CAGE design

[bigFAWKINranger]

insurance co is sending me a check for $7300. i have to have ford sign off on it since i am still paying on the truck. after that, i will spend half on bills- and half goes to my truck. here is one way i intend to burn some cash. the DOTTED lines are INSIDE the cab... the SOLID lines are X-cage. questions? comments? ideas?

[Krawler68]

I think the cage should be priority #1... get that built and designed right... I would recommend beefier rockers than a single tube... possibly move the internal dotted vertical line to the outside of the truck, and add a little triangulation.

I also think you could get a 14 bolt and D60 installed for the money, but you wouldn't be able to afford tires.... hence I think you should find me a set of D60's and we'll work out a deal in trade +cash to swap the 60's you find for my D44 and 9" which woul mean you could run MY tires... or your 35's...

Doug

[BigRedFord04]

new axles THEN gears and lockers

[Shaggy]

i say cage first then axles then gears and then lockers.... although beer should be involved with the instilation of all of that hookers wouldnt be a bad thing either but instead of hookers just get some sluts... their free:D

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by Krawler68
I think the cage should be priority #1... get that built and designed right... I would recommend beefier rockers than a single tube... possibly move the internal dotted vertical line to the outside of the truck, and add a little triangulation.

I also think you could get a 14 bolt and D60 installed for the money, but you wouldn't be able to afford tires.... hence I think you should find me a set of D60's and we'll work out a deal in trade +cash to swap the 60's you find for my D44 and 9" which woul mean you could run MY tires... or your 35's...

Doug
if those bars are outside the doors, i won't be able to open them.
i might not go 1 ton axles... it depends on what i find and for how much$. i might try to find half ton axles out of say a late 90's dodge ram...

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by Shaggy
i say cage first then axles then gears and then lockers.... although beer should be involved with the instilation of all of that hookers wouldnt be a bad thing either but instead of hookers just get some sluts... their free:D
well duh, beer is an important part of any project. although my sarge said i should stick to liquor bc its not as fattening.:D where would i ever find sluts? i don't associate with those types.

[Shaggy]

Originally posted by bigFAWKINranger

where would i ever find sluts? i don't associate with those types.

***... i call bullchit:flipoff2:

[Cajun]

Originally posted by bigFAWKINranger


i might not go 1 ton axles... it depends on what i find and for how much$. i might try to find half ton axles out of say a late 90's dodge ram...

Bad idea. Late '90's Dodges used auto hubs and vacuum disco fronts, not my first choice for a swap. Figure out what drop you need/want and go from there.

Go 1 ton. I can't imagine you regretting going too big. Drivers side = Ford. '78-'79 Rev. cut high pinion. Passenger side = GM or Dodge. Rears are simple, 35 spline D70 or 14 bolt. Better gear selection for the 70.

[bigFAWKINranger]

well i WANT to find a 92-97 F350 to get axles out of.... leaf sprung, 8 lug, full width, and i can keep my VSS...

[Cajun]

Originally posted by bigFAWKINranger
...leaf sprung, 8 lug, full width, and i can keep my VSS...

Why would you want to do that?

:confused:

[Krawler68]

Originally posted by bigFAWKINranger

if those bars are outside the doors, i won't be able to open them.
i might not go 1 ton axles... it depends on what i find and for how much$. i might try to find half ton axles out of say a late 90's dodge ram...


I am saying you should put the vertical bars behind the door and outside the vehicle...

I think you should get me some one ton axles and then work a trade for my built and locked 1/2 ton axles... they're all you'll need.

Doug

[Krawler68]

Those kind of benders kink tubing pretty badly... you can do like Scott and build youir exo out of sched 40 pipe... then that bender will work OK...still not mandrel bends but not unsafe.

Doug

[Krawler68]

WHat brand is that? It's a tubing bender...should work OK... I would recommend you have a cage professionally built or get the help of people who have built cages... they make bending and fishmouthing SOOOO easy... trying to build one in your head and then experimenting usually means there is a much shoddier product upon completion.


Doug

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by Krawler68



I am saying you should put the vertical bars behind the door and outside the vehicle...

I think you should get me some one ton axles and then work a trade for my built and locked 1/2 ton axles... they're all you'll need.

Doug
its a 4 door- i'd rather dent up my doors on occasion when i DO roll, than protect them and render them useless to me.
i want full track width.. i like the idea of wider stance... and once i lower the ranger down some i won't need to worry about rolling all the time. we'll see what happens with my check- ford still has to sign off on it... and i am offering them $1000 off the top to cover an overdue payment plus some.

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by eight
Same problem he just went through. It don't shift right without the sensor. Don't have to be picky on the front axle, just rear. I vote for an exo if you do a cage. For $3650 you should be able to build a cage if you can get a bender and do it yourself, get a 44 front and lock it, some sort of rear and weld it, and buy tires and wheels.

OK, bender question, I can borrow a hydraulic bender whenever I want. The guy that has it makes cages out of 4" tube with it but has dies down to 2". It's one like in the picture below, but bigger. This isn't the right kind is it?
i have access to a hydraulic bender. i will use .180 wall DOM... at less than $2 a foot, and approx 150 ft, and the axles i am not fully DECIDED on yet, but they will not be a dana 30 and a 7.5":flipoff2: we'll see what we can do once the check is in hand. EVERYBODY is welcome to help this summer if you like, after all... the ranger is going with me to wherever i am stationed, in the USA, and we gotta represent TAMOR.

[robertf03]

Originally posted by eight
How about one like this? It says it can do a max of 2" x .25" wall.

nope, wrong kind. might be able to bend tube, but it uses rollers instead of dies and will kind pretty bad. Theres one of those up here at school. its usefull for square tubing and thats about it.

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by eight
Well Doug, I never thought about having a professional do something mechanical for me, trying to stay away from them. Northern Tool (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=630&categoryId=156) For this price, it must not be good enough? You know more about them than I do.
the kind that you posted will bend it ok, but it puts a kind of kink in the inside of the bend and will weaken the tube, you eed a hydro bender that pulls the tube over the die....

[Krawler68]

I hadn't even noticed that used rollers not dies... my bad... that won't work.

I would suggest you contact either of these two places to have a professional cage built. After rolling my rig I was VERY satisfied I had it done professionally... there are plenty of other places to be cheap.

Brutal Offroad
830-510-4622


Big Dog Custom Fab
325-895-0535


Both places should charge 900-1300 for a cage depending on how detailed you get and if you want it powdercoated.


Doug

[Krawler68]

Originally posted by bigFAWKINranger

you eed a hydro bender that pulls the tube over the die....

not all hydro benders are tubing benders...be careful... most tubing benders are manual benders.

Also I wouldn't use .180 wall unless you get it almost free... it will multiply the weigh of your cage 50% over .120 wall... not a good trade off in my book.


Doug

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by Krawler68


not all hydro benders are tubing benders...be careful... most tubing benders are manual benders.

Also I wouldn't use .180 wall unless you get it almost free... it will multiply the weigh of your cage 50% over .120 wall... not a good trade off in my book.


Doug
good call..... i actually meant .120- we had the weight discussion before when discussing this and .120 was decided on.

[Chadnutz]

So you are getting a check for $7000+ and how much of that goes to Ford?

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by Chadnutz
So you are getting a check for $7000+ and how much of that goes to Ford?
thats not up to me, but i imagine they'll want the $$ that i'm behind on... so i'm offereing up $1000. i don't owe that much, but it should satisfy them

[Doug Krebs]

I'll give you a sweet deal on my 10 bolt in the front. let me know if you are interested.

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by Doug Krebs
I'll give you a sweet deal on my 10 bolt in the front. let me know if you are interested.
thanks for the offer, but its a pass drop, and i need a driver drop- besides, it not really much of an upgrade.... can you see if stuart has any axles for sale?

[Doug Krebs]

I'm sure it would hold up just fine on your ranger. I pulled tate on a trail for a long time and didn't break anything. Plus it has a posi and makes a good alternative to a 60 if you were putting a 1 ton axle in the rear since it is 8 lug. Has 4.10's also!

[eight]

I'll give you $211 for it, the spare parts, and a pass side flat top. You don't have to include the swampers anymore.

[Doug Krebs]

Originally posted by eight
I'll give you $211 for it, the spare parts, and a pass side flat top. You don't have to include the swampers anymore.

and i get to shove it up your %*&????

[eight]

Nobody else is gonna buy it, I'm the only one dum enuff.

[Doug Krebs]

I'll find someone to buy it... it would be a good buy for someone that is putting a 14 bolt under their blazer.

[eight]

How about if I don't make you include a flat top? Same price.

