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96beast
10-08-2010, 05:58 PM
This is where I will document and update any changes made to my '96 Toyota Land Cruiser. Right now its totally stock except for the ARB front bumper and a few electrical mods. The plan is to get a 3-4" lift and throw on 35's when my current 31's go bald. I'd also like to get sliders, skid plate(s), rear bumper, and anything else you guys can think of that I'm missing.

What order should I do the mods? Armor first and then lift/tires or the other way around? Any other ideas?

Here's a pic for reference:

http://i1036.photobucket.com/albums/a443/solo7534/ARBInstalled.jpg

BroncoJo
10-08-2010, 06:15 PM
Tires probably net the biggest increase in off-road performance.


Post some pictures of what you have now. This way in a couple years you can look back and think, where the hell did I go wrong?:gigem:

davido
10-08-2010, 10:37 PM
What kind of MPG do you get with that thing?

96beast
10-09-2010, 12:35 AM
What kind of MPG do you get with that thing?

Right now it gets about 13/15, city/highway. Built up your lucky to get over 10. It loves gas

AggieTJ2007
10-09-2010, 12:45 AM
thats not too bad it is all the I ever saw out of my Wrangler

Same size motor but with less power?

TxCruzr
10-09-2010, 04:03 AM
Cool, 80's are pretty sweet. Yours have the electric lockers? If not, that'd be a good place to start, and then go for the lift/tire and body armor.

If you haven't already, checkout ih8mud.com. Tons of info on cruisers.

Metaltech4x4 has sliders and all that other good stuff. I've wheeled with mark before and he's a super nice guy and he tests the **** out of his stuff.

SleeOffRoad is another 80 specialty place, kinda pricy though.

Can't wait to see what you do with it. My dad is trying to find one for a mild wheeler.

breckboarder55
10-09-2010, 12:25 PM
Sliders first. Than lockers-skids-lift/tires.

robertf03
10-09-2010, 02:22 PM
Sliders, winch, enjoy

96beast
10-10-2010, 03:50 PM
Okay, sliders it is. Now, I can either pick a manufactured product (slee, metaltech, hanna, IPOR, etc) or build my own. From what I've seen sliders are the easiest piece of armor to diy. I could probably find some threads over on ih8mud with measurements and ideas on past designs and it would be substantially cheaper. Would anyone have the tools and expertise to help me out on this? I've worked with wood and glass but have zero experience with metal (cutting/welding). Thoughts?

breckboarder55
10-10-2010, 05:05 PM
I'm sure someone is willing to help you out...

Shaggy
10-10-2010, 07:11 PM
Come to SA and I'll teach you how to weld. That way you get to take credit for building them. I think you need to build all of the "armor" on your rig personally.

KrazyKarl02
10-10-2010, 09:24 PM
Come to SA and I'll teach you how to weld. That way you get to take credit for building them. I think you need to build all of the "armor" on your rig personally.

Yeah, check out his TJ build thread

96beast
10-10-2010, 09:45 PM
Come to SA and I'll teach you how to weld. That way you get to take credit for building them. I think you need to build all of the "armor" on your rig personally.

I may just take you up on that, I'm from san antonio so it wouldn't be a big deal for me to come by some weekend. What area are in?

Shaggy
10-10-2010, 10:06 PM
281 and evans

Sparling
10-10-2010, 11:06 PM
I live at 281 and Evans too. What neighborhood?

robertf03
10-11-2010, 02:16 AM
do most aftermarket sliders mount to the frame? those flares look like they stick out pretty far and to make it look right that might be more than the door sill is up to holding.

Shaggy
10-11-2010, 08:38 AM
pinon creek

96beast
10-11-2010, 10:07 AM
do most aftermarket sliders mount to the frame? those flares look like they stick out pretty far and to make it look right that might be more than the door sill is up to holding.

The stock plastic running boards are attached to the door sill/body and yes, all aftermarket sliders attach to the frame. Everything black in the picture comes off when the running boards are removed. Here's an example of what sliders look like on these rigs... first one I came across.

http://i1036.photobucket.com/albums/a443/solo7534/sliderslexus.jpg

Seth
10-11-2010, 10:38 PM
Tires probably net the biggest increase in off-road performance.

