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Sparling
02-05-2010, 10:12 PM
I have a '93 F-150 4x4 that i want to build up. Right now, my truck is stock height with 33" BFG all terrains. My end goal is about 6 inches of lift with lots of suspension travel. I'm going to try to do a SAS this summer with a D44 from a 70's f-series and keep it coil springs up front. For the rear I've heard of flipping the rear shackle or replacing the rear shackle with another front shackle. I'm pretty new to the whole offroad community so i need help deciding what the best route would be to get lots of travel from the set up.

BroncoJo
02-05-2010, 10:23 PM
probably something like this but not so tall: http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9676

Ideally something like this: http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=1890&highlight=swamp

These would be ideal axle's for a budget, but this is a "how not to build something" Thread : http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=9672


Basically the best advice is to read through many different build threads and then decide how you want to start your build.

Oh and search noob :flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
02-05-2010, 10:56 PM
Questions to ask yourself before this build starts

1. Is it a daily driver

2. What kind of terrain are you planning on doing

3. What size tire do you wanna run.

4. Do you really need an sas. I think way to many people jump on the sas bandwagon just because they read something on fullsize bronco, when they probably have been better off staying with ttb. Krazykarl on here has done stuff to ttb that would make Tommy the intern engineer at ford gawk at the awesomeness of his lunch time creation. Also you can drop a lot of money into a Dana 44 sas and at the end of a day it is still a Dana 44.

5. The rear shackle hanger swap is a good swap but after driving both trucks with a shackle flip vs a rear lift spring pack. The lift pack is much better as far as driveablity(sp). I personally think that a 4 inch suspension on some 35's would work really well. Good luck with your build and welcome to the club.

BroncoJo
02-05-2010, 11:38 PM
FSB does have some good information, if you can weed out the bull****. For the TTB lifts checkout their broncospeed sub-forum, most of that may be overkill but still good to know.

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=96138&page=5

KrazyKarl02
02-06-2010, 12:23 AM
I had a '96 Bronco with a Rough Country 3" front suspension, rear block lift. You can look at the Krew Kab Klogger build thread. The Klogger started as a 6" front superlift coils and 6" blocks in the back. I have switched to a shackle flip.

Your '93 F-150 is a great truck. Ford really had the fuel injection thing down with that truck. They are simple, you can work on them, it is not uncommon to get 300k out of that truck. Other than the wind noise in the cab and lack of an air bag, it is a truck that can compete with the new ones.

I daily drove the Bronco, I went all over with a 3" lift. If this is to be a dailt driver I would stop around 3 or 4 inches of lift. If you leave the front open (unlocked) the TTB will hold up to 35's easily. BDR had a '95 F-150 that spent it's entire life on 36's or 35's with little issue.

The blocks in the rear are cheap, I think I still have mine if you want them, but I would say the shackle flip is much better than the blocks. For a truck that will see some towing, the lifted leaf springs are probably the way to go.

One more note on TTB, you can get spare parts for almost free. Talk to Mayfield about the cost of straight axle parts.

AggieTJ2007
02-06-2010, 12:23 AM
I agree i wouldn't waste the money on a Dana 44 swap I would keep the TTB until you are ready to swap a Dana 60. The 60 is going to cost a little more money but if you really get into wheeling it you will find out that you want/ need a 60. Until that point I think that that TTB will hold up just fine

if it is your DD and you really want to wheel it on moderate to hard trails be prepared to trash the bed/ build some sort of flat bed like cooks and a nice front bumper that has some good protection for the lights and fenders. Other than that go for it

KrazyKarl02
02-06-2010, 12:27 AM
I agree i wouldn't waste the money on a Dana 44 swap I would keep the TTB until you are ready to swap a Dana 60. The 60 is going to cost a little more money but if you really get into wheeling it you will find out that you want/ need a 60. Until that point I think that that TTB will hold up just fine

Honestly, here comes the pot calling the kettle black. If you have a nice truck, I would not put a 60 in it. The trails you need for a 60 will destroy a full size. Check out the younger Colman's rig. Other than WilliamACE, everyone in this club who swaps a 60 into their full size truck ends up killing body panels.

DRAGOONRANCH
02-06-2010, 12:33 AM
Hey, my front fenders only have MINOR dings in them...

colman
02-06-2010, 12:45 AM
will has a 44

AggieTJ2007
02-06-2010, 02:33 AM
Honestly, here comes the pot calling the kettle black. If you have a nice truck, I would not put a 60 in it. The trails you need for a 60 will destroy a full size. Check out the younger Colman's rig. Other than WilliamACE, everyone in this club who swaps a 60 into their full size truck ends up killing body panels.

That is what I was trying to get at. From watching you and your TTB I would assume that everything else that you wouldn't need a 60 for the TTB should work fine

Sparling
02-06-2010, 03:23 AM
So from what i am hearing, it would be better for a person like me (who uses the truck as a daily driver, for now at least) to keep the ttb and do a few mods to reinforce it and increase travel. Sound right? What can i do to the rear to increase travel? I don't want to tear up my truck as it's still in pretty good condition, even if I only paid 1k for it. I was looking at running 36 or 38 inch tires when all said and done. I don't really care about gas mileage because it already sucks at around 12 mpg overall with a 5.0. Somebody offered a dick cepek 4 inch lift kit for 300 for the front components, is this a worthwhile investment or should i look at getting a different set up?

AggieTJ2007
02-06-2010, 03:41 AM
in the rear your leaf springs should be good, you could probably just benefit from some longer shocks and an antiwrap bar.

with the anti wrap bar you could probably take a leaf out of your rear spring back to make it ride a litle softer and get some better flex as well

KrazyKarl02
02-06-2010, 10:42 AM
Here is a 4" Rough Country Lift (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/80-96-Ford-F150-Bronco-4-Suspension-Lift-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5885ec8e08QQitemZ38 0203994632QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcce ssories) for $470 for reference, Rough country is not a "premium" company, but the kit does have all the stuff (shocks, drop down pitman arm, drop down radius arms, etc...)

Is the dick cepek kit used? If so you would need to get shocks, not a huge investment, but an added cost.

stx4wheeler
02-06-2010, 11:26 AM
The cepek kit is prolly clarke's. In the rear to much a 4in. Kit an add a leaf and a shackle hanger flip will make it set level in the rear. I wouldn't worry about crazy flex it is really not needed in a truck like you are building. The add a leaf and hanger flip will work fine and will help with spring wrap. The rear ford springs flex pretty good in stock form.

I would also re think tire size. Your current axles will hold up nicely to 35's and you could still get away with stock gears. If going larger you are really taking chances and asking for breakage, and will require a gear change so that. Your truck won't be a dog around town and on the highway. Once again this is just my opinion that I have formed from my projects and experinces.

Eckert
02-06-2010, 07:46 PM
ill start with this:


I am guessing you broke the inner, inner shaft. You can replace the outer and middle shaft without removing the center section. But I am guessing you figured this out, If I were you, I would just do a straight axle swap, it is about the same amount of work... :flipoff2:

I think it has to do alot with your intentions on what you want to do. tire size is a big determining factor. 36-38 is a threshold.

My vote is a low lift SAS on 35's.

Sparling
02-06-2010, 08:38 PM
Radius arm drop brackets or extended length radius arms?

stx4wheeler
02-06-2010, 08:47 PM
Extended all the way for a wheeler/ driver. It will give better flex and drive good.

Sparling
02-06-2010, 11:11 PM
Anybody know where to get some for a lot cheaper than all of the ones i can find?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SJA-RA150/

About the cheapest i found.

BroncoJo
02-07-2010, 01:03 AM
Look for a used set, there are 5 stages of Fords and you want to find someone between stage 2 and 3.

Stages of fords:

1. Perfectly fine and capable daily driver
2. Light mod/ lift kit, still drivable
3. SAS pretty capable, mostly driveable
4. Extreme mod'ed and cut, sometimes trail-able
5. scrap yard

RCcola55
02-07-2010, 01:47 AM
i have the dick cepek kit

DRAGOONRANCH
02-07-2010, 02:55 AM
i have the dick cepek kit

That's what she said!

