1994 Land...uh...Cruiser?

[Graystroke]

Found this gem on Craigslist. It was in the Barrio. It took me about 15 minutes to decipher what the person was saying as to where it was. It was off Seminary Dr. just off of I-35W. Rough Area. I brought back-up.

Anyways, truck is a little rough and needs a Pass front CV (Birfield?). I was about to walk when I spied the little dial to the left of the steering column. Suddenly the value of this thing doubled. :D Berta was asking $1500, I countered $800, we settled on $1000.

It had some kick ass air freshener in it. Black Ice...or cheap aftershave.

I plan on getting rid of the front bumper for a trusty ARB and then fabbing up something for the rear...I would buy something but they are like $2000.

Needs tires, seat covers, and some other stuff. A/C blows nice and cold and the radio works.


Trip to get it was a major PITA!
Drove to granbury to get trailer. On way back hear noise...sounds like metal dragging. I think blowout. Stop, look at tires and they are all good. I think maybe jack fell down and flipped back up?.. Find/See nothing, Keep on trucking.

I get to the barrio and open one of the ramp pockets. No ramp! FAWK!!! FAWK!!!! FAWK!!! (right then I have a flashback of metal noise I heard on the way up there, that noise now strangely sounded like a ramp dragging down the road and flying off into a ditch somewhere!) Open other ramp pocket...No RAMP!!!! FAAAAAAWK!
Look up in there and one ramp is gone the other is wedged between front and back axle! Get one ramp out, use rocks and other mexican goodies to create second ramp to winch it up on trailer.
Go to my house dump cruiser. hear hissing noise. bad leak in new trailer tire. change tire for spare. drive back to granbury and luckily found ramp on the side of the road where I heard the noise!

[Graystroke]

couple of more
this is the worst air freshener ever!


neat little knob on the dash!:D

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I was about to walk when I spied the little dial to the left of the steering column. Suddenly the value of this thing doubled. :D

Do tell, what does said dial indicate?

I take it the CB was not still installed when you got there?

[KrazyKarl02]

Sweet deal.

[Graystroke]

Do tell, what does said dial indicate?


are you fo reals?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Yes I was, but there was only the original post and I never refreshed the page and saw the second set of pictures that I see now. ;)


:flipoff2:

[FJAggie07]

AWESOME Find!!! Nice FZJ80 project!

[Graystroke]

i need a cv (birfirfield) anybody have one that will work?

also what kind of t-case is in these? center diff w/ viscous coupling or what? what is the ECT button for on the dash?

[jerryg79]

i need a cv (birfirfield) anybody have one that will work?

also what kind of t-case is in these? center diff w/ viscous coupling or what? what is the ECT button for on the dash?

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225274


It changes the shift points in the tranny. If activated, the tranny will shift at higher RPMs giving you more "power" when passing or towing.

ECT = Electronically controlled transmission?

[FJAggie07]

i need a cv (birfirfield) anybody have one that will work?

also what kind of t-case is in these? center diff w/ viscous coupling or what? what is the ECT button for on the dash?

ECT, should have a power and snow mode that changes your shift points.

IH8MUD.com http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/

Whole section on 80 Series stuff.

Longfield for $295... http://longfieldsuperaxles.com/

OR Go to the Junkyard and pull one.

[FJAggie07]

Yeah the T-Case is Constant AWD with a Center diff lock button somewhere to make it true 4WD.

[Eckert]

there is a pass side birfield sitting down at the pick-n-pull in san antone.

other than that, goodluck.

[Graystroke]

there is a pass side birfield sitting down at the pick-n-pull in san antone.

other than that, goodluck.


that's what I need...scott was saying that 80 stuff is different from mini truck.

[Graystroke]

ECT, should have a power and snow mode that changes your shift points.

IH8MUD.com http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/

Whole section on 80 Series stuff.

Longfield for $295... http://longfieldsuperaxles.com/

OR Go to the Junkyard and pull one.

what about the ones I have seen for $70?

I've been surfing the 80 series section for a while...I just hate looking for stuff. I figured i could ask here and not get flamed :)

[Graystroke]

Yeah the T-Case is Constant AWD with a Center diff lock button somewhere to make it true 4WD.

doesn't have diff lock button...from what I've read it automatically locks when you put it in low range. Which it isn't from what I have tried. it could be sticking. Probably just like a rover in that if you don't use diff lock it gets stuck.

read there is a way to overide ABS stuff and be able to control diff lock in both high and low.
switch is available at sleeoffroad.com $60 wonder if I can get it cheaper somewhere?

[Graystroke]

I guess I need one like this b/c I have ABS

http://www.jtoutfitters.com/birfield-joint-axle-fj80-fzj80-land-cruiser-p-1358.html

[Seth]

wheelin rig?

[uglyota]

I can't imagine that disabling ABS is any more difficult than pulling the ABS fuse like people like to do in Subarus. Or put a switch on that circuit.

Birfs are different for 80s. Pull it apart first and make sure that's the problem.

and sweet find...my offer stands to take it for everything you've got in it. I'll even pay mileage and an hour of hazard pay to go the hood to get it :D

[Eckert]

i dont think the birfs are any different. i know to use highsteer arms you use the ABS hole.

longfield can rebuild birfs too.

[uglyota]

guess Bobby's calling out suckers at $90 a pop then. And I swore his page used to be toyotasuperaxles.com?

[Graystroke]

why are these so cheap?
http://www.trail-gear.com/birfield.html

[Graystroke]

I can't imagine that disabling ABS is any more difficult than pulling the ABS fuse like people like to do in Subarus. Or put a switch on that circuit.


you don't have to disable ABS...something on how if the if you select the locker it turns off the ABS and then the ABS changes the shift pattern in the tranny?

they are all connected somehow. The diff lock switch lets you lock the center diff in high range. which you can't do the way it is stock. they could have learned some pointers from rover in this realm. my RR is set up to where you just push the lever over any speed. I have locked hi/lo and unlocked hi/lo

edit here is the mod:
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/80centerdifflock.php

[Graystroke]

it has a factory toyota phone! fancy! I wonder if you can make it work w/ regular cell phone...don't those old car phones have kick ass reception?

[Graystroke]

i dont think the birfs are any different. i know to use highsteer arms you use the ABS hole.

longfield can rebuild birfs too.

then why are they listed separate? I need a shoulder on it to change over the ABS tone ring

[BMFScout]

they could have learned some pointers from rover in this realm. my RR is set up to where you just push the lever over any speed. I have locked hi/lo and unlocked hi/lo[/url]

sounds like you should have bought another land rover then! :flipoff2:

[davido]

Cool find.

[redcagepatrol]

i dont think the birfs are any different. i know to use highsteer arms you use the ABS hole.

longfield can rebuild birfs too.

They are VERY different, the FJ-80's are much bigger - hence that's why I have an FJ-80 axle under the Patrol. I have comparison pics someplace but don't feel like looking for them...

[robertf03]

I think spline count on the axle shaft side is different too, no?

[redcagepatrol]

yes, the minitruck shafts are 28 spline and the FJ-80 are 26 I think.

[Eckert]

i knew the birf size was different, i was referring to the abs/non abs. which is why you cant run mini knuckles on a 80 housings.

[robertf03]

can you knock the ring off of the birf or grind the swivel pins to make it fit?

[uglyota]

maybe try these guys for a used birf too: http://www.classiccruisers.com/

[Graystroke]

cool, I'll give them a call

[Graystroke]

Took off the Pass side hub tonight. I found the problem. broken/busted CV Joint.
So my theory is the CV is bad the T-case CDL won't lock for lack of use (probably never used), therefore the diffs won't lock and the Viscous coupling is shot.
this is why it would barely move and roll in park...w a center diff in the t-case it is like spinning one wheel in the mud in an open diff. the front and rear drive shafts are essentially like axle shaft out of an open diff. then you get to another open diff in the front and rear axles. then the torque will find it's way out. In my case it was all going to the broken CV. And when the PO put in park all the park dog torque went to the broken CV and the truck would roll.

No big deal about the Viscous coupling...I've read you can actually remove it and it will not change performance once you install a manual CDL lock-up switch. Not real great performing even when they are working. Evidently it takes quite a bit of wheel spin for them to kick in.
Once I do the CDL switch mod it will be able to lock in high and low like a rover.

Speaking of rovers it was de-ja vu working on the pig. weird sway bar set-up, closed knuckles, 4 pot calipers w/ pins holding the pads on the brakes, same dust shields etc. and hub set-up. easy to work on.

someone had been in here before. what's the consensus on replacing the swivel (trunion?) bearings? anybody know what the spring pull should be on the swivels once they are shimed properly?

what kind of grease do I use? I was thinking about using the rover one shot grease. It's semi liquid. eric says the swivel seals suck at holding back any kind of liquid and just pack them w/ axle grease. rover swivels are designed to hold back 90 wt (at least when they are new). if i put in new swivel seals and put in that one shot stuff would it leak out?

here's a pic of the mess. there wasn't a single ball in the bell. looks like ring (lip) broke off the bell

[Eckert]

just just regular axle/tub grease like eric said. do not use 90wt oil or whatever one shot is. be sure to pack the birfs too.

your rover terms confuse me, i had to read it 3 times to figure it out.

[Graystroke]

they are the "right" terms since they designed it first, right? what's confusing? those are pretty generic terms. cv= constant velocity joint, swivel is the thing that swivels back and forth, swivel bearings are what hold the swivel and help it rotate, CDL=center diff lock
here's the grease
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/cart/product.php?productid=18676&cat=263&page=1
I'm gonna double check the axle grease thing b/c these joints are full time. what keeps it from leaking out once the heat up @ 80mph. I can see "packing" them in a part-time truck that is crawling along at 1 mph

[robertf03]

I think the bells are welded on and they use split pieces of felt to seal the knuckle and bell. Thats not going to hold gear oil. That one shot stuff sucks if its colder than 80 degrees outside. I think I've got 130 weight or something ridiculous in mine. going to switch to grease next time its apart.

Are you sure there is a CDL in the transfercase?

rover switched to real grease sometime in end of the run of the closed knuckle axle. I think my 97 might not even be drililed for a fill plug.

[Graystroke]

Are you sure there is a CDL in the transfercase?


yes, it has to have one...has diff locks

it's one of those trucks that is set-up for "4wd for dummies"

here's how it is suppose to work:
4hi- open center diff and viscous coupling (basically a limited slip for front to rear bias)
4lo- when you select low on the t-case lever it trips a relay that elctronically locks the t-case w/ some kind of solenoid.
the lever also tells the ABS to turn off and also allows the front and rear diffs to be locked once the t-case shows to be locked (has indicator light)..mine isn't coming on.

[Graystroke]

I think the bells are welded on and they use split pieces of felt to seal the knuckle and bell. Thats not going to hold gear oil. That one shot stuff sucks if its colder than 80 degrees outside. I think I've got 130 weight or something ridiculous in mine. going to switch to grease next time its apart.



the stuff in the swivel looked like one shot grease... probably failed inner axle seal w/ 90 wt mixed in?

swivels housings are welded. I dunno if they are two pc or not. would make sense seeing how you couldn't get them off.

[robertf03]

yeah, probably. You should see the mess that 1 shot and 90wt makes. 1 shot is probably the grossest auto fluid out there. You can't get it off of wheels once a hub seal goes.

is the light activated by the switch on the shifter, or is there a sensor that tells you when the cdl is engaged?

[Eckert]

they are the "right" terms since they designed it first, right? what's confusing? those are pretty generic terms. cv= constant velocity joint, swivel is the thing that swivels back and forth, swivel bearings are what hold the swivel and help it rotate, CDL=center diff lock
here's the grease
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/cart/product.php?productid=18676&cat=263&page=1
I'm gonna double check the axle grease thing b/c these joints are full time. what keeps it from leaking out once the heat up @ 80mph. I can see "packing" them in a part-time truck that is crawling along at 1 mph

rover invented the closed knuckle axle?

anyways, swivel=knuckle(i think?) thats what got me.

the felt seal isnt 2 piece, the bracket that holds it is.

i also think the hubs are identical to the other solid axle yotas, so if you wanted, you could run lock-outs. and sell the drive flanges.

[robertf03]

I think some dude named Rzeppa invented it. Rzeppa at one point worked for Ford, Ford at one point owned Land Rover. So yes, Rover did invent the closed knuckle ;)

edit: looks like GKN, a British company, bought the rights from Ford/Rzeppa and manufactured "Birfield" stamped CV joints under the name Hardy Spicer and supplied Toyota.

Guess who else they supplied?


swivels are basically kingpins: two nubs, some bushings, and some bearings and stuff.


How do you get the felt seal on if its 1 piece? Does it stretch?

[Graystroke]

rover invented the closed knuckle axle?


no probably the 1930's FWD cord did
birfield= British...made CV joints for submarines

this thing is like an exact copy of a RR in terms of the front end. coils, Radius Arms, brakes etc. It only took Toyota 21 years to figure it out. first year for production RR was 1970 w/ this exact same suspension set-up.

[Graystroke]

is the light activated by the switch on the shifter, or is there a sensor that tells you when the cdl is engaged?


there is a detent sensor on the solenoid on the t-case. way over complicated...

move lever to select low range (actually shifts t-case)
lever hits limit switch and signals relay (tranny control module)
to lock CDL and to turn off ABS
also sends message to diff locks that they are ok for lift off

you can modify all this stuff by pulling pins and reversing polarity on the flux capacitor

[mudtoy67]

FSM calls for moly-fortified grease in the knuckles and birfs.

Here is a FAQ for FZJ80 axle rebuilding. I didn't see the knuckle preload in there, but on the older models you should have 9-12lb pull at the end of the steering arm. This could be a good baseline. Unless the knuckle bearings are in bad shape the original shims should get you to the right place. Also make sure you tap on the steering arm as you are tightening the nuts. It's outlined in the faq, but I've heard it elsewhere about the steering arm binding and not seating properly in the knuckle.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/78276-front-axle-rebuild-faq.html

[mudtoy67]

How do you get the felt seal on if its 1 piece? Does it stretch?


Yes, you kind of "roll" them onto the knuckle ball first, then install the knuckle. After the knuckle is in place you just slide them up to the back of the knuckle and bolt on the split retaining plates.

[mudtoy67]

BTW, Chris Feller is parting an 80 series...

http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=27952
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1279950107.html

[uglyota]

I'm gonna double check the axle grease thing b/c these joints are full time. what keeps it from leaking out once the heat up @ 80mph. I can see "packing" them in a part-time truck that is crawling along at 1 mph
there is nothing inside the knuckle moving 80 mph when the car is moving 80 mph. presumably you would be going straight, so the balls, cage and bell wouldn't even be moving relative to each other. They are just rotating as a solid unit.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Would the three shafts be lined up perfectly straight, or would the center shaft not have some angle to it?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Like this.

The blue being the axle shafts, the red being the CV's and the green being the upper and lower A frames.

[uglyota]

if your knuckle is set up correctly it's a straight line from the center of your wheel bearings to the center of your diff side gears. Even with the wheels turned or in your picture, nothing's really moving very fast, the balls in the joint are just kind of wiggling back and forth on the race.

[mudtoy67]

Like this.

The blue being the axle shafts, the red being the CV's and the green being the upper and lower A frames.

It's not IFS. It's just a straight axle toyota like the older pickups. Grayson's gay CV terms are confusing you.:p

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Yes, being a straight axle would be different. Damn you Grayson and your Gehyness!!

[Graystroke]

FSM calls for moly-fortified grease in the knuckles and birfs.

Here is a FAQ for FZJ80 axle rebuilding. I didn't see the knuckle preload in there, but on the older models you should have 9-12lb pull at the end of the steering arm. This could be a good baseline. Unless the knuckle bearings are in bad shape the original shims should get you to the right place. Also make sure you tap on the steering arm as you are tightening the nuts. It's outlined in the faq, but I've heard it elsewhere about the steering arm binding and not seating properly in the knuckle.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/78276-front-axle-rebuild-faq.html
sweet! that looks like a good read! thanks BDR!

[Graystroke]

there is nothing inside the knuckle moving 80 mph when the car is moving 80 mph. presumably you would be going straight, so the balls, cage and bell wouldn't even be moving relative to each other. They are just rotating as a solid unit.

i know that I just worry about it getting the grease hot and then slinging it out w/ the centrifugal force.

never mind on the grease vs. other stuff...looks like grease is the only way to go b/c anything else will leak out from what i've read on other forums. seals and knuckle are not good enough.

[Graystroke]

BTW, Chris Feller is parting an 80 series...

http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=27952
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1279950107.html

I know i bought some stuff. I got a pair of headlights and a pc of plastic for the column. thanks tho for the heads up.

[mudtoy67]

i know that I just worry about it getting the grease hot and then slinging it out w/ the centrifugal force.

never mind on the grease vs. other stuff...looks like grease is the only way to go b/c anything else will leak out from what i've read on other forums. seals and knuckle are not good enough.

Oh ya, I forgot I learned that the hard way. My first FJ I got in high school. It hadn't been run in many years so I took it to auto shop and got it running. I completely rebuilt the brake system as well. Not long after I got it home I did a little more maintenance. I saw the plug on the top of the knuckle and said hey look a fill plug! So I put about a 1/2 qt of 90 wt in each knuckle.:laughing: It was all on the ground by morning and I found myself redoing my front brakes. :homer:

[Graystroke]

Ok couple of questions. went by the yards in Fort Worth and no used birfield for an 80. Called yota jims in CO and he thought he had one and quoted me $65 on a used one, I told him I would take both. He called back and his were non ABS. crap. I called the place Eric posted they have one. He quoted me $350 for a used one. I told he was way high on his price and he said the computers were already off and he would call me back tomorrow w/ a more accurate price. I'm not holding my breath.

My plan was to get a new pass side birf and then swap sides w/ them so they would wear the other side. Read it somewhere... sounds like a good idea.
Anybody have one? Are those cheap new ones worth a damn or am I better off getting a used one? I went by the dealer and they wanted $765 for one.

Also want to do seals and and repack all the bearings etc. Who has the best rebuild kit...I don't necessarily need all new bearings...mainly just want all the seals, lock tabs, etc. Or am I better off piecing one together myself? Do yota guys use a gasket b/w the spindle and knuckle like it shows? drive flange? or do you just use permatex or something?

[robertf03]

gasket. there is an inner machined surface that the cv rides against. rtv is an unknown thickness.

[Seth]

RTV is your friend.

[Reckless]

longfields would prob be cheaper for a set and be better in the end

[Graystroke]

longfields would prob be cheaper for a set and be better in the end

yeah, but some of those state "not for highway use"....which translates to me that their machining capabilities sucks.

[jerryg79]

is the bear?

[Graystroke]

ok, guy from that place eric posted called back and said he had one. $250 and it includes the inner shaft, which in my case I need the pass side. good price?

which shaft do you break more often short or long?

[Graystroke]

^ ^
^ ^
^ ^
^ ^
toyota axles on the disco? looks like it.

[Eckert]

yeah, but some of those state "not for highway use"....which translates to me that their machining capabilities sucks.

do what? i have never heard of anyone bashing longfield because his product was poorly made.

buy some longfield shafts, hub gears, and mini truck lock-outs. and never worry about the front axle again.

[Graystroke]

do what? i have never heard of anyone bashing longfield because his product was poorly made.

buy some longfield shafts, hub gears, and mini truck lock-outs. and never worry about the front axle again.

:rolleyes:
read before you speak
http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/
scroll down and look at the FJ80 birfs

fj80= fulltime, which means it spins all the time.

which means his joint won't last

thats a dumb reason to buy lockouts...b/c someone's product can't perform

[mudtoy67]

How does "not for highway use" translate to not going to last? Sounds like an ASSumption.:flipoff2:

Have you actually called and asked why they are offroad only?

[Graystroke]

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/287969-thinking-buying-bobby-longs-longfield-read.html

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/101959-stock-birfields-vs-longfields.html

b/c chromoly is softer and they wear faster. they are designed for part time
so it's not machining, it's just the wrong material for the wrong truck and drivetrain specs

longfield says himself they aren't designed for highway...and they only would last 10k or so...dedicated off-road only
who's the ASS now!?:flipoff2:

[Eckert]

your right, your much better off paying entirely too much for stock birfs. i dont know why you would want drive flanges on something your going to drive everywhere.

[Graystroke]

your right, your much better off paying entirely too much for stock birfs. i dont know why you would want drive flanges on something your going to drive everywhere.

yeah, the design of the stock one sucks...I mean it only lasted 265,000 miles... and it must be impossible to to produce a CV thats meant to spin all the time...good thing there aren't any front wheel drive cars driving around!

[mudtoy67]

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/287969-thinking-buying-bobby-longs-longfield-read.html

http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/101959-stock-birfields-vs-longfields.html

b/c chromoly is softer and they wear faster. they are designed for part time
so it's not machining, it's just the wrong material for the wrong truck and drivetrain specs

longfield says himself they aren't designed for highway...and they only would last 10k or so...dedicated off-road only
who's the ASS now!?:flipoff2:

Hmmmm....

so first you ASSume their machining capability sucks

next you ASSume they limit their product just because it can't perform

then you actually do some research and find the real reason why they are not suggested for highway use, and you ASSume that I care:flipoff2:

You're still an ASS, just an enlightened one.:gigem:

[Graystroke]

How does "not for highway use" translate to not going to last? Sounds like an ASSumption.:flipoff2:


Let me make it simpler for you....
Because Bobby Longfield said so.

B/C I know you care deep down. :)

[mudtoy67]

Maybe if it was because STONE COLD SAID SO!!:laughing:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Austin 3:16???

[jerryg79]

Maybe if it was because STONE COLD SAID SO!!:laughing:

[\thread]

[Graystroke]

Friend if mine just sold his LC and had some left over stuff. picked up a front bumper to make it look nice until I get something better. also got a set of old man emu j springs. these are suppose to get rid of the stink bug look. other misc. stuff: sunroof deflector, and some roof rails that aren't sun faded. i gave him $50 for the springs and a case of beer for the rest.

[eight]

What you gonna do with this thing?

[Graystroke]

What you gonna do with this thing?

drive it I guess...at least till it conks out...then it's time for an LS motor swap.:D

I may sell it if I don't like it...never really driven one.

[Graystroke]

I need to start gathering rear bumper stuff. who makes a good spindle for making a swing out tire carrier? slee off-road and 4x4 labs makes them. Rockstomper has one, but there was a couple of threads about then failing. what about poly performance?

[85cj7]

http://shop.jeeptubes.com/category.sc?categoryId=9
http://www.atozfabrication.com/store/catalog/Tire-Carrier-Swingout-Heavy-Duty-Hinge-Kit-p-16138.html

[Graystroke]

thanks for the links.... anybody use the one from jeep tubes? looks Chinese...I like those smooth tube connectors they sell as well.

I want to build something similar to the ARB rear bumper. It has hidden latches and a hidden gas shock as well. pretty cool. lights are kinda cool too.
http://cruisersolutions.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=198

[uglyota]

I think I just use RTV between the spindle and knuckle. It's a really tight fit.

Short side inners break first. Length of the long side ones absorbs shock better.

I bet $250 is the best you'll find for that part. Was that from the yota yard or the place in Buena Vista?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I think I just use RTV between the spindle and knuckle. It's a really tight fit.

Short side inners break first. Length of the long side ones absorbs shock better.

I bet $250 is the best you'll find for that part. Was that from the yota yard or the place in Buena Vista?

If it was at the place in BV, maybe we can work a deal out on shipping if you can wait till next summer for it. :gigem:

[uglyota]

Why wait? You get any time off before your next gig? :D

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Why wait? You get any time off before your next gig? :D

No, I might not even make it to Clayton if things work out 'right'. :(

[uglyota]

This is not good...

[DRAGOONRANCH]

If I can make it there by mid' September like I think I will, then I should be good to go, but you never know when it comes to this stuff. The good thing is that I will be the one approving the entire crews, so I should be able to 'squeeze' mine in if I get there in time. :D

[Reckless]

Look at downey offroad. they have a shat load of toy parts

[Graystroke]

I think I just use RTV between the spindle and knuckle. It's a really tight fit.

Short side inners break first. Length of the long side ones absorbs shock better.

I bet $250 is the best you'll find for that part. Was that from the yota yard or the place in Buena Vista?

the buena vista place you posted yota yard didn't have any.

[BMFScout]

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/1313732599.html

1996 interchange?