'93 F-150 build

[Sparling]

you could pull the pan and manually free each of the little balls then replace pan and refill, or even see if you could ream out each of the holes and put bigger balls in it, or you could do a shift kit (new thicker plate/new springs/new balls). All better options than just adding lucas and driving it :flipoff2:

Would I have to open up the valve body to do this or are there openings where I can stick a tool in or even possibly blow air through them?

[uglyota]

I know jack shiat about ford transmissions, and nearly so about auto transmissions in general. I bet you could google it though. I would get the shift kit.

[BroncoJo]

Search Fullsizebronco.com for shift kit information

[agjohn02]

you could pull the pan and manually free each of the little balls then replace pan and refill, or even see if you could ream out each of the holes and put bigger balls in it, or you could do a shift kit (new thicker plate/new springs/new balls). All better options than just adding lucas and driving it :flipoff2:


I know jack shiat about ford transmissions, and nearly so about auto transmissions in general. I bet you could google it though. I would get the shift kit.

So, should I buy gold or not, Eric?

[Eckert]

Translation: I give a douchbag answer and the newb fires back so I'll just put up a condescending rolly-eyes since I dont have a better rebuttal.

Put a bottle or two of Lucas additive in it and see where that gets you. ****'s magic.

Its a used trans from the back yard of Dexter, of course its going to be awesome with no problems! I'm sure the Lucas oil with its magic abilities will make it like new again! Best of luck! :gigem:

[TMatheaus]

try the seafoam trans tune stuff

[DRAGOONRANCH]

manually free each of the little balls then ream out each of the holes and put bigger balls in it :flipoff2:

John, you should buy eric because he is pure gold...

[Sparling]

I ended up moving the valve bodies and solenoid pack from my old transmission over to this transmission and everything works great now.

[Seth]

good stuff

[colman]

Glad to hear

[Sparling]

Now that I've got that sorted out, I looking to make the truck sound better. I am not trying to upgrade the exhaust further than the sound because I'm not spending money on performance on this truck right now. Can anybody recommend a muffler that they like that is louder than stock to cover up engine compartment noises but not so loud that it's annoying in a daily driver? I've looked at exhaust clips on youtube and it seems everybody does either a flowmaster 50 or glasspacks. I don't want glasspacks and want to see if there's something besides the flowmaster.

edit: I'd like it to sound like a truck, not a sports car.

[KrazyKarl02]

Dynomax, that is what I have on my Chevelle, it is like an off brand flow master and I think it sounds good.

[agjohn02]

Magnaflow is my personal favorite. I've got one on the Scout and the Jeep has one sitting in a box.

[JB]

Have a Maganflow on mine and it is nice and quiet.

[stx4wheeler]

I like flowmaster the 80 series is what I had on my big bronco and it was awesome.

[RCcola55]

its never gonna be very loud with the two cats on there. My bronco was the same way, just find someone to remove the precat and it will wake it up. I like magnaflow as well

[Shaggy]

i have a couple flowmasters sitting in the garage from the bronco.

[Sparling]

i have a couple flowmasters sitting in the garage from the bronco.

What series are they and what size in/outlet?

[Shaggy]

3" in and out... dont remember series for sure... dual chamber 80 i think

[Seth]

Bassani Y pipe. I got mine used for a couple hundred bucks. Or find a shop that will actually remove cats. most wont.

I have a universal cat behind my y pipe and then a 40 series flowmaster. I could tell very little difference between how it sounded with and without the cat on it. It's mildly loud.

It is probably a good idea to replace your cats at this point anyway, that is a high mileage truck right?

[Sparling]

It is probably a good idea to replace your cats at this point anyway, that is a high mileage truck right?

It's got 185k on it right now.

But if I replace the exhaust I'm going with some shorty headers and going dual exhaust, don't have the coin right now so I'm just replacing the muffler since the engine is somewhat of a turd anyways; not that I would want to tear it up with the current transmission. I want this one to last me until after college or until I do a ZF swap.

[Shaggy]

what engine... i have 351m hooker super comp headers too

[Sparling]

what engine... i have 351m hooker super comp headers too

Bone stock 93 5.0, except the spark plug wires, there's some janky stuff going on there that a PO did but it runs fine so I've never done anything with it.

[Seth]

How shady can spark plug wires get? Seems pretty cut and dried to me.

[Sparling]

How shady can spark plug wires get? Seems pretty cut and dried to me.

Somebody played dress up with my distributor with a bunch of different wires and a couple have electrical tape wrapped around them; not sure why.

[RCcola55]

that truck has two cats inline right? just cut out the first on and leave the second, big improvment

[Sparling]

that truck has two cats inline right? just cut out the first on and leave the second, big improvment

That's what I was thinking, I just need to find some exhaust tube somewhere to use. Is Ed's old stuff at the Dexter house? If nothing's been done with it yet I'll ask him about it.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

You are welcome to it if they don't have a need for it.

[TdmayfieldIV]

How much for the headers?

[Hot Pocket]

what engine... i have 351m hooker super comp headers too

Will they fit on a 400? Lookin to sell?

[Sparling]

I don't like how my truck can only go ~215 miles on a tank of gas. Since there's really not a way to dramatically increase the fuel efficiency of my engine, I'd like to increase the fuel capacity. I looked online and all I can find is 18 - 19 gallon tanks listed. Has anybody come across a way to increase the capacity to ~30 gallons short of adding the dual tanks that these trucks came factory with? I'd like to have this capacity without switching tanks if possible.

[85cj7]

I'm confused, you want to increase the storage capacity but not by replace the existing tank and not by adding an auxiliary tank? How do you expect to do this then?

[JB]

Transfer tank? Bronco tanks are over 30gallon.

[Sparling]

I'm confused, you want to increase the storage capacity but not by replace the existing tank and not by adding an auxiliary tank? How do you expect to do this then?

That's what I want to do, replace the stock tank with a larger tank, not have a fuel cell in the bed of my truck or have to replace my bed to get dual tanks if at all possible.

[Seth]

4x4 short bed comes with single tank, correct? I think thats the only config that does.

since you are running oversize tires, you prob wont use your stock spare tire carrier, so I would run a larger rear tank. Most aftermarket options are just larger saddle tanks that will prob interfere with your drivetrain.

Larger rear tanks came on broncos, but I seem to remember hearing they are not a direct swap out. aerotank and titan make oversize aftermarket stuff, and some one else I think i saw on one of the stacey bars shows.

[Shaggy]

Will they fit on a 400? Lookin to sell?

yes pm me

[Shaggy]

i have a 33 gallon tank i dont need

[Sparling]

i have a 33 gallon tank i dont need

From a bronco?

[Shaggy]

yes

[Sharpe]

We have a few old exhaust systems with various size tube in the backyard that you can butcher for whatever.

[Sparling]

Good news, my fuel mileage has skyrocketed since putting in Clarkes transmission and a new torque converter. It used to take me 1 1/4 tanks to get home and today it took me 3/4 of a tank to get home. I also drove with the windows up which I never do but I don't think that really helped too much.