I'd have to disagree, lockers can get you places (and out) with smaller tires.

BroncoJo
10-11-2010, 10:42 PM
I'd have to disagree, lockers can get you places (and out) with smaller tires.

I did not necessarily mean bigger tires, but also something with stronger side-walls and more cut/puncture resistant. Granted front and rear lockers will definitely be a bigger improvement over swapping in same size all terrains.

96beast
11-10-2010, 12:33 PM
So I've got a little bit of cash right now and was wanting to move forward with building some under-body protection.

Check out this thread for various designs: http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/77518-forum-members-sliders.html

And I think these are the best candidates. Solid design, relatively easy to build, and cheap. Also a great write-up on how they were made. http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/133728-my-80-series-slider-build-w-picks.html

What do you guys think? Does anyone have a cutter/tube-bender/welder and would be willing to help me with this? Keep in mind that manufactured or custom fabbed sliders run $800-1000 while the materials to make my own would be about $300 (thats a lot of beer...). The other thing I need is a good skid plate but that should be easier to make and cheaper than the sliders.

Once I get these two things out of the way I'll be figuring out the lift/tires (and maybe rear bumper). I think a reasonable goal is to have this thing rock-ready by TCC. Thoughts?

Sharpe
11-10-2010, 12:53 PM
Do you have any metal fabrication experience?

bcolman
11-10-2010, 02:41 PM
your time table sounds doable, if you can find someone who has the tools in town to help you out

96beast
11-10-2010, 03:50 PM
I have plenty of experience with wood and even glass but never worked with metal. I guess one of the things I'd like some of the more experienced members to answer is whether or not I should even attempt something like this with zero experience or if I should just save and go with a proven bolt on option. I'd definitely be willing to learn if anybody was willing to help. For the sliders the hardest part will definitely be measuring and making sure they mate up right, especially around the cats.

colman
11-10-2010, 04:08 PM
do it your self. the only way to learn is to do it yourself. i'm shure if you provide enough lubrication (ky or beer depending on which resident). the dexter people will be able to find some time to help you.... I always enjoy offering other peoples time.

Sparling
11-10-2010, 06:28 PM
do it your self. the only way to learn is to do it yourself. i'm shure if you provide enough lubrication (ky or beer depending on which resident). the dexter people will be able to find some time to help you.... I always enjoy offering other peoples time.

You can leave out the ky, tommy isn't technically a resident.

DRAGOONRANCH
11-10-2010, 11:33 PM
for the 500 bones difference, find you a good 110 stick welder on CL, a HF angle grinder w/ some (dewalt) cut off and grinding wheels and pay someone to cut out the plate for you. Not only will you get experience, you will have some tools to boot.

Shaggy
11-11-2010, 10:24 AM
build it yourself. shouldnt take but a weekend

breckboarder55
11-11-2010, 10:41 AM
for the 500 bones difference, find you a good 110 stick welder on CL, a HF angle grinder w/ some (dewalt) cut off and grinding wheels and pay someone to cut out the plate for you. Not only will you get experience, you will have some tools to boot.

Don't forget that the average student does not have a garage, a place to keep tools, or an extra $500 to throw around.

But I get your point, and if I had a place to keep/hook up a welder I would purchase one.

96beast
11-11-2010, 11:24 AM
Don't forget that the average student does not have a garage, a place to keep tools, or an extra $500 to throw around.

But I get your point, and if I had a place to keep/hook up a welder I would purchase one.

This is what I was just going to say. I really like the idea of investing in that equipment but I don't have a garage or work place or even room at my place to store that kind of stuff. I'm also a senior and will be relocating after I graduate this May so I'd like to keep the amount of stuff I move to a minimum before I settle in somewhere else.

breckboarder55
11-11-2010, 12:06 PM
This is what I was just going to say. I really like the idea of investing in that equipment but I don't have a garage or work place or even room at my place to store that kind of stuff. I'm also a senior and will be relocating after I graduate this May so I'd like to keep the amount of stuff I move to a minimum before I settle in somewhere else.

For now I would say get a hold of the materials you'll need, and I am sure that someone (At Dexter, or Travis, Colmans, Etc.). Will be willing to help you out sometime.

colman
11-11-2010, 04:26 PM
I would offer my help but i live in houston now and brian is in an appt. so I'm more available for making fun of designs and saying that won't work :flipoff2:

BroncoJo
11-11-2010, 04:44 PM
I could probably help after the winter break

breckboarder55
11-12-2010, 07:53 PM
If you plan on wheeling at Clayton, you should really try and get the sliders done. (or buy some)

96beast
11-12-2010, 10:47 PM
Where is a good/cheap place to buy steel around here? I just saw a commercial for mack's bolt and steel... Any good?

stx4wheeler
11-13-2010, 01:00 AM
Mack bolt and steel is good I would go with them.

DRAGOONRANCH
11-13-2010, 01:25 AM
Tommy/Courtney, go see if you can get a club discount set up w/ Mack and see if they what DOM they have in/can stock. :gigem:

breckboarder55
11-13-2010, 06:03 PM
Mack Bolt and Steel is pretty good, they are off of highway 21, east of 6.

robertf03
11-13-2010, 06:50 PM
do you have a design yet?

JB
11-13-2010, 11:31 PM
Custom Fab on 2818 past the Hall

JB
11-13-2010, 11:32 PM
Tommy/Courtney, go see if you can get a club discount set up w/ Mack and see if they what DOM they have in/can stock. :gigem:

Doubtful this will happen. Have you ever heard the John Cox story regarding Mack Bolt?

85cj7
11-14-2010, 01:32 AM
Custom Fab on 2818 past the Hall

I'm with JB. F*ck Mack. Custom Fab will cut and sell any size that you want, where Mack will insist on a stick or buying a section of whatever they have left. Also I went to Custom Fab needing about 18x18" of 3/16" and they just gave it to me from out of there drop.

96beast
11-14-2010, 04:38 AM
Right now I'm thinking I'm going to buy this "generic" kit with their 80 series frame brackets and then just fab up my own outriggers to the frame: http://4xinnovations.com/p-RS08.html should be about 2-300 bucks shipped to my door. i also just remembered another reason manufactured sliders would be a waste of money is I replaced my stock dual cats with a single magnaflow cat, so the cat protection that comes with most manufactured sliders would get in the way.

Another tech question: do you guys think all 1/8" DOM tube will be enough to hold up my rig on the rocks or should I go with something thicker under the rockers (like 3/16" thickwall tube)?

robertf03
11-14-2010, 05:00 PM
use rectangular for the outriggers, not round, and 1/8" might be enough. Depends how many you have. Dropping a vehicle on a rock is not the same as lifting it with a forklift.

For the round, DOM isn't necessary. save your money and buy the cheaper tube.

Bring it by sometime during the week and I'll look at it and give you my amateur opinion. Not Tuesdays though, thats trivia night.

RCcola55
11-14-2010, 07:10 PM
I'm with JB. F*ck Mack. Custom Fab will cut and sell any size that you want, where Mack will insist on a stick or buying a section of whatever they have left. Also I went to Custom Fab needing about 18x18" of 3/16" and they just gave it to me from out of there drop.

ya and custom fab is twice the price. Mac is the best place to go when you need more then a foot of anything and have always cut me whatever i have needed, just dont go in there acting like a hardass or a knowitall and you wont have and issue. Usually if you go in there and bull**** with Jake (the guy with the baird) about trucks and jeeps he will cut you a pretty good deal. As for DOM they usually wont make an order, due to their cost being high and people bailing on the order, they do however usually have a small stock of HREW at a very reasonable price.

85cj7
11-14-2010, 07:12 PM
ya and custom fab is twice the price. Mac is the best place to go when you need more then a foot of anything and have always cut me whatever i have needed, just dont go in there acting like a hardass or a knowitall and you wont have and issue. Usually if you go in there and bull**** with Jake (the guy with the baird) about trucks and jeeps he will cut you a pretty good deal. As for DOM they usually wont make an order, due to their cost being high and people bailing on the order, they do however usually have a small stock of HREW at a very reasonable price.

Opinions are like a$$ holes. . . .

