View Full Version : Swamp Donkey Progess
Did you ever get your rear disc breaks set up... if not can i borrow a bracket to make a copy of it
yeah, you can borrow the bracket, but i leave tomorrow for Pagosa, so give me a call if you need it
Shaggy
01-05-2006, 03:06 PM
sweatness
uglyota
01-06-2006, 01:38 AM
yeah, you can borrow the bracket, but i leave tomorrow for Pagosa, so give me a call if you need it
you skiing? I'll be at Durango or Wolf Creek Saturday and Sunday.
Yeah i was at PS, Wolf Creek, from Friday-Friday, not much snow, but got 3 outta the 4 days skiiing was good.
The overpriced ORU knuckle with the crossover arm on it contacts the upper part of the axle C, thus the knuckle does not turn. I wouldn't mind this from a more moderatly priced part, but for the amount of $$, it needed to bolt on no modification required. I will have to grind about 1/8" out of the C and the arm. They are going to get a call tomorrow
pic is a little deceiving, there is no gap there
so Vilas reamed one knuckel from the top, and the other from the bottom. wow.
Shaggy
01-16-2006, 07:30 PM
did it screw it up?
Does anyoen have teh proper reaming tool to do this? I need to taper a hole to fit a 1tin Chevy TRE. I asked all the other machine shops in town (cooks, bvd, accurate, chops)
73bronco
02-01-2006, 09:09 PM
I've got two but one is pretty messed up and the other has a spot where the reamer wore down from using it too fast.
are they usable enough for one hole? Is it best to use it in a drill press?
my new go go gadget. Edge Evolution :D ....
william_ace
02-16-2006, 06:47 PM
how much does it help?
shifts ALOT better. better throttle response. Just filled up with 93 so I get to try out the Level 3 now.
Reckless
02-16-2006, 07:36 PM
I havent seen them like that for the gas engines yet. Cool though
73bronco
02-17-2006, 01:46 AM
that reamer should be good enough for another hole or two, its really meant to be used by hand though, thats why its messed up guess i'm a little too impatient
Could I give it a shot? I am kinda at the end of the rope on this deal, so if I could use/borrow it, that would be great. When could I pick it up?
73bronco
02-20-2006, 05:47 PM
sure, someone is usually here after 6
I will try to stop buy this afternoon.. I think I know where you live
I still have your reamer. I can bring it by whenever.
Anyways, the 95 knuckle is not going to work....I am having the hole in the original 93axle knuckle welded up....welder said he would fill it ith brass, then drill out and ream again.
I had the Vilas fook up "fixed" I took it to a friends welding shop off Colson (gooseneck rd area) and he filled it in with brass and did all sorts of other crap. He said words like vermiculiite?? and other big scary welding terms. It was cooled down in something too. It was all over my head, but the guy is super cool and really knew his ****. He explained that this was probably not something you would want to do to your DD, but seemed confident that it would be safe for offroad duty.
After I drill it out and ream it, what brass is left will act as a sleeve.
Shaggy
04-11-2006, 02:21 PM
hey have you messed with your disk brake setup yet. I was messing with mine the other day and the rotors didnt fit over the hubs. I got the same ones as you i think. let me know
Doug Krebs
04-11-2006, 04:23 PM
I had the Vilas fook up "fixed" I took it to a friends welding shop off Colson (gooseneck rd area) and he filled it in with brass and did all sorts of other crap. He said words like vermiculiite?? and other big scary welding terms. It was cooled down in something too. It was all over my head, but the guy is super cool and really knew his ****. He explained that this was probably not something you would want to do to your DD, but seemed confident that it would be safe for offroad duty.
After I drill it out and ream it, what brass is left will act as a sleeve.
That scares me...
AggieTJ2007
04-11-2006, 04:46 PM
i think it should work well, you just would want to check and make sure it is not wallowing out the hole. He can always go to heims later on
It will be fine.
I will need to borrow that reamer again for a little bit if no one is using it
Steering 90% complete. 1.5" DOm 1/4 wall with Chevy 1 ton DREs. The Ford knuckles must be a little thicker than the Chevy's b/c I had to notch down the castle nuts slightly to get the cotter through.
I ended up not using the brass filled knuckle. Eric found a cracked 60 in Tomball that I got for $50 and used the knuckle off it. I now have a small collection of 60 knuckles and shafts in the shed, all balljoint if anyone needs one...
-one driver's side reamed for Chevy from top, slider caliper, brass filled
-one untouched pass side slider caliper
-one drivers side reamed for Chevy from bottom but for bolt on caliper
My problem now is I can not fully turn left because the DRE on the stock pitman(mounted on top) hits the frame. I ordered a drop pitman today and will ream it for the Chevy DRE from the topside and I should have no problems except that the draglink will not be perfectly parallel to the tie rod. No biggie.
Next will be the brakes. My stock rear shoes are toast, and I have all the parts for the disc brake conversion but from what I hear from Tate, its will not be as easy as I hoped.
My other BIG problem is the transfer case is pretty much up in the floor board. I can not figure out why unless the trans x-member was bent upward. Something happend at K-Rocks last year. All of the bolts that secure the x-member to the frame are like loose. I really don't know, something has to be in a bind. I can't change the trans mount b/c I can not jack up on the trans enough before it hits the floor. I guess the easy fix is a BL :D
Does anyone have a parts 4x4 Ford around? I think I might need that x-member.
O, and my F150 torque converter failed causing some tranny damage at 30k. It was assuredly my dumbass fault, but I dont think the programmer helped.
Ryan, check your box.
fbronco86
07-20-2006, 12:10 PM
Steering 90% complete. 1.5" DOm 1/4 wall with Chevy 1 ton DREs. The Ford knuckles must be a little thicker than the Chevy's b/c I had to notch down the castle nuts slightly to get the cotter through.
I ended up not using the brass filled knuckle. Eric found a cracked 60 in Tomball that I got for $50 and used the knuckle off it. I now have a small collection of 60 knuckles and shafts in the shed, all balljoint if anyone needs one...
-one driver's side reamed for Chevy from top, slider caliper, brass filled
-one untouched pass side slider caliper
-one drivers side reamed for Chevy from bottom but for bolt on caliper
My problem now is I can not fully turn left because the DRE on the stock pitman(mounted on top) hits the frame. I ordered a drop pitman today and will ream it for the Chevy DRE from the topside and I should have no problems except that the draglink will not be perfectly parallel to the tie rod. No biggie.
Next will be the brakes. My stock rear shoes are toast, and I have all the parts for the disc brake conversion but from what I hear from Tate, its will not be as easy as I hoped.
My other BIG problem is the transfer case is pretty much up in the floor board. I can not figure out why unless the trans x-member was bent upward. Something happend at K-Rocks last year. All of the bolts that secure the x-member to the frame are like loose. I really don't know, something has to be in a bind. I can't change the trans mount b/c I can not jack up on the trans enough before it hits the floor. I guess the easy fix is a BL :D
Does anyone have a parts 4x4 Ford around? I think I might need that x-member.
O, and my F150 torque converter failed causing some tranny damage at 30k. It was assuredly my dumbass fault, but I dont think the programmer helped.
Ryan, check your box.
I would hook you up with mine off my old bronco but turns out I am not in the good ole US of A.
Prob easier to just make a new one. Mine is bent as well.
agjohn02
07-20-2006, 12:23 PM
drag rod end?
drag rod end?
oops, I meant drag link end. I think everyone calls them Chevy TREs, but I think they are actually used on the drag link of the old 1 ton Chevys
Sharpe
07-20-2006, 04:46 PM
oops, I meant drag link end. I think everyone calls them Chevy TREs, but I think they are actually used on the drag link of the old 1 ton Chevys
People call tie rod ends TRE's and drag link ends DLE's. If they have a long unthreaded area before the threads they are a DLE and if the threads go all the way up to the joint then they are a TRE. Alot of people run TRE's on their draglinks cause the unthreaded area on the DLE's has been known to bend but the DLE's have more range of motion so it just depends on what you need. I am running TRE's on the tie rod and DLE's on the draglink.
Well then I am running DLEs all around. It does look liek a weak link, but I shall find out.
agjohn02
07-20-2006, 04:55 PM
I am running TRE's on the tie rod and DLE's on the draglink.
thats a pretty good idea. i wonder why no one's ever thought of that?
Sharpe
07-20-2006, 05:12 PM
Well then I am running DLEs all around. It does look liek a weak link, but I shall find out.
Why are you running DLE's on the tierod? I've never seen anyone do that before, I doubt its any big deal though. On thing to note the that while TRE's and DLE's studs have the same taper (1.5" per foot I believe), the DLE's stud is larger in diameter.
BMFScout
07-20-2006, 05:50 PM
I run the ones off the boomerang part of the chevy steering. I guess that is the Drag link ends? That is my problem now with finding steering arms that aren't junk. The avalanche arms I have were designed to run with those, and I don't think anyone makes arms for those now. I guess I will have to have some made?
agjohn02
07-20-2006, 06:12 PM
id be willing to bet if you take a design to a machine shop its not that much to have them built. just take your avalanche arms in and see what they would charge you to copy them out of good material.
robertf03
07-20-2006, 06:50 PM
cut it with a bandsaw and I'll macheen it flat
I don't have any tapered reamers at work.
Doug Krebs
07-23-2006, 10:15 PM
I run the ones off the boomerang part of the chevy steering. I guess that is the Drag link ends? That is my problem now with finding steering arms that aren't junk. The avalanche arms I have were designed to run with those, and I don't think anyone makes arms for those now. I guess I will have to have some made?
Which arms are you talking about? 44 arms? I'm starting to use the EDM more and I'm getting more comfortable. It cuts tapers, so no need for a ream.
UPS delivered this today...TSM disc brake conversion. I am going to start on it this weekend. I am goign to try to make it to the meeting tomorrow with my automatic trans brake (read: go slow and throw it in park to stop)
agjohn02
09-05-2006, 11:36 PM
Which arms are you talking about? 44 arms? I'm starting to use the EDM more and I'm getting more comfortable. It cuts tapers, so no need for a ream.
hows the surface finish on the cuts? pretty good i assume. did you get my PM?
savvyaggie
10-02-2006, 10:38 AM
nice!!! U got brakes now!!!
Mmmmm, disc brakes good. I still have a little air in the system, but it stops very well.
I also cut off the tailpipe after pluging it up and kinking it almost closed at 47. I need to get a dump pipe welded on.
It was nose diving pretty bad under hard braking, so i got some new Ranchos warrantied at oriellys with a 3 yr receipt.
It still will not start at the key. It will start up just fine if I jumper the solenoid. I have replaced the solenoid and the ignition swith on the column, but it still will not start with the key. Any thoughts?
Forgot to mention. The TSM brackets are nice and everything turned out well, but I gotta say that the instructions sucked balls. For the lines, I used all the hard lines from a 99+ superduty and the 2 soft lines from the rear of 2 different superdutys, drivers side only. No leaks.
StevenAg03
10-05-2006, 09:09 PM
It still will not start at the key. It will start up just fine if I jumper the solenoid. I have replaced the solenoid and the ignition swith on the column, but it still will not start with the key. Any thoughts?
check the pieces in the column that actually make the truck start. i forget exactly what it is called, but when you turn the key, it pushes the piece down to make the truck start. i had this piece break on my truck and it was a pain in the ass to fix. cheap part , but it necessitated tearing the column apart to fix.
agjohn02
10-05-2006, 09:17 PM
cheap part , but it necessitated tearing the column apart to fix.
...which sucks
hmm. With the ignition switch removed I manually pressed it down and still nothing, so that leads me to think that it is not something 'before' the switch, but something between the switch and the solenoid. I forgot to mention that in the previous point.
Test light reveals no power to the solenoid via the little red wire.
StevenAg03
10-05-2006, 09:29 PM
so you know which part im refering to? mine was broken down in the column and you could still push it from the top side. i think if you tear the bottom of the column apart, you should just be able to push the rod and it will start.
And John, I havent forgotten about your strap. I got them apart and it is in my truck. I can leave it at the shop, or call me and I can bring it over.
so you know which part im refering to? mine was broken down in the column and you could still push it from the top side. i think if you tear the bottom of the column apart, you should just be able to push the rod and it will start.
Maybe. When you turn the key, a rod moves downward along the column and 'engages' or presses the ignition swtich down.(sends power to the red wire that goes to the solenoid) I took the switch off and pressed it down with a screwdriver and it still would not start. Are we talking about the same thing?
StevenAg03
10-05-2006, 09:36 PM
yeah i am pretty sure we are. but just because you can move it at the ignition switch doesnt mean it isnt broken.
one question, you can actually start it with the solenoid or just turn it over? when you turn the key on, does everything turn on like normal?
agjohn02
10-05-2006, 09:39 PM
And John, I havent forgotten about your strap. I got them apart and it is in my truck. I can leave it at the shop, or call me and I can bring it over.
no problem, maybe at the next meeting.
When I turn the key to the ON postion, I get all power. Fuel pump, radio, everything. When I try to make the motor run, nothing. Motor does not crank, nothing. I put a screwdriver to the solenoid and it starts up, I drive it around, no problem. But if I turn it off, then I have to pop the hood and ghetto-start it.
I dropped the column down to replace the switch and when I turn the key, the rod does move down like it is suppose to.
uglyota
10-05-2006, 09:43 PM
could your battery be a little weak? That could cause the circuit through the switch to the solenoid to cause just enough drop for it not to start. Make sure the switch is actually giving you voltage at the solenoid wire, if it is, wire in a relay so you get a good 40 amps to the solenoid. It's a good idea anyway
agjohn02
10-05-2006, 09:44 PM
check continuity across the switch when you press it down.
StevenAg03
10-05-2006, 09:44 PM
hmmm...cant remember if mine did the same thing or didnt do anything at all.
