CJ 5 Build

[tommy53002]

Im bored so i figured i'd post up a build thread. The whole reason for this build was to 1) to get better gearing and 2) get rid of the rusted out passenger rear frame.

Specs:
12" rear stretch
np231 box for rocks doubler
double triangulated 4-link
Stock tj coils
Full length flat belly skid

Getting started:
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/IMG_1827.jpg

Out with the old.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/IMG_1838.jpg

Making room for the doubler.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/IMG_1830.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/100_2467.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/100_2471.jpg

New Frame:
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/thomas4.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/100_2482.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/100_2484.jpg

[tommy53002]

Four link
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/100_2480.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/100_2479.jpg

Suspension done
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/100_2478.jpg

I still have alot to do like shocks, motor mounts, tranny mount, skid, brake lines, fuel lines, ect... Right now its sitting on 4 inch lift springs to level it out. When I get the chance to link the front I will lower the whole thing but right now the rear sits about 3 inches too low with the stock springs.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I like it.

[stx4wheeler]

Looking good!!

[JB]

sweet

[uglyota]

sick! I loves me some square links!

[tommy53002]

sick! I loves me some square links!

Thanks. Yeah this build is on a tight budget.

[stx4wheeler]

Only thing you might think of is gusseting the link tabs on top of the axle. Otherwise I really like the axle truss/link mount.

[uglyota]

are those misalignment spacers on your links? Will the links see enough misalignment to need them? Thought those were mostly for steering applications? Also seems like a lot of stress on those little bolts, especially with that much leverage on them...any chance of beefing up the mounts and capturing the heims a little more closely?
Or you could wait until you break a couple of bolts, then replace the lower joints with bushings and redo the upper mounts :)
Did you do all the math on this setup? Got numbers?

[tommy53002]

Yes they are misalighnment spacers and they are for suspension too (take a look at balistic joints they are made onto the joint). I didnt think of the bolts as too small they are 5/8? Which google says have a shear strength of about 30,000lbs... The heims are ruff stuff 7/8 joints, I went the them becuase of the price and they seemed to hold up just fine on the tj dustin webster ran in koh (two koh races and a couple years of wheeling on the same set of 7/8 and 3/4 joints with out issues had me sold). My cj is fairly light weight sittin on 1/2 ton axles and 33" tires and will be that way for a while so I would be surpised to have issues with shearing the bolts.

I will be adding some bracing to the lower axle and frame mounts but I didn't expect any problems out of the axle side upper mounts. What makes you believe they will fail? they are just a traditional way i've seen uppers mounted on other peoples builds?

I did not run the numbers on this setup. I may get around to it one day just to see.

[uglyota]

it's on 33s!? Even cooler!

[DRAGOONRANCH]

it's on 33s!? Even cooler!

But it won't achieve true koolness until it has a JY clutch in it, now will it? :gigem:

The only thing that worries me about heims is them getting noisy after a while. I have enough creaks and rattles as it is now. :laughing:

[breckboarder55]

Looks good.

They look bigger than 33"s, whats the wheel base at?

[tommy53002]

Wheelbase is 96 right now. The plan is to stretch the front about 6 inches and end up around 102 with 35-37's and stock coils.

[robertf03]

Wheelbase is 96 right now. The plan is to stretch the front about 6 inches and end up around 102 with 35-37's and stock coils.

I used to have a CJ5, here is how I got 100" wheelbase and coil springs

sold the CJ and bought a Discovery.

why even start with a cj5 if its that far off from what you want?

[Sharpe]

I used to have a CJ5, here is how I got 100" wheelbase and coil springs

sold the CJ and bought a Discovery.

why even start with a cj5 if its that far off from what you want?

Yuppie.

[uglyota]

Man coil springs and 100" wb...what more could you want? Wonder how come more people don't build a discovery :p

[tommy53002]

I used to have a CJ5, here is how I got 100" wheelbase and coil springs

sold the CJ and bought a Discovery.

why even start with a cj5 if its that far off from what you want?


I like my 5. I got it when i turned 16 and have learned to wrench/fab on it. I hope to never be in a position where i HAVE to get rid of it. I needed better gearing and the cheapest/ most effective way for me to get it was to run a doubler which meant I HAD to stretch the rear. As far as stretching the front is concerned the main point is to get rid of leafs and get the jeep lower.

[robertf03]

Man coil springs and 100" wb...what more could you want? Wonder how come more people don't build a discovery :p

because its easier to kludge an axle under an IFS truck and keep telling yourself that the 22re is a good engine ;)

why build something thats already perfect?

[Sharpe]

why build something thats already perfect?

Because you can think of alot more creative electronic ways to **** it up? :flipoff2:

[agjohn02]

Ive seen that rover, its been un-built more than its been built. Wires dangling everywhere, duct tape anti-theft device, nails falling out, weird rattles from underneath...

[davido]

Wheelbase is 96 right now. The plan is to stretch the front about 6 inches and end up around 102 with 35-37's and stock coils.

Is the rear at stock location or did you move it back some?

Looks good!

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I needed better gearing and the cheapest/ most effective way for me to get it was to run a doubler which meant I HAD to stretch the rear.


Is the rear at stock location or did you move it back some?

Looks good!


search noob!

[davido]

That's Mr. Noob to you! Reading is for suckers anyway.



Actually, I missed the "pre" photo. It's pretty obvious. I like the look. Don't left Flem get you down. He's bitter since he's about to be tossed into the real world. :D

[DRAGOONRANCH]

That's Mr. Noob to you! Reading is for suckers anyway.

Don't make me put my little hat and clown make-up on! :flipoff2:

[85cj7]

Its been a while, but weren't you asking/looking for transmission options?

Well, here ya go. . . http://lsjc.org/board/showthread.php?t=36196



Edit: whoops just saw you put in a 231 double, never mind then.:D

[tommy53002]

Yeah, I found a few good deals on some tf999s but in the end went with the doubler. I think it was a better choice..

[tommy53002]

Well, I got around to doing some work the past couple weekends.

Started out with some high tech planning for the skid plate subframe.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/100_2507.jpg

Then got started on some new motor mounts.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/100_2509.jpg

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/100_2510.jpg

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/100_2515.jpg

Added some bracing.:gigem:
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/100_2519.jpg

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/100_2522.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/100_2521.jpg

[agjohn02]

Man, i had to wear brases on my teef once. it sucked.

[tommy53002]

Then I moved onto the subframe.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/100_2524.jpg

I got all of the frame done. Now all I need is to finish up the tranny mount and add tabs for the skid plate to attach.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/100_2526.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/100_2525.jpg

Thats all i have so far. It will be a couple of weeks before i get to work on it some more.

[redcagepatrol]

why even start with a cj5 if its that far off from what you want?

Logic - blah!!!:flipoff2:

[uglyota]

I like it!

[tommy53002]

Logic - blah!!!:flipoff2:

With that kind of logic we should all be starting with a tube chassis or be wheeling stock vehicles?:confused:

[redcagepatrol]

start with a CJ-7, wrangler, or TJ - something longer with a better(and wider) frame and body rather than cut up and modify a perfectly fine CJ tub and frame...
You can always put the CJ grill and hood on a YJ tub as I did.

[colman]

cj5 and cj7 frames are the same width...

[redcagepatrol]

cj5 and cj7 frames are the same width...

yes, get a YJ or TJ one like I did... mucho better:D

[redcagepatrol]

build thread:
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=6982

[tommy53002]

Even if i started with a tj/yj I would end up stretching the wheelbase and cutting up the body so..... and why would i want a wider frame?

[colman]

i agree that yj frames are better but as we all know cj front clips rule

[uglyota]

..... and why would i want a wider frame?

so you could inboard the springs, of course!

[redcagepatrol]

Even if i started with a tj/yj I would end up stretching the wheelbase and cutting up the body so..... and why would i want a wider frame?

I was thinking flat belly when you change to a real t-case but looks like you have a doubler and moved your axle back far enough to have a decent d-shaft. Might work out ok:flipoff2:

[colman]

i'm a fan of cj5's, i love mine, build what you want and tell everyone else to go f them selves. just look at flem and his retarded rovers

[redcagepatrol]

rovers are cool! 5's are cool too - not stretched a ton - and if your a midget.:D

[robertf03]

i'm a fan of cj5's, i love mine, build what you want and tell everyone else to go f them selves. just look at flem and his retarded rovers

yeah those 3" lift springs were a hell of a build on mine, not sure if anyones built something that extreme before :D

[agjohn02]

i agree that yj frames are better but as we all know cj front clips rule

:gigem: as long as you do the required work to make it look good.



so you could inboard the springs, of course!

so you don't have to outboard the springs, you mean?

[colman]

i prefer to cut down full sized axles and then bolt them into cj's without outbording. ive done it several times for different people and am about to do it to a 60.... to each his own

[tommy53002]

I've been thinking about how im going to fit my exhaust under the rig and because of how tight everything is (and lack of money) I plan on doing it myself. So my question is, what is the general consensus on useing the flexible exhaust pipe?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_x_5600031-P_x_x?cm_mmc=CSE-_-Google-_-VALUE3-_-VALUE4&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=5600031

Will it hold up? Is it complete crap? Will it work for a relatively tight bend?


Edit* just to clarify, I want to use the flex pipe at the down pipe where the exhaust bends and heads to the rear of the jeep.

[Shaggy]

the only thing i would "exhaust" with that is my dryer

[Shaggy]

you could get it done right by someone else for around $100 so just work a couple hours overtime and dont be gay

[bcolman]

i dont have any experience with the flexible exhaust pipe but i do know that big rigs use it so there must be some out there that is worth a dam

[tommy53002]

you could get it done right by someone else for around $100 so just work a couple hours overtime and dont be gay

There is almost no room for my exhaust, I imagine it would cost alot more than $100 for someone to do it, if I could find someone willing to do it at all.... Im no exhaust expert but im pretty sure the skid will have to be removed and reinstalled multiple times to make all the bends necessary for it to all fit.

Sooo.. back to my question. Is the flex pipe worth a damn? If it is, it will make the hardest part of the whole thing be pretty easy.

[Shaggy]

it might work but seems ghetto to me... and that is coming from a guy that re-used old frame

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Don't use it unless you plan to keep it for a short time. It is ok in a street application, but on a rig that will see a good bit of flex it will wear out pretty quick. Especially if you are using it coming right off the engine where it will see the most movement. I am sure that Rusty can get your hard bends put in for the C-note and you could finish out the rest. Building it all yourself wouldn't be a bad 'learning experience though. May have to do that on mine once it's all said and done to really tuck it up like it needs to be.

[stx4wheeler]

There is a guy in Bryan off south college close to the bend, that did an awesome job on my bronco tucking it up tight. I supplied the muffler and I think it was around $250 and worth every penny. I think some people will disagree with me, but from the two times I tried to use him he sucked. Rusty can go blow his trombone that guy is a douche.

[Sharpe]

There is a guy in Bryan off south college close to the bend, that did an awesome job on my bronco tucking it up tight. I supplied the muffler and I think it was around $250 and worth every penny. I think some people will disagree with me, but from the two times I tried to use him he sucked. Rusty can go blow his trombone that guy is a douche.

Rusty did Pigpen's exhaust. Pigpen is awsome. You're a faggot. The end.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I think the key to having Rusty doing a good job is to not get it done on Saturday right before he is closing (and right before you need to be taking off on a ~4000 mile round trip :flipoff2: )

[Seth]

My rusty experience has also been so-so. He does do decent work, just not high on my cestomer service scale.

[tommy53002]

Don't use it unless you plan to keep it for a short time. It is ok in a street application, but on a rig that will see a good bit of flex it will wear out pretty quick. Especially if you are using it coming right off the engine where it will see the most movement.

Thanks Ed that is exactly what I wanted to know. I guess that means i'll be spending some time doing exhaust work. I will not take my stuff to Rusty's even if he can do a good job. That guy is an a$$. Besides judging by my last experience with him, he wont do my exhaust without putting a $200 catalytic converter on it....

[bcolman]

i have used mcalister and sons on texas, they do good work, they did give me some grief about not putting on a cat so they just ran the pipe to that point and then i put my muffler on it

[tommy53002]

i have used mcalister and sons on texas, they do good work, they did give me some grief about not putting on a cat so they just ran the pipe to that point and then i put my muffler on it

They closed. If I was going to use anyone it would be Bryan muffler on s. college.