96beast
11-14-2010, 07:19 PM
What do you guys think of this design? Looks like a little overkill.... I'd like to keep them as light as possible considering my front bumper weighs over 200 lbs.

http://george4wd.taskled.com/sliderd.html

http://george4wd.taskled.com/sliderf.html

RCcola55
11-14-2010, 07:22 PM
Opinions are like a$$ holes. . . .

or the fact that i deal with each one on a weekly basis....:rolleyes:

85cj7
11-14-2010, 07:50 PM
or the fact that i deal with each one on a weekly basis....:rolleyes:

Both opinions and a$$holes? Busy man! :flipoff2:

Sharpe
11-14-2010, 09:03 PM
or the fact that i deal with each one on a weekly basis....:rolleyes:

What do you know?!?! Seacrest has bought steel new like twice, he's practically an expert.

DRAGOONRANCH
11-14-2010, 10:28 PM
Opinions are like my a$$ hole, wide and gaping. . . .

:flipoff2:

tommy53002
11-14-2010, 11:39 PM
What do you guys think of this design? Looks like a little overkill.... I'd like to keep them as light as possible considering my front bumper weighs over 200 lbs.

http://george4wd.taskled.com/sliderd.html

http://george4wd.taskled.com/sliderf.html

I would not call that overkill. I have no idea if the "bolt on" design is typical of aftermarket sliders but I would personally prefer welding them to the frame (which you could easily do using those sliders) I just would not trust the bolts alone. Overall they look decent to me. One thing I did not like was the cat protection looked like a giant rock anchor but since you already moved your exhaust, you could get rid of that part anyways.

My .02, if you are interested in learning to fab stuff, sliders would be an easy (simple) place to start.

breckboarder55
11-15-2010, 12:21 AM
I would not call that overkill. I have no idea if the "bolt on" design is typical of aftermarket sliders but I would personally prefer welding them to the frame (which you could easily do using those sliders) I just would not trust the bolts alone.

I'm not a fab expert by any means, but I don't like the idea of those sliders bolting on either.

DRAGOONRANCH
11-15-2010, 12:47 AM
Yep, the bolt that runs under the frame doesn't look right at all. Looks like a well thought out design for the most part though.

96beast
11-15-2010, 01:05 AM
The u-bolts are the most common way these are mounted but plenty have welded onto the frame too. I've never heard of anybody breaking the bolts. I'll be shopping around in the coming weeks and will finalize my design based on the prices.

Sharpe
11-15-2010, 01:13 AM
Breaking the bolts isnt as much of an issue as the inevitable give that is inherent with that design. Everything will wiggle enough that when you drop the rocker on something hard, the slider will bend enough to hit the body. Cook's sliders used to be like this until he tied them into his cage to reinforce em.

96beast
11-15-2010, 02:44 PM
Eh, some movement would be fine, just need to prevent this from happening:

http://i1036.photobucket.com/albums/a443/solo7534/Brokenrockerpanel.jpg

breckboarder55
11-15-2010, 02:52 PM
Is there any reason for you to not drill holes and run the bolts through the frame?

robertf03
11-15-2010, 04:09 PM
so colorful

96beast
11-15-2010, 04:37 PM
Sweet.... what does it mean? Red=weak?

And what kind of unit is a "ul"?

bcolman
11-15-2010, 04:42 PM
how much load did you put on this flem?

robertf03
11-15-2010, 04:57 PM
how much load did you put on this flem?

12000lb. I figure thats around a 6000lb vehicle being dropped 1 ft.

robertf03
11-15-2010, 04:59 PM
Sweet.... what does it mean? Red=weak?

And what kind of unit is a "ul"?

unitless, its a ratio.

FJAggie07
11-15-2010, 05:04 PM
Don't let these naysayers talk you out of a good bolt on slider. Just use grade 8 or 10.9 Hardware and you will be fine. Judging by most of these fawkers weld jobs I would trust a bolt any day to their penetration...:rainbow:

robertf03
11-15-2010, 05:06 PM
agreed. I wouldn't weld to the frame of any modern vehicle unless its for suspension or repair. I'll define modern as any body style that was offered with obd2.

they are getting sneaky with materials and heat treatment

bcolman
11-15-2010, 05:19 PM
that is just dirty

Seth
11-16-2010, 11:06 PM
I also would not weld to that truck.

DRAGOONRANCH
11-16-2010, 11:24 PM
I also would not weld to that truck.

Pussie....

Your shirt is at dexter house. (mutt)