StevenAg03
10-05-2006, 09:45 PM
could your battery be a little weak? That could cause the circuit through the switch to the solenoid to cause just enough drop for it not to start. Make sure the switch is actually giving you voltage at the solenoid wire, if it is, wire in a relay so you get a good 40 amps to the solenoid. It's a good idea anyway
the solenoid would at least click if it was a low battery...if it was so low that it wouldnt do anything, then the electrical stuff wouldnt come on at all.
agjohn02
10-05-2006, 09:46 PM
could your battery be a little weak? That could cause the circuit through the switch to the solenoid to cause just enough drop for it not to start. Make sure the switch is actually giving you voltage at the solenoid wire, if it is, wire in a relay so you get a good 40 amps to the solenoid. It's a good idea anyway
yes, you just described the "clicky starter fix". my scout has this problem. im too lazy to fix it. has something to do with 33 yr old wiring.
uglyota
10-05-2006, 09:48 PM
holy crap you three guys made like ten posts in this thread while I was posting that. I'm getting rusty...
StevenAg03
10-05-2006, 09:50 PM
i must comment that i never thought of adding a relay in and supplying the solenoid directly from the battery. wouldnt take much wire on a ford since the solenoid is right next to the battery.
uglyota
10-05-2006, 09:53 PM
relays rock!
Thanks guys. Unfortunatly, I am pretty useless when it comes to electrical lingo and how it all works. I assume by continuity, you mean does the wire have the same voltage before the switch as it does after?
The battery is chinche, but has been good thus far. Like I said, it fires right up every time at the solenoid and all power works. I ran the radio for several hours the other day and it started right up (via screwdriver)
sasquatch
10-05-2006, 09:57 PM
the starter solenoid is basically a relay. why would you wire a relay to power a relay? put a meter on the positive small terminal on the solenoid and have somebody crank it. if you get no voltage you have a wiring problem somewhere in the column or dash
StevenAg03
10-05-2006, 09:57 PM
john(brown) i think its actually called an actuator rod. pull one at work and then compare it to yours and where it should end. i have a feeling that you will have to pull the column apart anyway. one easy check would be to check the voltage at the column plug. if your not getting coltage there either then it has to be something within the column.
StevenAg03
10-05-2006, 09:58 PM
the starter solenoid is basically a relay. why would you wire a relay to power a relay
shorter wires...
StevenAg03
10-05-2006, 10:00 PM
Thanks guys. Unfortunatly, I am pretty useless when it comes to electrical lingo and how it all works. I assume by continuity, you mean does the wire have the same voltage before the switch as it does after?
The battery is chinche, but has been good thus far. Like I said, it fires right up every time at the solenoid and all power works. I ran the radio for several hours the other day and it started right up (via screwdriver)
by continuity he means is the wire continuous. you should have a continuity setting on your voltmeter. unplug the column harness and find which wire runs to the solenoid. then get a long wire and hook one end to the input of the starter solenoid. run the other into the cab so that you can easily hook up both ends to the voltmeter.
clear as mud?
uglyota
10-05-2006, 10:01 PM
continuity means you lose resistance when you turn the switch on, because turning the switch completes the circuit. Put your multimeter on ohms, like 10k or something, and it should say NC (no continuity) or 1 or a really high number when you measure across the switch with it off. With it on it should read a low number, when you touch the two voltmeter leads together it should read 0, or "no resistance"
You already said the test light doesn't show voltage at the wire going into the solenoid when you turn the switch, so now check if the switch is getting power. If it is, you probably got another bad switch.
edit: dam you wolverton
and robert you are using a relay to activate the solenoid because the solenoid needs more than the 2 or so amps that old corroded wiring and switch can give it, but the small relay can activate on those 2 amps and give the solenoid 40 amps
sasquatch
10-05-2006, 10:07 PM
why wouldn't you just fix the old wiring/fire hazard so everything is kosher? are you sure the solenoid needs 40 amps to work? its just a little electromagnet in there
uglyota
10-05-2006, 10:08 PM
you decrease your fire hazard by lowering the load on the old wiring and switch. And it's cheaper than a Painless harness
sasquatch
10-05-2006, 10:09 PM
screw painless, grab a spool of wire and twist yourself into weird positions running new wires. the relay idea would work just seems janky to me
uglyota
10-05-2006, 10:10 PM
gee sounds like fun...I'll take the relay :flipoff2:
eight
10-05-2006, 10:12 PM
the starter solenoid is basically a relay. why would you wire a relay to power a relay? put a meter on the positive small terminal on the solenoid and have somebody crank it. if you get no voltage you have a wiring problem somewhere in the column or dash
It takes some power to run the solenoid. Sometimes the wire through the column and all drops too much voltage to power the solenoid. So you just use that wire to power a relay that powers the solenoid. It's common on samurais, I once installed one.
But that's not the problem here.
Here's my sure way of finding electrical problems, or at least easy one like this. Get your test light, its faster than a voltage meter. Find a wire related to the problem that should have power. If it doesn't have power work towards the battery, if it has power, go the other way. Your problem will be somewhere between where you have power and where you don't.
You got power to this switch yall are talking about? If not just skip it and go towards the battery. If you do have power to it, check if you get power to the other side of it when you press the switch.
StevenAg03
10-05-2006, 10:27 PM
Your problem will be somewhere between where you have power and where you don't.
good job captain obvious... :flipoff2:
on another note...i found said part...bronco graveyard calls it an Ignition Actuator. the one pictured says for 89-91, but the part looks the same in my truck...
AggieTJ2007
10-05-2006, 11:37 PM
just be cool and easy and use a relay and a push button switch for the start, it makes it like a race car
I am going to take some pictures right now of this rod to confirm what we are talking about because that picture doesn't look familiar. BTW, this all started when I was buried in the 47 pond trying to pull Junior out....which makes me think mud fawked something up.
ps, i am way to drunk to dicipher this electrical jiberjabber, but i will read this again tomorrow and try to fugre it out. Thanks for all the help guys.
agjohn02
10-06-2006, 12:09 AM
ps, i am way to drunk to dicipher this electrical jiberjabber
I PITY DA FOO'
TMatheaus
10-06-2006, 12:27 AM
i had that damn pewter thing go out in my truck, you could start it but had to pull the coil wire to kill it, it was a pita to replace, that little piece is pretty cheap, but if you have a tilt wheel you need some special tool for the springs in there
RCcola55
10-06-2006, 10:00 AM
those are the biggest pain in the ass to replace i had to do one on the bronco couple of years ago
AggieTJ2007
10-06-2006, 10:54 AM
push button....push button...push button...
Sorry for not getting pics. I busted out the test light and had power before and after the switch, but it lost power in the loom somewhere between the switch and the firewall grommet on the passenger side. I temporarily ran a jumper wire and that has got it starting for now, until I have sometime to figure it out. Again though, thanks for the advice.
Any thing wrong with running fuel injection hose all the way from the tank to the motor? It would be alot easier than the crappy plastic line.
