'93 F-150 build

[Sparling]

Don't have the speed sensor in it. I'm really not worried about it. It's not a big deal.

[stx4wheeler]

Cool, good luck on the trans once its installed!!

[Sparling]

The transmission and either a 4 or 6 inch (probably 4) lift will go in this weekend. Next on the list is getting the sterling in and converting the front to 8 lug so I don't need 2 spares. My current driveshaft setup has a slip at the transfer case and a flange at the rear end. The sterling has a 1350 yoke on it so I need a way to get my driveshaft onto the sterling. I can either take the flange off and use a conversion u joint or put a new 1350 tube yoke on the driveshaft and just a regular 1350 u joint on it. Thoughts? The interwebs says there's a few 8 lug 44s at the various junkyards around town so I'm going to get me some parts maybe next week.

Edit: I don't want to do new driveshafts until I get a transfer case with a flange on it, maybe a 1356-1356 doubler

[KrazyKarl02]

I have run the conversion joint for a long time, no real issues (my issues are with axle wrap). The only thing that sucks is the joint is expensive and most parts stores take a day to get it.

Also on your sterling, make sure it is actually a 1350, mine is a "1330F", a 1350 is wider from cap to cap. A 1330 has the large caps, but is the same width cap to cap as a 1330. Ford did this a lot.

Also, your 1356 to 1356 doubler, you got an extra 1356 for it?

[BroncoJo]

Did you check my pile of drive shafts? There should be a few from 1-ton fords

[Sparling]

I have run the conversion joint for a long time, no real issues (my issues are with axle wrap). The only thing that sucks is the joint is expensive and most parts stores take a day to get it.

Also on your sterling, make sure it is actually a 1350, mine is a "1330F", a 1350 is wider from cap to cap. A 1330 has the large caps, but is the same width cap to cap as a 1330. Ford did this a lot.

Also, your 1356 to 1356 doubler, you got an extra 1356 for it?

I read about the weird 1330F u joints that were used, I'm going to go measure the yoke before I order a conversion joint. I don't have another t-case for a doubler, I need to find me one with a yoke or a flange on the back.


Did you check my pile of drive shafts? There should be a few from 1-ton fords

Not yet, I'll look.

[mudtoy67]

I have run the conversion joint for a long time, no real issues (my issues are with axle wrap). The only thing that sucks is the joint is expensive and most parts stores take a day to get it.

Also on your sterling, make sure it is actually a 1350, mine is a "1330F", a 1350 is wider from cap to cap. A 1330 has the large caps, but is the same width cap to cap as a 1330. Ford did this a lot.

Also, your 1356 to 1356 doubler, you got an extra 1356 for it?

Do you happen to know the part number? Spicer doesn't list anything that crosses to 1330F (or 1330spec as they call it), just 1330.

[KrazyKarl02]

Stolen from the internet, so double check it, if I was at home I could look on the box I have:

To clarify:
joint width dia
1310 3.219 1.062
1330 3.625 1.062
1330f 3.625 1.125
1350 3.625 1.188

I have found
5-1204X = 1330/1330f
5-1203X = 1310/1330f

The F is sometimes replaced with sp.

[Sparling]

http://www.actionmachineinc.com/1330specialseriesnongreasableu-joint-2.aspx

16 bucks for a conversion u joint is way less than I thought

[mudtoy67]

Thanks.

I didn't see it before in the parts identification cause I didn't look hard enough.:D
http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?DSD~dedsec~3~

The 5-1204x (aka 5-792x; both cross to precision 434) is the 1310/1330F crossover. Is this what you're using?

According to the identification the 5-1203x is just a plain 1330 joint.:confused2

On a related note, I just realized I've been running the wrong ujoint on my ford 9".:laughing:



edit: got it wrong. 5-1204x is a standard 1330 (3.625 cross 1.062 cap) to 1330F (3.625 cross 1.125 cap) joint.

[mudtoy67]

http://www.actionmachineinc.com/1330specialseriesnongreasableu-joint-2.aspx

16 bucks for a conversion u joint is way less than I thought

16 bucks - no shipping;)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PRE0/434.oap?keyword=434

[mudtoy67]

BTW - if yall are looking to find the non-spicer part number for stuff you can do an interchange search on Federal Mogul's site:

http://www.fme-cat.com/

It will pull up the precision part number, which is the same basic number most parts stores will use.

