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stx4wheeler
01-11-2009, 12:07 AM
Alright I have been destroying/building my 76 wagoneer for the past month or so.

Plan make a klogger esk rig that will be built cheap with cheap parts or parts from big nasty.

1976 grand wagoneer stock came with 360/400/quadratrac with front and rear dana 44's

Plans:
front- dodge dana 44 front-4.56's welded, with crossover steering and be setup for assist
rear- ford 8.8 4.56's welded
front suspension will be a ford radius arm setup with big nasty's superflex coils, and extended heimed arms.
rear stock ford 56" leaves that have a 7 in. offset that will be used to gain wheelbase while keeping the overall frame fairly short. I plan on moving them under the frame to make them flex better. Will have big nasty's anit-wrap bar

I am gonna narrow the front about 10 in. then tubing will be added for strength. I am gonna boatside it and bring the rockers up about 6 inches
tires most likely gonna be h-1 hummer tires cause they are cheap
seats are out of a 2004 dodge neon
I already fixed the busted timing chain cover (thanks to fred a couple years ago for helping me source this). I can promise you all if I even encounter a bad cover on one of these motors i will swap the motor instead of fixing the confounded cover.

stx4wheeler
01-11-2009, 12:11 AM
pics
before/after the rear roof, and quarters came off
http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN2990.jpg

http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN3102.jpg

http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN3123-1.jpg

http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN3119.jpg

http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN3117.jpg

http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN3116.jpg

http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN3124.jpg

stx4wheeler
01-11-2009, 12:16 AM
motor
http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN3091.jpg

http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN3093.jpg

Passenger side roof damage/repair- The roof was completey rusted out, and the structural part of the roof between the a and b pillar was so rusty i removed it with my hand, so i rebuilt it with old sections of roof and a piece of angle.

http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN3127.jpg

http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN3128.jpg

http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN3133.jpg

http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN3129.jpg

http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/jeep%20build/?action=view&current=DSCN3129.jpg

stx4wheeler
01-11-2009, 12:48 AM
alright some questions for you all

1. How far can i move the front axle forward when i convert it to coils without moving the stock( inboard of the frame )steering box if i use crossover steering? How far forward if i go full Hytsteer?

2. I know that it is gonna be a little stiff out back because of the 3in wide fullsize springs and a light rear end. Can i run water in the tires to make it flex a little better? If so how much water is to much from what you all have read? I have done no research on this but me and karl have discussed it over some beers. I guess if this doesnt work i guess i can move the spare tire out to the bumper to put some more weight out back.

jerryg79
01-11-2009, 01:15 AM
give me $50 and i'll borrow karl's trailer and haul all that junk out of your barn!

Fredo
01-11-2009, 03:56 AM
seriously? you totally fail at inserting photos.

Graystroke
01-11-2009, 09:52 AM
rust 1, nastypile 0

KrazyKarl02
01-11-2009, 10:38 AM
Frick has left out some pictures of when this truck first arrived, so I figured I would pick up where he left off. Here is the first time I saw the vehicle and the proud owner.

A little back ground, apparently this was a "beach buggie" for some years, so you know it has very little rust..... Then some time later Frick's Uncle gave some guy a hand job for it. At that time it did not run. Frick's Uncle had a retarded monkey fish squirrel work on it and get it running.

KrazyKarl02
01-11-2009, 10:42 AM
We needed to get it off the trailer, mainly because I owned the trailer and did not want a permanent hood ornament on it.....

So the starting process began, Frick handed me a coke bottle filled with gas and told me to dump it down the throat of the carb while he cranked it. Nothing happened, except both Frick and I know smelled like the official cologne of TAMOR (gas).

We found the 2 wires from the distributor to the ICM were loose. I am kind of stumped on this cause someone had spliced these 2 wires 4 times, twisted them together and not put electrical tape on them. Somehow they came loose, I think Bigfoot must have undone them, cause it is a mystery to me.

So then with the Maltoff ****tail in my hand I began dumping gas while fricked turned it over. It ran a bit and then we discovered the fuel pump was not working. We grabbed the fuel pump from big nasty, a few feet of hose and gas can. We made a "temporary" gas tank/pump system. With that it fired right on up. We drove it around the pasture.

Somehow during all of this I don't think I consumed any beer.

KrazyKarl02
01-11-2009, 10:47 AM
The vehicle has a number of "kustom" features. The dash is symmetrically laid out with about 5 aftermarket switches and a momentary switch. I know one does the ignition, the other the starter, past that I think the others turn on the heated seats or maybe the navigation system.

Apparently sometime in this jeeps "life" the front rotor exploded. Frick decided to tee the front brake line to the rear. This makes this jeep only stop on the back axle. This of course is a feature for if you are doing a lot of uphill racing where the weight is all on your back axle, or it is a desirable feature if you do not value your own life or any lives of the passengers.

My personal favorite is custom diff guard. A piece of angle welded to the frame. Good news for you guys is I don't think Frick is planning on using it, so it probably is for sale. Speak up quick, this is a fast moving item.

KrazyKarl02
01-11-2009, 10:49 AM
All that being said, the front axle swap should clear up the brakes, Frick plans and has started gutting the wiring. He also removing all other not needed things.

