AM
I guess you are more concerned about it not hurting when you bump your head rather than not crushing your skull in a rollover?

uglyota
12-11-2009, 11:30 AM
http://colemanracing.com/store/shopdisplayproducts.asp?Search=Yes&sppp=10

JB
12-11-2009, 11:50 AM
Better than nothing at all.

agjohn02
12-11-2009, 12:12 PM
Pipe insulation is equivalent to nothing at all.

BMFScout
12-11-2009, 12:28 PM
I plan to maybe flop my rig at most, going 3mph like most people on here. I plan to bump my head getting in and out of the truck, that is where I need a little protection. I don't think having pipe insulation or closed cell foam or whatever is going to make a difference whether I live or die from cranial woundage.

Good to have you back John, now we can argue on the internet again!

JB
12-11-2009, 12:52 PM
If I am belted in, I hope to not be hitting my head on the cage anyway. I'm sure it could happen, but this stuff is free, and when I hit my head on it getting in or crawling to the backseat, it doesn't hurt.

bburris
12-11-2009, 01:09 PM
Where are you guys buying foam to cover roll cage bars? I see some people use house pipe wrap, but that looks ethnic. Any ideas?

I got some stuff from Summit for the two trips my Jeep went on with a full cage.

Maybe this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KIR-99007/

robertf03
12-11-2009, 01:31 PM
just make the cage out of foam. toys r us has pool noodles

DRAGOONRANCH
12-11-2009, 01:31 PM
If I am belted in, I hope to not be hitting my head on the cage anyway. I'm sure it could happen, but this stuff is free, and when I hit my head on it getting in or crawling to the backseat, it doesn't hurt.

I am pretty sure I have come close to denting my cage a few times while crawling in the truck. :gigem:

CheapJeep
12-11-2009, 06:43 PM
I recently ordered cage padding from Jegs and have some lengths leftover if you need any Karl.

Seth
12-12-2009, 10:54 AM
I was surprised when I saw the real stuff, it was much more dense than I thought. I guess John it talking about if your head hits the cage violently the closed cell stuff will save your noggin. At first I was thinking if the cage crushed in, in which case you are fooked either way. I still think that pipe insulation will help a tiny bit.

Eckert
12-13-2009, 09:57 PM
i need some shocks.

when searching through monroe's catalog. cheapest ones i found that will work are $45. any other suggestions.

3/8 stud on each end, and ~25" extended.

bcolman
12-13-2009, 10:30 PM
find cheaper ones and modify mounts accordingly

Eckert
12-13-2009, 10:59 PM
find cheaper ones and modify mounts accordingly

i cherish your advice

:blackflipoff2:

Seth
12-14-2009, 07:49 AM
that seems a little high. I bought my cage shocks for 120 for all 4 shipped. I would guess you could find a similar deal. Wasnt there a company making cheap shocks for applications just like this?

Eckert
12-14-2009, 08:13 AM
i can find cheap shock for about $20. but they all have eyelets. appearently studs on each end got phased out in '79. might end up just running the stock ones, flex is overrated anyways.

TMatheaus
12-14-2009, 10:30 AM
shocks are overrated

Eckert
12-14-2009, 10:38 AM
shocks are overrated

yes they are, pogo sticks dont do well on the trails.

Seth
12-14-2009, 05:24 PM
ah, studs at both ends. mine is only one end.

jerryg79
12-14-2009, 06:07 PM
ah, studs at both ends.

sounds like a crazy saturday night!

Seth
12-14-2009, 11:26 PM
I knew that was coming.

BMFScout
12-15-2009, 12:26 AM
find cheaper ones and modify mounts accordingly

that really is pretty good advice.

colman
12-15-2009, 01:16 AM
i have some spare bushing style mounts that you can weld on the axle and maybe some for the frame if you wana stop by

breckboarder55
12-15-2009, 12:09 PM
1. Do we/anyone have any part store hookups anymore?

2. Is it worth it to spend the extra 20 bucks a piece on ball joints to upgrade from the house brand at O'reillys?

3. Edit, what about the (extra 70 dollar a piece) adjustable ball joints?

Thanks

JB
12-15-2009, 12:22 PM
Is the $20 upgrade for MOOG balljoints? I have had good luck thus far with them in the bronco.

breckboarder55
12-15-2009, 12:57 PM
Is the $20 upgrade for MOOG balljoints? I have had good luck thus far with them in the bronco.

I'm not sure, I was just told they were the upgrade from the "house brand" and appear to have much higher quality.

KrazyKarl02
12-15-2009, 01:22 PM
1. Do we/anyone have any part store hookups anymore?

2. Is it worth it to spend the extra 20 bucks a piece on ball joints to upgrade from the house brand at O'reillys?

3. Edit, what about the (extra 70 dollar a piece) adjustable ball joints?

Thanks

1 - I don't think TAMOR has one anymore, say you are with the sports car club, I think they have one.

2 - Ball joints, yes, get the moog. If you get "auto drive" or whatever the house brand is, you "auto-drive" right back to the parts store for the better ones.

Sharpe
12-15-2009, 03:07 PM
TAMOR does still have an account with O'Reillys, but I dont know how much it saves. For Napa, use the sports car club.

uglyota
12-15-2009, 06:27 PM
you whores I asked about Moog balljoints a couple of weeks ago and nobody replied

colman
12-15-2009, 07:09 PM
go moog all the way, if your going to do your ball jounts in town i will be working in the morning before i leave town. call me and we will get your **** done

AggieTJ2007
12-15-2009, 07:18 PM
I'm not sure, I was just told they were the upgrade from the "house brand" and appear to have much higher quality.

do you need to replace yours our just keep some as spares incase you break a shaft and it takes out the balljoint?

tommy53002
12-15-2009, 11:04 PM
I work at the napa in bryan but the discount isnt that great.... also we dont stock moog.

colman
12-16-2009, 03:14 AM
i used to work at oreilly in bryan and their employee discount is great on hard parts, just saying

now time for jb to give his two cents about advance

bburris
12-16-2009, 10:36 AM
If it hasn't changed, the Car Quest house brand used to be made by Moog. I don't know why more people don't check for oddball crap there, the ones in Corpus stocked all kinds of parts for weird vehicles.

