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KrazyKarl02
01-05-2010, 12:00 AM
Frick decided the Nasty Pile needed some work

KrazyKarl02
01-05-2010, 12:02 AM
More Pictures

stx4wheeler
01-05-2010, 12:09 AM
No MORE Walking!!! Put beer in cooler that came with rig and go wheelin.

Eckert
01-05-2010, 12:10 AM
the pictures aren't worth a thousand words. explain lucy.

davido
01-05-2010, 12:35 AM
So you bought another pile?

Sharpe
01-05-2010, 12:50 AM
Whad you find out about the transmission?

stx4wheeler
01-05-2010, 01:21 AM
Alright if a mod could move the pics from Karl's thread to here that would be sweet.

My current plans after Clayton were to continue with the frickoneer. I was going to swap in a t-18/ Dana 20 combo, install tbi, mount winch, narrow, tube, and try to not make it such a turd. It was gonna cost a small fortune to do and in the end I would still have a jeep with a rusty arse frame.

While doing my normal craigslist search I found this rig/turd the verdict is still out on what to call it.

Specs:
78 half ton cab and frame
frame has been bobbed 23 inches
91 tbi 350
78 sm465
78 np 205
rear mounted radiator with dual fans
exo cage made from pipe
10 bolt front and rear with 4.88's, rear is welded
round driveshafts front and rear
dual alternators- stock new stock chevy 90 amp, and 195 amp aftermarket one
dual batterys
stock leaves in the back, 4 inch superlift fronts
setup mounts for f/r 8274
two Hella 55 watt lights
dual exhaust with flowmasters
huge 35-40 gallon tank with tbi sending unit
no flex- Thanks lift springs

Bad
No flex
Pipe Exo( plus it looks ugly)
Rusted floor boards and spots on the cab
huge fuel tank
No isolated for dual batteries
No rear brakes- ie they removed them

Things it needs to wheel the creek and other mild places
Warranty two batteries
Go to junkyard and get brakes

Oh yeah it cost less than what I have invested in the Frickoneer at this point

Fill cooler

What it

stx4wheeler
01-05-2010, 01:25 AM
Oh yeah the motor was rebuilt 4-5 years ago when he first built he truck into a wheeler. Sits on 35/16/15 boogers on 15x10 chrome wheels. Tires have varying tread from 50% to New. Wheelbase is supposedly at 101".

KrazyKarl02
01-05-2010, 08:22 AM
Truck seems to run good, engine seems to be in good shape. The TBI wiring is interesting in a good way. That was one thing I was afraid of, I did not Frick to have some chopped together harness, and while it is not a perfect harness, it is better than some hack jobs. The guy removed a steering column, computer, and engine from a 1991 suburban. He then installed the column, engine, and computer. Then the wiring harness pretty much "plugged and played". The down side is none of the dash stuff works, but on a rig like this you really just need headlights and wipers.

eight
01-05-2010, 10:29 AM
I would think you could hook up most of the dash stuff. At least you should be able to find places to stick the stock oil and coolant sensors. This is if he didn't hack that wiring off.

85cj7
01-05-2010, 11:05 AM
Sorry moved frick's thread into karl's intead of the oter way around. Still works though

KrazyKarl02
01-05-2010, 12:09 PM
I would think you could hook up most of the dash stuff. At least you should be able to find places to stick the stock oil and coolant sensors. This is if he didn't hack that wiring off.

Interestingly, the guy said a 1987 dash would bolt in place of the 78 dash and hook up to everything.

stx4wheeler
01-06-2010, 12:27 AM
more pics

http://m553.photobucket.com/albums/stx4wheeler/The%20Bastard/?pbauth=1_uLEBonVPfaLdh1h3YMYz2UQCgEii2aRSlQnpcNRA CRXsvlKGOOcFNCaRrS904SLA%2B3k42bd6sb4vPSzXYYUnjo4b 8sb5OBX%2FqN%2FAY5xNZQ2ngWtGk3E5Hv%2FVsZzff%2FAtXs kphySe929y%2BwXC8U%2BvmWZX6Ap5nAJ1uU8oDrvME%2F8%3D


Bonus stuff from behind the rear seat.
8274 winch controller, 2 tow straps without hooks, 1 large ratchet strap, wd-40, pink towel, beer cans, and 2x4 that spaces the back seat.

Sharpe
01-06-2010, 01:51 AM
The dash gauges are 1 wire hookups that are completely independent of the TBI ****. Get a coaster manual and trace wiring harnesses.

KrazyKarl02
01-06-2010, 08:30 AM
It started right up yesterday, this is a good sign!

DRAGOONRANCH
01-06-2010, 10:14 AM
more pics

http://m553.photobucket.com/albums/stx4wheeler/The%20Bastard/?pbauth=1_uLEBonVPfaLdh1h3YMYz2UQCgEii2aRSlQnpcNRA CRXsvlKGOOcFNCaRrS904SLA%2B3k42bd6sb4vPSzXYYUnjo4b 8sb5OBX%2FqN%2FAY5xNZQ2ngWtGk3E5Hv%2FVsZzff%2FAtXs kphySe929y%2BwXC8U%2BvmWZX6Ap5nAJ1uU8oDrvME%2F8%3D


Bonus stuff from behind the rear seat.
8274 winch controller, 2 tow straps without hooks, 1 large ratchet strap, wd-40, pink towel, beer cans, and 2x4 that spaces the back seat.

I am going to kick you in the junk for posting the link that leads you to 'Mobile Photobucket'. That **** is a pain in the arse to get back to normal viewing.

:flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
01-06-2010, 10:50 AM
I was wondering if that was gonna happen. I'll see if I can change the settings on my phone so it doesn't happen again.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-06-2010, 10:53 AM
You're not the first one to do it like that, so don't sweat it. :laughing:

This truck is going to be peemptackular!

agjohn02
01-06-2010, 10:59 AM
Specs:
...
round driveshafts front and rear
...


i laugh

davido
01-07-2010, 01:48 AM
"who's fruckee" ("I wanna be part of the Buster & Sharpe clan" is too long for a rig name) :flipoff2:

No flex and floorboards? Turns out you're in luck. These are NOT things that you need. Highly optional. Just get bigger tires and have your date watch his toes. :D

Looks like a fun rig though, congrats! Can't wait to see pictures bigger than my avatar.


...and Krebs called dibs on the pink towel. :rainbow:

DRAGOONRANCH
01-07-2010, 08:44 AM
"who's fruckee" ("I wanna be part of the Buster & Sharpe clan" is too long for a rig name) :flipoff2:

No flex and floorboards? Turns out you're in luck. These are NOT things that you need. Highly optional. Just get bigger tires and have your date watch his toes. :D

Looks like a fun rig though, congrats! Can't wait to see pictures bigger than my avatar.


...and Krebs called dibs on the pink towel. :rainbow:


You're just jealous of the awesomeness that is a fullsize chevy! :flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
01-07-2010, 05:03 PM
Alright I am new to the Chevy game so some info on what stuff is popular mods would be helpfull.

Immediate things that need attention:
Make the front flex better. Sharpe said that he factory leaves are 48" long and factory springs that arent worn out or have a negative arch are fairly rare. Right now it has either 4 or 6 inch lift springs. Do these springs have a centered spring pin? I am thinking about using a combo of dodge-48" 3 thick leaf pack centered pin, Waggie fronts-46" 5 leaf pack with 2" spring offset, and cj rear 44" with 6 leafs and a centered pin. Will more long leafs flex better or worse? I will also need to make a longer shackle to make up for the lift removed by the lift spring removal. Will stock springs and a longer shackle require a long slip drive shaft or will this only come when i go with chevy 52" springs?

Now for the rear I need to try and flex it out to see how bad it does flex. Right now it has a set of stock leaves that seem very stiff and thick. It also has the ghetto chevy shackle flip where someone cut a whole in the bottom of the hanger and dropped the shackle that way. How much lift roughly does this give? I would like to make or buy a Shackle flip kit. Karl was telling me there was a company selling a cut out but not welded kit to make both rear flipped hangers, but he couldnt remember the name. Has anyone heard of something like this?

