Ford 9 inch

[mudtoy67]

Starting my Klogger9 build...

Plans:
57" WMS
4.56 gears
lincoln locked
Ford 8.8 disk brakes
diff skid
back brace or truss

So...narrowing. The axle is currently 65" WMS, so I gotta take 8" out of it. The center section is offset 1.125" to the passenger side. Do most people take the same amount out of both tubes? Any reason I wouldn't want to take 5.125" drivers/2.875" pass. to center it?

It already has the late model big bearing ends, so I'm planning on reusing them. A possible problem is the tubes are 3.25" diameter and neck down to ~3.125" where the end welds on. When I narrow the housing the ends will now have to weld into the 3.25" diameter. Think I need to get new ends to fit the ID of the 3.25" tube, or will alignment with the jig and a good weld be enough?

For bracing- truss or back brace? I'm leaning toward the back brace because from my measurements the spring perches are going to be pretty close to the center section...making for a pretty short truss.

[85cj7]

Glad you made this thread. I started my 9" build today too.
F-150 housing
Narrowed to stock cj width
Big Bearing Ends
Currie nodular third member
Moser Engineering 35 spline shafts and spool
4.11 gears
Trussed/Shaved
8.8 brakes
Pinion guard

My housing doesn't taper so I can't help you there sorry.
I'll either going to re-use the ends or get some from flem.
I'm hoping to get the alignment pucks and rod from creighton, who I heard had has them now.
I'm not sure what kind of truss I want to do either. Im thinking rear facing instead of on top because of the complications of spring perches and antiwrap bar brackets.

I just tore mine apart today, it was from a '82 f-150, had 31 spline shafts, crappy a$$ drum brakes and 2.97 gears in the thirdmember. All of which I'll be selling.

[85cj7]

Not an immediate build, i'll finish it over the next year or so. I want to run 37s after the 35s wear. I went to awesome auto for a np-435, found only one and didn't like the wear I saw on the gears. I'll look in CS for one.

EDIT. SH*T sorry Jimmy, I pushed the wrong button and your post went bye bye. Sorry again.

[85cj7]

I was mistaken I looked again, and mine does taper down about 3" in from the tube ends? I'm not quite sure what to do about that. Over all length is 60 3/4" from flange to flange.

[KrazyKarl02]

I just tore mine apart today, it was from a '82 f-150, had 31 spline shafts, crappy a$$ drum brakes and 2.97 gears in the thirdmember. All of which I'll be selling.

Oddly enough, the 9" BDR has was from an '82 F-150 and originally came with 3.00 gears.... Just think in 1981 they could have been sitting next to each other on a shelf, proud cause they were brand new and now they are bothing being bastardized by you idiots.....

[Busa]

What is the with on a CJ. I think the early bronco housing are about 56.

[mudtoy67]

From what I've read, the EB is 58" wms.

[mudtoy67]

I just tore mine apart today, it was from a '82 f-150, had 31 spline shafts, crappy a$$ drum brakes and 2.97 gears in the thirdmember. All of which I'll be selling.

I'll give you $5 for your crappy ass 31 spline shafts.:D

[BroncoJo]

So...narrowing. The axle is currently 65" WMS, so I gotta take 8" out of it. The center section is offset 1.125" to the passenger side. Do most people take the same amount out of both tubes? Any reason I wouldn't want to take 5.125" drivers/2.875" pass. to center it?


For bracing- truss or back brace? I'm leaning toward the back brace because from my measurements the spring perches are going to be pretty close to the center section...making for a pretty short truss.


You would be fine centering it, I think the only thing that matters is preventing the drive shaft from being perfectly straight at ride.

I like the back braces, pretty common in racecars.

[stx4wheeler]

be carefull when welding a back or any truss on to much heat and you will warp the whole axle some there is a good thread on fullsize bronco on building a trussed nine ill see if i can find it.

[jerryg79]

be carefull when welding a back or any truss on to much heat and you will warp the whole axle some there is a good thread on fullsize bronco on building a trussed nine ill see if i can find it.

all one sentence!