[bigFAWKINranger]

quit selling/bidding on crappy axles in my cage thread damnit!:flipoff2: we're losing focus here.. whats important is ME, and MY concerns.:D here is another angle on the cage,

[Doug Krebs]

allright so you have some gay ass grabber green design, now lets get back to selling that axle.

Stuart told me it's worth a lot more than $211. How about 411 and we'll make it a deal!

[robertf03]

Hey Adam, if you want a cage done by a shop, theres one at 635 and 35e that will do it. Baer Trax. Met the guy at the Saucer, so he can't be all that bad. Let me know if you want to head down there for an estimate and I'll try to pull the good old boy network "I met you at a bar" line.

I want to check out his shop, he's supposed to be a bad ass when it comes to OBD2 4.0 swaps.

[eight]

$225. The poor thing's been under a huge chevy all it's life, the tubes have to be fatigued, maybe even bent. Nearly nothing is origional, no good for restoration. It's 2" too wide. The tie rod is bent. The limited slip is probably about to stop limiting, plus people will make fun of me when it breaks loose. One ball joint is bad. It's been beat the hell out of. Rocks have taken bites out of it.



To get back to a Nix subject. There's a waggy in a little yard north of Navasota. Got 44 front with driver's drop, and AMC20HD rear. Not sure if that's wide enough for you. I think they're 61". Gears would be 2.73 or 3.31 I think. It's hiding in the back and looks to have been there a while. Didn't check a price cause I can't use it, but maybe if someone's going that way they can stop and check. You can get some 4.10 gear's/carrier for the 44 from Mike Knoller, I think he still has them. And maybe a toy rear with 4.10s from Chris Feller. Just some options.

Or would you be interested in splitting these J10s with me. http://www.tamor.org/forum/upload/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1567 He says late 70s but it's possible one could be early 80s and has a driver's drop front. One might even have a dana 60-2 rear, thats 35 splines semi-float with 5 on 5.5. Take the axles, part out the rest, and come out about even. I think J10 axles are 65" wide.

[Ben97XJ]

BaerTrax is a nice place i met Russ ,the owner, briefly and looked around his shop. He a real god guy and he seems to be real good at what he does.
Here is the link
beartrax (http://www.baertrax.com/)

[bigFAWKINranger]

FLEM, i know of russ... he does good work. i've seen everything from custom bumpers to his "buttface" diff guard. i would prefer to build the cage myself with the help of friends. its cheaper, more fun, and i can say i did it.
KRABS, its GRABBER GREEN so that it would stand out in the design. the real cage will be BLACK or ELECTRIC BLUE.
EIGHT, i need a rear axle that has the ford VSS... thats a MUST. and since i'm going that direction i would PREFER full width and 8 lug if possible.
lets see what happens when the check gets here.... :D
ps- does anybody have any constructive criticism on my cage design???? SCOTT?

[redcagepatrol]

looks good to me. Just be sure to triangulate as much as possible and make good rocker panels that will protect the boby. Met Russ this weekend, watched him roll twice - his cage worked well.

other news, My front $50 D60 has 35 inners and 30 outers while the rear only has 30 splines with a shaft smaller than the Yota's

[BigRedFord04]

paint it grabber green you pansy! Yukon makes 4.88s for the 10.25 and its got a VSS :D :D :D

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by BigRedFord04
paint it grabber green you pansy! Yukon makes 4.88s for the 10.25 and its got a VSS :D :D :D

shut up or i won't let you ride shotgun when i wheel it.:flipoff2: i've had my run with grabber green. the electric blue looked pretty sweet against that red truck.
damn you! give me a chance to get the check- then i'll figure out the axles.
haha- i LOVE collection agencies- if you don't pay your bills, the collection agencies get a crack at ya, and they will ALWAYS settle for like, 70% of what you owe!!!! they are gonna let me pay off my capital one card for $1800!!!!!! hahahahahahaahahaha.... i win again!:flipoff2: i owe $2600!!!

[BigRedFord04]

LMAO!!! BADASS...thats only like $100 more than you paid for the tranny rebuild....no interest for like 2 years....hahahahahahaha....f*ck the system

[Krawler68]

yeah it's badass what it does to your credit rating too... wait until you try to get another truck. I have been there... I fought not to let them give me the discounted credit off.

Doug

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by Krawler68
yeah it's badass what it does to your credit rating too... wait until you try to get another truck. I have been there... I fought not to let them give me the discounted credit off.

