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KrazyKarl02
03-01-2013, 11:55 PM
Earlier this week I picked up the newest version of the Klogger, Klogger Version 3.0. It's a bit of a change from previous renditions. I was tired of wheeling fool size and while I have never been a jeep fan, the fact is the bodies lend themselves to this hobby and there are a billion mods that are well documented. So here's the specs:

1993 Jeep Wrangler YJ
Engine - Chevy 350 with TBI injection, giant alternator, some sort of "welder" setup on alternator, Advance Adapters headers
Transmission - SM465, Advance Adapters hydraulic clutch setup
Transfer Case - Dana 300, twin sticked
Front Axle - Dana 44 with 4.88 gears, full hydro steering, tractor supply ram
Rear Axle - 14 Bolt, 4.88's, disc brakes
Suspension: Front - Wagoneer Leafs, Rear - XJ Leafs
Cage: Stock Jeep "Family Cage" with bars welded inbetween, plates to body, frame plates on the other side with spring bushings to isolate
Tires: Bald 42" TSL on re-centered H1's
Other info: 3" body lift, older racing seats, stock gas tank relocated to back seat, Afco radiator, electric fan, oh and it was Colemans, before that Cory's19416

KrazyKarl02
03-01-2013, 11:56 PM
Plan:
Cut original Klogger up into little pieces, sell 351, NP435, extra cab, doors, anything else
Sell 44 and 14 bolt, put Klogger Sterling and Dana 60 (5.13's, rear welded, front locked, front chromo's) in YJ
Put Klogger Doubler in YJ, will have to change the input shaft on the 203, but other than that it should bolt up
Remove 3" body lift
Put Klogger 42's on re-centered H1's, sell bald 42's and trail ready bead locks
Utilize patrol fuel cell to sink rear tank in back making room for either rear seat or tool/cooler storage
Install CB, Radio, clean up, etc...

MR.ZAP
03-02-2013, 12:23 AM
Nice!!!

davido
03-02-2013, 12:33 AM
Bed?

If not, where will I setup shop to drink and watch redneckaires in Alto?


Congrats BTW. That's going to give you a lot less issues I think.

TdmayfieldIV
03-02-2013, 03:09 AM
I need some tsls. Pm me

bcolman
03-02-2013, 03:45 AM
you did not want the irok's?

sam_hodnett
03-02-2013, 04:04 PM
So you bought Corey's yj? You might want to look into that motor, I think it was severely overheated in Clayton 2 years ago

MR.ZAP
03-02-2013, 04:15 PM
So you bought Corey's yj? You might want to look into that motor, I think it was severely overheated in Clayton 2 years ago

Woah Sam, it has a Chevy 350 in it aren't those things supposed to be bulletproof?!?!

Sparling
03-02-2013, 04:49 PM
Woah Sam, it has a Chevy 350 in it aren't those things supposed to be bulletproof?!?!

ask jeff

MR.ZAP
03-02-2013, 05:02 PM
ask jeff

Valid point... hahaha

Hot Pocket
03-02-2013, 08:43 PM
What do you want for the axles

AggieTJ2007
03-02-2013, 09:19 PM
What do you want for the axles

I would assume he wants money

KrazyKarl02
03-04-2013, 01:51 PM
What do you want for the axles

The drop is on the pass side, Wrong side for you.

colman
03-04-2013, 11:44 PM
but he could use the 8 lug outers and re gear his d44

KrazyKarl02
07-31-2014, 11:31 AM
Update - So I wheeled this thing at Down South, Marble Falls, Alto, Hot Springs, the deer lease, etc... Had a good time with it, but the motor kept smoking more and more and the open front sucked. Finally at Alto I broke a tooth off the ring gear. So I've been working on a re-vamp. Here is a short list of the plans which are similar to the original plans, just evolved:

Crate Motor TBI 350 - Installed mechanically, I picked this up off of the list complete with about 5k miles on it with a brand new wiring harness, computer, fuel pump, etc...
TH350 Trans - Got it with the TBI350, it was 2WD, I had the shaft swapped and thru a rebuild kit in it. I have a Lokar shifter I am going to use
Atlas 5:1 Transfer Case - I was going to use my doubler, but it ended up being too long for the wheel base
Klogger Axles - Ford Dana 60 front, Sterling Rear, 5.13 gears, chromo shafts, drive slugs, hydraulic steering
Springs - Same XJ rear springs with 1" lift. Front I am going to pull the wagoneer leafs and put Chevy 52's up front. The waggy leafs ride too rough for me. This means modifying the front cross member.
Others - Clean the wiring up, put my Warn 12k winch on it, new seats, new dash/gauges, and of course A/C

KrazyKarl02
07-31-2014, 11:39 AM
Pictures of cross members... Both cross members are made from 1.75" 0.120 HREW. The front one goes to the atlas adapter between the t-case and trans. Nothing to exciting, bushings on the end and bolted to the atlas adapter.

The rear I got a touch creative, not Schubring creative, but still creative for me... The cross member hard mounts to the frame with a "pocket" set up, the frame pocket is 2.5" square tube cut at a 45 with a nut welded to the top. The cross member side is 2" square tube welded to the 1.75" HREW. I wanted it hardmounted so I could use it for my anti-wrap bar without the force from the anti-wrap bar carrying into the t-case. I bent drivers side so it goes down and then runs at the same angle as the Atlas T-case, and finally ends on the passeger side frame rail. The actual t-case bolts to a piece of 2x2x1/4 angle with a spring bushing. My theory is the first cross member will take most of the rotating load due to the bushings being further out. The bushing by the atlas will apply much less load and when the vehicle is sitting stationary it is just kind of hanging out. I put tabs on the back that are level with the ground for a bushing for the anti-wrap bar. Exhaust is going to be tight, but there is space.

KrazyKarl02
07-31-2014, 11:40 AM
For the skid plate I bought a Barnes 4WD pre-made plate. Honestly for the price it was just a little more than if I had made it and it is probably nicer than what I would have made. The Skid is a 2" Drop plate, which is about 1.5" less drop than a stock YJ skid plate has and about 1" less than the Dana300 setup that the jeep had. It will not fully cover the trans, but I think I might just get a cast trans pan to protect this. I originally wanted to flat belly the jeep, but I ran into 2 problems. 1) In the pictures shown above the Jeep has a 1" Body Lift, the Atlas ia about 1/4" from touching on the drivers top side and similar in clearance on the Atlas shifters, so significant modification would need to be done to the floor. 2) If I went any higher with the t-case I would need to also lift the engine up about an 1.5", which means redoing motor mounts, etc... I think it will be fine with this belly and I'm happy with it.

bcolman
07-31-2014, 12:27 PM
do you think you will have any issues with the bushings being in different orientations? (perpendicular to drive train vs. parallel)

KrazyKarl02
07-31-2014, 02:10 PM
I mind Karl'ed that one, but if you google the TMR or Genright Atlas mount it is the same way, and it's on the internet, so it has to be ok....

I think of it like this, some people do not run a support on the end of an atlas or a 205 (some people also crack transmissions in half). For every 1 degree the trans/t-case rotates the bushings on the trans cross member have to deflect about 12 times more than the one on the t-case. Additionally the because it is moving more and on a 1' lever it ends up applying a lot more of a moment back to the transmission. If the t-cas bushing was 1' away from the center line and oriented different I would be worried, but in my mind, all that bushing is really doing is hanging out and taking a little bit of force off of the trans adapter up and down, it's not really preventing rotation.

If you do the google you can see several of these Atlas adapters that have cracked, Paul (From Crosby with green and grey YJ) cracked one. Each rig is different and it is hard to say if they crack because they are behind a 6000 hp motor or if when the builder made **** he had it out align. I figured a little support on the back had to help.

However, stick around in 6 months you might see me ripping this out because I ripped the damn adapter in half...