AggieTJ2007
02-07-2010, 08:53 AM
yeah and frick can show you how to build some extended radious arms

stx4wheeler
02-07-2010, 04:40 PM
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=166683

ttb lift with extended arms.

JB
02-07-2010, 05:12 PM
My advice since it is a DD is to do a 3-4" good quality TTB kit, 35s, a rear locker, a front bumper, rear hitch for a recovery point, and have fun with. Going with the TTB kit will mean less down time than doing a SAS. Most all of that could be done in a weekend, and you will get out cheaper for now.

From what I remember from my TTB days, Dick Cepek made a pretty good kit. I am not sure if Clarke's had the extended arms or not. I had a Rancho 4" and was pleased with it. You could do drop brackets for now and get the extended arms when you get some more cash.

SAS'ing with a 44 seems like a waste of time and resources to me. If you are going to do it, do it right with a 60. If you can not afford a 60 right now, then wait until you can.

Sparling
02-09-2010, 10:23 AM
i have the dick cepek kit

Does the Cepek kit have extended radius arms or drop down brackets?

RCcola55
02-09-2010, 01:18 PM
drop brackets. although for wheeling the extended arms are far superior, when it comes to driving a vehicle on the road everyday, ide try and keep as many stock parts on it as possible. plus the kits with extended arms are $$$

BroncoJo
02-09-2010, 01:54 PM
drop brackets. although for wheeling the extended arms are far superior, when it comes to driving a vehicle on the road everyday, ide try and keep as many stock parts on it as possible. plus the kits with extended arms are $$$

I disagree with this point when it comes to drop brackets. drop brackets have an advantage in keeping some geometry the same but increase lever-arms thereby multiplying the force. I have broke radius arm drop brackets before.

StevenAg03
02-09-2010, 02:27 PM
I disagree with this point when it comes to drop brackets. drop brackets have an advantage in keeping some geometry the same but increase lever-arms thereby multiplying the force. I have broke radius arm drop brackets before.

what kit did you have? maybe you had a ****ty kit...

BroncoJo
02-09-2010, 02:56 PM
what kit did you have? maybe you had a ****ty kit...

Skyjacker, it wasn't a ****ty part I just part that part under a lot of stress.

RCcola55
02-09-2010, 04:14 PM
you gotta think though, this kid is going to be driving everyday in this thing and i doubt he will be doint any serious wheeling until he goes with a sas. For the time being, to save money on a lift and tire wear(we r talking about ttb i know) and do make me some green, drop brackets are the way to go

85cj7
02-09-2010, 05:20 PM
with clarkes kit you would still need all shocks, brake lines, blocks, and u-bolts. Probably another $300 depending on shock quality/brand.

RCcola55
02-09-2010, 06:08 PM
im pretty sure i have most of that

Eckert
02-09-2010, 06:39 PM
who said anything about blocks?

Seth
02-09-2010, 06:57 PM
I would go extended arms, sorry clarke. See my BWT thread for why. Basically, my frame cracked, while the drop brackets were way beefy and had no problem holding up. I agree that an SAS is not the only option though. Especially after seeing some of the longtravel type stuff made for TTB. Hell, wanna trade trucks? :)

Sparling
02-11-2010, 03:42 AM
Today i bought a class 3 receiver on craigslist for my truck so i can use that as a recovery point in the rear. I have 2 10k tow hooks i'm going to mount to the frame with some grade 8 bolts and nuts in the front. Is there anything else i should be looking for to get my truck ready for gilmer? I have a 15' tow strap and a hi lift in the truck. Should I carry some extra u-joints with me? I'm not sure if I'm doing stressful enough wheeling to break any or not.

Front tow hook mount:
http://www.froggmann.com/Bronco/Tech/Tow.htm

DRAGOONRANCH
02-11-2010, 04:50 AM
Front Axle u-joints along with driveshaft u-joints. A handfull of wrenches, a mini-sledge (2lb), a few fuses and relays. That's a good start.

Oh, and lots and lots of colorado kool-aid to keep Karl well lubricated. ;)

KrazyKarl02
02-11-2010, 11:00 AM
Today i bought a class 3 receiver on craigslist for my truck so i can use that as a recovery point in the rear. I have 2 10k tow hooks i'm going to mount to the frame with some grade 8 bolts and nuts in the front. Is there anything else i should be looking for to get my truck ready for gilmer? I have a 15' tow strap and a hi lift in the truck. Should I carry some extra u-joints with me? I'm not sure if I'm doing stressful enough wheeling to break any or not.

Front tow hook mount:
http://www.froggmann.com/Bronco/Tech/Tow.htm

Eventually you will need to consider spare front axle shafts. However for Gilmer, I will have a complete set of TTB shafts, so if either of us breaks, we can figure something out.

Some spare u-joints might not be a bad idea, or just change the joints in your truck and keep the old ones for "trail spares".

Oh and post up in the Newbie thread (http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2598&page=7)some pictures. I want to see what this '66 mustang looks like.

<insert John Cox gay rant below here>

Seth
02-11-2010, 10:15 PM
30' 3" strap with loops not hooks.
Shackle and mount to go in the reciever mount like this (http://www.tractorsupply.com/winches-power-pulls-accessories/winch-straps-accessories/champion-winch-receiver-bracket-and-shackle-1834119)
good pair of leather gloves, esp in winter (tsc has good ones (http://www.tractorsupply.com/mens-work-gloves/west-chester-men-s-leather-driver-palm-patch-gloves-634999999) for 13 bucks)
full size spare tire and 4way or lugwrench
trail tools never hurt. (6 in 1 screwdriver, crescent wrench, pliers, duct tape, zip ties, fluids, brake clean, wd40, prybar, then sockets and wrenches)
ratchet straps to hold your crap down (cooler and tub for tools and straps)
CB radio
Jumper cables
mudboots/extra socks/rain gear/warm clothes

Labeling crap or marking it might help your chances of it getting back to you

I always had problems with my hubs, yours seemed to work fine but you might pull the covers to make sure they are still clean and lubed after soggy bottom.

Eckert
02-11-2010, 10:48 PM
Shackle and mount to go in the reciever mount like this (http://www.tractorsupply.com/winches-power-pulls-accessories/winch-straps-accessories/champion-winch-receiver-bracket-and-shackle-1834119)

if you dont want to drop the coin. a simple hitch pin would work just fine.

DRAGOONRANCH
02-12-2010, 12:05 AM
will a 3" strap loop still fit inside the reciever? I guess it should if it's folded over in the loop.

TdmayfieldIV
02-12-2010, 12:07 AM
or you can buy a drop ball hitch for a trailer and put a shackle in the hole instead of a ball. Thats what i'm doing because i already have one:gigem:

DRAGOONRANCH
02-12-2010, 12:51 AM
That would have to be one of the most redneck things I would ever see if I ever saw it.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/DRAGOONRANCH/Stupid/6dd2d381.jpg

Sparling
02-12-2010, 12:59 AM
what about making one of those receiver shackle mounts with some 2" box tube and some bar stock inside with holes for some grade 8 bolts and the shackle?

KrazyKarl02
02-12-2010, 01:02 AM
what about making one of those receiver shackle mounts with some 2" box tube and some bar stock inside with holes for some grade 8 bolts and the shackle?

Are you talking about for the front?

Sparling
02-12-2010, 01:28 AM
Are you talking about for the front?

No for the rear to fit into my receiver and hold a shackle, something like this.

1: 2" box tube
2: 1/2" grade 8 bolts
3: Bar stock
4: Hole for shackle
5: Hole for hitch pin

The whole thing would slide into the receiver just like a ball hitch or the one in the TSC link above.
I think we could buy some box tube and bar stock and make a bunch of these for people in the club at cost. I know there were several people talking about getting these.

Sharpe
02-12-2010, 01:35 AM
Too much work, just buy one.

Sparling
02-12-2010, 01:41 AM
I'm not scared of some work, especially if somebody has some box tube and bar stock just lying around that I can get for cheap. I thoroughly enjoy making stuff even if I am a noob at some of it.

DRAGOONRANCH
02-12-2010, 07:07 AM
By the time you buy a $30 shackle and $3-5 on consumables, you could spend a few more dollars and get a complete set (which should have a spare hitch pin, and someone is always needing one of those). Recovery gear is one of the few things most will tell you to not skimp on as it will get somebody hurt.

Seth
02-12-2010, 09:02 AM
Thought of something else. I like to bring a short (4-6 foot) piece of chain if you bring a nice strap. That way you can use it to attach your strap to someone who doesnt have tow points and it wont tear up your expensive strap.

Also, there very well may be cheaper shackle mounts out there (30?) that was just for illustration. Didn't burris say he had some?

TdmayfieldIV
02-12-2010, 02:48 PM
That would have to be one of the most redneck things I would ever see if I ever saw it.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/DRAGOONRANCH/Stupid/6dd2d381.jpg

and i found a shackle at tc for $6

bburris
02-12-2010, 02:57 PM
We have d-rings with 3/4" bolts listed at $24.95/pair and a 2" receiver hitch with d-ring for $19.95

TdmayfieldIV
02-12-2010, 03:52 PM
We have d-rings with 3/4" bolts listed at $24.95/pair and a 2" receiver hitch with d-ring for $19.95

where is this?

85cj7
02-12-2010, 03:56 PM
collins brothers in wylie
collinsbrosjeep.com

bburris
02-12-2010, 04:17 PM
The smart thing to do is call me (Brett) at 972-575-8762 and tell me who you are if you need a Jeep-related part.

Eckert
02-12-2010, 04:36 PM
will a 3" strap loop still fit inside the reciever? I guess it should if it's folded over in the loop.

yes, 4" trap also works too. does it all the time.:gigem:

TdmayfieldIV
02-12-2010, 11:24 PM
The smart thing to do is call me (Brett) at 972-575-8762 and tell me who you are if you need a Jeep-related part.

i don't drive a heep but my dad does, he needs his rear axle fixed cause he spun out in a snowstorm and bent his axle:flipoff2:

anyway, if its just a reciever shackle then i can use it

I got your jeep thing now it hurts when i pee:haha:

DRAGOONRANCH
02-13-2010, 06:08 AM
yes, 4" trap also works too. does it all the time.:gigem:

I know what they call a trap on 4chan, I sure hope you are talking about something else!!! :eek:

eight
02-13-2010, 08:39 AM
I use the receiver hitch as the tow point by inserting a strap as discussed above. I don't roll high enough to have a hitch pin though, but a 1/2" bolt works.

DRAGOONRANCH
02-13-2010, 09:00 AM
I use the receiver hitch as the tow point by inserting a strapon as discussed above. I don't roll high enough to have a hitch pin though, but a 1/2" bolt works.


Wrong Thread Kopeki, Wrong thread!!! :eek:

colman
02-13-2010, 06:11 PM
he he he said strapon ....... gigidy gigidy o right

85cj7
02-13-2010, 07:02 PM
Twisted Off Road is offering a FREE 8,000 pound winch with the purchase of a Rough Country or BDS lift kit and install through our shop. This is good for any lift kit with a retail price of 499.95 and up. Good through the end of the month.

TdmayfieldIV
02-13-2010, 08:33 PM
we got his hitch on and two tow hooks on the front. The tow hooks poke through holes in the bumper, it will actually work pretty well

Sparling
02-14-2010, 06:39 PM
Twisted Off Road is offering a FREE 8,000 pound winch with the purchase of a Rough Country or BDS lift kit and install through our shop. This is good for any lift kit with a retail price of 499.95 and up. Good through the end of the month.

I can't afford a anything else for my truck right now, and I don't even know if I'm going to make it to gilmer. I have a winch i can probably get off of my grandpa that's at the farm right now, although it probably doesn't work it'd probably be a lot cheaper to rebuild that one that get a new one.

colman
02-14-2010, 06:50 PM
probably, depends on what kind of winch and what is broken, also we always like pics of progress

TdmayfieldIV
02-14-2010, 07:59 PM
I can't afford a anything else for my truck right now, and I don't even know if I'm going to make it to gilmer. I have a winch i can probably get off of my grandpa that's at the farm right now, although it probably doesn't work it'd probably be a lot cheaper to rebuild that one that get a new one.

why won't you make it to gilmer?

Sparling
02-14-2010, 09:03 PM
why won't you make it to gilmer?

I'm tight on money right now. I'll most likely be there though.

The first two pictures are of the two new tow hooks mounted directly to the frame with grade 8 bolts and then 3" tall by 6" wide holes cut in the bumper. Thanks to Tommy for letting me use some of his tools and his driveway. The last pic is my bumper sagging. I tried fixing it with a hi-lift but it didn't work. Anybody have any tips on how to fix it?

TdmayfieldIV
02-14-2010, 09:17 PM
I'm just passing it down:gigem:

85cj7
02-14-2010, 09:36 PM
if you fix it will it put the hole in your bumper off center for the pass. side hook now? it looks like it would. When you jacked up on it did you have that side of the bumper unbolted? I would unbolt that side and try to bend it back and then bolt it back up.

85cj7
02-14-2010, 09:38 PM
On second thought. . . I don't think it's your bumper that is fooked. I think it is the passanger side bumper bracket. Take that off and straighten it, then see how the bumper fits.

Eckert
02-14-2010, 09:45 PM
i say just leave it alone. save some money and just build a good one.

Sparling
02-14-2010, 09:51 PM
i say just leave it alone. save some money and just build a good one.

Gets my vote.


if you fix it will it put the hole in your bumper off center for the pass. side hook now? it looks like it would. When you jacked up on it did you have that side of the bumper unbolted? I would unbolt that side and try to bend it back and then bolt it back up.

The bumper looks straight in the center and then it looks like it bends down as it gets towards the outside, but I looked at the bracket when I had the bumper off and it's definitely bent.

DRAGOONRANCH
02-14-2010, 11:37 PM
Those ford bumpers are notorious for doing this. There has to be an 'easy' fix for it posted on the web somewhere.

stx4wheeler
02-14-2010, 11:52 PM
Yes there is a torch and a 3lb sledge.

Sparling
02-16-2010, 02:00 AM
I downloaded Google Sketch today and drew this up. I drew it in actual dimensions that would work on my truck. There's no way I'm putting 5 lights on my truck I just wanted to know what it would look like. Thoughts?

Hot Pocket
02-16-2010, 03:14 AM
Looks like you took a lot of time out of your day to draw some bars with some lights on them especially if there's no way you're going to do it in the first place:flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
02-16-2010, 07:51 AM
Looks like you took a lot of time out of your day to draw some bars with some lights on them especially if there's no way you're going to do it in the first place:flipoff2:

Hey hotpocket how's that Cherokee project going??? What about the muffler delete on the h2?:flipoff2:

bumper looks good man, it's gonna take alot of cutoff wheels welding to make that happen, now go get busy.

Sparling
02-16-2010, 07:59 AM
I didn't draw the lights and the whole bumper took about 30 minutes, and give me some good reasons why I can't make it.

colman
02-16-2010, 09:09 AM
hot pocket is just mad cause he drives a jetta, is out of pot and hates himself in general

Sparling
02-16-2010, 10:10 AM
Are there any problems with how I'm mounting the bumper or supporting the receiver tube? What thickness would be good to make this bumper out of? I'm going to collect some cardboard and make it out of that before I make the real thing.

RCcola55
02-16-2010, 11:42 AM
just weld a piece of tube in the front and gusset it well, come by the house and we can figure something out

DRAGOONRANCH
02-16-2010, 12:12 PM
http://centexoffroad.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=825&sid=23cf528aa3dc8214741fe46eeffed375

This is a link to a toyota bumper that a guy did like you are talking about. Has turned out decent so far.

85cj7
02-16-2010, 12:21 PM
Are there any problems with how I'm mounting the bumper or supporting the receiver tube? What thickness would be good to make this bumper out of? I'm going to collect some cardboard and make it out of that before I make the real thing.

3/16". 1/4" is going to be heavy as fook and hard to work with (although some people will tell you any less is p*ssy sh*t) The way it's designed with relatively small flat pieces and a large number of bends and braces will hold up just fine.

Eckert
02-16-2010, 12:27 PM
i would stay light as possible since your staying with the TTB. 3/16" should be the biggest you should consider to make everything out of.

nice bumper too, i need to download 'google sketch'. never heard of it.

robertf03
02-16-2010, 12:58 PM
are you using the pro or regular version?

Sparling
02-16-2010, 12:59 PM
are you using the pro or regular version?

Regular version.

Sharpe
02-16-2010, 01:04 PM
hot pocket is just mad cause he drives a jetta, is out of pot and hates himself in general

:laughing::laughing:

bcolman
02-16-2010, 01:15 PM
the bumper design looks good, but iff all of the tube that you show in your drawings is part of the bumper it might have to be changed some, it looks like it will hit the engine crossmember, but other than that it looks good

Sparling
02-16-2010, 01:22 PM
the bumper design looks good, but iff all of the tube that you show in your drawings is part of the bumper it might have to be changed some, it looks like it will hit the engine crossmember, but other than that it looks good

The two large tubes coming perpendicular to the face of the front of the bumper are the frame, everything else is the bumper. I could use a shorter receiver tube and move the brace for it closer to the front of the bumper.

robertf03
02-16-2010, 01:29 PM
are each of those plates individual pieces? I just downloaded sketchup and am messing with it, but I don't see any sheetmetal tools. If you think you really are going to build this bumper you would be doing yourself a favor by downloading inventor or solidworks, or using them in the scc.

If you redo it with them, you can get an unfolded model and have it cnc cut. Grinding is for suckers.

Sparling
02-16-2010, 01:33 PM
are each of those plates individual pieces?

yup

how much would having something like that CNC cut cost?

robertf03
02-16-2010, 01:52 PM
I'd guess around 2 bills with material. you feel like sharing that sketchup file? I'd like to see how you assembled that.

robertf2003@neo. (robertf2003@neo)

TdmayfieldIV
02-16-2010, 02:13 PM
more than a hefty bumper:flipoff2:

uglyota
02-16-2010, 02:43 PM
that's a really dam good job with sketchup. Did you start with a series of control points or something? Does sketchup let you export to dxf?

robertf03
02-16-2010, 02:50 PM
that's a really dam good job with sketchup. Did you start with a series of control points or something? Does sketchup let you export to dxf?

its a point cloud, you gis whore ;)

looks like only the pro version does dxf exports.

uglyota
02-16-2010, 03:22 PM
And I bet if you spent a few days working on it you could even figure out a hack to get the points' coordinates without buying the pro version! :)

well I'll be darned...soneone's already done it!
http://www.guitar-list.com/download-software/convert-sketchup-skp-files-dxf-or-stl
and apparently some laser cutters will work right from sketchup
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149650
holdon I got a better mission for you flem: rewrite the software for your cnc dremel to use sketchup directly! You could even do it in 3D! Just think of the potential for re-creating greek frieze and bas-relief art!
oh and your cnc dremel would be way cooler if you made it a cnc rotozip
dam I'm bored...

tommy53002
02-16-2010, 08:08 PM
I downloaded Google Sketch today and drew this up. I drew it in actual dimensions that would work on my truck. There's no way I'm putting 5 lights on my truck I just wanted to know what it would look like. Thoughts?

What is the purpose of the reciever? Looks good but i would ditch the reciever and add the winch plate for mounting the winch.

colman
02-16-2010, 08:59 PM
to move trailers but more importantly a recovery point

Sparling
02-16-2010, 09:23 PM
I'd like to have a receiver on there because it seems like I'm always doing the trailer moving at work, and my dad keeps our boat at a storage place in tight quarters so it'd make that easier to park it there.

Hot Pocket
02-16-2010, 11:31 PM
Hey hotpocket how's that Cherokee project going??? What about the muffler delete on the h2?:flipoff2:

bumper looks good man, it's gonna take alot of cutoff wheels welding to make that happen, now go get busy.
Cherokee project - up $500


hot pocket is just mad cause he drives a jetta, is out of pot and hates himself in general
:D story of my life

Seth
02-17-2010, 01:20 AM
thoughts...try to get the reciever tube moved up, though it would prob be tough to pin. also, move the tow points up. and im impressed with that drawing/software.

DRAGOONRANCH
02-17-2010, 02:09 AM
With the tow points, I would try to keep them as close to the frame mounts as possible. I would even go so far as to pierce the bumper with them and have them go back 3 or 4 inches onto the mount.

Sparling
02-17-2010, 03:03 AM
With the tow points, I would try to keep them as close to the frame mounts as possible. I would even go so far as to pierce the bumper with them and have them go back 3 or 4 inches onto the mount.

That's exactly what I did, if you look at the mount for the shackle, and the mount for the bumper, they are the same piece of metal that goes through the bumper.

I put a fair lead on the front of it, but for the winch tray, do I just put a flat piece of metal in the back if it to mount the winch to?

DRAGOONRANCH
02-17-2010, 03:24 AM
Depending on the winch, you could bolt the winch to the 'front' of the bumper. You would then take the shear stress off of the bolts and the force would be directed straight into the face of the bumper.

You would bolt the feet through the fairlead and the two red dots in this picture. Does this make any sense?

Sparling
02-17-2010, 03:52 AM
Yes, that makes sense, but would 2 bolts be enough to take the stress of a winch?

DRAGOONRANCH
02-17-2010, 05:04 AM
There would be four, two going through the fairlead, two through the 'red dots'. You would be taking almost all of the shear force off of them also. I had every intention of mounting mine like this, but was running short of time (and motivation).

bcolman
02-17-2010, 10:11 AM
you may take the shear stress off of the bolts holding on the winch, but it will still be on the bolts holding the bumper on to the truck

DRAGOONRANCH
02-17-2010, 10:23 AM
http://distractible.org/wp-content/plugins/RndmImgs/Captain%20Obvious%20evil%20scientist%202.jpg

robertf03
02-17-2010, 10:56 AM
move it way up for pin clearance

RCcola55
02-17-2010, 11:26 AM
lets do it

robertf03
02-17-2010, 11:59 AM
should fit on half a sheet of 4x8

RCcola55
02-17-2010, 12:02 PM
1/8 or 3/16 or do half and half

colman
02-17-2010, 12:15 PM
what does a sheet of metal run these days

robertf03
02-17-2010, 12:23 PM
no idea, but a fab shop pays less.

colman
02-17-2010, 12:27 PM
but they will still charge you the same or more than they bought it for

robertf03
02-17-2010, 12:31 PM
I'm not sure what your getting at, in my experience they charge by material used. That other half will go to other customers.

CheapJeep
02-17-2010, 12:54 PM
I bought a 4x8ft sheet of 1/4" for $130ish at Triple S in Houston back in the summer time.

agjohn02
02-17-2010, 01:46 PM
go get some mill plate at bryan iron and metal

Sparling
02-17-2010, 05:14 PM
I got some cardboard from uhaul today.

AggieTJ2007
02-17-2010, 07:02 PM
I think that Cody at Hughes Fab in Navasoto can cut it out for you, he is a TAMOR member but you may have not met him yet. The bumper looks good i like it

colman
02-17-2010, 07:15 PM
you can get free cardboard boxes from the computer labs on campus fyi, they usually have stacks of them from printer paper

Seth
02-17-2010, 09:15 PM
I like it. Tempted to have one cut for my white truck and just fig out a mount. I dont think I would want the reciever tube though. Would it fit a 9500 or 8274?

Sparling
02-20-2010, 01:13 AM
I like it. Tempted to have one cut for my white truck and just fig out a mount. I dont think I would want the reciever tube though. Would it fit a 9500 or 8274?

Looking at Warns website, it looks like it would fit the 8274 with the roller inside the bumper and the motor sticking through the top, and the 9500 looks like it would fit if you dropped it down a bit behind the bumper. The front plate on the bumper is 8" tall with another 2" below that where the receiver sticks through and the 9500 is 9" tall according to one website I found it on.

I got some extra wheels for my truck and I was thinking beadlocks, and looking around I found this:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEO-54-500023/

It's far cheaper than any other kit I've found, but the beadlock ring looks cheap and it only has 16 bolts per wheel. Thoughts on this kit?

85cj7
02-20-2010, 10:38 AM
I wouldn't. For a 15" wheels I think the norm is 32 bolts

bcolman
02-20-2010, 04:30 PM
those dont look like they would hold up getting beaten offroad, they are made for race cars

colman
02-20-2010, 07:30 PM
i got mine for under 200 shipped and they are 32 bolt, 1/4 thick

Sparling
02-23-2010, 09:20 PM
I need help. I just went to go start my truck, and it started fine, but when I turned on the lights, it died. Didn't even try to stay running. so I started it back up and turned on the parking lights and it stays running but won't rev up above around 2k RPMs, and when you turn the right blinker on the idle pulses with the blinker. I need to get this fixed or I'm not taking it to gilmer. Any ideas? It was way too cold to stand around and try to figure it out.

Edit: Truck runs perfectly fine when the lights are off.

85cj7
02-23-2010, 09:32 PM
voltage regulator in the alternator? Just an educated guess. Wait until flem or someone electric savy gets on line and has a better suggestion.

robertf03
02-23-2010, 09:36 PM
got a voltmeter? it sounds like the alternator is fooked. mud does that.

Sparling
02-23-2010, 09:38 PM
got a voltmeter? it sounds like the alternator is fooked. mud does that.

I left mine in San Antonio, but I'll go get a cheap one. Where should I check and what voltages should I be looking for?

This is all new to my truck today. I've driven it at night since soggy bottom and had no problems. I was thinking that the snow had something to do with it. My truck has never had a dead battery or died from anything before.

85cj7
02-23-2010, 09:39 PM
looks like an alternator will run you $115-$150. OUCH!

I would offer you my alternator on the jeep to see if that would fix your problem, but our 302s have different alternators I have the 3 wire later mustang alternator, 120amp if I remember. You have the standard 90 amp.

Sparling
02-23-2010, 09:46 PM
looks like an alternator will run you $115-$150. OUCH!

I would offer you my alternator on the jeep to see if that would fix your problem, but our 302s have different alternators I have the 3 wire later mustang alternator, 120amp if I remember. You have the standard 90 amp.

Thanks for the thought. I just bought it last fall so I'm going to see if Autozone will cover it under warranty .

Eckert
02-23-2010, 09:52 PM
ive had autozone warranty parts several years old that have come with trucks ive bought. no big deal. if not, take it over to BCS alternator over off 23rd in bryan. good guys.

KrazyKarl02
02-23-2010, 10:31 PM
Where should I check and what voltages should I be looking for?

Your truck should have a "volt" gauge on the dash (even if it is an xl and not the pimpin' tach dash). Sit in your truck, turn the key to "on" without the engine running. Start your truck, during cranking the voltage will go down. Once the engine is running your voltage gauge should increase slightly, about an 1/8".

If the gauge increases with the engine running, than more than likely your alternator is working. If it does not increase or it goes down, then more than likely your alternator is crap. The stock alternator on your truck is crap, it is like 85 amps, things like a winch, high performance radio or extra lights will take that alternator and skull **** it. There is a sweet upgrade that I have done, I'll see if I can find the link, at any rate 94 up trucks (I think) have a 150 amp or something alternator or like Ryan the mustang one is a bad dood.

Of course, if you have a warranty thru vato zone for free, I think we all know what to do....

KrazyKarl02
02-23-2010, 10:34 PM
Here is where I upgraded (http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?p=235843#post235843), FYI, the klogger engine was originally a 1990 302.

85cj7
02-23-2010, 11:02 PM
Here is where I upgraded (http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?p=235843#post235843), FYI, the klogger engine was originally a 1990 302.

my engine is a 90 H.O. 302 so it came with the sh*tty alternator as well. I have the same alternator as the klogger. Agreed worthwhile ugrade, but if you can get a free one go for it.

eight
02-23-2010, 11:12 PM
For those without fancy tools such as a $3 multimeter, I present an easy way to tell if the alternator is working.

Find something metal that will attract a magnet, something like a wrench or screwdriver. With the vehicle running, stick it to the bearing on the back of the alternator. If it sticks, alternator is working. If no sticky, no worky.

KrazyKarl02
02-23-2010, 11:14 PM
my engine is a 90 H.O. 302 so it came with the sh*tty alternator as well. I have the same alternator as the klogger. Agreed worthwhile ugrade, but if you can get a free one go for it.

You have a truck motor? I thought yours was a mustang with a mass air?

85cj7
02-24-2010, 12:23 AM
You have a truck motor? I thought yours was a mustang with a mass air?

it is. 302 H.O. from GT 90 mustang. so yes it is mass air

TdmayfieldIV
02-24-2010, 12:27 AM
or when its running, take the pos batt cable off. If it stays on the alternator is running, if not its not

Sparling
02-24-2010, 10:17 AM
or when its running, take the pos batt cable off. If it stays on the alternator is running, if not its not

That doesn't work on EFI.

KrazyKarl02
02-24-2010, 10:28 AM
That doesn't work on EFI.

Actually it does....

Sparling
02-24-2010, 10:44 AM
The computer needs a closed circuit to work, so when you disconnect the battery it shuts off whether you have a good alternator or a bad one. That's what I was told at least.

robertf03
02-24-2010, 11:07 AM
Optimas have smaller posts and sometimes do this trick for you. I can say that YJ's, CJ's, F150s, and Land Rovers all are capable of running with the battery disconnected at either post.

RCcola55
02-24-2010, 11:13 AM
ask him how he knows....

KrazyKarl02
02-24-2010, 11:19 AM
The computer needs a closed circuit to work, so when you disconnect the battery it shuts off whether you have a good alternator or a bad one. That's what I was told at least.

The computer needs a negative battery pole (a place for everything to tie into) for the ground to tie into, if you have bad battery connections what Flem was talking about can happen. But like Flem said you can remove the battery from a running EFI vehicle.

uglyota
02-24-2010, 11:27 AM
I don't get the "won't rev over 2k" part...this isn't a drive by wire... Maybe something like a weak alternator combined with a bad coil or ecm just barely getting the voltage it needs to run, and not enough to put out a bigger high-rpm spark?

and for the record, disconnect the positive post on a 350 vortec-equipped pickup or tahoe and the truck will shut off

Sparling
02-24-2010, 12:45 PM
I went to autozone and they gave me a new alternator even though my old one passed the test. I put the new one on, and still had the problem. Then I checked the headlights and the passenger headlight was barely working so i pulled it out of the housing and turned the headlights on, and the problem was gone. So something in the headlight was causing the engine to die when you turned the headlights on, I'm guessing too much condensation inside the headlight housing or a loose wire somewhere, but either way, the problem is gone and the truck runs fine now.

colman
02-24-2010, 12:49 PM
bad grounds make things act funny

85cj7
02-24-2010, 12:53 PM
glad you got it fixed, and you got a newer alternator out of the deal.

Sparling
02-28-2010, 06:20 AM
I went on the trip to BMRA this weekend, and had tons of fun and my truck, yet again, surpassed my expectations. I only incurred minor body damage. But my transmission is getting really worn out. When accelerating from a stop the truck shakes a lot, an flip flops between first and second gear a lot, but once I get up to highway speed, everything seems pretty smooth. Sound like time to look into rebuilding the E4OD?

AggieTJ2007
02-28-2010, 09:17 PM
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=829346&highlight=fast+juggy&page=9

here is some bad ass TTB stuff

85cj7
02-28-2010, 10:53 PM
http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/1576179555.html
http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/pts/1611169700.html
http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/1619706696.html

AggieTJ2007
02-28-2010, 11:58 PM
those are some pretty good deals plus you could rebuild your current trans and learn how to rebuild an automatic transmission

Seth
03-01-2010, 02:40 PM
filter/fluid change? I had the e4od in my white truck rebuilt by oliver brothers, not cheap, so if you can avoid it anyway i would. John brown has a good trans guy if it comes down to it.

Sparling
03-01-2010, 02:45 PM
filter/fluid change? I had the e4od in my white truck rebuilt by oliver brothers, not cheap, so if you can avoid it anyway i would. John brown has a good trans guy if it comes down to it.

Had the filter and fluid replaced last fall. Old enough to need replacing? It has had about 3500 miles since.

Seth
03-01-2010, 02:56 PM
prob not, but who knows. you did mention it is a high mile truck, any idea on the history of it? also, did they drain the torque converter also? might be worth draining it completely and refilling, making sure you run the right fluid, and throw in a bottle of lucas just for grins.

uglyota
03-01-2010, 03:01 PM
Since it sounds like you're fully prepared to beat this thing into an unrecognizable wad, maybe put some trick shift in it? Oughta make those bands a little stickier

Sparling
03-01-2010, 03:12 PM
I just put a full bottle of the lucas shift improver stuff in right before the trip last weekend. I bought the truck at a u-pull-it yard that was selling it as a "builder", but the only things i did to it were put a new pan/gasket/filter/fluid in for the transmission, and a few sensors with some new spark plugs. The reason for the new pan was because they picked my truck up with a forklift and FUBARed the original pan and it wouldn't let the transmission shift out of park. I know they did burnouts with it at the yard before i bought it because that's how they knew that the 4x4 was working. Otherwise I'm pretty sure that the PO used it as a business vehicle with lots of highway driving. There was a hands free setup installed and lots of wear on the drivers seat, makes me think a grossly overweight person owned it.

Sparling
03-01-2010, 10:33 PM
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=829346&highlight=fast+juggy&page=9

here is some bad ass TTB stuff

So basically, you can take a D50 TTB and it has a 9" carrier and you can use all D60 outer stuff? That seems like it would be pretty dang strong. Does D60 have the same bolt pattern as a Sterling axle? I'm thinking find a D50 TTB to strengthen up and use for the front and use a Sterling axle in the rear, put lockers in both and stay with about 35" tires, maybe 37's. That should hold up right?

TdmayfieldIV
03-01-2010, 10:36 PM
To tell you the truth i would make your truck run well before i started doing all of this stuff to the axles.

1. fix trans
2. fix electric ****
3. lift
4. tires

Then do the axle stuff. You need to do things to make it work at the current level of modification before you add any more

Sparling
03-01-2010, 10:50 PM
To tell you the truth i would make your truck run well before i started doing all of this stuff to the axles.

1. fix trans
2. fix electric ****
3. lift
4. tires

Then do the axle stuff. You need to do things to make it work at the current level of modification before you add any more

My truck runs fine, I just need to go get another starter solenoid, and I'm not doing this stuff right away, but it's nice to have a plan of where I want to eventually go, so if I see parts for cheap I can get them and also so I don't spend money on something only to go with something different later. I'm not worrying about axles for a while.

KrazyKarl02
03-01-2010, 11:29 PM
So basically, you can take a D50 TTB and it has a 9" carrier and you can use all D60 outer stuff? That seems like it would be pretty dang strong. Does D60 have the same bolt pattern as a Sterling axle? I'm thinking find a D50 TTB to strengthen up and use for the front and use a Sterling axle in the rear, put lockers in both and stay with about 35" tires, maybe 37's. That should hold up right?

TTB Dana 50's will not "bolt up" in your truck. Most of them are leaf springs for one thing. There is the rare and odd TTB50 with coil springs, but the hinge points mount in different locations, so the frame is different. The link that you are looking at has an insane amount of work.

My advice, put 35's or 36's on it. Leave the front open, I have beat the crap out of my TTB with 37's and I have never broken a shaft <knock on wood>. If you want to "lock" the rear, get a sterling.

Shaggy
03-01-2010, 11:32 PM
and dont ever put a locker in ttb... I broke a shaft everytime I wheeled with mine

KrazyKarl02
03-01-2010, 11:33 PM
Lift the TTB and leave it alone, gears or a locker will equal bad times.

stx4wheeler
03-01-2010, 11:46 PM
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1624299622.html

200 dollar 4 inch lift

Eckert
03-02-2010, 02:53 PM
i say dont drop a dime on TTB and go strait axle. no sense on wasting money on something you will eventually throw or give away. IN a timely matter of course. wheel it stock as is, then upgrade after you have the cash.

DRAGOONRANCH
03-03-2010, 12:46 AM
i say dont drop a dime on TTB and go strait axle. no sense on wasting money on something you will eventually throw or give away. IN a timely matter of course. wheel it stock as is, then upgrade after you have the cash.

Truer words have never been spoken. :gigem:

Sparling
03-03-2010, 03:03 AM
TTB Dana 50's will not "bolt up" in your truck.

I didn't know they didn't bolt up, or that they were pretty much all leaf set ups. So I guess i'm going to work on getting another trans for now then get ryans 4" lift when i get some money and then look for some bigger tires and some different wheels. I was told to put a lunch box locker in my rear diff. Is there any real big down side to putting one of those in a daily driver? Ryan also said that he's got some lockers for an 8.8 laying around, should I go with a real locker or do a lunch box locker?

Hot Pocket
03-03-2010, 03:30 AM
Here is a nice one
http://houston.craigslist.org/fuo/1617611757.html

KrazyKarl02
03-03-2010, 08:03 AM
Here is a nice one
http://houston.craigslist.org/fuo/1617611757.html

Someone in College Station beat the crap out of hot pocket for me.

Hot Pocket
03-03-2010, 08:28 AM
Someone in College Station beat the crap out of hot pocket for me.

you could totally fit a lunch box in there! :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

and for the record, yes I know what a locker is

Seth
03-03-2010, 09:12 AM
Going SAS off the batt is not a bad idea, but I would go d60 from the get go if I intended to wheel it. I did a d44 to get mine back on the road before my front end completely disentegrated, it was cheaper and simpler at the time. In the meantime, you can find enough second hand ttb stuff for cheap to keep it going.

RCcola55
03-03-2010, 09:30 AM
Ryan also said that he's got some lockers for an 8.8 laying around, should I go with a real locker or do a lunch box locker?

I only deal in real lockers!!

uglyota
03-03-2010, 10:11 AM
I did a d44 to get mine back on the road before my front end completely disentegrated, it was cheaper and simpler at the time.

:)

uglyota
03-03-2010, 10:13 AM
sparling for your rear axle on that truck I'd go welded/spooled or find and swap in an axle with an LSD.

colman
03-03-2010, 10:27 AM
its a dd, don't weld or spool it

DRAGOONRANCH
03-03-2010, 10:36 AM
Shadup! All the cool kids tires chirp when they make corners. :flipoff2:

RCcola55
03-03-2010, 11:12 AM
its a dd, don't weld or spool it

Ya quit trying to cut it on my busisness:flipoff2:

stx4wheeler
03-03-2010, 11:14 AM
Welded is the only way to roll unless you can afford arb's!!

uglyota
03-03-2010, 11:33 AM
its a dd, don't weld or spool it

he has a long wheel base, it'll be fine

DRAGOONRANCH
03-03-2010, 11:42 AM
Don't be bringing your hippie logic into this...

uglyota
03-03-2010, 11:52 AM
I hate hippies! all they do is smoke pot and smell bad!

DRAGOONRANCH
03-03-2010, 12:07 PM
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/DRAGOONRANCH/Stupid/Stupid_Hippy_Getting_Man_Handled.jpg

uglyota
03-03-2010, 12:24 PM
something about that picture has always struck me as "not quite right"
dude looks more like a tweaking hog farmer than a hippie.

TexTJ209
03-03-2010, 02:17 PM
Nightsticks don't discriminate.

Sparling
03-08-2010, 01:34 AM
Is installing an auto trans pretty straight forwards or are there some special tools you need to do the job?

Hot Pocket
03-08-2010, 02:57 AM
Is installing an auto trans pretty straight forwards or are there some special tools you need to do the job?

ratchet strap

KrazyKarl02
03-08-2010, 08:31 AM
Is installing an auto trans pretty straight forwards or are there some special tools you need to do the job?

Floor jack and some basic sockets, you should be able to do it. On my 1996 Bronco, I had to take part of the exhaust off.

BroncoJo
03-08-2010, 08:56 AM
Recruit friends, Dropping and even more so installing a transmission is a PITA by yourself.

I have a HF transmission jack, most of the time it seems to complicate things but your welcome to it.

Sparling
03-16-2010, 11:01 PM
Anybody know if a 2wd E4OD will work in a 4WD set up? I'm assuming I can just change my pan over and be good.

Eckert
03-16-2010, 11:12 PM
Anybody know if a 2wd E4OD will work in a 4WD set up? I'm assuming I can just change my pan over and be good.

what will the transfer case bolt to?

no

Sparling
03-16-2010, 11:28 PM
what will the transfer case bolt to?

no

Lots of duct tape?

New question. From what I've read a 95 E4OD won't work in my truck unless I rewired a connector or switch out the solenoid pack. How hard is it to switch the solenoid pack? I found an E4OD from a 95 but I want to make sure I can make it work before I buy it.

DRAGOONRANCH
03-16-2010, 11:40 PM
Fmrvb Ftw!

Sparling
03-16-2010, 11:44 PM
Fmrvb Ftw!

Would that work on a fully electronic trans? and if so, how hard would it be to put in?

DRAGOONRANCH
03-17-2010, 02:53 AM
Would that work on a fully electronic trans? and if so, how hard would it be to put in?

Actually, I don't know that there is one for that transmission. I will keep looking though.

Unless it's a 'shift by wire', it shouldn't be a hard install at all.

Sharpe
03-17-2010, 08:30 AM
For you and your truck, keep it basic for now. I.e., no RMVB. If ford transmissions are like GMs, you can use the 2wd housing and internals, but you will need to swap out the tailshaft. This basically requires taking the whole ****ing transmission apart. Its not "hard" but can be intimidating since most people believe automatic transmissions work on voodoo and magic smoke. I have done this twice on GM TH400's and both worked, so take that for what its worth. The Hayne's transmission manual is suprisingly thorough, so that might be worth picking up. You can read through and look at the pictures before deciding if you are up to the challenge.

Reckless
03-17-2010, 09:30 AM
ford and chevy transmissions are 2 different animals. chevy is easy. ford, not so much. Ford is probably the hardest out of the big 3 brands to rebuild. not saying you couldnt do it on your own. Just would get a second opinion

Sparling
03-17-2010, 08:45 PM
I can't find a 4wd E4OD in San Antonio, so I was thinking of just getting a 2wd E4OD and the driveshaft and putting it in my truck until I can rebuild my transmission and just leave the transfer case and front drive shaft off until the rebuild is complete. Thoughts?

KrazyKarl02
03-17-2010, 08:49 PM
I would bet between the 2 pick a parts (LKQ's) in houston, you could fins one E40D 4x4 tranny.

sasquatch
03-17-2010, 08:50 PM
For you and your truck, keep it basic for now. I.e., no RMVB. If ford transmissions are like GMs, you can use the 2wd housing and internals, but you will need to swap out the tailshaft. This basically requires taking the whole ****ing transmission apart. Its not "hard" but can be intimidating since most people believe automatic transmissions work on voodoo and magic smoke. I have done this twice on GM TH400's and both worked, so take that for what its worth. The Hayne's transmission manual is suprisingly thorough, so that might be worth picking up. You can read through and look at the pictures before deciding if you are up to the challenge.

isnt there a 4wd e4od sitting in your backyard?

RCcola55
03-17-2010, 08:55 PM
why yes there is!

Sparling
03-17-2010, 11:50 PM
Hey Sharpe, you wanna sell me that 4wd E4OD? What's the condition of it? Could it get me by for a few thousand miles?

85cj7
03-17-2010, 11:54 PM
the one out of ryan's old bronco?

Eckert
03-18-2010, 12:17 AM
I can't find a 4wd E4OD in San Antonio, so I was thinking of just getting a 2wd E4OD and the driveshaft and putting it in my truck until I can rebuild my transmission and just leave the transfer case and front drive shaft off until the rebuild is complete. Thoughts?

go to the pick n pull on the southeast side.

Sparling
03-18-2010, 12:23 AM
go to the pick n pull on the southeast side.

I went to Roosevelt u pull it and Pick N Pull today. Neither of them have a 4x4 E4OD in the yard. I might go back to Pick N Pull for some real nice seats though.

RCcola55
03-18-2010, 09:52 AM
ill let it go for $200 and u get an extra t-case with it. There are about 30k on it and have no clue of its status, but it should last u a fem more

Sparling
03-18-2010, 10:33 AM
ill let it go for $200 and u get an extra t-case with it. There are about 30k on it and have no clue of its status, but it should last u a fem more

PM sent. Just for reference, what year model is the E4OD from?

Sparling
04-02-2010, 12:55 AM
I'm guessing there should be some sort of cover here. I would imagine having my flywheel and torque converter exposed to all of the mud and sh!t I've taken my truck through would be bad for these components. So should there have been a cover here?

JB
04-02-2010, 09:13 AM
yes there is a cover for that. It is a thin piece of metal. At least there is on an AOD

KrazyKarl02
04-02-2010, 09:36 AM
Yeah, go rob it fron a junk yard, remember junk yards have a "special sale" this weekend, if you can put it in your pants, its free.

If you can't find one, I have one for a C6, don't know if it will fit.

Sharpe
04-02-2010, 09:50 AM
Yeah, go rob it fron a junk yard, remember junk yards have a "special sale" this weekend, if you can put it in your pants, its free.

If you can't find one, I have one for a C6, don't know if it will fit.

Or you can use a tool bag. That way you dont get grease all over your dick. Unless you're into that sort of thing. In which case, enjoy yourself.

stx4wheeler
04-02-2010, 11:03 AM
Or you can use a tool bag. That way you dont get grease all over your dick. Unless you're into that sort of thing. In which case, enjoy yourself.

That **** don't fly in h-town they check your tools going in and out!!

TexTJ209
04-02-2010, 01:10 PM
That's why Frick goes there every weekend.

Sparling
04-02-2010, 09:51 PM
I decided to go manual today.

Is there anything missing from this list of parts needed?
http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=24_66&products_id=346
http://www.bcbroncos.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=24_66&products_id=345
Zf5 Speed tranny
Bellhousing

KrazyKarl02
04-02-2010, 11:04 PM
I could be wrong, but I thought the ZF's had external slave cylinders, those look internal. Internal sucks my anus!

robertf03
04-03-2010, 02:29 AM
bellhousing is part of the transmission

finding a 5.0 flywheel sucked. mustang **** is tiny, and I think 5.8 stuff is different. I think I had to buy a new one from plano auto after much research, but this was a long time ago

I would recommend buying that stuff from a local parts store. Its easier to return it if you get the wrong thing which is very possible with this setup. They also are out of stock in the clutches, and appear to be deep frying the clutch hydraulics.


breaded SS hose and the slave cylinder. The M/C and slave cylinder are stock Ford parts.

Seth
04-03-2010, 09:32 AM
pedals. i say take one of your two e40d's (or both) to john browns trans guy, and see what he can do.

Sparling
04-03-2010, 10:26 AM
pedals. i say take one of your two e40d's (or both) to john browns trans guy, and see what he can do.

Everybody I've talked to, even my cousin who owns a transmission shop told me that this transmission will cost close to 2k to rebuild. I don't have that kind of money and I'd rather have a manual tranny anyways.

robertf03
04-03-2010, 10:32 AM
look at www.car-part.com (http://www.car-part.com) to see how much you'll be paying for a transmission. You'll easily spend more than $1000 on this swap.

stx4wheeler
04-03-2010, 10:58 AM
I agree with flem the manual parts are hard to find. Zf transmissions fetch a premium $500-700 for just the trans. You need to talk to williamace on the boards or get his phone number from someone. It is prolly in the members section. He has done almost this identical swap.

I think by the time you source parts and slap a new clutch in it your gonna be 1000-1200.

KrazyKarl02
04-03-2010, 11:55 AM
5.0 and 5.8 flywheels have different balancing weights (atleast the new ones, like your year do)

Seth
04-03-2010, 12:00 PM
Everybody I've talked to, even my cousin who owns a transmission shop told me that this transmission will cost close to 2k to rebuild. I don't have that kind of money and I'd rather have a manual tranny anyways.

OK, I think I will try to keep discussion to this thread. yes the auto will cost a good bit to rebuild, not disputing that. Oliver brothers did mine and put seals in my transfercase, also did the R&R, and it was 2300.

The manual swap, like everyone is saying, will also cost a good bit. Are you planning on a rebuilt/new manual trans? Also, take into account time and headaches.

I would think at least giving clarkes a shot would be a good idea.

What is the old trans doing?

Seth
04-03-2010, 12:04 PM
Also, think about the other crap that makes it a nice conversion, like eliminating the PRNDL, including a clutch starter interlock, eliminating the column shift/column, any ECM differences, etc.

colman
04-03-2010, 12:20 PM
best bet is buy a parts truck with a blown motor or something if your that serious

stx4wheeler
04-03-2010, 12:46 PM
Also don't forget about driveshafts

Eckert
04-28-2010, 07:11 PM
best bet is buy a parts truck with a blown motor or something if your that serious

you dont say!

seems like a good deal if your still interested. take what you need and you could still get a few hundred back on scrap. i get the seats and console for a finders fee:flipoff2:

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/1715241408.html

colman
04-28-2010, 07:16 PM
or get it and swap ur motor in

Sparling
04-29-2010, 01:58 AM
I'm just going to stay automatic for now mainly because of the low down time. I'm just waiting on a new torque converter and when I get home I'm installing it all so I can start driving it again, and start bleeding blue again instead of driving my dad's suburban around.

The only issue I have is that the transmission in my truck is cable shifted ans the one I got from Clarke is linkage shifted so I have to figure something out for that. Anybody have any ideas?

Sparling
05-23-2010, 01:25 PM
Got the transmission in yesterday and got it running this morning. Drives pretty well, I just have to add another quart or two of fluid later today. Too answer my own question in my last post, you can change out the shaft that the shifts the transmission between different year E4OD's so the shifter matches the truck, you just need needle nose pliers to take out the little pin that retains the shaft inside the housing.

The next step is to paint the truck, which I am also doing.When I prime the truck would it be good to sand it down to bare metal or can I just scuff up and clean the old paint really well before I lay down the new paint? There isn't any rust it's just old faded and slightly oxidized paint. I'm going to prime it and then spray on the Paint Shop lacquer paint that they sell at the various car parts stores, anybody used this stuff before?

Eckert
05-23-2010, 01:47 PM
there is no reason to take it down to bare metal.

KrazyKarl02
05-23-2010, 01:50 PM
It is always best to sand it down to bare metal. But for a sub $2000 truck you can just sand/scuff the paint and the stuff will hold.

In my opinion, what makes a good paint job is not when you are painting, but all the prep work of sanding, priming, etc... There are lots of people on here that know way more about it than me. Remember if you see something in the primer/sanding stages, fix it. Putting a glossy paint on it will only highlight it.

I am assuming you have a decent paint gun?

RCcola55
05-23-2010, 02:10 PM
take it to bare metal if you want it to come out decent, otherwise sand it to 600 then spray ur primer sand again to 600 then base, also spend the money on a good single stage paint not the parts store ****, or man up do the whole thing right and spray a good base/clear. Like karl said prep is the key! DA, block, and then clean with a GOOD wax and grease remover then go over with a tack cloth, take you time in the taping department as well. Hopefully fred will chime in on this

Sparling
05-23-2010, 03:00 PM
I am assuming you have a decent paint gun?

My grandpa has a spray gun, I don't know it's origin or quality and he's never used it.


...spend the money on a good single stage paint not the parts store ****...

What would be a good single stage paint to use and where can I get it. I know automotive paint can get expensive quick and I don't want to spend a ton of money on paint. My expectations are maybe factory quality or slightly better.

RCcola55
05-23-2010, 04:27 PM
if your expections are for a better then factory spray job it is going to take a lot of work IMO. You will need to atleast remove the bed and strip everything down to bare metal, take the time to block the whole truck out, and if you hvae never done it before it can get tricky quick. Then you will need to spray a primer/sealer and repeat blocking, then prime again sanding to atleast 600 each stage. I would recommend shooting a base clear, but if money is tight then go with the single stage. Like i said fred would know better then me on what to use. Either way you will be able to get a good finish with the right amount of prep work and buffing after the fact. I would say dont expect to pay less the $500 for materials. Also found out what gun your grandpa has, the right gun makes a difference.

All that being said, if you were to lower your expections then you could get by with less work and slightly less money, but IMO dont waste your time, there is nothing worse then a ****ty paint job

Sparling
05-23-2010, 06:49 PM
I have a problem with the transmission. I took it on the highway for the first time and it won't go into overdrive and the overdrive button has no effect on it. I'm thinking it's the MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor) and it thinks it's in second instead of drive. It won't start in park but it will start in neutral so I know I need to adjust it but I'm not sure if the MLPS is affecting that too or not. It has the right amount of fluid and it shifts smoothly when it does shift. Any transmission experts here or should I venture over to FSB or FTW?

RCcola55
05-23-2010, 08:59 PM
sounds like you need to adjust it

Sparling
05-25-2010, 07:38 PM
I tried adjusting it and even got a new MLPS and it still doesn't shift past 2nd. What else could cause this? It starts in park and neutral now.

colman
05-25-2010, 08:29 PM
automatics should start in park and neutral

Sparling
05-25-2010, 08:34 PM
I know. It didn't before I got the new MLPS. Just saying that because I think whatever causing in not to upshift isn't the MLPS since that problem is no longer a problem.

Seth
05-25-2010, 08:53 PM
this is a stretch on an electronically controlled trans, but try putting it in 1 and then manually shifting up as youu accelerate.

Sparling
05-26-2010, 05:59 PM
this is a stretch on an electronically controlled trans, but try putting it in 1 and then manually shifting up as youu accelerate.

No dice. It shifted into 3rd today one time this morning but hasn't done it since then. Any other ideas?

edit: the shift to third was well after the manual shift test.

stx4wheeler
05-26-2010, 08:15 PM
Take it to a trans shop, they will prolly charge you 50-100 then tell you what's wrong. Then you can go from there so you don't waste your cash buying new and not needed parts. Of course this assumes they don't just tell you it needs to be rebuilt.

Sparling
05-31-2010, 11:25 PM
Is there any way to get the valves inside the valve body unstuck? The guy at the trans shop said that since the trans has been sitting in a yard for a while the valves are probably stuck hence the no overdrive problem. He told me to add a conditioner to the fluid and it will probably get unstuck through driving it with the conditioner in the fluid but I want to make sure the valve gets unstuck instead of hoping it does. Any ideas?

Eckert
05-31-2010, 11:34 PM
don't buy a junk yard trans next time?

RCcola55
05-31-2010, 11:50 PM
dexter yard trans

Sparling
06-01-2010, 12:07 AM
don't buy a junk yard trans next time?

Yeah, I could just pay somebody 2k to fix my old one for me. Good plan. Go buy a new car so you never have to fix anything on an old one.

Eckert
06-01-2010, 01:00 AM
Yeah, I could just pay somebody 2k to fix my old one for me. Good plan. Go buy a new car so you never have to fix anything on an old one.

:rolleyes:

Sharpe
06-01-2010, 08:21 AM
don't buy a junk yard trans next time?


:rolleyes:

Translation: I give a douchbag answer and the newb fires back so I'll just put up a condescending rolly-eyes since I dont have a better rebuttal.

Put a bottle or two of Lucas additive in it and see where that gets you. ****'s magic.

robertf03
06-01-2010, 09:35 AM
Translation: I give a douchbag answer and the newb fires back so I'll just put up a condescending rolly-eyes since I dont have a better rebuttal.

Put a bottle or two of Lucas additive in it and see where that gets you. ****'s magic.

:rolleyes:

uglyota
06-01-2010, 11:10 AM
you could pull the pan and manually free each of the little balls then replace pan and refill, or even see if you could ream out each of the holes and put bigger balls in it, or you could do a shift kit (new thicker plate/new springs/new balls). All better options than just adding lucas and driving it :flipoff2: