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TdmayfieldIV
05-02-2011, 11:45 PM
Why are you lubing your shafts?

sam_hodnett
05-02-2011, 11:56 PM
Why are you lubing your shafts?

too easy

Hot Pocket
05-03-2011, 07:06 PM
Why are you lubing your shafts?

You will learn all about the magical wonders of lubing your shafts one day. :flipoff3:

Hot Pocket
05-13-2011, 04:40 PM
Found some soggy bottom carnage.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/224391_10150296730864622_816379621_9620460_560237_ n.jpg

I'm hoping I'll be alright with just a new u-joint.

Will it be ok driving in 2wd?

bcolman
05-13-2011, 05:01 PM
as long as you make sure the tcase is in 2wd and unlock both hubs it should not spin so yes you will be ok

85cj7
05-13-2011, 06:20 PM
Surprised you didn't notice that when it immediately broke. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that it was driven on a bit after it was broken and so the ears on the axle shafts will be stretched out. I could be wrong but make dead sure that they are okay before just swapping in a u-joint and being done with it.

Hot Pocket
05-14-2011, 12:45 AM
What can I get the axle shafts out of if I were to go junkyarding?

Hot Pocket
05-14-2011, 12:46 AM
Surprised you didn't notice that when it immediately broke. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that it was driven on a bit after it was broken and so the ears on the axle shafts will be stretched out. I could be wrong but make dead sure that they are okay before just swapping in a u-joint and being done with it.

It makes a lot of clinks and clanks, come to think of it, I do remember it happening, but it was right when we were driving back, and I switched to 2wd for the ride home.

Sparling
05-14-2011, 01:44 AM
What can I get the axle shafts out of if I were to go junkyarding?

What side is it? Maybe that side from tommys is good and you could buy it from him.

TdmayfieldIV
05-14-2011, 01:50 AM
I have a short side stock shaft

85cj7
05-14-2011, 02:02 AM
That's a pic of of the pass. side. Pretty sure broncos came with driver side drop. So, I would think he needs the long side.

Your welcome Hotpocket. Just match up the lengths.18581

Sharpe
05-14-2011, 09:49 AM
When I blew a u-joint in Clayton, I drove all the way back to the hotel with it like that. I had it in 4wd and the yokes survived well enough. That was on a 60 though. Tummy's shafts got proper ****ed when he broke a joint though. You should just buy his whole axle to swap in. Yours looks like **** anyway

TdmayfieldIV
05-14-2011, 10:23 AM
Yeah, it might look ok but they are probably twisted. It will be a bitch to get the joint in and it will pop the caps out. Do yourself a favor and get the inner and stub from jbg. I don't know how many axle shafts I have that are the wrong size.

bcolman
05-14-2011, 03:10 PM
if you tack the caps on then the caps wont fall out

Sparling
05-14-2011, 04:19 PM
if you tack the caps on then the caps wont fall out

wat

Hot Pocket
05-14-2011, 10:12 PM
Thanks Seacrest, you're my hero! :gigem:


When I blew a u-joint in Clayton, I drove all the way back to the hotel with it like that. I had it in 4wd and the yokes survived well enough. That was on a 60 though. Tummy's shafts got proper ****ed when he broke a joint though. You should just buy his whole axle to swap in. Yours looks like **** anyway

While mine may look like ass, It's gonna stay because I don't want to go through the trouble of getting a new one. It works well enough.


Yeah, it might look ok but they are probably twisted. It will be a bitch to get the joint in and it will pop the caps out. Do yourself a favor and get the inner and stub from jbg. I don't know how many axle shafts I have that are the wrong size.
Yeah, but I got seacrest's chart, so I know what I'll be looking for. Works a lot better than the "oh yeah that looks right" approach. :flipoff2:


if you tack the caps on then the caps wont fall out
don't have a welder......... or a desire to colman-rig this thing :flipoff2:

RCcola55
05-14-2011, 10:26 PM
tacking the caps in is a common practice. And Tommy since you got a 60 now, I want the axle shafts back.

TdmayfieldIV
05-15-2011, 12:31 AM
ok, i'll keep it for you Clarke,

Go ahead Hot Pocket learn it for yourself.

colman
05-15-2011, 01:01 PM
what is this colman rig thing you are trying to talk about in a negative way. i find it funny that you are trying to insinuate that that we rig things... at least we do our own work and know what we are talking about instead of screwing **** up and paying someone else to do fix it.... now can someone give me a hose to was this sand out before i start making pearls.

Hot Pocket
05-15-2011, 04:58 PM
damn, can I catch a break for drunk posting?

apparently not!

I thought the :flipoff2: made it ok :flipoff2:

colman
05-16-2011, 01:18 AM
i may have been drinking a bit earlier today and missed the flipoff...... now seriously if you wana wheel this thing you should buy tomys axle and combine the best parts of both of yalls and be dollars and miles ahead... i even think he has new ball joints. thats 200 right there plus 500 shafts and etc..... think about it

TdmayfieldIV
05-16-2011, 02:28 AM
Seth is picking it up tomorrow I think

Seth
05-16-2011, 10:01 PM
yes.

KrazyKarl02
05-16-2011, 10:42 PM
yes.

Hell Yeah!!!! White Truck!

Seth
05-17-2011, 08:58 PM
Damn - here i was giong to surprise you!

Hot Pocket
09-11-2011, 05:48 PM
I have removed the axle retainer nuts, and I flipped the brake drum around and tightened it to the axle but I can't pull it out. They are really in there. I even had my roommate try, and he is much stronger than I am haha. How do I get the damn rear axle shafts out?

TdmayfieldIV
09-11-2011, 06:31 PM
Put a chain on a stud, pit a lug nut on it, connect the other side to a tire and throw it.

RCcola55
09-11-2011, 07:03 PM
fire hydrant works better

JB
09-11-2011, 07:32 PM
Put a chain on a stud, pit a lug nut on it, connect the other side to a tire and throw it.

***

TdmayfieldIV
09-11-2011, 07:34 PM
poor man's slide hammer

Sharpe
09-11-2011, 10:04 PM
he is much stronger than I am haha.

So is a 12 year old girl so I would find an adult and have them give it a try.

Sharpe
09-11-2011, 10:04 PM
***

You laugh but he learned that at Dexter...

Hot Pocket
09-12-2011, 12:02 AM
I think I'll just go rent a slide hammer.

And my roommate is a pretty strong guy... Saw him lift a fridge by himself when we were moving in haha

sam_hodnett
09-12-2011, 12:45 AM
I think I'll just go rent a slide hammer.

And my roommate is a pretty strong guy... Saw him lift a fridge by himself when we were moving in haha

you realize these dont count right?
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSbrK-63v_MgMOP-51GXfngYShW8FmFDj7m9-0YpPOSYnJvGRWikxdQvvcB

RCcola55
09-12-2011, 06:34 AM
nice.

HP, a slide hammer may not be enough sometimes, as dumb as tummy may sound on this one he is actually right. Just take the tire and wheel and put a chain through it then atach the other end to the shaft with a lugnut and roll the bitch hard, away from the truck, works everytime.

stx4wheeler
09-12-2011, 12:05 PM
Get a chain long enough that you can roll it a good 5-10 ft.

What are you trying to fix?

If there is something majorly wrong internally I'd go buy another $100-150 9".

85cj7
09-12-2011, 02:51 PM
He doesn't know what is wrong with it right now. He thinks the gears are eaten. So he is trying to get the third out to take a look at it. He said that it won't go forward or reverse and when he tries to make it go it makes a gear eating sound.

Frick is right. Go get another entire 9" from a yard. Any will do as long as the gearing is right and it is the same spline count (I'm not sure if broncos were 28 or 31, I thought pass. cars were 28 and trucks 31 spline) and just swap out the third. That is, if the shaft bearings/brakes are still in good shape. They are $60 at pick-n-pulls all day long.

KrazyKarl02
09-12-2011, 03:55 PM
He doesn't know what is wrong with it right now. He thinks the gears are eaten. So he is trying to get the third out to take a look at it. He said that it won't go forward or reverse and when he tries to make it go it makes a gear eating sound.


The driveshaft is turning right (the t-case is working, guess it's a 205, so that would be a long shot)

BroncoJo
09-12-2011, 03:58 PM
I'm betting the third member broke around the tiny pinion bearing, which is allowing the pinion to disengage from the ring gear.

stx4wheeler
09-12-2011, 05:04 PM
Have you taken the driveshaft off and spun the axle forward and back a couple revolutions while it was on jackstands to make sure the rear end is in fact making the noise? Just trying to make sure you dont waste time chasing bigfoot.

Hot Pocket
09-12-2011, 09:20 PM
Lots of replies... Thanks for the help.

To clarify Blankenship, It wouldn't go forward, but I could still use reverse just fine. You are correct, it's a 31 spline. From what I've read, Ford put the 28spline axles in cars and early broncos. The 31 splines were found in 70's model trucks, Torinos, and a few HiPo Stangs.

Anyway,
Rented the slide hammer at Ho'reillys, and got the shafts out... Not pleased with what I found. Here are some pics.
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/311170_10150438382949622_816379621_10955381_140760 5026_n.jpg
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/312030_10150438383154622_816379621_10955383_174030 5703_n.jpg
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/302685_10150438383254622_816379621_10955385_135702 6856_n.jpg
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/313430_10150438383369622_816379621_10955387_125647 0237_n.jpg

It looks as though my driver's side shaft doesn't have a bearing on it. I looked through the axle housing, and it looks like something broke off in there very close to the third member. (see pics) The pic of the shaft with the bearing is my passenger side shaft which looks fine.

Any thoughts as to what may have happened, and why is there no bearing on my axle? I'm guessing the bearing grenaded and is what is stuck inside the axle housing. Going to do some homework for a while, then I'll probably go and pull the third.

JB
09-12-2011, 09:30 PM
So the axle bearing goes but no forward motion??

Hot Pocket
09-12-2011, 09:37 PM
It would go forward in granny gear, but occassionally it would catch itself and start doing the gear grind and it wouldnt go forward anymore. I didn't really screw with it too much.

TdmayfieldIV
09-12-2011, 09:41 PM
I have 2 sets of shafts and a 3rd member with 4:10's if you need them.

sasquatch
09-12-2011, 09:46 PM
the shaft bearing is fine. the race is in the end of the tube. what you see in the tube is probably a carrier bearing race. get a new 3rd. yours is probably ****ed more than its worth fixing.

and you probably wont find a cheap 9 at a local junkyard anymore.

Hot Pocket
09-12-2011, 09:56 PM
How can I make the carrier stronger when I go to replace it?

sasquatch
09-12-2011, 10:03 PM
it probably wasn't set up correctly. just get another 3rd. you should have 3.50s. aftermarket upgraydds aren't going to be as cheap as you like.

TdmayfieldIV
09-12-2011, 10:10 PM
I NEVER had any problems whatsoever with my 9" until I put a mini spool in it. I remember hopping on a rock for a couple of minutes trying to get somewhere when I first started wheeling. Looking back it should have broken but it never gave up.

There is a reason that drag racers and circle track drivers use these axles more than any other, they're strong out of the box. They're one of the best half ton axles ever made bar none.

The reason yours broke is probably water mixed with the gear oil. The gears rust and are weakened, along with all of the bearings.

30 years of neglect lead to your axle grenading, along with your jackassery:flipoff2:

If you want to drop the coin you can get a nodular third member but really, for your application, the stock one is good enough if you take care of it.

http://www.justrearends.com/ProductDisplay.aspx?ID=29241dd9-7357-4971-96f0-e76d6b25ecdf

You can have my whole rear axle and two sets of spare shafts for $80. All you have to do is put the spider gears back in and it's good to go.

BroncoJo
09-12-2011, 10:15 PM
pull the third and take a look.

stx4wheeler
09-12-2011, 10:34 PM
Yeah, just pull the third and see whats wrong, im sure its just 30 yrs off neglect showing its face.

Im serious complete truck 9"'s go for $100-200 all day long on Houston craigslist. Pull one of those slap it in and keep driving. There is no reason to upgrade a factory nine with 35's and an M block for a crusier/light off-road use. If you end up getting a new axle get one from a '76 and later.

If its just the shaft bearing replace it and go on down the road.

Hot Pocket
09-12-2011, 11:25 PM
I've got the shafts out, and I took off all 10 bolts, but this thing will not budge, even tried some pb lube and nothing. Suggestions for popping the 3rd off?

85cj7
09-12-2011, 11:31 PM
There should a section of the third that has a small cut away so that you can get a chisel or screw driver in between the two mating surfaces. If I remember right it is on the driver side of the third by the tube. Just lots of taping with a hammer and chiseling with multiple ones from different angles to force the third up and off the studs.

Hot Pocket
09-13-2011, 12:00 AM
Been trying to get this thing off for over an hour. I will pay someone to come and get this thing out. I am giving up.

edit: blankenship, couldn't find what you were talking about.

Sharpe
09-13-2011, 07:35 AM
Don't be a bitch. Man the **** up and hit it harder until it comes off.

BroncoJo
09-13-2011, 08:46 AM
it's already broken, get a bigger hammer

colman
09-13-2011, 08:59 AM
i like where this is going :)

sasquatch
09-14-2011, 08:31 PM
get your ass in the gym. after awhile you'll be able to get it out. it doesn't just pop out.

Hot Pocket
09-20-2011, 02:01 AM
Ok so I have the third out, and it looks like it just needs to be replaced. bits and pieces are broken off of it, and it does not look very bueno. My options at this point are search for a new shiny junkyard 9 to pull the carrier from. What should I be looking for? My axle shafts need some new seals, so I'll probably go ahead and do bearings while I have them off.

Now, that being said, if I can find a deal for a 10.25 while I'm searching for said 9" I'm considering swapping that into place. Since I've already broken one 9" how long will it be til I break another? Just wanting to do it all right the first time.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/312599_10150449310384622_816379621_11024808_708006 304_n.jpg

Someone with some knowledge come and school me on what's broken with my carrier before I make a decision please...

edit: decided to stay away from the sterling for now, if I want to make alto and still have some money in my pocket, I'm just going to have to find a 9" that supports 31 spline shafts at a junkyard and swap my gears into it. This is my cheapest fix that I can get done in time for alto.... that being said, what are some junkyards in houston/ san antonio/ dallas, that I can call that might have one. How much am I looking to pay?

robertf03
09-20-2011, 05:53 AM
9" have not been easy to find at junkyards for a while. They get scooped up for every auto project. I say 10.25

Sharpe
09-20-2011, 07:15 AM
So how'd you finally get it out?

85cj7
09-20-2011, 09:07 AM
What is broken (or missing) is pretty weird. It looks like one of the carrier bearing preload adjusters is just gone. That is what that little safety catch tag is supposed to be retaining. It threads into the third and carrier bearing cap to adjust pre-load, that is why 9" are so awesome, no carrier bearing shims.

I can see the threads in the third and they look to be good. How are the threads in the carrier bearing cap? What are the metal shards from?


I got a 9" from Awesome Auto Salvage in Dallas about 3 yrs ago. I think I payed $60. It was from a late 70s F-150. I would not recommend this route though. Everything on it needed to be re-built and it took 2 hrs to get it out of a truck that was perched on another truck with only hand tools. It sucked.

Get ahold of BDR. Last I knew he had a few complete 9" and hadn't done anything with them yet.

sasquatch
09-20-2011, 09:12 AM
who cares if the threads in the cap are good? it's cracked in half. shavings are probably from the grind marks on the back side of the carrier. the adjuster is in there some where.

best luck is a junkyard in a major city or an individual. craigslist? you should have 3.50 gears. go find another one that's the same.

85cj7
09-20-2011, 09:22 AM
What do you see that I don't?

TdmayfieldIV
09-20-2011, 11:17 AM
the bearing cap is cracked right under the nut holder thingy. That's probably why the adjusting nut fell off.

mudtoy67
09-20-2011, 02:21 PM
Damn...ya, that's some nice carnage. I don't have an assembled third, but I've got most everything but a set of gears. I'll look tonight to see what all I still have.

Hot Pocket
09-20-2011, 02:35 PM
So how'd you finally get it out?

Lots of PB Lube and a BFH


What is broken (or missing) is pretty weird. It looks like one of the carrier bearing preload adjusters is just gone. That is what that little safety catch tag is supposed to be retaining. It threads into the third and carrier bearing cap to adjust pre-load, that is why 9" are so awesome, no carrier bearing shims.

I can see the threads in the third and they look to be good. How are the threads in the carrier bearing cap? What are the metal shards from?


I got a 9" from Awesome Auto Salvage in Dallas about 3 yrs ago. I think I payed $60. It was from a late 70s F-150. I would not recommend this route though. Everything on it needed to be re-built and it took 2 hrs to get it out of a truck that was perched on another truck with only hand tools. It sucked.

Get ahold of BDR. Last I knew he had a few complete 9" and hadn't done anything with them yet.

I have the carrier bearing preload adjuster. It just fell off of the carrier. I can see the bearing behind it is bent up pretty good too. The threads in the cap look to be fine, I think the shards are from the piece that broke off of the circular part... see crappy mspaint pic.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/304656_10150450099389622_816379621_11029215_120686 3414_n.jpg

85cj7
09-20-2011, 03:51 PM
Check to see what gear ration you have.

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/2568121718.html
These should be 3.25 gears.

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/2549210174.html
Here are some 3.55. But it is way overpriced. If you could get it for $150 or less then I would go for it.

stx4wheeler
09-20-2011, 10:55 PM
The 71 rear end is to narrow for his truck.

Hot Pocket
09-21-2011, 03:06 AM
10 spline pinion, 35 spline ring... I'm guessing 35/10 = 3.50 gears?

And If I can just find a good carrier that supports 31 spline axles, then I'm good to go. I'll have to swap my gears in if I can't find one that's already got a 3.50 ratio...

85cj7
09-21-2011, 10:17 AM
You'll still have to check backlash, preload, and run a pattern if you plan to swap in your old gears to a new third. It would be easier for you to find a factory assembled one.

Hot Pocket
09-21-2011, 11:05 AM
I took the third to J&P Standard off 21 today. He told me the unit used to have a trac-loc system, and showed me where I broke pieces off of it. He also said i'll need new gears and bearings. He wants to charge me 300 without the gears. Im thinking my best bet might just be to find one thats already good to go. No sense in dumping money into this rear end since I'm planning on going to a 10.25 soon. Saw a couple 10.25 out at gordons but no 9's

mudtoy67
09-21-2011, 11:20 AM
Try the Pick a Parts in houston. There are usually at least one or two 9s there. I've got a third, pinion support, and open carrier, but I don't have an extra set of 3.55 gears.

TdmayfieldIV
09-21-2011, 12:43 PM
Did they make 3:05 sterlings?

cj nut
09-21-2011, 12:49 PM
Did ya call ABCO? They used to be auto star and are now located at smashers old place of business.

Hot Pocket
09-21-2011, 12:58 PM
They have nothing.. Tried ABCO

cj nut
09-21-2011, 03:34 PM
They have a complete rear from a 1978 with 3.50s for $200. Throw $150 at the Indian guy and call it a day

Hot Pocket
09-21-2011, 06:48 PM
They have a complete rear from a 1978 with 3.50s for $200. Throw $150 at the Indian guy and call it a day

Did you call them today? Because the guy I talked to said that the 1978 that you're talking about has been in the system for 800+ days and it's no longer there. I'll try again tomorrow and ask about it.

KrazyKarl02
09-21-2011, 07:25 PM
Yes, Vans had 3.50 sterlings in them, I had one in the Klogger.

sasquatch
09-22-2011, 01:01 PM
some gas single cab f250s had them also.

Hot Pocket
09-23-2011, 03:56 PM
picked up a rear end today, only problem is it has 3.00 gears. If anyone has some 9" 3.50's please let me know.

edit : found some oem 3.50s on ebay for 35 bucks. this is working out well, I'll be under $200 for this little project, and most of that is going to J&P, I think I scored some good deals :gigem:

sasquatch
09-25-2011, 07:14 PM
got your call. I didn't have any left so good thing you found some.

Hot Pocket
09-29-2011, 02:06 AM
Just ordered the bronco's new sound system.

Got 40 bucks off a kenwood head unit that's usually 120 on crutchfield.
2 6.5"s for the doors
2 6x9 for the rear panels

Speakers are all marine JBL series

Plans later on for a marine amp and an additional 2 6x9's, considering building a sub box for a 12 that doubles as a center console.

Planning on taking the subs out of the Jetta for the alto run :gigem:

Hot Pocket
10-03-2011, 02:28 AM
Posting this here for later

1985-1992 f250/f350 drums some were semi-float, undesireable. GAWR 6250 is desireable.
gear swap necessary to fix pinion issues.

1993-1998 f250/f350 stronger pinion
how to tell: long pinion yoke has height of 3.5 inches
short yoke 1.75 inches on splines

Hot Pocket
10-05-2011, 03:23 AM
A little teaser...
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/294287_10150472683679622_816379621_11166373_798860 616_n.jpg

Should have all of my parts coming in tomorrow. I'm trying to have the truck back on the road by this weekend.

KrazyKarl02
10-05-2011, 06:59 AM
How does that speaker help you get the truck on the road?

Hot Pocket
10-06-2011, 12:16 AM
actually it came in the mail before the rest of my parts did, and I knew I was gonna want it in there when the bronco finally got back on the road...
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/319125_10150474051969622_816379621_11172874_122906 1959_n.jpg

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/320556_10150474052044622_816379621_11172875_517514 839_n.jpg
http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/315732_10150474052079622_816379621_11172876_185075 2880_n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/302691_10150474052129622_816379621_11172877_171553 4134_n.jpg

Got the new u joint in the front axle, so I should be good for 4wd. Thanks to Travis for helping me get the old one out.
Rebuilt third with new 3.50's came in today, as did my axles with new bearings and seals. Feeling pretty good that I'm into this rear axle for cheap.

Still need to pick up a wheel seal before I can put the front shaft back in; still need to get new washers from the parts store to put the rear end in.

I have work all weekend long, and I'm sure there will be lots of drinking involved as well.. Gonna have to get some serious garage time in since I'd like it to be ready by this weekend.

I'd like to pull the transmission after alto and get that rebuilt. Also some new gauges are in order since all of mine have crapped out finally.

Hot Pocket
10-08-2011, 01:24 AM
The stereo is amazing... I am blown away, and I have done my fair share of car systems.

Hot Pocket
10-08-2011, 08:08 AM
Got everything put back together minus the rear driveshaft. Gonna hold off until the morning for a test drive. Who's ready for Alto!?!? :gigem:

Hot Pocket
10-11-2011, 03:30 PM
Truck started the death wobble at around 40 mph. As I was turning onto my street, I lost the rear left wheel. I know it wasn't lug nuts, cuz I had just tightened the **** out of them before I left for a drive. I'm not sure how the wheel managed to pop off, but it did take a lug stud with it. I'm wondering if I put the rear axle back together incorrectly, and if so, is this the cause for the DW. I have checked all of the front end steering and suspension and it all seems very tight.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/309708_10150482370614622_816379621_11227339_100529 71_n.jpg

85cj7
10-11-2011, 03:38 PM
The wheel came free from the lug nut studs? If so then the only thing it could be was that the lug nuts were not tight.

If you pressed the axle bearing on before mounting the inner seal/retainer plate then in theory the axle shaft with wheel attached could have slid out of the tube and ran off. Or if you did not properly tighten the 4 axle retainer bolts then that could have happened as well.

It looks like the wheel came off the studs though. Is that correct?


FWI-That wheel is garbage.

BroncoJo
10-11-2011, 03:57 PM
Maybe the wheel was improperly tightened? Did you tighten the lugs in an alternating pattern while the wheel/tire was off the ground? did it go on straight?


Also did the wheel come off and leave some lug-nuts on their studs? take a better picture of that

Hot Pocket
10-19-2011, 10:15 PM
Found my death wobble... problem was a little deeper than I thought...

Finally got the hub off after loosening the retainer screw and beating the ever living **** out of it, and this is what I found

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s9HAdFSm8xo

It looks like the retainer plate is sort of bent up a bit, here is a pic.
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/316406_10150495246214622_816379621_11302718_873499 872_n.jpg

Im wondering if it's possible that it got bent up when I dropped it off to have the bearings and seals pressed in.

85cj7
10-19-2011, 10:45 PM
I wonder if that shaft is bent.


Edit: Ask JB if he'll straighten it for ya! haha

Hot Pocket
10-23-2011, 07:35 PM
The pig lives again...

turns out my axle was bent

Hot Pocket
11-17-2011, 11:11 AM
3rd member leaks like a dirty pirate hooker on the rag. There's gear oil slung all over the bottom of my gas tank, which I'm assuming was slug up there while I was driving. Also, when it sits, it leaks slowly out of the bottom of the gasket. Constantly adding gear oil is a PITA, so I may just retry doing the gasket. I used this permatex gasket maker because I heard good things, but I am not convinced.
http://www.miniplane-usa.com/images/permatex_gasket.gif

Any thoughts? Should I just go buy a metal gasket and use that, or should I try again with the permatex?

TdmayfieldIV
11-17-2011, 11:14 AM
buy "right stuff" and the gasket. There are also copper washers that go on the bolts. You need to replace them to get it to seal right.

KrazyKarl02
11-17-2011, 11:15 AM
Is it leaking from the pinion seal? If so permatex ain't gonna do crap. I have used the stuff in the aerosol can, shown here http://www.permatex.com/brand_power_bead.htm and it seemed to work well. They all seem to have a wet line around the crack (insert joke here) like it is seeping, but it never develops into a drip.

Did you go around the bolt holes? Like make a little circle around the bolt hole, not just on one side?

Hot Pocket
11-17-2011, 11:20 AM
Right stuff
Gasket
Copper Washers

Got it.. Where can I get the specialized copper washers? I just used regular washers, not thinking there would be a difference :facepalm:

Sparling
11-17-2011, 11:24 AM
There's a few packages of them on the help aisle at advance.

Hot Pocket
11-17-2011, 11:25 AM
Is it leaking from the pinion seal? If so permatex ain't gonna do crap. I have used the stuff in the aerosol can, shown here http://www.permatex.com/brand_power_bead.htm and it seemed to work well. They all seem to have a wet line around the crack (insert joke here) like it is seeping, but it never develops into a drip.

Did you go around the bolt holes? Like make a little circle around the bolt hole, not just on one side?

Not leaking from the pinion seal, it's leaking from where the third actually mates to the axle housing. When I put the gasket maker on there, I did go around the bolt holes, I feel like I did a good job getting a smooth, well-made gasket, but I didn't actually use a metal gasket, just the silicon

TdmayfieldIV
11-17-2011, 11:41 AM
dunno. I just let mine leak.

BroncoJo
11-17-2011, 11:41 AM
I've had the best luck with any of that gasket maker stuff by snugging (almost but not quite all the way tight) the bolts evenly and then allowing the gaskets stuff to set before putting the final torque on it.

KrazyKarl02
11-17-2011, 12:23 PM
I've had the best luck with any of that gasket maker stuff by snugging (almost but not quite all the way tight) the bolts evenly and then allowing the gaskets stuff to set before putting the final torque on it.

X2 I usually put the stuff on, let it set for 15 minutes, install like Travis said, then come back and tighten.

Hot Pocket
11-17-2011, 01:00 PM
Thanks guys, tips for removing the old silicon?

tommy53002
11-17-2011, 01:14 PM
Thanks guys, tips for removing the old silicon?

Razor blade.

Fredo
11-17-2011, 01:14 PM
Razor blade, then scotch brite, or open wire wheel on a drill.

Afterwards, wipe both surfaces down with carb cleaner or brake cleaner before putting sealant on.

mudtoy67
11-17-2011, 02:29 PM
Anyone tried using the actual paper gasket? I've always been in the save5bucks/useRTV camp when it comes to diffs, but I'm thinking when I reassemble my 9 this time I may try it. Probably spray a little high tack gasket sealant on each side before hand.

Fredo
11-17-2011, 03:03 PM
I never bother with the paper gaskets on any diff. I remember once back when I was 15 I put the paper gasket with sealnt on the 3rdmember of an early GM 10bolt and it didn't leak. But, after coating both sides with sealant, I wondered why I was even using the gasket. From that point on I haven't bothered with them.

colman
11-17-2011, 04:03 PM
I usually used the silicon but last time i did a fluid change on a pair of axles i did the paper without silicon and it held up great....

robertf03
11-17-2011, 04:30 PM
I thought about going back to gaskets after 15 years of RTV, but they were not in stock.

mudtoy67
11-17-2011, 04:39 PM
I never bother with the paper gaskets on any diff. I remember once back when I was 15 I put the paper gasket with sealnt on the 3rdmember of an early GM 10bolt and it didn't leak. But, after coating both sides with sealant, I wondered why I was even using the gasket. From that point on I haven't bothered with them.

I know what you mean, smearing rtv on both sides of a gasket is a pain in the ass. I have had good luck with high tack gasket sealant in other applications, I think I'm going to try it here as well.

This is what I've used. It's a spray, just a light coat on each side is all you need.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PTX0/80064.oap?ck=Search_gasket+sealers_N2364_-1_465&keyword=gasket+sealers&pt=N2364&ppt=C1984

Fredo
11-17-2011, 05:32 PM
Yeah, I sometimes use that stuff with SBC valve cover gaskets, thermostat gaskets, and sometimes waterpump gaskets. It works really good on transmission pan gaskets.

Hot Pocket
12-07-2011, 09:10 PM
Since my truck is a fulltime whore and is permanently topless, I knew finding a good spot to put my amp would be challenging, but it fits snugly right inside where the glove box used to be!

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/375308_10150597204009622_816379621_11745670_178722 7073_n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/390616_10150597204064622_816379621_11745671_120387 8159_n.jpg

Fredo
12-08-2011, 12:58 AM
Taking care of the important stuff before Clayton I see. :gigem:

Hot Pocket
12-08-2011, 03:43 AM
Taking care of the important stuff before Clayton I see. :gigem:

:gigem:

I figure if there's one thing I can do right, it's a sound system...

But the truck will be at Clayton, and hopefully will only suffer minor breakage.

Hot Pocket
12-18-2011, 11:42 PM
So now that I've wheeled it, I know what it needs. I'm keeping the 9 inch, since a 1-ton swap seems pricey, and I don't see any need for anything bigger than 35s

Rear traction aid & 4.56's - gonna keep my eyes open for a deal on a whole third
Need to relocate my draglink/ tie rod
Tranny rebuild, new clutch
Skid plates, sliders, other protection etc.

Very pleased with how it held up at Clayton. Here are some pics, wish I would have taken more
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/390768_10150626832269622_816379621_11840504_382653 288_n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/394463_10150626832589622_816379621_11840505_334804 89_n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/390836_10150626832969622_816379621_11840506_212665 5237_n.jpg
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/386373_10150626833914622_816379621_11840509_175097 1471_n.jpg

steering damage:
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/381313_10150626834239622_816379621_11840510_195888 972_n.jpg

Also turns out this truck has seen some body work before. There is some bondo thats probably about an inch thick just above the drivers side tail light.

KrazyKarl02
12-19-2011, 08:33 AM
Comments on re-gearing your axles:
1) Open Microsoft Excel
2) Put cost of gear, master install kits, and labor to install in columns
3) Use the =sum() function and see how much it costs.

I think you will crap a brick when you see how much re-gearing costs as opposed to buying a $900 set of 1-tons with 4.11 already in them.

Seth
12-19-2011, 03:01 PM
I've got 4.56 dana 44 stuff.

Hot Pocket
04-05-2012, 12:01 PM
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-9-ford-Ultralite-Detroit-Locker-precision-Gear-NOSPIN-differential-/160778325984?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item256f228fe0&vxp=mtr

This should fit yes?

Also, I'm still looking for a 44 carrier that will hold 4.10s for under 40 bucks

Sparling
04-05-2012, 12:27 PM
Go figure out what gears my d44 has.

Hot Pocket
04-05-2012, 12:38 PM
Where's the axle at? Dowling? I'll head over there after class...

Hot Pocket
07-13-2012, 02:52 PM
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/469594_10151257238244622_1534958741_o.jpg

1 ton steering kit with tie rod flip on order

Hot Pocket
10-22-2012, 12:08 AM
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/580911_10151468969944622_1584361748_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/579375_10151468970074622_1010833650_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/318916_10151468970139622_1834637370_n.jpg

Hot Pocket
02-03-2013, 03:35 PM
Looking to buy a 14bff with 4.56 and a detroit. I've had enough of the cute little 9" and its tomfoolery.

Hot Pocket
03-07-2013, 07:29 AM
Proof that this forum is full of good bull:beer:


wow that is a pile... I would have run away... I hope it was near free because it will take lots of cash to get/keep running


You're all fags. I'm right.


bitches


Man, you got a sweet deal :flipoff2:


I would definitely throw some more money at it before you do any more diagnostics! :flipoff2:


at one point we were all ignorant, except cox. he was born omniscient...... or was that impotent


your mom's retarded.


Figures you would try to put a round peg in a square hole.


first mistake, never register vehicles under your real name! it puts you on the grid!


My pocket is so hot it couldn't get any hotter if it was in my pocket.


HP is hung like a horse and doesn't need to compensate like the rest of us....


If you like to laugh when you see a 78/79 bronco overheat, then yes, you will have the last laugh.


Stacked blocks...


i may be able to get them to houston in the next few weeks, ill make sure they end up in my truck for you


you wont have fun on the trail if you are worried about making it home... someone will almost always have a spot on a trailer


Why are you lubing your shafts?


You laugh but he learned that at Dexter...


Don't be a bitch. Man the **** up and hit it harder until it comes off.


it's already broken, get a bigger hammer


i like where this is going :)


Taking care of the important stuff before Clayton I see. :gigem:

Seth
03-07-2013, 05:42 PM
All from this thread?

Hot Pocket
03-07-2013, 06:00 PM
^ correct

Hot Pocket
06-30-2013, 09:32 PM
Viva la 3wd!!!! She has also been officially dubbed "The Big Black Bitch"

Let's go wheeling