The 360 runs good, and did not seem to be smoking or leaking too bad. The timing was set by the best engine tuner in Crosby....

Should be a fun rig for under a grand, hell it might even be for under $500.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-11-2009, 10:54 AM
those rims are way more than worth the price that was paid to said retarded monkey fish squirrel.

stx4wheeler
01-11-2009, 11:04 AM
also look at the awesome lift shackles a combo of stock wagoneer shackles and some other shackles that were laying around, these will also be hot ticket for sale items.

as of right now i have 500 bucks in it but a hundred or more is tied up in some axle shafts that i bought that were a half an into shorter than what i needed. I also have a complete set of shafts for both axles, so bring on the skinny pedal.

Big nasty 2 barrel motorcraft will be mounted atop this beast.

original purchase price was FREE.

Sharpe
01-11-2009, 11:41 AM
Looks like Kevin has owned it since it was brand new.

bburris
01-11-2009, 01:15 PM
No matter how free it is, sometimes it may be better for a vehicle to just go straight to a scrapyard.

colman
01-11-2009, 03:32 PM
since you are swapping axles i may be interested in the front one that is in there right now. how much ya want for it?

Seth
01-11-2009, 05:15 PM
500 bucks :)

jerryg79
01-11-2009, 05:22 PM
seriously, that's the turd i've been hearing about since you were a freshman?

colman
01-11-2009, 11:23 PM
500 bucks :)

sold ....... if i were a schmuck.......well i may be one anyway but not for 500

stx4wheeler
01-13-2009, 12:16 AM
scored some 35x15x15 boggers today on 15x8 aluminium wheels with 40-50% tread. They are a little on the dry side, have some outer lug chunking, and a sidewall gash but they were cheap, have like 3 or 3.5 backspacing, now i no longer will need to make klogger esk wheels even though they are all the rage these days.

I dunno on the axle colman i will be selling it, but not sure for how much, i kinda would like to keep the drive slugs and yoke if they will work on my dodge 44, so i may part it out or sell it whole. Either way it wont be 500 bucks.

Are all 44 yokes the same? Cause if so i can just rob the back one.

Also any opinions on the 2 questions from the first page about running water in the tires or axle movement?

bburris
01-13-2009, 09:11 AM
Are all 44 yokes the same? Cause if so i can just rob the back one.


Pretty sure those will be the same, you should be able to rob the rear yoke.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-13-2009, 09:15 AM
Word has it to fill the tires to the top of the rim. I would recommend a mix of antifreeze with it to help keep the rust down if using steel rims.

CheapJeep
01-13-2009, 03:32 PM
Did the d44 have a yoke on it when you picked it up from me? Could've sworn it did and I gave you the spare I had. The pinion splines might vary between the waggy and dodge, not sure.

Were you able to get the inner and outer shafts? I had a hard time finding a set since the dodge 44 is more rare, ended up getting them through Houston Drivetrain Service over on 610 east past 59.

colman
01-13-2009, 08:19 PM
i have 4 or 5 more yokes so i won't need it, or i could give you one of mine. you can have the slugs or again i have 2 sets and could give you one of those. i'm kinda low on funds right now but just shoot me a price when you get to making a decision.

stx4wheeler
01-13-2009, 09:58 PM
Did the d44 have a yoke on it when you picked it up from me? Could've sworn it did and I gave you the spare I had. The pinion splines might vary between the waggy and dodge, not sure.

Were you able to get the inner and outer shafts? I had a hard time finding a set since the dodge 44 is more rare, ended up getting them through Houston Drivetrain Service over on 610 east past 59.

robbie the axle had a yoke on it, but i was gonna swap yokes from axle to axle if the u-joint on the one you gave me was different than the waggie driveshafts.

i bought a set of supposed dodge ramcharger shafts both stubs/inner and the inners were a 1/2 inch off on both sides.

then i bought another fullset of ebay for cheap and i now have like 5 or six stubs, a good spare inner short side inner and maybe use the set that is off by 1/2 for spares in a pinch.


alright colman ill shoot you a price when i get to that point.

eight
01-13-2009, 10:01 PM
Don't be giving away my slugs.

colman
01-14-2009, 10:08 AM
that doesn't include your set.

stx4wheeler
01-15-2009, 11:02 PM
patched the driverside roof, removed the coffin shaped gas tank, removed the rear axle and springs with some help from karl. Now its time to do some frame patching before any further work is done. The 8.8 is 7 inches wider wms to wms than the rear 44 fyi.

stx4wheeler
02-02-2009, 01:38 PM
alright T- 18 days and counting. I "mounted" big nasty's old tank to the bed with some ratchet straps and some half inch rubber mat between the tank and the bed give it some give. I mounted,plumbed, and wired the electric fuel pump. Fixed the super rusty frame with 3x3x3/8. I also changed the oil, and installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge( yet it isnt getting any oil in the line or showing any pressure- might have to look at this again). I also cleaned up the brakes on the 8.8 and welded up some grinder marks from spring perch removal. No pics at this point.

mudtoy67
02-02-2009, 01:43 PM
You have to prime the oil gage. Remove the hose from the fitting. Point it at your face, or the face of a nearby colleague. Start the engine. When the oil squirts out it's primed.:gigem:

stx4wheeler
02-02-2009, 02:42 PM
cool thanks bdr, karl wanna come help?:gigem:

uglyota
02-02-2009, 05:25 PM
...build one that had two slips

ooh...this would be my suggestion! You could get the "club innovator" award as well as the "creative trail fix" award!

stx4wheeler
02-02-2009, 05:30 PM
nah that was a brain fart that is why i deleted it. im just gonna make one from pipe.

but why wouldnt two slips on one each end work?

uglyota
02-02-2009, 05:38 PM
Guess it could work if you had a limiter on each one to keep it from slipping out

stx4wheeler
02-06-2009, 04:23 PM
alright no pics cause this is being built to fast. over the last couple days i got the oil pressure gauge working(old line was klogged up), installed water temp gauge. Karl has removed a ton of vacuum lines and swapped out the crappy stock jeep carb for big nasty's 2 barrel motorcraft. I figured out how long my wheelbase is and have started to make and tack on the rear spring hangers. I've got all the parts ready to rebuild the front axle, and the rear is close to being put together. If anyone in h-town is bored this weekend come on over and help, there will be beer involved.

big thanks to karl for doing the carb, it runs like a champ now.

Fredo
02-06-2009, 05:46 PM
Carb...offroad....bleh.

Sharpe
02-06-2009, 06:04 PM
Anyone want to start a pool on how long it takes for an engine fire to occur?

Graystroke
02-06-2009, 10:32 PM
Carb...offroad....bleh.
yeah, who tried to wheel moab w/ one?

KrazyKarl02
02-06-2009, 10:57 PM
In defense of the carb, it is a 2 barrel on a 360, it has zero hesitation. It is fed by an electric fuel pump. I have the accelerator pump putting the most it can to it. The acc. pump seems like a small feet, but I the linkage was boofed from a big nasty install.... I have reduced the engine from like 15 vacuum lines to 4 (brakes, choke pull off, reservoir, and tranny modulator). I made the choke actually work, something most of the rigs on TAMOR do not have working right.

To start when cold all you have to do is slowly depress the pedal and crank. When hot it cranks right up. Should be ok for decent angles....

Side note, this heep is equipped with Quadracrap... It has 2 vacuum lines going to the t-case. Apparently this t-case has a carrier to separate the front axle from the back. Then with a flick of a switch it locks the carrier???

My question is for a straight off road rig, what is wrong with me hooking the locking vacuum line to the engine full time. This way it is always in 4WD.

Thoughts?

Fredo
02-06-2009, 11:11 PM
yeah, who tried to wheel moab w/ one?

Who ran lower proving grounds that year?

TexTJ209
02-06-2009, 11:44 PM
In defense of the carb, it is a 2 barrel on a 360, it has zero hesitation. It is fed by an electric fuel pump. I have the accelerator pump putting the most it can to it. The acc. pump seems like a small feet, but I the linkage was boofed from a big nasty install.... I have reduced the engine from like 15 vacuum lines to 4 (brakes, choke pull off, reservoir, and tranny modulator). I made the choke actually work, something most of the rigs on TAMOR do not have working right.

To start when cold all you have to do is slowly depress the pedal and crank. When hot it cranks right up. Should be ok for decent angles....

Side note, this heep is equipped with Quadracrap... It has 2 vacuum lines going to the t-case. Apparently this t-case has a carrier to separate the front axle from the back. Then with a flick of a switch it locks the carrier???

My question is for a straight off road rig, what is wrong with me hooking the locking vacuum line to the engine full time. This way it is always in 4WD.

Thoughts?


Its a Quadratrac. It IS always in 4wd. ;)


As long as its only driven offroad, I don't think locking it in emergency drive permanently will hurt it. Personally, I'd leave it with the factory setup using the in-glovebox switch, as the q-trac's diff is a picky mofo. Plus new parts for them don't exist.

Graystroke
02-06-2009, 11:46 PM
Who ran lower proving grounds that year?

who had their hood up half the trip? good thing the battery was charged
cracks me up. first you knock the carb and then it was awesome.

KrazyKarl02
02-06-2009, 11:47 PM
Yeah, sometime in this jeeps life that e-switch was removed???? It's really a miracle it ran, I mean there were loose vacuum lines everywhere....

If it has some gay carrier in the t-case it is not always in real 4WD. Like you said, leave it in e-mode and call it good. Axles will be an 8.8 and 44 w/ 4.56's so there will be less stress on the t-case (in theory)....

TexTJ209
02-06-2009, 11:55 PM
Yep, more or less.

Regular Mode: Part Time 4wd, functions a bit like a limited slip
E-Drive: 4WD High
E-Drive + Low Range Lever (if you have one): 4WD Low

Make sure y'all check the chain tension and make sure its using real q-trac fluid, you CANNOT use any old oil in a quadratrac. These two things are the reason its gotten such a bad rap over the years..

BMFScout
02-07-2009, 12:07 AM
who had their hood up half the trip? good thing the battery was charged
cracks me up. first you knock the carb and then it was awesome.