Doug

asssphinctersayswhat?
my credit is already ****ED... hahaha... and it amuses me. i will pay cash for my next truck anyway. my only expenses for the next 4 yrs will be food and ranger payment. i'll be able to pay for a decent USED tow rig within the year. all the while, working to REBUILD credit.

more cage criticsim.... thats why i started this... I WANT critique... this thing needs to be done right.
i found a flaw in my desing just a minute ago- there was no support between the bumper and the bar over the front wheel well... c'mon assbutts, help me out here.

[Krawler68]

I think you should ditch the doors and go with a design something like Hal's... his cage design proved itself pretty well this last weekend in katemcy.

It's a halo around the cab... simple spreaders running down to the rocker guards that are made of 3" and thick pipe... he has beat the poop outta these.... I'd personally use 2"x6" square tubing as rocker guards. I would gusset the hell out of each junction where the spreaders come up and meet the halo.


Then I would triangulate door bars and put some goofy looking fender protection/gusseting on the front bars running along your hoodline... that will reinforce that bar.

I also think cross brace behind the seats would be invaluable. something much easier if you ditch the doors. beside how long are you actually going to want those?


After you lose the doors I recommend you remove your windshield and install some lexan that you have bent with a heat gun and use self tapping screws to faten it all the way around.



Doug

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by Krawler68
I think you should ditch the doors and go with a design something like Hal's... his cage design proved itself pretty well this last weekend in katemcy.
It's a halo around the cab... simple spreaders running down to the rocker guards that are made of 3" and thick pipe... he has beat the poop outta these.... I'd personally use 2"x6" square tubing as rocker guards. I would gusset the hell out of each junction where the spreaders come up and meet the halo.
Then I would triangulate door bars and put some goofy looking fender protection/gusseting on the front bars running along your hoodline... that will reinforce that bar.
I also think cross brace behind the seats would be invaluable. something much easier if you ditch the doors. beside how long are you actually going to want those?
After you lose the doors I recommend you remove your windshield and install some lexan that you have bent with a heat gun and use self tapping screws to faten it all the way around.
Doug
word on the 2x6... thats what my rear bumper is made of, and the front will be too. its good stuff.
my cage design isn't too dissimilar from Hal's but i wanna keep the doors... its still my daily driver.
i'm not sure about the lexan, it sounds pretty expensive.

[bigFAWKINranger]

another pic... sorry its black n white..

[bigFAWKINranger]

.

[Krawler68]

I think you can pick up some lexan for the windshield for WAY cheaper than buying a new windshield...

You'll regret not losing the doors right off the bat...

Also, you won't have any of those bed bars right? I thought it was a flatbed?



Doug

[bigFAWKINranger]

it is a flat bed, but i like the idea of a cage that still follows the outline of the bed. i think it'll look purty sweet to have an all tubular bed.
i want the doors.

[bburris]

Nix - the way you off-road that thing, the unprotected doors will end up being rendered un-useable on the first trip you take. If you really want to keep them I would say build some sort of hinged protection for them. Don't really know how that would work though...

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by bburris
Nix - the way you off-road that thing, the unprotected doors will end up being rendered un-useable on the first trip you take. If you really want to keep them I would say build some sort of hinged protection for them. Don't really know how that would work though...
well i fukkin need them. its my daily driver damnit... it does rain from time to time, and it gets cold as fukk too. god only knows where the corps will have me stationed. the doors STAY.
probably. hehe.
i might do half doors with my factory doors.

[Shaggy]

whatcha need to do is keep those doors and make some tough half doors for offroading... ima gonna do it when i do my exocage this summer... i cant wait:D

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by Shaggy
whatcha need to do is keep those doors and make some tough half doors for offroading... ima gonna do it when i do my exocage this summer... i cant wait:D

well... the idea was sorta to just cut off all the frame work above the window base
viola! half doors
but i still have doors and functional windows...
then i make it so the windows roll up and meet weatherstrip on the cage
i'm an evil genius

[robertf03]

keep the doors

just take them off like the toyota folk do. and maybe throw a brace in there so its got some sort of cab stiffener, the hollowed out door shell probably won't be enough.

[bigFAWKINranger]

Originally posted by robertf03
keep the doors

just take them off like the toyota folk do. and maybe throw a brace in there so its got some sort of cab stiffener, the hollowed out door shell probably won't be enough.
no, not hollowed out- they'll be the same as now... just from the window frame up i'll cut the door pillars off...