Sharpe
11-19-2006, 11:24 PM
Nope, I have hose running all the way from the tank to the motor. I need to re-route it outside the frame to get it away from the exhaust though.
agjohn02
11-19-2006, 11:29 PM
yep, braided hose from the tank to the fuel rail. best way to do it. fewer leak paths.
Reckless
11-20-2006, 01:07 AM
Steel line, go jank one out of a truck, straighten it out and volia!
Steel line, go jank one out of a truck, straighten it out and volia!
rubber fuel injection hose seem ALOT easier though
StevenAg03
11-20-2006, 11:59 AM
john, just run the high pressure FI rubber line. it isnt that expensive and is easy. if you want more protection agienst abrasion, then put some wire loom around it. otherwise call it good. thats what i did on my truck when the headers melted the plastic ones...
Could not go to Clayton, so went to a buddies ranch. Flopped it, broke a weld on my d-link, bent an es2027 tie rod, broke a 60 stub, somehoe go a bad exhaust leak, alot of body damage....
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466847/fullsize/waterfall-trail-(3).jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466848/fullsize/img_0495.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466846/fullsize/jb-rollover-(3).jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466844/fullsize/jb-rollover-(1).jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/466843/fullsize/jb-airtime-(2).jpg
uglyota
12-18-2006, 10:39 PM
is that Long's? Looks like fun!
Shaggy
12-19-2006, 11:58 AM
you need a stub... i have several
stx4wheeler
12-20-2006, 08:50 AM
hey john have you had a chance to tear into it? did it mushroom the spindle like everyone says is so notorious with 60 carnage?
havent torn into it...what doyou been mushroom?
fbronco86
12-20-2006, 05:05 PM
havent torn into it...what doyou been mushroom?
When the short shaft breaks it messes up the spindle most of the time. It just expands the spindle a little.
CheapJeep
12-20-2006, 05:57 PM
Looks like you had a good time. I saw you pulling into C.S. as I was headed home on Sunday.
BTW- I saw Aaron's vette all trashed in his driveway what the hell happened?
Looks like you had a good time. I saw you pulling into C.S. as I was headed home on Sunday.
BTW- I saw Aaron's vette all trashed in his driveway what the hell happened?
he can't handle that kind of power. That poor poor c5. Its has been wrecked like that at least 3 times in the past 1-2 years.
CheapJeep
12-20-2006, 06:46 PM
It looked pretty nasty from the road, messed up the passenger side pretty good.
Found out some causes of my breakage. The exhaust leak is coming from the back of the head. I capped off the EGR hole with a bolt that apparently backed out (possibly due to increased vibrations from new solid motor mounts). THe d-link ends bent again and the d-link itselft broke because on passenger side compression, the d-link hits the bottom of the frame. More lift would help this :D I have not yet pulled the stub out.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/467123/fullsize/img_0496.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/467124/fullsize/img_0497.jpg
Today I replaced the damaged front shackles with F450 shackles. I also installed a new taillight that will more than likely suffer the same fate as the one before. I srop it off for the cage build later this week
Also fixed leaking rear axle seal.
For TCC:
cage
sterling rock ring
maybe hummer rims, but not likely
RCcola55
02-25-2007, 07:50 PM
whos doing the cage?
Greg Grosz The same guy who has done my doors, sliders, skid, and tire carrier modifcations. I need some new seats too
stx4wheeler
02-25-2007, 08:55 PM
here is the sterling rock ring i made, it wasnt to hard to do. i used 3/16 plate i think and some half inch solid bar, bent the bar on a vise with a torch and made a template of the cover edges and cut it out with the torch. it has taken a couple good slams and hasnt bent at all.
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/dana-60-swap/sff_021
CheapJeep
02-26-2007, 12:16 AM
Cool, can't wait to see how the cage turns out. You live a few houses down from a buddy of mine, I past by your house earlier today and saw you working on the bronco.
Cool, can't wait to see how the cage turns out. You live a few houses down from a buddy of mine, I past by your house earlier today and saw you working on the bronco.
yeah, I heard your roving gang of diesels pass by. :)
Does the ram usually attach to a drag link or a tie rod? If tie rod, would it be prudent to attach the ram to my stock 1ton Chevy tie rod? Any feelings or comments about the Redneck Ram setup from WTO?
JeepPhisherman
02-26-2007, 12:33 PM
Does the ram usually attach to a drag link or a tie rod? If tie rod, would it be prudent to attach the ram to my stock 1ton Chevy tie rod? Any feelings or comments about the Redneck Ram setup from WTO?
Everyone I ever hear from about WTO, has problems with their ram. Hell, Frick is a prime example.
Most assist applications I see, have mounted to the tie rod and then either a mount off of the diff or the tube.
agjohn02
02-26-2007, 12:33 PM
definately tie rod. you wont know if it'll bend the stock one till you try it. just be sure to mount it in the middle of the tie rod. ask jimmy about this, he knows more about column buckling than i do. just wait till i finish this advanced solid mechanics class jimmy, then ill get you!
CRaSHnBuRN
02-26-2007, 11:46 PM
skip the WTO stuff and build you own setup, at least on the ram. Much cheaper and easier. Look at surplus center and find a ram that fits your needs. If a hiem or two is needed, its pretty simple to add them yourself.
TxCruzr
02-26-2007, 11:51 PM
Everyone I ever hear from about WTO, has problems with their ram. Hell, Frick is a prime example
Mine works :gigem:
stx4wheeler
02-27-2007, 12:07 AM
i loved the service that matt has, and he did an awesome job on the box rebuild as well, but when it comes to the ram it sucked, i broke it three times, once i fixed it myself instead of them fixing it i had no problems with it until i bent it. Basically if you are lazy have him build the box&tap, then go get a psc ram. Also i wouldnt run the ram with crappy stock steering, that is mostly the cause for two of the three breaks in the west texas off-road ram.
thanks for the info. Redneck Ram is $500, which is what I was kinda expecting to spend, and I have a spare box to send off. But I am not sure on my mounting situation.
Checked the fluid in my reliable AOD today. At Katemcy, I backed it off thr trailer and somehow a trans cooler line popped off. Easy fix and I put about a quart back in it. (thanks steven's dad and Sharpe) It was slow to engage gears all day. I ended up putting 2 more quarts in it todya to get it to the right level. Now I have a nice whine coming from what sounds like a front pump. Damn.
stx4wheeler
02-27-2007, 12:09 AM
i mounted mine mext to the pumpkin on the diff housing.
CRaSHnBuRN
02-27-2007, 09:17 AM
thanks for the info. Redneck Ram is $500, which is what I was kinda expecting to spend
ouch, that is the ram, hoses and tapped box, right? I have less than $150 in mine. Thats a ram with a hiem on one end, hoses, fittings, and the cost of a tap, but I tapped the box myself
BMFScout
02-27-2007, 10:13 AM
I think my PSC setup was around $800 maybe. That was them rebuilding/hotrodding my Scout Box, All the Hoses and fittings, a kickass pump, aluminum remote reservoir (with an extry bung for when I get around to adding the Hydro-assist brakes), ram and mounts. Expensive? Yes. It does however work well. I've heard people say the ram is junk. I wonder if people mount the ram correctly? The ram should only have compressive force on it, why would it snap mounts or shafts or whatever? My hypothesis is that they are mounted funky and they get in a bind. I'm no engineer like John Cox, but I figger stuff in my head reel gud. :flipoff2: Whatever you do I would add a big reservoir and a small tranny cooler to the low side to keep it happy. The one thing that I noticed on the PSC reservoir is that it's vented on the top, so when I get sideways it liked to leak out the top. I fixed this by having my buddy fabricate a catch can with vaccuum tube, duct tape, zip ties, and a Keystone Light can.
stx4wheeler
02-27-2007, 10:36 AM
the kits are super nice because you dont have to fawk with tapping and rebuilding your box, all you have to do is bolt it all back on, so i say if you have got the extra dough just spring for a kit or do a partial kit with box rebuild and tap job, i think my wto kit only ran like 350 or 400 but that was like three years ago, plus i have heard that wto is making a better ram these days, so this could be associated with the cost.
davido
02-27-2007, 11:01 AM
I like WTO, but I've not been that happy with their product. I have an early one. The ram leaks like crazy. I really need a better pump to drive it. Mine is worse than manual steering right now. After seeing how well PSC's perform and how they overnighted one to Ryan when we were in CO, I would to that route. Expensive, yes. But it's only a $100 premium (or so) over the "homegrown ones" and it's a more complete package, not just a box & ram. The reservoirs are $100+ and it's hard to value the pump when the alternative just doesn't seem to work that well.
Doug Krebs
02-27-2007, 11:26 AM
The reservoirs are $100+ and it's hard to value the pump when the alternative just doesn't seem to work that well.
What kinda of resevoir? You can get aluminum one's from speedway for like $20.
agjohn02
02-27-2007, 11:29 AM
Mine is worse than manual steering right now.
power steering pumps dont work well without an engine?
agjohn02
02-27-2007, 11:31 AM
What kinda of resevoir? You can get aluminum one's from speedway for like $20.
the PSC reservoirs are ribbed for her pleasure, have an internal filter, a vent and anti-foaming baffles. the $20 jobs are just an empty can.
davido
02-27-2007, 11:36 AM
OK, I stand corrected. I never bought one because they were so expensive. I've even looked on ebay. The lowest I had found was $75 and I always missed them.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com
Thanks. I'd still go with a PSC kit though. I'm probably going to end up buying a pump from them at least. The most homebrew I would do would be a:
- 3rd party ram - lots to be had out there that are plenty strong. Just takes shopping.
- tap a stock box - because that doesn't seem hard and there doesn't seem to be much disadvantage to it.
- buy a speedway reservoir - because it's cheap
- a PSC pump - the stock modifieds don't seem to match up in my experience
I wouldn't buy a WTO setup again. Sorry to hijack your thread JB. I just looked up at the subject and realized that thread I was in.
I have two buddies with FSBs and they have the PSC setup and love it. I just checked their website and the full kit is $1050. It is very complete, but, and I am for sure worth it, but out of my price range right now.
Thanks for the input :cheers:
Shaggy
03-01-2007, 11:23 AM
i got mine for free... was planning on going full hydro until i won it at tcc a couple years back... havent put it on but the full hydro kit i wanted was 2600 so i am happy with my purchase so far
not close to being done, so don't critique it yet.
Hard for me to describe, but there will be half-halos extending off of the main hoop and two bars each going to the corners. There will be some sheetmetal work too. I ordered some Corbeaus from offroadoverstock.com ($159 a piece and free shipping) and they will be mounted to my stock sliders, then to tube running across the floor.
I am really tempted to get the double beadlocks and 39s, but not sure I can do it all for TCC.
CRaSHnBuRN
03-19-2007, 11:15 AM
Is that all that greg got done over spring break? Tell him to get off his ass and get to work :flipoff2:
DRAGOONRANCH
03-19-2007, 01:53 PM
ouch
agjohn02
03-19-2007, 01:55 PM
i thought a 6.5" radius would visually look bigger than a 5.5". guess not, looks good.
Not very good pics, but it all should fit under the hardtop. We decided against the rear halo as it would have hit any rear passengers head. Still alot to do on the rear and the front hasn't been started yet.
It also decided to leak mass quantities of trans fluid while sitting in his driveway. So yeah , gotta fix that.
got new seats too. 159 a piece from offroadoverstock.com Corbeau fixed back in black vinyl and cloth
some progress pics. I also fixed the transmission leak
CheapJeep
04-07-2007, 04:23 PM
Looks good John. :gigem:
AggieTJ2007
04-08-2007, 10:02 AM
thats some rusty ass tube
sasquatch
04-08-2007, 01:04 PM
its just surface rust... what tube are you using for the cage?
AggieTJ2007
04-08-2007, 03:16 PM
yeah but surface rust still jacks up the bender, i won't put tube with any rust in my bender
CRaSHnBuRN
04-10-2007, 04:47 AM
yeah but surface rust still jacks up the bender, i won't put tube with any rust in my bender
yeah, but it isn't his bender. I'm kinda surprised greg would use that rusty of tube in his bender
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/507639/fullsize/img_0212.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/507640/fullsize/img_0213.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/507641/fullsize/img_0216.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/507642/fullsize/img_0217.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/507643/fullsize/img_0218.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/507644/fullsize/img_0220.jpg
Greg is welding it up tonight and is going to paint it. It still needs the dash bar and the seats bars and new seats put in, but it will be on the trailer Thursday night.
I got the new drivers leaf in too.
Reckless
04-22-2007, 08:13 PM
Still needs bigger tires :flipoff2:
since we are showing old bronco pics.....this makes me sad
RCcola55
04-23-2007, 11:16 PM
your **** is wiizzek :flipoff2:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/515023/fullsize/img_0317.jpg
the square tube across the floor ties into the body mounts.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/515024/fullsize/img_0319.jpg
more k-rocks damage...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/515025/fullsize/img_0320.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/515026/fullsize/img_0321.jpg
The cage moved alot in relation to the body at TCC, I hope the new seat "frame" will stop a little of that. But hte frame and body on this thing flex so much, I do not know if it will
agjohn02
05-11-2007, 02:36 PM
The cage moved alot in relation to the body at TCC, I hope the new seat "frame" will stop a little of that. But hte frame and body on this thing flex so much, I do not know if it will
yeah, mashed my hand pretty good once. just be sure to tell you passengers where not to hold on or put some designated grab bars in there.
Today I pulled the t-case and extension housing and fixed my trans leak hopefully for good. I almost dropped the damn 1345 on my head twice.