[Sparling]

16 bucks - no shipping;)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PRE0/434.oap?keyword=434

The ones I found yesterday were around 50 bucks so either way that makes me happy

[TdmayfieldIV]

16 bucks - no shipping;)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PRE0/434.oap?keyword=434

That's precision though, they suck dick

[KrazyKarl02]

The 5-1204x (aka 5-792x; both cross to precision 434) is the 1310/1330F crossover. Is this what you're using?

I have run into this before and can not remember what I did. I have purchased the spicer u-joint with no issue. It seems to me that the precision joint I end up getting a cap from another joint, but I'm no u-joint-ologist. When I get home I can look at my boxes.

[mudtoy67]

That's precision though, they suck dick

Work fine for me. You suck dick.:flipoff2:

[Sparling]

That's precision though, they suck dick

You think that anything that isn't brand name sucks dick. I run cheap **** first and if it doesn't work then I'll get better stuff. Guess how many parts store brand u joints I've broken... I'll give you a hint, it's less than one.

[TdmayfieldIV]

I've actually run two of the top of the line precision joints and broken both of them.

[mudtoy67]

I've actually run two of the top of the line precision joints and broken both of them.

Your track record of breakage is less than a desirable measure of quality in parts.:laughing:

[TdmayfieldIV]

I'm good for product testing

[bcolman]

i have gone through many u-joints of varying quality, they key to making a joint last is greasing it if it is needed and not running it at super extreme angles, i was running a 1350 to 1350 shaft at over 30 degrees and couldnt even get a day of wheeling out of a joint

[eight]

The key is to have superior suspension.

[cj nut]

I run house brand u-joints, and I have twisted driveshafts before they failed. Maybe you just suck at putting them in. haha try drinking more next time.

[Sharpe]

I have never broken a Precision brand u-joint and have way more power and bigger tires than all you bitches. Tommy, your **** is ****ed, that's why you break them.

[robertf03]

I broke a precision 1300 u joint

[eight]

I have never actually broken a driveshaft u-joint. Usually when they pop out it's a result of axle wrap. I do/did wear out 1310 joints of all brands very quickly though.

[TdmayfieldIV]

I have never broken a Precision brand u-joint and have way more power and bigger tires than all you bitches. Tommy, your **** is ****ed, that's why you break them.



http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/2070/umad2.jpg

[Fredo]

I have never broken a Precision brand u-joint and have way more power and bigger tires than all you bitches. Tommy, your **** is ****ed, that's why you break them.

I choose not to discuss u-joints. They might hear me talking about them and decide to explode to prove a point.

[eight]

Even Neapcos?

[Sharpe]

Lucas HAS to make some kind of bandaid miracle cure for u-joints. They do for everything else!

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I have never broken a Precision brand u-joint and have way more power and bigger tires than all you bitches. Tommy, your **** is ****ed, that's why you break them.

Just like Mark McGuire's Homerun record, you need and asterisk in that post!

[colman]

ive broken a precision ujoint. do i get a cool kid sticker now?

[mudtoy67]

ive broken a precision ujoint. do i get a cool kid sticker now?

LIES!:flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

ive broken a precision ujoint. do i get a cool kid sticker now?

No you get lumped in with Tummy:flipoff2:

[Fredo]

I broke a precision ujoint in Reno, just to watch it die.

[sam_hodnett]

:laughing: :gigem:

[Hellbent]

I broke a precision joint in oklahoma...

[Sharpe]

I broke a precision joint in oklahoma...

Go sit in the corner with TumTum and Colman.

[Sparling]

I got the transmission most of the way back in. After it's in I just need to finish running cooler lines and I would be driveable but it's coming apart for the old klogger lift and the sterling rear end. Also found out that there's a coolant leak somewhere near the rear of the engine. I'm not going to trace it down; just hope it's not leaking into the cylinders and start building a replacement motor, maybe a 460, maybe a 351. Depends on what I can find.

[TdmayfieldIV]

http://i846.photobucket.com/albums/ab30/HerndonHoldings/62Ford5.jpg

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2011-Ford-F250-6-2-Liter-V-8-Gas-Engine-Transmission-/110652541744?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19c367cb30#ht_3410wt_1024

[colman]

well then i'm king of the corner because i broke two at the same time givine me two driveshafts flailing around

[BroncoJo]

Here is a simple and cheap way of extending the radius arms

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=940558

[Sparling]

Thinking of getting bilstein 5100 6" lift shocks when the lift goes in. Anybody have any opinions on them? They seem to be a pretty popular shock and I'm not ready to step up to reservoir shocks or anything super fancy.
Also need to figure out if there's a way to mount a BW 1356 to a crossmember. I'm not sure if you can due to the case being magnesium but I would think that the weight of a doubler hanging off the transmission mount would be a bad thing.

[Hot Pocket]

Thinking of getting bilstein 5100 6" lift shocks when the lift goes in. Anybody have any opinions on them? They seem to be a pretty popular shock and I'm not ready to step up to reservoir shocks or anything super fancy.
Also need to figure out if there's a way to mount a BW 1356 to a crossmember. I'm not sure if you can due to the case being magnesium but I would think that the weight of a doubler hanging off the transmission mount would be a bad thing.

I wanted to get bilisteins, but they're pretty pricey. A few people on here talked me into getting some ranchos. They are a really good shock, and the bronco drives like a cadillac on the street.

[Sparling]

Go ride in Travis's truck. You'll notice what a difference a good set of coils and shocks makes. I want to get something good the first time. I know what rancho shocks ride like and I know what 3 inch fox shocks ride like, and I want to get the best shocks I can with what I'll be able to spend.

I'm kind of tempted to get 2.5 FOA reservoir shocks on the front and bilsteins on the rear.

[KrazyKarl02]

Thinking of getting bilstein 5100 6" lift shocks when the lift goes in. Anybody have any opinions on them? They seem to be a pretty popular shock and I'm not ready to step up to reservoir shocks or anything super fancy.
Also need to figure out if there's a way to mount a BW 1356 to a crossmember. I'm not sure if you can due to the case being magnesium but I would think that the weight of a doubler hanging off the transmission mount would be a bad thing.

I have never seen it done with a 1356, but could you do something like this:

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt351/der anged57/Deranged%20V3/P5090148.jpg&imgrefurl

with the case bolts?

[mudtoy67]

Thinking of getting bilstein 5100 6" lift shocks when the lift goes in. Anybody have any opinions on them? They seem to be a pretty popular shock and I'm not ready to step up to reservoir shocks or anything super fancy.
Also need to figure out if there's a way to mount a BW 1356 to a crossmember. I'm not sure if you can due to the case being magnesium but I would think that the weight of a doubler hanging off the transmission mount would be a bad thing.

Build the mount attachment point into the doubler plate.

[bcolman]

i have bilsteins on my blazer and love them, it rides real smooth with them, i think they are the 5100 series ones

[Sharpe]

Yah Brian and I have more or less the same suspension and his rides way better. I have Rancho 5015s in the front but they're prety old and haggard. If I ever start working on Pigpen again, getting the Bilsteins I got from Scott rebuilt and installed is my first priority.

[BroncoJo]

Thinking of getting bilstein 5100 6" lift shocks when the lift goes in. Anybody have any opinions on them? They seem to be a pretty popular shock and I'm not ready to step up to reservoir shocks or anything super fancy.
Also need to figure out if there's a way to mount a BW 1356 to a crossmember. I'm not sure if you can due to the case being magnesium but I would think that the weight of a doubler hanging off the transmission mount would be a bad thing.


If you are not in a huge hurry used 2.0 resi's (fox or bilstein 7100) can normally be found for around 300-400. Then a complete rebuild and re valve (for a 2.0 fox) is less than $50 per shock.

[BroncoJo]

These might be sold but definitely worth looking into

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/07-5-current-3rd-gen-all-products/385058-bilstein-9100-shocks.html

edit- they are in canada...

[Sparling]

I started the truck up tonight and the output spins in neutral so I think it should be fine. Just gotta see if it slips and make sure it shifts alright. I'm feeling pretty good at this point. I'll Put driveshafts in and drive around travis's house on Friday.

