Swamp Donkey Progess

[agjohn02]

I thought the point was to preserve the outer edge of the rim. Wouldn't it be best if they were all the way to the edge? I've never really paid attention to them until you guys started doing it though, so what do I know.

that was my logic too. it may not need to be there and grinding it off wont hurt anything. i figure if you recess the ring and leave the lip sticking out its just gonna look like crap after a while when that lip is all bent up. the bead should still be fine though.

[JB]

old crap and new hotness....

[JB]

The old original cable always gave me problems and has always been coiled up like that. It had alot of burs in the cable as well. Order the Amsteel Blue (60ft vs the old 50ft) from Rockstomper with a new aluminum fairlead

[Seth]

hottness you say?

[JeepPhisherman]

I've heard a few complaints about the Amsteel getting frays and whatnot. And by heard, I mean read, second hand, from the interweb.

[Jackasic]

i think that is what dave has.

[sasquatch]

should be fine since its in the bumper away from the sun

[AggieTJ2007]

synthetic wire rope does not stand up to abrasion like cable does, which is why it comes with an abrasion guard.

not a bad thing, I was going to go with amstel or something similar untill I got a whole bunch of cable for free.

Edit: I kinda like this new edit in the same window thingy

[JB]

I ground the welds down flush.

I have just heard that the rope needs an aluminum fairlead vs a steel one to prevent fraying. I am not going to be dragging it over many rocks though anyway, the winch is really just there to get me out of a situations that I probably had no buisness being in in the first place.


O, and it does have 8' of abrasion guard

[AggieTJ2007]

forgot you had it on the truck and not the bronco

[AggieTJ2007]

who did you get the winch mount from I really like the bumper and mount

[JB]

As for the motor, we hit a snag. We first found that we needed to run valve guides to prevent the rockers from moving. We found Comp guides locally. Anyone ever been to Harrisons Machine Shop?:eek: It is a tinyass shop packed to the gills with random old perfomance parts. It is over behind House of Tires.

Anyhow, once I installed the guides, the bottom of the rocker would bottom out on the stud (screw in studs) I have been using a Dremel to take out some material on the bottom of every rocker. It is getting there.

Brandon, I hope to have your hoist and stand back this weekend or at latest, next weekend. Thanks alot.

[JB]

who did you get the winch mount from I really like the bumper and mount

It is part of Warns hidden mount lineup. I think they make them for the Big 3. Unfortunately, for the F150, you have to run a special XD9000 with a shorter drum that only allows for 50 ft. I was able to fit 60ft of rope on it though.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Edit: I kinda like this new edit in the same window thingy


R

http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?p=180159#post180159

:flipoff2:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

that was my logic too. it may not need to be there and grinding it off wont hurt anything. i figure if you recess the ring and leave the lip sticking out its just gonna look like crap after a while when that lip is all bent up. the bead should still be fine though.

How long would it take to just turn down the lip on a mill/lathe? It just seems that w/ it being recessed, it would be a bit stronger.

[agjohn02]

How long would it take to just turn down the lip on a mill/lathe? It just seems that w/ it being recessed, it would be a bit stronger.

i wouldnt do it. i was just being optimistic in that post. if i thought that was a better idea, i would've done it. we shall see if i am correct when mine see some abuse.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

As you know, I already have one started in the recessed position. I will give our neighbor a call and see what he thinks he could do for it. He likes little projects like this. If it doesn't turn out right, I will just keep it as the spare.

[agjohn02]

ah, didnt know that... back to optimistic position.


you make up your own mind, if they taco i dont want you blaming me.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

***, I may just get the big grinder out and take the lips off and be done w/ it.

[JB]

Got alot done today but have alot to do. I bought a new 36 and got it mounted it up. I paid for the 6 ply, and it was labeled with the 6ply part number, but says 10 ply on the tire.:gigem:

I got some new Flowtech headers for $58 through Kyle at advance. They were discontinued. I got them mounted and found that the drivers side exhaust does not match up to the new header (ran stock mustang manifolds before), so I need to fix that.

Other than that, I got the plugs in, some brackets bolted up, the fuel rail on with new o-rings and stems. Put in a new o2 sensor as well. Still alot left to do but getting there.

