Who had March 14th?

[KrazyKarl02]

Haynes manuals are worthless. Spend the money and get the factory ford manuals.

Something like this:

http://www.tias.com/11384/PictPage/1922298514.html

or

http://www.autobooksbishko.com/item.cgi?id=119

Factory manuals are sometimes broken into 2 or 3 "volumes". One for chasis, one for drivetrain, etc... You can probably find these cheaper on ebay.

There is probably someone selling it for $5 on CD. I see on here where someone said the CD sucked. I myself like the CD because it is cheap. I have a lap top and can set it next to me while working on the car...

All that being said it is a 1978 Bronco, how complicated can this thing be?

[Hot Pocket]

Haynes manuals are worthless. Spend the money and get the factory ford manuals.

Something like this:

http://www.tias.com/11384/PictPage/1922298514.html

or

http://www.autobooksbishko.com/item.cgi?id=119

Factory manuals are sometimes broken into 2 or 3 "volumes". One for chasis, one for drivetrain, etc... You can probably find these cheaper on ebay.

There is probably someone selling it for $5 on CD. I see on here where someone said the CD sucked. I myself like the CD because it is cheap. I have a lap top and can set it next to me while working on the car...

All that being said it is a 1978 Bronco, how complicated can this thing be?

That second link is perfect! Thanks Karl.

It hasn't been too bad, I feel like Ford put a lot of thought into making these things as simple as possible. I think the manuals are going to come in handy once I can really start tearing this thing apart.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

They just didn't have the tech yet to make it any more complicated (or any emissions/safety standards to have to adhere to) :D

[Eckert]

They just didn't have the tech yet to make it any more complicated (or any emissions/safety standards to have to adhere to) :D

grant it its a '79 truck, so the basis on how it works is simple to understand. but im pretty sure i pulled 3.82 miles of vacuum hoses and other emissions related bull**** out from under the hood.

HP, if you want it to run better. pull the 80lb cast iron intake and put on a aluminum one w/ a appropriate 4bbl carb.

[KrazyKarl02]

grant it its a '79 truck, so the basis on how it works is simple to understand. but im pretty sure i pulled 3.82 miles of vacuum hoses and other emissions related bull**** out from under the hood.

Agreed from 1975 to about 1985 there was so much emissions crap on there, that is what complicates the thing. However most of it can be removed.

[jerryg79]

fun fact

77 cat
78 no cat
79 cat

the whole modified family came about because of lame emissions stuff.

[uglyota]

grant it its a '79 truck, so the basis on how it works is simple to understand. but im pretty sure i pulled 3.82 miles of vacuum hoses and other emissions related bull**** out from under the hood.

HP, if you want it to run better. pull the 80lb cast iron intake and put on a aluminum one w/ a appropriate 4bbl carb.

corrections: "Granted" and "2bbl" :flipoff2:

[TdmayfieldIV]

grant it its a '79 truck, so the basis on how it works is simple to understand. but im pretty sure i pulled 3.82 miles of vacuum hoses and other emissions related bull**** out from under the hood.

HP, if you want it to run better. pull the 80lb cast iron intake and put on a aluminum one w/ a appropriate 4bbl carb.

true, The good thing is, you can just take it all off and plug the holes and it doesn't affect anything..........except emissions:flipoff2:

[Hot Pocket]

Tell me what your oil pressure is and I'll tell you what oil to use!!! I'll respond to your pm when I'm back in Texas and not drunk.
I'm running 10w30 castrol high mileage. Cold it will idle at around 80 psi. Cruising it will bounce between 50-60. Hot Idle will usually be a good 30. I hear those numbers are pretty healthy for these m block motors.


Now that you mention it, when I first installed the new battery and new alternator, I put the voltmeter to the battery and was reading like 17.8 volts... It seemed a bit high, but I didn't think twice about it until now.

A month later with the new alternator and battery, and it still charges up to 18 volts. I feel like that is a lot, Anything to be concerned about?


but his truck's not lifted, right? DW shouldn't even start if the caster's right (i.e. stock), tires are balanced, toe-in is set, and ball joints and tie rod ends are tight. My guess is that this rig just needs some maintenance first (ball joints/TREs)

What brand for ball joints? Anything I should stay away from? I figure I might as well knock them out while I'm doing bushings.

I finally found the electrical short, and am kicking myself for not realizing it earlier. The PO had tried to wire up his brake lights/tail lights/ reverse lights via 6 different trailer pin adapters. Once I got all that crap pulled, the battery stopped losing charge. :gigem:

Now, I need to wire up the taillights, brake lights, etc. The haynes manual is difficult to work with, but it's getting the job done. I found some useful diagrams on this site if anyone is interested.
http://7879blueovalbronco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6

[RCcola55]

moog

[JB]

or Spicer. Not oriellys house brand

[Hot Pocket]

or Spicer. Not oriellys house brand

Is it true that Raybestos is just rebadged spicer?

[Hot Pocket]

I need some help.

I was replacing the track bar bushings today and I was able to get the nut off of the front of the trackbar bolt. The bolt is stuck in there, I think it has been wallowed out from wobbling so many times. What are my options? Sawzall is out and buy a new bolt?

Here is a picture.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs047.snc3/13446_457331144621_816379621_6197821_6132688_n.jpg

[85cj7]

Why can't you pound it out with a hammer? Will the bolt turn at all?

[TdmayfieldIV]

here's the proper tool.

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:Tq4f3pJmBgrEHM:http://www.risenchristdavenport.org/images/sledgehammer.jpg

[Hot Pocket]

The pitman arm is in the way of hitting it with a hammer. I tried

[stx4wheeler]

That bracket/shock mount is held on with two bolts take it off and pound it out.

[85cj7]

Turn the bolt in reverse to back it out, it will work it's way out until the threads are flush with the bracket, then grab the bolt with pliers and wiggle it out.

[uglyota]

Turn the bolt in reverse to back it out, it will work it's way out until the threads are flush with the bracket, then grab the bolt with pliers and wiggle it out.

yep this. If you can get your impact on it just keep it spinning and push on the end with a drift or something if you can until the threads catch and it will spin right out

[Hot Pocket]

I think I explained the situation incorrectly. The bolt is completely wallowed out, when I try to turn it from the other side, it does not go anywhere. I will have to cut it out and replace it.

I have checked rockauto, and I believe this is the right part I need to replace it with.

It is under 1979 Bronco->400->Suspension->Trackbar.

Part number 88913259

Also... gonna need a new radiator

[TdmayfieldIV]

ho reillys has radiators for cheap

[stx4wheeler]

What's wrong with your radiator?

Do not put a replacemt radiator in thier if it is smaller the truck won't stay cool. I would personally get one from a junkyard.

I also still don't understand why you can't get the bolt out.

[TdmayfieldIV]

I got my radiator from ho'Reilly's and it is the same size as the old one. Mine was really clogged up and i got it for like $128 so it was cheaper than having it repaired.

Seriously Hp, give me a ****ing break, if you can't get at it with a hammer, do what frick said and take the shock mount off. Its not ****ing hard it just takes time.

[Sharpe]

What's wrong with your radiator?

Do not put a replacemt radiator in thier if it is smaller the truck won't stay cool. I would personally get one from a junkyard.

I also still don't understand why you can't get the bolt out.

Wtf? I have O'Reillys radiators in Pigpen and my crewcab and they are fine. They have the best prices of all the parts stores as well.

[stx4wheeler]

"If it is smaller." The radiators in the trucks with m blocks are fawking huge. In gonna assume that the crap orielys has is a plastic tank radiator that is also not the same dimensions of his factory radiator. I fought this problem on big nasty, with having a radiator that was to small.

[Sharpe]

The radiator on my crewcab is "fawking huge" as well as having plastic tanks and an aluminum core. The plastic tank units are the same size, half the price and work just as well as a brass and copper one. There is a reason the manufacturers have been using them for the last 15 years.

[TdmayfieldIV]

they have plastic tank ones with an aluminum core and one with brass tanks that is exactly like the stock one. I paid for the plastic one and they gave me the brass one:gigem:

[Sparling]

Is your rad. you have right now clogged, leaky, or what?

[uglyota]

This part number...this is for a bolt?
you know they sell bolts at lowes, home depot, tractor supply, ace, mack, john deere, napa, horeillys, etc etc, right?
This isn't a rice/kraut racer. You can beat on it and use readily available parts.

[jerryg79]

i envision something similar to the "Its in the computer" scene in Zoolander with Hot Pocket dancing around like a monkey with hammer hitting various parts of the truck.

"Its so simple!"

[robertf03]

Wtf? I have O'Reillys radiators in Pigpen and my crewcab and they are fine. They have the best prices of all the parts stores as well.

that 1-800 radiator place was selling really cheap disco radiators, they were plastic capped 2 row aluminum core pieces of crap compared to the all brass 4 core stock radiator. It looked similar to the one I got for my f150 from oreillys

[Seth]

I might give you 5 bucks for that old one hot pocket.

[Hot Pocket]

i envision something similar to the "Its in the computer" scene in Zoolander with Hot Pocket dancing around like a monkey with hammer hitting various parts of the truck.

"Its so simple!"

:laughing:

I was lowering the truck off of a jack and the radiator collapsed onto the top of the jack, punching a nice hole in it.

Either way, It's stuck sitting in a storage unit for the next three months. :(

[BroncoJo]

stay on topic

[AggieTJ2007]

Damn moderators. on topic how do you lower the truck onto the radiator? were you jacking the truck up by the core support or what

[breckboarder55]

Now that you are in Houston there is a place off of Veterans Memorial (IIRC) that re-cores radiators. Radiator barn or something?

I got one for the Jeep through them for $90-core fee. The crappy plastic end tank cracked months later, and the guy gave me a new one for free.

[AggieTJ2007]

I ordered a cheap all aluminum radiator off of Ebay for the jeep. Quality looks decent basically they are just welding aluminum endcaps on the aluminum cores

[Hot Pocket]

Was jacking the diff, and I only have one of the bars that goes into the jack (the other mysteriously disappeared after my roommate borrowed it :rolleyes:)

Also my jack lets all the pressure out at once, there is no lowering it slowly

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Was jacking after my roommate lets all the pressure out at once, there is no lowering it slowly

???

[AggieTJ2007]

ah so your handle is too short and you can't turn it slow enough to release the pressure slowly

[breckboarder55]

I don't get it?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

really???

[Hot Pocket]

Clayton checklist

- Fix radiator
- Change bushings on front axle
- New trackbar bolt
- Smaller tires
- Seat covers

Someone come help me please ;)

[agjohn02]

- Smaller tires


???

[DRAGOONRANCH]

???

HP is hung like a horse and doesn't need to compensate like the rest of us....

[colman]

he has no lift so i assume it hits...... pull out the sawzall and don't be a puss. if you take your time it will look good.

[jerryg79]

he has no lift so i assume it hits...... pull out the sawzall and don't be a puss. if you take your time it will look good.

fo' real, didnt james fit 42's with 2" lift on his bronco:gigem:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Put the plasma torch to it! I know there has to be a few folks that bought some on the cheap a while back that are itchin to hack....er, I mean cut something up! :D

[Shaggy]

broncos trim up nicely

[DRAGOONRANCH]

broncos trim up nicely

yeah, just ask clarke to show you his. I bet he can bring the whole thing over in his back seat....

[Shaggy]

Mine fit in the bed on the dodge. You didn't get that did you

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Oh I did. I just wanted to get a dig in on Clarke. I love to kick a man when he has a hole in his eyelid....

[Hot Pocket]

HP is hung like a horse and doesn't need to compensate like the rest of us....
:gigem:


Put the plasma torch to it! I know there has to be a few folks that bought some on the cheap a while back that are itchin to hack....er, I mean cut something up! :D

torch my bumpers, they are going to need to be cut before clayton now that I think about it.

Started working on the cooling problems yesterday. I pulled the radiator and it's not in good shape... so it's looking like I'm going to need a new radiator. Can anyone recommend a good place to take my old one to try and get it repaired first?

New list
- Repair/ Replace Radiator
- Replace fan shroud (old one was falling to pieces and held on by some glue.... where can I find one? I checked rockauto and no luck.)
- Hack off trackbar bolt and replace
- Find someone to torch off my bumpers :D
- New ujoints in front driveshaft
- SMALLER TIRES! Does anyone want to trade some 33's for some 35's? My TSL's are in good shape.
- New fluids

And no I'm not going to torch any fenders... for the time being :flipoff2:

[tommy53002]

You can try siegert radiator in bryan. I have not used them on a radiator but they did fine on aluminum brazing.

[Hot Pocket]

You can try siegert radiator in bryan. I have not used them on a radiator but they did fine on aluminum brazing.

I'm in Houston (I-10 and Beltway 8 west)

Looking for more of a local option.. My fault for not specifying.

[jerryg79]

you need any work done or parts goto Offroad Unlimited on Hwy 6 and Westheimer.

[colman]

are you in houston permanent... i live at memorial and dairy ashford..... just open the yellow pages. its houston it has to have lots of radiator shops.

[Hot Pocket]

are you in houston permanent... i live at memorial and dairy ashford..... just open the yellow pages. its houston it has to have lots of radiator shops.

Are you serious? I'm staying at Memorial and Brittmoore (between wilcrest and the beltway)

I'm pretty sure you're only like 5-10 minutes from me.

Thanks for the info Jerry. I'd rather use a reputable shop than just some vato-radiator shop in the yellow pages

[DRAGOONRANCH]

you need any work done or parts goto Offroad Unlimited on Hwy 6 and Westheimer.



Thanks for the info Jerry. I'd rather use a reputable shop than just some vato-radiator shop in the yellow pages

It's a good place, just be careful. There is this hobbit of a guy there named Lu, he is real wierd and will really screw your rig up if you let him work on it and it will take three months as all he does it tell funny stories. I think he is butt buddies with some guy named S. Adams (iirc)

[stx4wheeler]

There are a ton of ghetto auto shops around that part of town hot pocket, it won't be hard to find a radiator place.

[colman]

memorial isn't exactly loaded with ghetto auto shops frick. i'm not shure what you are thinking...

[uglyota]

dude getting a radiator rodded is not rocket science. Any vato rad shop can be trusted to do that

[jerryg79]

i think he missed the "west"

[Shaggy]

when you hack off that huge bumper I have the bumper I built for my bronco still. it will work good and I will sell it to you for less than you will spend on materials to build something just the same

[stx4wheeler]

memorial isn't exactly loaded with ghetto auto shops frick. i'm not shure what you are thinking...

Have you ever driven down brittmore? That rd is ****sville, also down clay inside the beltway, and Hempstead as well there are tons of bootleg shops that are all close him.

[TdmayfieldIV]

Hey Hp, I'll trade you my mud grapplers. They say 35" but they're really like 33 or 34

[Hot Pocket]

Have you ever driven down brittmore? That rd is ****sville, also down clay inside the beltway, and Hempstead as well there are tons of bootleg shops that are all close him.
Have you ever driven down Brittmoore? I drive down it every day, and I can honestly say it is one of the nicer parts of Houston, as long as you stay south of I-10.


Hey Hp, I'll trade you my mud grapplers. They say 35" but they're really like 33 or 34

I'll pass, I'm not looking for bald tires but thanks:flipoff2:

[mudtoy67]

Have you ever driven down Brittmoore? I drive down it every day, and I can honestly say it is one of the nicer parts of Houston, as long as you stay south of I-10.


:laughing:

Yes, that whole 1/2 mile of Brittmoore south of I10 is so nice. Try going north.:laughing:

[Broncocustom]

fo' real, didnt james fit 42's with 2" lift on his bronco:gigem:

I only had to trim a few inches off each fender, of course I didn't care what it looked like as long as it worked.

[Hot Pocket]

My mom has decided to pay to fix my radiator for me as a birthday gift, which was very sweet of her, so the radiator situation has been taken care of.

I'm still looking for a junkyard where I can find a good 130 amp 3g Ford alternator so that I can go ahead with this 3g swap I have been reading about on FSB. Hopefully this will fix some of the truck's electrical issues. If anyone can recommend a yard that would be wonderful.

While I'm there I'm also going to be looking for a fan shroud and/or any other sweet deals that seem too good to pass up.

I've found a fiberglass top with the sliding glass windows for $100. I'm planning on picking that up on Wednesday.

Colman - do you have any free time this next week to show me what I need to do with my front driveshaft?

Corey, you have a pm

Still looking for a decent set of 33's

[stx4wheeler]

Save yourself the trouble and buy a new alternator. I know they are expensive, but it will come with a warranty.

[jerryg79]

why do you need a bigger alternator?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

why do you need a bigger alternator?

1OtmKwIEn9s


or

dtH6-7rj_TU

[DRAGOONRANCH]

chmPWKMD2TI

[breckboarder55]

1OtmKwIEn9s



Don't hate on Sublime :flipoff2:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Oh there is NO hate here! http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/DRAGOONRANCH/GIFS/jamminz.gif

[tommy53002]

Still looking for a decent set of 33's

Not sure what you mean by decent set of 33's but I have an old set of 4 33x 12.5x15 that have been sitting around for a while. I dont remember the brand but they are a fairly nonaggresive all terrain. Still had decent tread. I just want to get rid of them $50 takes all four they are on chrome wagon wheels 5x5.5 bolt patter. pm if youre interested

[TdmayfieldIV]

Hp, do yourself a favor and get some e-fans at the jy. I got mine out of a dodge minivan, they are dual 12" pushers. I wired them individually to a external fuse box and a 50 amp ground switch in the cab. They help a ton

[colman]

if he doesn't take those 33's i want them. where are they located? even if he gets them i will probably end up delivering them to him ***

[Hot Pocket]

Tommy- I definitely want the 33s. I'll drive to come pick them up for you, let me know please!

Jerry - It's not so much the bigger alternator, as much as it's the 3g alternator. The 3g ford alternators have internal regulators and have less problems than the old 1gs (or at least that is the consensus on FSB.) I've had many people there tell me that the 3g is pretty much the only sure-fire way to get rid of the quirky electrical system in my truck.

Plus I'd love to have a jammin' sound system :flipoff2:

Also on my to-buy list are some new gauges. I'm looking for a Voltmeter and a Water Temp gauge. If anyones got some laying around, let me know.

Frick- Fair enough on the alternator, but can anyone recommend a junkyard for other old ford parts?

EDIT -- oh, and I need some shocks, can anyone find me a decent set of 4 on the cheap?

[KrazyKarl02]

My understanding of the newer ford internal reg altenators is that they are simpler to hook up, however the one everyone likes (the 94 up truck and mustang alternator, I have one in the Klogger, Seacreast has one in the Jeep and Garrett has one in the EB) is much more prown to failure with dust, mud, etc...

All that being said the stock ford truck alt is like 90 amps, which brings the suck when you run a winch! The 3G is like 135 or so, much better.

[tommy53002]

if he doesn't take those 33's i want them. where are they located? even if he gets them i will probably end up delivering them to him ***

They are in New Caney. Hotpocket, you have a pm.

[breckboarder55]

You can get a re-man from Oreillys for like 90 bucks, and get some back from the "core fee".

[85cj7]

Seacreast has one in the Jeep .

I love you Karl:flipoff2:

[85cj7]

What kind of shocks are you looking for? This thing has no lift right? Why do you need new shock? Are there any on it now?

[85cj7]

Rockauto has some super cheapos at $10 each for motorcraft brand and Monroe at $20 each.

Oreillys also has the same Monroe shocks for the same price available in store. For $20 each you can't get much cheaper and Monroe are not entirely ****.

[Eckert]

i know your in Houston. But BCS alternator off of 26th in Bryan are kick ass and righteous. talked to him about my making the alt on my '79 150 amp and internally regulated. $100 if i provided a core.

also second the superduty monroe shocks. about $22 a piece.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

i know your in Houston. But BCS alternator off of 26th in Bryan are kick ass and righteous. talked to him about my making the alt on my '79 150 amp and internally regulated. $100 if i provided a core.

also second the superduty monroe shocks. about $22 a piece.

So you had to take him yours plus a core? Or was he considering yours the core?

[Hot Pocket]

What kind of shocks are you looking for? This thing has no lift right? Why do you need new shock? Are there any on it now?
Shocks that will accomodate a 4" (ish) lift. I'm just trying to gather the parts so that it will all be done at once, and the truck will not be in pieces for a long period of time (hopefully.) Shocks are the last piece to my puzzle.

edit - it has shocks now, they are terrible


i know your in Houston. But BCS alternator off of 26th in Bryan are kick ass and righteous. talked to him about my making the alt on my '79 150 amp and internally regulated. $100 if i provided a core.

also second the superduty monroe shocks. about $22 a piece.

What was the name of the guy you talked to?

[Eckert]

So you had to take him yours plus a core? Or was he considering yours the core?

just one core for exchange. could be anything.


What was the name of the guy you talked to?

whoever answers the phone. he owns the place.

[Fredo]

Monroe are ****.

Here...fixed it for ya.

[85cj7]

don't know what you think is cheap, but broncograveyard has lifted shocks for $30 each.

[Hot Pocket]

Got a new radiator today, thank you mom!

Found a used radiator at this hole-in-the-wall place in Dickinson. The guy said he had it sitting there for two years. It came out of a 76 model Ford pickup; he said it was cooling a 460. He only used it for 3 months.

The guy even painted it for me... all for $100

[bcolman]

since when do you paint radiators?

[Eckert]

since when do you paint radiators?

when you charge someone $100, its makes them feel better about themselves.

Off to spray bomb all my parts!

[BroncoJo]

**** I would have sold you a painted radiator for 50

[breckboarder55]

Got a new radiator today, thank you mom!

Found a used radiator at this hole-in-the-wall place in Dickinson. The guy said he had it sitting there for two years. It came out of a 76 model Ford pickup; he said it was cooling a 460. He only used it for 3 months.

The guy even painted it for me... all for $100

You got fawked :rolleyes:

[jerryg79]

if you would have followed him to the bank, you would have noticed him laughing for full extent of the trip.

[Hot Pocket]

beats the 200 for a new one.. oh well. im happy

[breckboarder55]

I have some "brand new to me" JL 12" subs 1300W, you can have them for just $200.00 a piece... That's like getting 50% off! They haven't been used since like 2005. :gigem:

[Hot Pocket]

Feel free to heckle all you want... Me and my quasi-new radiator will have the last laugh!! :flipoff2:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I have some "brand new to me" JL 12" subs 1300W, you can have them for just $200.00 a piece... That's like getting 50% off! They haven't been used since like 2005. :gigem:

I'll take that deal! You will recieve a money order in the mail in one week for twice the asking price. Please pay the courrier $100 of that when he comes to pick up the parts and keep the rest for your inconvenience. I look happy to doing business with you.

Edward Toobatongo Buster-Prince of Cameroon (Home to the Fighting Yoemen Tribe)

[mudtoy67]

Feel free to heckle all you want... Me and my quasi-new radiator will have the last laugh!! :flipoff2:

You're supposed to end that with "muwhahaha".:D

[robertf03]

since when do you paint radiators?

brass, not aluminum and plastic

[BMFScout]

since when do you paint radiators?

Somebody does evidently http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d.html/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/182-4121958-4619834?a=B003CRM9CU

[KrazyKarl02]

Feel free to heckle all you want... Me and my quasi-new radiator will have the last laugh!! :flipoff2:

If you like to laugh when you see a 78/79 bronco overheat, then yes, you will have the last laugh.

[Hot Pocket]

Drove it around today for a good hour or so. First time getting to drive it in almost 3 months... It was fun!

[Seth]

could be a good or bad deal, all depends on the rad you got. how many cores and is it brass?

[TdmayfieldIV]

If you like to laugh when you see a 78/79 bronco overheat, then yes, you will have the last laugh.

He would have laughed alot at tire trax then.............

[Hot Pocket]

could be a good or bad deal, all depends on the rad you got. how many cores and is it brass?

4 core brass, the guy said it was cooling a cammed 460

[bcolman]

4 core brass, the guy said it was cooling a cammed 460

was it an RV cam?:flipoff2:

[Hot Pocket]

The front will be going up 4"

I don't have any parts to lift the rear. How can I lift it as cheaply as possible, but still have a truck that is reliable to drive on the street? Options?

[Sharpe]

Shackle flip.

[agjohn02]

The front will be going up 4"

I don't have any parts to lift the rear. How can I lift it as cheaply as possible, but still have a truck that is reliable to drive on the street? Options?

4" zero rate springs

[stx4wheeler]

A shackle hanger flip will give him around 5-6" depending on where he remounts the brackets.

An add a leaf in the rear will make it sit level with 4" coils in the front. At least that's what matched on my 79 bronco.

If it doesn't you can simply invert the current rear shackle hanger and gain another 1" 5/8 or 1 7/8". I can't remember which one of the two it is.

You could also just buy a rear lift block.

[TdmayfieldIV]

add a leaf will make the springs stiff as hell though. The sky manufacturing shackle flip kit gives a 4 1/2" lift. With your saggy old springs that should make it about right.

[85cj7]

sense you are all about cheap and lets face it, you are hotpocket so we have come to expect a certain quality of work, I would suggest blocks.

[Eckert]

Stacked blocks...

[Shaggy]

i have the lift springs you need in my garage... and if you want to go the bad way and use blocks... well i have a set of those too

[bcolman]

for ease of install i would go with wither lift springs or blocks, but with the shackle flip you should get the best flex

[Eckert]

honestly, get rid of the stock 3" blocks and do a shackle flip.

[colman]

i would suggest lift springs so you can replace the 40 yr old stock ones. even if they are a little stiffer. i bet tate will give you a decent deal. also your going to need new u-bolts (and new springs will have new bushings)

[Hot Pocket]

Going with colman on this one.

I've done some searching on FSB and talked to some 79 owners. I'm planning on going with Tate's procomp springs for the rear. JBG has some ubolt retainer plates and ubolts for less than $100.

I'd like to save up the coin for some Bilstein 5100s. I don't know which model number to use for my application though, since every website I go to only lists shocks for 80-96 broncos. Help me out here someone.

For the front, I'm planning on using the coil springs, radius arm drop brackets and bushings, and drop pitman arm I bought from Clarke... Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but all I need is the track bar drop bracket (JBG has one for $30,) the retainer plates and ubolts, the shocks, maybe some brake line extensions to complete the lift.

I'm ordering these parts next tuesday, my goal is to have it lifted by the end of the month.

[Shaggy]

your gay if you spend that kind of money on shocks and then act all broke to me when you are buying springs.... that is all

[Hot Pocket]

your gay if you spend that kind of money on shocks and then act all broke to me when you are buying springs.... that is all

Actually I'm buying them used from a guy on FSB who is going from a 4 to 6 inch lift and is considering switching to coils in the rear. He's only had them for about a year so they'll be costing me less than a set of new shocks. So far everything I've bought for this suspension is used because yes, I am broke and I'd like to get it all finished before the end of the month without it being a complete and total hoopty wagon.

That being said, if you still want to sell me the springs, I'd really appreciate it.

[Shaggy]

they are headed to alto... if you dont go hopefully someone nice can get them to CS for you

[breckboarder55]

they are headed to alto... if you dont go hopefully someone nice can get them to CS for you

He is in Houston these days.

[Shaggy]

Well they will make it to him somehow abyway

[Hot Pocket]

Can someone pick them up for me please? I am sending payment to you tomorrow Tate. Thanks.

[breckboarder55]

I've been meeting to make it down to Houston to visit some friends, if they make it to someone in CS I can take them down sometime... As long as your not in a hurry.

[bcolman]

i may be able to get them to houston in the next few weeks, ill make sure they end up in my truck for you

[colman]

i just dropped the bronc off at corey's so get the springs to the back of his truck on friday....

[Hot Pocket]

i just dropped the bronc off at corey's so get the springs to the back of his truck on friday....

Did you remember to disconnect the battery via the little red plastic key?

(Please say yes :flipoff2:)

Oh, and thank you to whoever is picking up the springs.

[colman]

i thought you fixed the problem with short. i thought it was more of safety feature so it didn't get stolen. i have a battery charger out there if it is dead. it looks wierd as hell on 2 rollers. please bring the other two when you come out to work on it.

[Hot Pocket]

i thought you fixed the problem with short. i thought it was more of safety feature so it didn't get stolen. i have a battery charger out there if it is dead. it looks wierd as hell on 2 rollers. please bring the other two when you come out to work on it.

yeah that battery is toast. No, I never fixed the short, but I'm planning on just completely redoing the electrical system from alternator to tail lights.

As for the tires, I'll bring 'em.

[colman]

it will charge back up

[Shaggy]

yeah that battery is toast. No, I never fixed the short, but I'm planning on just completely redoing the electrical system from alternator to tail lights.

As for the tires, I'll bring 'em.

i have the complete setup you need... let me know when you want it

[bcolman]

the springs made it on corys truck

[Hot Pocket]

Truck has officially gone under the knife :gigem:

[Shaggy]

Pay up sucka! You send my money yet?

[Hot Pocket]

Pay up sucka! You send my money yet?

went out in the mail today

[Hot Pocket]

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs834.snc4/69492_10150101360084622_816379621_7512362_3143531_ n.jpg

Lifted

[JB]

Sweet. I dig

[sam_hodnett]

i like it, and i will have 3 medium pepperonis please :flipoff2:

[stx4wheeler]

Cool, did you replace the radius arm bushings with the properly degreed ones?

[Hot Pocket]

Cool, did you replace the radius arm bushings with the properly degreed ones?

I have not, I'm still waiting on the rest of the parts to come in from JBG, so the lift isnt finished yet. That picture was taken just to get an idea of how it should look. Should I go with 4 or 7 degree bushings?

Parts on order:
Drop pitman arm
Drop Track Bar bracket
Track Bar Bushings

My shocks came in yesterday, going with the Rancho 5000 series

[Shaggy]

I have a pitman arm over at Will's house if you have not ordered it yet

[colman]

hey tate, since your bronco is now melted down somewhere into spoons or something shouldn't you take it off your signiture vehicle list

[Hot Pocket]

The rest of the parts came in today.

Let's talk exhaust. For the moment, it needs something on there, so short term I'm thinking 2.25" tubing into some cheapo oreilly mufflers, staying true duals

After I get the transmission and transfer case rebuilt, I'd like to do the exhaust right and go with some headers, then 2.25" pipe into an X-pipe, with some glasspacks.

I've heard people say that glasspacks = no backpressure, and that's not bueno for a truck that needs to make lots of low end torque, but can I compensate for the lack of backpressure by staying with 2.25" pipes and an x-pipe?

Thoughts? Oh, and I like it loud! :gigem:

[breckboarder55]

Than strait pipe that bitch, or get cheap glasspacks and get all of the fiberglass out, or just a strait through muffler.

IMO loud trail rigs are annoying.

[Shaggy]

I have the 3" flowmasters from the bronco. And I still have the bronco but cut the body up so technically still have it

[BroncoJo]

The rest of the parts came in today.

Let's talk exhaust. For the moment, it needs something on there, so short term I'm thinking 2.25" tubing into some cheapo oreilly mufflers, staying true duals

After I get the transmission and transfer case rebuilt, I'd like to do the exhaust right and go with some headers, then 2.25" pipe into an X-pipe, with some glasspacks.

I've heard people say that glasspacks = no backpressure, and that's not bueno for a truck that needs to make lots of low end torque, but can I compensate for the lack of backpressure by staying with 2.25" pipes and an x-pipe?

Thoughts? Oh, and I like it loud! :gigem:


More important than a x pipe or certain size pipe is making sure the exhaust is routed in a protective manner.

[stx4wheeler]

I have not, I'm still waiting on the rest of the parts to come in from JBG, so the lift isnt finished yet. That picture was taken just to get an idea of how it should look. Should I go with 4 or 7 degree bushings?

Parts on order:
Drop pitman arm
Drop Track Bar bracket
Track Bar Bushings

My shocks came in yesterday, going with the Rancho 5000 series


The recomended degree for a 4 inch lift is 4degrees, but as a whole the ford radius arm trucks like more caster so I would go with 7 degree bushings( will help the axle return to center faster). If you want it to drive really nice get a set of radius arm drop downs for the lift. They are not ideal off road, but make it drive good on road. There is a big difference in road manners between the two. If you get drop downs you won't have to get degreed bushings.

There are some other tricks to get it to drive better call me and i will give you some hints.

Now for a psa, I think you need to decide what you want the truck to be whether it is a truck like tommy's that you beat on, or a truck that could be daily driven like my blue truck. I'm cool with whatever you wanna do, but it is hard to go from beater to cruiser.

Looks good do far.

[Hot Pocket]

The recomended degree for a 4 inch lift is 4degrees, but as a whole the ford radius arm trucks like more caster so I would go with 7 degree bushings( will help the axle return to center faster). If you want it to drive really nice get a set of radius arm drop downs for the lift. They are not ideal off road, but make it drive good on road. There is a big difference in road manners between the two. If you get drop downs you won't have to get degreed bushings.

There are some other tricks to get it to drive better call me and i will give you some hints.

Now for a psa, I think you need to decide what you want the truck to be whether it is a truck like tommy's that you beat on, or a truck that could be daily driven like my blue truck. I'm cool with whatever you wanna do, but it is hard to go from beater to cruiser.

Looks good do far.

First priority is that it needs to be something that can be daily driven, but I'd like to build it so that it can do some very light wheeling. I was looking at radius arm drop down brackets, and the cheapest I can find them for is over $200, so I'll probably wind up ordering the correction bushings.

[tommy53002]

First priority is that it needs to be something that can be daily driven, but I'd like to build it so that it can do some very light wheeling. I was looking at radius arm drop down brackets, and the cheapest I can find them for is over $200, so I'll probably wind up ordering the correction bushings.

I thought you drive a jetta? Why do you need this to be a DD?

[Hot Pocket]

I do have a Jetta, but I would like for this to be able to drive out to a trail and then drive home since I have nothing to tow it with.

Not to mention, I really do just enjoy taking this thing out for joyrides every other day.

[Shaggy]

you wont have fun on the trail if you are worried about making it home... someone will almost always have a spot on a trailer

[Hot Pocket]

Regardless, I want this thing to be in good enough shape to handle a drive to college station and beyond without having any problems.

[tommy53002]

Yeah, I would skip the drop brackets. It will still be streetable without them but I think they would be a killer to ground clearance offroad.

[sam_hodnett]

glasspacks sound like ****, go flowmasters or something of the like IMO

[KrazyKarl02]

Yeah, I would skip the drop brackets. It will still be streetable without them but I think they would be a killer to ground clearance offroad.

Ever driven a truck without drop brackets? I did it for 3 years, it was like the steering wheel was punching me on the highway.

If you are worried about rubbing a 4" drop radius arm, you should be worried about rubbing your body/doors. And if you are worried about that, it should not be a daily driver.

[BroncoJo]

I threw away some drop brackets last year. I would not recommend drop brackets for street or off-road. Go with the 7 degree bushings and be done with it until you can extend the radius arms. I had the drop brackets on my bronco and not only did they hang up on everything they are also very prone to ripping the **** off the frame.


The highway drive sucked equally with or without drop brackets.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Being a 'street/cruiser' rig, if you want to go with the glass packs, knock yourself out. A few drives from H-town to aggieland may have you rethinking this, but you are still young enough that it may not. :D

(Going to have to get the glasspack replaced on the beast replaced in short order once the block gets put back in. May have a flange installed so that I can swap it out for Alto trips though. :laughing: )

[Hot Pocket]

glasspacks sound like ****, go flowmasters or something of the like IMO
everybody has their own taste when it comes to mufflers, and personally I can't stand da flows


I threw away some drop brackets last year. I would not recommend drop brackets for street or off-road. Go with the 7 degree bushings and be done with it until you can extend the radius arms. I had the drop brackets on my bronco and not only did they hang up on everything they are also very prone to ripping the **** off the frame.


The highway drive sucked equally with or without drop brackets.
Thanks, Since you and frick have both told me to go with 7 degree bushings, I'm going to go ahead and order them now. Thanks for the advice.



Being a 'street/cruiser' rig, if you want to go with the glass packs, knock yourself out. A few drives from H-town to aggieland may have you rethinking this, but you are still young enough that it may not. :D

(Going to have to get the glasspack replaced on the beast replaced in short order once the block gets put back in. May have a flange installed so that I can swap it out for Alto trips though. :laughing: )

The glasspacks will just be a temporary setup. I need to get some kind of exhaust on it so that I can pass inspection (current setup is true dual redneck straightpipes.) Glasspacks will probably be on here for a year at most. As far as long term exhaust, I'd like to go x-pipes and put in some awesome mufflers, but that's further down the line. I'd like to get other things taken care of first.

[bcolman]

as for mufflers just to get it legal just find used ones floating around the club, i am sure there are some, talk to my brother or cory and see what they have

[colman]

i have one but it is in round top. i just sold the ones i had in montgomery.

[breckboarder55]

Real rigs drive home :flipoff2:

[BroncoJo]

Real rigs drive home :flipoff2:

Says the recently blown up, transmission going out jeep :confused:



:flipoff2::flipoff2:

[Hot Pocket]

DONE
- Rancho 5000's and springs ubolts etc
- New Voltage Regulator = No more short on electrical system
- New Radiator, drove it for about 2 hours or so at idle, and never went over 175
- New Gauges
- Temporary Exhaust installed
- New fuel filter
- Removed Aftermarket cruise control, other junk under hood
- SEAFOAM!!

GOALS - short term
- Finish front bumper tubing & install recovery points/lights
- Lengthen Rear Driveshaft 2-3 inches
- Rear bumper needs to be fabbed up & install recovery points
- Need to install drop pitman arm, drop track bar bracket, new track bar bushings, radius arm bushings (finish lift)
- Install front and rear pinion seals
- Install New wheel bearings
- Install New hubs
- Install CB/PA
- New Fuel Gauge
- New Battery hold-down
- Replace heater hoses
- Wire brake lights & turn signals (4 new sockets and bulbs)
- Seat covers? Maybe replacement seats, haven't decided yet
- Alignment

GOALS - long term
- T18, 205 rebuild
- New Door hinges, latch pins, handles
- On Board Air
- Cardone power steering pump
- New Tie Rod
- Rear Locker (who makes good lockers for the 9 inch?)
- 130 Amp 3g alternator
- Roll Bar, Cage?
- Homemade soft top
- Stereo System
- HID headlights
- Equus Speedo & Tach, custom gauge panel
- Redo Interior

I need to meet with someone at Dexter. I'd like to get a cage or at least a roll bar on this thing, and I'd also like to hire someone there to build me some custom bumpers.

[stx4wheeler]

you shouldn't need to extend the d-shafts with a 4" lift I believe.

[Shaggy]

I have a lot of parts from my bronco that you might want to "restore" yours. I am not gonna post pics and such right now. You need to come to SA and check it all out

[KrazyKarl02]

How do you plan on changing the pinion seal on the 9"

[DRAGOONRANCH]

How do you plan on changing the pinion seal on the 9"

JB Weld has always worked well for me. Last time you worked on my 9" you used ky though, right????

[85cj7]

How do you plan on changing the pinion seal on the 9"

The only way Hot Picket knows how, , , blindly and without reason!!??:gigem:

[Hot Pocket]

I have unofficially dubbed the truck
"The Microwave"

[Hot Pocket]

Got the following things done

- Install New wheel bearings
- Install New hubs
- Replace heater hoses

Also, here are some pictures of the microwave as it is now.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs395.ash2/67379_10150101535419622_816379621_7513898_5137854_ n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs814.snc4/69431_10150105673094622_816379621_7580993_6630848_ n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs442.ash2/71541_10150105673129622_816379621_7580994_7658482_ n.jpg

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs827.snc4/68729_10150105673144622_816379621_7580995_2051329_ n.jpg

[Hot Pocket]

The truck is not getting fuel.

When I pull the throttle cable on the carb, it tries to squirt fuel in, but it just won't do it.

There is a small amount of fuel in the fuel filter right next to the carb, but not as much as there normally is.

What has gone wrong here? Where should I start looking? I would guess fuel pump, but I'm not sure.

[Shaggy]

is there fuel in the tank?

[Hot Pocket]

haha, yes there is fuel in the tank

[Sharpe]

Mechanical fuel pumps are like $20 so thats a good place to start.

[Hot Pocket]

Is there any way I can diagnose the problem instead of just throwing money at new parts?

Throwing new parts at it until it works again is all fine and dandy, and it is usually the Hot Pocket way of doing things, but I'm trying to learn from my mistakes here :flipoff2:

[mudtoy67]

Pull the fuel line at the carb, point it at a bucket. Have someone crank engine to see if it's pumping fuel out. If no fuel pull line going to the inlet side of the pump, make sure you get fuel out of there. If no fuel keep working your way back till you find it. If there is fuel replace the pump.

[Sharpe]

You can disconnect the fuel line before the filter and blow compressed air through it to free any obstuctions but that kinda of **** usually gets caught in the filter. Its twenty ****ing dollars. I know you have "other priorities" like bongs that cost more than your bronco but replacing the pump is your best bet at this point.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

The only thing I would add to BDR's is to check both sides of the clear filter to see if it will actually let any through.

If you have a hard time seeing anything under the hood, a zippo makes for a real good flashlight when checking fuel lines. Not near as explosive as the butane lighters are...

[Hot Pocket]

Pull the fuel line at the carb, point it at a bucket. Have someone crank engine to see if it's pumping fuel out. If no fuel pull line going to the inlet side of the pump, make sure you get fuel out of there. If no fuel keep working your way back till you find it. If there is fuel replace the pump.

Thanks, I'll give it a shot. Where is the fuel pump on my truck? I seem to have misplaced my haynes manual.


You can disconnect the fuel line before the filter and blow compressed air through it to free any obstuctions but that kinda of **** usually gets caught in the filter. Its twenty ****ing dollars. I know you have "other priorities" like bongs that cost more than your bronco but replacing the pump is your best bet at this point.
I have no problem spending 20 bucks on a fuel pump. I'm just concerned that I spend the $20 and that doesn't fix the problem.


The only thing I would add to BDR's is to check both sides of the clear filter to see if it will actually let any through.

If you have a hard time seeing anything under the hood, a zippo makes for a real good flashlight when checking fuel lines. Not near as explosive as the butane lighters are...

The fuel filter next to the carb is maybe a month old, but I'll start going through the fuel lines, and post up what I find

Thanks

[TdmayfieldIV]

you can have my mech fuel pump if you buy me a block off plate ($6 on summit). I bought it last dec. I have an electric one now for fool injection.

Your pump is located on the drivers side of the block. Just follow the metal fuel line down to the side of the block.

Oh, and mine had 2 fuel filters, one was inside the frame rail right under the door. Check that one. On the way back from k2 last year my truck kept shutting off and we couldn't figure out why. We took off the filter, which was pretty new I might add and it was clogged. We waited till we bought a new coil to figure that out though.......

[Hot Pocket]

you can have my mech fuel pump if you buy me a block off plate ($6 on summit). I bought it last dec. I have an electric one now for fool injection.

Your pump is located on the drivers side of the block. Just follow the metal fuel line down to the side of the block.

It's the thing right next to the oil filter correct??

[TdmayfieldIV]

It's the thing right next to the oil filter correct??

yeah

[Hot Pocket]

Replaced the fuel pump today. Carb is still not supplying fuel. I replaced the fuel filter as well. Found out that the P.O. decided to eliminate the fuel filter located under the driver side door, so the truck only has the filter right before the carb.


Either way, truck won't start. Looking at carburetor issues now, Can anyone tell me where to go from here?

[TdmayfieldIV]

tbi

ready, go!

[BroncoJo]

tbi

ready, go!

Because that was so easy for you to do? :flipoff2:

[TdmayfieldIV]

Because that was so easy for you to do? :flipoff2:

Not easy but really worth it

[bcolman]

i know little to nothing about carbs, but your float could be stuck and thus not supplying fuel to the engine

[Shaggy]

And it doesn't matter if your filter is new. Bad fuel can clog a filter pretty fast especially if all you have is the one.

[KrazyKarl02]

Do you have starter fluid? If you spray some down the intake and try to crank, does it begin to start or nothing? If it does not try to start you have a spark issue.

[Hot Pocket]

And it doesn't matter if your filter is new. Bad fuel can clog a filter pretty fast especially if all you have is the one.
The fuel is maybe a couple months old. I don't think it's bad at all.


Do you have starter fluid? If you spray some down the intake and try to crank, does it begin to start or nothing? If it does not try to start you have a spark issue.

I don't, but I know that I do have spark. When I work the throttle lever, the carb does not supply any fuel. This is a fuel/ carb issue.

[KrazyKarl02]

Un-do the fuel line at the carb, crank the engine and see if you get fuel out. You might have vapor locked it somehow.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

How much fuel is in the tank right now? Put the main filter back in if at all possible. There was probably a reason the PO took it off, and that reason was more than likely NOT a good one.

[Hot Pocket]

It's got about 6 gallons in the tank. I'll go get another fuel filter for it tomorrow after I get everything with school and moving done today.

I undid the fuel line at the carb and cranked it, and nothing came out.

Is it possible I installed the fuel pump incorrectly? :confused:

[robertf03]

see if the pump is creating vacuum on the gas tank side of it. unhook it and put your hand over it or something while starting the engine.

[KrazyKarl02]

On these Broncos can you disconnect the fuel line at the tank and then use like a boat primer bulb to prime the line to the carb?

[TdmayfieldIV]

Ok, the arm on the fuel pump rides on a lobe connected to the timing gear. Make sure when you put the pump in that the arm is on the lobe, don't just stick it in there. When you put the arm on the timing gear the gasket surface where the bots go in should not fit right. You have to push it in there so the arm on the pump depresses and then bolt it on.

Was there fuel in the line when you took the old pump off?

[Hot Pocket]

Ok, the arm on the fuel pump rides on a lobe connected to the timing gear. Make sure when you put the pump in that the arm is on the lobe, don't just stick it in there. When you put the arm on the timing gear the gasket surface where the bots go in should not fit right. You have to push it in there so the arm on the pump depresses and then bolt it on.

Was there fuel in the line when you took the old pump off?

Gotcha.

I'll probably wind up taking it apart and doing it over again... Seemed to fit a little too easily when I did it. Gonna get this done tomorrow, had a long day today

[Hot Pocket]

bronco runs

yay

[Hot Pocket]

The bronco has a BW T18 underneath it. The synchros are shot all to ****, and it's so trashed it refuses to even engage fourth gear anymore. Mechanically, the truck is solid other than this transmission, so it's time it gets pulled.

My options at this point are to replace it with a rebuilt transmission, roughly $600, replace it with a used tranny, $200-400, or pay to have it rebuilt. I'm not sure what the cost is on a decent rebuild, and I'm not about to try and do it myself since that would probably end in some cataclysmic hot-pocket failure.

I've been looking for some used transmissions online, but I don't feel like paying a few bennys to have it shipped from somewhere thousands of miles away. What are some good tranny shops in town that would have some used transmissions sitting around? What are some places I could look at to get an estimate on a rebuild? And finally, what should I be looking for in a replacement T18?

Now I know the T18 came in some FS Jeeps, but from what I understand the input shaft is a shorter length than the Ford version. Not looking to do a parts swap, just looking to find the right transmission. How can I identify the difference between the two? Also, the bellhousing of the transmission needs to match up to a 400. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the 400 BH the same as the 460 bellhousing?
:gigem:

[85cj7]

I don't feel like writing a long response now. BUT you should seriously look into rebuilding it on your own. Old manual trans like that are super retarded stupid easy. I did so on my np-435 and swapped in a new mainshaft in the process and I think it took me a few hours. A complete rebuild kit for that should be very affordable. I ordered all my parts through these guys and some very hard to find plastic shift fork retainers. They were awesome to work with and do a great service. At least give them a call and see what they want for a rebuilt kit with synchros. http://www.standardtransmission.com/

[Shaggy]

It is an auto but I have a c6 and a b&m floor shifter burning a hole in my garage floor. Even a stout crossmember for a 205 if it puts it in a different spot.

[KrazyKarl02]

Yo tengo un NP435 con bell housing

I have a NP435 with bell housing in Houston, $200, came out of a runningish 1982 Ford Bronco!

[stx4wheeler]

Wrong bellhousing Karl.

[mudtoy67]

Wrong bellhousing Karl.

Right bellhousing, wrong engine.;)

[KrazyKarl02]

Right bellhousing, wrong engine.;)

I would almost bet that Hot Pocket could use his current bell housing and bolt it to this transmission.

[mudtoy67]

I would almost bet that Hot Pocket could use his current bell housing and bolt it to this transmission.

I'm saying the engine should be replaced as well.:)

[KrazyKarl02]

I'm saying the engine should be replaced as well.:)

I'm just trying to sell a transmission.

[Seth]

should not be an expensie proposition which ever way you go. i would rebuild the current one or put in a used one.

[Hot Pocket]

I don't want to swap to an auto or to a 435. I'd like to keep it T18 for simplicity purposes. I've heard a lot of people say these things are super easy to rebuild, but I've never done something like this before, and it's definitely not something I want to have to do myself.

[Sharpe]

Sack up and do it you puss.

[Sparling]

Bring it to a work day at travis's, I'll help you rebuild it.

[Hot Pocket]

From what I understand they also sold the T18 in later model broncos (80s.) It was attached to either a 300, 302, or 351w. The bellhousing on all of those motors do not match the 400 I have, but is it possible to swap bellhousings? How much of a pita are we talking?

[KrazyKarl02]

From what I understand they also sold the T18 in later model broncos (80s.) It was attached to either a 300, 302, or 351w. The bellhousing on all of those motors do not match the 400 I have, but is it possible to swap bellhousings? How much of a pita are we talking?

My NP435 bell housing can be swapped with 4 bolts....

[TdmayfieldIV]

buy a c6

[Hot Pocket]

My NP435 bell housing can be swapped with 4 bolts....

True, but the transmission is a couple inches shorter and I don't want to deal with switching up the driveshafts. It would be easier to just find a T18 or rebuild what I already have.

[KrazyKarl02]

Are you sure about that?

[Fredo]

a 435 is one inch shorter than a T18. If your driveshafts can't handle that, they don't have enough slip in them anyway.

[Hot Pocket]

I'm already pushin it with the stock driveshafts after the lift, so yes I'm sure

[sasquatch]

you are going to spend the same amount on a junk transmisson as a rebuild kit for yours. rebuild it and you know its not a piece of ****. are you positive you have a t18?

[Hot Pocket]

you are going to spend the same amount on a junk transmisson as a rebuild kit for yours. rebuild it and you know its not a piece of ****. are you positive you have a t18?

positive in three ways

Trans code F means T18
All cast iron case is T18, 435 had aluminum top cover
length is equal to that of a T18

[Sparling]

Bring it to travis's house one weekend. Do it while the dexter press is still there.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/t18_t19_parts.htm

[85cj7]

Bring it to travis's house one weekend. Do it while the dexter press is still there.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/t18_t19_parts.htm

Although I will talk good about Novak to anyone who will listen and I think they are a badass company who does great work, just order the rebuild kit through standard transmission in Fort Worth (link in above post). They will be much quicker on shipping, prob cheaper, and quality parts. Hell if you get a nice guy on the phone and chat with him for a while I bet they will give you some sort of deal. I got some parts for the np-435 shipped for free through them.

[Hot Pocket]

My 9" Pinion yoke is the culprit for the repeated driveshaft failure.

Missing an ear on the yoke. Going to replace the yoke, seal, maybe bearings too who knows

[85cj7]

Be careful when tightening the yoke back down. Stock 9" use a crush sleeve to set pinion bearing preload. You can upgrade the crush sleeve to solid shims though. I would just change the seal/yoke and be done with it. If you change the bearings then the pre-load has to be re-adjusted. If you do go this route then go ahead and get rid of the crush sleeve for the solid shim.

[Hot Pocket]

Be careful when tightening the yoke back down. Stock 9" use a crush sleeve to set pinion bearing preload. You can upgrade the crush sleeve to solid shims though. I would just change the seal/yoke and be done with it. If you change the bearings then the pre-load has to be re-adjusted. If you do go this route then go ahead and get rid of the crush sleeve for the solid shim.

Fair enough. How likely is it that anything behind the yoke and seal need attention? I already bought the pinion seal at oreillys, but I'm going to order this: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-22282-ford-9-inch-1330-flange-3-7-8-.html

to replace the 9" yoke. What size is the pinion nut? 1 1/8?

Also, FWIW.. I plan on draining and changing the diff fluid in the 9 inch. I'm not 100% clear on the procedure for this. From what I've learned, I have to pull the axle shafts and the carrier. Is this true?

[85cj7]

It is not likely that anything is fooked unless of course you have reason to suspect something. Any strange vibs? noises, like growling/whining? If not then don't mess with it.

the pinion nut is 1 1/16", I would get a new one while your at it.

Stock 9" don't have a drain plug so you have two ways of doing it as far as I can figure.

Option 1: remove one side brakes and pull out the axle shaft. Then jack up the vehicle so the end with the axle shaft removed is now significantly lower. This will drain the majority of the fluid out although a bit will be caught in the lower diff hump. Reinstall axle shaft and brake on one side and re-fill.

Option 2: Remove both side brakes and pull both shafts. Then drop the d-shaft and pull the third member. Then pump the fluid out of sop it up with sponge/rag/whatever. Then reinstall third member, d-shaft, axle shafts, brakes and re-fill.

I would go with option 1: unless of course you have extra work to do anyway. Like changing brake pads, fixing a leaking third member gasket, or installing that solid shim for the pinion preload I was talking about. So to answer your question, No, it is not true you HAVE to pull the shafts and the third.

[StevenAg03]

Option 1: remove one side brakes and pull out the axle shaft. Then jack up the vehicle so the end with the axle shaft removed is now significantly lower. This will drain the majority of the fluid out although a bit will be caught in the lower diff hump. Reinstall axle shaft and brake on one side and re-fill.


this sounds like a terrible idea

[85cj7]

this sounds like a terrible idea

Why?
Perfectly safe.
1-jack up vehicle
2-remove rear wheels
3-place frame on jackstands
4-move jack to one side below spring
5-compress spring on one side until right before vehicle lifts off jack stands
6-drain fluid out lower side axle tube

DONE!

Tell me again.

[mudtoy67]

Fair enough. How likely is it that anything behind the yoke and seal need attention? I already bought the pinion seal at oreillys, but I'm going to order this: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-22282-ford-9-inch-1330-flange-3-7-8-.html

to replace the 9" yoke. What size is the pinion nut? 1 1/8?

Also, FWIW.. I plan on draining and changing the diff fluid in the 9 inch. I'm not 100% clear on the procedure for this. From what I've learned, I have to pull the axle shafts and the carrier. Is this true?

Have you measured the yoke you already have? I'd be willing to bet it's already got a 1330 yoke, if not a 1330s like that one you linked.



Tell me again.

Because it's dumb.

1- You're halfway to pulling the chunk anyway
2- You're not going to get even half the oil out
3- It'll be easier to change the pinion seal/yoke on the bench
4- Because you suggested it:flipoff2:

[85cj7]

Thanks BDR:flipoff2:

If a pinion yoke and seal can't be changed under a truck then I don't know what we're doing anymore. That is stupid easy.

[Shaggy]

I even think that is dumb. It takes no time at all to pull a 3rd

[mudtoy67]

Thanks BDR:flipoff2:

If a pinion yoke and seal can't be changed under a truck then I don't know what we're doing anymore. That is stupid easy.

Stupid Easy (Stoo-pid E-z) -
def. - Stuff Seacrest can do.


:flipoff2:

[stx4wheeler]

If you just swap out yokes, and don't replace the crush sleeve, you will need to crush the sleeve slightly more(ie tighten it slighlty more). It takes alot of force to do this so your gonna want the weight of the truck on the tires sitting on the ground. Don't tighen it too much of you are gonna get the bearings to tight and old bearings don't like this, or you run the risk of fawking up the crush sleeve.

Be carefull.....

[Hot Pocket]

I'm going to pull the third member anyway to seal up the leaking gasket. The rear driveshaft is already out. And yes, I ordered both the yoke and the yoke nut.

What's a crush sleeve?

[TdmayfieldIV]

Mine has a drain plug.

[bcolman]

Mine has a drain plug.

you want a cookie?:flipoff2:

[85cj7]

I'm going to pull the third member anyway to seal up the leaking gasket. The rear driveshaft is already out. And yes, I ordered both the yoke and the yoke nut.

What's a crush sleeve?

You need to do some reading before you tackle this.


A crush sleeve is a metal disk that is placed on the pinion after the bearings which is literally crushed when you tighten the pinion yoke nut. It sets preload on the pinion bearings.
A crush sleeve is very hard to start crushing but once it starts requires less force which ca easily lead to over crushing and loosing proper preload on the bearings. Some people start crushing the sleeves in a press and then proceed to installing it is the axle.
Your dilemma is that your crush sleeve has already been crushed and you need to exactly match how tight the pinion nut is before and after you replace the nut. You need to measure the lbs/inch drag on the nut to properly do this.

Read up and Good luck.

[Sharpe]

You could get a stack of shims and match the thickness of your old crush sleeve too. This seems like the least likely way to **** it up on reassembly, though Hotpocket has dazzled me before.

[Hot Pocket]

Got a soft top off of FSB for 200 shipped

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m45/Osceola16/inside.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m45/Osceola16/hole.jpg
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m45/Osceola16/outside.jpg

[TdmayfieldIV]

Nice

[Hot Pocket]

Is there anything I can use to clean up and recondition this top? It has a small hole in it (see pictures) that I can fix no problem, but as far as removing the rust and grime what are my options?

[Hot Pocket]

Where the balls is the fill plug on the 9 inch?

[TdmayfieldIV]

drivers side of the third member. Uses a 3/8ths ratchet to take out.

[Hot Pocket]

No pics yet, but I got the tailgate on and repainted the cover from the old one and put it on the new one.

The body is lookin better than ever, and she is back to running strong.

Plans for tomorrow to get the truck ready for soggy this weekend:

- Replace 205 output seal
- Replace 9" pinion seal
- Fill 9"
- Fill 205 and T18
- Lube up my shafts
- Tear **** up