You had your hood up first! Where was that, Sweetwater? :flipoff2:

Fredo
02-07-2009, 12:21 AM
who had their hood up half the trip? good thing the battery was charged
cracks me up. first you knock the carb and then it was awesome.

Trust me, I'm not defending carburetors....I'm just taking a shot at the mighty factory fuel injected rover you brought to Moab that year. I thought that's what we were doing here....busting each other's balls. Didn't you get laid last night Grayson, or did you find out that you don't actually "still got it?" :flipoff2::D

KrazyKarl02
02-07-2009, 12:23 AM
I like beer, vodka mixes good with sprite or lemonade, does grayson still have "it"?

snake on.....

Graystroke
02-07-2009, 08:22 AM
You had your hood up first! Where was that, Sweetwater? :flipoff2:

who drove there! and who didn't even wheel the first day b/c their **** was didn't work.

one last one. who couldn't even make it up lions back...i mean come on. that was pathetic.

I remember the home video curt took and he was paning the scene and all the trucks on one of the trails (golden spike or hell's revenge.. dunno) and he panned to yours and there was the hood up and to brunes standing on each front tire. w/ the way the hood opens all you see is legs and half a torso.

Anyways, the commentary went sarcastically like this" now there's an unusual sight, the hood up on the scout, we hadn't see that at all this week" ha ha

Graystroke
02-07-2009, 08:23 AM
**** yeah I still got it.

BMFScout
02-07-2009, 12:01 PM
you can be a real asshole sometimes. that was the shakedown run for my truck after the soa, in rerospect we should have taken it on. a few runs before we left but whatever, young and stupid. yes we had problems the whole trip, but we got it going and ran a trail the last day your truck wouldn't have even thought about running.

Graystroke
02-07-2009, 04:26 PM
you can be a real asshole sometimes. that was the shakedown run for my truck after the soa, in rerospect we should have taken it on. a few runs before we left but whatever, young and stupid. yes we had problems the whole trip, but we got it going and ran a trail the last day your truck wouldn't have even thought about running.

thanks, i try. i guess I forgot the :flipoff2: yes, the brune's rule. scouts rule, the 345 is the greatest engine ever known to man and if you don't agree fred will want to fight. is that asshole enough?

:flipoff2:

i think it's funny how i just made a comment on supposedly "how terrible the carb was." for frick's budget and expectation it will be fine. that comment turned into a brune "oh yeah my uncle can kick your uncle's ass" type deal. geez chill the **** out. yes, i'm sure your scout will go more places. and yes, fred's highly modified out of the ordinary sprung under scout is the best. do i care? no, wasn't the point. i just thought it was a case of hello kettle, my name is pot. i guess people in wylie "don't have it" and aren't getting laid enough.:rolleyes:

BMFScout
02-07-2009, 05:05 PM
I'm just saying you make it hard to be friends sometimes. I pinch you on the ass and you smack me across the face with a 2x4, you're not being funny your being hateful there is a difference and you usually miss that.

Graystroke
02-07-2009, 05:44 PM
yeah, who tried to wheel moab w/ one?

this is being hateful? whatever dude.

robertf03
02-07-2009, 06:33 PM
center diff lock, its really not that exotic. Even junky big 3 trucks used them in np203s

Fredo
02-07-2009, 07:40 PM
Man, sorry about your thread frick. This has just become retarded.

AggieTJ2007
02-07-2009, 08:49 PM
this is some good intertainment, I think yall should kiss and makeup

Scouts rule, jeeps are even better though

KrazyKarl02
02-07-2009, 10:00 PM
this is being hateful? whatever dude.

I hate everyone who likes rice crispies, f all of those a**holes....

stx4wheeler
02-09-2009, 02:15 PM
Kasey thanks for the info on the case. Can i get the mystery q-trac fluid from any local parts store? Also is there an easy way to tighen the chain if it is loose?

on the carb note, it was a pretty good setup in big nasty. There were only in a handfull of times that it stalled out, and karl has done a great job getting it tuned up. Coop is also running the same carb i think.


Progress from the weekend-
I did some more frame bracing on the passengerside framerail so that i knew i had a solid place to mount the front spring hangers. Both front and rear spring hangers are welded on, but will be getting a crossbrace so they dont further boof the crappy jeep frame. I also cleaned up the 8.8 further removing all spring perches. Things i learned while doing this the axle is bent pretty bad, the tubes on both sides are bent upwards but everything spins freely so im hoping i can do some type of straightening then weld in a truss of sorts. Also the way the the drop in locker has been welded completely together when a spring or pin broke you can no longer remove the axle shafts since it is a c-clip axle, nor can you easily get the center section out, AWESOME i guess i can throw away the spare shafts for it.

Also for the sake of time i measured the spring center on the jeep axle and the dodge axle and they are exactly the same. So for karl party weekend i will leave the front leaf sprung but sprung over which the dodge axle already is.

Tonight i hope to finish the spring pads and get the rear mounted up.

TexTJ209
02-09-2009, 02:24 PM
There is no way to tighten the chain unfortunately. BJ's has new non-Chinese ones, and the fluid for that matter.


To check the tension of the chain, insert a screwdriver in the chain-inspection hole at the bottom of the case after the fluid is drained. Push up on the bottom of the chain to see how loose it is; if there's more than a half inch of slop, the chain should be replaced.

A Jeep dealer can also get the fluid, but its expensive($18/qt).

You can also make your own:
3 Quarts Non-Detergent 30wt Oil
1 8oz bottle of Limited Slip Additive

stx4wheeler
02-09-2009, 03:53 PM
thanks, i guess ill be making some fluid if mine is low.

KrazyKarl02
02-09-2009, 05:01 PM
You can also make your own:
3 Quarts Non-Detergent 30wt Oil
1 8oz bottle of Limited Slip Additive

Seriously???? :eek:

stx4wheeler
02-11-2009, 10:10 PM
bad news this will not make it to the karl bash, put the rear suspension together and it is way tall it now need to redo the leafs and put them outboard more in a stock location, booo. i would rather take my time to build this that build it then redo it two months later. Turns out it was a 6 month project trying to get completed in 3 oh well.

KrazyKarl02
02-12-2009, 08:24 AM
It's ok, cause Kevin is going to take his Blue Bronco and wheel it... :flipoff2:

jerryg79
02-12-2009, 09:44 AM
bad news this will not make it to the karl bash, put the rear suspension together and it is way tall it now need to redo the leafs and put them outboard more in a stock location, booo. i would rather take my time to build this that build it then redo it two months later. Turns out it was a 6 month project trying to get completed in 3 oh well.

Yeah do it right the first time, otherwise it will just be a giant rusted out turd....

stx4wheeler
02-12-2009, 08:21 PM
hey jerry hows is that 4 wheeler, i mean jimmy, i mean water heater doing:flipoff2:

jerryg79
02-12-2009, 08:42 PM
I'm sorry young man, but park rules CLEARLY state, you must be this tall to insult me.:flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
03-04-2009, 01:25 PM
alright still no pics as i cannot find my camera cord. Version 3.0 of the rear suspension is complete minus some added bracing for the rear hangers. Im guessing at around 6 inches of lift. That should be about perfect with the sprung over front with stock leafs. Cook, Davido etc throw me up a pic or a link or two on what you all did to fix your front spring wrap if you dont mind.

stx4wheeler
03-06-2009, 12:20 PM
rear axle is now centered and under the truck for good. I built a bad dood front dana 44 cover out of the stock dodge cover and a ford ttb diff, thanks for the diff karl. I also drilled both knuckle's out to accept the 3/4 heims on my steering, totally cleaned all sand/mud crap out of the axle tubes and housing. The only things left to do on the front is put some more weld on the spider gears, and re-install all of the shafts and such. I also started the boat siding.

Here as some pics of frame repair, rear end with patented frick- axle jackstands that allow you roll axles around the shop floor with extreme ease, and diff cover. Also my custom carb tuner at work.

stx4wheeler
03-06-2009, 12:21 PM
more

uglyota
03-06-2009, 12:39 PM
Texas chainsaw massacre facemask diff guard!

DRAGOONRANCH
03-06-2009, 12:44 PM
Texas chainsaw massacre facemask diff guard!

I bet Rowdy gets wood when he sees it, because that is some of the most redneck shiat I have ever seen. :gigem:

stx4wheeler
03-06-2009, 12:51 PM
Texas chainsaw massacre facemask diff guard!

exactly my thought when i was cutting it all up

mudtoy67
03-06-2009, 01:45 PM
Why didn't you just cut out the entire bolt pattern/cover from the ttb and use that?:confused2

http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=15358&stc=1&d=1236360059

stx4wheeler
03-06-2009, 03:17 PM
the covers dont have quite the same dimensions,as you can see from all of the cuts in the ttb cover that i scabbed on top. That was the original plan when i made the cover. It may not look great but it makes for a cheap an really thick front cover.

mudtoy67
03-06-2009, 04:08 PM
The bolt pattern is not the same?

stx4wheeler
03-06-2009, 04:37 PM
the pattern is the same, but the bolt holes in the ttb cover are larger than in the solid 44. Plus i wanted something thicker than just the ttb, i now have a cover that is prolly 1/4 or a little thicker

Reckless
03-06-2009, 09:42 PM
I bet Rowdy gets wood when he sees it, because that is some of the most redneck shiat I have ever seen. :gigem:

Chubby maybe, wood no

DRAGOONRANCH
03-06-2009, 09:57 PM
Chubby maybe, wood no

You quit takin your viagra again, didncha?

:flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
03-18-2009, 10:38 AM
alright the turd sets on 4 wheels again. The guy who had this axle before robbie needs to be kicked in the junk, the axle used different wheel bearings from side to side, but this was all fixed by knocking out all the races and replacing all bearings. The previous owner also took the liberty to cut off the factory studs on the dodge pumpkin that act as the inner u bolt. So hopfully robbie can get me a pic (or the old u bolt) on how it was mounted when he used it.

I have the driverside boatside 80% complete and will try and get a pic or two tomorrow

CheapJeep
03-18-2009, 02:43 PM
Yeah...not only did the guy chop off the studs, he also welded the broken stub shaft back together before selling it. I was still in highschool when I bought the set of axles and had no idea what I was getting into.

I talked to Blankenship about the old spring plates for those axles I gave him. Apparently they didn't work and were scrapped.

I found a pic of the setup I used in place of the studs. For the bottom I cut a 3 1/2" diameter by 3 1/2" long piece of pipe in half forming a horseshoe and notched it out for the cast housing gussets. Then welded 2"x3 1/2" 3/8" plates to the lip on both sides of the horseshoe. The upper plate was 7 1/2"x3 1/2" 3/8" plate, using 5/8" grade 8 hardware. It basically sandwiched the spring to the perch/housing. Never had any issues with the setup and ran shims to adjust for the caster angle.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/DSC_1225.jpg

stx4wheeler
03-18-2009, 03:37 PM
thanks robbie i looked thru your old thread and found that pic as well as a couple others.

Oh yeah i flipped the front springs around to gain 2" of ground clearance. The current and i believe final wheelbase is right around 113" that seems a little long to me but i think i have enough lift plus the added height of the boatsides it should not be to bad a problem.

CheapJeep
03-18-2009, 04:09 PM
No problem man. I didn't bring my laptop home and could only find that one on my photobucket.

The rear diff guard and front cover came out nice. The 8.8" looks alot better without the old shatty collapsed spring perches on there. Not sure if you've noticed the tubes on it but it looks like they are bent slightly upward in pics. It looked the same under my jeep and I never had an issue, maybe it's just deceiving.

stx4wheeler
03-19-2009, 09:10 AM
no it isnt deceiving, they are bent pretty good but everything spins freely. I thought about straightening them, but said f-it. I think i am going to weld a small truss on there with integrated anti-wrap bar mount to keep it from bending further

stx4wheeler
03-19-2009, 12:00 PM
pics on 4 wheels, and before/after the boatside on the driverside

boatside is made from 3.5" pipe for the upper and then, .120 wall 1 3/4 hrew for the runners

stx4wheeler
03-19-2009, 12:01 PM
more

texasxj
03-19-2009, 12:18 PM
Your not that tall-rather your jeep anyway :flipoff2:

CheapJeep
03-19-2009, 12:51 PM
Looks sweet!

The name "Nastypile" suites it well.

stx4wheeler
04-08-2009, 04:15 PM
alright both boatsides are in place, but havent skinned them yet. Draglink is cut to length just waiting on a new insert. I also tied the boatsides together left to right and this will also function as the main mounting bar for the seats. I have the driver side seat brackets cut and notched they just need to be welded together and holes drilled for the seats. Im hoping to have all of the fab work done this week so that next week can be spent doing brakes/steering/wiring. Karl has started to trim down the clusterfawk of a wiring system.

stx4wheeler
04-16-2009, 05:05 PM
cage, seats, and five points are done. Now i need a floor, steering, some sort of bastardized brake system, a rear driveshaft,exhaust, and tighten the front pinion back down, sunday is coming quickly...... hopefully post up some pics of the cage and seats tomorrow.

KrazyKarl02
04-17-2009, 07:07 AM
What, no cup holder?

stx4wheeler
04-20-2009, 06:36 PM
alright i had some trailer tire issues and fagged out on spring creek yesterday. So i ran it around my house and within 15minutes it over heated, and burned thru the plastic line for the oil pressure gauge which got layed against the manifold. Things that need to be fixed before tcc, install some sort of electric fan either a pusher and leave the mechanical fan in place with a pusher fan in front of the radiator? or remove the mechanical fan and install a new 15 in e-fan. I also need to turn the idle screw down since it is idiling to fast.

What is everyone running on there v-8's out there to keep it cool? Will a 15inch e-fan from vatozone do the trick most likely?


flex pics

Sharpe
04-20-2009, 07:02 PM
Ford windstar or taurus fan(s).

85cj7
04-20-2009, 07:05 PM
I just have a cheap vatozone 16" puller. But if it's overheating and you already have a functioning fan a bigger fan is just a band-aid fix and isn't addressing your real problem. Find the true reason it's overheating.

stx4wheeler
04-20-2009, 07:21 PM
the real problem is it is a 32 year old truck, that doesn't have a shroud for the mechanical fan if i had to guess.

KrazyKarl02
04-20-2009, 08:33 PM
that doesn't have a shroud for the mechanical fan if i had to guess.

bingo...

Is that a skull and cross bone on the wheel slug? :flipoff2:

DRAGOONRANCH
04-20-2009, 11:59 PM
I had two 12"s on the chevy and they did pretty good. Depending on the cfm, two slightly smaller may be better than the one large 15"

eight
04-21-2009, 10:36 AM
I have two 12" ones on the jeep. It will run a little warm with just one of them. I like that if one motor burnt out I'd still be OK. They're off an 03 malibu and fit the cj radiator very well.

I'm considering going back to a mechanical fan to have less crap to worry about. Probably a flex fan.

redcagepatrol
04-21-2009, 08:40 PM
SPAL fan - build a shroud...

stx4wheeler
04-28-2009, 11:11 PM
me needum waggie quadra trac t-case kasey or anyone got one? i will try jb weld first.

TexTJ209
04-28-2009, 11:29 PM
Only one I've got is trashed and in corpus.

TexTJ209
04-30-2009, 03:54 PM
Kevin, there isn't much (if anything) that will bolt in place of the Quadratrac due to it using a big ass 10 spline input shaft. I'll keep an eye out for a replacement..


Edit: You'd have to swap the tailshaft and adapter on the TH400 to go to any other tcase. They came with a D20 behind the TH400, so if you could find that setup it'd be a good swap, but they aren't exactly common.


What exactly happened to yours?

bcolman
04-30-2009, 04:04 PM
he landed on a rock and the rock won

TexTJ209
04-30-2009, 04:14 PM
So just the case is fawked, or did it take out the magic bits inside?

bcolman
04-30-2009, 04:19 PM
he was still able to drive it so i would assume that just the case is toast, but i am not sure

stx4wheeler
04-30-2009, 05:05 PM
case has a pencil sized hole below where the rear output is.

do i need a full case or can i find one that is missing the low range box? kasey give me a call if you can so i can run some things by you 7 1 3 670 4 5 3 5

stx4wheeler
10-30-2009, 01:51 PM
alright the jeep is back in the shop and time to get it ready for clayton

alright Problems that have to be fixed:

RE-wire and install chevy one wire alt. i hear i need one from an early 90's caddy without the window defroster anyone got a part #?

Make sure my trans still works after its up hill raping(uh i mean recovery)

Swap t-cases

Mount head lights

install shocks

TexTJ209
10-30-2009, 06:54 PM
For a CS144 for an FSJ just get an alternator for a '94 Caddy, 4.9L, w/o heated windshield.

Hot Pocket
10-30-2009, 07:07 PM
For a CS144 for an FSJ just get an alternator for a '94 Caddy, 4.9L, w/o heated windshield.

ACDELCO Part # 3342385A
ACDELCO Part # 3342385 (140 amp)
REMY Part # 91406 (140 amp)
BOSCH Part # AL8619X
REMY Part # 20580
DENSO Part # 2105193


hey-o

stx4wheeler
10-30-2009, 08:08 PM
Cool thanks guys

Sharpe
10-31-2009, 02:52 AM
I'm glad there are trucks out there that make me feel better about ze Pigpen!

stx4wheeler
11-01-2009, 01:26 AM
Got the new to me rear bumper and tire carrier mounted. I just need to weld on the bolts for the high lift and weld on some tabs for recovery points. I also picked up my new cs 144. Tomorrow I am gonna swap the the serpentine pulley for a v-belt setup and get it mounted up.

KrazyKarl02
11-05-2009, 10:47 PM
I was thinking, we should have a safety thread. Let's start that. I will suggest we start with talking about fire safety. Who has tips or a story about fire?

....

Man, why am I in Kevin's Nasty Pile thread?

P.S. I am not talking about the smoking at Trees....

stx4wheeler
11-06-2009, 12:18 AM
Kasey did they ever use fsj's as fire department vehicle's because mine really likes to catch on fire.

P.s the gas tank that sits on my bed had a pin hole in it that leaked under and around the tank(I was unaware of this leaking). When i was pitting the final touches on the rear bumper/tire carrier I noticed a flash from behind my welding hood. Turns out the whole back of the jeep was in fire. Fortunately I had my old ass fire extinguisher nearby to save the day and my new house. That dust goes everywhere when you dispense it in your garage....that and karls moms a ho.

TexTJ209
11-06-2009, 01:00 AM
Kasey did they ever use fsj's as fire department vehicle's because mine really likes to catch on fire.

Yes. :flipoff2:


And they do like catching on fire. Especially due to the ****ty ammeter setup, I'd just bypass the damn thing if this giant pile of awesome even has gauges.

colman
11-06-2009, 03:56 PM
ive caught my red jeep on fire 3 times, used the same extinguisher all 3 times and it still reads full, granted they were all really small fires but none the less.

FJAggie07
11-06-2009, 04:27 PM
ive caught my red jeep on fire 3 times, used the same extinguisher all 3 times and it still reads full, granted they were all really small fires but none the less.

My Uncle has a pocketknife?

TexTJ209
11-06-2009, 07:11 PM
My spare tire caught on fire while I was driving down the highway. I win!

stx4wheeler
11-08-2009, 10:06 PM
Alright alternator swap done and the jeep runs again. There is one new problem though apperantly when I punched the hole in the t-case I also broke off the foot of the adapter between the trans and the t-case that supports the whole combo.

Kasey do you have one of these laying around???

TexTJ209
11-08-2009, 10:13 PM
Nope.

colman
11-09-2009, 01:11 AM
junior may

stx4wheeler
11-09-2009, 01:27 AM
Pics of progress hope they work

http://m553.photobucket.com/albums/stx4wheeler/?pbauth=1_uLEBonVPfaLdh1h3YMYz2UQCgEii2aRSlQnpcNRA CRXsvlKGOOcFNCaRrS904SLA%2B3k42bd6sb4vPSzXYYUnjo4b 8sb5OBX%2FqN%2FAY5xNZQ2ngWtGk3E5Hv%2FVsZzff%2FAtJn dd%2BVVVIMly%2BwXC8U%2BvmaWGJu870aTuG%2FDsbHZVoEg% 3D

Hot Pocket
11-09-2009, 02:05 AM
Wow, and I thought Pigpen was ugly! :flipoff2:

looks good frick

DRAGOONRANCH
11-09-2009, 03:03 AM
That rear panel looks pretty cool w/ the lights in it like that.