Seth
12-16-2009, 07:26 PM
how is ccok's napa? I have only messed with the CS one. heard mixed reviews on cooks.

85cj7
12-16-2009, 07:44 PM
My opinion is that that place suck donkey dick I've gone there a few times for some odd stuff, I think one time was for a rear axle bearing. The place is filled with ****, so much you can barely walk around and the one fat ass that I remember behind the counter took out a caliper and started measuring the bearing to compare it to the 20 odd ones they are sitting in a pile on a table. When I asked why don't they just look up the part number which was clearly visible on the bearing the guy told me he couldn't find 'the book' and sent me to another store.

JB
12-16-2009, 08:48 PM
i used to work at oreilly in bryan and their employee discount is great on hard parts, just saying

now time for jb to give his two cents about advance

The advance TAMOR account was under my phone number and was a Comm Level 4 account. Then someone found out and the discount decreased significantly. Now, the counter help is worse than at an AutoZone. Back when Jerry, jeremiah, Kyle, Aaron, and for a short time, cook, worked there, it was much better.

I go to NAPA CS now. Although there floor selection is pretty sparse and their computer system/credit card runners, blows. They seem to mainly use the old books still.

Seth
12-16-2009, 09:04 PM
Yeah, I like them as well. Multiple guys that I see every time I go in there, although sometimes you have to pry a little bit to get them to check availability on some things. I like that they have cheap hardware also.

85cj7
12-20-2009, 09:30 PM
I got some really ****ty gas up in Clayton, started pinging on the tow back to Dallas. "Service Engine Soon" light is remaining on. According to owners manual this is because of misfires due to poor gas. Burned half the tank -filled it, burned another half-filled it. Scanned OBDII came up with misfires in 4,5,7. Now it isn't pinging but the engine is noticeably shaking (enough to shake the whole truck) when at idle and at low pressure on the pedal it rocks. If I give it more gas it smoothes out and the rocking stops. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

PS. Replaced spark plugs 3,000 miles ago. When this started the truck was fine untill hills, then the added rpms started to make a ping, I could actually feel it burning pockets of bad gas and then run correctly for a while. Now the shaking. What’s up?

eight
12-21-2009, 10:32 AM
Pinging can do alot of damage quickly. Pull the plugs, hopefully they're screwed up as that's the cheapest thing. Other things include broken rings or pistons.

colman
12-21-2009, 11:00 AM
pull the plugs and inspect them, bad gas may have messed with them

uglyota
12-21-2009, 12:58 PM
Toyota kids: Inner axle upgrade options for 27 spline birfs? I thought poly made some but I can't find them on the website. Is Longfield the only one any more?

Eckert
12-21-2009, 03:17 PM
Toyota kids: Inner axle upgrade options for 27 spline birfs? I thought poly made some but I can't find them on the website. Is Longfield the only one any more?

maybe TG. i know they came out with 'dirty thirties' and have chromoly 27 spline outers. but dont know on inners.

pretty sure poly only made rear shafts.

stx4wheeler
12-21-2009, 03:37 PM
Ryan drain the tank and replace plugs.

FJAggie07
12-21-2009, 03:51 PM
maybe TG. i know they came out with 'dirty thirties' and have chromoly 27 spline outers. but dont know on inners.

pretty sure poly only made rear shafts.

I looked around and it really looks like other than longfield no one sells just upgraded inners, and they are like 100 a piece which seems to be a good deal if you never have to replace it again.

uglyota
12-21-2009, 04:17 PM
Cool thanks guys. Yeah $100 isn't bad and Bobby's a good guy

85cj7
12-21-2009, 04:30 PM
long story short.

pulled plugs they are fine

****ty gas=misfires=partly ****ed headgasket=water in cylinders=burned o2 plugs=crappy idle

going to drain and try block sealant then new o2 and new fuel filter. see how it runs. Make sense to anyone else?

Sharpe
12-21-2009, 04:43 PM
I wouldnt **** around with block sealant on a DD...

Seth
12-21-2009, 07:04 PM
That's some really ****ty gas, or really hard driving to blow a head gasket. Where did you buy said gas?

85cj7
12-21-2009, 07:13 PM
I bought the gas at the ****ty gas station in clayton. not the big one near where david o and rodney rented the house, the one between the pizza video store and the AA.
I think pushing the truck to pull the jeep for two hours of pinging did it in.

colman
12-21-2009, 08:22 PM
blue devil is like 50 bones and great at sealing blocks, alot of shops use it. not cheap but good stuff

stx4wheeler
12-22-2009, 01:21 AM
Are all Saginaw pumps created equal?

I have two pumps in my shop and neither one is a simple bolt in to replace the one from the waggie. Both require me to swap out the studs on the back of the pump for the studs from the waggie pump. I just want to know if different models were either better or worse.

Also who makes good wheel spacers that don't make tires fall off? I need a set of front 5 on 5.5's if I decide to put high steer on the waggie.

robertf03
12-22-2009, 02:02 AM
isn't your wagoneer 6 lug?

stx4wheeler
12-22-2009, 08:23 AM
Nope waggie axles went in the trash when I first started building it.

eight
12-22-2009, 09:09 AM
They are not all created equal. Some have higher flow rates than others. I really don't think the flow rate matters though, as you should always have enough. Maybe if you have hydro assist or something.

It's hard to swap the studs?

Sharpe
12-22-2009, 01:22 PM
I bought the gas at the ****ty gas station in clayton. not the big one near where david o and rodney rented the house, the one between the pizza video store and the AA.
I think pushing the truck to pull the jeep for two hours of pinging did it in.

Are you sure its the gas? I ask because probably half the people the TAMOR bought gas there and you are the only one that had any issues (that I know of).

Seth
12-22-2009, 01:40 PM
Blankenship - if it has the individual coils on the plug I would check those. Odd that three would go out at once, though. they will throw a misfire code p0303, etc.

85cj7
12-22-2009, 03:59 PM
It was acting like it was buring something it didn't like. You could feel it slow and chug then hear it ping for a min or two under heavy acceleration. Then it would be fine and have plenty of balls, and the light would turn off. This repeated for about an hour. I hope a meth head didn't add anything 'special' to my tank. I parked off a ways from others at sardis and right next to that major hwy. No lock on tank door or cap. Now it runs ****ty under idle but doesn't ping. Aboutto fire it up after flushing, block sealant, new o2, new fuel filter. Will let you know how it does.

85cj7
12-22-2009, 04:00 PM
Blankenship - if it has the individual coils on the plug I would check those. Odd that three would go out at once, though. they will throw a misfire code p0303, etc.

yes it has individual coils on each plug. I pulled 5 and 7 which were misfiring and the plug, coil, and boot all looked fine.

robertf03
12-22-2009, 04:50 PM
move the coils around and see if the error codes follow. I've heard that ford coil packs suck, maybe the coil on plug sucks too.

colman
12-22-2009, 05:43 PM
i have a pump that still has the v8 waggy bracket on it if you can figure out how to get it. i am coming to the west side of houston in a day or two.

85cj7
12-22-2009, 06:33 PM
Blog :

Ok. I had previously said that I had pulled 5 and 7 but didn't pull 4 because its a bitch to get to. Well I am an idiot, and am the first to admit it. Pulled it and found the picture below. Am also going to pull the remaining 5 plugs that didn't trip codes, just to be sure.

I still think it was **** in the gas so fuel filter was still necessary. I still think it ****ed with my headgasket because coolant smelled burnt and was dripping out the exhaust. So block sealant, o2 sensors and coolant flush/refill was still necessary.

What damage will that blown plug cause? What about the remaining bits of metal from it in the cylinder? Need some advice on preventative action.

Seth
12-22-2009, 06:47 PM
wow. not sure what to tell you other than, diagnose first, then replace parts.

eight
12-22-2009, 08:40 PM
That's one of the things pinging does. Replace all the plugs. And next time it starts pinging, let off.

JB
12-22-2009, 09:17 PM
I would also drain the oil/block seal and replace with just fresh oil. Maybe some lucas fuel treatment in the tank too.

agjohn02
12-22-2009, 09:40 PM
reminds me of the baja jeep. timing was too advanced and it roasted plugs. i dont think camo knows what a ping sounds like.

tigweld
12-23-2009, 08:42 AM
reminds me of the baja jeep. timing was too advanced and it roasted plugs. i dont think camo knows what a ping sounds like.

camo doesn't know his ass from a hole in the ground. he is the definition of tool, so that doesnt suprise me.

agjohn02
12-23-2009, 09:06 AM
camo doesn't know his ass from a hole in the ground. he is the definition of tool, so that doesnt suprise me.

have you met him in person?

bburris
12-23-2009, 09:22 AM
A spark plug fell apart in my Jeep like that, it ended up lodging itself between a cylinder and the block and did a pretty good number on everything.

uglyota
12-23-2009, 09:46 AM
I would also drain the oil/block seal and replace with just fresh oil. Maybe some lucas fuel treatment in the tank too.

this isn't gonna get spark plug parts out of the cylinder. Might be worth getting a scope down in there and make sure


camo doesn't know his ass from a hole in the ground. he is the definition of tool, so that doesnt suprise me.
uncontrollable urge to make a comment about the flavor of camo's cawk

eight
12-23-2009, 10:06 AM
Usually parts that go in the cylinder bounce around a little and then go out the exhaust, or embed in a piston. Either one isn't much to worry about, not like you're gonna rip it apart to get it out.

tigweld
12-23-2009, 11:38 AM
have you met him in person?


nope don't need to, I got a pretty good radar for tools.

agjohn02
12-23-2009, 11:59 AM
I'm not going to argue that your radar is far off, but I will add that all of those guys were cooler than I expected.

tigweld
12-23-2009, 12:10 PM
I can believe that, it's just the way he talkes(replies) to people, no respect at all. not someone I would ever do any kind of business with, no red star for me

85cj7
12-23-2009, 08:52 PM
replaced the #4 plug and no change in behavior. Still idles crappy and vibrates until 2k before smoothing out. Also can hear pinging/ticking occuring on the passanger side, so cylinders 1-4. Could a spark plug blowing up like that damage the coil? I don't want to drop $50 on a coil to find out it isn't the culprit. Any suggestions? A code reader would definently come in handy right about now.

bcolman
12-23-2009, 08:59 PM
you can always return the coil if it isnt the reason for the sound

eight
12-23-2009, 09:04 PM
Why are you set on not replacing all the plugs? You either killed plugs or the motor. The only ignition parts pinging could hurt are the plugs, as they are the only ones that see combustion pressure. You really probably screwed the pistons or head gaskets. Imagine combustion violent enough to do what it did to that one plug. The others were subjected to that same violence.

85cj7
12-23-2009, 09:20 PM
the other plug weren't misfiring and had no visible damage. I can replace them but why would they be the problem if they weren't misfiring? I'm not against it, just didn't think it was necessary. Should I replace them all?

stx4wheeler
12-23-2009, 10:01 PM
Spark plugs prolly cost 20 bucks. I would do that then you can rule that out as a problem. Also you could swap coil packs from the good side if you don't wanna buy a new one.

So what companies make decent( tire not falling off)wheel spacers.

Sharpe
12-24-2009, 12:28 AM
So what companies make decent( tire not falling off)wheel spacers.

Coop can tell you which ones not to buy :flipoff2:

JB
12-26-2009, 04:08 PM
Damaged Bronco trans pan on right is a 'deep' pan b/c of the indent in the middle which allows for the 'snout' on the filter. I ordered a cheapo Summit chrome pan that does not have this and I assume is for a Mustang. So I bought a filter for a 5.0 Stang.

DOes it matter? What would be the purpose for having 'deep' pan. WOuld it have anything to do with starving the pump of ATF at angles?

Sharpe
12-26-2009, 08:26 PM
Do scrap yards take seats out of vehicles? They have alot of metal in them but alot of foam and fabric too. I know the easy solution is to burn the foam off the frames but I am too lazy to even do that.

uglyota
12-28-2009, 10:48 AM
replaced the #4 plug and no change in behavior. Still idles crappy and vibrates until 2k before smoothing out. Also can hear pinging/ticking occuring on the passanger side, so cylinders 1-4. Could a spark plug blowing up like that damage the coil? I don't want to drop $50 on a coil to find out it isn't the culprit. Any suggestions? A code reader would definently come in handy right about now.

Does that truck have an icm of some sort? That's the first thing that comes to mind for me when I hear about misfires at low rpms that smooth out at higher ones. Coil is also a good bet...they can go out at the lower RPMs (lower voltages) but still work fine at higher RPMs...I think

85cj7
12-28-2009, 11:14 AM
Does that truck have an icm of some sort? That's the first thing that comes to mind for me when I hear about misfires at low rpms that smooth out at higher ones. Coil is also a good bet...they can go out at the lower RPMs (lower voltages) but still work fine at higher RPMs...I think

humor me. . . icm (ignition control module)? I don't know if it does or not. Gonna try to convince flem to come take a look. I think I may replace the #4 coil to rule that out before tearing into the top end to check piston and headgasket.

uglyota
12-28-2009, 11:38 AM
yeah Ignition Control Module. I dunno anything about that coil per cylinder stuff though...

breckboarder55
12-28-2009, 12:22 PM
So after talking with several people I decided to stay with 33"s until the Jeep is no longer my daily driver.

That said it is time to buy some new tires.

I have ran Cooper STT's for the past two years and they are near 50k now. They have worn unevenly, but have performed well in every environment I've been to. (although the only "off-road tire I have to compare is the BFG AT's)

That said I am considering switching to the BFG KM2s or the Goodyear MT/Rs.
They are all close enough in price for that to not be an issue.

Thoughts, experiences, and opinions are greatly appreciated.

uglyota
12-28-2009, 01:19 PM
Plenty of people DD 35s (edit: though not with a 4cyl)
You should buy Kreighton's Krawlers
I love my Trxus MTs

FJAggie07
12-28-2009, 01:28 PM
So after talking with several people I decided to stay with 33"s until the Jeep is no longer my daily driver.

That said it is time to buy some new tires.

I have ran Cooper STT's for the past two years and they are near 50k now. They have worn unevenly, but have performed well in every environment I've been to. (although the only "off-road tire I have to compare is the BFG AT's)

That said I am considering switching to the BFG KM2s or the Goodyear MT/Rs.
They are all close enough in price for that to not be an issue.

Thoughts, experiences, and opinions are greatly appreciated.

The KM2's are nice, pops has em and likes em, smooth ride, not loud. I have the MT/R's with Kevlar on the Power Wagon and they are nice also. Don't think you can go bad either way.

Eckert
12-28-2009, 03:34 PM
Dont you like to pond hop as well? i dont have any experience with either, but i heard the MT/R's dont do so swift in the mud. ask karl.

Eckert
12-28-2009, 03:54 PM
GM guru's:

pros and cons of a LT1?

a guy wants to trade me a 1995 LT1 to what he claims came out of a police caprice. 70k miles. complete engine with comp and wiring harness. what is worth? worth holding onto? im leary of a police engine that has 70k because i know the hours are 10 fold that.

KrazyKarl02
12-28-2009, 04:27 PM
GM guru's:

pros and cons of a LT1?

a guy wants to trade me a 1995 LT1 to what he claims came out of a police caprice. 70k miles. complete engine with comp and wiring harness. what is worth? worth holding onto? im leary of a police engine that has 70k because i know the hours are 10 fold that.

PROS : They are ****in' sweet

Seriously though, the LT1 in Caprice's and cop cars have iron heads. The ones in the camaros are aluminum, so the camaro ones are slightly more desirable. LT1's make good power and are a good engine. In recent years the 5.3's have become more popular.

Price, I would say for a complete (harness, intake, etc..) "iron head" LT1 market price would be about $800. $500 would start to be the line for a "good deal".

For reference I picked up my "aluminum head" complete with tranny for $600 5 years ago. It has been sitting next to my chevelle making "vroom" noises ever since...

Eckert
12-28-2009, 05:38 PM
PROS : They are ****in' sweet

Seriously though, the LT1 in Caprice's and cop cars have iron heads. The ones in the camaros are aluminum, so the camaro ones are slightly more desirable. LT1's make good power and are a good engine. In recent years the 5.3's have become more popular.

