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8Runner
11-02-2008, 06:08 PM
As spme of you know, I blew a stub shaft on the buggy in Clayton. Jimmy helped me replace it with a stock spare I had. I think the CTM U-Joint was fubared in the process. How do I tell if it needs to be replaced too?

Any suggestions on a replacement shaft? Should I stick with Yukon (I think that is what it is)?

p.s. I am told they are Dana 44 Wagoneer axles.

85cj7
11-02-2008, 06:16 PM
ctm's are pretty cool because as long as the trunnion (sp?) is OK, everything else can be replaced which saves you allot of money. Heres the rebuild kit on the d-44 u-joints,
http://www.drivetrainoutlet.com/U_Joints-C_144_Rebuild_CTM_U_Joint_Rebuild_Kit.html
Do you want another aftermarket outer shaft, or are you asking about the inner shafts? Yukon is an OK brand but the general consciences is that alloy USA or superior are better brands.

heres some ctm info. http://coloradok5.com/ctm-d44.shtml

8Runner
11-03-2008, 12:31 AM
hmm, did, know you could rebuild the CTMs. The races (not sure if that is what they are called) are bent up on 2 of the 4 ends.

Yes, new outers. I don't want to replace the whole thing unless I have to.

85cj7
11-03-2008, 11:23 AM
yah just buy a new ctm. I don't know about the outer for a wagoneer, but I would bet that flem knows. As far as I know there are two sizes of d-44 outers, that it could be the ford one and the chevy one. I have fords in mine. . . anyways here's a link. You can measure the current "spare" you have to find out. http://completeoffroad.com/c-62665-d44-stubs.html

BMFScout
11-03-2008, 12:05 PM
Best I remember the only thing seriously fubared on yours were the bearing material because I'm betting they had never been greased. Worst case we/slim jacked up a cap, but the bearing material was fakwed anyway. You should only have to replace the stub shaft, isn't that the only thing that broke? I'd get two of those rebuild kits because I bet the other side is just as neglected/worn out, and an aftermarket chromoly or whatever shaft and you should be good. Then reserve the better part of an afternoon to fawk with those pain in the ass u-joints and swap it all out. Did you have a stock assembly we could just throw in there? I think it was the wrong side or something? It would make it a lot easier next time you decide to "tree wheel" if you had a whole assmebly you could just throw in there to get off the trail.

redcagepatrol
11-03-2008, 01:21 PM
no more tree wheeling!

8Runner
11-14-2008, 05:26 PM
Alright, I need to get this crap ordered. I think I am just going to try and grease the other side & see how it does to save some cash for now. I'll order a rebuild kit for the fubared side. Is the best place to get the rebuild kit the place Ryan quoted above?

Also, since they are currently Yukon shafts, should I stick with them or go something else?

DRAGOONRANCH
11-14-2008, 11:28 PM
Get good shafts, and keep cheap spares.

colman
11-15-2008, 02:35 AM
if your waggy axle is drivers drop then look for shafts from 80 on and if it is a pass drop then you need shafts from a 74-79 waggy. if it is a later on i have a spare short side inner

8Runner
11-15-2008, 05:02 PM
Is this (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SCOUT-II-DANA-44-CHROMO-YUKON-OUTER-AXLE-SHAFT-YAW39105_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a570Q7c66 Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp328 6Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem260313211851QQitemZ26031321 1851QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessorie s)what I need for the shaft?

colman
11-15-2008, 05:27 PM
no that is the one you would want if you used a d44 housing and d30 outers. it is scout specific

8Runner
11-18-2008, 05:12 PM
Ok, I ordered the shaft from Randy's Ring & Pinion at Blankenships recommendation. They don't carry CTM stuff though - only SuperJoint. Any suggestions on where I should get it?

p.s. My doors are looking pretty badass and coming together fast...kudos to Ryan Clarke

85cj7
11-18-2008, 06:02 PM
How much did randy's charge. You got a yukon chromolly one for a scout outer shaft right?

85cj7
11-18-2008, 06:08 PM
the general consensus from a quick search seems to be that the rebuild kit is $110 regardless of where you buy it, I pm'd a vendor on pirate to see how much they wanted for you though. I'll let you know if its any cheaper (and you get free shipping) when I hear a response.

85cj7
11-18-2008, 10:09 PM
"D44 ctm rebuild kit - $90 Shipped for 1 joint

Thanks...Scott 812-623-3473 machinewave"

There you go Scotti, give the guy a call and save yourself $20 (not including how much it would have been to ship).:gigem:

8Runner
11-19-2008, 02:48 AM
Good find - will call tomorrow.

Shaft was $89+$15 shipping.

8Runner
11-19-2008, 12:52 PM
Just tried that number - no answer. Will try again in a bit. Ryan, what is his PBB username - I will just PM him.

Part of the reason these failed (according to Jimmy) is that they have never been greased. Don't I need some type of special fitting for my grease gun to do this? Any suggestions on what I should ask for?

85cj7
11-19-2008, 01:30 PM
i think its machinewave

BMFScout
11-19-2008, 02:03 PM
http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/04140/icn/20-137612/edelmann/05_019.htm

should have it at NAPA

BMFScout
11-19-2008, 02:04 PM
Part of the reason these failed (according to Jimmy) is that they have never been greased. Don't I need some type of special fitting for my grease gun to do this? Any suggestions on what I should ask for?


The u-joint actually didn't fail, but the bronze bushings in them were trashed because of the lack of grease. Also I don't know if it says to do it, but I would freeze the caps overnight before installing.