The YJ

[cj nut]

So I guess I can start a build thread for the YJ. As most of you know it has
-SBC TBI fuel injection
-XJ reasprings, with a extra XJ main
-bastardized front sprigs
-Sm465/Dana 300
-14 bolt 4.88s welded/ dana 44 (yes I know it sucks but their cheap) 4.88s open
-semi worn out 42s on H1's
etc. yes Its just another YJ running basic chevy crap, but hey it works and I can afford it

Anyways so I have been redoing the suspension, I lowered the rear about 1.75" and moved the front axle forward roughly 3-4", dropped the front roughly 3". In the process of all this I also did a shackle reversal. Which leads me to my question. What is a good frame to ground height for a yj running 42's or 40's? Eventually I want to have 60 front and have decent tires, But I have to wait for the money to get right. The wheel base is roughly 109" If I remember right. I also plan on taking a 1" or 2" from the body lift off, I want to retain at least 1" to clear the motor and all. I have the motor stuffed pretty close to the body, So I would have to do some major body hackin' if I took all 3" off and the tires would barley clear. So what are yalls thoughts?

[colman]

put a cj grill on it.... real jeeps have round headlights

[MR.ZAP]

put a cj grill on it.... real jeeps have round headlights

This is a valid point...

[cj nut]

I will put my round headlights against both of yalls any day. Colman, you have no room to talk you havn't wheeled your jeep in over a year, It barely runs and is not drivable.

[robertf03]

will the cj grill keep the radiator from falling out?

[cj nut]

no but the new fancy radiator frame/mount I made will, I should never have a problem with that again....

[MR.ZAP]

I will put my round headlights against both of yalls any day. Colman, you have no room to talk you havn't wheeled your jeep in over a year, It barely runs and is not drivable.

You have square ones :confused:

[eight]

I would not worry about going through extra work to have the jeep extra low. With your axle and wheel setup the jeep is plenty stable, ground clearance is a good thing. It didn't look overly high at Clayton. Since you've dropped it 2-3" it should be good where it is. Of course remove as much of the body lift as possible. With that gone, it should have a pretty low and stable look.

Make sure you have enough driveshaft travel on the front, #1 mistake people make with shackle reversal. Now the axle moves the wrong way. A standard length slip will not be enough, so you have to shell out the big bucks or build a square shaft.

[85cj7]

I've read build ups with frame heights at 23-24" with 40"s but they were running linked suspensions and full hydro. Make sure that after you lowered it you now don't have clearance problems with the drag link/tie rod and frame on full compression (I do not know your steering, do you have high steer?). If you do you will have to notch the frame a bit. What do your steering angles look like with the front pushed forward that far? Are you running the stock box? I am pushing mine forward 1.5" and am going to have to move the box forward a corresponding distance, not sure if this is a problem on yj frames, but I have seen plenty of builds with people pushing them forward. Do you have hydro-assist?

[Sharpe]

You have square ones :confused:

Shh...he doesnt know the difference.

[eight]

I have my front pushed forward 3" and never moved the box. Only worked because of drag link high and tie rod down low.

[colman]

he is full hydro

[cj nut]

I'm full hydro, I just realized that length on the slip yoke will be a problem... I flexed it out one some old tires and a piece of c-channel, But I can say that idea didn't turn out as well as I had hoped. Leaving me with a 20ft piece of bent c-channel. I think if I shorten the slip yoke up more it should be "ok" I don't have much up travel so its a thought. guess that will come in the next few days.

[Busa]

My YJ has 1in springs 1in body lift 40s with about a 23in belly.

[cj nut]

Thats about wear my bumpers are now, but I think I may change my from spring mounts up a bit.

[Busa]

23 is at the frame skid plate area. I dont know what the bumpers area.

[cj nut]

I amagine my belly would be lower the frame comes up to clear the axles, but I don't know if the rear frame comes as low as the belly does though. My bumpers are similar to yours so I'm probably close to what your jeep is.

[Busa]

The front of is very tight. At full compression I only have about a 1/4" between the ram and radiator. I have full hydro with a DE ram high using high steer arms. I added the bump stop so the ram would not touch the frame or radiator.

You will need a long travel drive shaft. I have about 2in of splines out at ride high but there is about 10in inside the shaft. When you are climbing something the front axle want to pull itself out from under the jeep. Austins has tried to make a stock driveshaft work and it always came apart. Flexing it on a ramp you will not see all the travel it needs. This is only on a shackle revers setup.

Here is a picture of mine flex. I will try to get some pictures tonight at ride height and full compressed.

[cj nut]

How much up travel do you have? I'm running stock steering tie-rod, just sleeved with cromoly tube and my ram it behind it. It looks like my front will clear fine as of now, my bumb stops wont let my axle come up more than a couple inches.

[cj nut]

also, kinda a crazy idea but.... has any one ever tried using parts from a tractor implement driveline to make a dshast? ie. brush hog

[TdmayfieldIV]

It would be a hit at Alto.

[KrazyKarl02]

also, kinda a crazy idea but.... has any one ever tried using parts from a tractor implement driveline to make a dshast? ie. brush hog

I have seen people use it, I don't think it is as strong as normal driveshaft slip tube or square tube.

[AggieTJ2007]

you can get the same parts that High Angle uses for a long travel driveline at napa but the splined shaft is almost $100 a foot

[colman]

belly does not equal bumper, what is your belly

[KrazyKarl02]

you can get the same parts that High Angle uses for a long travel driveline at napa but the splined shaft is almost $100 a foot

part number? What do you ask for?

[mudtoy67]

Here's another option that people on PBB have been using for splined shaft:

http://www.grobinc.com/coldrolled/std_spline_shafts.htm#

I think Sharpe built a driveshaft using this stuff.

Here's the discussion:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=756706

[mudtoy67]

Actually, looks like he was just looking at it, not sure if he did.


Question for you engineering types. Since I dont know what normal driveshafts are made out of, do yall think the 1.25" OD male splined stock made out of 1117 cold rolled mild steel will handle front driveshaft duties on Pigpen? Here's the link to the vendor, the part number is 1187-20-2.

http://www.grobinc.com/coldrolled/std_spline_shafts.htm#

I'm trying to kludge together a long slip front shaft that isnt square tube and this is the only supplier of raw spline stock I have found. Thanks

Looks like Creighton was holding out on the p/n's back then too.:flipoff2:


link or part numbers?


Sharpe I am sure you can get the splined stock at BVD. But they will probably want an arm and a leg.

no but I could get it. Unfortunately it only comes in 3ft sections at $100 a ft.

[Sharpe]

I never got around to it. still rocking the square tube

[eight]

I would imagine if you can find the 1.5" splined shaft it would be enough, bigger than the spline on most drive shafts. I know the one I twisted off at Clayton was less than 1.5", and it did run for a good amount of years. I would just use the square tube, no matter what you build will shake because it isn't exactly straight or balanced. You can get an 18" piece of receiver hitch tube at Harbor Freight, using this should take some rattle and vibration out, tighter fit than 2.5" x 2.5" x 3/16" tube.

[Sterling]

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=799055&page=20

[mudtoy67]

Interesting find...

My first thought was that's just as expensive as the spline stuff, but note, the length on these is 5 ft each. Still, square tube is a lot cheaper...



Part Details

Part Number: PM600-7961
Part Price: 152.53 USD
On Hand: 0 Check Other Stores
Description: TUBE, OUTER

All Makes Parts from John Deere Where Used

English Metric

Specification
Weight 19.09 LBS 8.66 Kg
Tube Outside Diameter 2.402 IN
Wall Thickness 0.095 IN
Effective Length 59.055 IN
End Type RMM39
End Type RMM39
Material
Finish
Note S


Part Details

Part Number: PM600-7071
Part Price: 219.18 USD
On Hand: 0 Check Other Stores
Description: OUTER PROFILE TUBE

All Makes Parts from John Deere Where Used

English Metric

Specification
Weight 0.00 LBS 0.00 Kg
Tube Outside Diameter 2.795 IN
Wall Thickness 0.197 IN
Effective Length 59.055 IN
End Type RMM39
End Type RMM39
Material STEEL
Finish
Note S

[cj nut]

I was at TSC today, they had hallow square tube drivelines, and the "weld in" sleeve that matches it, the square tube was roughly 1.5 OD and maybe 3/16 thick?.... The downfall is the yoke on the tube is the wrong size for my u-joint. So I could use the weld in sleeve which use's the 1.5" tube (welds to a round tube roughly 2" ID) and just get the square tube from Mac Bolt and Steel or someone.... Eight, is the hitch your talking about the adapter or something?

[sasquatch]

run 2" .250 on 2.5" .250. just grind a notch for the seam.

[cj nut]

I love having a barn full of random tractor parts, I just found a drive-line that will work.

[colman]

i have a stick of the large diamiter thick tube for the dshaft if you wana do square, its at my ranch

[eight]

1.5" square tube will twist. The only tractor PTO shaft I've seen that would work is on a round baler, and that's about a $800 dual CV shaft. 540 PTO is only good for 50hp.

Don't need to grind a notch for the seam if you use the receiver tube.

http://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-long-2-inch-standard-receiver-tube-97093.html

[cj nut]

I'm just about done with my creation, The drive-line I found is either off of our round baler or brush-hog. Either way we run them with a kubota M9000 and the brush-hog is ran all over crap. The drive-line is thicker than 1.5 if I remember right and if anything it will make a good spare. I'm kinda curious if it will work, which means I will probably run it till it breaks. I am still open up front and the d-shafts I made from 1.5 HREW have held up fine, Maybe this will hold up also.... either way I'm using my old front as a spare. I will try to upload some pictures of it tomorrow.

[cj nut]

Colman, Is the square tube you have off the blazer?

[colman]

no i got it from aaron but it is the same material

[cj nut]

how big is it?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

how big is it?

That's what she said!

[colman]

so i bought this friday night.... step one. remove 3" body lift, step 2 new tires(maybe), step three load on trailer for next wheeling event. I do have 40's in the garage that are not being used at the moment...

[colman]

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10101841963312634&set=a.10100435505310744.3174229.8311278&type=1&ref=nf

[Sparling]

Sweet Jesus please do something with the front diff. This thing would work so much better locked up front. If you end up selling the 8 lug 44 let me know.

[colman]

That is down the road. Gonna leave it mostly alone for a while.

[JB]

That YJ impressed me with what it did at Clayton in 2010 with a baby open front axle. Its really not all that far off. What motor did it have in it? I think it had a 5.3 at one time many years ago.

[colman]

it had a 5.3 when craig had it, now it has a tbi 350

[Hot Pocket]

Gonna disagree with you sparling, for what this jeep is, it's really impressed me with how capable it is.... or maybe that's just corey's driver skillz.. guess we will see how colman does with it :flipoff2:

[Sparling]

It doesn't suck by any means, it just fell on its face every time it tried to crawl over something. A locked front would just make it so much better.

[colman]

and i forgot to mention that I have a d300 with a 4:1 that is going in it..... gearing is always nice.

[eight]

Original post says it had H1 wheels. Did he change that to some regular 16.5s? I thought I remember it being on aluminum 16.5s and having too much air in the tires. You need to run the 42s at 4-6 psi to make them flex well. Find some sort of double bead locks or wheels like mine for it.

[colman]

it has recentered h1's, didn't originally but he put those on about 1.5 yrs ago.

[sasquatch]

It doesn't suck by any means, it just fell on its face every time it tried to crawl over something.

it got owned in the 8 point hill climb race of 2011.

[colman]

i'm willing to bet open front end, gearing and bald tires all helped with that. all things i will attend to. the locker later as that will require a front end swap....

[colman]

its gonna be nice to get 65% better gearing with about an hours worth of work...

[sam_hodnett]

it got owned in the 8 point hill climb race of 2011.

By your truck and a Scout! :gigem:

[colman]

O yea, and it needs round headlingts. Real jeeps have round headlights.

[jasonjuch]

By your truck and a Scout! :gigem:

don't forget the tree