Sharpe
11-09-2009, 09:19 AM
The tail lights look prety cool, you gonna paint it? I assume you're going to build a plain, low profile, flatbed?

stx4wheeler
11-09-2009, 08:25 PM
There is some tubing paint and more body mods coming down the pipeline but for now I must go remove the old t-case and adapter. New to me adapter should be here Thursday. Whoop hopefully I can get it done for the creek.

eight
11-09-2009, 09:29 PM
Mount that tire flat on the bed. That way you'll be able to see behind you. I like the new look.

CheapJeep
11-09-2009, 10:08 PM
I dig it...

stx4wheeler
11-09-2009, 11:08 PM
I think I am eventually going to angle/tilt the tire towards the cab/ bed more and move it a little more into the bed 1 to see a little easier, and 2 because it sticks out really far.

T-case and broke ass adapter have been removed. I also soaked the trans bolts and bushings with pb blaster so I can replace all the bushings. The new adapter should be here Thursday at the latest.

stx4wheeler
11-13-2009, 01:14 AM
Alright the e-fan and voltmeter are hooked up, and Ii replaced the cheap plastic oil pressure line with a copper one after melting 3 of them. I also got the new tcase to trans adapter installed, along with all new tranny mounts. Tomorrow I need to make magic quadratrac fluid, swap out a busted t-case yoke, and then stab the t-case and we should be ready to rock.

stx4wheeler
11-17-2009, 10:45 AM
New clayton short list of have to fix
Motor mounts
Find out if it is body flex, drivetrain flex or bad linkages that are making it mysteriously change gears in low. Hopefully the above fixes the problem.
New valve cover gasket on the driverside
Shocks and mounts

Like to get done
tube work
narrow front
get and install full hi-steer
figure out why it turns more right than left
install hydro assist
make new toolbox
Make it through a whole wheeling trip(most likely not happening for a few more runs)

Sharpe
11-18-2009, 09:49 AM
You have a 60 in the front? The turning problem is 90% likely a draglink length issue.

KrazyKarl02
11-18-2009, 11:00 AM
You have a 60 in the front? The turning problem is 90% likely a draglink length issue.

It is Robbie's old 44

stx4wheeler
11-18-2009, 09:00 PM
The draglink and tie rod are from big nasty I need to align it and then go from there. I cut the drag link down som already but left it a little long because of a problem with the shipping of my inserts.

Today I fixed the leaky valve cover but now the workings of the internal combustion engine are giving me problems. I started it and it ran like normal but just wouldn't get warm enough to idle. The motor kept dying. Now I can barely get the motor to start and it will only run for about 20-30seconds before it dies even with my foot in the gas. I'm thinking I have a bent pushrod from the brake booster hitting the valve cover or the choke is stuck.

Thoughts?

KrazyKarl02
11-18-2009, 11:21 PM
I am guessing the choke is stuck. It has a completely mechanical choke, which I like, but need tuning.

eight
11-19-2009, 12:50 PM
It has 8 cylinders. One bent pushrod would hardly be noticeable. Back in the day, my pushrods would fall out from under the rockers, never gave any trouble.

stx4wheeler
11-22-2009, 08:28 PM
Alright this thing plain ass sucks

Things I got done this weekend.
Replaced motor mounts, both mounts were completely seperated from the metal plate and looked like they had been like that for a while.
Replaced the worn out rag joint with a metal u-joint

Re rtv'd the valve cover for the second time
Re rtv'd the trans adapter to t-case to stop a leak
fixed a small brake fluid leak

Now for the problems. Alright it steers great to the right and only steers about 75% of it's radius to the left when on the ground. When I Jack up the front end it steers almost perfect left to right and doesn't seem to be binding??? I still haven't re done the draglink but that should not be the reason for this problem.

Next, it randomly decides to puke and leak ATF from somewhere up by the motor. It will slowly leak from somewhere then you park it when you leave there is a big puddle. I've tried getting under there to look but when I do it mysteriously seems to not be leaking. It is also not a fluid issue because it was actually way low when I checked it.

Oh yeah and now the oil pan is leaking like crazy because it didn't the motor mount swap.

eight
11-28-2009, 09:11 AM
The motor mounts are weak. I came up with a fool proof way to keep them from separating. Drill a 1/2" hole through the mount, insert proper length 1/2" bolt. Tighten a nut on the bolt until it just touches the mount, do not tighten the **** out of it. This way, the mounts still do dampen vibration, but can't back out. You will either need to use a lock nut, or double-nut it to keep the nut from backing off. It you tighten it too much, you get lots of vibration.

KrazyKarl02
12-05-2009, 10:50 PM
Tech question: How can I remove the yokes off of a quadratrac transfer case when the impact wrench won't do it?

Answer: Plave case on ground, drive over it with Klogger. This secures it. Apply pipe wrench to hold yoke, then insert 1/2" ratchet and use driveshaft tube cheater pipe to remove.

DRAGOONRANCH
12-05-2009, 11:20 PM
You have that pipe wench upside down...
wench this :blackflipoff2: