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JB
04-24-2013, 08:55 AM
97 TJ. Bought Thursday, rolled Satruday. I already have it all torn down and ready for new parts.

Need tube fenders. I am pretty overwhelmed with the options out there, but I think I got it narrowed down. Biggest choice is either the stock location fenders or high clearance fenders. The stock height fenders still get you 2-3" of extra clearance, but essentially take up the same space. The high clearance fenders require cutting 3" out of hood. Plan is to keep Jeep as low as possible, so I am leaning towards the Hy-lines/Hy-fenders/XC etc. style

Pictures below are TNT Customs. These are the nicest, as they come with inner fenders. They are also not cheap. All of the other brands (PSC, Rockmen, Gen Right) sell the inner fender kit seperatley, stating that you CAN reuse the stock inner fenders, but you have to hack it all up to make it work. I will have to see how they attach when I get back to SA.

KrazyKarl02
04-24-2013, 09:35 AM
Wow, I didn't realize tube fenders cost that much. I would go with the high ones that require cutting the hood. As for the inner fenders, any pictures, does it look like a hack job?

Shaggy
04-24-2013, 09:38 AM
see if they will do a better price on multiples I need some fenders

AggieTJ2007
04-24-2013, 05:00 PM
I would go with the hi-line fenders and something with some sort of a flare.

I really like these
http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=TFF2720#.UXhVdkrYfAo


http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/body-armor/805595-arched-jeep-tube-fenders-tj-yj-metalcloak.html


The MetalCloak are probably my favorite

TdmayfieldIV
04-24-2013, 06:24 PM
Man I wish something was that easy for me

ZJ96
04-28-2013, 11:53 PM
http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/3729769668.html

redcagepatrol
04-29-2013, 11:56 AM
cut the hood for sure.

JB
04-30-2013, 10:17 PM
I got a free windshield frame with broken glass in much better shape then mine. Kid down the street has a TJ and had an extra. Got that done. Just need a hood now. Going to take the body lift off next week and order some fenders.

Sparling
04-30-2013, 10:22 PM
That Craigslist ad a few posts up has a black hood.

JB
04-30-2013, 10:59 PM
It's sold

KrazyKarl02
05-01-2013, 07:06 AM
Thoughts on putting plexiglass in the window instead of glass?

Sparling
05-01-2013, 11:27 AM
It'll get scratched and faded and probably just end up pissing you off.

KrazyKarl02
05-01-2013, 12:57 PM
It also won't break in a roll over and you can replace it every couple of years...

Hot Pocket
05-01-2013, 01:14 PM
http://images4.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20101208214504/mmplexiglass/images/c/c3/Plexiglass.jpg

BroncoJo
05-01-2013, 05:33 PM
plexiglass can be fairly scratch resistant, at least when compared to lexan, but I think it would still break in a roll-over. Also scratches in plexiglass can be sanded and buff'ed out.


Lexan is much stronger if you are concerned about roll-overs, but more prone to scratches and dis-coloring. Pretty much the only reason race-cars use lexan is the strength.

AggieTJ2007
05-01-2013, 06:09 PM
you could pony up the money for speed glass. I would like to find a good quality (not home depot) plexiglass or lexan to build a windshield for the jeep out of

JB
05-01-2013, 08:32 PM
David's Auto glass. $190.

JB
05-01-2013, 08:34 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/02/u6uhynys.jpg

China lights bolted to hinge? Gay or not gay? **** it, I like it

JB
05-01-2013, 08:36 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/02/8anyry8e.jpg

Only damage to "new" windshield frame. I think he should be able to get new glass in there. The guy put one in the bronco and it was beat to ****

JB
05-04-2013, 12:40 PM
Looks like it has D44 in the back.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/05/baqe5e5a.jpg

Shaggy
05-04-2013, 02:58 PM
Does it have the tag still? What gears? My brother's jeep might could use it when you pull it out.

JB
05-14-2013, 09:23 PM
Can someone move this to Projects and Buildups? Don't know why I put it here.

I got the body lift all cut down to 1". I ordered a 1" motor mount lift from BrownDog. I also order PSC XC fenders, but they take a couple weeks to get here.

I wanted to build my own front, but would need to buy some plate. Dumb question, but how do you buy plate? Square foot?

Whats the best way to fix the typcial TJ shifter issue? Just buy a new bushing?

I have to change up the air intake to make the high fenders work and it seems like alot of Jeep douchers cut a hole in the firewall and run the intake underneath the cowl, using an array of different junkyard intakes, the most popular being from a late 90s Windstar. Most look pretty clean, but I would be worried about rain water etc getting in. Anyone done this?

I need 35x12.5x15s if anyone finds any. Also need a softop, preferable cheap.

85cj7
05-14-2013, 09:34 PM
Yes you buy plate and sheet by the foot. Unless you can find large drop your best bet is to buy an entire 4x8 sheet. It is very expensive to buy a partial sheet and have it cut.