Price, I would say for a complete (harness, intake, etc..) "iron head" LT1 market price would be about $800. $500 would start to be the line for a "good deal".

For reference I picked up my "aluminum head" complete with tranny for $600 5 years ago. It has been sitting next to my chevelle making "vroom" noises ever since...

my parts are worth about ~$500-550 that he wants to trade for. i have a 700r4 and np208 at my expense. damn it, i dont want to build another truck!

Reckless
12-28-2009, 07:49 PM
Does that truck have an icm of some sort? That's the first thing that comes to mind for me when I hear about misfires at low rpms that smooth out at higher ones. Coil is also a good bet...they can go out at the lower RPMs (lower voltages) but still work fine at higher RPMs...I think

swap the coils around first, if it follows it to the cyl that you swapped it to, then its the coil

Jackasic
12-28-2009, 09:22 PM
I loved my 33" MT/R's

AggieTJ2007
12-28-2009, 10:28 PM
Plenty of people DD 35s (edit: though not with a 4cyl)
You should buy Kreighton's Krawlers

I love my Trxus MTs

Yeah 33s are good for a DD anything bigger and you put a lot more stress on other parts and you won't be as reliable, I would go with some km2s

4-Banger
12-28-2009, 11:09 PM
So after talking with several people I decided to stay with 33"s until the Jeep is no longer my daily driver.

That said it is time to buy some new tires.

I have ran Cooper STT's for the past two years and they are near 50k now. They have worn unevenly, but have performed well in every environment I've been to. (although the only "off-road tire I have to compare is the BFG AT's)

That said I am considering switching to the BFG KM2s or the Goodyear MT/Rs.
They are all close enough in price for that to not be an issue.

Thoughts, experiences, and opinions are greatly appreciated.

Yokohama Geolander A/T

I've been running the same 31" set for almost three years now and I love them. Great off-road, handle themselves well on the street, and are wearing like iron, and were pretty cheap, to boot. I highly recommend them. 33" is the biggest they go.

FJAggie07
12-28-2009, 11:53 PM
If you want cheap I would try out those re tread mtr looking tires. They have gotten great reviews on all the boards and I have seen them wheel and they hook up well.

Edit: ithink the name of the company is tread wright.

JB
12-29-2009, 08:43 AM
So after talking with several people I decided to stay with 33"s until the Jeep is no longer my daily driver.

That said it is time to buy some new tires.

I have ran Cooper STT's for the past two years and they are near 50k now. They have worn unevenly, but have performed well in every environment I've been to. (although the only "off-road tire I have to compare is the BFG AT's)

That said I am considering switching to the BFG KM2s or the Goodyear MT/Rs.
They are all close enough in price for that to not be an issue.

Thoughts, experiences, and opinions are greatly appreciated.

I am a big fan of KM/2s. I get 50k-60k out of them on my truck. Quiet enough for a mud tire, and do great in every terrain I have put them in .

stx4wheeler
12-29-2009, 08:57 AM
I don't have any long term experience with the mtr's but I think they are to soft to get 50-60k out of like the bfg. Km/2's all the way.

J Cooper
12-29-2009, 09:36 AM
get 50-60k out of like the bfg.

charlie truck, my truck, dad and brother all have BFGs. pricey but they do seem to last forever.

dannys mom has some ~33 BFG ATs on her tahoe with something like 80k + on them and they still look alright.

i know my dads have made it on to a second vehicle already.


EDIT:
and if you look at my avatar you can see that they will hold up to coming off your axle and hitting a house :flipoff2:

Sharpe
12-29-2009, 10:22 AM
charlie truck

High mileage vehicle right there!!!

J Cooper
12-29-2009, 10:31 AM
High mileage vehicle right there!!!

i bought them from 8runner!?

how do they hold up to dry rot? :flipoff2:


speaking of i am free the next couple of weekends, i SERIOUSLY need to make a trip up.

breckboarder55
12-29-2009, 11:12 AM
Well, I'm not really interested in any A/T's, and tires are something I don't mind spending more money on.

Hot Pocket
12-29-2009, 09:06 PM
FWIW
KM/2's look pretty tits on any vehicle

Sharpe
12-29-2009, 09:14 PM
FWIW
KM/2's look pretty tits on any vehicle

Even a Jetta?

robertf03
12-30-2009, 10:58 AM
are fj80 birfields as ****ty as mini truck birfs? I could save money on the rovota conversion by using stock 80 birfs instead of longfields, but if its a downgrade fook that.

Hot Pocket
12-30-2009, 11:08 AM
Even a Jetta?

Especially a Jetta :flipoff2:

uglyota
12-30-2009, 11:09 AM
you gaht lockah? stock mini birfs are pretty much indestructible on 33s with open diff. FJ80s are a bit stronger. You could also get the stockers heat/cryo treated and they will be pretty dam strong

FJAggie07
12-30-2009, 11:16 AM
are fj80 birfields as ****ty as mini truck birfs? I could save money on the rovota conversion by using stock 80 birfs instead of longfields, but if its a downgrade fook that.

How are mini-truck birfs ****ty?

Yes the 80's birfs are stronger.

robertf03
12-30-2009, 11:21 AM
you gaht lockah? stock mini birfs are pretty much indestructible on 33s with open diff. FJ80s are a bit stronger. You could also get the stockers heat/cryo treated and they will be pretty dam strong

no lockah. maybe sour grapes, but I don't want that tumor hanging off the side of the diff anyway. Open for now, ARB later. cryo might work, who does that?

robertf03
12-30-2009, 11:24 AM
How are mini-truck birfs ****ty?

Yes the 80's birfs are stronger.

never heard anything good about them, seen lots of people changing them on the trail.

uglyota
12-30-2009, 11:25 AM
Bobby Long might still treat stockers, if not, see if you can get in touch with Dan Bell...I may be able to scrape up his contact info. That's what I'm running in at least one side of the uglytruck. Marlin used to sell his birfs but has his own now I think.

Eckert
12-30-2009, 04:23 PM
the shafts are the same size but the bell is considerably larger. pretty sure you would be ok. change out the drive flanges for mini-truck lockouts.

Eckert
12-30-2009, 05:06 PM
has anyone heard anything on Spartan Lockers?

vendor on pirate quoted me $285 shipped for one for my D60 front in the ford.

everything ive read seems to be good.

robertf03
12-30-2009, 05:56 PM
the shafts are the same size but the bell is considerably larger. pretty sure you would be ok. change out the drive flanges for mini-truck lockouts.

why would I want to do that on an all wheel drive trck? is it going to break on the street?

Eckert
12-30-2009, 09:26 PM
why would I want to do that on an all wheel drive trck? is it going to break on the street?

never mind then. didnt know the rovers were full time AWD.

Sharpe
01-02-2010, 02:54 PM
Is there a vendor online that sells cheap reman or new fuel injectors? A set of 8 from the parts store is ~$300.

stx4wheeler
01-02-2010, 05:01 PM
Anyone ever redrill a leaf spring to move the center pin? I am thinking about doing this on one or two leafs to make them match up with my waggie leafs.

colman
01-02-2010, 05:20 PM
are the injectors for the 98 or something else

get a good drill bit and there would probably be a weak spot where the old hole is

tommy53002
01-02-2010, 05:23 PM
Is there a vendor online that sells cheap reman or new fuel injectors? A set of 8 from the parts store is ~$300.

http://www.witchhunter.com/
Not exactly what you asked for but maybe they are another option.

Sharpe
01-03-2010, 12:56 AM
are the injectors for the 98 or something else

get a good drill bit and there would probably be a weak spot where the old hole is

Yes for my crewcab. They are 18 lb/hr at 3 bar IIRC. Some people have swapped in stock LS1 injectors with a computer reflash for power and mileage gains but I dont understand the whole system well enough to do that with my DD yet. There is an 80+ page thread on GMfullsize specifically about the 7.4L Vortec (L29) but I have only read about 1/3 of the way through it. I am seriously considering doing an exhaust and injector upgrayedd, EGR & cat deletion with a computer reflash but am still hung up on the "not modifying the DD" idea. It deffinately needs new injectors and after burning ~60 gallons of old gas from parts trucks over the last two weeks it will probably need them even more :flipoff2:

robertf03
01-03-2010, 01:24 AM
Anyone ever redrill a leaf spring to move the center pin? I am thinking about doing this on one or two leafs to make them match up with my waggie leafs.

good luck, I had to open up the center pin for something once. Can't remember what it was or why it had to be done, but I got maybe 1/8" and gave up.

Seth
01-03-2010, 08:34 AM
go for it sharpe. no warranty, and its not going to be any worse than it is currently.

Eckert
01-03-2010, 02:23 PM
go for it sharpe. no warranty, and its not going to be any worse than it is currently.

I agree, what your doing is bolt on crap. go for it.

stx4wheeler
01-04-2010, 09:46 AM
Are chevy 10 bolt knuckles and Dana 44 knuckles out of like an fsj or dodge the same?

Also do Dana 44 locking hubs work in a 10 bolt?

Are ten bolts about the same stength as a 44 ie shafts ring gear etc?

85cj7
01-04-2010, 11:37 AM
knuckles are the same, i think lockouts should work.
from completeoffroad.com
dana 44-Ring Gear Diameter: 8.5
Ring Gear Bolts: (10) 3/8 x 24 RH
Cover Bolts: 10
Carrier Breaks: 3.73 / 3.92
Spline Count: 1.375 / 26
Float: SF or Front

10 bolt-
Ring Gear Diameter: 8.5"
Ring Gear Bolts: (10) 7/16 x 20 LH
Cover Bolts: 10
Carrier Breaks: 2.56 / 2.73
Spline Count: 1.625 / 30
Float: SF

agjohn02
01-04-2010, 11:41 AM
good luck, I had to open up the center pin for something once. Can't remember what it was or why it had to be done, but I got maybe 1/8" and gave up.

if you have a drill press and some oil it should be no problem. there is a significant difference in opening up a hole and drilling a new one. i had a machine shop drill holes for teflon sliders on my scout springs. i eventually ended up buying a drill press for the same amount they charged me to drill 16 holes.

85cj7
01-04-2010, 05:19 PM
humor me. . . icm (ignition control module)? I don't know if it does or not. Gonna try to convince flem to come take a look. I think I may replace the #4 coil to rule that out before tearing into the top end to check piston and headgasket.

current state of destruction

KrazyKarl02
01-04-2010, 05:51 PM
:eek:

FJAggie07
01-04-2010, 06:08 PM
:eek:

x2.

85cj7
01-04-2010, 06:17 PM
i'm not happy about it either.

Seth
01-04-2010, 06:54 PM
find anything out?

85cj7
01-04-2010, 07:01 PM
everything looked functuning to my eyes. Dropped the heads off to get cleaned up/checked/machined today. Flems going to come take a look tomorrow.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-04-2010, 09:24 PM
That looks like way too much fun for me. :gigem:

Eckert
01-04-2010, 10:10 PM
im not understanding any of it.

colman
01-05-2010, 01:30 AM
thats cause your retarded travis, o wait i mean tyler

stx4wheeler
01-05-2010, 01:57 AM
Are chevy and dodge Dana 60 knuckles the same? Even when itcomes to dually knuckles? Are the spindles and knuckles the same for single vs dually fronts.

Sharpe
01-05-2010, 02:03 AM
On a chevy the knuckles and spindles are the same between SRW and DRW. Dunno about dodge interchangability though.

uglyota
01-06-2010, 11:48 AM
everything looked functuning to my eyes. Dropped the heads off to get cleaned up/checked/machined today. Flems going to come take a look tomorrow.

I don't get it. Why did you pull your motor completely apart?

FJAggie07
01-06-2010, 11:53 AM
I don't get it. Why did you pull your motor completely apart?

Does this decision involve Clarke and alcohol?

Seth
01-06-2010, 12:33 PM
I don't get it. Why did you pull your motor completely apart?

x2. I am not in the loop, but it seems like you tore it aparrt before a complete diagnosis.

uglyota
01-06-2010, 12:41 PM
BDR says you're a dumbass. Should I call him a lurker for you? :D

85cj7
01-06-2010, 12:42 PM
Did a compression check, no psi in cylinder 4 at all (0 psi!). So suspected cracked head, or busted piston. Machine shop just called to say the heads are done and just fine. The block/pistons/cylinder walls are just fine. Passanger side (1-4cyl) head gasket was visibly blown. Time to put **** back together and see if it runs.

uglyota
01-06-2010, 12:44 PM
Did a compression check, no psi in cylinder 4 at all (0 psi!). So suspected cracked head, or busted piston. Machine shop just called to say the heads are done and just fine. The block/pistons/cylinder walls are just fine. Passanger side (1-4cyl) head gasket was visibly blown. Time to put **** back together and see if it runs.

0 psi is usually a stuck valve. Was the head with the blown HG warped?

85cj7
01-06-2010, 12:55 PM
shop took them completely apart, pressure tested, re-assembled adjusting valves, and machined. Said on the phone that they were just fine. Gonna go pick them up soon.

uglyota
01-06-2010, 01:00 PM
so the only thing wrong with it was the blown HG, it was blown so bad that you couldn't build any pressure in that cylinder, and you still don't have a cause for why it blew in the first place?

85cj7
01-06-2010, 01:02 PM
correct, still no major cause or reason except forcing it to tow for 200 miles while pinging.

Seth
01-06-2010, 01:23 PM
was it blown to a water jacket or something, not an adjacent cylinder?

robertf03
01-06-2010, 01:30 PM
yeah it was blown into a waterjacket.

cylinder wall looks fine so I don't think there was any ring damage.

My theory is the HG blew at speed while towing, o2 read rich, ecm leaned it out while towing and it started pinging and eating spark plugs.

85cj7
01-06-2010, 02:59 PM
picked up the heads and got the necessary parts. Valve was also bent above the #4 cylinder. Fixed it and ready to re-install.

Shaggy
01-06-2010, 05:35 PM
what kind of truck is this?

85cj7
01-06-2010, 05:51 PM
2001 f-150. 5.4L

Eckert
01-06-2010, 09:09 PM
My theory is the HG blew at speed while towing, o2 read rich, ecm leaned it out while towing and it started pinging and eating spark plugs.

fuel injection sucks:flipoff2:

Eckert
01-07-2010, 03:41 PM
a scout 80 drive train is pretty much worthless from what ive been reading, no?

Seth
01-07-2010, 05:46 PM
depends, whatya got?

agjohn02
01-07-2010, 05:49 PM
depends, whatya got?

exactly, some scout 80 drivetrains make better boat anchors than others.

Fredo
01-07-2010, 10:38 PM
a scout 80 drive train is pretty much worthless from what ive been reading, no?

I sold the running 152 4cyl out of my 64 Scout 80 for $300. There are people that might want it. Go here and list it before you scrap it.

www.binderplanet.com

Eckert
01-08-2010, 12:24 AM
I sold the running 152 4cyl out of my 64 Scout 80 for $300. There are people that might want it. Go here and list it before you scrap it.

www.binderplanet.com

$300, wow.

i was thinking about buying a mostly complete 80 for the body, i guess the purist still like them

Seth
01-08-2010, 08:17 AM
where at? i check cl and ebay pretty regularly.

agjohn02
01-08-2010, 10:03 AM
I sold the running 152 4cyl out of my 64 Scout 80 for $300. There are people that might want it. Go here and list it before you scrap it.

www.binderplanet.com

is binderplanet the old binder bulletin? i had a guy e-mail me asking me tech questions about my scout the other day saying he saw it on binderplanet. i've never heard of it...

FJAggie07
01-08-2010, 10:15 AM
is binderplanet the old binder bulletin? i had a guy e-mail me asking me tech questions about my scout the other day saying he saw it on binderplanet. i've never heard of it...

http://knowyourmeme.com/i/3375/original/cool-story-bro.jpg?1244744914

Fredo
01-08-2010, 10:48 AM
Yeah John, something happened between a couple of the people running it I think and there was a split. Binderplanet got all the old binderbulletin board info.

85cj7
01-13-2010, 06:01 PM
current state of destruction

Got it back together and took if for a 15 mile spin around Dallas. Other than a squeeking belt and smoking from buring off spilled oil it ran like it should with no backfires or pinging. Unfortunently it took 3 weeks and $1K.

Seth
01-13-2010, 09:18 PM
where did the grand go?

85cj7
01-14-2010, 01:05 AM
$300 machining of heads, fixing bent valve
$100 head bolts
$200 gaskets
$50 oil change (twice)
$100 o2 sensors
$15 fuel filter
$60 coolant flush/fill (twice)
$40 block sealant (that didn't work)
$25 spark plugs
$10 plastic rivits
$10 thermostat/gasket
$10 non-hardening sealant
$10 gasket instant adhesive
$5 brake cleaner

Hot Pocket
01-14-2010, 02:32 AM
Good place in town for powder coats?

DRAGOONRANCH
01-14-2010, 05:23 AM
Good place in town for powder coats?

I thought I remembered you from somewhere (and that is one ****ty wig you have now)! :gigem:


http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_9jQG1FJwo2I/Sa1Gl1pCZjI/AAAAAAAACMc/1Ac30uONSgo/s400/powder.jpg

jerryg79
01-14-2010, 06:42 AM
well played sir!

85cj7
01-14-2010, 12:55 PM
Good place in town for powder coats?

don't know of any, sorry

uglyota
01-14-2010, 12:57 PM
Good place in town for powder coats?

Think you gotta go to Nastysota to have anything big done. Small stuff get a kit from eastwood and do it in your oven (or just krylon + bake)

robertf03
01-14-2010, 01:00 PM
eastwood? you watch too much tnn. harbor frieght has the shniz to do it now.

uglyota
01-14-2010, 01:02 PM
harborfreight doesn't send me an email everyother day, eastwood does :)

Sharpe
01-14-2010, 01:34 PM
Texas Truck Riggins does powdercoating. Wtf would you powdercoat on a jetta?

agjohn02
01-14-2010, 02:13 PM
Truck Riggins (small stuff only) did my Baja light mount and Texas Custom Coaters (any size) in Navasota did the Jeep frame and cage.

JB
01-14-2010, 02:22 PM
Texas Custom Coaters did my axles. Good work.

Hot Pocket
01-14-2010, 03:56 PM
Texas Truck Riggins does powdercoating. Wtf would you powdercoat on a jetta?

wheels

thanks, thats up there off south college isn't it? there stuff is way expensive

85cj7
01-14-2010, 04:05 PM
i think thats the one off hwy 6 up north past hwy 21. don't know for sure though.

FJAggie07
01-14-2010, 04:07 PM
thanks, thats up there off south college isn't it? there stuff is way expensive

Their.

And here I have your powder coat solution:

http://www.rustoleum.com/cbgimages/products/SRHmsBlkSpL.jpg

colman
01-14-2010, 06:32 PM
blankenship, i think you are thinking of t3 or take 3 or whatever they call themselves

stx4wheeler
01-14-2010, 10:25 PM
So apparently the wheels I picked up today were not 16x8's but 16x7's. Man the guys at Crosby farm and tire are gonna hate mr when they mount up robbies old tires...

Hopefully it is even possible to get them mounted. I know it was a a real pain for me to mount the 15x8's from the frickoneer on the 16 inch wide boogers. If they do fit I won't have to worry about getting beadlocks, and my tires will prolly measure 39.5" now.

eight
01-14-2010, 11:50 PM
I have mounted 38 x 15.5 x 16.5 tires on 16.5 x 5.5 wheels. That part is not hard at all. I may be a little badder dude than most, but me and 2 screwdrivers can make it done. Breaking them off is a little different, maybe Andy could do it.

colman
01-15-2010, 10:26 AM
brians tires were on stock 7 inch chevy steelies for a long time, house of tires had no problems mounting them

Eckert
01-15-2010, 03:58 PM
which is mo' better?

700R4 or TH350

im leaning towards the 700R4 for the lower 1st.

condition, price, adapters, etc the same.

agjohn02
01-15-2010, 05:00 PM
a modern 700 is stronger but has a TV cable to worry about

robertf03
01-15-2010, 05:49 PM
at least it works in the rain

Eckert
01-18-2010, 07:47 PM
what is the threshold for a D44 ring and pinion. 5.13? 5.38?

85cj7
01-18-2010, 08:04 PM
I have 4.88s and they looked small. I can't imagine that 5.13s or higher would have anywhere close to enough contact surface.

AggieTJ2007
01-18-2010, 11:07 PM
I think 5.13 is the lowest you can go you get into a real small pinon even me d60 5.13s have a small pinion

agjohn02
01-19-2010, 03:40 PM
What size are Jeep YJ body bolts? Are all 10 the same or are the four rear ones smaller? I don't have one here I can look at.

redcagepatrol
01-19-2010, 03:42 PM
pretty sure the rears are smaller.

agjohn02
01-19-2010, 03:44 PM
I know the mounts are smaller. I don't remember if the bolts are too though.

Fredo
01-19-2010, 06:21 PM
Call Brett. He's probably sitting around with his thumb up his ass.

800-699-5337 x231 I think it is 231. He's at my old desk, so I think that is his extension.

bburris
01-19-2010, 06:36 PM
It is, I haven't had time to check on it though.

bburris
01-19-2010, 06:43 PM
What size are Jeep YJ body bolts? Are all 10 the same or are the four rear ones smaller? I don't have one here I can look at.

The 6 under the seat area are longer than the 4 on the rear crossmembers. The single bolt under the radiator is different from those 10. If you need a set of factory ones I'll dig some out tomorrow and you can have them.

agjohn02
01-19-2010, 06:46 PM
Do you know what size the bolts are? I need to know how big of a hole to drill in something to put them through, not necessarily the length.

agjohn02
01-20-2010, 08:31 AM
FYI- The front 6 bolts are 1/2" and the rear 4 are 7/16" along with the grill mount bolt.

bburris
01-20-2010, 10:13 AM
Sorry, I didn't see your last post before I left last night.

agjohn02
01-20-2010, 10:24 AM
Sorry, I didn't see your last post before I left last night.

No problem, I finally found an itemized parts list for a body lift kit.

stx4wheeler
01-21-2010, 03:41 PM
What year range np 203 do I need to do a doubler on my sm465/205. The trans is a ten spline model with the figure 8 adapter.