How far forward can I move the front axle forward without making the push/pull steering angry? Are the rear stock springs a centered spring pin or offset, if offset how much? Thanks in advance

Sharpe
01-07-2010, 05:20 PM
Before you do anything else get rid of the push-pull steering. I see crossover kits for sale used on TX4x4 prety regularly and a brand new ORD kit isnt really that expensive. For the shackle flip, use a set of the forward rear spring hangers. That is what is on Pigpen and I have a few more sets at my shop. Rear 52" springs are center pin and 56" springs have a 4" offest pin.

colman
01-07-2010, 07:03 PM
use a set of stock rear 52's for the front spring. its what brian has and alot of other people. good flex and if you ever do break or mess up one then replacements are easy to get. it will give you 4: lift and you can grind a few rivets, move the hanger to stock holes in the frame and make the front work without to much work, rear shackle flip is 4". brian fits 40's that way, but theres trimming and bumpstops involved

FJAggie07
01-07-2010, 07:12 PM
but theres trimming and bumpstops involved

THAT'S an understatement. :laughing:

colman
01-07-2010, 07:18 PM
o and the trees in clayton 2 yrs ago helped with some of the kustom body work

bcolman
01-07-2010, 08:31 PM
since you have lack of body panels near your tires i would recommend chevy 52" springs on all 4 corners, that is what i am running and it flexes pretty good for leaf springs

stx4wheeler
01-08-2010, 12:36 AM
Alright I did some looking tonight and I figured some stuff out.
The rear is a 6 leaf pack with one huge overload. Part of the reason it doesn't flex well out back is #1 is that the shackle is very short and sits perfectly vertical at ride height, #2 on uptravel the shackle hits the hanger where they did the ghetto shackle flip and dropped it through the bottom of the hanger.

When I measured the wheelbase from center of the front hub to the center of the rear hub it was like 98", if I swap to my stock waggie 54" leaves I can get 4" more wheelbase and get a better shackle angle. If I swap to 2.5 wide 56 inch ford springs I can stretch it by 7" which would give me a great departcher(sp) angle. Or I could put in a 2" zero rate on the stock 52" rears, and call it good.

The front will take some thought since my frame has been cut off right in front of the front spring hangers.
Why don't more people run waggie rears with an offset or the 56's with the offset in the front?

Push/pul won't be taken off for a while because I don't want to change to much on here till I have had it and wheeled it for 6-8 months before changing lots of stuff.

What would I need to change the np205 for a 208 or 241 that would give me better gearing? I have the figure 8 adapter? Sorry for all the questions but I don't know much about Chevys or standards.

Eckert
01-08-2010, 12:50 AM
why not use the waggy/cherokee/whateverthefawkitis box off the nastypile along with its steering components to achieve cross over? aint it all GM **** anyways?

TexTJ209
01-08-2010, 01:02 AM
why not use the waggy/cherokee/whateverthefawkitis box off the nastypile along with its steering components to achieve cross over? aint it all GM **** anyways?

Chevy mounts their steering boxes on the wrong side of the frame. (The outside, that is.)

stx4wheeler
01-08-2010, 01:05 AM
Couple different reasons#1 is the waggie box mounts inside the frame like a ttb box, and two I have a 78 bronco box that was rebuilt and tapped for hydro by west Texas off-road. This style box mounts to the outside of the frame. If I have to change boxes I might as well use this one.


why not use the waggy/cherokee/whateverthefawkitis box off the nastypile along with its steering components to achieve cross over? aint it all GM **** anyways?

stx4wheeler
01-08-2010, 02:42 AM
Eduardo son las fotos al final del album mejor? Si or no???

DRAGOONRANCH
01-08-2010, 05:15 AM
http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/The%20Bastard/

This link works good for me.

I guess they just change the s to an m infront of the number to make it work for mobile phones and such (s553 - m553)

Use 52" springs all the way around, they have a centered pin, can be found easily/cheap and have great flex (and if you are not running monsterous tires, you may not even need a track/axlewrap bar).

Figure out what where you want your front axle, and build plate hangers like I did to get it where you want. I don't have any good pictures of it, but the truck is in aggieland so maybe they can get you pictures of what ever you need (or you can stop by and have a good excuse to make a run to the bird ;) ). Once you have your front axle where you want it, then figure out where you want the rear and move the spring hangers to the right place. ORD makes a good shackle flip kit, and DIY4x4 is the one that has them 'unassembled' (IIRC).

I have a tapped steering box, crossover/highsteer arms and a tierod w/ TRE's at the house if you want them. All from the ORD kit (other than the tierod which Doug tapped for me :D ).

stx4wheeler
01-08-2010, 07:57 AM
Yeah I changed the upload settings on mobile photobucket. The only reason some were small was because it wouldn't let me delete the old ones.

Sharpe
01-08-2010, 11:27 AM
Alright I did some looking tonight and I figured some stuff out.
The rear is a 6 leaf pack with one huge overload. Part of the reason it doesn't flex well out back is #1 is that the shackle is very short and sits perfectly vertical at ride height, #2 on uptravel the shackle hits the hanger where they did the ghetto shackle flip and dropped it through the bottom of the hanger.

When I measured the wheelbase from center of the front hub to the center of the rear hub it was like 98", if I swap to my stock waggie 54" leaves I can get 4" more wheelbase and get a better shackle angle. If I swap to 2.5 wide 56 inch ford springs I can stretch it by 7" which would give me a great departcher(sp) angle. Or I could put in a 2" zero rate on the stock 52" rears, and call it good.

The front will take some thought since my frame has been cut off right in front of the front spring hangers.
Why don't more people run waggie rears with an offset or the 56's with the offset in the front?

Look at Pigpen, I extended my frame about a foot to move my front spring hanger out. It was quite a bit of work but worked well for the few hours I got to wheel in Clayton. Plenty of people use the Chevy 56's and IMO they are easier to find these days because GM used them in all tonnage trucks in the 80s. As far as I've seen 52's were only used in 1/2 tons in the 70's and those are getting harder and harder to find. One issue with running the 56's in the front is that to keep your approach angle reasonable you need to run the short side to the front. With the longside and shackle at the rear your pinion angle gets crazy while drooping. It hasnt been a serious issue for me though.

Push/pul won't be taken off for a while because I don't want to change to much on here till I have had it and wheeled it for 6-8 months before changing lots of stuff.

This is a full ****ing FAIL. You no comprende how much push-pull sucks to try to wheel. The second your driver's tire droops more than 6" you lose all steering control, period. See, even Ed has a used setup, get that from him and save yourself the headache.

What would I need to change the np205 for a 208 or 241 that would give me better gearing? I have the figure 8 adapter? Sorry for all the questions but I don't know much about Chevys or standards.

Dont do this. A) It is impossible without a tranny output shaft swap and new adapter and B) its just dumb. Though the 208 and 241 have better gearing they are not as stong and are just plain inferior for our uses


Also, the idea of putting the Ford box on the chevy is ****ing retarded. Boxes arent that expensive and when you rip whatever kludged together adapter you come up with off the frame, everyone will hate you.

Doug Krebs
01-08-2010, 12:34 PM
I have a Dodge dana 60 with high steer and behind the axle tie rod that would be great for this! I'll throw in a 14 bolt while I'm at it!

colman
01-08-2010, 12:40 PM
plan:
get ed's steering
remove rear overload and replace bootyfab shackle flip with a good one
52's in front
dero rates on each end
narrower tires
beat it like a redheaded step child

eight
01-08-2010, 01:15 PM
I still maintain that "zero rates" are sales snake words for blocks.

agjohn02
01-08-2010, 01:47 PM
yes, please stop calling them that. it just makes you sound dumb.

bcolman
01-08-2010, 02:28 PM
sharpe, you can find 52" spring on the rear of blazers up to 1990 ish, mine is a 90 and came stock with them

Sharpe
01-08-2010, 02:33 PM
I've only ever had 1 parts truck or driver with 52's and it was a ragged out piece of **** 76 half ton. Every other one I've had, half, 3/4 or 1 ton had 56's. Also, I have no idea how they decide how to build the leaf packs. I dont think I've ever seen two that were identical in the number and thickness of leaves.

uglyota
01-08-2010, 02:54 PM
Also, I have no idea how they decide how to build the leaf packs. I dont think I've ever seen two that were identical in the number and thickness of leaves.

maybe they build them the same way we do:
stand back and squint, jump up and down on it a few times, "yeah, that should work pretty good"
then when they don't work pretty good, leave it alone anyway because leaf springs are a PITA

stx4wheeler
01-08-2010, 04:19 PM
So to get rid off the push/pul I need a different steering box to correct?

Sharpe
01-08-2010, 04:21 PM
Yes a CHEVY 2wd box

colman
01-08-2010, 11:31 PM
i have a set of 52's if you are interested

stx4wheeler
01-09-2010, 11:59 AM
I hear 10 bolts are for little girls, so I picked up a dodge 60front and ford van 60 rear with 5.86's.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-09-2010, 12:15 PM
holy crap, you gonna run 54" boggers? :eek:

:flipoff2:

DRAGOONRANCH
01-09-2010, 12:28 PM
shackle flip kit

http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=30940

Sharpe
01-09-2010, 06:32 PM
I hear 10 bolts are for little girls, so I picked up a dodge 60front and ford van 60 rear with 5.86's.

****! who am I going to sell all the 10 bolts at my shop to now!?!? :angry:

Eckert
01-09-2010, 09:06 PM
I hear 10 bolts are for little girls, so I picked up a dodge 60front and ford van 60 rear with 5.86's.

so is it a mexican abortion or not?

stx4wheeler
01-11-2010, 02:05 AM
All the parts are there but not assembled. I have discovered Dana 60 rear gold today. I will explain tomorrow after I get some sleep.

stx4wheeler
01-11-2010, 10:26 AM
Alright as we all know Dana 60 full float rears are less sought after for one ton swaps because of the 30 spline axle shafts that are stock. You can fit 35 spline shafts into the axle by boring/machining the spindle out to accomadate the larger 1.5" aftermarket shafts. Well after you buy aftermarket shafts and pay for machining as well as sourcing a new 35 spline locker or spider gears it gets expensive fast. For the money invested you are better off getting a sterling or 14bolt. Well that doesn't have to be the case.

As we all know I am really cheap, and a huge packrat. This worked out in my advantage this time. I talked with Kopecki about what all he had to do to his axle and was least than excited to do mine. So I decided to pull the shaft yesterday and take a look. I happen to have a set of sterling 10.25 shafts laying around, as well as some Dana 60 35 spline spiders. I pulled the shaft and to my amazement the 35 spline shaft fit into the stock spindle with room to spare. Then I pulled the 35 spline shaft out and laid it next to the stock shaft. They are identical lengths and the bolt pattern on the sterling that goes to the hub is the same as well. The 60 I have is out of an 80's ford van. This allows you to make a 35spline rear 60 with all junkyard parts.

I will do a write up with pics when I install everything.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-11-2010, 10:32 AM
Bad ass.

85cj7
01-11-2010, 12:03 PM
Alright as we all know Dana 60 full float rears are less sought after for one ton swaps because of the 30 spline axle shafts that are stock. You can fit 35 spline shafts into the axle by boring/machining the spindle out to accomadate the larger 1.5" aftermarket shafts. Well after you buy aftermarket shafts and pay for machining as well as sourcing a new 35 spline locker or spider gears it gets expensive fast. For the money invested you are better off getting a sterling or 14bolt. Well that doesn't have to be the case.

As we all know I am really cheap, and a huge packrat. This worked out in my advantage this time. I talked with Kopecki about what all he had to do to his axle and was least than excited to do mine. So I decided to pull the shaft yesterday and take a look. I happen to have a set of sterling 10.25 shafts laying around, as well as some Dana 60 35 spline spiders. I pulled the shaft and to my amazement the 35 spline shaft fit into the stock spindle with room to spare. Then I pulled the 35 spline shaft out and laid it next to the stock shaft. They are identical lengths and the bolt pattern on the sterling that goes to the hub is the same as well. The 60 I have is out of an 80's ford van. This allows you to make a 35spline rear 60 with all junkyard parts.

I will do a write up with pics when I install everything.

The spindles on my 609 are from a 90-94 E-250 and fit 35 spline moser shafts without being machined. Don't know if the OD on these custom shafts are the same as stock 60s or not though.

stx4wheeler
01-11-2010, 12:40 PM
Correct ihave heard that van 60's will fit them, but haven't heard anything about using stock shafts.

Eckert
01-11-2010, 12:48 PM
since it is a Dodge rear, is it a 60HD? rumor is the HD's came with 35 spline shafts stock which might explain the broached spindle.

stx4wheeler
01-12-2010, 09:59 PM
It is a ford van 60 rear. Today when cleaning out the back seatci found a 3/4 full bottle of jäger now if I can convince Karl to drink it my day willbe complete.

jerryg79
01-12-2010, 10:17 PM
if it tastes like sh!t that means its still good.

KrazyKarl02
01-12-2010, 10:18 PM
It is a ford van 60 rear. Today when cleaning out the back seatci found a 3/4 full bottle of jäger now if I can convince Karl to drink it my day willbe complete.

Oh, I see your evil plan.

uglyota
01-13-2010, 09:56 AM
so did you drink it?

stx4wheeler
01-13-2010, 10:28 AM
Hey if anyone has some favorite pictures or build threads for Chevy truggy's that they liked post them up. I am interested in inside and exo cage as well as a combo of both. Gracias

Sharpe
01-13-2010, 10:32 AM
http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=5601

bcolman
01-13-2010, 11:55 AM
check the chevy forum on pirate, there is one that is a s10 that is sweet, but cant find the link right now, there are also some other good one in there that i have seen

stx4wheeler
01-15-2010, 01:12 PM
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=762284&page=4

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=647634&highlight=

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=693183



http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=769919

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=641709

http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=30873

http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=21238&page=5

http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=28683

http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=18408

http://www.midwestern4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=731121&page=2

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=731121&page=5

bcolman
01-15-2010, 04:24 PM
I went to high school with the guy that own the blazer in the second link, he has some sick fab skills as you can see in the pictures, cory jb and i also wheeled with him at krocks last memorial day

bcolman
01-15-2010, 08:46 PM
here is one from pirate
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=776907

davido
01-16-2010, 12:35 AM
here is one from pirate
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=776907


Told you Krebs! :flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
01-16-2010, 09:15 PM
I installed seat belts, and some lexan on the back window to keep mud out of your hair. Also last night coop, Robbie, Karl, and myself started destroying the parts truck. We also got my 38's I bought from Robbie mounted on the 16x7 wheels. Robbie is the Charlie Daniels of the super swamper.

colman
01-16-2010, 10:35 PM
i have a 2wd chevy box u can have if you are planning crossover.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-17-2010, 01:44 AM
i have a 2wd chevy box u can have if you are planning crossover.

I am going to kick you square in the taint myself.

Eckert
01-17-2010, 02:08 AM
I am going to kick you square in the taint myself.

what?! contract that **** out:flipoff2:

colman
01-17-2010, 02:27 AM
? i'm just trying to clean out my extra parts without scraping them, i only have a few months

DRAGOONRANCH
01-17-2010, 03:17 AM
what?! contract that **** out:flipoff2:

nope, he made it real personal. I'z gonna do it myself. ;)


? i'm just trying to clean out my extra parts without scraping them, i only have a few months

I have my HS/CO stuff at Dexter waiting on him to pick it up (if he hasn't gotten it alredy). :flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
01-17-2010, 09:43 AM
No thanks Colman I'm getting all ed's stuff.

colman
01-17-2010, 02:15 PM
thats cool, didnt remember about that. tyler seemed way to excited to kick me in certain places... fag

stx4wheeler
01-19-2010, 08:51 AM
http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/the%20bastard%202/?action=view&current=f5e94f8f.jpg
http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/the%20bastard%202/?action=view&current=f6c9569c.jpg



pics of new tires and wheels

DRAGOONRANCH
01-19-2010, 09:11 AM
http://s553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/the%20bastard%202/.


http://i553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/the%20bastard%202/5998b78d.jpg

stx4wheeler
01-24-2010, 11:07 PM
Did some work. Karl helped me chop the donor truck apart. I removed the Drunk driver saftey door bars that were welded into place. I then broke the beads off the front two tires and cleaned all of the dirt out of the beads so that they don't leak down. No pictures.

Sharpe
01-25-2010, 12:01 PM
Frick this guy's 465/208 combo is what you need to start on a dubbler and its a prety damn good price.

http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=31261

bcolman
01-25-2010, 12:34 PM
Frick this guy's 465/208 combo is what you need to start on a dubbler and its a prety damn good price.

http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=31261

other than the fact that the parts are in new mexico :p

Sharpe
01-25-2010, 12:49 PM
Get the guy to meet Rowdy somewhere when he heads back home.

stx4wheeler
02-05-2010, 04:15 PM
How far can I move the front axle forward (using the 2wd box) without having to move the gearbox. I will be running full hi steer with hydro assist.

bcolman
02-05-2010, 05:41 PM
i think i went 3 inches or so and could have gone 1-2 more i think, but atleast 3 inches

uglyota
02-05-2010, 05:57 PM
i think i went 3 inches or so and could have gone 1-2 more i think, but atleast 3 inches

uhh...huhuhhh.....

colman
02-05-2010, 09:14 PM
it depends on what kind of high steer, if you put the tie rod in front of the axle and the drag link behind you can move it alot, i think sharpe did that and moves like 8 inches or something like that

stx4wheeler
02-05-2010, 10:01 PM
No typical tie rod and draglink in front of axle.

eight
02-05-2010, 10:37 PM
Mine's a jeep of course, but I could only move the axle forward maybe an inch before the steering would hit. This is the reason I always had the tie rod low.

DRAGOONRANCH
02-05-2010, 11:02 PM
it depends on what kind of high steer, if you put the tie rod in front of the axle and the drag link behind you can move it alot, i think sharpe did that and moves like 8 inches or something like that

When you move the drag link behind, you just have to figure out how to 'flip' your steering wheel or learn to turn it left when you need to go right. :laughing:

colman
02-05-2010, 11:21 PM
there is a stock aplication box that is reverse steer to make up for that, don't remember what and now that previous post is looking kinda stupid but whatever

bcolman
02-06-2010, 09:01 AM
i think the stock box that is reverse rotation is one of the van boxes, but sharpe is running one and can chime in to verify

DRAGOONRANCH
02-06-2010, 09:37 AM
astro van box i believe.

stx4wheeler
02-06-2010, 10:50 AM
Cool im gonna stick with the 2wd psc box I got from ed and get a set of the frame plates from off-road design to help out with the cracking issues.

Sharpe
02-06-2010, 12:46 PM
The reversed box is from a fullsize van, not an astro. The astro van boxes are reverse as well but they mount inside the frame like a C/K series.

bcolman
02-06-2010, 09:07 PM
i got the frame repair kit, you should also look in to their brace, or atleast make your own, it will help a bunch

stx4wheeler
02-07-2010, 04:57 PM
38's are to small 42" iroks are where it's at.

http://m553.photobucket.com/albumview/albums/stx4wheeler/the%20bastard%202/65d1d6f5.jpg.html?&pbauth=1_uLEBonVPfaLdh1h3YMYz2UQCgEii2aRSlQnpcNRAC RXsvlKGOOcFNCaRrS904SLA%2B3k42bd6sb4vPSzXYYUnjo4b8 sb5OBX%2FqN%2FAY5xNZQ2ngWtGk3E5Hv%2FVsZzff%2FAtJnd d%2BVVVIMly%2BwXC8U%2BvmaWGJu870aTuG%2FDsbHZVoEg%3 D

colman
02-07-2010, 06:07 PM
have you put the one tons in yet?

DRAGOONRANCH
02-07-2010, 11:38 PM
No.

http://i553.photobucket.com/albums/jj384/stx4wheeler/the%20bastard%202/65d1d6f5.jpg

DRAGOONRANCH
02-07-2010, 11:41 PM
What is your wheelbase as it sits right now? When I get around to linking mine (if I can't build or find a tube chassis to throw the drivetrain in one day), I would like to end up pushing the front out and move the rear forward a bit so that I end up with equal length driveshafts.

stx4wheeler
02-07-2010, 11:43 PM
No but I am collecting all the parts to swap everything in. I plan on wheeling it pretty much as is for the next 6 months or so since it is working fine right now. It seems I enjoy actually wheeling not towing a turd 7 hrs to break it right away and spending the weekend pissed. I am gonna swap stuff in slow and build it right the first time.

The guy I bought it from said 101" but I roughly measured it when I got it and it was closer to 98". Eventually I would like to be around 110" on the same sized frame as it is right now. Which consists of being chopped off 2" in front of the factory hangers and shortened like 23" out back. For reference the space from the back of the cab to the back bumper is 57".

stx4wheeler
03-10-2010, 04:24 PM
Alright I temporarily fixed the clutch linkage that broke at gilmer.

So I kinda torn as what to do. My current clutch is on it's way out. I bought a late model sm 465 with 32 spline output and a complete hydraulic clutch setup that has been rebuilt. My current trans is the crappy 10 spline output with the figure 8 pattern attached to a fixed rear output 205. I also have a 32 spline slip yoke np208 that would bolt up to the late model 32 spline trans as well as another 27 spline 208 that can be used as parts.

My options seem to be:
1. Swap the late model bell housing and hydro setup onto the 10 spline trans and get a new clutch
pros- keep the strength of the 205 and fixed rear yoke.
Cons- 205's sucky gear ratio

2. Swap in late model 465 with 32 spline 208 and take spare t-case parts with me on trips.
Pros- will get me right at 100:1 crawl ratio, all internals of trans were replaced/rebuilt 6 months ago and have 300 miles on them.
Cons- Aluminium chain driven slip yoke case, have the pain in the ass of carry spare t-case parts.


Also I assume I can swap the hydro bell housing onto the the older non hydro trans is this true? I thought I saw something on tx4x4 saying that I can't do that but I can't seem to find the thread again or figure out why that would be true.

What brand of cluthes do you all like for trail rigs? The late model came with centerforce 2 but I haven't heard good things about them.

colman
03-10-2010, 05:56 PM
the thing with chevy hdro is they did different things so get everything with it and remember the year

stx4wheeler
03-10-2010, 06:36 PM
the thing with chevy hdro is they did different things so get everything with it and remember the year


Do what? Are you trying to say that the setup changed from year to year or what? If so what parts changed? So will the late model stuff go onto the older trans?

colman
03-10-2010, 07:46 PM
from what i read when i was thinking about going chevy and hydro is that its not like alot of other chevy stuff where it is all the same. so u need to get the master, slave, bhousing from the same vehicle and remember what it is. i could be wrong and i would love for someone else to confirm or deny this.you can bolt a late bh on an early trans afaik and as long as you have the rest of the hydraulics that match the late bh then you are golden

stx4wheeler
03-10-2010, 09:25 PM
Well that I have all the parts I need but unfortunately I don't know what yr model the stuff I have came out of.

Also about how many inches of lift does the front end 52 inch spring swap net? I realize there are variable like how far the front perch is moved and how many leaves are in your pack, I'm just looking for a ballpark figure.

bcolman
03-10-2010, 11:54 PM
a 52 swap will net about 4 inches lift

stx4wheeler
03-11-2010, 12:09 AM
Sweet that's what I have now and didn't want to go much larger.

stx4wheeler
03-11-2010, 11:38 AM
Anyone else have anymore info to share on the trans swap stuff?
What do you all think about using the 208?

Tx 4x4 link to hydro swap
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=30653


Edit-
So after doing a bunch of reading today I went out at measured the adapter that's on the back of the 32spl trans and found out it is not for a np208 it is the semi rare 465/205 round pattern adapter. Now I need to find a 465/208 adapter or just scrap that idea.

stx4wheeler
03-14-2010, 11:30 PM
Picked up a 465/208 adapter today. I have decided to run the 208 and see what happens. I just couldn't resist a 25% gain towards a lower crawl ratio. I now have almost everything I need for the trans swap minus a new clutch and a np 208 shifter. Like a retard I left the one in the parts truck.

I also made a list of all parts needed to swap in the one tons. I forgot how expensive the one ton crap gets.

Shaggy
03-14-2010, 11:54 PM
i have a 208 shifter

stx4wheeler
03-15-2010, 12:10 AM
For a chevy? I don't think ford and chevy ones are the same.

colman
03-15-2010, 07:41 AM
when did fords come witha 208?

Shaggy
03-15-2010, 08:28 AM
early to mid 80s

colman
03-15-2010, 10:46 AM
thanks

Eckert
03-15-2010, 11:17 AM
when did fords come witha 208?

go look under the scout :flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
07-27-2010, 12:18 PM
Well, the frick doubler was a pipe dream, the idea was awesome, but as most of us have learned being extremely cheap usually doesn't mean reliable or even functional. To keep going with the theme of not trying to ghetto rig the bastard I picked up a really sweet deal on a np 203/205 doubler with driveshafts.

Specs:
Doubler was built about 2-3 years ago with all of the top of the line parts.
np 203 built by Off-Road Design, 27 spline- I will need to swap to 32 spline input and redrill the front of the np 203 for the round pattern sm 465.

Off-Road Design Gen II doubler clocked with the np 205 being flat.

Np 205 Built by NorthWest Fab case has been fully gone through, as well as their billet parts kit installed. Case has been twin sticked with their new rails. NP 205 has High Angle Driveline 1350 rear CV flange installed on the rear output, with a 1350 front CV flange on the Front output.

Northwest Fab triple stick with cable shifters

Copperhead fab np 203/205 doubler truss, made by the original owner of Copperhead fab. Suppossedly this is the prototype for the kit they sell now. The only difference is this craddle was designed to do a flat belly, skid versus the version that the new owner sells now that has the funky center bushing.

Both drive shafts are High Angle Driveline 1350 CV shafts with all 1350 joints throughout. The front shaft has the long 10" long slip, and the rear is a 5" slip. Wheelbase in his blazer was around 108" which is very close to what my target wheelbase is. The only difference may be that he ran a 700R4 instead of the stick so the front may not work. I will most likely adjust my wheelbase accordingly so that I will not have to cut down or re-tube these shafts.

stx4wheeler
07-27-2010, 12:20 PM
more pics

bburris
07-27-2010, 12:27 PM
Pimpin'

Was that your target wheelbase, or are you adjusting that idea slightly based on not wanting to retube those driveshafts? :flipoff2:

agjohn02
07-27-2010, 01:00 PM
looks hard to shift

bcolman
07-27-2010, 03:55 PM
just so you know that front output flange is stock, jess machines the flange on the driveshafts to make the 1350 cv's fit

bcolman
07-27-2010, 03:58 PM
also one of the shifter brackets looks bad

stx4wheeler
07-27-2010, 04:43 PM
Yes, I know the front output is stock, I have three others like it in my garage. The 205 shifts fine as is right now, I agree the front bracket needs a little love.

Brett,

My target wheelbase was around 110-112". The 700r4 is about 2" shorter than my standard setup. My rough measurements tell me that both shafts will prolly work as is with my plans. I will make the wheelbase fit the shafts to save time and money.:flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
08-05-2010, 10:50 AM
For those that are running chevy 52" springs up front how many leaves did you leave in the pack, I was thinking of just removing the overload and using that as a starting point. I have two packs to mix and match leafs from, so if anyone knows a good configuration using either more long leafs or shorts one speak up.

Sharpe
08-05-2010, 10:52 AM
There is a huge variety of leaf thicknesses used so you'll have to figure this out by trial and error. Take the shorter leafs out first and work your way up the pack.

85cj7
08-05-2010, 11:16 AM
accordinto my chart , 52s came in
4(3/1) spring capacity of 1290lbs 1 1/2" thickness
5(4/1) " " of 1950lbs, 1 7/8" thickness
6(5/1)" " of 1875lbs, 2 1/8" thickness
5(4/1) " " of 2150lbs, 2 1/16" thickness
6(5/1) " " of 2200lbs, 2 1/4" thickness
7(6/1) " " of 2775lbs, 2 11/16" thickness

hope this helps, but ya like sharpe said remove the shortr leafs 1st.

RCcola55
08-05-2010, 11:24 AM
the bronco had 4, way too much wrap. Cooks has like 5 or 6 and it works great, I would shoot for a little over 2" thickness in the pack

uglyota
08-05-2010, 11:30 AM
Or put the right amount of springs in for ride height and flex, then use an antiwrap bar to control wrap! :flipoff2:

DRAGOONRANCH
08-05-2010, 11:42 AM
Or put the right amount of springs in for ride height and flex, then use an antiwrap bar to control wrap! :flipoff2:

You did read the title of this thread didn't you??? :flipoff2:

RCcola55
08-05-2010, 11:42 AM
to "properly" do an antiwrap bar, the shackles need to be opposite ends of eachother, although eds as an example isnt that way, it seems to work fine.


edit: fixed for the soul thief

uglyota
08-05-2010, 12:00 PM
I don't know if I did the "properly" do an antiwrap on the uglytruck or not :confused2
:flipoff2:

agjohn02
08-05-2010, 12:07 PM
the "properly" do an antiwrap the shackles need to be opposite of eachother, though eds inst that way and it seems to work fine.

huh?

DRAGOONRANCH
08-05-2010, 12:14 PM
What's the matter John, you don't read 'donk?

RCcola55
08-05-2010, 02:01 PM
wow i was still half asleep when that was written, i will fix

uglyota
08-05-2010, 02:31 PM
so now that it's fixed, what does it mean? are you just saying that the shackle on a shackle-type antiwrap bar should be in tension under accelaration?

RCcola55
08-05-2010, 03:16 PM
from what i have read when building the shackle typ antiwrap, the shackle ned to be on the opposite end in relation to the spring shackle, why? i dunno, ask the guy who's balls are always on fire, he is the engineer.

agjohn02
08-05-2010, 03:18 PM
from what i have read when building the shackle typ antiwrap, the shackle ned to be on the opposite end in relation to the spring shackle, why? i dunno, ask the guy who's balls are always on fire, he is the engineer.

the answers you seek are on pirate4x4.com

uglyota
08-05-2010, 04:46 PM
engineers have gonnorrhea?

I guess it makes sense to point it towards the spring hanger end, just never heard it described that way

edit: best page top ever!

sasquatch
08-05-2010, 04:57 PM
i took the overloads out and put a short add a leaf in

bcolman
08-05-2010, 05:42 PM
i pulled out the overloads and left the rest alone

stx4wheeler
08-09-2010, 02:45 PM
I keep reading on here and some on pirate about people tweaking the chevy half ton frames. Where do most of the problems occur? I plan on adding a front crossmember where the front spring hangers are, and I am thinking about boxing the inside of the frame from the engine crossmember to the front bumper. The cab will soon get boatsided so that should take care of the rest, right?

I will also be adding ord's steering box frame beef up kit and making my own brace for it.

Sharpe
08-09-2010, 02:52 PM
Pigpen's frame has held up prety well and the only additional bracing is the sliders.

stx4wheeler
08-09-2010, 10:53 PM
Even though I was excited to take the bastard to alto for the Halloween run, I did not want to miss Clayton to do it. Major tear downs always eat up more time than I anticipate so I am gonna start way early and it will realistically still take longer than I want it to.

It is now sitting on jackstands at its previous ride height of about 4"'s of lift. My main goal is to keep it at 4"-5". Also, I had planned to run chevy 52's up front, but I don't like that they have a centered spring pin. I am picking up a set of alcans that the guy I bought my doubler had made. The specs are 1" longer than stock(49") with a 2" offset to the front. They are also designed to give 3-4" of lift, and have a military wrap leaf already in the pack. This will shorten my approach angle by about 3.5" maybe a little more if I install a zero rate, and control the wrap.

List of Major things to do:
Swap in new front springs
Swap in new rear springs(waggie 54" rears that have a 4" offset spring pin)
Setup gears in both 60's
Swap 35 spline shafts into the rear 60
Swap old sm465 for the late model 465
Swap doubler input and redrill face for 6 bolt pattern
Mount doubler
Swap out 35 gallon tank for the 12 gallon from krebs blazer
Hard wire my winch in, and respool with new to me cable( thanks clarke).

stx4wheeler
08-09-2010, 10:57 PM
And yes before I do any real work under the truck I will get the right jack stands/ supports for it. I had to get the axles out in a hurry so I could sell them.

TdmayfieldIV
08-10-2010, 02:12 AM
how do you swamp a leaf spring? Soggy bottom?

DRAGOONRANCH
08-10-2010, 02:48 AM
It's a bonfire thing, you just wouldn't understand...

stx4wheeler
08-19-2010, 12:24 AM
I got the old 10 spline sm465 and np 205 pulled tonight along with the old front leafs. I also ordered the rest of the parts to put the truck back together.

From the looks of the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate I think this trans may have been subjected to some alto submarine action.

stx4wheeler
08-19-2010, 09:01 PM
Some of the new parts are starting to trickle in. Today, I got the chromo 35 spline stubs, doubler re-seal kit, and the 32 spline input gear for the np 203. ORD was also cool enough to send me a template to cut out and use for the drilling and tapping of the np 203 to get it ready for the round 6 bolt pattern of the sm465.

I also removed both of the old front spring hangers because the bolt holes were egged out. I had another set laying around so it was easy to throw the new set on. I moved them forward and inch to help with approach angle. I also threw my new springs in place to see how far the axle would be moved and to check my shackle angle. It is currently moved forward 3", you can see a barely see a yellow mark on the frame that indicates where the factory spring pin was compared to the new one. I think I am going to move the front hanger back another half of an inch to get a little better shackle angle.

Last but not least, thank you very much previous owner for doing a **** job welding the rear ****ing axle, and also failing to use loc-tite on either pinion nut!! See pictures below for 10 bolt paper weight!!:angry:

KrazyKarl02
08-19-2010, 10:10 PM
I would take all that rivet'd spring hanger crap out and weld some stuff.

stx4wheeler
10-04-2010, 11:07 PM
Over that past few weeks I have gotten a few things done. I have swapped the old sm465 10 spline for the 32 spline with the hydro clutch bellhousing, with centerforce II dual friction clutch.

I mounted the hydro clutch master cylinder, and started on making my own hydro clutch pedal assembly, because I am not using a factory pedal assembly because they are hard to find and people think they are made of gold.

Over the last week, I drilled and tapped the face of the np203 to use the round 6 bolt pattern, and swapped the 700r4 np203 input for a 32 spline input. While doing this I replaced the seals and gaskets on the doubler, changed the fluid and repainted the doubler truss.

stx4wheeler
10-04-2010, 11:19 PM
I slid the doubler under the truck to get a feel for what my rear driveshaft length and I think my high angle shaft will work without shortening it.

So far the only problem I have ran into is with the new trans, the trans mount on the trans adapter doesn't rest against the old trans mounts on the factory crossmember. Does anyone know if chevy used a different crossmember for the later model standards? I think I have a crossmember from an auto in my shed so I am gonna try that first or build a new one.

Also, what angle are most factory drivetrains set at, or most of the 4x4 builders using?

bcolman
10-04-2010, 11:23 PM
not sure where you would check on yours, but every time i rebuilt my trans cross member i just made sure the trans pan was level and that has worked great for me

Eckert
10-04-2010, 11:24 PM
Looks good Frick!


Also, what angle are most factory drivetrains set at, or most of the 4x4 builders using?

explain? i dont get what your asking?

stx4wheeler
10-04-2010, 11:40 PM
Looks good Frick!


explain? i dont get what your asking?



If, I can't get a factory crossmember to work I would like to know what angle the factory chevy drivetrain was set at ie 5 degrees or 10 degrees etc, so that I can have my drivetrain setting the same degree as the factory even though I will have a new crossmember. I am possibly over thinking this.

Sharpe
10-04-2010, 11:42 PM
I just set everything to be above the bottom of the frame rails (i.e. flat belly). You have CV's and shafts that are over 2 feet long, it doesnt really matter.

Eckert
10-04-2010, 11:43 PM
If, I can't get a factory crossmember to work I would like to know what angle the factory chevy drivetrain was set at ie 5 degrees or 10 degrees etc, so that I can have my drivetrain setting the same degree as the factory even though I will have a new crossmember. I am possibly over thinking this.

Im going with the latter. with a dedicated trial truck, why does it matter? it will always be off camber unless its sitting on the trailer.

colman
10-04-2010, 11:44 PM
cause he wants to do it right the first time.....

stx4wheeler
10-05-2010, 10:35 PM
Tonight, I made the lower bearing retainer for the np 203, since the standard factory adapter doesn't cover the lower bearing cap.

Next, I moved on to replacing the 1979 crossmember with the 1985 and after crossmember that looks like the King Ranch running W made whoopie with Gumby and this crossmember was the offspring. This crossmember fixed the issue from yesterday with the gap between the trans and the trans crossmember. I am still not sure if I am going to modify this stock crossmember or make my own.

Then I moved on to trying to stab the doubler by myself, which was intersteing to say the least. This is the first time during the doubler process that I have been glad to have the Copperhead fab doubler truss on mydoubler. It made installing the doubler with one person a feasible task. My install was stopped due to the back of the np 205 hitting the cab floor. Needless to say tomorrow the seat will be coming out and so will the torch.

Sharpe
10-06-2010, 09:14 AM
I would (and did) make a new crossmember. Its fairly easy but the doubler not being the flat-belly variety may complicate things.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/attachment-2.jpg

stx4wheeler
10-06-2010, 11:57 PM
Doubler installed!!! I had to make two or three cuts in the floor to clear the doubler, and still might do some more trimming or adjusting with my 3lb sledge. The drivetrain can problably go up another inch inside the frame rails so it will be only hanging down about and inch.

I also had to cut about half of the stock trans crossmember off to clear the copperhead fab doubler truss. Needless to say it will be going in the trash.

Now time to figure out the doubler skid/crossmember.

KrazyKarl02
10-07-2010, 02:06 AM
Glad to see there is not a crushed Frick under that beast. What do you plan to do about the speedo cable hole?

stx4wheeler
10-18-2010, 10:19 PM
Tonight, I swapped both sets of 35 spline spider gears into the two new 4.56 and up dana 60 carriers. I hope to get the gears set this weekend so that once the doubler skid/crossmember is done I can get it back on 4 wheels.

Months ago I found out that I could use my old spare shafts from big nasty's sterling 10.25 in my van dana 60 by swapping the side gears from a 60 front 35 SPL and turning down the shouldered seal surface on the sterling shafts. The sterling shafts are about a 1/4 inch shorter than the old 60 shafts, but there is still close to full engagement. This option was alot cheaper than buying aftermarket cut the fit shafts like most people with dana 60 rears have to do.

The old 60 rear shaft was about 1 1/4" with neck down going from the shaft to the splines which is typically where I have seen them fail. The sterling shafts are larger at the splines and neck down to the shaft. The sterling shaft is 1 1/2"at the smallest point.