For instance I needed a 3'x4' piece of 1/4" plate and my yard didn't have a piece of drop that big. An entire 4x8 sheet cost $180 and my cut piece cost $150 since they had to shear a new piece.

AggieTJ2007
05-14-2013, 09:49 PM
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12521_200.htm

This bracket will fix the shifter. It is a mount that mounts the shifter pivot to the transmission instead of the body.

Shaggy
05-14-2013, 10:36 PM
Just pull that air box off. Grab a cone style filter and hose clamp it onto the end of the existing tube. It is what I did.

JB
05-14-2013, 10:47 PM
I want to run a simple, replaceable, cheap, paper filter.

JB
05-14-2013, 10:48 PM
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12521_200.htm

This bracket will fix the shifter. It is a mount that mounts the shifter pivot to the transmission instead of the body.

I assume I would need this as well?
http://www.quadratec.com/products/52207_0007.htm

Sparling
05-14-2013, 10:54 PM
Don't buy plate unless you have to. It's much easier to manage pieces of flat bar. I bought a whole stick of 6"x.25" flat bar for bumpers and random brackets. It also gives you a much nicer edge on most of your parts since you aren't cutting it from a sheet. Draw out some stuff on paper and see what you need. I think they make .25" flat bar up to a foot wide.

Also depending on where you go, they may not sell you anything less than half a sheet. When I bought steel for my floor they wouldn't sell me less than a whole sheet of 16 gauge.

RCcola55
05-15-2013, 06:42 AM
Sparlings right. Flat stock is the way to go unless you know someone with a plasma table. There are a bunch of home built bumpers out there that guys would share their dxf. with you.

Shaggy
05-15-2013, 08:11 AM
How much do you need? I have a lot of drop from the tank farm I'm building.

JB
05-15-2013, 09:58 AM
I dont need alot. Was going to run by Mack today.

Shaggy
05-15-2013, 10:32 AM
Give me some measurements. I'll give it to you. I am coming to SA in two weeks if you can wait. Possibly may be making a run there before then to check something out on my rent house.

Sparling
05-15-2013, 11:03 AM
He's not in San Antonio.

JB
05-15-2013, 11:24 AM
Thanks Tate. Is it 3/16"? Going to check prices here in CS today.

Shaggy
05-15-2013, 11:53 AM
1/4 is the smallest I have on hand. I forgot you were in CS.

JB
05-20-2013, 08:32 PM
What is a TJ hardtop worth on CL? I have a hardtop, but trashed softop in the roll. Would prefer another softop, factory is fine, just something simple.

AggieTJ2007
05-20-2013, 10:46 PM
Ebay looks like $800 so I would assume $500 to $1000 on craigslist depending on how patient you are and how good of shape it is in.

Edit: The only one I found for sale in Dallas in decent shape they were asking $1000 for it.

bburris
05-21-2013, 09:38 AM
We sell original TJ hard tops for $1600, and they don't stick around for more than a day or two. We usually have a waiting list of 10-15 people that are ready to drop that much as soon as we get them.

That being said, I sold mine for $1200 a few months ago and felt pretty happy about it.

JB
05-22-2013, 09:00 PM
Well that is good news. Really no desire to store one, and I do not plan to drive it alot in cold weather or over long distances. I'll get some pics and put in on the List

I need a front bumper. I was thinking about building one, but I found this simple one from Sinister and its only $200

http://www.sinisterfabworks.com/images/07-0029-b2.jpg

I'd prob spend $80 on material. I can get Quail Run Fab to to add some tube work around my winch and around the grill.

JB
06-04-2013, 04:40 PM
http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/lgvao.rxfco/v/vspfiles/photos/14-04-040-2T.jpg
or

http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/lgvao.rxfco/v/vspfiles/photos/14-04-010-2T.jpg

or

http://a248.e.akamai.net/origin-cdn.volusion.com/lgvao.rxfco/v/vspfiles/photos/14-04-043-2T.jpg

Sparling
06-04-2013, 04:45 PM
Have you learned how to do the jeep wave yet?

85cj7
06-04-2013, 04:51 PM
Middle one. Comp cuts are clearly for competition rigs only. . . . .

TdmayfieldIV
06-04-2013, 05:37 PM
middle one. If you ever comp cut it you can cut those along with the body.

Shaggy
06-04-2013, 10:18 PM
I say if you go with a comp cut one do one where if fills up the area the axle used to be. One thing I don't like about mine

Sparling
06-04-2013, 11:35 PM
He hasn't moved his axles, so there's no place for them to "used to be"

JB
06-05-2013, 07:14 AM
I like the comp cut, and eventually ill probably stretch it, but Tommy makes decent point. I can always cut it

AggieTJ2007
06-05-2013, 08:58 AM
I like the flares on the comp cut.

Shaggy
06-05-2013, 11:20 AM
I just figured he was doing axles and everything already.

DRAGOONRANCH
06-05-2013, 03:55 PM
If you're going to cut it later, why not just do it now and be done with it?

JB
06-06-2013, 09:44 AM
I thought I had already explained it, but looks like i didnt.

I want to get it trail worthy enough for a Colorado trip at the end of summer. Just do not have the time to tear it all down quite yet, and still want something I can wheel at DSO, Gen Sams, Shiloh etc. Might take it in is presently stockish form to Clayton this year, then start building it after that, so I wont miss any good trips.

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/pts/3752630682.html

Not too bad, expececially if I could get for $350-$400??? I want some 35s, but none have popped up on the list lately

robertf03
06-06-2013, 11:07 AM
I'd do whatever Matt Conley did. His Jeep did all that stuff and managed to avoid looking like it fell off the trailer on the way to an event.

AggieTJ2007
06-06-2013, 02:58 PM
I think that those tires and wheels would rub horribly when turning. You need 3.75" or so of backspacing with stock axles to not rub the springs in the rear and the control arms in the front with 33's.

With tube fenders and comp corners in the rear you will be able to keep the body strait pretty easily.

What do you have for a rear axle?

JB
06-06-2013, 03:05 PM
It has 33x12.5s on 15x10s now. Not sure what the spacing is, but they didn't rub at trees.

It has a 44 rear.

AggieTJ2007
06-06-2013, 03:59 PM
If i did it over again with my jeep I would do the following things in this order.

- Good front bumper with winch
-Good Rear bumper with tire carrier. You will drag the rear bumper alot with 33's even 35s and a stock wheelbase
-Better skidplates
- Upgrade upper and lower control arms to adjustable with flex joints
- Reinforce all control arm and track bar mounts. A few small pieces of plate to box in the mounts and better tie them in to the axle tube is all that would be needed.
-Comp Corners and rocker gaurds. 5x3 angle iron makes quick and easy rocker guards.
-Front lunchbox locker or ARB (if you have 3.73 the front will use the same carrier if/when you regear)
-Rear detroit or ARB and regear (with the limited slip D44 you can at a lunchbox locker and you will have to change carriers if/when you regear)


There is plenty more that you could do but your jeep should be trail ready for most any Colorado trails except Carnage Canyon as it is now with the addition of a winch. We had an IFS 4runner on 35's follow us all of the way up Holy Cross.

JB
06-06-2013, 06:48 PM
If i did it over again with my jeep I would do the following things in this order.

- Good front bumper with winch
-Good Rear bumper with tire carrier. You will drag the rear bumper alot with 33's even 35s and a stock wheelbase
-Better skidplates
- Upgrade upper and lower control arms to adjustable with flex joints
- Reinforce all control arm and track bar mounts. A few small pieces of plate to box in the mounts and better tie them in to the axle tube is all that would be needed.
-Comp Corners and rocker gaurds. 5x3 angle iron makes quick and easy rocker guards.
-Front lunchbox locker or ARB (if you have 3.73 the front will use the same carrier if/when you regear)
-Rear detroit or ARB and regear (with the limited slip D44 you can at a lunchbox locker and you will have to change carriers if/when you regear)


There is plenty more that you could do but your jeep should be trail ready for most any Colorado trails except Carnage Canyon as it is now with the addition of a winch. We had an IFS 4runner on 35's follow us all of the way up Holy Cross.

Good info Creighton.

I wanted to pick out a bumper this week and get it on order. Already have my XP9500. Still want something basic that will allow me to run the stock sway bar for now, but also something I can easily add tube to later. I wanted that Sinister bumper, but their website is being shady and never got a response from them

Should have the corners in later this month. Still undecided, but am leaning towards the comp cut with a flare that will match the fronts (a little different than the one in the pic above) These just bolt onto the existing sheetmetal and you mark/cut off the extra body right?

Rear bumper and sliders will be next.

Already noticed that the control arm mounts are getting chewed up. Seems like plating them could keep them usable for a few more trips.

Taylor has a pair of some adjustable arms I should probably buy.

Plan was to lunchbox lock the 44, then sell it when I go bigger.

What all is up with a TT? With stock suspension, all I really would need is a new skid right? It is not raising the transmission/tcase right?

Finally finished up the AA linkage bracket. The Quadratec linkage fix kit had the wrong size linkage rod grommets, so had to get those from Lithia today. Seems to shift fine. After more research, TJ guys really suck off that Novak cable shifter.

JB
06-06-2013, 06:52 PM
19474

...

AggieTJ2007
06-06-2013, 07:00 PM
Should have the corners in later this month. Still undecided, but am leaning towards the comp cut with a flare that will match the fronts (a little different than the one in the pic above) These just bolt onto the existing sheetmetal and you mark/cut off the extra body right?
Plan was to lunchbox lock the 44, then sell it when I go bigger.

What all is up with a TT? With stock suspension, all I really would need is a new skid right? It is not raising the transmission/tcase right?


Yep just bolt the corners on and cut off the extra body, you will have to figure something out to mount the filler neck and license plate on the driver side, or move the license plate to the middle of the spare and add a license plate light.