[85cj7]

Got alot done today but have alot to do. I bought a new 36 and got it mounted it up. I paid for the 6 ply, and it was labeled with the 6ply part number, but says 10 ply on the tire.:gigem:

I got some new Flowtech headers for $58 through Kyle at advance. They were discontinued (If you need some for a truck 302, talk to him). I got them mounted and found that the drivers side exhaust does not match up to the new header (ran stock mustang manifolds before), so I need to fix that.

Other than that, I got the plugs in, some brackets bolted up, the fuel rail on with new o-rings and stems. Put in a new o2 sensor as well. Still alot left to do but getting there.

sweet, thanks for the tip, we'll be picking up a set for the f150 tomorrow, thats just too good of a deal to pass up.

[colman]

i have a set from a 5.0 gt mustang that i will let go cheap if you want those

[85cj7]

i have a set from a 5.0 gt mustang that i will let go cheap if you want those

i might swing by to take a look. when we get to that point in the build up

[JB]

i have a set from a 5.0 gt mustang that i will let go cheap if you want those

Those are the ones I took off (stock 5.0 mustang 'headers'). $20 and they are yours. They could use a wirewheel and some high temp paint.

And since this is my thread, you should buy them from me instead of Colman :flipoff2:

[colman]

go ahead. i was just trying to help him out. i have to much crap in the garage as anyone who has been over here lately can attest. secretly i am holding onto them till i swap a 5.0 innto the red cj

[85cj7]

Those are the ones I took off (stock 5.0 mustang 'headers'). $20 and they are yours. They could use a wirewheel and some high temp paint.

And since this is my thread, you should buy them from me instead of Colman :flipoff2:

are these long headers or short?

[william_ace]

short

[85cj7]

short

so they will bolt up to stock collectors and y-pipe? 2 1/4" (i think)

[RCcola55]

si, you just need really good gaskets cause they tend to leak

[JB]

Through a strange course of events I got today off and drove back to CS to work on it some more. The wiring harness is hooked up. The upper intake is cleaned up and bolted down. I cleaned it and painted it with some high heat aluminum. I thought it might look ghetto/chrome, but it actually looks really good, like a new part. Core support should go on this weekend

Waiting on a new throttle cable, egr block-off plate, and ps pump

[JB]

I need a new steering pump, but do not want to fork over for an AGR. I am thinking about this pump...
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=A1C&mfrpartnumber=206244

I think this is just an improved version of the stock pump.

Ryan, don't you know how to modify these to flow more?

[JB]

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65983&highlight=bolt+sag+pump

[RCcola55]

only the saginaw's, but i heard a lot of good thing about using that bolt in saginaw pump but i cant remember if you need a new high pressure line or not. I know on the bronco once i put ram assist on it there was no need for more flow

[sasquatch]

I need a new steering pump, but do not want to fork over for an AGR. I am thinking about this pump...
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=A1C&mfrpartnumber=206244

I think this is just an improved version of the stock pump.

Ryan, don't you know how to modify these to flow more?


those are saginaw pumps. you just take the fitting off the back and they come apart like the rest

[JB]

I plan on going ram assist here shortly, but I need a new pump to start with so I think I am going to get that one.

Apparently you need a high pressure line from a 78-79 bronco.

[Sharpe]

Well make sure the saginaw pump you get is from a 70's vintage vehicle because (at least Chevy/GM) used flared connections with SAE fittings in the 70's but switched to o-ring connections and metric fittings from 81 to present.

[william_ace]

hey john i heard those arent all that great. i have a buddy who has gone through 4 already in 2 years. 2 just snapped the shafts on it. what i did on mine was find a power steering/ AC bracket from a e150 van with the same engine as my truck, installed that and got the pump from the van. they come stock with the saginaw. then i got the high pressure line from the van also, they follow the same route as the truck/bronco pressure line untill it gets to the pump. thats another way to work it anyhow

[JB]

so e150 pump is a sag pump, but will only bolt up to the e150 bracket? I assume I would need to find one with a 302 or 351? What years?

[william_ace]

yes it is a sag pump.

-Saginaw pump and bracket come from 1987-1997 ford 302/351 vans.

-302 and 351 are the same bracket so it won't matter which one you get.

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=115063

[RCcola55]

but if you search on FSB there is a sag pump that you can buy that bolts up the your current bracket, it is an A-1 part and i think all you need to do the swap is a new high pressure hose

[JB]

but if you search on FSB there is a sag pump that you can buy that bolts up the your current bracket, it is an A-1 part and i think all you need to do the swap is a new high pressure hose

pn 206244 A1 Cardone.