It seems that every time I wheel this bad boy hard, every bold on it loosens up. The bolts that hold my rear shafts in especially. They are always loose after wheeling, which causes gear lube to leak out. I pulled them out, use some "Right-Stuff" and lock-tite and put it all back together
stx4wheeler
05-19-2007, 10:02 AM
me and ryan also have problem with the rear shaft bolts walking out, i need to lock tite them as well
Doug Krebs
05-19-2007, 11:06 PM
weird, I've never had my 14 bolt leak from the shafts.
DRAGOONRANCH
05-20-2007, 09:45 AM
I didn't think fricks was a 14, more of the 10.25 variety. eh....
stx4wheeler
05-20-2007, 11:50 AM
si, 10.25, mine never leaked from the shafts, but they do get loose.
fbronco86
05-21-2007, 07:08 AM
si, 10.25, mine never leaked from the shafts, but they do get loose.
I never had the shafts on my f250 loosen up.
What are the drawbacks to a square tube driveshaft on a trail only rig? I had to pull my rear shaft to fix the leak and I spent a good 30 minutes hammering off the yoke. It was very rusty and nasty probably from spending the night stuck in a mudhole in Alto.
I have NEVER had a problem and never broken a u-joint with this driveshaft, but have seen Ryan's twist and spit caps several times :flipoff2: so I need to know if it worth fixing what I got or gay it up with some square tube. My current yoke is a 1330 going to 1350 on the Sterling.
Reckless
05-21-2007, 02:51 PM
if it aint broke dont fix it
forgot to say....the yoke will not go back on. The 'glide-coat' all came off. In other words, there is no slip in my slip-yoke
Reckless
05-21-2007, 03:11 PM
more grease?
Sharpe
05-21-2007, 03:22 PM
Ryan's driveshaft broke because he was too cheap to buy heavier material. My front shaft is 2" 1/4 wall inner and 2 1/2" 3/16 wall outer and it hasnt broken in 2 years of rock bashing. I'd go for it. At high speeds it will vibrate like a mofo but thats not usually an issue anyway. You have to grease them almost every trip too but thats no biggie, you could put grease zerks in it like Eric did. I wouldnt do a square shaft for the rear though, unless your truck sees absolutely zero street time.
RCcola55
05-21-2007, 04:04 PM
my rear shaft is a high angle shaft with like 10 in of slip and 1350 u joints, my front shaft twisted due to me being cheap like sharpe said, but the only reason i break caps and ujoints is because of my kick ass axle wrap and it a 1310 joint.
but i agree with sharpe only use square in the front.
Well this is for the rear, so I need to figure out a new option.
Repairing my front main leak for the past couple days. I drained the oil and there was alot of coolant in it. Like more than normal. I hope its not a head gasket.
Side note, the other day when I fixed the trans leak and put the t-case back in, I refilled the trans up with fluid with the truck running, got in it, and shifted through the gears a little bit, but it wouldn't move and it would grind like a mofo when I shifted back into reverse or park.. I seriously sat there for 20minutes before I realized that I hadn't yet put the rear driveshaft in. Thats my dumbass moment of the week
uglyota
05-22-2007, 10:28 PM
how much coolant in your oil is normal?
seats and cage look pimp. Time for some narrowing? :D
Bought some H1s. Of course they need all the necessary work to fit though.
agjohn02
05-24-2007, 11:34 AM
sweet!
sweet!
You uhh want to help me out with all the recentering? :D
Got most of the front of the motro back together but said **** it and starting working on a little graduation present....
The winch touches the trans cooler, but I was able to fix that with homemade rubber spacer. Besides that, its was a super clean kit and everything went together nicely.
Drawbacks to the winch are that it is a special short drum xd9000 made for this kit, so it only has 50ft of cable, and you also have to pop the hood to access the control pack, but I do not plan on using the winch too often.....but I am headed for a couple of weeks in SW Colorado soon, so it will be nice to have it.
I am going to carry some chain or extra length of cable in the toolobox.
colman
05-24-2007, 09:40 PM
looks nice and clean
agjohn02
05-24-2007, 09:45 PM
You uhh want to help me out with all the recentering? :D
usa6x6 centers? if you want 3 5/8" backspacing, sure. if you want anything other than that, no way, ive had my fill.
let me know when you get ready to do it either way and what centers you are going to use. ill have some good pointers for you. hindsight is 20/20 you know.
savvyaggie
05-24-2007, 11:04 PM
looks good...
stx4wheeler
05-25-2007, 01:08 PM
what size bfg mud did you put on the grey truck
same size tires as the ATs I had before 285/70/17
Broke a front driveshaft u-joint in SPring. My new problem is steering. I can not remember when it happend, but I lost all power steering. I got a workout the rest of the day unitl I broke the u-joint, then I could steer just fine...... So steering good in 2wd, steering bad in 4wd. Whats up with that? Same thing happenend in Katemcy and I muscled it for about an hour and then all worked well again.
Ideas? I am thinking somethings in a bind or my locker is acting strange.
BroncoJo
06-03-2007, 11:21 PM
Sounds like your locker is not unlocking.
colman
06-03-2007, 11:26 PM
what locker do you have?
Wheeled at BVORR today. Blew another bead and rolled it on the pass. side, but was able to drive out of it. Getting the H1s and hydro-asist are next on the list.
The steering in 4wd was fine too. Suggesting on itermintent power steering? Its almost like the belt is slipping on the pulley when it is wet b/c of course it is dry today
agjohn02
06-24-2007, 07:56 PM
saw you drive by while eating dinner @ cazadores. looks like your spare is about to fall off.
took it out to general sams today and wheeled for about an hour until i broke my finger. I hit rut and the steering wheel spun hard a broke my pinky. I spent 2 hours at the Med getting it fixed. typing with one hand sucks
agjohn02
07-01-2007, 01:10 AM
that sucks! hydro assist time?
RCcola55
07-01-2007, 01:20 AM
bring me your box ill show you how
Jackasic
07-01-2007, 09:23 AM
were your fingers inside the wheel? Normaly you hear of thumbs, pinky is a new one. At least they didn't have to sew it back on. ;)
DRAGOONRANCH
07-02-2007, 12:07 PM
bring me your box ill show you how
so you gonna tap his box for him?!?! :rainbow:
:flipoff2:
were your fingers inside the wheel? Normaly you hear of thumbs, pinky is a new one. At least they didn't have to sew it back on. ;)
i was just cruising down a watery trail not really paying attention when i hit a deep rut under the water on the drivers side. water was coming in the cab. When I hit it, the wheel spun hard. some how the pinky got in the way. i actually broke the bone in my hand (boxer fracture). I almost got stuck b/c i stopped and screamed like a girl. Some nice atv guys helped me get it strapped back on the trailer
preview. THese are the copperhead rings just resting on the old wheels. I got the h1 wheels blasted today, hopefully can get them all put together in the next week
AggieTJ2007
07-27-2007, 08:20 PM
those are going too look sweet
DRAGOONRANCH
07-27-2007, 09:34 PM
x 2
RCcola55
07-29-2007, 06:52 PM
:rainbow: :flipoff2:
AggieTJ2007
07-30-2007, 04:17 PM
:rainbow: :flipoff2:
you just wish you had rims that looked that cool
I installed (read: zip tied to cage) some $4 front speakers and fixed the rears. IT BUMPS :gigem: Hey Ryan, what does your stereo sound like :flipoff2:
Is there some special thread pitch to the bolt holes in the block for the motor mounts? (86ish 302) I have solid mounts from JBG and I continually have the bolts backing out even with locktite and lock washers. I am not using the original bolts. Are they some sort of special tapered bolt? I think it is 3/8" I drove it home from the store the other day with no bolts holding hte motor in.