If you have the limited slip D44 rear you can't put a lunchbox in the rear because the LS is part of the case.

Most of the TT don't move the transmission and T-Case much if any higher. You will need to look into a Slip Yoke Eliminator and new rear if you don't already have one so that you can run a double cardian (CV) rear drive line.

JB
06-11-2013, 08:36 PM
19478
19479

Just test fitting now.

Seth
06-11-2013, 11:22 PM
Worlds tallest workbench.

JB
06-11-2013, 11:43 PM
***

JB
06-19-2013, 09:05 PM
Well first drive since Trees didnt go so well. A good bit of smoke coming from around the engine.

Added a gallon of ATF once I got it hot and checked it in neutral. Trans pan was hot as hell.

Oil pressure gauge reads 0, then about 5 min later, it will go up to 40, then back to 20, then 0.

Smells like clutch burning

Radiator leaking a little around the cap

There is a 3/4" hose coming out of the firewall on the pass. side. Looks like a heater hose, but it is below the heater hoses. I think it might hook up back to the intake?

MR.ZAP
06-19-2013, 09:10 PM
Holy sheet. Have fun with that! :confused:

AggieTJ2007
06-19-2013, 09:14 PM
Oil pressure sounds like a bad sender.

Can you take a picture of the hose underneath the heater hoses?

I would wash the motor down good with engine degreaser before you do anything.

Sparling
06-19-2013, 09:18 PM
My sisters 4.0 did the same thing with the oil pressure and it was a bad sender.

JB
06-19-2013, 09:32 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/20/pepy3ypu.jpg

Sparling
06-19-2013, 09:39 PM
Looks like an A/C line. Where does it go to on each end?

JB
06-19-2013, 09:43 PM
Looks like an A/C line. Where does it go to on each end?

Well if I knew that.....

It comes out of the firewall and ends there.

Sparling
06-19-2013, 09:46 PM
Nevermind, I'm looking at the wrong hose.

JB
06-19-2013, 09:54 PM
a 4.0 takes 6 qrts right? I changed the oil a couple weeks ago but have not driven it till now After this little trip to the gas station, it reads high, which has me worried.

Sparling
06-19-2013, 10:19 PM
yes. drain it and see what it looks like

85cj7
06-19-2013, 10:22 PM
Is the hose a drain for the cowl grate? Not sure on tjs but yjs and cjs have a drain hose that funnels water from the cowl vent downwards and dumps it after passing through the firewall?

Shaggy
06-19-2013, 10:27 PM
Where does that hose come out compared to the AC lines. If it is like a foot lower it should just be open. Mine only sticks out an inch though. If it is one if the two lines next to the AC lines then they go into the water pump

AggieTJ2007
06-19-2013, 11:04 PM
Looks like the AC drain line to me.

Oil capacity is 6 quarts.

KrazyKarl02
06-20-2013, 07:12 AM
Like Creighton sad, looks like the A/C drain line

And on my YJ, I have to smack the oil pressure gauge to get it to read, crank it up, it reads zero, smack the gauge, 40...

Ahh, what have I done, I own a jeep and now I am posting about jeeps, I need some mouth wash to get this taste out...

TdmayfieldIV
06-20-2013, 12:08 PM
You're such a jeep douche. Why are you putting bigger tires on your jeep? You're just gonna break stuff you stupid butthole!!! Those fenders look gay and make your jeep look super rice.

Quit modifying your vehicle, you don't need bigger tires.

AggieTJ2007
06-20-2013, 03:05 PM
You're such a jeep douche. Why are you putting bigger tires on your jeep? You're just gonna break stuff you stupid butthole!!! Those fenders look gay and make your jeep look super rice.

Quit modifying your vehicle, you don't need bigger tires.

This would be a valid point if it were his only mode of transportation and responsible for towing his ranger to alto

BroncoJo
06-20-2013, 03:39 PM
Ya jeeps are rice too!

JB
06-20-2013, 06:49 PM
Maybe I had too many garage beers last night.

All I did today purple power it down, fix a pinched vaccuum line, and topped off the trans and radiator. Drove it now and seems fine.

The sender is directly over the oil filter right? DUmb, but I unplugged it and plugged it back in and now it is back to reading somewhat accurate

I drained a little oil, and it was not obvious that there was water in it. Seemed fine.

And yes, that big line is an AC drain line. Kinda in a bad spot, but I can cut it a little shorter.

DRAGOONRANCH
06-20-2013, 09:35 PM
Need to change the title of this thread to Rice-a-roni....

JB
07-02-2013, 09:15 PM
The Jeep did great at DSO, even in the heat. I still am having an issue with the shifter even with the AA bracket. I need to figure that out.

The sway bar hits the PSC inner fenders. I can easily cut them, but what should I do about the sway bar? That sounds like the gayest Jeep questiom ever, but should I really just buy disconnects? Or just unbolt it when wheeling?:rainbow:

What about this setup?
*chromos/detroit in rear 44
*chromos/selectable in Rubicon front 44 (or RCVs;))
*2" coil lift with decent shocks (5100s)
*get skid up high
*some sort of better/adjustable arms
*SYE
*Atlas
*bling driveshafts
*35s
*cut rear fenders
*cage
*wheel piss out of it.


Going for less down time, highway/backroad drivability, ease of repair, simplicity.

The hardest trail it will see will be Clayton. I want to take it to Colorado, Moab, Fordyce, Rubicon, but seriously, Clayton probably has the hardest trails.

Shaggy
07-02-2013, 09:41 PM
I have disconnects sitting in my shop ill let go for cheap

TdmayfieldIV
07-03-2013, 12:35 AM
I wouldn't hesitate to drive it on the street with 37's.

This is what I would do

-superduty axles
-Make some radius arms for the front
-4 link rear with artec truss
-comp cut with rear body guards
-105 ish wheelbase
-Detroits rear, Arb Front and 4.56's
-Trailready or raceline beadlocks with 37" toyo's or Maxis trepadors
-Fox 2" coilovers, You can find them used all day long on race-dezert
-Air bumps
-Most competitive rigs don't have a ton of up travel so that they can keep it low. Evan's jeep only has like 3 or 4 inches of up travel and gains all of his flex in droop. That's why a rear truss won't get in the way too much. Might have to re- locate the fuel tank.
-Bling driveshafts
-Flat belly skid, I'm sure there's some beat off jeep uhmw skid

-Whatever gay ass t-case tate has
-cage
-tunes
-fuzzy dice
-keep the a/c
-winch
-wheel said piss

But that's me and I like to make things hard on myself.

mudtoy67
07-03-2013, 08:41 AM
Don't forget the Wicked Wheel!

JB
07-16-2013, 12:10 PM
19485

Jk turn signals. Pulled the fenders back off to repaint black

JB
08-16-2013, 08:06 AM
I got some 35x12.5x15 KM2s. The front looks great and it only seems to rub on the sway bar. The rear armor panels are in SA and I am going to bring them back with me next week and get them on. Problem in the rear is that the tire is very close on the front side to the tub. For my trip in a few weeks, I probably need to just do a spacer lift and mayeb some new shoks. RE spacers and new shocks run $240 so not too bad.

I still need to clean up the hood and paint it.

I have the old 33s for sale if anyone needs a spare. I think Taylor has dibs on two of them.

DRAGOONRANCH
08-16-2013, 07:55 PM
That new windshield washer RestoMod ( :flipoff3: Fred ) is Rice-A-Roni!!!

JB
08-24-2013, 08:38 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/25/9epadu2e.jpg

Got the rears on last week and 2" spacers today

The front axle naturally moves over to the drivers side slightly. Is this easily fixed by drilling g new hole in lower bracket?

Sparling
08-24-2013, 09:34 PM
I'd go adjustable track bar. If you go higher or lower later you can adjust it in or out instead of welding up holes and trying to drill them out straight every time.

Shaggy
08-24-2013, 10:47 PM
Drilling works but tends to oval out over time and require welding. I would go adjustable too

JB
08-24-2013, 11:22 PM
I would agree that an adjustable would be better

Is the problem that you are more than likely not going to drill a perfect hole through both pieces, thus it will wallow out?

Sparling
08-24-2013, 11:36 PM
That and if you start drilling holes in different places then your drag link and track bar won't be parallel and will cause bump steer. I'm assuming this thing still gets some street time so that would be no bueno.

Shaggy
08-25-2013, 08:45 AM
I would agree that an adjustable would be better

Is the problem that you are more than likely not going to drill a perfect hole through both pieces, thus it will wallow out?

This and your drill bit is still in the first hole while cutting the second one. The bits I use will cut the hole bigger if you move the slightest.

colman
08-25-2013, 02:26 PM
and it is a stress point in the front suspension. stock and factory ones oval out leading to death wobble and it is sometimes hard to determine where it is coming from

Shaggy
10-17-2013, 03:49 PM
any updates?

JB
10-17-2013, 06:23 PM
Not really.

I have been driving it alot.

Took all soft top bracketry off.
Got the PSC sliders on.
Fixed some minor stuff from Carnage Canyon.
Traded for some half doors which I really like. They are also white, so its mismatched black white everywhere, kinda looks goofy.
Also got the passenger side seat bracket move-back kit on yesterday.
About to fix factory spare tire mount that cracked in hopes to make it hold the 35 for a few more trips.

Put some fresh bump bump speakers in it today. About to load up the toolbox in prep for Shiloh.

Shaggy
10-17-2013, 08:20 PM
Where did you end up getting your fenders from?

Sparling
10-17-2013, 10:21 PM
I like the fenders he chose, they look good. This jeep looks like a cop car almost with the black and white body panels.