I also took my truck in to get a recall taken care of. Apparently some part of the cruise control can make these trucks spontaneously catch on fire even when the key is off, so I figured it'd be good to get done. While there they were kind enough to do a "Multi Point Inspection" and I got a big packet about how every replacable part of my truck needs to be replaced and I need to spend more than I paid for the truck to do it. **** them.

[agjohn02]

ah, the exploder cruise control.

thats why they're called stealerships.

[TdmayfieldIV]

Good news, my fuel mileage has skyrocketed since putting in Clarkes transmission and a new torque converter. It used to take me 1 1/4 tanks to get home and today it took me 3/4 of a tank to get home. I also drove with the windows up which I never do but I don't think that really helped too much.

I also took my truck in to get a recall taken care of. Apparently some part of the cruise control can make these trucks spontaneously catch on fire even when the key is off, so I figured it'd be good to get done. While there they were kind enough to do a "Multi Point Inspection" and I got a big packet about how every replacable part of my truck needs to be replaced and I need to spend more than I paid for the truck to do it. **** them.

I wonder if they'll do one on my truck. That would be interesting ***

[stx4wheeler]

Hey sparling can you measure your front driveshaft for me? I would like you to measure from the center of the u-joint at the front axle where it meets the front driveshaft to the center of the front tcase flange or yoke whatever option your tcase has. Clear as mud? Thanks in advance.

[Sparling]

Here to here?

[stx4wheeler]

Yes sir thank you very much!! This helps out my homebrew doubler concept. I knew the e40d was a freakishly long trans.

[AggieTJ2007]

I dont think you should worry to much about front driveshaft length. My front driveshaft is super long with the front stretched and a doubler

[Sparling]

My truck isn't starting all the time, but after some persuasion with a hammer on the positive terminal it starts fine. The terminal is also corroding obscenely fast. Thoughts? There isn't any drain on the battery, and it'll start regardless of how long it sits as long as you play with the terminal a little.

[TdmayfieldIV]

tighten it...............:flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

Once a battery starts corroding on the terminals, it will never stop. Parts stores carry aerosol battery terminal cleaner that is worth the money, but a terminal cleaning brush from harbor freight works well too. I would get both and just keep an eye on it.

[mudtoy67]

Hammer persuasion + battery terminal = leak ----> corrosion

Everybody knows you should only tap on a battery terminal with the backside of a crescent wrench.:D

[DRAGOONRANCH]

It's nasty, but put a little grease on it once you clean it up. Has always worked well for me. Just how bad are the terminal ends? May be time to replace them.

[AggieTJ2007]

yeah I would check your battery cables too, battery acid likes to work its way down the battery cables.

get the harbor freight battery brush and clean it then spray it with the stuff that stops battery corrosion

[Sparling]

It's nasty, but put a little grease on it once you clean it up. Has always worked well for me. Just how bad are the terminal ends? May be time to replace them.

The terminals look fine, I cleaned them last week pretty well and tightened the piss out of them. I think it might be time for a new battery, the one in there shouldn't be used in anything with more than 4 cylinders. Anybody have objections to the big duralast gold batteries?

[Hot Pocket]

The terminals look fine, I cleaned them last week pretty well and tightened the piss out of them. I think it might be time for a new battery, the one in there shouldn't be used in anything with more than 4 cylinders. Anybody have objections to the big duralast gold batteries?

Overpriced. Get a cheapo walmart one with a lifetime warranty. 90 bucks, no questions asked on returns

[mudtoy67]

Overpriced. Get a cheapo walmart one with a lifetime warranty. 90 bucks, no questions asked on returns

Which comes in handy because you'll typically end up returning those batteries once a year. ;)

I've always been told to avoid electrical items including batteries from Autozone like the plague. I don't remember having any personal experience with this, but I once helped someone install an Autozone heater core that exploded within a week.

I used to use the Walmart batteries because of the price and ease of warranty, but found myself replacing batteries about once a year. I have had good luck with Oreilly's and Napa batteries. I've got an Oreilly's battery in the XJ right now that regularly gets discharged to nil (Braden likes to play in the jeep and always does something like leave the lights on :) ) and it has been coming back just fine.

[TdmayfieldIV]

I bought a used battery from advance and it has lasted me a year so far. I paid $70 for it but it is the top of the line one that they sell. I have discharged it to nothing countless times and it keeps on ticking.

[TexTJ209]

Which comes in handy because you'll typically end up returning those batteries once a year. ;)

I've always been told to avoid electrical items including batteries from Autozone like the plague. I don't remember having any personal experience with this, but I once helped someone install an Autozone heater core that exploded within a week.

I used to use the Walmart batteries because of the price and ease of warranty, but found myself replacing batteries about once a year. I have had good luck with Oreilly's and Napa batteries. I've got an Oreilly's battery in the XJ right now that regularly gets discharged to nil (Braden likes to play in the jeep and always does something like leave the lights on :) ) and it has been coming back just fine.

I just avoid Autozone like the plague in general. :gigem:


Had good luck with O'Reilly's batteries as well.

[Sparling]

Would it be worth it for a DD/occasional light wheeler to do a D44 SAS? If tommy is going with tons or rocks, I can get his 44 from him and put it under this without too much work.

[TdmayfieldIV]

sure you can buy it from me. It has 4:10 gears so you might as well buy the 9" too:gigem:

[Sparling]

Or I could just get the 44 and not the 9" and then put gears to match my 8.8 so I don't get worse gas mileage.

[Sparling]

Not to mention that your 9" has no place for my speed sensor on it so I wouldn't have a working speedo since my tranny doesn't have a place for one either.

[KrazyKarl02]

A 8.8 and TTB 44 will handle 33" tires all day long and 35's with some difficulties. How big do you want to go with this truck.

Myself personally, I would not do a SAS for a 44, I would only spend the cash to do a solid axle if it was a 60. atleast 1/3rd of the cost is putting the solid axle in a TTB truck.

[Sparling]

I'm not going any bigger, just higher, about 2" higher than what it is right now. If the TTB can handle skinny 33s all day then there's no reason to SAS.

[RCcola55]

my ttb handled 37's for quite a while, it was the 8.8 i blew up

[Sparling]

Clarke how much you want for that 4" lift kit with no springs? And is it possible to lengthen the radius arms or should I just throw the drop brackets on and forget about it?

I don't want to swap to any axle that would give me anything other than 5X5.5" bolt pattern. I spent too much damn time finding a single alloy wheel to match the three that my truck came with.

Edit: also looking into disk brake swap for the 8.8 if anybody knows a solid method. Apparently 05-06 Econolines and E-150's came with disk brake 8.8's with the 5X5.5" bolt pattern, but I doubt I'll find one of those for something I'd be willing to spend.

Also have plans to do the F-350 brake booster and master cylinder swap. My brakes suck huge donkey dick. Worse than those terrible looking front AK grips.

[KrazyKarl02]

People have lengthened the radius arms, but for a truck that sees a fair amount of street use I would not trust them. I would put the drop down brackets on and call it a day.

[Seth]

my truck with 4.10s and 35s got 13 on the highway. 3.55s and 35s i got 15 once on 55-65 mph two lanes. The power with the 4.10s and less strain on trans were nice though. one thing that helped my mileage as much as anything was correcting the speedo so the truck's comp knew true sped.

I've got 3.55s for the front if you want/need them.

Not sure how 33s will be relative to 35s, but keep in mind that a gear swap doesnt hurt you mpg always.

[RCcola55]

pm me.

[Sparling]

Anybody know anything about hydroboosted brakes? That seems like a solid way to get really strong brakes. Mine currently suck and I can't come close to locking up 33s. What I'm wondering is exactly where you tap into the steering pump for the brake booster. Would it be a good idea to go with new parts or can I just get me some pick n pull parts?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I believe there are pumps out there that already have ports for it, but not completely sure about the fords. I have heard nothing but good things about it being done. One of these days I would like to add it, but will try and add it to the second pump I want to add for rear steer, so this project is still a long ways out.

[TdmayfieldIV]

I could be wrong here but I don't think you need to upgrade anything, just fix what is wrong. Doesn't your pedal go all the way to the floor randomly when you are driving without braking at all?

[Seth]

Get your current system in proper order, maybe do some tbird front calipers, rear discs.

[Sparling]

I could be wrong here but I don't think you need to upgrade anything, just fix what is wrong. Doesn't your pedal go all the way to the floor randomly when you are driving without braking at all?

No, my brakes work fine. The only thing wrong is there's a little air in the lines and it's squishy sometimes, otherwise my brakes are in perfect working order, they just aren't good enough. I just had the front brakes done last fall.

[Seth]

get the air out of the lines.

[bcolman]

like seth said get the air out, if there is air in the system the brakes will not function properly

[RCcola55]

I could be wrong here but I don't think you need to upgrade anything, just fix what is wrong. Doesn't your pedal go all the way to the floor randomly when you are driving without braking at all?

thats your brakes that do that!

Sparling, as everyone said get the air out and if you still arent happy you can switch to the f-350 booster and master cylinder

[Sharpe]

With a modded stock pump or a PSC unit, Pigpen can lock up all 4 tires up to ~35 MPH with an unmodified hydroboost and master cylinder. IMO, worth the investment but, not at this point in time for your truck.

[KrazyKarl02]

After bleeding also check to adjust the thing in your rear drum brakes. If this is not adjusted brakes can feel very soft. This happens in the klogger after deep water/mud crossings.

[TdmayfieldIV]

thats your brakes that do that!

Sparling, as everyone said get the air out and if you still arent happy you can switch to the f-350 booster and master cylinder

They have never done that to me. You just have to be a man to stop my truck:flipoff2:

They are that bad because
both rear drums are scored so bad that they'll hold pennies
both front disks are scored real bad too

believe me they are a ton better after new pads in the rear.

[JB]

pads go in front. shoes go in rear. Rockwells huh?

[Seth]

zing!

[RCcola55]

They have never done that to me. You just have to be a man to stop my truck:flipoff2:

They are that bad because
both rear drums are scored so bad that they'll hold pennies
both front disks are scored real bad too

believe me they are a ton better after new pads in the rear.

bignasty stopped better then that thing

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Did you put new pads on janked up rotors w/ out having them turned/replaced? Bad juju.

[Sparling]

I've got the d44 socket to get the hub off if you need it, I'd hate to see you grind all the way through your disks and run over some poor frat daddy.... On second thought, you aren't allowed to use it.

[TdmayfieldIV]

pads go in front. shoes go in rear. Rockwells huh?

you know what I meant:flipoff2:

haha, didn't even think about it............my bad, shoes

[TdmayfieldIV]

Did you put new pads on janked up rotors w/ out having them turned/replaced? Bad juju.

Yup, they are all so bad nobody will turn them so $60 for new disks (each) and $50 for each drum.

I already had the pads and shoes so I just said fawk it, they'll help for a little while till i go with won tons.

[Sparling]

Yup, they are all so bad nobody will turn them so $60 for new disks (each) and $50 for each drum.

I already had the pads and shoes so I just said fawk it, they'll help for a little while till i go with won tons.

Here's what I found, $30 for new disks (each) and $34 for each drum. So with the money you've saved by shopping on a lower shelf ($92) you could buy $18 pads and $17 shoes and save ~$57 dollars. Here's links :flipoff2:


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1979-Ford-Bronco/Brake-Drum-Rear/_/N-imjteZ8knp2

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Valucraft-Brake-Rotor-Front/1979-Ford-Bronco/_/N-imjteZ8knrq?counter=2&itemIdentifier=350671_20918_2708_

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Brake-Pads-Front/1979-Ford-Bronco/_/N-imjteZ8ko29?counter=2&itemIdentifier=90031_0_1610_

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1979-Ford-Bronco/Brake-Shoes-Rear/_/N-imjteZ8ko2c

[DRAGOONRANCH]

and not kill a **** ton of drunk fratboys crossing the road.

[TdmayfieldIV]

Sparling, Why are you up at 5:46 am? This is the time me and ed have to run the boards!

and why shouldn't I run over the frat boys?

[Sparling]

Sparling, Why are you up at 5:46 am? This is the time me and ed have to run the boards!

and why shouldn't I run over the frat boys?

I'm up because my family just left for Colorado at 4 this morning and I can't go back to sleep.

I said you couldn't borrow it which means you will have ****ty brakes which will hopefully lead to you running over frat daddys.

[Sharpe]

Just use a flap disk on a grinder to smooth out the rotors and drums.

[uglyota]

^^^nice! don't give out my flywheel/pressure plate resurfacing recipe!

check rockauto for those rotors and drums...good prices on chinese clap

[TdmayfieldIV]

Do it! I like the way the 92-96's swb looks when it's in the air.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs178.snc1/6692_106973334294_517154294_1999379_3099957_n.jpg

Paint matches too!

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Dick? We would never think you were being a dick...


Douche nozzle, maybe. :flipoff2:

[TdmayfieldIV]

I know thats why I edited it out before anyone saw it.

[Sparling]

Do it! I know it's not the same model as your bronco, but I think it'd be a great mod.

[uglyota]

what's orange and looks good on a ford? :D

[jerryg79]

what's orange and looks good on a ford? :D

hooters waitress?

[RCcola55]

Do it! I know it's not the same model as your bronco, but I think it'd be a great mod.

Lambo doors on the bronco? that could be tight...... oh wait, fire, ya i can start on that mod, sharpe is getting upset about it being in the driveway anyways.

[TdmayfieldIV]

I'm sorry. I told him i could put it at Travis' house and it would be out of the way but he said that it was fine to put it there. If he had a problem with it then he should have told me.

[Sharpe]

I just want to move it to the back yard. Lighten up, Fracis.