My H1s are all blasted and ready for some welding hopefully tomorrow. The guys that blasted them also of course blasted the beadlock studs. Should I paint these studs/threads? Does anyone know where I can find the NEW beadlock studs? I can not find them in any Dorman/Motormite book.
I used longer 7/16" bolts and tapped 2 of the 4 engine mount holes in the block today.. It sucked doing this with the motor in, bu tit is good now.
Hey John, I found these wheel studs that I think might work, but as you can see in the picture, they are slighly shorter. You would also have to grind a little bit off the side of the head to fit into the wheel. THe knurl though is dead on and fits nice and tight in the wheel(once you grind the head of course) Down side is they sell in a set of 10 and are $32 for the set. $100+ in studs is no bueno. Dorman # 610-298
agjohn02
08-01-2007, 09:27 PM
screw it, we'll run a die over the ones you have and paint em. they'll work fine.
My camera blows, but wanted to post some additions. PolyPerformance grab handles came in today. Also made some stainless steel boat beerholders work :gigem:
Got a TSC toolbox of craigslist for 75. Secured it to the cage with some exhaust clamps.
I traded Cox some parts for some welding so the wheels are all done and ready for paint and mounting. Thanks alot.
Got this in the mail today. It is for my F150. Due to the hidden style design, you have to pop the hood to hook up the controller, which is kinda a pain.
The panel is a little bigger than I expected, but it really is of nice quality. I am going to mount it to the left of the column and a little bit down, so it wont be to obvious.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/563295/fullsize/img_0514.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/563296/fullsize/img_0515.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/563297/fullsize/img_0516.jpg
I went with blue "metal speck" paint. It matches fairly well, but I havent seen them in the daylight yet. Mounting this ****ers is hard work. The overall combo is almost 150lbs.
DRAGOONRANCH
09-15-2007, 12:18 AM
looks b!tchin
Sharpe
09-16-2007, 04:56 PM
The hole for the valve stem didnt feck up the ballancing?
from the run to 47 last sunday...
The hole for the valve stem didnt feck up the ballancing?
Balancing? No balancing on this rig....I ran it up to 30-40mph, and yeah it might shake a little bit, but I am not trying to drive this thing expcept onto the trailer
A front bumper/winch and Redeck ram are next on the list, but hte new trailer put a hold on that for a while. We are planning on the Halloween run at Shiloh on Oct. 20 though.
TxCruzr
09-28-2007, 09:12 PM
The hole for the valve stem didnt feck up the ballancing?
If anything it might help. You should see all the weights, courtesy of discount's free rotate and balance :D , on my wheels and they're still out of balance. Every now and then they'll wobble a tad at around 65-70 but not bad.
The gray and blue on the wheels looks sweet :cool:
agjohn02
09-28-2007, 09:32 PM
those look bangin'. i missed the post when you first got them done. been wondering what was keeping you.
AggieTJ2007
09-29-2007, 10:10 AM
you should see all of the weights on the inside of my wheels, one of them has almost 1.5 lbs on the inside of it
but they didn't vibrate at all at 75/80 mph
colman
10-21-2007, 08:11 PM
are you running an internal beadlock. i can't decide whether i want to cut down the magnesium ones or get pvc ones fpr my h1's
are you running an internal beadlock. i can't decide whether i want to cut down the magnesium ones or get pvc ones fpr my h1's
I am running the inserts from USA 6x6. They are plastic. WHeeled them hard this weekend at 8psi. and never had a problem.
davido
10-21-2007, 09:19 PM
If you're worried about the beadlock then your tires aren't big enough. ;)
Doug Krebs
10-21-2007, 10:24 PM
I am running the inserts from USA 6x6. They are plastic. WHeeled them hard this weekend at 8psi. and never had a problem.
any reason you didn't go lower? I thought most people with double beadlocks ran between 0 and 4
eight
10-22-2007, 12:13 PM
Too little pressure will let the wheel hit the rock through the tire, causing the tire to be no good. With his driving style I wouldn't go much lower. I only run 6-8 in the jeep and it's a fair amount lighter.
Too little pressure will let the wheel hit the rock through the tire, causing the tire to be no good. With his driving style I wouldn't go much lower. I only run 6-8 in the jeep and it's a fair amount lighter.
my driving style huh? My K-Rocks style and Shiloh style are completly different though :beer: :beer:
It is currently under a tarp behind a barn in La Grange. It is pretty fecked up. The motor overheated 4-5 times in Alto. I have no idea why The starter gear is ****ed. the passenger side fender is ****ed. It is running on the spare and I need a new SX. And a stock tie rod is on it. I need a break from it before I go back and fix stuff.
Maybe a new project....thinking Toyota or maybe buy the camo s10 at Cardoc and build it.
I have thought about tubing about the Bronco, but I really like the idea of keeping the fullsize appearance to it and keeping it recognizable as a Bronco. We'll see.
It is back home now. I put a starter on it and it starts and runs, but has no balls at all. I think the motor is toast.
sad...
RCcola55
12-28-2007, 08:10 PM
take all the cool parts znd build a ranger like me
colman
12-29-2007, 01:34 AM
what motor is in it, i may have a line on a 5.0 for cheap
KrazyKarl02
12-29-2007, 12:03 PM
I also have a 302 complete carb to oil pan. Someone please take it!
KrazyKarl02
12-29-2007, 12:10 PM
Unbolt carb from my 302, bolt on EFI crap. Done....
william_ace
12-29-2007, 07:36 PM
i've got an efi 351
davido
12-29-2007, 08:06 PM
Looks real sad John
Removed front fender
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/596575/fullsize/img_0660.jpg
Started the rear cutting. I still need to cut more from the front part of the fender, as well as cut horizontally the rear bottom part. Also need to cut the slider back a few inches.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/596576/fullsize/img_0661.jpg
Anyone has a spare 8 lug 42 I could test fit?
Also noticed this. i wonder if there is any gear fluid left...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/596577/fullsize/img_0663.jpg
I think I am going to do the rear kinda like this...
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j281/diamondback-motorsports/2004_0101broncoclose0004.jpg
I like this front, but would need a winch mount. I would also tie it into the cage with a bar running exo-style down the frt fender...
http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j281/diamondback-motorsports/2004_0101broncoclose0003.jpg
link to that Bronco.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=75435&highlight=bnt
DRAGOONRANCH
12-30-2007, 11:41 PM
I like that tailgate, but I dont like that the 'stinger' sticks up above the bottom of the be, seems like it would be hard to slide large items up and over it. I was thinking about doing something similar to the cheby.
although, I have been thinking more and more of removing the bed and just tubing it out. :blackeek:
JeepPhisherman
12-31-2007, 08:20 AM
although, I have been thinking more and more of removing the bed and just tubing it out. :blackeek:
Do eet
DRAGOONRANCH
12-31-2007, 08:38 AM
Do eet
Craighton has a sharp knife and I am afraid he will declare a jihad on them if I do it.... :cheers:
davido
12-31-2007, 11:23 AM
Looks cool John.
What is the best way to "roll" the edge of the fender. Obviously, its pretty sharp now and I know I will cut myself or cut up a tire.
robertf03
12-31-2007, 05:20 PM
a guy in the scout club is pretty good at baseball bat fender rolling, I don't know the exact procedure, but it turns out pretty good.
Cleaned up the cuts today and got a fender from Gordon's
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/596853/fullsize/img_0665.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/596854/fullsize/img_0667.jpg
agjohn02
12-31-2007, 07:22 PM
a guy in the scout club is pretty good at baseball bat fender rolling, I don't know the exact procedure, but it turns out pretty good.
that requires that it be close to the tire.
i got nothin for ya JB
RCcola55
12-31-2007, 07:58 PM
screw rolling them weld some 1/4"round bar to the edge
davido
12-31-2007, 10:24 PM
I think the bat is for rolling a current lip, not making a new one when you hacked the piss out of your fenders. :)
Where do you live John? Working on it tomorrow?
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/597290/fullsize/img_0668.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/597292/fullsize/img_0669.jpg
Finished the other side today. I was able to pull alot of the fender out. It was pretty smashed in.
As for tires, I think with the BS on the H1s, I really shouldn't go much wider than 12.5, so I think I might go with 38x12.5 SXs. You can see on the pic of the pass. side the area of the inner wheel well that the tire rubs. I really wish they made a 40 or 42 SX though.
As for the front fenders, that will be a little harder. How does one got about narrowing the front? I have seen a couple that section out the middle of the core support and pull the fenders in.
Sharpe
01-01-2008, 09:16 PM
The Clarke procedure for narrowing front.
Remove fenders.
Aimlessly hack away at whatever wires you dont like the color of.
Tear truck apart and start over
RCcola55
01-02-2008, 12:30 AM
The Clarke procedure for narrowing front.
Remove fenders.
Aimlessly hack away at whatever wires you dont like the color of.
Tear truck apart and start over
works everytime 60% of the time
All cylinders were 125-150ish except #8, which was 90-100ish. The oil was a little milky, but I've seen worse. It did smell a little bit of gasoline though. Kinda unsure as to what I am going to do next.
pulled the motor today...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/599762/fullsize/img_0681.jpg
ordered a shortblock that will be here Thursday. I have a line on some sweet heads, but they might be too much $$. I might settle and find some rebuilt GT40 heads. Other than that and a nice cam, it will stay pretty stock.
not as bad as dexter or 218, but getting there...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/599764/fullsize/img_0685.jpg
DRAGOONRANCH
01-11-2008, 02:20 AM
You planning on re skinning it, or tubing the front?
I have a good junkyard fender for the pass. side, as well as a good junkyard core support to replace all teh damage from Shiloh. No excess tubing on teh front, just bumper/grill protection/winch mount.....should prevent further damage.
I like to keep it looking like a Bronco, even though the body is trashed.
Mounted the front "new" fender and ghetto'd up the inner plastic to work...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/600170/fullsize/img_0691.jpg
Cleaned up the frame for the new motor...
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/600169/fullsize/img_0693.jpg
I got them motor in and some new parts.
Crane cam should be in tomorrow. Found some good DOOE heads that I hear are decent heads. I need to find a new lower intake and the "dogbone" thing that is used on the roller motors.
Got some of it together. Crane PowerMax cam, new water pump, DOOE heads with lifters and springs from I think Crane also. Will also get new balancer, ARP hardware, Cloyes timing chain, "bronco" script valve covers, and stock cleaned up intake
agjohn02
01-19-2008, 11:10 PM
what are the specs on that cam?
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_116406_-1
Did some work tonight. Go the heads on. Still need to adjust the valves and get it all buttoned up...
davido
01-26-2008, 03:44 PM
Damn, that's slick looking!
Sure is. I see you have a couple of cases of the proper assembly lube in the background as well.
DRAGOONRANCH
01-28-2008, 09:20 AM
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/563295/fullsize/img_0514.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/563296/fullsize/img_0515.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/563297/fullsize/img_0516.jpg
I went with blue "metal speck" paint. It matches fairly well, but I havent seen them in the daylight yet. Mounting this ****ers is hard work. The overall combo is almost 150lbs.
Did you mount the rings right on the edge of the rim, or did you set them in where they rested on the inside of the rim? I cant tell because of the paint, but it looks like you did them like Cox did his and mounted them flush.
Like this
http://copperheadfab.com/images/photos/34stuff_023.jpg
http://copperheadfab.com/images/photos/RimSstuff_019.jpg
agjohn02
01-28-2008, 09:26 AM
his look neat so i would say flush.
DRAGOONRANCH
01-28-2008, 09:46 AM
you are probably right, but a grinder, paint and grainy picture can hide alot. :D
DRAGOONRANCH
01-28-2008, 09:47 AM
Looking at the second picture again, the flash would have left a shadow if it wasn't flush.
Sharpe
01-28-2008, 02:21 PM
I was wondering this exact thing while I was welding in the aTm rings copperhead fab made me this weekend. In my head it made more sense for them to mount flush but the rings' O.D. was about ~1/4" smaller than the I.D. of the wheel and I figured a 1/8" gap was a little too much to fill and maintain near-perfect centering so I welded them in below the surface. I f'ed up the very outter edge in a couple of spots but I'll probably go back and fill/grind them back into shape. I'll post pics tonight.
Also, I only got 4 aTm rings originally and decided to go with 5 rims so I'm gonna need to call copperhead and have em whip me up another ring.
CRaSHnBuRN
01-28-2008, 03:43 PM
for the guys doing the plate style centers, what is the minimum and maximum backspacing choices you have?
agjohn02
01-28-2008, 03:56 PM
I figured a 1/8" gap was a little too much to fill
once you get a bridge started, no gap is too large with a mig. 1/8" isnt big to begin with. just gotta make sure your purpose is not simply to fill a gap and you'll be fine.
The rings set down into the outer piece. Cox used magnets to hold them flush with the outer lip.
agjohn02
01-28-2008, 09:15 PM
did you grind the whole lip off all the way around?
BMFScout
01-28-2008, 09:22 PM
I thought the point was to preserve the outer edge of the rim. Wouldn't it be best if they were all the way to the edge? I've never really paid attention to them until you guys started doing it though, so what do I know.
Sharpe
01-28-2008, 11:11 PM
Here's mine and the worste fuggup welding.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.2 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.