JB
10-17-2013, 10:38 PM
Poison spyder

AggieTJ2007
10-17-2013, 11:11 PM
I think I have a bestop tire carrier for a TJ that I will let go for cheap if you are interested

It bolts through the body to the roll cage on the top and the body mount on the bottom.

JB
10-31-2013, 08:57 PM
Not ready just yet, but want to be on the look out. I have not searched for axles in close to 10 years. So many new options out there.

Width.

After wheeling it some, I really have no issue with the track width. It is nice fitting easily through trees. Would not want to go fullsize. From brief searching, looks like stock TJ is about 60" and a d60 is around 70". Would splitting that be reasonable?


Just for reference, what are the off the shelf options? Currie, G2, Dynatrac? Could put together a Spyder9?

Should I just be on the look out for a kp60? 10.25 for the rear to be different? My concern with narrowing an axle down is the pita of ordering a new shaft and not having readily availible spares.

My dumb plan right now would be to keep it close to same height, still run good 35s, tummy tuck, long-arms, keep it fairly simple

Out of curiosity, what does a TJ Rubicon front 44 go for used? Still have the idea of building 44s and keeping it on 35s.

Sparling
10-31-2013, 09:26 PM
Waggy 44 and 9 inch, Locked rear, auburn limited slip front, 37s keep it light weight.

Building from a custom housing gets real expensive real quick because you have to buy every piece and then you have to put it all together. You'd be time and money ahead to put axles in with chromos and disk brakes in the rear.

robertf03
11-01-2013, 02:26 AM
I'd just buy a super 30 kit and super 44 kit with whatever locker you plan on running.

The only real argument against the super XX stuff is if you did manage to break something won't be able to find replacements from the Slims of the world, but it is pretty relaxing to park it, drink, then order replacement parts on Monday. Its not like you are going to find replacement rubicon shafts out in the wild anyway.

redcagepatrol
11-01-2013, 08:11 AM
Lynda's front is 64" it's a little too narrow, tires rub the frame. I built the buggy to 65 or 66 I think.

85cj7
11-01-2013, 08:31 AM
Lynda's front is 64" it's a little too narrow, tires rub the frame. I built the buggy to 65 or 66 I think.

My front is 63.5WMS and the rear is 62" WMS. If I had to do it again I would go an inch or two wider. Maybe 66"WMS in front and 64.5"WMS in rear.


If you're gonna keep it on 33"s then I agree with Flem. Polish those turds and be done with them. Otherwise I would build ruffstuff 609s front and rear and dump the coin into what matters. Then never worry about them again. (Sparlings d-44 and 9" suggestion is not bad either)


Scott,
Is that a yj frame? Aren't they a bit wider then a CJ? I don't have any frame clearance problems on mine.

redcagepatrol
11-01-2013, 08:37 AM
yes - YJ frame

tigweld
11-04-2013, 09:53 AM
and a tj frame is even wider than yalls, especially in the back. id say at least 2 inches wider per side. set it up with a neutral wheel and then u can adjust it easier with a different backspacing if u dont like.

JB
11-23-2013, 09:27 AM
The PSC rear armor I have is of course nice and flat on the inside but the body of the jeep is no longer perfectly straight. It has a few low spots which allow mud and water to be trapped. I am going to pull them off and work those areas a little more but what else can I do to seal it off?

Black caulking from Home Dept? Not sure how much body /armor would move.

colman
11-23-2013, 05:09 PM
Weld to body.

tigweld
11-23-2013, 07:01 PM
3m Seam sealer

redcagepatrol
11-24-2013, 02:25 PM
weld it.

JB
12-18-2013, 11:52 AM
The Jeep did great at Clayton. I put a hole through the oil pan on Walk in the Park and bent the exhaust on Green Mamba. All in all, pretty damn good.

Pretty overwhelming options to go from here. Longarms with coils? Stay low and on short arms? Stretch? **** is very expensive

The wheelbase really did not bother me, other than the rear departure angle. Height was also decent, though the stock skid is very low. 30/44 held up fine. Still thinking if I found a bolt in Rubicon 44 that was not absurdly priced, I would do it.

Tummy tuck skids , maybe a real 2-3" spring, better shocks, adjustable short arms, lockers and shafts. This option is very minimal fab, less down time, more wheeling time.

One other thing I need to do is research better alternators. BDR said there is a 120 amp Ultima at Oriellys. The one on there now does not like winching. Might also have an Optima slowly dying.

JB
12-30-2013, 10:37 AM
http://waco.craigslist.org/pts/4206726284.html

Deal?

85cj7
12-30-2013, 10:58 AM
It says the 23 spline input is for a manual trans only. Isn't yours an auto?

Sounds reasonably priced to me.

Shaggy
12-30-2013, 02:20 PM
how used it is? They have very little fluid space in them and will burn up bearings easily. I toasted mine. I am going to rebuild it and stick it in Jason's jeep. I wouldn't spend that much myself unless it was pretty much brand new. A used Atlas would be way way better. I would imagine you end up with an atlas in the long run anyhow. Can't do a front dig with a teralow case either.

JB
12-30-2013, 02:34 PM
I think it depends on the input shaft length. Teraflex only calling them long(manual) or short(auto). Need To research more.

Looks like stock Rubicon cases have 4:1 and fixed yoke for around same price

Are used Atlass that common? I don't want to sit around waiting

KrazyKarl02
12-30-2013, 02:38 PM
A couple atlas's a week pop up on pirate. The problem is finding the correct side drop, input shaft and the ratio you want. They are generally in the 1800 to 2500 range.

TdmayfieldIV
12-30-2013, 03:59 PM
Atlases are for the weak.

KrazyKarl02
12-30-2013, 07:04 PM
Atlases are for the weak.

Yeah, that's why I sold you my doubler and bought an atlas.

Sparling
12-30-2013, 08:17 PM
Yeah, that's why I sold you my doubler and bought an atlas.

That was to sabotage tommy. Like selling blankets to the Indians.

JB
12-30-2013, 09:27 PM
Think I'm going to look for a rubicon case for around $1k. No doubt an Atlas is nice, but I'd spend 3 times as much for a new one. I could buy another Honda fourtrax with extra 2k.

JB
01-20-2014, 01:36 PM
I think I have a bestop tire carrier for a TJ that I will let go for cheap if you are interested

It bolts through the body to the roll cage on the top and the body mount on the bottom.

Creighton, do you still have this?

AggieTJ2007
01-20-2014, 05:22 PM
yes, I do and I even found the brackets to bolt it through the body and too the roll cage.

JB
01-20-2014, 05:31 PM
So the top mounts through the body and to the bottom of the cage and the bottom mounts to the body mount? And then attached to the tailgate so it all opens togther? How much? Id have to figure out how to get it down here

bcolman
01-20-2014, 05:43 PM
My brother can help get it to Houston if that works better for you, he is going to Dallas this weekend.

AggieTJ2007
01-20-2014, 09:39 PM
let me double check and make sure I have all of the parts.

If I have everything to install it I am thinking $75
Or I would really like to trade it for ford 1350 CV driveshaft parts

colman
01-20-2014, 10:19 PM
I will be there friday thru Monday morning around the Knox/Henderson area

JB
01-20-2014, 10:24 PM
Don't have any cv parts but id do $75 for sure. Andrew, you thinking I'm in CS? I'm back in SA now

colman
01-21-2014, 03:01 AM
I keep forgetting.

AggieTJ2007
01-21-2014, 11:15 AM
Sharpe will be in Dallad next weekend. I will send it down with him

JB
01-21-2014, 11:46 AM
Perfect! PM me your address or a Wells Fargo account number. Thanks Creighton.

JB
01-28-2014, 02:24 PM
Sent. Sharpe says he can get it this coming weekend

JB
02-18-2014, 10:34 PM
Got the SYE done. One step closer to full Jeep bro. A 231 is sure lighter than a doubler.:D

Medium sizes trans pan leak probably from dent from Clayton. Going to fix that and get it back together. Also found some adjustable lowers on CL. Need adjustble uppers now.

I got the tire carrier on. Looks ok.

Work to begin on Project Altomaster Annihilator soon.:cool::confused2:cool::confused2:flipoff2: #fvckyouevan

Hellbent
02-18-2014, 11:02 PM
[QUOTE=JB;298543]Got the SYE done. One step closer to full Jeep bro. A 231 is sure lighter than a doubler.:D

Medium sizes trans pan leak probably from dent from Clayton. Going to fix that and get it back together. Also found some adjustable lowers on CL. Need adjustble uppers now.

I got the tire carrier on. Looks ok.

Work to begin on Project Altomaster Annihilator soon.:cool::confused2:cool::confused2:flipoff2: #fvckyouevan[/QUOTE

H A H A H A H A
My creativity is unmatched

TdmayfieldIV
03-31-2014, 12:06 PM
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1101159-racing-koh-way-mall-4550-a.html

do it

Sparling
03-31-2014, 01:06 PM
As long as it's all bolt ons

:flipoff2:

JB
03-31-2014, 03:32 PM
Hey Sparling, how's that rig coming?

Sparling
03-31-2014, 04:07 PM
Oh you got me! Problem is, it's in CS and I haven't had time to get it, and someone tried driving it and now it doesn't start.

AggieTJ2007
04-08-2014, 08:45 PM
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html

JB this is what I would do for steering. you would just need to get the knuckles and pitman arm reamed out to 1 ton taper.

Sparling
04-08-2014, 09:14 PM
What about those TRE inserts ruffstuff has? Are they okay to use or should those be avoided if you're upgrading?

These things:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/INSSTEER-2PK.html

KrazyKarl02
04-08-2014, 09:22 PM
I would only use those inserts if I was on a real tight budget, what happens if those become loose?

Sparling
04-08-2014, 09:27 PM
How? They have a lip to keep them from going all the way through and the nut on the TRE will keep them from coming out the other way.

I guess it really shouldn't cost much more than those inserts to get the knuckles reamed if you take them off and to a machine shop or find someone who has a reamer though.

JB
04-08-2014, 09:42 PM
pretty sure I have a reamer somewhere. I purchased one after Vilas ****ed up my 60 knuckles after I took them to be reamed

I am not keeping the 30 though.

85cj7
04-08-2014, 10:06 PM
I have those inserts on my cj and havent had a problem with them. I borrowed JBs GM reamer a few yrs back to do my d-30 knuckles. . . . I know I returned it to your place off hwy21.

Sparling
04-08-2014, 10:06 PM
What are you going to go with?

JB
04-08-2014, 10:15 PM
Dana5000s

TMatheaus
04-09-2014, 07:00 AM
What I did for my steering for a cheap fix and held up great until i blew the motor, was i took the tie rod and slid a piece of schedule 40 pipe over the whole thing and welded it to both ends. That seemed to help a lot and was cheap. Before that it seemed like i would put a kink the steering every trip. A trail fix that i learned at trees was to pull the steering loose, straighten as much as possible, pull one end free and slide the handle of your high lift over it and reassemble

KrazyKarl02
04-09-2014, 10:04 AM
How? They have a lip to keep them from going all the way through and the nut on the TRE will keep them from coming out the other way.

I guess it really shouldn't cost much more than those inserts to get the knuckles reamed if you take them off and to a machine shop or find someone who has a reamer though.

Let me re-phrase my opinion, if you had the steering knuckle sitting on your garage table, to the left of it you had those inserts and to the right you had a drill with a reamer bit on it, which one would you use?

Hellbent
04-09-2014, 11:04 AM
just get another T post

Sharpe
04-09-2014, 11:14 AM
The T-post tie rod broke off at the end of the t-post

DRAGOONRANCH
04-09-2014, 12:21 PM
just get another T post


The T-post tie rod broke off at the end of the t-post

Just get a longer t-post....

mudtoy67
04-09-2014, 12:35 PM
Just get a longer t-post....

A longer t-post still has two ends. Now a t-post rolled in a circle... :facemeltedoff:

DRAGOONRANCH
04-09-2014, 01:07 PM
#takeyourvoodootoanotherthred.

Sparling
04-09-2014, 09:13 PM
Let me re-phrase my opinion, if you had the steering knuckle sitting on your garage table, to the left of it you had those inserts and to the right you had a drill with a reamer bit on it, which one would you use?

Having both defeats the purpose of the inserts. If I had a d30 that I didn't plan on keeping, I would most definitely use the inserts if I didn't already have a reamer. If it was a bigger axle that was going to stay a while, I would find a reamer to use.

JB
12-25-2014, 10:41 PM
The little Jeep did great at Clayton 2014. I didn't break anything and the locker held up.

Two things i did notice.

1) the oil pressure gauge usually reads 0. I haven't researched it yet, but BDR says its pretty standard for the 4.0. Annoying "check gauges"
light comes on and chimes.

2) Even after installing the 136 amp alternator and larger gauge wire, whenever I hit the winch cable(with a load on it or not) it still kills the radio. Not sure why.

I did have a flat when I got home, but I think it is from ripping up the valve stem at Frielings. I initially had the pressure at 12, but after wheeling it Thursday night, I lowered to 7. BIG difference, walked up everything I couldnt the night before.

I need lower gearing for sure. Always feel like I am smoking the brakes.

Need more tire/clearance.

Leaning more towards a 44 up front, chromos all around and 37s and it would do everything I want it to.

DRAGOONRANCH
12-26-2014, 09:36 AM
Check your cab ground, or add one. That would be my first spot to check the radio.

colman
12-26-2014, 02:09 PM
if you get a rubi or other bolt in 44 get the gusset and tube kit to strengthen it. with larger tires they tend to bend the tubes and inner c's. kit is cheap and an easy weld in.

JB
05-10-2015, 11:18 PM
Did great at K2 last weekend. I spliced the winch rope back together and swapped in a new passenger shaft. Then I left it in the backyard while I worked on something else and the sprinklers soaked it, which fried the radio.

Need to start looking at D44 front options. Found a 80 FS Cherokee at the junkyard with a 6 lug 44, but I think it was low pinion. I think Sparling has a Ford 44 that might work.

Seth
05-11-2015, 12:35 PM
Do scout 44s work?

mudtoy67
05-11-2015, 12:46 PM
He needs driver drop

colman
05-11-2015, 03:14 PM
80+ fsj is lp and 6 lug but it could be made into 5x5.5 or even 8 lug
if you want hp you will have to go ford
early bronco is lp

JB
05-11-2015, 06:38 PM
What is stock TJ 30 width? 60"? Stock full width 70s ford 44? 65"? sound right???

Seth
05-11-2015, 09:20 PM
I also have two fullsize bronco 44s and only one truck. Lemme know.