[85cj7]

I measure the amc 20 the drivers side is 25" and the pass. is 26.5". So total length is 51.5" from flange to flange. I'm going to make the 9" the same dimensions.

I have wired wheeled the entire thing. Measured for where I am going to chop it, and removed shock/spring mounts.

I also order this truss today. For how cheap it was I couldn't resist.
http://www.nineinchracing.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ALL68330

I'm going to get the alignment pucks and rod from Creighton, and Flem has some left over moser bearing ends from his build that I'm getting from him.

These are the plans for the 9" shave.
http://www.alaska4x4network.com/showthread.php?t=9104

[mudtoy67]

12 gauge seems kinda light for that back brace...though I'm not sure what Moser uses.

Interesting idea on dipping it in water. I guess it works.:D

What's your timeline on ordering your case? I'm going to use the case that came with it for now, but in order to use Creighton's jig I'd have to get pucks made for the 2.892" OD bearings. If I could borrow your case for setup it would save me some trouble.

[85cj7]

I'm only using the case to brace the housing while welding the truss and to check for clearance while shaving it. Other than that I don't need it. I'll sell you everything but the housing for $75?

[mudtoy67]

Actually, I was referring to the Strange case you're going to get. Creighton only has the pucks to fit the 3.25" bearing OD aftermarket case. If I could use yours then I wouldn't need to make pucks for the small bearing.


As for the other stuff...I'd give you 40 bucks.;)

[robertf03]

why would you buy 3.25 setup pucks? I'd use the ****tiest case possible for a jig.

[AggieTJ2007]

they were rediculously cheap

[85cj7]

Humor me, but, I assume I need the new case to use the alignment pucks and rod. Do the pucks just take the place of the carrier bearings?

[mudtoy67]

Ya, the pucks will replace your carrier bearings. To use Creighton's jig you'll either have to use the new case with 3.25" OD carrier bearings (assuming that's what you're getting) or you (we) will have to get a set of pucks made for the small bearing case that came with our axles. Just for planning...you may want to measure your carrier bearing race OD. There were two sizes stock - 2.892" and 3.063".

[mudtoy67]

I also order this truss today. For how cheap it was I couldn't resist.
http://www.nineinchracing.com/proddetail.asp?prod=ALL68330



12 gauge seems kinda light for that back brace...though I'm not sure what Moser uses.



I talked to moser. The guy couldn't give a definite answer, but was sure that the material they use was less than 1/8" thick.

[85cj7]

i finished the shave, I'll get some pics up in a minute

[73bronco]

make sure you put some lotion on that, dont wanna get razor burn

[85cj7]

I think this will work. . .
http://s406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/9%20in%20build/?albumview=slideshow

[J Cooper]

wait i just looked at this thread

ryan-
giving up on the other axles already? why? have you even broken anything yet? or anything that is not free to replace?

[85cj7]

wait i just looked at this thread

ryan-
giving up on the other axles already? why? have you even broken anything yet? or anything that is not free to replace?

kinda, I'm confortable running 35s on it, but the future looks like 37s, and the 9" will be more than up to the task. Also, if i'm going to change over anyways i'd rather not blow the amc 20 up and not be able to sell it for anything. If i keep it in nice shape than I can recoup half the price of building the 9".

[85cj7]

I think this will work. . .
http://s406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/9%20in%20build/?albumview=slideshow

edit: I plated it with 3/8". With this done the 9" will have 0.5" better ground clearance than a d-30!

[mudtoy67]

Glad you made this thread. I started my 9" build today too.
F-150 housing
Narrowed to stock cj width
Big Bearing Ends
Currie nodular third member
Moser Engineering 35 spline shafts and spool
4.11 gears
Trussed/Shaved
8.8 brakes
Pinion guard

My housing doesn't taper so I can't help you there sorry.
I'll either going to re-use the ends or get some from flem.
I'm hoping to get the alignment pucks and rod from creighton, who I heard had has them now.
I'm not sure what kind of truss I want to do either. Im thinking rear facing instead of on top because of the complications of spring perches and antiwrap bar brackets.

I just tore mine apart today, it was from a '82 f-150, had 31 spline shafts, crappy a$$ drum brakes and 2.97 gears in the thirdmember. All of which I'll be selling.


Sounds like what you're wanting to build...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=761577&highlight=ford

[AggieTJ2007]

if you haven't ordered parts that it a deal, you will spend almost that much on the parts, only about $350 more

[85cj7]

I don't think so, its not the right width. So I would still have to chop it, get new ends, and custom shafts. Thats $1600-$1700 + shipping when its all done. I can do the whole thing myself for $1400.
These are the parts I was thinking. They might not be as high quality as moser but there still a d*ck load strong.
gears
http://completeoffroad.com/i-123351-ford-9-gear-install-kit-package-deal-yg.html
3rd member
http://completeoffroad.com/i-122809-n-case-9-currie-race-3-25-ford-9-inch-ford-9-yp-dof9-2-325.html
Spool
http://completeoffroad.com/i-123604-spool-35-spline-ford-9-inch-yp-fs9-35.html

[mudtoy67]

Sounds like it's just the 3rd member.

If you're not going to go moser stuff, go talk to Jonathon at Eaker Performance. He sells a lot of 9" stuff and can get you everything you need.

[85cj7]

yah i think so too. If it was the entire axle, i would still have the problem of it being too wide.

[mudtoy67]

I don't think so, its not the right width. So I would still have to chop it, get new ends, and custom shafts. Thats $1600-$1700 + shipping when its all done. I can do the whole thing myself for $1400.
These are the parts I was thinking. They might not be as high quality as moser but there still a d*ck load strong.
gears


yah i think so too. If it was the entire axle, i would still have the problem of it being too wide.

Sometimes I really don't follow your train of thought. So that one on pirate is a good deal or not? What does a chunk have to do with axle width?:laughing:







I said chunk just for you Fred...it just takes less work to type:flipoff2:

[85cj7]

No, not a good deal for just the third. If it was the entire axle it would be a good deal, but not for me sense it hasn't been narrowed.

[73bronco]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&item=380104640290

[AggieTJ2007]

you are forgetting that with that nine case, you need to get a pinion support too,
unless you are going to use a stock pinion support (dumb if you are going to spend the money on a N case)

make sure the bearings you order are for 3.25 carrier bearings, also I would get a preload spacer and shims instead of the crush sleave.

You might check out this case
http://www.jegs.com/p/Strange+Engineering/751582/10002/-1
I am going to use these parts
http://www.jegs.com/i/Strange+Engineering/873/N1906/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Richmond+Gear/836/69-0068-1/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Richmond+Gear/836/83-1005-1/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Strange+Engineering/873/D1555/10002/-1


Other parts you need

http://www.jegs.com/i/Strange+Engineering/873/N1915/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Strange+Engineering/873/N1925/10002/-1

Great deal on gears
http://www.jegs.com/p/Superior+Axles/1130518/10002/-1

[mudtoy67]

I thought Superior was one of those "take a chance" brands?

[AggieTJ2007]

don't know but they are cheap

[mudtoy67]

Looking at my axle today...not sure if I should be concerned about this. Looks like with the rust the ubolts rubbed a small groove in the housing. It's not terribly deep, but once the housing is narrowed it will only be about 3 inches from the housing end and may see a bit more stress than it was. What do yall think?

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2431.jpg

[Seth]

run it and see. chances are you will never have to do anything more.

[JB]

What do yall think?

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2431.jpg


I think you need to cut your fingernails
:flipoff2:

[Busa]

This is what my rear 9 cost me.

Stock 9 housing $50
Strange 9 case $240 P#N2206
Pinion Support $90
1350 Pinion Yoke $90
5.13 gears $170
Detroit $550
Install Kit $150
About $150 to have the gears set up
35 spline shafts $425
Then whatever brakes you will run.

If you go with a Spider housing the you can add 500 for the hosing and about 100 for new end from Currie. If you get the right ends the 8.8 brake will bolt right up. So about 2500 and you have a great axle for years to come.

You may have said, but why do yo wont to go 57 wms to wms. I made mine at 65 and had to put wheel spacer on the front to get a turning radius with 40's. With the steering setup i have i have 41dg of steering.

[mudtoy67]

I'm going 57" WMS to match the FJ front. I want to keep it narrow for now, plus I'd have to have ~4" spacers on each side to match a full width rear. I have thought about using new ends to have the correct pattern for the 8.8 brakes, but I'm still investigating 6 lug brake options.

I'm toying with ideas on the diff also. My original thought was to keep it cheap and weld the spiders. Lately though I've been seeing 31 spline full spools come up for sale around $50. Does anyone know if spools have the splines all the way through or just in the area where the spiders would have been? In centering the housing I would end up with two different length axle shafts, meaning having to carry two spares. The difference is only 1-1/8", so if the splines on a spool are all the way through I could run two "short side" shafts and only carry one...or I could still carry two (better to buy in pairs anyway) and be ready in case the same side breaks twice.

[mudtoy67]

I think you need to cut your fingernails
:flipoff2:


Thanks mom, I'll get right on that.:flipoff2:

[Busa]

Both my rear shafts or the same length. It you have and ofset pinion the you can make both of them the same lenght. I have 6lug on mine. Just used cheve caliper and roter and welded a bracket on. But think about the what you are gong to do in the front latter. Tire size steering. You may wont to go wider in ther rear now. Find a complet rearend for about 100 put get new shaft and do your brakes and run it for now. Upgrade latter if you dont have the money right now. The key is getting to wheel. If you have to go with new shafts do the 35 spline not much more and a spool. Then latter all you need is a center section. wheel spacer on the front and you are good. Troy ran a stock center for a long time. Or run the stock shaft and have them drilled to 6 lug and weld up the spider gear. You can maybe do all that right now for less than 500.

[mudtoy67]

The key is getting to wheel.

I wish somebody would have told me this before I started chopping my rig up.:laughing::flipoff2:

You make a good point on looking to the future. It would be wise to go ahead and upgrade to 35 spline if I'm buying axles anyway. I think though even at 31 spline the 9 inch will probably be stonger than the FJ front. I may put an upgraded set of birfs up front, but I don't see going much further than that. For me, if it's time for chromo Longfields it's probably time for 60s.

[Busa]

Scott has the upgraded front FJ axle and has had very little problems with it.

[mudtoy67]

Oh yeah, his have definitely seen abuse. I'm just saying at $700 a set you could almost pick up a Dana 60.

[Busa]

yes but that only gets you 30 spline outer. You still have steering and brakes and what every it takes to make the gear the same. Easy 1500 when said and done.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I think you need to cut your fingernails
:flipoff2:


:laughing:


Just throw a little weld in those grooves from the u-bolts and clean it up.

[mudtoy67]

yes but that only gets you 30 spline outer. You still have steering and brakes and what every it takes to make the gear the same. Easy 1500 when said and done.

But it's also full width. Just ask Coop how easy it is to almost kill someone using wheel spacers. :gigem:

[J Cooper]

But it's also full width. Just ask Coop how easy it is to almost kill someone using wheel spacers. :gigem:

:gigem:
even if you check them every day... maybe it was O.E.


i would not worry about the grooves
look at my axle from chopping off random crap that was welded on previously
i dont think its going to snap the tube or anything

[Eckert]

But it's also full width. Just ask Coop how easy it is to almost kill someone using wheel spacers. :gigem:

do what are you at now? stock FJ with mini knuckles?

$700 and your done of the front axle. another 2 grand later you can have a 60.

[mudtoy67]

do what are you at now? stock FJ with mini knuckles?



What?:confused2

[Busa]

I have wheel spacer and have not had any problem with it. If they are put on right you should have no problem. A 60 will still be wider then a ford 9. I think a front 60 is like 69wms to wms. A ford9 is 65. You can get a ford 9 from a van that is 68 i thinks.

It all depends on how bad you wont to wheel. If you have the money build good axle front and rear and never worry about them again. If not do what you can closes to what you wont in the end and upgarde as you go. It is not that hard to change center in a ford 9. also the tubes on the ford 9 are thinner than the 60. Should be ok if your not going to drive it like Scott or I. If you wont to change the housing i picked one up the other day for 50 just the housing.

[bcolman]

i have been running spacers since i bought my blazer and haven't had any problems either, i just check them when ever i have the front tires off to make sure they are still tight

[Eckert]

What?:confused2

WMS on your front axle, since the thought of full width axles in in the mix.

[mudtoy67]

I have wheel spacer and have not had any problem with it. If they are put on right you should have no problem. A 60 will still be wider then a ford 9. I think a front 60 is like 69wms to wms. A ford9 is 65. You can get a ford 9 from a van that is 68 i thinks.

It all depends on how bad you wont to wheel. If you have the money build good axle front and rear and never worry about them again. If not do what you can closes to what you wont in the end and upgarde as you go. It is not that hard to change center in a ford 9. also the tubes on the ford 9 are thinner than the 60. Should be ok if your not going to drive it like Scott or I. If you wont to change the housing i picked one up the other day for 50 just the housing.

Honestly, I know there are options out there that could probably get this rig on the trail more quickly, and after 4 years of not driving my own rig I'm definitely getting restless. I guess my thinking is originally I threw a rig together to get on the trail, but never had a rig I was particularly proud of. This time I'm trying to build something I can be proud of, while keeping somewhat of a budget, even if it keeps me from the trail for a few more years (or decades as it's looking now :D).

"close to what you want in the end and upgrade as you go" is kind of what I'm shooting for with this axle.


WMS on your front axle, since the thought of full width axles in in the mix.

Front axle is 57 WMS. Yes, stock FJ and will have mini knuckles with my original disk parts from spindle out. Right now my plans for the rig are to keep my width about the same and wheelbase at about 105". I'm planning on 36" or so tires. When the day comes that I feel the need to join the big boys at 40"+ then I may entertain the full width idea a little more.

[mudtoy67]

This is what my rear 9 cost me.

Stock 9 housing $50
Strange 9 case $240 P#N2206
Pinion Support $90
1350 Pinion Yoke $90
5.13 gears $170
Detroit $550
Install Kit $150
About $150 to have the gears set up
35 spline shafts $425
Then whatever brakes you will run.



Thinking about costs I realized I haven't attempted at putting together the cost of building this axle...


Stock 9 housing $free
4.56 gears ~$100
No Install Kit - use original bearings, buy new seal
Full Spool $55
Set up gears myself
Back brace $50
Custom shafts ~$350
Maybe upgrade pinion yoke?
Brakes $?

So right now I'm looking at about $550 plus the cost of the brakes, so maybe $650 when it's done?

[Shaggy]

I wish somebody would have told me this before I started chopping my rig up.:laughing::flipoff2:


Tell me about it

[mudtoy67]

Picked up a full spool for $50. I figure if I'm going to be spending the extra bucks on alloy shafts I don't want to take a chance on welded spiders grenading.

I've changed my mind and decided to take an equal amount off of each tube instead of centering the center section. This way I can keep equal length axle shafts and not have to carry two different length spares.

Sharpe...has that axle jig found its way into your truck for a ride to CS yet?:D

[AggieTJ2007]

no he hasn't been down here yet, I can get it up there at the begining of June

[Sharpe]

I'm coming down this weekend dammit!

[AggieTJ2007]

allright stop by tomorrow during the day

[Sharpe]

Will be chasing turkeys around tomorrow. You gonna be home sunday?

[Eckert]

Will be chasing turkeys around tomorrow. You gonna be home sunday?

check on the bolt pattern:gigem:

[TMatheaus]

Will be chasing turkeys around tomorrow. You gonna be home sunday?

how much longer is turkey season open for

[AggieTJ2007]

yeah ill be around sunday

[Sharpe]

how much longer is turkey season open for

This is the last weekend down here. Two more weeks in the north zone.

[mudtoy67]

Anyone know a good fill plug/cap to use? Originally I had wanted to use one of these http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/85282/10002/-1 but $22 is a bit more than I wanted to spend on a fill cap, and I haven't seen one that style any cheaper.

Ballistic sells a fill plug that is just a 1/2" NPT plug for $4.99 which would be fine, but they also want $11 to ship the damn thing. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Weld-in-fill-plug_p_1593.htmlI know I can pick up a plug like that for $1 at lowes, but I don't know where to get the bung. Anyone know of a better idea? I know I can still use the original fill plug, but I want something on the back of the housing that I can stick a hose in and drain the axle as well.

[Doug Krebs]

Anyone know a good fill plug/cap to use? Originally I had wanted to use one of these http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/85282/10002/-1 but $22 is a bit more than I wanted to spend on a fill cap, and I haven't seen one that style any cheaper.

Ballistic sells a fill plug that is just a 1/2" NPT plug for $4.99 which would be fine, but they also want $11 to ship the damn thing. http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Weld-in-fill-plug_p_1593.htmlI know I can pick up a plug like that for $1 at lowes, but I don't know where to get the bung. Anyone know of a better idea? I know I can still use the original fill plug, but I want something on the back of the housing that I can stick a hose in and drain the axle as well.

There is a local plumbing supply place here that sells mild steel nipples. I always used the ****ty cast one's from lowes before I found these. You can either cut them in half or just recess them in.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I thought lowes/HD carried blackpipe.

[BMFScout]

Spend the $16 and get back to work on something else. I'm all for building it cheap and not wasting money on something you can build, but if you spend half a saturday trying to find the damn thing is it really worth it. Ever figure out what you make an hour these days? You're worth more than that BDR! I struggle with this and my dad when he spends half a saturday restoring a wheel barrow or some other such nonsense. I'm like, just go buy a new wheel barrow, you have enough money dammit!

[Doug Krebs]

I thought lowes/HD carried blackpipe.

It's still cast ****. The nipples that this plumbing place has are clearly machined from raw stock.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I will have to look at our stuff again, I didn't think it was. I just kind of figured it was some type of tubing that had been cut to length and threaded. It just didn't look like regular galvanized fittings.

ass :flipoff2:

[J Cooper]

did sharpe ever make it by?

i have to go down next weekend for a wedding if there is a delivery needed

[Sharpe]

Yah I gots the goods.

[mudtoy67]

Thanks Sharpe...I'll try to get with you this week. I may take a day or two off for an axle buildathon.:D

[85cj7]

Anyone want the whole axle I have. 31 spline shafts, 2.97 gears, case is open, drum brakes, shaved housing?

Or does anyone need any Moser big bearing ends?

Send me a pm if so.

[mudtoy67]

Hmmm....

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2454.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2452.jpg

This seems like it was meant to be.:D

The OD of the d44 tube is just right to fit inside the 9inch tube. The d44 axle uses the same U399A timken bearing and has the same diameter seal surface, so I can use the original isuzu parts on the 9inch axle without having some one-off oddball bearing/seal. Rotors are already six lug so no redrilling, plus they are vented whereas the Ford 8.8s are not. The only downside is that the backing plate is captured by the axle retainer. This means that my spare axles would have to have loaded backing plates on them. Or I would have to carry spare bearing retaining rings, knock the bearing off the broken axle to get the backing plate off, then put the backing plate on the new axle with the new retainer ring.

See the comparison of the retainers below...

What do yall think?

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2456.jpg

[robertf03]

If you can make that work it would be cool. is the distance from the bearing shoulder to the wheel mounting surface the same on a 9" and isuzu dana 44? I'm thinking theres a few more measurements you need to take before ruling out custom axle shafts.

[tigweld]

all the nines that I have seen that had factory brakes, the backing plate is captured by the bearing that is what holds the axles in. factory ford standoff is usually 2 3/16" that is distance from wms to bearing flange face I thought most 44's had less.

[mudtoy67]

If you can make that work it would be cool. is the distance from the bearing shoulder to the wheel mounting surface the same on a 9" and isuzu dana 44? I'm thinking theres a few more measurements you need to take before ruling out custom axle shafts.

I haven't measured yet but just eyeballing it I do believe the isuzu has less bearing shoulder to wms. I've pretty much decided to get custom shafts anyway. By the time I pay shipping for the stock shafts to/from Mosier I might as well dish out the extra cash and get a stronger axle.


all the nines that I have seen that had factory brakes, the backing plate is captured by the bearing that is what holds the axles in. factory ford standoff is usually 2 3/16" that is distance from wms to bearing flange face I thought most 44's had less.

What I mean by captured is that the backing plate is between the retainer and the axle flange. So in order from tube out:

9 inch - tube, backing plate, retaining plate, axle flange

isuzu 44 - tube, retaining plate, backing plate, axle flange

There's no way to get the backing plate off without removing the wheel bearing from the shaft. And it doesn't look like I can use the same studs if I was to not use a backing plate because the studs press into the backing plate.

Did you mean 2-3/8"? I say that because everyone who does the 8.8 brake conversion has to put a 1/8" spacer on the axle flange or get custom shafts because the 8.8 is 2-1/2" brake spacing. This is also the approximate measurement I got on mine. I'm about 90% sure I'm going with custom shafts, in which case I'll get them machined to the isuzu spacing. If I do happen to go with resplined originals I don't think the difference is too large so I could probably get the shoulder reworked back to meet the isuzu spec.

[mudtoy67]

Pucks

2- 2.892" carrier pucks
1- 2.875" D44 end puck

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSC00131.jpg

[AggieTJ2007]

sweetness

[mudtoy67]

Ya, so Ryan's housing is definitely not going to work. Evidently Ford 9" doesn't always mean 9". The ring gear from that axle was a numerically lower ratio, and the ring actually measures ~8-3/8". Ryan fabbed the skid according to his ring. So when I put my 3rd in it contacts the skid with about 1/2" to go.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2461.jpg

[Eckert]

so this talk about it having more clearance than a D30 is poppy(ock?

[AggieTJ2007]

add a small notch made of some square tubing to give you just enough clearance

[mudtoy67]

so this talk about it having more clearance than a D30 is poppy(ock?

No, I think that because the ring was smaller Ryan went didn't realize he was going further. It will still have a lot more clearance...I'm just gonna say it has more clearance than a stock Ford 9. :D


add a small notch made of some square tubing to give you just enough clearance

Square tube would have to hang down lower than the outside of the skid to work. I'd rather just start over.

[Seth]

So what is that pic of?

[mudtoy67]

skidmarks :laughing:

That's the skid on the inside...the mark is where the ring rubs.

[AggieTJ2007]

yeah have the notch hang down, or start over not to bid of a deal, I am sure that you can add a little on to the skid and make it hang down a little,

I love mine in the front, the ground clearance is rediculous,

[85cj7]

Sorry bdr, No, I didn't know that. I knew the ring gears got thicker as they got numerically higher but I didn't know the overall diamter changed. Huh? If I had known that I wouldn't have sold it to you. Sorry again, Hope you can still make something happen. Good luck.

[mudtoy67]

Sorry bdr, No, I didn't know that. I knew the ring gears got thicker as they got numerically higher but I didn't know the overall diamter changed. Huh? If I had known that I wouldn't have sold it to you. Sorry again, Hope you can still make something happen. Good luck.

No big deal. :)

[85cj7]

BDR?
http://lsjc.org/board/showthread.php?t=41752

[AggieTJ2007]

rockwell parts would make a killer 14bolt rockwell hybrid front axle