[tommy53002]

update:

I finally got around to working on the jeep again.
some brackets for bracing.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/03-07-11_1751.jpg

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/03-09-11_1946.jpg

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/03-09-11_1947.jpg

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/03-27-11_1412.jpg

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/03-27-11_1411.jpg

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/03-08-11_1824.jpg

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/03-29-11_1853.jpg

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/03-29-11_1852.jpg

[TdmayfieldIV]

bout time......

[tommy53002]

I got some more work done this week.

Body mounts.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-11-11_1718.jpg



Shock mounts.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-12-11_2015.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-12-11_2013.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-13-11_1743.jpg



Transmission Mount.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-11-11_1724.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-11-11_1723.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-11-11_1725.jpg



Capped off the end of the frame and added some clevis mounts.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-20-11_1634.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-18-11_1948.jpg

[tommy53002]

Made new square drive shafts.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-13-11_1838.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-14-11_1959.jpg



For the rear I just retubed the old shaft using 2" x 3/16"wall square tubing.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-14-11_2000.jpg



Bracing for frame side lowers.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-11-11_1722.jpg



I started on the exhaust and fuel lines. Plus redid some wiring. Next week i'll finish the fuel lines, exhaust and brakes. After that, it should be mobile again.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-20-11_1922.jpg

[tommy53002]

So, how important is a proportioning valve on a off road rig? I am running all new brake lines and if its not important I will leave it out...

Also, i'm using my stock tank in the back of the jeep. I cut all of the fuel lines off when I started the 4 link now i'm trying to put it all back together. The tank has 4 ports (plus the filler tube). One port is the line going to the fuel filter then onto the carb. At the fuel filter there is one input line and two outputs. One of the outputs is the one going to the carb. I believe the other is a return line to the tank. What is the point of that line returning to the tank? I dont know what the other two ports on the tank are for. I believe one is a vent that went to the evap canister but, I don't really remember. It has been over 8 months since I cut all this stuff out and now I dont really remember what went where.

I am a fan of simplifing things so, would there be adverse effects to capping off everything but the supply line and a vent line?

[eight]

I don't run a proportioning valve. All it does is reduce pressure to rear brakes. If anything I still don't have as much rear brakes as front. Makes no difference in 4wd though.

The other two lines were for the evap ****. I plugged them and now have no vent, would recommend having a vent. I think they ran a return to keep the fuel moving so as to prevent it from getting hot and vapor lock. Also convenient when converting to fuel injection.

[TdmayfieldIV]

Looks good man.

[tommy53002]

I don't run a proportioning valve. All it does is reduce pressure to rear brakes. If anything I still don't have as much rear brakes as front. Makes no difference in 4wd though.

The other two lines were for the evap ****. I plugged them and now have no vent, would recommend having a vent. I think they ran a return to keep the fuel moving so as to prevent it from getting hot and vapor lock. Also convenient when converting to fuel injection.

Good to know. I'm ditching the proportioning valve.

Thanks, I guess i'll run the supply line and a return line and plug the other too off.


Looks good man.

Thanks, i'm getting tired of working on it. I'm ready to do some wheeling. This week I should be able move it under its own power for the first time in 9 months. Why the hell do my builds always take ten times longer than I want them to:confused:.

[davido]

Jeep is looking good!


So, how important is a proportioning valve on a off road rig? I am running all new brake lines and if its not important I will leave it out...

I would add one. They can make a HUGE difference. Plus you have drums now. When you go to add discs later, I would think you'd really want one then.

You can also add either electronic or manual line locks which are great makeshift e-brakes.

[eight]

You need a vent line. I don't have one and it'll die after a while. Only been like this since I cut the back off. Not sure why the gas cap let's fuel out but won't let air in.

[85cj7]

I have a willwood prop. valve and found it was pretty important when tuning the braking power from front to rear when going to 4wheeldisks. I run the front with no prop. valve though, only have the willwood on the rear.

[tommy53002]

Got some more work done.

Brake lines
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-26-11_1644.jpg

I made short steel lines to adapt the plastic lines to the drums.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-26-11_1709.jpg

Rear Center limit strap
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-26-11_1758.jpg

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-29-11_1712.jpg

http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-29-11_1716.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-29-11_1717.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-29-11_1648.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/04-29-11_1719.jpg

I still have lots of little things to finish up but it was great to finally drive it again. The new crawl ratio is awesome. it flexes great but im going to have to try changing up the front leave springs to get more even articulation. As it sits now the rear is doing all the work.

[bcolman]

looks good

[BroncoJo]

Why so unhappy? :flipoff2:

[TdmayfieldIV]

Nice. Now you need some bigger tires

[tommy53002]

Nice. Now you need some bigger tires

Yeah, I'm going to stick with the 33's untill I get some aftermarket shafts or tons. I might get some 35/36s if i find a good deal.

[Sparling]

I have 36's for cheap.

[tommy53002]

I finally got around to working on the jeep saturday.

I modified my old d300 shifter to work again.
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/08-20-11_1733.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/08-20-11_1729.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/08-20-11_1732.jpg
http://i580.photobucket.com/albums/ss248/tommy53002/Rear%204%20link%20and%20frame%20build/08-20-11_1730.jpg

It is not bling cable shifters but it will get the job done. Untill i twin stick later down the road.

I also started on the shifter for the doubler. My original plan was to just make a shifter and figure out a way to make solid linkage work. Then i did some searchin on pirate and found a affordable cable to make a cable shifter. So now i am ordering a mcmaster sealed cable. It will be much easier to package and much cleaner looking this way.

I am in need of a fuel cell. I had planned to reuse my stock tank for a while but when i drained the old gas it looked pretty bad inside and the sending unit was very corroded. So now im looking for a cheap 10-15 gal fuel cell. Also the fuel pump is leaking like a stuck pig so i will have to replace it.

[tommy53002]

Wheelin the xterra last week gave me the itch to get this thing wheel able again.

Finished up some little thing like brake lines, new fuel pump, fuel lines then got started on a fuel cell mount.
http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd77d3-d9d0-fc2d.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd77d3-d9e3-a15c.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd77d3-d9f2-fa57.jpg

I waisted a ton of time getting a broke bolt out off the Dana 300 and got started on a rear support for the 300.

I finally got around to ordering a cable for the 231 shifter.

Left to do:
Np231 shifter
New floor
Exhaust
Skid plate
Rear bump stops


I plan to hit up down south Offroad on the 18th for a shake down run. Anybody interested?

[KrazyKarl02]

I'll be at DSO on the 18th with the Krew from Krosby Kustomz.

[tommy53002]

I'll be at DSO on the 18th with the Krew from Krosby Kustomz.

Cool, I'll meet y'all out there. Who is krosby kustoms?

[stx4wheeler]

Me and Karl, with possible other friends.

[tommy53002]

Got some more work done Saturday.
Got the fuel cell in.http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd620f-4dd0-5f73.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd620f-4de4-c7dd.jpg
Added a rear support for the Dana 300.
http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd620f-4e0e-43f6.jpg
Started on the np231 cable sifter. I finished the transfer case side.http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd620f-4eb0-78cf.jpg
I also finished the exhaust.

This week I'm going to finish the shifter and the rear bump stops then it should be ready for testing.

[tommy53002]

Shifterhttp://img.tapatalk.com/4a5fe065-4edf-cbff.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/4a5fe065-4ef0-6233.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/4a5fe065-4eff-43cb.jpg

[KrazyKarl02]

So everything ready for Saturday?

[tommy53002]

So everything ready for Saturday?

I'm going to make some bump stops and go around tightening bolts tonight... but other than that yes.

[tommy53002]

http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd721e-d9c6-ca41.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/aefd721e-d9d5-852c.jpg

[tommy53002]

I took the manifolds off the jeep and lucked out. The coolant leak was from a rusted out freeze plug in the head. http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd70fd-f2a3-2595.jpg

[KrazyKarl02]

Yes, very lucky, so you going to tap a new one in and call it good? Let me know when you want to go to DSO!

[jasonjuch]

I took the manifolds off the jeep and lucked out. The coolant leak was from a rusted out freeze plug in the head. http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd70fd-f2a3-2595.jpg

I need to do the same.. its as easy as just pulling out and tapping a new one in?

[KrazyKarl02]

Theoretically yes, that is what you should have to do, maybe some clean up with a wire wheel. However I have done some that then habitually leak and you end up having to jam RTV and all sorts of other BS in there.

[tommy53002]

Yes, very lucky, so you going to tap a new one in and call it good? Let me know when you want to go to DSO!
Yeah, i'm just going to replace it with a brass one so it doesnt rust out again 30 years from now...
I'm always down for some DSO.


I need to do the same.. its as easy as just pulling out and tapping a new one in?

Yes, All you do is tap it in. I usually use some sealant on it as well.

[tommy53002]

DIY beadlocks showed up this week. http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd65ac-b6bd-32b2.jpg

[tommy53002]

Trying to get the beadlocks done this week.
http://img.tapatalk.com/4a5fe065-26d7-ffbb.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/4a5fe065-2be1-6455.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/4a5fe065-2bf6-66ae.jpg

I finished two of them and should get the other two done tonight.

[KrazyKarl02]

All those bolts suck!

[tommy53002]

Been busy lately. Finally closed on a house and got moved in.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/01/jenapedu.jpg
This is the first time I've had a garage. Even got to hang up a banner that tommy brought back from ttc.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/01/vyda6eba.jpg

Pimp my ride?http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/01/e5a9upe2.jpg

Anybody up for a run to that park in Huntsville or DSO in the next month or so?

[KrazyKarl02]

Congrats! Where is the house, let me know on when you want to go, I am game.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Yep, should be down for a DSO trip.

[BroncoJo]

Nice!

[tommy53002]

Congrats! Where is the house, let me know on when you want to go, I am game.

It's in the Valley Ranch subdivision off highway 59 in Porter.

[tommy53002]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/26/pysu7ata.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/26/qebapegy.jpg
Passenger side is complete. I'm still going to cut and weld in some flanges to make the whole seat bar removable.

[tommy53002]

Getting closer.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/ytysamah.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/qyjudare.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/30/4e3evy8u.jpg

[KrazyKarl02]

What seats are those?

[tommy53002]

What seats are those?

Race trim

[tommy53002]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/07/uba9yna6.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/07/3yny3e5e.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/07/9e8esyru.jpg
Finished.

[KrazyKarl02]

Looks good. The holes inboard are for seatbelts? Where are the outboard holes?. Let me know when you want to test it.

[tommy53002]

Looks good. The holes inboard are for seatbelts? Where are the outboard holes?. Let me know when you want to test it.

I'm not really sure what the point of the slots are. They are too low to work for anybody of normal height. I ran the shoulder harnesses through the loops at the tops of te seats.

[tommy53002]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70kzSSDhIzE
We did a little playing around today. Went out riding with some friends. they were in a stock 4 door JK. The seats were nice and comfortable. The jeep did good. The carb was giving me some issues but that's to be expected when I let it sit too long without driving it. I think I'm going to upgrade to a mc2150 in the not too distant future.

[Sparling]

I think I'm going to upgrade to a mc2150 in the not too distant future.

If you want to get fancy, there's some company that sells a float kit for it that makes it even better.

[Shaggy]

Funny listening to someone that has never seen a jeep crawl. Good stuff.

[tommy53002]

Funny listening to someone that has never seen a jeep crawl. Good stuff.

Their commentary is hilarious.

[tommy53002]

I'm in the market for a new winch. I had a cheap milemarker that lasted almost 10 years, but I'm wanting to step up to something better. Here's what i'm looking at.

Smittybilt XRC 8 :$299 Pro's: cheap, i hear it is fairly reliable. Cons: Slow
Warn M8000: $499. Pro's: proven reliable, uses contactor in lieu of solenoid Cons: Slow
Warn Zeon 8: $699. Pro's: slightly faster, sealed housing, looks cool Cons: cost more $
Warn 9.5xp USED: $600 Pro's: fast, proven Cons: buying used...
Warn 9.5ti USED: $600 Pro's: very fast, proven Cons: buying used....

What are yall opinions? I think I have ruled out the Zeon because the cost(compared to the M8000). I think the 9.5ti is the best winch in the group but im nervous buying used. Is there a better bang for you buck winch out there i should be looking at?

[robertf03]

I don't know what the xp or ti are, but why not a warn regular 9500? Its got to be one of the most popular ones out there used.

I'd look for that first, and the m8000 last. I've though for a while that the m8000 is a chinese winch with a warn disguise.

[Cavasar]

I put the XRC8 on mine a couple days ago, haven't gotten to use it yet though. $274.99 shipped from Quadratec. I called and they waived the $20 freight charge.

[tommy53002]

I don't know what the xp or ti are, but why not a warn regular 9500? Its got to be one of the most popular ones out there used.

I'd look for that first, and the m8000 last. I've though for a while that the m8000 is a chinese winch with a warn disguise.

I haven't seen a regular 9500 for sale. My craigslist skills came up with the XP and ti mentioned above. I believe (could be wrong) the 'ti' is an updated version of the regular 9500 and the 'ti' has since been replaced with the 'cti'.

[tommy53002]

I put the XRC8 on mine a couple days ago, haven't gotten to use it yet though. $274.99 shipped from Quadratec. I called and they waived the $20 freight charge.

The price tag for the XRC is the main reason it is so tempting. If I go with a cheaper winch, I was thinking about splurging on a better battery (replace my walmart battery).

[Sharpe]

Used Warn over any cheap **** hands down. Have you ever handled a Warn? They are just built better in every way.

[Shaggy]

Warn. You will be more pissed about a broken winch. It is just money f it.

[tommy53002]

Well the 9.5ti is out. I talked to he guy and he has someone coming to pick it up Monday. He said first come first serve, but he is located outside of San Antonio......

I'm going to keep looking for used winches to try and find a good deal. I may check on the xp and see if it is still available.


EDIT: I just talked to the guy selling the 9.5XP. I am going to meet him Sunday and will probably buy it for $500. From what he said, the winch has only been used a few times. It's a $1,200. winch new so this seem like a good deal.

[bcolman]

if you are interested in a 12k warn i have one that is missing solenoid pack and controller but I will let it go for $250, located just north of galleria in houston

[tommy53002]

if you are interested in a 12k warn i have one that is missing solenoid pack and controller but I will let it go for $250, located just north of galleria in houston

I may let you know if the 'xp' doesn't work out.

[tommy53002]

Got the new winch installed.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/19/egygy4uh.jpg

[KrazyKarl02]

Sweet, looks pretty lightly used.

[tommy53002]

Sweet, looks pretty lightly used.

The guy claimed he used it less than 10 times. It looks almost new, so i'm inclined to believe him. The only thing wrong with it is the roller fairlead. It looks like he ran into something with it because it is bent to hell. I'm going to try and straighten it out, but for now I still have my old rusty one.

[85cj7]

I have a brand new roller fairlead that I have never used. It has sat in my shed for 3 years. PM me if interested.

[Sharpe]

Harbor Freight has fairly inexpensive roller fairleads for not too much. I have one, decent quality.

[85cj7]

I have a brand new roller fairlead that I have never used. It has sat in my shed for 3 years. PM me if interested.

Clean your box!!!!

[tommy53002]

Clean your box!!!!

done

[tommy53002]

I've been wanting to lower the jeep ever since I did the four link in the rear. The front is soa with stock YJ springs so the only way to get lower is to French the springs into the frame but I want to do a shackle reversal at the same time. due to the shape of the frame it will be hard to do what I want and keep a decent leaf spring angle.
That leads me to my latest idea. Leafspring slider boxes.
I would still do a shackle reversal but I would recess the slider box instead of a shackle. Having a slider box instead of a shackle should help keep the leaf angle okay.

Anybody have any experience with slider boxes?

[Shaggy]

I imagine it would wear really fast with what we do. Why not link front?

[mudtoy67]

I've seen quite a few builds using the Liquid Iron Industries slider boxes. They seem to hold up pretty well.

[tommy53002]

I imagine it would wear really fast with what we do. Why not link front?

I haven't read about any wear issues yet.

I will eventually link it, but I don't want to spend the money on it now. I can make my own slider boxes, and everything else i need to make this work is already there... So I can make this change for next to nothing.

Edit: My only real concern is performance. My rear suspension already does most of the work..... I don't want to make it even more unbalanced. My whole reason for wanting to try this is to get the rig to sit lower (about 4-5").

[tommy53002]

Found a good deal on a 2006 superduty 60.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/09/6y5aqydy.jpg
I plan to gather parts for the next year before doing the swap.

[BroncoJo]

Awesome

[KrazyKarl02]

Excellent!

[tommy53002]

Excellent!

Have you swapped over the parts for the YJ yet?

[KrazyKarl02]

I have done an impressive amount of nothing... I need to schedule a weekend to knock it out.

[tommy53002]

I have done an impressive amount of nothing... I need to schedule a weekend to knock it out.

Shoot me a text if you need a hand.

[tommy53002]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/17/e7evasu6.jpg

Decided to finally finish my skid plate. Made some good progress today. I should be able to finish it this week.

[tommy53002]

Decided to finally do something about the huge hole in my floorboard.
Mockup
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/10/a4uvu3a8.jpg
Getting started
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/10/typyne4y.jpg
Next time I do sheet metal work I'm investing in a brake.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/10/aryhapyp.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/10/5uqavasa.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/10/egeradet.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/10/amy3evap.jpg
I still need need to fill in some spots and I'm going to get some rubber material to close off the whole bottom part.

[85cj7]

Looks good. I like that it angles off the dash.

[tommy53002]

Looks good. I like that it angles off the dash.

Thanks. I like the look of center consoles and I don't normally see them used with a standard transmission so I figured it would be somewhat "different".

I need to cut down the shifter and find a shifter boot that fits the opening.

[tommy53002]

Picked up an old mc2100 off eBay. Rebuilt it last week and got it on and fired up today.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/17/sepyduge.jpg
Old vs new
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/17/huze7u4a.jpg
The Venturi assembly as a crack so it will be getting replaced.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/17/e5ybeqed.jpg
Sitting in place.

Anyone have an idea what this extra linkage part is for? It is sitting just inside the throttle linkage.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/17/esety5em.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/17/asubygem.jpg
It spins about 90* freely .

I took the jeep for a spin earlier and I'm happy with the new carb. The throttle response is great. I still need to tune it better. Right now it is idling high. Later I will do some of the mods to help it perform better.

[Sparling]

What did the carb come off of? That could be a clue. We have some trucks at work with hand throttles that have extra linkages.

[KrazyKarl02]

What kind of choke is on that carb? Looks electronic, is it tied to the high idle during choke? Like would that linkage keep the throttle blades from closing?

[tommy53002]

What did the carb come off of? That could be a clue. We have some trucks at work with hand throttles that have extra linkages.

I don't really know what it came off of. Carb code brought up a 73-74 ford truck.

[tommy53002]

What kind of choke is on that carb? Looks electronic, is it tied to the high idle during choke? Like would that linkage keep the throttle blades from closing?

The choke is currently the auto heat kind but this choke isn't connected to this linkage.
From what I can tell, it just effects the throttle.

[tommy53002]

Sooo, this happened.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/15/0ae7b53e478bb138dbae13266c77a19b.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/15/282d667494edaa3f97229a7774742782.jpg

Thanks to Karl for letting me barrow his receiver winch.
I used my wife's xterra to get unstuck.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/15/b965a903d0247351a645e80f6b83f7a4.jpg

[tommy53002]

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/15/5eef0cb8c14d0937f5aa7210a33247ef.jpg
Out of the transfer cases.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/12/15/8295ec0f2c3ba991c40af8d446e3d7ca.jpg

[FJAggie07]

http://replygif.net/i/90.gif

[tommy53002]

I'm taring everything down now to clean it up. Plus i have an unidentified problem with the clutch being stuck engaged.

Right now I am weighing some options on how to proceed.

I have been considering swapping the t-176 for an auto transmission for a while. My hope is that I could reduce the drivetrain length and still have some crawlability with an auto. I am just now starting to collect some measurements to see if its even possible.
My thought process: swap in auto transmission (probably a TF999) and get red of my box 4 rocks doubler. hope to have shorter drive train for better rear drive shaft angle. I would like get the jeep to where I could drive it on the road again. The rear shaft angle is so bad right now, that you can't get over ~34-40 mph without feeling like it's about to rip itself apart.

I love my current crawl ratio (it is somewhere around 100:1 and I'm only running 33" tires). I don't know if I would be happy with the gear after the swap.

This is where i'm looking for opinions. Will the auto make a big enough difference for me to not miss my doubler?
Also, what would be your recommendation for an auto tranny? I'm starting to look into TF999's and AW4's. I want to avoid expensive adapters.

[tommy53002]

http://replygif.net/i/90.gif

Ha... it got much worse than the pictures show. After trying to get myself out for about an hour, I was waist deep in water sitting in the driver seat and the back of the tub was ~6" under water. I ended up leaving the jeep over night and getting it out the next day. 6 hours of winching dead weight since the clutch wouldn't disengage.

[tommy53002]

Well this place has been dead lately so I figured I would add a little update.

So far my only real carnage is the clutch.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/22/922e092b54647e8e1d913eaa012bf703.jpg
When I get the new one in, I can start reassembling everything.

I did find one heim joint that needs to be replaced. The insert started working its way out.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/22/2d6b75f2157b6fbba79a92a6da8099b0.jpg

I haven't decided how I am going to reattach my lower crossmember (I cut it out to make removing everything easier). I just want to make sure it is strong since both lower links attach to it.http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/01/22/845471fcc3f03806b426477e916ad60b.jpg

[tommy53002]

Coming back together.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/23/feb28db29b753029d2cc57f8a5d82d8e.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/23/e0c9fdc6c89dc605a4bc124cb314e6ca.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/23/79053ae3a619d2833b8522efe48693f4.jpg

[tommy53002]

To do list:
Put new u joints in drive shafts
Install drive shafts
Relocate breather lines on axles
Fill axles with gear oil
Replace rear brakes
Replace starter solenoid
Install rear shocks
Install skid plate
Install console
Fix roller fair lead

[tommy53002]

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/30/4dcac1e5d777c50088238d96ff2e3ad5.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/03/30/7c92f3e50a61248eb5350932267bd0d5.jpg

Finished up my console.

I cut the shifter down 4". Now that it's all buttoned up, I wish I had went another 1-2" shorter, but it is better than it was.

[tommy53002]

To do list:
Fill axles with gear oil
Bleed brakes
Fix roller fair lead

list is getting shorter...

[tommy53002]

Picked up some LII slider boxes for the front of the jeep. My goal is to lower everything 4".
Before.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/03/2edc549acbbb7aec879015a8149518c6.jpg
After. Lowered rear with stock TJ could.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/10/03/5b26f38827423993d6e49aff09099b3c.jpg

Still waiting for the slider boxes to come in so I can keep going on the front. I cut off the rear bumps to move them up. I need to figure out rear shock mounts to get up travel back.

[tommy53002]

I got all the brackets cut off the front and mocked up the slider boxes.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/14/5817e5570056f63ad410504294e874ed.jpg

The ride height, as it sits, is 2 1/2" too high.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/14/ba8cc0ebd23d2bcd60c076cc9cef1338.jpg


I'm trying to decide how to proceed.
Option 1: French front hanger into frame.
Option 2: Stretch the wheelbase enough that the front spring hanger can be mounted off the front bumper.
Option 3: ditch the leaves and 3 link it.

I'm leaning toward option 2. I'd like to have the extra wheelbase. It was ~96" before. Option 2 will involve moving the steering box up and forward.

Thoughts?

[KrazyKarl02]

Option 1 and 2!

How hard is it to relocate the steering box?

[tommy53002]

Option 1 and 2!

How hard is it to relocate the steering box?

I'm not sure. It can't be too bad. Since I would be moving it up and forward (toward front of jeep), i will need to cut off the old leafspring outboard supports, probably have to cut out the stock crossmember, redo my winch mount/plate, might have to cut out some of the grill, and build new bumper that will act as a crossmember...

[bcolman]

or go full hydro

[tommy53002]

or go full hydro

That is the long term plan... for now, I want it to be wheelable again.

[tommy53002]

What size heims are yall using for steering? 3/4"?

[KrazyKarl02]

3/4 heims, also my misalignment spacer is a 3/4 hole, not the crap that fits in the heim and makes the bolt hole go down to 5/8's. 3/4 seems to be the standard, you could probably get by with less due to your tire size.

Also just for information, my psc 2.5" full hydro ram came with 5/8's heims. So evidently psc thinks 5/8's is strong enought to push both wheels.

[Sparling]

I'd also make sure you weld on a tab to make it double sheer at the knuckles too, that will add a lot of strength.

[tommy53002]

I'd also make sure you weld on a tab to make it double sheer at the knuckles too, that will add a lot of strength.

I'm going to look into making the arms double sheer, but I may not have space between the arm and the rim/tire.

I think I may have run into a new problem anyways. I've been planning to use degree shims to correct my pinion angle. Since the front of the leaf springs are going to be higher than before (in relation to the back of the leaf spring), the pinion will be pointed down. So, when I add degree shims to correct the pinion angle, i'm pretty sure the steering arms are going to end up lower than the leaf springs. Meaning, the tie rod and drag link would likely end up trying to occupying the same space as the leaf springs.

I should know better once i get it all mocked up in it's new position.

[colman]

more work but you may need to cut and turn the knuckles

[tommy53002]

more work but you may need to cut and turn the knuckles

Yeah, I did that when I did the spring over. I really don't want to do it again...

[KrazyKarl02]

I put the largest degree shim I could buy in mine, I think 8 degree? Then I put a misalignment spacer between the helm and the highsteer arm and it clears. It lightly touches at full droop. My pinion is not perfect, but it points up.

[tommy53002]

I put the largest degree shim I could buy in mine, I think 8 degree? Then I put a misalignment spacer between the helm and the highsteer arm and it clears. It lightly touches at full droop. My pinion is not perfect, but it points up.

I'm fairly certain I'm going to have an issue. My old set up had the pinion set at 0* and I only had 1/8-1/4" clearance between the leafs and the tie rod. So, with my new set up, when I rotate the pinion to be back at 0*.. I think my tie rod will be lined up with the center of the leaf pack.

3 linking the front is starting to sound like a better solution every day...

but, i brought the plasma cutter home from work yesterday, and the new steering rod ends should come in this week. So, i'm going to get new brackets cut and try and mock things up.. Then I will really know what i'm dealing with.

[tommy53002]

Not much going on. I did get a battery box and heim joints from Ruff Stuff.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160112/17e9228e2e5864ec375b8124315a1718.jpg

[tommy53002]

Got a couple hours in the garage this morning.
I cut out the new spring hanger brackets.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160117/44937645cb353354124b874472f29a60.jpg
A plasma cutter sure is faster than my old angle grinders.

Got the bumper tacked onto place and tacked on the hangers for mock up.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160117/84734a1a7a5237b65370083a382340b4.jpg

This stretches the front 6 1/2".

I'm hoping to get a few hours in tomorrow so hopefully I can get the slider boxes tacked onto place so I can put weight back on the springs.

[tommy53002]

I got the front end mocked up with the weight on the front axle. Ride height is within 1/2" of what I was aiming for. Which is good enough for me. To get any lower, I would have to French the slider boxes up and I don't feel like 1/2" is worth all the extra work.
Ended up with 7" of stretch. New wheelbase is 101".
I pulled it all apart to bench weld the bumper.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160125/4663787016fd3481ae333d01c0b9e9f9.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160125/9fb6b07c4e0e7c359031480dba4d9c7d.jpg

Next up is remounting the steering gear box. I'm going to need to notch the frame for up travel. As is, I would only have 1-2". I'm shooting for closer to 4" up.

[tommy53002]

Got some more work done.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160204/6a0410e9ba48fe1f9da2cd6b04ffa4b8.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160204/6870876787b26e1927ec9875cd336d1e.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160204/dea3378a63faba3fddfd5bc951831d7b.jpg

Next up is welding the slider boxes into place. Then on to steering.

[tommy53002]

Progress.
Boxed in the frame.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160307/9b337e5199fc1abd0e3765b4030f99c8.jpg
Got the sliders welded in and added bracing.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160307/33046c4cf96f99e409184d764818a20e.jpg

Got it sitting on the suspension now. Rolled a tire over to take a look.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160307/65ba59cd01f9c904848cb46c2d005e89.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160307/78f41ab8190f112cff56d356f58e07f4.jpg

I've moved on to steering now. I don't think it will be as hard as I originally thought. I think I can keep 3-4" up travel without notching the frame. I got the steering box mocked into position. I need to get some thick wall tubing to make bolt sleeves through the frame.

[KrazyKarl02]

Looks good, you are doing stock low steer right?

[tommy53002]

Looks good, you are doing stock low steer right?

I'm not 100% yet, but looks like I will move the tie rod back down onto the knuckle and keep the drag link on the high steer arm.

[KrazyKarl02]

Looks like its gonna be really tight between the frame and leaf spring.

[tommy53002]

Looks like its gonna be really tight between the frame and leaf spring.

Yeah, there isn't a whole lot of room there. i'm going to mock up the tie rod and drag link with PVC to check clearances. If i can get 3" of up travel on the passenger side, i'll be happy. I may have to notch the frame to get it...

[davido]

Those sliders are slick.

So you run it without shackles, right?

I've not seen this setup before. I like it.

[tommy53002]

Those sliders are slick.

So you run it without shackles, right?

I've not seen this setup before. I like it.

Correct, they take the place of the shackle.

Liquid Iron Industries makes the slider boxes. I'm interested to see how they perform. There isn't a ton of information on the web about them. My buddy runs them on the front of his J20 and likes them.

[robertf03]

Why not go with the more conventional shackle elimination method?

[tommy53002]

Why not go with the more conventional shackle elimination method?

Ha, I'm assuming you are referring to a link suspension. Honestly, I don't have a great answer to that. This started when I found the slider boxes used on pirate for cheap. When I set off to do this, I had in my mind doing a CHEAP swap to make me a little more happy with the jeep until I swap to tons. My only cost on this is the sliders and consumables.

Really though, i'm happy with how it is turning out so far. I'm hoping the new (lower) ride height will get the jeep back into street driving condition. I still have a lot of parts to collect (and money to save) before I make the next leap to tons, so it is going to have to do...

[tommy53002]

Looks like its gonna be really tight between the frame and leaf spring.


Yeah, there isn't a whole lot of room there. i'm going to mock up the tie rod and drag link with PVC to check clearances. If i can get 3" of up travel on the passenger side, i'll be happy. I may have to notch the frame to get it...

The steering box isn't going to work where I had it mocked up. I'm going to move it forward a couple inches and up a couple inches. There is very little room to make it all fit. I may mount the drag link to the tie rod like a Y type steering set up. That would keep the drag from having to route over the passenger side spring, so I could save the up-travel.

Really, I'm going to take a harder look at piecing together full hydro. It sure would make packaging easier.

[tommy53002]

Here is the problem with my original mock up.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160315/16991793fbd1005078b6e7801d3e5914.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160315/c44c3fb61069bb34bab5762a15c27262.jpg
As you can see, the tie rod is about 3" directly under the pitman arm. I'm not sure how I over looked that.

So I think I can get by with moving the tie rod back up to the hi-steer arms and moving the drag link onto the knuckle.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160315/387aa66f5dad621dd361fbf1ed285a8d.jpg

[tommy53002]

Chipping away.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160405/83cf022cf13546b8ad6a057ae8dc1cb7.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160405/a5c2a52ab6ce1cd7ece7372af6eaacb9.jpg

I'll be a bachelor this weekend, so I'm hoping to get a lot done.

[tommy53002]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160411/5ccf2efe552ea0505d313c6169177784.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160411/11d48ef3e77e620fff9c24380a0edea9.jpg
The gear box mount was a bitch but it's finally done and boxed in.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160411/8a4f7ff376004d00084224b0f3e113ce.jpg
The input shaft of the gear box and the radiator want to occupy the same space. I raised the radiator 2" so I have clearance over the box now. New problem is that the lower radiator neck points toward the fan. There is about 1/2" of interference now. I haven't come up with a solution yet.
I am wondering about the possibility of heating up the water neck and bending it some to make it fit... I don't know if that would work or not.

Anyways, I got tired of dealing with the radiator so I moved on to the rear. I got the pinion angle corrected and started on new lower shock mounts. I wish I could keep the mounts above the axle tube but I only had 1/2" of up travel without sticking them through the tub (which I don't want to do right now.). The new mounts give me 4" of shaft showing.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160411/a04aefbe1fc89df25f3f6d012109f4e0.jpg

The todo list is getting shorter.

[tommy53002]

Ordered a new radiator to help make space for the steering gear box (new rad is shorter).
Because of the angle on the lower rad hose outlet, I still have a conflict with the outlet and fan.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160525/9f347c11a9fc816fe7ea9bf28d232c81.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160525/bfabebfeaa4bda0f7325648caa1b6623.jpg
I think If I can recess the rad into the grill shell and change the angle of the outlet, it should all clear. I may swap to an electric fan to help with the issue too.

I finished cutting out the old grill/body mount and built the new mount off of my winch plate. As you can see I had to chop out a lot of the old winch plate. I will add some bracing later.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160525/e23c0c36504d8b0203728571e3d748f1.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160525/d3bf8b0bfdb03e0013f81d0fde71c120.jpg

Some buddies talked me into redoing the lower rear shock mount I just finished. I flexed everything out and have just enough room to outboard the shocks and keep the mount above the axle tube. I might get that done tonight.

[tommy53002]

Things were a little sketchy with the front sitting on jack stands.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160525/ffa0e00e881d0b9b22888a5c34fc18f2.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160525/d7f1a939f9ed0ed444bc6ee31934dead.jpg

Btw, anyone in the Houston area able to weld aluminum? I need to weld mounts onto the radiator and weld the outlet back on.

[KrazyKarl02]

I just put this electric fan on my yj, it's a bad dude and reasonably priced considering it moves 2800 cfm and comes with a built in shroud and thermostat.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Proform/778/67015/10002/-1?parentProductId=752006

Also, I have a spool gun for aluminum if you want to try, the tabs should not be an issue, your radiator outlet might be over my skill.

[tommy53002]

I may take you up on the aluminum welding.

I think i'm going to check the pick a part to try and find a Volvo fan for cheap.

[tommy53002]

I got a little done last night.

Rear shock mounts.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160526/b91d28bb7409e85724e1d02287261a9a.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160526/83cd8d91789dfb0c2aa17e0e9837c294.jpg
The lower mount is just a stud welded to the tube (like I had before) but I'm not really crazy about it... It might get redone later.

[tommy53002]

Not much to update. Tacked the driver side shock mount together.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/6eec900ae7c327cd0db8ae51be7a0360.jpg

I got a smoking deal on some new (used) tools from someone in my neighborhood.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160603/76478da164777c863dc10de41830b894.jpg

I've wanted a portaband for a while. I used it last night to cut out the brackets for the passenger side upper shock mounts.

[85cj7]

These are sweet. I know Cook has one and likes it....

http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Portaband-Tables-Accessories_c_35.html

[tommy53002]

Not much to update.

I got the rear shocks in place. I still need to burn them in but I want to cycle everything first.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160613/9c694762b0ac306aa5c754b923d34a08.jpg

I got my rear bump stops cut down too. I just need to take the springs off and weld the bumps in. That will finish up the rear.

I've been avoiding working on the front because I still haven't decided how to proceed with the fan/rad clearance issues. I'll probably get back to working on it this week.

I'm starting to think about paint (for frame). I'm leaning toward brushing on rustoleum hammered black. I've never used the brush on but I've had good results with the spray on. Thoughts?

[85cj7]

My experience is the same as yours....none with the brush on, just with the spray on. I've had no problems with it.

I used the brush on POR 15 on the frame of the '56. It is a much harder coating than the rustoleum on the jeep. It was also pretty affordable, if I remember correctly, like $50 for two quarts of it.

[Seth]

I have an exam or two we could prob work out a deal on.

[tommy53002]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160909/be0115f12096e33128ed117bdd10df4b.jpg

I grabbed a Volvo fan from the pick n pull so maybe I'll get going on this thing again.

[davido]

I did this on my Cruiser. Mine was bolt on brackets for a 14B. Then I bought the rest from O'Reilly.

It's been a great addition.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-1204-budget-gm-rear-disc-brakes-swap-junkyard-builder/