[Sparling]

Does
http://www.summitmachine.com/store/index.php/suspension-components/heim-joints/heim-joint-1-x-1-rh.html
+
http://www.summitmachine.com/store/index.php/high-misalignment-spacer-1-3-4.html
= good or could be better for extended radius arms?
This will be about 12-14" extended radius arms with 2"x.25" DOM
and since the radius arms won't be spinning, I shouldn't need jam nuts right?

[BroncoJo]

Does
http://www.summitmachine.com/store/index.php/suspension-components/heim-joints/heim-joint-1-x-1-rh.html
+
http://www.summitmachine.com/store/index.php/high-misalignment-spacer-1-3-4.html
= good or could be better for extended radius arms?
This will be about 12-14" extended radius arms with 2"x.25" DOM
and since the radius arms won't be spinning, I shouldn't need jam nuts right?


Are hiem joints really needed? I think the $150 could be spent somewhere else (shocks or rear leafs) first.

just my two cents

[TdmayfieldIV]

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/2357005854.html

new motor

[Sparling]

It needs like 109 more cubes

[BroncoJo]

Are the 96's mass air? or are those just the 302's

[Sparling]

the 5.0/5.8 got mass air starting in 94, my brother has a mass air '94 and my '93 is speed density. The 7.5 didn't get it until a year or two later and not every truck was mass air from then on. I saw some '96 SD 7.5s and a few '95s that were mass air.

[KrazyKarl02]

I thought the 96 302's were the only ones to have mass air, but I could be wrong.

[Sparling]

I just googled it some said it was 97 only but I saw some earlier ones
And I know my brothers '94 is definitely a mass air

[BroncoJo]

I thought the 96 302's were the only ones to have mass air, but I could be wrong.

I was pretty sure this is how it was.

Also I have never seen a factory 460 with mass air

[mudtoy67]

My 95 F150 5.0 was not mass air. I always thought it was 96+ that got mass air...though fwiw wiki says 94+.

[stx4wheeler]

I also, have never seen a 460 with mass air. My 95 351 doesn't have mass air either.

[KrazyKarl02]

Is your brother's something goofy like a California Car, they sometimes put like an extra cat or some stupid crap on them.

Oh and my '96 Bronco had mass air.

[85cj7]

I'm not sure what we are comparing, but, '90 mustang with mass air.

[KrazyKarl02]

I'm not sure what we are comparing, but, '90 mustang with mass air.

Truck engines is the subject. The mustangs had it way before trucks.

[Sparling]

http://s736.photobucket.com/albums/x...rent=002-3.mp4

this is what my transmission does when it tries to shift from 1-2. It doesn't slip when in reverse or first so I'm thinking it's got something to do with the solenoid pack or valve body. Shouldn't be too hard to fix. I saw someone else with this problem but I can't find it again. Anybody have any ideas?

[Sparling]

Got frame flex?

[85cj7]

http://s736.photobucket.com/albums/x...rent=002-3.mp4

this is what my transmission does when it tries to shift from 1-2. It doesn't slip when in reverse or first so I'm thinking it's got something to do with the solenoid pack or valve body. Shouldn't be too hard to fix. I saw someone else with this problem but I can't find it again. Anybody have any ideas?

dead link

[Sparling]

Not sure why the link is dead, but when the transmission tries to shift from 1-2, it locks up. I'm still trying to find where I found someone who had the same issue. If I can't get it fixed cheap then I'll be looking at putting a C6 in there.

This truck is headed in a different direction. New plan:

Keeping TTB with lift brackets for now but cut and turned beams sometime in the future as soon as I can find some beams for cheap. Looking at a whole bunch of calipers with the 5x5.5 bolt pattern so I can figure out bigger brakes. Might just use a dual piston caliper because from what I've found so far, no other rotor will fit over the hub without machining. I've looked at 1/2 ton dodge stuff, jeep stuff, '04 e-150 stuff, and everything has a hub hole that is too small. Also going to build some strait radius arms out of DOM for it.

The rear will get a spool or get welded, and trussed. Not sure about keeping my 8.8 since it has c clips and you can't use a spool or anything without a c clip eliminator kit and from what I've read, the c clips hold up fine as long as you don't go huge on the tires. So if I kept the 8.8 it would get welded, if I went with a 9 inch it'd get a spool and eventually a detroit. Keeping drum brakes with the one ton wheel cylinders from the sterling.

A cage out of 2" .120 wall DOM. It'll go in slow because it's expensive. It needs to have a front and rear vertical hoop, two top connecting bars, two rear down bars, one diagonal down bar, and two horizontal door bars. I also want to tie this into an engine cage with big hoops for shocks and a crossmember over the engine.

New front and rear bumpers, and some other stuff like a new fuel cell will make it on there too.

[Sharpe]

Why the **** do you think you need 2" 1/4 wall for a cage? It will be almost impossible to bend, weigh 2-3 times more tha 1.75 .120 and cost an assload. Did Tummy come up with that idea?

[mudtoy67]

Not sure why the link is dead, but when the transmission tries to shift from 1-2, it locks up. I'm still trying to find where I found someone who had the same issue. If I can't get it fixed cheap then I'll be looking at putting a C6 in there.

Your link is not working because you didn't copy/paste correctly. (It has the '...')

I'd definitely give a few transmission shops a call for some help. You've already got a bunch of time and money tied up in it.

[Sparling]

Why the **** do you think you need 2" 1/4 wall for a cage? It will be almost impossible to bend, weigh 2-3 times more tha 1.75 .120 and cost an assload. Did Tummy come up with that idea?

I meant 2" .120 wall. I can't skimp on that on size. My truck is heavy enough to need it per rules I'm following.


Your link is not working because you didn't copy/paste correctly. (It has the '...')

I'd definitely give a few transmission shops a call for some help. You've already got a bunch of time and money tied up in it.

I'll fix it. I need to see if oliver brothers will help me figure out what's wrong with it.

[Sharpe]

2" .120 is still going to cost about twice as much as 1.75 .120 because no one uses it. The smart way to buy tube is through group buys so you get a price break

[Sparling]

MATERIAL
Rollcage construction material may be crew, Dom, whr, wcr mild carbon steel or 4130 chromoly.

This is what I can use, and anything over 4k pounds has to use 2" .120 wall tubing

[bcolman]

where did you find that anything over 4k lbs needs 2" .120 wall, i have seen, pictures, videos and in person, many rigs that weigh over that with 1.75 cages take hard hits and everyone was fine

[Sparling]

Well, there's a reason sam, Travis, and I are going to the EDR 200 later this year and also a reason why I'm keeping ttb and half ton rear axle.

[JB]

Mine is 1.75x.120

[Sparling]

I emailed Baja Racing of Texas about using 1.75" .120 wall but Extreme Desert Racing just says you need a 6 point cage with no requirements on what tube size or type you use. I'm looking at class 8 right now and in several years when I get a real job I'll move into the door slammer class. Right now the priorities are getting a working transmission and working on a roll cage and figuring out what shocks I'm going to use. Does anybody have any experience with FOA coilovers? I've read some good and some bad stuff but for what I'm doing I think they'll be okay. Thinking of 2.5 coilovers with reservoir in probably 14 inch travel. I need to figure out what spring rates and valving to use. I guess I'll finish my cage and weigh it together a better idea of what i need. Thoughts about spring rate or FOA shocks?

[BroncoJo]

First I suggest saving money and going to races

http://www.f-o-a.com/calculator.html

If you're really wanting to run FOA talk to them and see what they recommend

[Sparling]

I found a '96 5.8/e4od/bw1356 for my truck that'll be going in very soon. Easy fix to a sluggish motor and a transmission that doesn't shift. Everything works well and is out of a wrecked truck.

[KrazyKarl02]

Out of a Bronco? There was one like you are describing on the list.

[Sparling]

That's the one.

[RCcola55]

What about the frame and body?

[Sparling]

The guy wants too much for everything else, didn't seem worth it for a wrecked carcass

[Sparling]

I've been looking into converting to mass air on my 5.8 when I swap it in. My main hang up is the E4OD. Conversion kits are $$$, so I wanted to use stock parts from a bronco with a 5.0 and E4OD. Does anybody know if the E4OD was ever used in a mass air application behind a small block, or if the 5.0 computer will run a 5.8 alright? I think all you have to do is change the firing order for the spark plug wires?

[BroncoJo]

I've been looking into converting to mass air on my 5.8 when I swap it in. My main hang up is the E4OD. Conversion kits are $$$, so I wanted to use stock parts from a bronco with a 5.0 and E4OD. Does anybody know if the E4OD was ever used in a mass air application behind a small block, or if the 5.0 computer will run a 5.8 alright? I think all you have to do is change the firing order for the spark plug wires?

yes, and I believe so.

[RCcola55]

Thats a question for Flem or St. John. I believe you have to have the 5.8/ E4OD computer, which like you said is the most $$$ one, thus the reason I never did mass air on the bronco. I also cant remember if the mass air motors were still batch-fire or if mass air made them sequential-fire, if so then it defently would not interchange, unless it came off of a 5.0HO, but i also dont believe any of those had an E4OD behind them. All in all I would say you have to get the $900 computer.

[Sparling]

The mass air went to sequential from what I could tell from reading about it

[mudtoy67]

What benefit does swapping to mass air give you?

[Sparling]

The speed density only works well if you stay below a certain volumetric efficiency. If I want a better cam or maybe some heads, the SD computer won't work right, where as a mass air will adapt to the better flow, because it calculates the volume of air, not the density of the air at a certain programed VE.

[robertf03]

If you have a ****ty idle vacuum the mass air is better.

Sparling wtf does this mean?
mass air will adapt to the better flow, because it calculates the volume of air, not the mass of the air

[Fredo]

Flem, I read that line three times in a row, then scrolled and saw your response and started laughing. I'm glad I'm not the only one who thought, WTF?

[BroncoJo]

Find a 1995 5.8/e4od computer out of a f-250 and the swap gets easy, all you have to do is swap in the injector wiring, re-pin and maf sensor.

If you want to complicate things use something out of 96 and go to OBD-II

If you want to use a 5.0/e4od computer you will need/want to step up the injectors which will require (IIRC) a maf calibrated to the injectors. Mustang guys always step up injectors so this should be no problem.

Or you can easily tune speed density with something like this (~$350) http://www.tweecer.com/products.htm


edit- actually I think most 5.0 and 5.8s will use 19 lb injectors

[RCcola55]

Im out.

[BroncoJo]

Borrowed from FSB http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=193842

And the not so dumbed down version: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=164963



How about this:

You can go to www.car-part.com (http://www.car-part.com/) and find a 1995 F150 Federal E4OD WAY1 (F5TF-12A650-JB) or VEX1 (F5TF-12A650-HB) EEC with J3 Port for $50.00.

Next, you can go to RJM Injection Tech (http://rjminjectiontech.com/collections/efi-harness/products/truck-sd-to-maf-harness) and buy probably the same MAF Upgrade Harness for $150.00. I believe they manufacture them for other companies that sell kits, such as fiveologyracing.

Then you can go to Pro-M Racing (http://www.promracing.com/mass-air-meters-c-2) and buy a 19 lb/hr calibrated 75mm Mass Air Sensor for $200-$300, depending if you want chrome or not.

Finally, you can go to www.siliconeintakes.com (http://www.siliconeintakes.com/) and modify your Air Tube for MAF for $25-$50, or find a complete MAF Intake at the Junk Yard for even less.




Yes, you will have to re-pin the harness connector (http://fordfuelinjection.com/truckpinouts.html) at the firewall.





Several specific EEC's are programmed to control an electronic E4OD transmission. You will require a 60-pin EEC-IV/MAF/E4OD/OBD-I computer.

Your choices are as follows: (http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=17)

HOG0 (F4TF-12A650-AAA)
U4X0 (F4PF-12A650-AA)
VEX1 (F5TF-12A650-HB)
WAY1 (F5TF-12A650-JB)
BIO0 (F5TF-12A650-BYA)
AKC0 (F8TF-12A650-NA)


If you use a non-E4OD EEC, you will then need a separate Transmission Controller.




To use a 104-pin EEC-V/MAF/E4OD/OBD-II computer, you will require the correct EEC, a completely new engine harness, additional sensors and correct connectors. Again, EEC-V uses a 104-pin connector to accommodate more sensors and actuators which your existing 60-pin EEC-IV does not have. Doable, but a challenging and expensive undertaking at best...






So I looked and it seems that the BIO0 and AKC0 EEC's are the only ones made for the 5.8L engine. Would the others made for the 5.0L not work appropriately? or would there be any issues?


Yes, they would work appropriately for your relatively stock 5.8L.

A common MAF Upgrade consists of the use of the readily available 1989-1993 Mustang A9L (Manual Transmission) or A9P (Auto Transmission) EEC, which would require a separate Transmission Controller for the E4OD. This is popular for a non-electronic E4OD Bronco application as they are readily available and the separate Transmission Controller is not an issue.

The WAY1 and VEX1 EEC's are from a 1995 F150 5.0L EEC-IV/MAF/E4OD/OBD-I and support the electronic E4OD. They should work fine in a a relatively stock 5.8L, but if you begin to significantly modify your engine then custom tuning through the J3 Port (by way of a custom chip or on-board tuner) may then be required.

Issues in a MAF Upgrade consist of relocating the ACT Sensor from the existing Speed Density Intake Manifold location to the MAF Air Filter Box location due to the existing MAF EEC programming. I personally had the Bin File changed in my custom tune to address the different temperature values and kept the ACT Sensor in the existing Intake Manifold location.

Another issue would be the addition of an additional HEGO Sensor. The WAY1/VEX1/AKCO only require the single O2 Sensor already located in your stock location. The BIO0 and A9L/A9P will require welding in two sensor bungs to provide for the addition of specifically located stereo O2 Sensors.

VSS should not be an issue for your 1995 Rear Differential located VSS. It was for my (pre-1992) 1990 Transfer Case Tailhousing located VSS.




So far I found two BIO0 EEC's and looks like they would be chip programmable. Would that be the best option because it is specifically from a 5.8L engine?



The BIO0 would be a great EEC for a relatively stock 5.8L as it is from a 1995 California 5.8L EEC-IV/MAF/E4OD/OBD-I Bronco. Addressing the ACT location would be required as well as the addition of stereo O2 Sensors. Problem is the BIO0 is rare and expensive as it was only in the 1995 California 5.8L Bronco.

On the other hand, the AKC0 may not be a good choice without tuning as it is from a performance modified 1993-1995 Lightning with 24 lb/hr fuel injectors.



In summary, the WAY1/VEX1 are the easiest to use for a MAF Upgrade on your 1995 Bronco. They not only have very similar Bin programming files, but there is a lot of support for tuning. Additionally, they are EEC-IV/MAF/E4OD/OBD-I, which only require your existing single Oxygen Sensor and they have a J3 Port for future custom tuning. Without a custom tune, you will still have to install a MAF Air Box to accomodate the relocated ACT Sensor.

If you can find a good BIO0 and are willing to spend the money, it should also work wery well for your 5.8L/E4OD, provided that you address the ACT and stereo HEGO Sensor issues. The advantage of the BIO0 is that it was programmed specifically for the stock 5.8L Bronco.

IMHO, no matter which computer you use, a proper "tune", or reprogramming of the PCM, may be in order for your specific build. Many will attempt to do a MAF Upgrade on the cheap with a closely matched PCM, such as the 5.8L BIO0, attempting to end up efficient. It may run good but unless you provide a custom tune, or install a on-board tuner, you will be settling for "good enough". You may never achieve the most optimum air/fuel ratio over your performance curve. Upgrading to an MAF EEC having a J3 Port will allow you the flexibility to address tunig at a future time, if desired.

See the MAF Link in my signature.



If you're wanting to do this cheaply (not recommended) I say get a lighting computer, 24lb injectors and maybe it'll run right but more than likely you will still have to tune the computer.

[Sparling]

For reference:

http://www.snoreracing.net/post/05rulechange.htm

[Sparling]

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h77/mustube/6faaad21.jpg

Haven't decided if I want to plate the sides or run a few vertical tubes between them.

[sam_hodnett]

i would plate it

[stx4wheeler]

1 vertical tube and the plate them.

[AggieTJ2007]

1 vertical tube and the plate them.

I agree and you shouldn't need very thick plate either i would go with solid 1/8 or maybe 3/16

[Sparling]

The plan is for 2" .25 wall dom, but would 1.75" .25 wall be good enough? It would be about 11 pounds lighter, cost less and dowling already has a 1.75" die for the bender.

[KrazyKarl02]

I think 1.75" .250 wall would be fine, as long as you plated or added tubes between the arms. Go look at what Tum Tum's stock F250 radius arms are made of, I doubt it is 0.250" thick.

[BroncoJo]

The max wall thickness that the bender calls for is ~.13, not sure if it is up for the .25 wall.

[Sparling]

Or the person bending it for that matter.

[BroncoJo]

Weren't you having trouble bending the .120 HREW last night???

[Sparling]

No, your shop floor was dirty, after I swept I had no problem

[Sparling]

The ttb arm changes 21 degrees at 16" of wheel travel so the ballistic joint with 34 degrees of movement will work fine. Question is, if I go with 1.75" .25 wall tube that limits me to 1" threaded shank on the joint. Is this enough strength? I guess another option is to get the tube threaded to run a larger thread size if need be. Also getting some materials to start working on some sort of swingset steering. Might post up some drawings when I finish them.

[BroncoJo]

Or a heim will work and a 1 inch shank is more than enough.

[RCcola55]

what about welding the joint housing to the tube?

[AggieTJ2007]

I would weld the joint housing to the tube, you don't need the adjustability unless you don't build the arms the same or weld the mounts on square. Much stronger as well

[Sparling]

Back to steering, Travis got me some 1.5" .25 wall DOM for steering. I want to do something real similar to the YJ and Corey 2011 KOH buggy steering setup. It uses 2 idler arms with a relay rod between them and the tie rods mount the same place as the beam does so toe in and bump steer are pretty much gone. Here's some pictures of what he did, but I want to do a single shear setup, no hydro, and strait tie rods.

Also might be ordering cut and turned beams from threat motorsports next week if I can gather some cash. I emailed solo motorsports about their price, but I'm really liking how threat motorsports welds in a new billet piece for the lower balljoint instead of moving the stock one and plating it in.

[Sharpe]

That steering looks unnecesarilly complicated and extremely vulnerable to damage.

[KrazyKarl02]

That steering looks unnecesarilly complicated and extremely vulnerable to damage.

And expensive....

[Sparling]

That steering looks unnecesarilly complicated and extremely vulnerable to damage.

All will be covered by the skid plate in the front bumper. It has to be complicated to get rid of bumpsteer and toe in. Shouldn't cost too much on top of the tube I bought, just another stock pitman arm, a couple of heims and some plate

Does anybody use heims on their steering? I need something with more articulation than the 16 degrees from a regular TRE.

[RCcola55]

I have never heard of anyone using hiems for steering. You will be an innovator in the world of motorsports!

[Sparling]

I don't really want to use heims. I'd rather not innovate tie rod ends, I'm looking at the evo tre's. They look pretty beef at have plenty of movement. Only thing is $$$ for a reamer.


http://www.evojoints.com/Heims_TRE.html

[BroncoJo]

$50-60 for a reamer is your worries? I say go for it, doesn't look to complicated

[StevenAg03]

Back to steering, Travis got me some 1.5" .25 wall DOM for steering. I want to do something real similar to the YJ and Corey 2011 KOH buggy steering setup. It uses 2 idler arms with a relay rod between them and the tie rods mount the same place as the beam does so toe in and bump steer are pretty much gone. Here's some pictures of what he did, but I want to do a single shear setup, no hydro, and strait tie rods.

Also might be ordering cut and turned beams from threat motorsports next week if I can gather some cash. I emailed solo motorsports about their price, but I'm really liking how threat motorsports welds in a new billet piece for the lower balljoint instead of moving the stock one and plating it in.

didnt he start a thread after KOH saying that the steering didnt work like he wanted and he was having a "design contest" to get it figured out?

[Sparling]

The steering worked great, only problem was his full hydro setup was too slow. What happened was he pulled off the road to let somebody pass him, and he hit a stationary boulder that took out one entire side of his steering and eventually ended his race by bending and breaking a hydraulic fitting and PSC was closed so he couldn't get a replacement for it.