KrazyKarl02
09-19-2014, 07:02 PM
Update photos. To fit my Dana 60 under this jeep, the leaf spring perches have to be moved 3" wider. I have a late 80's Ferd Dana 60 and the spring perches are wider than a 1979 Ferd or any of the Dodge/Chevy axles. Unfortunately the existing front bumper did not accomodate for this and the front frame was really a mess, so we cut it off. You can see here the cross tube that somone had hacked up and just the random f'd up-ness of the frame. In addition the front bumper was pretty thin, you could dent it very easily with a hammer, or in times past, an oak tree...

KrazyKarl02
09-19-2014, 07:04 PM
I had some 2"X4" 0.250" wall tube, The stock frame ID is 2"X4.25", with this dimension we could cut the bottom part of the frame off and slide the new tube several inches into the old frame. I drilled a hole on each side of the old frame where I could also plug weld the piece in. Then we cut a front bumper wide enough for my 60's perches. I got the d-ring mounts from some olace online, they are 1" thick and go thru the entire bumper, so they are welded on the front and back (essentially you will have to rip the bumper off before these pull out, even with a side load because they are physically in the bumper). I picked the winch plate up from Barnes 4WD for $43, I have no idea how they can make and sell it for $43....

davido
09-19-2014, 08:02 PM
Lose money on every one, but make it up in volume. :)

colman
09-19-2014, 09:31 PM
looks like a flame cut part and two bends.. about 2 bux per bend then maybe 25 in steel and table time..... if you make them in large quantity

CheapJeep
01-11-2015, 10:50 PM
Went by Karl's to drop off his new front springs and lend a hand.

Took some pics...

Note the use of hand drill and unibit next to drill press and full index of bits....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/TAMOR%20Builds/20150111_162228_zps2e9fa235.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/blink05/media/TAMOR%20Builds/20150111_162228_zps2e9fa235.jpg.html)


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/TAMOR%20Builds/20150111_162035_zpsc2e0a65e.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/blink05/media/TAMOR%20Builds/20150111_162035_zpsc2e0a65e.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/TAMOR%20Builds/20150111_162047_zpsa79aa093.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/blink05/media/TAMOR%20Builds/20150111_162047_zpsa79aa093.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/TAMOR%20Builds/20150111_162103_zpsc5e288b7.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/blink05/media/TAMOR%20Builds/20150111_162103_zpsc5e288b7.jpg.html)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/TAMOR%20Builds/20150111_165829_zps07666d28.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/blink05/media/TAMOR%20Builds/20150111_165829_zps07666d28.jpg.html)

JB
01-12-2015, 07:17 PM
Looks good

tommy53002
06-10-2015, 11:12 AM
This thing done yet?

Graystroke
06-11-2015, 09:33 AM
Earlier this week I picked up the newest version of the Klogger, Klogger Version 3.0. It's a bit of a change from previous renditions. I was tired of wheeling fool size and while I have never been a jeep fan, the fact is the bodies lend themselves to this hobby and there are a billion mods that are well documented. So here's the specs:

1993 Jeep Wrangler YJ
Engine - Chevy 350 with TBI injection, giant alternator, some sort of "welder" setup on alternator, Advance Adapters headers
Transmission - SM465, Advance Adapters hydraulic clutch setup
Transfer Case - Dana 300, twin sticked
Front Axle - Dana 44 with 4.88 gears, full hydro steering, tractor supply ram
Rear Axle - 14 Bolt, 4.88's, disc brakes
Suspension: Front - Wagoneer Leafs, Rear - XJ Leafs
Cage: Stock Jeep "Family Cage" with bars welded inbetween, plates to body, frame plates on the other side with spring bushings to isolate
Tires: Bald 42" TSL on re-centered H1's
Other info: 3" body lift, older racing seats, stock gas tank relocated to back seat, Afco radiator, electric fan, oh and it was Colemans, before that Cory's19416



This will never work.

KrazyKarl02
06-11-2015, 01:52 PM
This will never work.

Please explain you board lurking troll..


This thing done yet?

Short answer no, lots of **** going on. Got the axles in, engine in, need to do plumbing and wiring.

Graystroke
06-11-2015, 08:39 PM
Please explain you board lurking troll..




No explanation needed. See v1.0 and v2.0 for reference:flipoff2:

KrazyKarl02
06-12-2015, 07:09 AM
No explanation needed. See v1.0 and v2.0 for reference:flipoff2:

How's that pile in your avatar doing? Are the tires dry rotted yet? Do they let you park that at the senior center you old bastard?

jerryg79
06-12-2015, 10:12 AM
Damn, grandpa grayson trolling facebook and tamor yesterday!

They must've got wi-fi at the local luby's!

Graystroke
06-13-2015, 12:08 AM
Damn, grandpa grayson trolling facebook and tamor yesterday!

They must've got wi-fi at the local luby's!

No, actually the 3G was humming right along on my flip phone.

KrazyKarl02
10-06-2015, 04:34 PM
Quick Update, got the YJ running, here are some crappy pictures. Front Leaf Spring mounts had to be moved to just outside of the frame to match my dana 60 perches. The front is pretty basic, I gusset'd it to the frame. Rear I used a mount with 4 holes so as the spring sags I can adjust or I can play with shackle angle. I gusseted this one to the frame like the front also.

Front Front mount with gusset

19697

Welded out

19698

Front Rear Mount

19699

KrazyKarl02
10-06-2015, 04:36 PM
I got the atlas shifters installed and put in a B&M Mega shifter for the TH350. I'm still not sure if I like the shifter, but I'll give it a try. The drivers drop atlas makes driver's side a little tight, but it's not too bad.

KrazyKarl02
10-06-2015, 04:38 PM
I took it to Hot Springs last weekend and got the jeep back out on the trail. All in all considering it was it's first time out and we were following buggies with 43" sticky's I think I kept up ok....

19702

Couple of issues I need to work out:

1) The throttle is pretty miserable. I bought a universal throttle kit from auto zone, I think it is a piece of ****. The pedal without a cable is not bad. The throttle body is not bad, but the cable makes it stiff as ****. I think I am going to order a stock 1994 truck throttle cable and adapt it. The issue is where the stock chevy 350 cable connects to where the jeep hole in the firewall is requires you to bend the cable 90 degrees twice in a very short space.
2) Rear shocks, I had not put any on, I wanted to see what clearance I had when the jeep was flexing and I ran out of time. I found a spot to put them. You guys have an opinion on shock brand?
3)Front springs, I bent both front springs. they are rancho 44044's (according to pirate the best spring ever made....) The springs from rancho have like an "add-a-leaf" with a half military wrap under the main leaf. These springs sell for under $200 for a set. I ordered another set and I am going to take them to Heitman's in Houston. I am going to take out the add-a-leaf it comes with and have Heitman's make a true military wrap second leaf. I am hoping this will prevent the main leaf from acting alone. I called Alcan and they want $550 for a set of springs plus shipping. Also I think my shackle angle was too flat, this allowed the spring in full compression to be in a bind. I am going to move the shackle point back to the next hole. I am hoping these changes will prevent the problem from happening again. Picture below of bent leaf springs.

19703

And one Mall Crawler shot, at current setup with bent spring, I can stuff the spring all the way up in the front to where it touches the front fender. Rear end only has a few inches of up travel, but a lot of droop.

19704

tommy53002
10-07-2015, 03:39 PM
Good to see you got it on the trail!

I'm running bilstien shocks and don't have any complaints.

While i'm sure having a true military wrap will help solve your spring bending issue, I think just adding a spring clamp closer to the end of the spring would accomplish the same thing. I did it with mine. I just took some 1/8" plate and wrapped it around the 2 main leafs (in the shape of a "C" then put a bolt through the plate to hold it in place. I haven't had an issue since.

KrazyKarl02
10-07-2015, 06:57 PM
While i'm sure having a true military wrap will help solve your spring bending issue, I think just adding a spring clamp closer to the end of the spring would accomplish the same thing. I did it with mine. I just took some 1/8" plate and wrapped it around the 2 main leafs (in the shape of a "C" then put a bolt through the plate to hold it in place. I haven't had an issue since.

I was going to do that also, I only want to buy one more set of leaf springs.

tommy53002
01-05-2016, 01:56 PM
So you get some shiny new knuckles yet?

KrazyKarl02
01-26-2016, 02:49 PM
So you get some shiny new knuckles yet?

Their not shiny, but yes, I got some new ones. So at the 2015 Clayton trip I broke the driver's side knuckle on Friday, replaced it with my spare (spare was from a '79 truck, so who knows what all had been done to it), then broke the spare I had just put on Saturday. Luckily I had given Slim my broken one to weld and he was able to patch it just time to put it back on. When I got home I looked at the passenger side and it had cracks all over it, like it was about to spontaneously explode.

I am guessing the high steer and the 2.5" full hydraulic steering ram were not a good combo for stock knuckles. Supposedly the Ford knuckles are weaker than the chevy knuckles. I looked online at my options and found essentially 3 choices, Crane, Deddenbear (Reid), and Solid. The Crane's were pretty pricey. The Deddenbear/Reid seem to be the industry standard and lots of people run them with great reviews on the internet. The Deddenbear/Reid have holes for 5 studs for high steer arms. The Solids had less reviews, but the ones I found were positive. Additionally the solids came with holes for 6 studs. My high steer arms already had 6 studs in them. Also the solids were over $100 less than the Deddenbear/Reids, so I decided to go with the solids and they are beef. You can get solids with a key way on top, but my existing arms did not have this key way. I could have milled a slot in the arms, but it just seemed like a lot of work for something I did not really need. No doubt the key way is stronger and if I was buying new knuckles and arms I would go that way. In the end I bought the solid knuckles with no keyway.

Everything went together smoothly with no fitment issues. I went ahead and replaced my u-joints in the axle shafts while I had it torn apart. Not sure if I should have done this, because the next weekend I went to wolf caves and promptly broke the passenger side u-joint :mad:

A picture of the solid knuckles compared to the stock plated passenger side knuckle, it's hard to see in the picture, but the solid knuckles are way bigger and way stronger.

Sparling
01-26-2016, 06:18 PM
Are your inner Cs cracked at all?

KrazyKarl02
01-26-2016, 06:43 PM
Are your inner Cs cracked at all?

There was no damage to my inner C's at all, they looked good. I know when Cook had his explosion it took out an inner C or bent it, mine looked fine and everything went back together. I think most damage occurs to inner C's when you break it and then continue driving. For me both failures I was going 1 mph, and just stopped.

kyle
01-26-2016, 08:16 PM
I had the same luck this past weekend...Friday night i was giving the jeep a once over getting ready to pull out Saturday morning for Clayton and sure enough, both passenger and driver were cracked in the same spot...Luckily I was in my garage and not on the backside of the mountain.

Ordered a plate kit from Rydel fab to plate the spare set of knuckles I already have. Just bought a Bent fab chassis and don't really have the extra funds to pony up for the Reids/Solids. But they do look nice!

KrazyKarl02
01-26-2016, 09:33 PM
When mine cracked you could see where it was rusted and opened up. Who knows how long they had been cracking for.

Either way plating and a spare set is a good idea.

KrazyKarl02
12-05-2016, 05:38 PM
Update before Clayton, I have been having some overheating issues, I have tried a couple different fans, my setup is a sbc350 with brand new aluminum radiator. I have changed the water pump, thermostat, verified there are no blockages, etc.... The kicker was I went to Marble Falls and burned up my alternator and overheated.

So, I put the CS144 alternator on, this is a 140 amp charging at idle alternator, upgraded the alternator charge wire to handle the power, and installed a Taurus 2 speed fan. The Taurus 2 speed fan is the internet god of all fans. The 2 speed fan I set it up where when the ignition is on it is low speed, then put a thermobulb relay fan control in to kick high on when it reaches 190. I wheeled all over hidden falls again, and granted the outside temp maybe got to 80, but the thing never got over 205, so I feel pretty good about it.

I also did a few other "mods", the simplest was new seats. Some of you might have seen the Beard Racing Seats I've had sitting in my garage for like 4 years, Jimmy, I think you slept in one last time you were down. I put those in, which required cutting the B pillar side bar and putting a new one in. Overall they are very comfortable and hold you well. They are a grey cloth which is ok, but I wish they were vinyl so I could clean them easier.

KrazyKarl02
12-05-2016, 05:44 PM
Now onto the bigger "mod", I have been squirreling away parts to 4 link the rear. A friend in the neighborhood who is a welder got laid off and was looking for work to do. I asked if he wanted to 4 link the jeep and we came to an agreed price and I let him have it... Kind of a weird thing to me because I am not used to paying other people to work on my ****, I usually just trick them into working on stuff... I'm glad I did, because I hate laying on my back grinding and welding. Go ahead and insert Mike or Jones's token comment about my welding.

Anywho, double triangulated 4 link
Fox 2.5" X 14" air shocks via Pirate
1-1/4 heims on the lowers, 7/8's on the uppers left over from Shaun of Crosby's build
Lowers are 2-3/8 extra heavy wall drill pipe, it is 7/16" thick sourced from some redneck for free.99
Uppers are 1-3/4 X 0.250 wall DOM
Axle Truss is a barnes 4WD truss that Jones had for some reason
I had to buy a few brackets, bolts and misc. ****....

Stretched out, we moved the axle back about 2"

I wanted to keep a back seat and I did not want to back half the frame, so he sectioned the frame. It might seem like this makes the frame weak, but with a 4 link there is nothing that needs supported behind the shock for suspension.

The height of the jeep and the length of the shock mandated the shock mount had to be up in the cab. He cut a neat little hole, we bent a piece of tube and this what we came up with.

KrazyKarl02
12-05-2016, 05:47 PM
Kevin and I bent a piece of tube to brace the 2 shock mounts together and then welded it in. A few shots of the underneath, hard to see everything, but a few points. The lower frame mount is a piece of 2X4X0.25 wall rectangular tube welded to the frame. It is far enough back that the t-case can be removed. The upper frames have 3 adjustable holes. Had to get new exhaust from the t-case back, I had the local exhaust shop sandwich in a tractor muffler, sounds ok, not as good as the magnaflow.

KrazyKarl02
12-05-2016, 05:47 PM
Then a set of 43" Stickies popped up on texas4x4. My 42" TSL's were getting pretty old, and while I was throwing money down a hole I bought them. Guy had bought them new in December, been on 8 trips. Guy named Alex, went to A&M, whiteshadow on texas 4x4. I had to get new rims so I bought some of Travis's China Beadlocks. Katelyn helped install them, this is the face she made when I asked about using a torque wrench...

KrazyKarl02
12-05-2016, 05:49 PM
And while burning money, The jeep body was getting pretty well, beat to ****. I found some straight outta china corner armor and rocker guards from eautogrilles.com , its about half the price of blue torch and all those guys and 25% the quality. But it bolted it on and I think made it look a lot better.

KrazyKarl02
12-05-2016, 05:50 PM
Did a little more work over the weekend, I never was happy with the front leaf spring position, the spring bushing set way back, this makes the nose stick out. Additionally the tire would come up into the back part of the fender. So I cut them off, I was able to move the spring perch 2.5" forward, while I was at it I "frenched" the hanger into the bumper and moved it up 1.5". My front leaf spring rear mounts have 4 holes and are adjustable. I am theorizing this dropped the front in 0.75" and now my wheel base is about 110". I like it, we'll see how it does at Clayton.

I also added a 3rd relay and a second fuse to the Taurus fan, I had it wired with 2 relays and 1 - 60 amp fuse, it ate one relay and melted the 60 amp fuse holder :o hopefully 2 60 amp fuses will be enough to supply the damn thing. The low speed/always on is fed via the 2 relays and high speed just has one relay.

KrazyKarl02
12-05-2016, 05:55 PM
And jeep as it sets with armor on top of the hill at Hidden Falls

tommy53002
12-06-2016, 09:31 AM
Looks good.

How did you like the new tires? Did you notice a big difference compared to your old TSLs?

What about the 4 link? Happy with how it performed?