[RCcola55]

I'm sorry. I told him i could put it at Travis' house and it would be out of the way but he said that it was fine to put it there. If he had a problem with it then he should have told me.

Can i still do the fire mod? I heard real flames are the new hot thing, ask lan.... Nevermind TOO SOON!

[Sparling]

Moving talk about the truck in here. I'm not selling it or buying anything else, I like my truck too much, and talk is cheaper than getting a trail rig and deciding that was a bad idea later on down the road. Nothing is wrong with this truck, it may look rough but it's never left me stranded anywhere and I just wanted to make sure that if I started using this as a trail rig as well, that it would continue to be reliable.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

...and I just wanted to make sure that if I started using this as a trail rig as well, that it would continue to be reliable.

I think as long as you reserve your self to the fact that '**** breaks' and you will have to fix those things, you will be fine. If you don't want to work on it (or pay/beg to have someone do it for you), then it is a VERY bad idea. Lots of folks trailed their DD, but they also seemed to have to do a ton of wrenching and sourcing JY spare parts to keep them running. I know I am one of the worst examples in the club for stuff like this, but you can see the extremes I have had to take my truck to for me to feel that it will be reliable on the trail enough that I will be able to drive it back on the trailer at the end of the weekend. With a little smarts on the trail, and plenty of preparation before hand (parts/tools/PMCS (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PMCS)) you will be just fine I believe.

Do you have a reliable temp gauge for your transmission? This is the first step in maintaining an auto. Waiting till it says it's too hot by puking half the fluid out of a seal/weep hole is not the desired method to keeping the temp in check. In stockish form, if it's getting hot just driving 70 down the highway, then you have enough problems that a bigger cooler and deeper pan will solve.

[Sparling]

If you don't want to work on it (or pay/beg to have someone do it for you), then it is a VERY bad idea.

Do you have a reliable temp gauge for your transmission? This is the first step in maintaining an auto. Waiting till it says it's too hot by puking half the fluid out of a seal/weep hole is not the desired method to keeping the temp in check. In stockish form, if it's getting hot just driving 70 down the highway, then you have enough problems that a bigger cooler and deeper pan will solve.

Wrenching I don't mind at all, I've rebuilt pretty much everything on my Mustang and done a fair amount of work on my truck. I'm definitely not scared to tear into something to fix it. And if something breaks, then it can sit in Lot 40 until I can fix it, as long as I can go home at the end of the semester, I live on campus so it's not that big of a deal for it to sit a while.

I don't have a trans temp gauge on it yet but that's one of the things I'm going to do as soon as I get a paycheck. I think the only reason the first transmission went out was because I was just wailing on it at soggy bottom. That's when I first noticed the problems. I'm definitely going to keep an eye on this one and not let it get hot. That is until I put a stick shift in.

[TdmayfieldIV]

. I think the only reason the first transmission went out was because I was just wailing on it at soggy bottom.

I think that's why my trans is slipping so much now.:angry:

[Sharpe]

Between TAMOR and your fellow CT's I dont see you having too much trouble getting a ride to the parts store if your **** breaks down in town. ****ing **** up on a trip would require a little more preparation on your part, such as sourcing some basic spare parts like u-joints, axle shafts and driveshafts to take with you to make sure you can get home. The biggest requirement to get **** fixed (especially in a hurry, i.e. when returning from a trip) is MONEY. Set aside a decent chunk of change to be your emergency fix-it fund. Your parents will lose patience with your wheelin habbit prety quickly if you have to call them to borrow money after every trip. Do not use this fund for upgrades or anything that isnt immediately necessary to get home.

[uglyota]

Set aside a decent chunk of change to be your emergency fix-it fund. Your parents will lose patience with your wheelin habbit prety quickly if you have to call them to borrow money after every trip. Do not use this fund for upgrades or anything that isnt immediately necessary to get home.

repairs or beer. It's okay to spend the emergency fund on beer


(hey you, yeah you with the logic over there, what are you doing here? Get out!)

[85cj7]

Set aside a decent chunk of change to be your emergency fix-it fund. Do not use this fund for upgrades or anything that isnt immediately necessary to get home.

Good advice. How did this work out for you?:flipoff2:

[agjohn02]

Good advice. How did this work out for you?:flipoff2:

He spent it all on guns that don't work.:flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

Good advice. How did this work out for you?:flipoff2:

Neither Pigpen nor my Suburban have ever remained broken due to insufficient funds so lick sack.

[jerryg79]

Good advice. How did this work out for you?:flipoff2:

why did you delete all the original prices out of your truck sale thread?

[TdmayfieldIV]

why did you delete all the original prices out of your truck sale thread?

I was wondering that too

[Seth]

shady mcdooshershin

[Sharpe]

Wtf Sparling??

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/pts/1857207785.html

[jerryg79]

Wtf Sparling??

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/pts/1857207785.html

busted!

[agjohn02]

Wtf Sparling??

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/pts/1857207785.html

not like he marked them up. your girlfriend has pretty hands, sharpe.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11593&highlight=tsl

[jerryg79]

not like he marked them up. your girlfriend has pretty hands, sharpe.

http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11593&highlight=tsl

george costanza pre-burn injuries?

[RCcola55]

that bitch! i coulda used those

[Sharpe]

I wasnt accusing him of anything I just want to know the situation with the truck.

[Sparling]

My dad got mad and said I was turning his house into a junk yard because I have a few parts floating around the house. Not selling them just making it look like I'm trying. My dad is too high class for a stack of tires on the side of the house. I have to put my trans and engine in the bed of my truck too so they don't clutter up his garage. I ain't gettin rid of the tires. I'm using them. He also hates my truck because the hood doesn't match and he says it makes us look like trailer trash. I'm not allowed to back it in the driveway so nobody can see the hood. I also have to power wash the driveway anytime I spill anything on it.

[jerryg79]

My dad got mad and said I was turning his house into a junk yard because I have a few parts floating around the house. Not selling them just making it look like I'm trying. My dad is too high class for a stack of tires on the side of the house. I have to put my trans and engine in the bed of my truck too so they don't clutter up his garage. I ain't gettin rid of the tires. I'm using them. He also hates my truck because the hood doesn't match and he says it makes us look like trailer trash. I'm not allowed to back it in the driveway so nobody can see the hood. I also have to power wash the driveway anytime I spill anything on it.

is your dad named clyde alfred sparling?

[RCcola55]

are u sure he is YOUR father?

[colman]

sounds like my dad...

[agjohn02]

sounds like my dad...

I'm sure he's completely unreasonable.

[Sparling]

are u sure he is YOUR father?

yeah, he's my dad, he just preaches about how he spent his time being poor and doesn't want to be reminded of it. I can kinda see where he's coming from but I only have a couple of things floating around. Even if my Mustang wasn't in the garage they still couldn't use it because everything else at the house doesn't fit in there with the way it's set up.

[KrazyKarl02]

is your dad named clyde alfred sparling?

:gigem:

[85cj7]

My dad got mad and said I was turning his house into a junk yard because I have a few parts floating around the house. Not selling them just making it look like I'm trying. My dad is too high class for a stack of tires on the side of the house. I have to put my trans and engine in the bed of my truck too so they don't clutter up his garage. I ain't gettin rid of the tires. I'm using them. He also hates my truck because the hood doesn't match and he says it makes us look like trailer trash. I'm not allowed to back it in the driveway so nobody can see the hood. I also have to power wash the driveway anytime I spill anything on it.

Are you sure you and hotpocket don't share a father?

[colman]

ok my dad is great, i can't have ANYTHING in houston but he still hasn't killed me so all is well

[Sharpe]

Not selling them just making it look like I'm trying.

Nice :gigem: As far as the hood not matching, a few cans of $0.96 wal-mart spray paint will at least make the truck one color and will last for awhile before/if you decide to paint it a little fancier.

[Sparling]

Nice :gigem: As far as the hood not matching, a few cans of $0.96 wal-mart spray paint will at least make the truck one color and will last for awhile before/if you decide to paint it a little fancier.

I think I'll stick with the rolled on flat black for a while. I don't mind it.

[85cj7]

this sh*t is way too gay to be in the projects forum, mods move this cr*p to the kitchen.

[Sparling]

this sh*t is way too gay to be in the projects forum, mods move this cr*p to the kitchen.

Don't you have some Australian gay bar to go get drunk at?

[stx4wheeler]

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1888012211.html

paging sparling paging sparling zf-5 speed for small block.

[Sparling]

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1888012211.html

paging sparling paging sparling zf-5 speed for small block.

I asked about it but I'm pretty sure it was already gone, as I never got any response.

The cable that goes to the hood latch to the hood release inside snapped on my truck, not sure how it happened but I guess I get to go pillage and plunder pick n pull when I get a chance. Also think this thing is going to be named the red october.

[Sparling]

Got a new starter, battery and terminals for it. Next I'm looking at either tons or a cage. I got book money from the army so if I spend as little as possible on school stuff/borrow whatever I can, then I should be able to get a front and rear axle that I can leave aside and collect parts for rebuilding them. So if anybody has a sterling 10.25 with the speed sensor hole in the top or a D60 for it, let me know.

[RCcola55]

just go to a damn junkyard and find the sterling, they are everywhere

[Sparling]

http://picknpullsa.com/parts.html

They charge 200 for a 1 ton rear, not only could I get one for less somewhere else, but I probably wouldn't have to pull it either. Colman's got one for $100 but he won't answer PM's.

[AggieTJ2007]

yeah one of the yards here has rear ends for $50

pick and pull won't charge you 200 if you came out of something old or way too plentiful

[Fredo]

won't charge you 200 if you came out of something old or way too plentiful


Eh....too easy. :flipoff2:

[Sparling]

yeah one of the yards here has rear ends for $50

pick and pull won't charge you 200 if you came out of something old or way too plentiful

The sterling has to have the speed sensor on it which rules out anything old, and the 200 is what's listed on their website so...

[RCcola55]

they put VSS in them from 92 on, they are everywhere!

[85cj7]

Awesome auto in Dallas advertising $40 for any rearend they will try to mess with you on that though. I'm sure any major city (houston, SA, austin, dallas/fw) has tens of places just like awesome auto. Super cheap. Take a hacksaw and some bolt cutter and go get an axle. Flem and I picked a 9" for $35 I think, and I know he also got a rover rear end there for cheap.

[Sparling]

they put VSS in them from 92 on, they are everywhere!

I'm not seeing it clarke...

[RCcola55]

:rolleyes:

[Sparling]

I'm not worried about finding one and I'm not in a hurry at all.

[Sharpe]

TX4x4, craigslist, and pirate if you are too lazy to hit up the junkyards.

[KrazyKarl02]

they put VSS in them from 92 on, they are everywhere!

It is either 93 or 94 up they made the yoke spline a little longer and that is slightly more desirable.

[RCcola55]

ya i couldnt remember what yr it was, i know mine was a 93 since it had the long pinion, but i think the vss was in the axle before that

[sasquatch]

mine is an 88 and it has a vss.


So if anybody has a sterling 10.25 with the speed sensor hole in the top or a D60 for it, let me know.

no one has **** to just give away to you. go out find your own.

[KrazyKarl02]

I had a sterling, but I sold it the guy who ran Spring Creek for $60.

[Sparling]

no one has **** to just give away to you. go out find your own.

Jesus Christ, I wasn't asking for **** for free go reread for comprehension or something. 3rd grade usually teaches people **** like that, I guess it didn't stick for you. I also wasn't asking where to get them, I know where to get axles.

[BroncoJo]

Jesus Christ, I wasn't asking for **** for free go reread for comprehension or something. 3rd grade usually teaches people **** like that, I guess it didn't stick for you. I also wasn't asking where to get them, I know where to get axles.

Cook will crush you


Play nice or I can move this to the kitchen.

[FJAggie07]

Jesus Christ, I wasn't asking for **** for free go reread for comprehension or something. 3rd grade usually teaches people **** like that, I guess it didn't stick for you. I also wasn't asking where to get them, I know where to get axles.

Will somebody go kick this guy in the junk and pull his head out of his ass. People can give you a hard time. Deal with it.

[colman]

ive got it call corey andpick it up

[RCcola55]

So if anybody has a sterling 10.25 with the speed sensor hole in the top or a D60 for it, let me know.

maybe you should reread for yourself, looks to me and everyone else that you are asking someone else to do the leg work for you. stop being a ***** and go buy $50 axle from a junkyard like normal people.

[TdmayfieldIV]

So you have a potential trail rig but your doing a 1 ton swap on your dd?

[stx4wheeler]

So you have a potential trail rig but your doing a 1 ton swap on your dd?

You have room to make fun of someone elses dumb ideas.

[Sparling]

maybe you should reread for yourself, looks to me and everyone else that you are asking someone else to do the leg work for you. stop being a ***** and go buy $50 axle from a junkyard like normal people.

Nah, it sounds like I was just stating that I would be buying some, and if anybody had any they wanted to sell, then to let me know. But w/e. I thought the junkyard thing was covered and that SA didn't have any cheap junk yards like dallas does, but w/e.


So you have a potential trail rig but your doing a 1 ton swap on your dd?

yeah, but I don't have a place to keep it in CS and don't want to rely on other people so I'm just going to use my DD.

[TdmayfieldIV]

You have room to make fun of someone elses dumb ideas.

I don't go through with my dumb ideas though

[Sparling]

I don't go through with my dumb ideas though

he said you have room, so go ahead and make fun of peoples stupid ideas

[mudtoy67]

http://collegestation.craigslist.org/pts/1944558920.html

He's crazy on price for just gears and housing...

[Sparling]

Can Somebody with a 92 to 96 look and see what all is grounded on the passenger fender and how many wires come off of the post right in front of the solenoid?

[BroncoJo]

Can Somebody with a 92 to 96 look and see what all is grounded on the passenger fender and how many wires come off of the post right in front of the solenoid?

Why?

[breckboarder55]

You don't have an FSM or Haynes?

You should be able to find an online version.

[Sparling]

You don't have an FSM or Haynes?

You should be able to find an online version.

Yeah I do, but it doesn't show what grounds where, just that some stuff in the circuit grounds somewhere.

[Sparling]

My truck still won't run, and I'm not sure what to do. It has a new battery, coil, and distributor and still isn't getting any spark to the plugs. I had the ignition control module checked and it tested fine. Anybody have any ideas for what i can check on sunday when I go out to the farm again to work on it? The truck ran when I loaded it onto a trailer to take it out to the farm but once it was at the farm, it wouldn't start anymore. KOEO test throws a 111 code and that's it.

[Sharpe]

Checked every milimeter of wiring including the pigtails? What brand of electrical components did you use? Duralast sucks dick and should not ever be considered an option...unless you're stranded.

[Sparling]

The coil is from advance and the distributor is a remanned unit from autozone. Checked the wiring and the only thing I could find was the coil connector was fubar'ed so I just took the wires out and put them directly on the coil. They had spade connectors from inside the connector on them already.

[stx4wheeler]

Did you stab the distributor in the right spot.

[robertf03]

so no spark, right?

put a test light on an injector and see if it blinks

[Sparling]

Did you stab the distributor in the right spot.

Shouldn't matter, there's no spark at all, but it was marked on the plastic part that goes on top of the distributor that the cap attaches to.


so no spark, right?

put a test light on an injector and see if it blinks

I'll try that in the morning.

[KrazyKarl02]

Sometimes the spark is hard to see. Spray some starter fluid in it. If it kind of goes over with starter fluid, it is sparking. Also check the relays, there is one for the computer, fuel pump, etc... I have wiring diagrams for your truck on the computer if you need them.

[Sparling]

Got it running, did the brakes and put in a F350 vacuum booster. Turns out there was a short in the wires near the ICM. Just finished the brakes so I haven't driven it to see how much it helped, but the pedal feels way more firm than before. Anything is an improvement over the old brakes. Also have a real bad exhaust leak at the passenger side manifold, might find some used headers to put on there, and a muffler.

I think the next things I'm going to do is finish painting it and hurculine the bed and the floor inside, then paint the hurculine inside gray to match the old carpet color. Has anybody done roll on liner inside? I was thinking 4 layers so it's real thick.

[TdmayfieldIV]

I did one layer. Its way too thin, I needed to do 3.

[stx4wheeler]

Get gray herculiner so you don't have to paint it.

[TexTJ209]

Herculiner sucks anyways.

[sam_hodnett]

Herculiner does suck, just save up some money and pay someone to put a decent liner in, it will be worth the money

[RCcola55]

i did herculiner in the inside of my bronco, lots of prep and it held up great, but for a bed get a good spray in liner

[Sparling]

Not related to any smog pump shenanigans (I'm leaving it in), but my battery was dead this morning, so I got out the test light and pulled fuses and noted which ones dimmed the light. Number 9 in the power distribution box (electronic engine control system, fuel pump relay coil) and number 13 in the regular fuse panel (stop/hazard lamps, stop sense for electronic engine control, abs, "Keep alive memory", electronic engine control, speed control) are the ones that in combination got the test light to just about turn off. Would a loose connector to the Ignition Control Module cause the battery to drain overnight? The connector was replaced last week and if the connector are in just the right position, the engine will die.

[Seth]

Test your battery? The cold weather is hard on them.

[Sparling]

Happened with 2 batteries and the stupid light comes on for voltage. I got a new connector and am putting it on after my sisters basketball game.

[Sparling]

Picked up some manual swap parts today, pedals, transmission access hole cover, the little cover for the guages so it won't say PRND21 anymore, and a few other small parts. Would it be okay to just take off the automatic shifter arm and put the manual steering column cover over it, and not swap the whole steering column? And would hydraulic clutch (master and slave cylinders) be alright used or would it be better new?

[85cj7]

Picked up some manual swap parts today, pedals, transmission access hole cover, the little cover for the guages so it won't say PRND21 anymore, and a few other small parts. Would it be okay to just take off the automatic shifter arm and put the manual steering column cover over it, and not swap the whole steering column? And would hydraulic clutch (master and slave cylinders) be alright used or would it be better new?

you can buy the master and slave used and then just buy the much cheaper rebuild kits from the local auto part store. It basically replaces all the internals of both while keeping the cheaper used body/housings.

[colman]

you can leave the column. just make shure it is in neutral so you can steer when you take the things out.

[Sparling]

Here's the parts list I've thought through as far as new parts for my manual swap.
Flywheel: OE replacement from summit (external balance, 11 inch clutch, 167 tooth)
Pilot bearing: National Brand from Oreillys
Throwout bearing: National Brand from Oreillys
Clutch: Centerforce LMC 11 inch from summit
Pressure plate: Zoom brand 11 inch from summit

Anybody know of anything up there that has a reputation of poor quality or that it won't work in this application?

[RCcola55]

centerforce clutches have a rep for being very on or off, zoom clutches arent too bad, but for you apllication i would just go with a performance parts store clutch. Also, from what i have read if you have the option, get the largest dia. clutch you can.

[robertf03]

what transmission are you putting in?

[Sparling]

centerforce clutches have a rep for being very on or off, zoom clutches arent too bad, but for you apllication i would just go with a performance parts store clutch. Also, from what i have read if you have the option, get the largest dia. clutch you can.

11 inch is the biggest clutch I could find


what transmission are you putting in?

The mazda 5 speed or the ZF. I just want to keep overdrive since I do a lot of highway miles. If I swap a M5OD in, then a ZF would be an afternoon swap, I'd just need a new crossmember so I could easily do that down the road. One of the write ups I read said a ZF swap could use the same driveshafts as an E4OD so there wouldn't be the added cost of lengthening or shortening anything.

Where are the junkyards in the BCS area? If they're open tomorrow I'm going to go look to see if they have anything.

[BroncoJo]

Do it right the first time

[robertf03]

I had to change driveshats going from aod to zf, but that was 2wd

[mudtoy67]

I had the centerforce clutch (clutch and pressure plate afaik...not sure why you're ordering them separate) in front of the mazda 5 spd on my 95 F150. It was a great clutch, and took a beating over several years of highway and mudding, and a couple trips to llano river. It was a bit tighter than the stock clutch, but I wouldn't call it "on/off".

[Sparling]

Whatever goes in is staying until after college at least. My truck is standard cab short bed with a weak 5.0 so the transmission shouldn't see much abuse.

[KrazyKarl02]

Here's the parts list I've thought through as far as new parts for my manual swap.
Flywheel: OE replacement from summit (external balance, 11 inch clutch, 167 tooth)
Pilot bearing: National Brand from Oreillys
Throwout bearing: National Brand from Oreillys
Clutch: Centerforce LMC 11 inch from summit
Pressure plate: Zoom brand 11 inch from summit

Anybody know of anything up there that has a reputation of poor quality or that it won't work in this application?

You mentioned you were going to get a master/slave set up from the junk yard, if not you need to put that on your list plus the hose that goes in between them (the hose is like $30 at O'reilly's)

For my money, I would just buy a pressure plate and clutch from O'reilly's, it's easier to take back if it is wrong and probably cheaper. BDR had a good experience with his centerforce, but I have heard of people having problems. I myself would do not think they are much better and just more complicated.

As for the M5OD vs the ZF, the ZF is obviously the stronger and better trans, it will have steel synchros for first where the Mazda will be brass. Another thing to consider is the Mazda has an internal clutch slave cylinder where as I believe the ZF is external, this means if it goes out the ZF you can just change, the mazda you have to pull the trans.

[mudtoy67]

The mazda trans I had was fine. I rebuilt it once cause I lost second gear, which turned out to be unnecessary because it just needed a shifter bushing. Since I already had the trans out, I went ahead with it. For all the beating I had done the brass on the synchros still looked new. I would have been comforatble wheeling that trans a lot longer.

For the price a ZF goes for I could never justify the swap. Since you're buying a trans anyway, you could go either way.

[mudtoy67]

Couple other things from Karl's post...

Don't get junkyard clutch master/slave. You'll just end up kicking yourself when you replace them early. It's just not worth the few bucks you save. ESPECIALLY don't get a used slave if you go with the mazda trans. A new interal slave is worth the cost versus having to drop the trans again.

I did have good luck with the Centerforce. That being said, when I rebuilt the trans I went back with a LUK brand clutch. There a bit cheaper and I'm told they make Centerforce's clutch plates anyway.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

The Centerforce 'Dual Friction' is what I had with the 350, and it was very hard to keep it from being an 'on/off' switch at times. The Centerforce II I have behind the 454 now is much better. Easier pedal and not nearly as 'grabby'.

I don't know what the cost difference would be between an O'Reilys and Centerforce to say if the cost would be justified in the increased quality. For a tired, small'ish' engine, I don't know that I would spend the extra on the centerforce unless it was very close in price to the parts house brand. The way that I 'build' things is way off base with everyone else doing the vast majority of the work for me nowdays, as it's much easier to drop an order at summit than head to the parts store to grab stuff. :D

[Sparling]

I guess I'm looking at rebuilding the E4OD. I'm going to order a service manual for the transmission, and a rebuild kit from somewhere. I was looking at the TCI kit, I read some posts on different forums saying their stuff was good with the diesel crowd of E4OD users. Anybody have any other suggestions? I already have an almost brand new torque converter that I'll be trading in on warranty when I have the transmission out just so I can have a brand new one with no dirt from sitting at my farm for 6 months. I don't think I'm going to do any of the regular upgrades people do with the E4OD except maybe a solenoid pack and a shift kit.

[BroncoJo]

I guess I'm looking at rebuilding the E4OD. I'm going to order a service manual for the transmission, and a rebuild kit from somewhere. I was looking at the TCI kit, I read some posts on different forums saying their stuff was good with the diesel crowd of E4OD users. Anybody have any other suggestions? I already have an almost brand new torque converter that I'll be trading in on warranty when I have the transmission out just so I can have a brand new one with no dirt from sitting at my farm for 6 months. I don't think I'm going to do any of the regular upgrades people do with the E4OD except maybe a solenoid pack and a shift kit.

What happen to the 5-speed swap?

[JB]

I have a C6 or sale if you don't need OD

[stx4wheeler]

John see the 4 sale section I replied to you.

[JB]

I have a C6 or sale if you don't need OD

Nevermind

[Sparling]

What happen to the 5-speed swap?

I'm tired of chasing them. They are out there but it seems like every time I find one, I can't get to it fast enough and it's sold. I eventually want to swap to a 460, so I'll just do a 5 speed swap then.

[Sparling]

Anybody know if anything else would be required for a rebuild if I got this kit?

http://racerxusa.com//product_info.php?cPath=84&products_id=55

I'm also going to add a bigger cooler with new lines that sits in front of the radiator, an external cooler and a transmission temp gauge.

[Sparling]

I just got my rebuild kit at the door. There are way more parts than I expected in the box. Anybody know an auto transmission shop that might charge me real little for them to use the three specialized tools you need for this transmission? I've read that they can be built but I'd rather have the right tool and get this done right.

[BroncoJo]

I just got my rebuild kit at the door. There are way more parts than I expected in the box. Anybody know an auto transmission shop that might charge me real little for them to use the three specialized tools you need for this transmission? I've read that they can be built but I'd rather have the right tool and get this done right.

If you wanted it done right you should have had one shop do the whole thing.

[Sparling]

Well I guess I didn't want it done right, because I didn't use any specialized tools.

[Sparling]

http://towrigsandtrailers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131

I'm thinking about going this route for disk brakes. Seems like it shouldn't be too hard. I'm going to start with a chevy caliper and print the diagram out and resize it so the holes are in the right place then the scale should be good.

[stx4wheeler]

Drum brakes work pretty good on a 8-9k pound f-350. I bet they will work lots better on your 6-7k truck. Seriously you can buy alot of brake pads for 4-5 hundred bones. Also, lots of people bitch about how crappy the e-brake on the eldorado calipers works.

I'm sure you know this as well, but you might end up needing to get a new/ adjustable proportioning valve as well.

[Sparling]

Drum brakes work pretty good on a 8-9k pound f-350. I bet they will work lots better on your 6-7k truck. Seriously you can buy alot of brake pads for 4-5 hundred bones. Also, lots of people bitch about how crappy the e-brake on the eldorado calipers works.

I'm sure you know this as well, but you might end up needing to get a new/ adjustable proportioning valve as well.

I'm not using eldorado calipers, I've read too much about them leaking a lot. It'll probably cost less than 200 for this, maybe 250. I've also read and heard, that disk brakes are the best way to go on a sterling.

[Sharpe]

If you are going to drive this on the street, you need to get it inspected. If you are going to get it inspected, you need an e-brake. Disk brakes work great and are easy but the e-brake situation is a pain in the ass. You can run a High Angle Driveline t-case e-brake but depending on what you already have, that could cost up to $500 (output flange, e-brake shiz, and driveshaft flange yoke). I would stick with drums unless you budget in a t-case e-brake.

[JB]

Drum brakes work pretty good on a 8-9k pound f-350. I bet they will work lots better on your 6-7k truck. Seriously you can buy alot of brake pads for 4-5 hundred bones. Also, lots of people bitch about how crappy the e-brake on the eldorado calipers works.

I'm sure you know this as well, but you might end up needing to get a new/ adjustable proportioning valve as well.

My Sterling drums sucked and getting them wet or muddy made them not last long. Rear discs and the 1 ton booster was one of the best mods I have done. I bought the kit and am pretty sure I didnt spend near $500. Havent touched them since.

On the flip side, Cook still has drums and says he has had few problems.

E-brake is going to be your issue.

[KrazyKarl02]

The klogger has a sterling, it sees a lot of water/mud. It does not have the auto adjust stuff in it anymore. Every trip I go turn the starwheel with a screw driver and have no issues. I have had the same pads on there for about 3 years. (granted this equates to 200 miles of driving....)

[Sparling]

If you are going to drive this on the street, you need to get it inspected. If you are going to get it inspected, you need an e-brake. Disk brakes work great and are easy but the e-brake situation is a pain in the ass. You can run a High Angle Driveline t-case e-brake but depending on what you already have, that could cost up to $500 (output flange, e-brake shiz, and driveshaft flange yoke). I would stick with drums unless you budget in a t-case e-brake.

I'll get it inspected with the 8.8 then I have a year if I do it on time to figure out an e-brake. I have a line lock sitting in my tool box, I know you aren't supposed to use them for long periods, but would it suffice for an inspection or do you have to have a mechanical e-brake?

[Sharpe]

It technically is supposed to be mechanical but finding someone to pass it with a linelock probably wouldnt be too hard.

[stx4wheeler]

Finding places to pass janky stuff is getting harder and harder to find these days so keep that in mind.

[85cj7]

Take my advice and keep an emergency brake for as long as you are going to drive on the road. I cut the cable going to mine when I went SOA because it was hindering flex. For three years I had to beg people to drive with me down to their buddies shops and friends of friends type situations to get it passed. It sucked and took way too much time and effort. Now of course I am an antique vehicle so I don't have to worry about inspections but that's my two cents.

[JB]

quicker sticker would pass it with a line lock.

[85cj7]

I'm pretty positive that TxDPS requires it to be a mechanical emergency brake but some mechanics will pass it with a line lock. Not supposed to but I guess they see no harm in it while others stick to the book.

[RCcola55]

Now of course I am an antique vehicle so I don't have to worry about inspections but that's my two cents.

you still have to pass the safety inspection.

[85cj7]

you still have to pass the safety inspection.

"Vehicles registered as "Antiques" are exempted from the annual inspection. To see the restrictions on the use of antiques or to obtain more information on how to register your vehicle as an "Antique", see the TxDOT website."

No inspection, I just have to re-register it every 5 years.

[Shaggy]

Austin got the frawg with a bungie cord putting tension on the factory lever. It is standard and didn't roll on flat ground so they passed him.

[BroncoJo]

Let's keep this on topic

[Seth]

Certainly Antique license plates could not be considered on topic in a thread about a 93 model pickup?!

[Deluxe]

quicker sticker would pass it with a line lock.

I hate that place

[MR.ZAP]

I hate that place

Did they not pass your JK?

[Deluxe]

Did they not pass your JK?

Ehh long story short is I called and asked if it mattered if my doors were on before I came up there, otherwise I'd put em on. They told me no it didn't, no problem. Of course, I get up there and the manager starts bitching at me that I took off the doors because illegal tint. He didn't just say he couldnt pass it, he sat there and literally argued and accused me that my tints were illegal and how I should go get my doors and come up there to try amd pass them. Even asked him why id tint my fronts darker than my hardtop and he was like we both know your fronts are illegal, otherwise you wouldnt have the doors off( on a 70 degree day). I told him I'd go get them and take it somewhere else :flipoff2:

[Fredo]

You can't even have tint as dark as your hardtop on the fronts. I can't remember what the percentage is for "legal" front window tint, but it is lighter than you'd think and for some reason, inspection stations have started to be real pricks about this. I'm a bit worried about my Tahoe coming up on inspection in April. The front windows are just as dark as the back ones.

As far as Quicker Sticker goes, that place used to rock. I used to take my camaro there to get it inspected. I would tell the guy that I preferred that he didn't drive my car, and he'd said, "Cool, take me for a ride."

[JB]

my 04 has the front windows tinted to match the rears. Maybe 20%?? Thye past it no questions Oct 2010

[JB]

my 10 has the fronts tinted from the factory(or more likely the dealer) and they match the rears perfect, but its got to be around 20%.....not sure how I could be denied an inspection with that.

[TdmayfieldIV]

Sparling just get Colorado plates. No inspection:gigem:

[Sparling]

And not be able to buy guns here?

[Sparling]

Can anybody with a high angle driveline brake take a picture of the mount and the caliper?

[TdmayfieldIV]

And not be able to buy guns here?

Only handguns

[Sparling]

Did you really buy a mosin? Want to go shoot after big event?

[Sparling]

It's looking pretty full!

[sam_hodnett]

LMFAO, and Nice!

[Sharpe]

Again, what the **** were yall pressing in in the door frame? TH400's do not require anything to be pressed together so I'm interested in finding out which part of your trans is going to fail first :flipoff2:

[Sparling]

There's a return spring in the middle of the case that needs to be compressed so you can get a bolt in from the bottom and a snap ring around it so it stays in place. I didn't bother buying the tool to do it so a high lift was used to push down on it so I could get the snap ring around it.

First picture is the spring itself and the second is the tool you're supposed to use.

[Sparling]

If this transmission doesn't work it's probably going to be the front pump or the solenoid pack. The early E4OD's didn't make enough pressure inside the trans to keep everything from slipping. If everything works alright I'm going to drop the pan again and add an aftermarket valve body for firmer shifts.

[AggieTJ2007]

that tool looks like it would have been easy to make

[bcolman]

that tool looks like it would have been easy to make

thats what it looks like to me too

[Sparling]

It was even easier not to make it and still get the job done with no problems.

[Hot Pocket]

Again, what the **** were yall pressing in in the door frame? TH400's do not require anything to be pressed together so I'm interested in finding out which part of your trans is going to fail first :flipoff2:


It was even easier not to make it and still get the job done with no problems.

Where's the smiley with the guy eating popcorn? :flipoff2:

[Sparling]

Well, it's full, and I don't have any extra parts.

A couple of tips for anybody rebuilding one of these;
Buy the ASTM manual
Make friends with somebody who has the special tools needed for this transmission, it's doable without the tools, but it's probably way easier with them
If the pump won't seat into the case, loosen the bolts holding the pump together, take the seals off of the pump and set it in there, pick it up making sure the 2 halves don't move and tighten the bolts then set it in there again to make sure it seats and then put the seals on and seat it in the case for the last time
Don't rebuild it in your second story apartment
Take pictures of where all the check balls are before you let them all fall out
Don't let anybody tell you it's too hard
When a part has UP on it, it doesn't mean how it would sit when in the truck

Here's 2 write ups with pictures to aid your ASTM manual.
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/projects/e4od/index.htm
http://www.fourdoorbronco.com/board/showthread.php?6883-E4OD-rebuild

I might put it in Saturday but I still have to run some new lines to the cooler and figure out how to mount my temp sensor.

[mudtoy67]

Good deal.:gigem:

[colman]

on your disc brake axle thing why don't you go buy a late model factory disc brake axle. probably alot cheaper than gettign a drive line brake and a disc conversion....

[Sparling]

Metric sucks

[bcolman]

find a dodge or chevy axle then