Tomorrow is welding day for those newly installed spiders!!

stx4wheeler
10-19-2010, 10:04 PM
WTF, everything I read and you all told me said I could move my front axle forward about four inches without having to go to the van box. I sure hope I don't run into these issues as below with my 2wd box and traditional high steer arms.

http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=35643

colman
10-19-2010, 11:11 PM
brian moved his several inches forward. i don't remember exactly how many tho. i think it was four

Sharpe
10-19-2010, 11:13 PM
http://tamor.org/forums/showpost.php?p=220379&postcount=857

stx4wheeler
10-19-2010, 11:26 PM
Yeah I understand the logistics of it I'm just pissed that now I have a tapped psc box and two brand new highsteer arms that are not what I need. Now I have to decide to not move my axle as far or buy all new ****, when I read that 4" or less was fine.

Sharpe
10-19-2010, 11:37 PM
It is "fine." It worked well enough for me for four years before I decided to change it.

stx4wheeler
10-20-2010, 09:42 AM
It is "fine." It worked well enough for me for four years before I decided to change it.

Wasn't you old setup crossover not full high steer? I sure as he'll didn't spend all the cash on the other parts to end up with ****ty crossover. I don't want to ghetto this then have to redo it in a couple years.

Sharpe
10-20-2010, 10:06 AM
Yah, tierod was still mounted low. The biggest issue with running the pitman arm facing forward is spring clearance. You are gonna have to come up with something creative to solve this issue. If an off the shelf option would have worked, I'd have done it.

stx4wheeler
10-20-2010, 10:08 AM
What about moving the box forward 3"?

Sharpe
10-20-2010, 10:16 AM
That would be a retarded amount of work because of the dimples in the frame.

stx4wheeler
10-20-2010, 10:24 AM
Alright I'm not going to buy any other parts till I get it all under there and see how it fits. If I go with the van box and tie rod behind the axle what is the minimum that I have to move it forward to make it work I can really only move my axle forward about 5 inches without running out of frame?

Sharpe
10-20-2010, 10:34 AM
I had to extend my frame substantially to make the draglink parallel with the axle. About from my winch plate forward is where its extended.

stx4wheeler
10-20-2010, 01:49 PM
Wow this really brings the gay. What about a 2wd box, and then move the tierod behind the axle so that it does not hit the draglink? Thanks for the info sharpe.

Worse off I have a ford steering box that is tapped that I could prolly use.

Sharpe
10-20-2010, 01:55 PM
Moving the tierod behind the axle is the orginal intent and design of the double ended arms. There could be clearance issues with your engine crossmember though. I dont know for sure, because I have a kustom crossmember.

Putting a Ford box on this thing under some guise of making correcting this situation easier is gayer than cum in a mustache.

stx4wheeler
10-20-2010, 07:09 PM
I think the crisis has been averted. I talked with Brian today, and he said he moved it about 4". He has the draglink in front of the axle and the tie-rod behind. He is also running the same pitman and 2wd box that I have. I am going to call mad4wd tomorrow and see if I can exchange one of my arms for the double ended style.

bcolman
10-20-2010, 07:28 PM
glad i could help

stx4wheeler
10-25-2010, 11:46 PM
This weekend I regeared the front and rear dana 60's to 5.86's, and swapped in the welded carriers. I also did most of the work on the rear 60 to accept the sterling 10.25 35 splines.

Today, I started the transmission crossmember. Hopefully I will get it wrapped up tomorrow. Yes, i am going to gusset the outside of the plate driveshaft hump and cut out the bottom of the square tube.

Sharpe
10-26-2010, 07:15 AM
Sweet pits in that metal. What are you going to do about the exhaust?

DRAGOONRANCH
10-26-2010, 07:55 AM
I vote just dump the exhaust in the cab. :flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
10-26-2010, 08:23 AM
Sweet pits in that metal. What are you going to do about the exhaust?

Prolly y-pipe it over to the driverside and run a single pipe or run the two pipes next to each other on the driveside since I have alot more room there.

Sharpe
10-26-2010, 08:28 AM
Good plan. On Pigpen, my crossover runs right under the dust cover for the trans and Y's into the single 4" which then runs straight out the back. It looks like it hangs down kinda low but it is fairly protected by the front shackles and it was really the only way to run it.

stx4wheeler
10-26-2010, 04:17 PM
FYI, I just got off the phone with Mad4wd, his customer service is pretty good. These arms were bought/shipped out about 8 months ago and he had no problems, with me shipping the arm I didn't need back and he would simply send me the double ended arm as long as I paid the difference in the double ended vs the single which was about $30 bucks.

His product is top notch, and his customer service is right on par, if you need some hi-steer arms make sure and check him out.

stx4wheeler
10-28-2010, 02:27 PM
4 or 6 degree shims for the front axle, I thinking 6 degrees.

Also, does anyone know of a company beside diy4x that makes some adjustable front shackle hangers like this that aren't $170 bucks. I just need the bottom part that the springs bolt to. I know I can make some, but would like to buy them to save on fab time.

http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=120


Also, I assume all sbc motor mounts are the same from year to year, ie 1979 vs 1990? Just wanting to make sure before I order my poly motor mounts.

bcolman
10-28-2010, 03:51 PM
i am not 100% sure, but i think there is a difference in motor mounts through out the years, it is either that or the first set i ordered were the wrong ones, i would check at a parts store to compare years just to make sure

DRAGOONRANCH
10-28-2010, 09:31 PM
I thought ORD had some adjustable hangers, not sure though.

stx4wheeler
11-11-2010, 12:16 AM
Spent the last week or so of work time messing with the trans crossmember. This thing was a huge pain in the ass. If i had the whole process to do over I would have saved some more coin and got a stak or used atlas. I also bent the rear crossmember from 1.5" dom. I will get some better pics tomorrow once I grind some welds and slap some paint on it.

eight
11-11-2010, 09:05 AM
Just the picture, or does the 205 hang down pretty far?

DRAGOONRANCH
11-11-2010, 09:22 AM
I am guessing it's only ~2"s (or less) below the frame where it's at now.

stx4wheeler
11-11-2010, 09:40 AM
What Ed said, the picture makes it look worse than it is.

stx4wheeler
11-12-2010, 12:00 AM
More pics of the crossmember. Yes I know the piece of angle for the trans mount is not level. The whole doubler t-case/ trans seems to have a five degree tilt to the passengerside for some reason. I tried jacking the 205 up from its outside edge and it really did nothing for it. I had someone tell me this angle is to help with driveshaft clearance with the trans, but this seems a little excessive. The only thing I can think of is worn out motor mounts, but I tried to move the motor with a piece of pipe and it really doesn't seem to move that much. If motor mounts don't fix it then i dont know what it is and will run it.

bcolman
11-12-2010, 01:05 AM
speaking from experience i would brace the d-shaft hoop some more, it sucks when a crossmember is the reason you have to stop wheeling for the weekend

DRAGOONRANCH
11-12-2010, 02:17 AM
I agree, even if you have to notch the floor pan to get it to fit.

DRAGOONRANCH
11-12-2010, 02:18 AM
Might be able to brace it like this if you can find the room inside the frame.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/DRAGOONRANCH/TAMOR/transxmembercopy.jpg

stx4wheeler
11-12-2010, 07:47 AM
Why would you add to more bushings? The factory x member uses one bushing, if you did it like ed's picture then I don't know how you would run exhaust or fuel lines. Plus the trans x member is going to be tied in to the rear doubler x member, along with a skid. The crossmember I made is 1/4 wall it isn't going to bend.

As far as the d-shaft hoop, the only thing I would consider doing is adding another large rib to the inside of it or a small one to the top, just to make sure it doesn't taco in the middle un supported part.

DRAGOONRANCH
11-12-2010, 08:43 AM
I know adding the extra bushings would take up a large amount of space but that 3/8" plate (?) just looks like a real weak spot with all that beef around it. Get some 3/4 or 1" plate to put on top of it and I will be happy. :gigem:

bcolman
11-13-2010, 12:21 PM
i think just double plating the top of the hoop would work, in my opinion it would be worth the extra pound or two so you do have to re do it later

stx4wheeler
11-13-2010, 01:30 PM
It beefed some more already I'll post pics once I finish the rear cross member.

stx4wheeler
11-13-2010, 10:28 PM
I beefed up the hump in the trans crossmember by adding another inner backbone brace and added more material to the side gussets so that they connect.

Next, I started on the rear crossmember. I ran a sleeve through both brackets, the driverside is 1.5" dom and will be used to route all rear wiring and keep it out of harms way. The passengerside is 1 3/4 hrew and will be used for fuel system and brake line running.

Tomorrow I am gonna work on my skid and connecting it to the two crossmembers. Hopefully I will bedone with this forsaken doubler gayness.

stx4wheeler
11-13-2010, 10:30 PM
more

DRAGOONRANCH
11-13-2010, 11:12 PM
That front crossmember turned out pretty good.

stx4wheeler
11-19-2010, 01:39 AM
Doubler skid is almost complete. The front of the two runners that run parallel to the frame attach to the front side of the trans crossmember.

redcagepatrol
11-19-2010, 11:02 AM
did you ever consider grinding the dirt and paint off the frame before welding to it?:flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
11-19-2010, 11:20 AM
I wire brushed it and hit it with sandpaper. I didn't do any area that was not being welded to because alto/spring creek mud is gross. Besides that what the hottest setting on the welder is made for right?
:flipoff2:

KrazyKarl02
11-19-2010, 11:31 AM
did you ever consider grinding the dirt and paint off the frame before welding to it?:flipoff2:

Just turn the welder to the next power setting, that cleans it for you. :gigem:

Sharpe
11-19-2010, 11:34 AM
Apparently radiusing corners is against his religion as well :flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
11-22-2010, 12:00 AM
Worked all weekend long. The doubler skid is done and painted, I made a chevy 52/waggy 54" hybrid rear spring pack, I also
got the rear 60 and new spring perches ready to go. I finally got this hoe on some tires. I need to redo the rear spring hangers to get some more uptravel with the longer waggy springs. Also, it currently sits about 2" taller with the 42''s at wheeling psi than it was on the 35's.

Anyone know if chey hydro clutch systems use a plasctic spacer on the mounting surface for the slave cylinder that is attached to the bellhousing?

sam_hodnett
11-22-2010, 01:45 AM
Do i spot some gangster lean?

85cj7
11-22-2010, 02:30 AM
Nice shackle angle!

But like you said your pushing the rear shackle hangers back.

stx4wheeler
11-22-2010, 08:29 AM
Do i spot some gangster lean?

No you spot one tire with about 4psi of air and another with 15 psi.

85cj7
11-22-2010, 08:44 AM
No you spot one tire with about 4psi of air and another with 15 psi.

It also looks like the pass. side axle is sitting on a bottle jack while the driver side bumper is sitting on a jack stand. . . . "see the peanut? dead give away!" :flipoff2:

redcagepatrol
11-22-2010, 09:42 AM
why is the radiator not where it's supposed to be?:flipoff2:

remind me to stay away from this "Klogger waiting to happen" in Clayton:flipoff2:

eight
11-22-2010, 11:01 AM
When are you going to fix the color?

KrazyKarl02
11-22-2010, 11:49 AM
remind me to stay away from this "Klogger waiting to happen" in Clayton:flipoff2:

Last year as I recollect the Klogger was running when your craptrol was broke on the side of the trail. Then you had to summon the power of the blue oval by installing a ford coil on that thing :flipoff2:

KrazyKarl02
11-22-2010, 11:52 AM
Anyone know if chey hydro clutch systems use a plasctic spacer on the mounting surface for the slave cylinder that is attached to the bellhousing?

Krebs should know about this, he converted his blazer to a standard with hydro.

DRAGOONRANCH
11-22-2010, 12:11 PM
Krebs should know about this, he converted his blazer to a standard with hydro.

Who???


:blackflipooff2:

robertf03
11-22-2010, 01:22 PM
When are you going to fix the color?

harbor freight orange?

stx4wheeler
12-21-2010, 12:19 AM
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=597198

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=653718&highlight=dana+60+stud

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=935812


Robbie here are some links to stud fixes. posted so I can find it.

CheapJeep
12-21-2010, 10:03 PM
The rear stud came loose from the housing due to fawked threads while the front stud was ok but slightly bent, probably due to shims but I need them.

I'll probably go the u-bolt route since it's the most shim friendly and remove the least amount of housing webbing possible.

stx4wheeler
03-04-2011, 10:13 PM
4 wheels again, whoop!! I still have a ton of work to do, but I am getting there. I was on crack thinking I could have had this thing done by clayton.

I also reached my goal of beating Tate in having the bastard on 4 tires again:flipoff2:.

stx4wheeler
03-04-2011, 10:14 PM
Before one of you gun nuts wet yourself its a pellet pistol..

Shaggy
03-05-2011, 09:10 PM
I would have had it on all 4 tires a while ago if ballistic fab would send me my damn towers. I really don't have much left. Bleed brakes, set 60 gears, hydro lines, cross member, driveshafts, t-case shifter, mount shocks, and exhaust. Probably more but that is all I can think of

stx4wheeler
03-19-2011, 01:39 AM
Krosby Kustoms kicks off-road designs ass, we make our own chevy draglink to clear the engine crossmember. It was actually really easy to make and only took about 30 minutes to make.


link to the offroad design one
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Dana60crossover.htm

Sharpe
03-19-2011, 11:00 AM
You are aware the ORD one is like 1/4 wall and threaded right? Not so sure about yours. For the record, my dragling is made from a rockwell tie rod, so its legit:flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
03-19-2011, 11:50 AM
I have an air over hydro setup on my bender .250 is not an issue.

stx4wheeler
05-08-2011, 10:30 PM
18571185721857318574Took some time off of working on the suspension and drivetrain crap to finish the floor, install the new bucket seats, and make a shifter/cupholder console so that I could double my current cupholder ratio and also have a good mount for the cable shifters.

AggieTJ2007
05-08-2011, 10:55 PM
looks good I like the console

bcolman
05-09-2011, 04:49 AM
looks good, where did you get that plate with the shift patterns on it?

stx4wheeler
05-09-2011, 05:49 AM
I made it from a piece of spare aluminium, and stamped the pattern in with my die set.

KrazyKarl02
05-09-2011, 07:09 AM
On my Ford doubler the the pattern is reverse for the 203 vs. the 205, So one is L N H and the other is H N L. Is yours different?

stx4wheeler
05-09-2011, 10:46 PM
The interweb says that is the chevy 203 shift pattern. Also, yours might be different due to your shifter location/linkage.

stx4wheeler
09-18-2011, 09:33 PM
It's alive

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7iq8mpc51H8&sns=em

stx4wheeler
09-18-2011, 09:42 PM
Here are some pics my comp won't let me edit my replies.1873518736

BroncoJo
09-18-2011, 09:55 PM
Any plans for doors?

robertf03
09-18-2011, 10:02 PM
what was broken?

TdmayfieldIV
09-18-2011, 10:08 PM
neon seats ftw

Sharpe
09-19-2011, 07:42 AM
Needs boatsides.

KrazyKarl02
09-19-2011, 07:52 AM
what was broken?

It had 35" tires, 10 bolts, and not clutch.... Now it has won tons, 42's, a new hydro clutch setup, and a doubler. Let me sum this up a different way:

PRE-BUILD SPECS: Capcity 3 people, Cupholders 0, Cupholder to people ratio 0/3 - UNACCEPTABLE
POST_BUILD SPECS: Capacity 2 people, Cupholders 2, Cupholder to people ratio 2/2 = 1 - MODERATELY ACCEPTABLE

DRAGOONRANCH
09-19-2011, 07:32 PM
:laughing:

stx4wheeler
10-11-2011, 11:06 AM
Not quite done, but getting there. 1876118762

JB
10-11-2011, 01:22 PM
Sweet!

stx4wheeler
12-20-2012, 12:03 AM
New motor acquired, man I love Craigslist!

DRAGOONRANCH
12-20-2012, 08:40 AM
Newish fuel injected motah, or bigger cubes?