[william_ace]

right, that too. but thats the one i was sayin my buddy had so many problems with. hes gone though 4 in less than 2 years

[JB]

what is he doing to them? How are they wearing out?

[william_ace]

its on a stock 95 bronco. he said 2 of them seized and broke the shaft. and the other two started leaking out the shaft seal after 4 or 5 months

[robertf03]

too much belt tension?

[william_ace]

dunno, try it out. its worth a shot

[JB]

I ordered one. SHould be hear Monday.

[JB]

It came today. I got it installed but one of the 3 bolts contacts the pulley since the pump shaft is not centered in the housing. I changed the flanged bolts for some regualr hex heads and it clears. I hate really hate PS pulley removal/installation.

Maybe the newer core support goes in tomorrow. Maybe fire it next weekend.

[JB]

Hungry!

[JB]

-replacement core support went in
-egr block off plate
-new battery and terminals (1000ca)
-cleaned out the radiator with high pressure, wow alot of shiloh was in there.
-new lower hose
-wires on
-all heater hoses are on
-hooked up hoses to trans cooler

It just needs the distributor stabbed and it will be ready to fire

[JB]

It runs!

After a few hours of head scratching, we figured out it was 180 out. Got the timing close and it fired right up. I need to get the exhaust redone, a few odds and ends here and there, and it will be ready to roll.:gigem:

Also got a much needed new diff cover from GreatLake Offroad for the 10.25. Pics when it gets here.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

sweet!

did you have rowdy helpin on it???

:flipoff2:

[JB]

I can only moved the wheel a little bit in each direction, then it like hits a wall and will not turn anymore. New pump, new pulley. Before I put the new pulley on today, after running for 10minutes or so, the pump shaft was smoking and super hot, as if the pulley is spinning on the shaft. The new pulley does not seem to be doing this, but still no turning.

When I lift both tires or the ground, of course, it turns lock to lock.

Any ideas?

[agjohn02]

hydro assist? is it hooked up correctly?

[JB]

no hydro assist, just a pump and box. Its like its in a bind.

[JB]

The box was completely dry when I installed it. The pump is full now, but maybe fluid is not getting into the box somehow?

I am pretty sure all Ford boxs are the same. The one that is in now is one I got from Tate many years ago.

[AggieTJ2007]

if the engine is off and the tires off of the ground does it turn smoothly

[DRAGOONRANCH]

can you crack the return line at the box to see if it is pumping. I wouldn't think that it would be airlocked, but funnier things have happened.

[JB]

if the engine is off and the tires off of the ground does it turn smoothly

Yes


can you crack the return line at the box to see if it is pumping. I wouldn't think that it would be airlocked, but funnier things have happened.

I cracked the return line and it is definetely pumping.

Ok, I might lose you here, but let me explain.....Ove the past 2-3 runs, my steering will all of a sudden 'go out'. It will let me turn slightly but that is it. Once I hit say a rock or a a bump or somthing the right way, it seems to work just fine again. Since these episodes, it has sat in the driveway while I do this engine swap. In this process, I have changed the gear box to the one I got from Tate years ago, I have swapped on a sag. pump from A1 Cardone. I also replaced both pressure and return lines.

It is acting now just like it did out on the trail like I descibed. Like the whole setup is in a bind.
My tierod for now is a stock F350 piece. The d-link is above the leaf and goes to the ORU knuckle (just like a high steer arm for you KP guys) The d-link runs at an upward angle (it is maybe 2" lower at the pitman arm than where is mounts at the knuckle) I do not think this is an issue though, just stated what I am working with.

My steering shaft has seen a hard life and I know I have never replaced it. COuld that be the issue?


O, and apparently putting square port headers on round port heads with square port gaskets causes exhaust leaks:D

[AggieTJ2007]

its sounds like something mechanical is binding up. maybe in the steering column

or maybe even in the front axle, could your axle shafts be moving enough that the ujoint binds when you try to turn the wheel?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

does it whine or make any noises when it binds up? Maybe it's in your column or shaft somehow???

[DRAGOONRANCH]

its sounds like something mechanical is binding up. maybe in the steering column

or maybe even in the front axle, could your axle shafts be moving enough that the ujoint binds when you try to turn the wheel?

Ya beat me to it... :flipoff2:

[stx4wheeler]

i have had similiar problems with my power steering mainly being related to having air in the system.

the way i cured it was jack up the whole front end with tires of the ground turn lock to lock 10-15 times in a row with the engine off. I have heard some people will crank the engine but not fire it, but havent ever tried this.

then refill the pump as needed. Then turn the motor on and repeat the lock to lock another 15-20 times as needed, with the cap off you should see air bubbles coming out most likely. Do this till there is no air bubbles for at least 4-5 lock to lock turns.

Now set the front tires back on the ground and do lock to lock again with the engine on, and see if there is any problems with steering if so repeat the full process again. It seems like a pain in the ass, but i worked on big nasty when i swapped to the saginaw setup, and various times when i have switched hydro assist rams.

Also when i had the rag joint in the steering shaft it seems to bind up some when the joint was trashed. Do yourself a favor and replace the rag joint with a u joint and it will steer alot better. hope this helps in some way

[JB]

Thanks frick, this did help some.

I feel dumb, but I think it might have been b/c the hubs were locked. I unlocked them and backed up a little and it seems to be working fine now.

[agjohn02]

scout's the same way. if the hubs and diff are locked, no turn. roll it just a smidge and it turns fine.

[JB]

My reverse lights dont come on. What sends the signal to teh bulbs?

No brake lights. I am pretty sure I replaced the swith recently.

Headlights and parking lights work. Blinkers work. But when headlights are on, blinkers do not blink.

I got it idleing pretty nice now, it sounds good.

[agjohn02]

reverse light switch is usually in the shifter mechanism, but i have no clue on fords.


do you have a voltmeter? sounds like you need one.

[robertf03]

on my 85 the switch was on the drivers side of the transmission.

[JB]

I got more done today. I fixed the ps leak as well as the small coolant leak and got the last of the fenders trimmed. We also set the timing 12degress below and it seems to idle and run great, but I seem to have a new problem. While ideling(and probably while driving too I just can't hear it) I hear an occasional 'knock' or maybe its a 'slap' It is pretty random and seems to do it no matter if its hot or cold. Definetely sounds like metal on metal. Sounds like it is more towards the bottom of the block. Almost like the chain hitting the cover? ANy ideas with that vague description?

[JB]

Still have a pretty bad metal on metal sound from the front of the motor. Havent figured that one out yet. Idles and runs great.

I put the dash back together and wired up the rock/backup lights.

I really need to figure out the brakes b/c they suck bad. Ever heard of "gutting" the prop valve after doing a rear disc conversion to get more flow to the rear? My pedal goes to the floor, I've bled them many times.

[Sharpe]

I tried to gut my valve when building pigpen but gave up on it and just re-plumbed the system with an adjustable valve on the rears.

[davido]

That's what I was going to say, just reverse the prop'ing.

[william_ace]

have you upgraded to the f350 booster and MC?

[JB]

I think in 86 the bronco/f350 is the same stuff. I think I am going to try a newer year and get the plastic resevoir MC

[JB]

I think the noise is the roller rockers under the stock height valve covers.

How ghetto are valve cover spacers?

[agjohn02]

never heard of them. sounds like a lot of new leak paths though. how expensive are cheap, tall covers?

[JB]

..

[JB]

You can see the scoring on the inside of the cover. I need taller valve covers and in order to run those, I need a intake plenum spacer as well.

The diff cover is from Great Lake Offroad. It took them a month to get it to me, but it is beefy for sure. I am going to mount it up and get pics today.

[JB]

..

[JeepPhisherman]

Looks like a diff cover! Also looks like your gas tank could use some altitude, or do you never touch it?

[JB]

i hit it all the time, but it has't stuck me yet. That skid is beefy (see post 153; ))

[JeepPhisherman]

Ah, 1/4", nevermind then.

[RCcola55]

i sent a intake spacer with flem to give to jimmy, if it doesnt work on the boat motor maybe it will fit yours

[Seth]

Karl might have ended up with the spacer, but I bet he would give it up.

[Fredo]

Yeah, Karl ended up with the spacer. The boat motor uses the lightning intake that is like a cobra intake. Large round ports staggered instead of the oval inline ones like a normal 302 would have.

As far as valve cover spacers, I wouldn't see a problem as long as you silicone the **** out of them. A little ghetto, but if you have nice valve covers you like, then go for it. I've seen them used with success.

[JB]

The valve cover spacers were actually over $100 so I bought some tall covers and the plenum spacer from summit this morning. Hopefully I can sell the other covers.

[JB]

The taller valve covers fixed the problem and I did not end up even needing an intake spacer, so I sent it back to Summit.

Drove it around today and the motor runs fine. But the trans mights have issues. I have the proper amount of fluid in it, but I have to give it gas for 2-3 seconds before it slowly grabs 1rst. It also won't shift into 2nd without playing with the throttle.

The brakes suck still, adjustable p-valve and a good bleeding are in order.

[agjohn02]

i dont know anything about ford trannys. does it have a throttle valve?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

It has been sitting a little while, a fluid and filter change may be in order.

[JB]

It is not building enough pressure to shift I think.

Is $800-1000 typical of a rebuild? And that is me taking the trans too them!

TCI transmissions are $2000, but apparently someone on ebay sells them for $699? Sounds fishy.

[agjohn02]

hung out with this guy this weekend. he said hello.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/93801/fullsize/boxframe7.jpg

[Sharpe]

hung out with this guy this weekend. he said hello.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/93801/fullsize/boxframe7.jpg

Blurry Mc$hittypicture? Yah me and him go way back :flipoff2:

[agjohn02]

Blurry Mc$hittypicture? Yah me and him go way back :flipoff2:

if he were working on blurry mc$hittytruck in the picture then that might be directed towards you

[JB]

I must have missed the above posts. I can not even remember his name. He drove a black F150 with several large guns on the gunrack. He did the welding for me for the front crossmember and the boxing of the front part of the frame. Nice guy. I know his initials are JWB b/c he welded them onto the inner side of the boxed frame. :gigem:

[JB]

It is back in CS. I finally know what 4 wheel disc brakes should feel like. I is sooo much better with the F350 MC/booster.

The new trans is funny though right now. It will not shift into 2nd until like 4500 rpms, but when it does, it feels good :D Kevin, the owner of Trans Specialties, built it and said he put some sort of hd clutches in it and a shift kit. I do not think it needed the "shift kit", but could that be what is causing it? I think it might need some sort of adjustment? to the kickdown cable?

[agjohn02]

I think it might need some sort of adjustment? to the kickdown cable?

sounds like exactly what my 700r4 did before i got the TV cable adjusted properly. if its too loose it shifts very softly and burns clutches. if its too tight it will shift a little bit too hard and late. if its not connected, it will shift insanely hard and very late. its like the failsafe to save the innards in any throttle position.

[JB]

I put new cooler lines on after the little fire on Sunday. They are zip tied out of the way like I HAD them before I had someone else install it.

The trans crossmember has slots for the bolts. I guess when it was reinstalled, it was put slightly further forward, which caused the front d-shaft to grind against it. I heard it, but just said **** it for the day. Well it has a nice groove all around it where it contacts and probably is very close to breaking. Think how those little tubing cutters for brake lines works, and that is what is looks like now. I have a spare, but one of the ears is tatered.

If its is not one thing, its another.

Bumpers are next, then the PSC stuff I have been puting off for years. After that, only repairs to existing crap, no more new stuff.:rolleyes:

[JB]

Picked it up from Trans Specialties today. Apparently the kickdown cable was installed backwards. I do not understand how that happened, but nonetheless, it runs awesome with the new motor and properly shifting transmission. Who wants to race:gigem:

Swapped my spare front driveshaft in and notched the crossmember.

[robertf03]

I think I had to flip the bracket around when I went EFI, was that what they had backwards?

[JB]

I need to pick this thing up from its current resting place to prepare for the Alto trip. Unfortunately, my buddy that has done all the metal work can't do the bumpers before October. I can live without a front bumper, but I really need something on the back. If anyone has some time over a couple weekends, I could use some assistance. And by assistance, I mean I do not have a welder, nor can I weld or fabricate :D

Probably something simple with a mount for a 8000lb winch.

[JB]

Its no glove box, but I believe that it provides a much more important purpose:gigem:

[JB]

It was $5 at the army supply place. Cut two big holes and some the old boat cupholders. The cooler fits perfectly there too.

[JB]

hacked up rear bumper (temporary)

[JB]

No pics, but Rusty put new exhaust on it today. Cut the cat out and replaced the delta 40 with a 40 series. It sounds better, but only a little bit louder, which is good.

Sky tie rod should go on this weekend.

IF when I put it in park, it sometimes tends to keep rolling, is that a problem external to the trans? It did it before the trans rebuild a few months ago and just noticed it after having to block the tires on the trailer when I was loading it today.

[Reckless]

how far are we talking about? inches? feet?

[JB]

Like, rolling down the street/trailer/trail. It won't ALWAYS hold. Sometimes it will hold fine. It almost seems like a linkage issue, not allowing the lever to fully engage park.

[Reckless]

Id check the linkage. or it may be a spawl in the transmission that holds the linkage to the park position.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

floor shifter baby!!!

[73bronco]

if it worked fine before I would bet on the linkage needing to be adjusted. Otherwise the rebuilder could have left out part of the parking gear mechanism. If its not the linkage you could probably just drop the t-case and get to what you need with the trans in the truck

[JB]

Tunes are now better than they have ever been. I ditched the old cheesy Pioneer for a new cheesy Pioneer. This one has and aux. output so Bronco is now iPod compatible:gigem: I also bought some 5.25" speakers that will be mounted in a 6" PVC cap. Even without having the speakers mounted up yet, it sounds pretty good for what it is. I can hear the Kid Rock blaring down the trail already. Pics of that probably this weekend.

Big "vendor" thumbs up for Audio Video. Brandon always gets me what I need for a great price. Really nice guy and he knows his car audio.

[JB]

I got the new tie rod today. I think it is 1.25". When I mount it ontop of the knuckle, there is maybe 1/8" clearance between it and the spring. Roll with it?:D I dunno, I should probably just mount it under.

And just to be sure, it should go.....bolt head, misalignment bushing, heim, misalignment busing, knuckle, washer, nut.?????

how ghetto is it that I will now be running heims on the tie rod and TREs on the drag link?

[Shaggy]

doesn't sound ghetto to me just creative

[eight]

You may be able to chunk the misalignment bushings to get some more clearance. Just bolt it on without them and turn the wheels to see if it hits. A tie rod doesn't get much misalignment. I'm not sure if I have them on the tie rod on jeep or not.

[agjohn02]

And just to be sure, it should go.....bolt head, misalignment bushing, heim, misalignment busing, knuckle, washer, nut.?????

how ghetto is it that I will now be running heims on the tie rod and TREs on the drag link?

yes.


not ghetto. tre's have more misalignment capability. this is a pretty common combo i think.

[JB]

I think I finally figured out what the loud clacking sound from the motor was. I think I am running the wrong crank pulley, which causes the belt to jump back and forth, which pisses off the tensioner, which causes something inside it to pop.

The radiator is toast from the several minivan collisions and I haven't torn into the hubs yet to see what the problem was. I actually had to winch the Warn hub out of the axle to be able to spin the tire and get it on the trailer.

I will probably have to clean for several days before I can even start repairing various items.

The PVC speaker "boxes" worked great. The Ipod got a little muddy, but that was the only issue.

Still down for Clayton, hopefully with have bumpers.

[CheapJeep]

Saw the toyota/import of some sort at advance beat to **** covered in alto mud yesterday while buying some headlight bulbs for the dodge. The guy behind the counter was like, "yeah, I'm new here but those cardoc guys are some crazy rednecks...."

[JB]

I was looking through old pics and forgot how clean this truck once was:( Pic taken shortly after SAS and from pg 11.

[85cj7]

looking at those pictures is how i learned to flex on a loading ramp.:flipoff2:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

dentless is way overrated, that's what towrigs are for. ;)

[Reckless]

dentless is way overrated, that's what towrigs are for. ;)

Even your tow rig doesnt fall into that category:flipoff2:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I have no dents in it what so ever. Thank You



Cracks in the BS fiberglass fenders is another story. Just a good excuse to find an aluminum flatbed oneday. ;)

[Reckless]

Edzachry

[jerryg79]

I have no dents in it what so ever. Thank You



Cracks in the BS fiberglass fenders is another story. Just a good excuse to find an aluminum flatbed oneday. ;)

shoulda boughta dodge...whatafeg!

















































































:flipoff2:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

yeah, because then the fourwheeler would have been too scared to hit that ugly mothafawker... :rolleyes:









:flipoff3:

[JB]

d60 spindle bearing part number - BK6 - Napa.

[Eckert]

dentless is way overrated, that's what towrigs are for. ;)

you have never seen my truck.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Me thinks you are wrong and whether or not I have seen it has nothing to do with my statement...

:flipoff2:

[JB]

The Bronco is off gettting some bumpers. Hopefully will have pics soon.

DD hit the big 6 digits....

[JB]

:gigem:

[Seth]

I really like that bottom part, who and how much if you dont mind?

[bburris]

Nice, not too much of a donkey dick to make it look silly. Looks great! :gigem:

[JB]

I dropped it off at J&P. It is probably a seized pinion bearing. Rear bumper should be done the weekend before Clayton.

[uglyota]

I recently learned what a "Swamp Donkey" was and cracked up. I also learned that some people refer to a moose as a Swamp Donkey, which cracked me up even more. I saw a cow and a calf moose this weekend and cracked up. So is your truck's name in reference to a moose or is your lady a little big and rough around the edges? :D

[JB]

Swamp Donkey :
A very ugly, usually fat girl who hangs around in bars and clubs waiting to sexually assault males who are too drunk to defend themselves.
"Damn! Look at her! What a swamp donkey!"

2. swamp donkey
of British origin, meaning a slobbering blob of a girl who hangs out at shady bars hoping for some action.
So I tell the swampdonkey to sock it before I give her a trunky in the tradesman's entrance and I have her lick me yardballs.

[Reckless]

So I tell the swampdonkey to sock it before I give her a trunky in the tradesman's entrance and I have her lick me yardballs. [/I]

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

[Sharpe]

Rowdy is a swamp donkey afficianado.

[Reckless]

lick me yardballs ya bastid

[JB]

I dropped it off at J&P. It is probably a seized pinion bearing. Rear bumper should be done the weekend before Clayton.

pinion bearing was fooked. Pick it up tomorrow.

[william_ace]

what do they charge for something like that?

[JB]

too much

[JB]

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/689786/fullsize/dsc00097.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/689787/fullsize/dsc00098.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/689788/fullsize/dsc00099.jpg

[Fredo]

Yeah! Looks good man. Time to go bash it into rocks!

[RCcola55]

i dig.

[BroncoJo]

isn't it kinda late for body protection?:flipoff2:


looks good though:gigem:

[uglyota]

too much

really? They change their pricing strategy? I'd have thought a pinion bearing R&R at J&P would be like $59.95

[redcagepatrol]

looks pretty sweet but remids me how wide those full-size things are

[JB]

They had to pull everything apart and set everything back up.

[JB]

I emailed the guy on Pirate that supposedly gives good deals on PSC stuff.

Sory I meant "what pump" I was typing on my phone and hit the wrong key it looks like. That engine could have come with a ford pump or saganaw.

If you are unsure you can always email me a pic and I should be able to tell
Eather way a Hydro assist kit will run
$925 (could be +$25 based on the pump) + Shipping (retail would be over $1050)
Also a cooler is needed to run this set up. I can get you one or you can source your own. Check out PSC web page they have some great oil coolers they just came out with

Thanks and let me know
Andrew----

That should include a new box right?

----You will need a p pump and add bm mb03 and pp 2450 and rhould work great-----

Thsoe part numbers are for a saginaw pump adapter bracket and a pulley.

Why can't I use the sag pump I have now?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I recommend dealing straight with PSC themselves. Their customer service is great to me. I believe I was dealing with Lance most of the time there.

[JB]

I replaced the heater core today. And damnit if I didnt spend an hour tearing the passenger side front end back down looking for a rattle that I really thought was coming from that area and it turns out to be the rollers on the fairlead of the winch. :rolleyes: I wired up the cheapo 6" lights on the front bumper too.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

:laughing: <-------'at you not with yo....' nm :flipoff2:

[JB]

I am thinking bent rod. Any chance of just a bent valve?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Yeah, that's what my money is on. ;)

<-----------Crosses Fingers...

[KrazyKarl02]

If only someone on here had a running 302 block for sale...

<cough>

http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=7124

<cough>

[Seth]

351. And it was just totally rebuilt/built up...nay of jimmys boat stuff work?

[redcagepatrol]

when do we get to find out the damage? Should we post a poll?

[mudtoy67]

351. And it was just totally rebuilt/built up...nay of jimmys boat stuff work?

Yes! Jimmy's stuff is marine grade. You'll never have to worry about water again!:D

[Fredo]

Actually, Jimmy does have a real clean rotating assembly out of that gt40 pro-boss motor. It was the engine with a crack in it, but only 98 hours on it. It was spotless on the inside. The rotating assembly is all there. If you need a crank, rods, and pistons, this would be good for you. From some of the stuff I've read/heard, these rotating assemblies were supposed to be balanced, so that's nice if it actually is. I'll snap some pictures if you're interested and you and Jimmy can negotiate a price. But, I guess I'm getting ahead of myself here...you haven't even torn it down yet right?

[redcagepatrol]

His truck name has an entirely new meaning
"Swamp Donkey" :flipoff2:

[JB]

351. And it was just totally rebuilt/built up...nay of jimmys boat stuff work?

its a 302

[Jackasic]

if you need a hand John, give me a call.

[JB]

I could use a vehicle with a big bumper that could push Bronco up into the driveway if anyone is still around.

[Jackasic]

i have a tire that we can use as a bumper.

[JB]

i have a tire that we can use as a bumper.

Just awoke from an awesome nap. Got your message. Thanks Brandon, I will call you probably Friday or maybe this weekened. Going to the bball game now

[JB]

I need some advice. Should I put another motor in the Bronco, dumping even more money into it, or should I buy an already built Yota? I am pretty sure I am going to fix the Bronco, but I would like everyone to give me adivce so that I can stubbonly refute it.
























:flipoff2:

[Eckert]

rip the body off the frame. keep the drive train for another project. trade said parts for rockwells. buy a ranger.

[BroncoJo]

Build a diesel, but make sure it smokes alot that way everyone knows it runs real good.


























:flipoff2::flipoff2:

[BMFScout]

fix the motor and get bigger tires. Then put a stak or whatever the hell colman has in his. After that I would kickass, take names, and avoid water like the plague. :)

[Jackasic]

so much for coming to help you out.























:flipoff2:

[mudtoy67]

So you figure out what happened to it yet?

[JB]

No, its still on the trailer.

[Jackasic]

let's unload it tonight!

[JB]

I'm going to let the neighbors enjoy it one more day and hope to avoid community enhancement for another 24 hours. All call you tomorrow night

[DRAGOONRANCH]

fix the motor and get bigger tires. Then put a stak or whatever the hell colman has in his. After that I would kickass, take names, and avoid water like the plague. :)

It's a KLUNE biatch!!!

[JB]

I am not going to work on it till tomorrow, but if ya'll want to help push it up into the driveway I will be around this afternoon.

[JB]

Donor motor?:D

[Sharpe]

Kyle's truck?

[AggieTJ2007]

any word on what the damage actually is?

[JB]

Not yet. It did begin to puke trans fluid all of a sudden. It is still parked in the driveway.

Kyle moved and needed a place to work on the Lighting for a few weeks to get it put back together. A blower is apparently in the works and should be done pretty soon.

[Sharpe]

A blower? I thought he just got the motor put back together and now hes gonna slap a blower on it?

[JB]

A blower? I thought he just got the motor put back together and now hes gonna slap a blower on it?

Blower is not going on yet like I thought, but he does have it and it is sitting in my garage :D Its getting dyno-tuned through Marillo Motorsports (sp?) once we put it back together, then retuned after he finds the right bracket for the blower.

[JB]

Boroscope results reveal cylinder wall scratches starting about 1" above the #8 piston. I didn't check the others. :(

[bcolman]

sorry to hear that, how bad are the scratches?

[JB]

A blower? I thought he just got the motor put back together and now hes gonna slap a blower on it?

Correction, blower IS going on now. :D The bracket is on the way, then we need to plumb up the intake/discharge tubes, get the startup chip installed, get headers painted and installed, and several other odds and ends. The trucks going to scream.

My 5.4 is taking a crap. Loud ticking noise, mechanic replaced timing chains/tensioners, but it is still making alot of noise.We think it might be a lifter/lash adjuster....driving it to Big Bend today regardless.

[Seth]

Nice, under warranty still? At 110k I am guessing no?

[JB]

no warranty. It made it to Big Bend and back but will be going to teh dealer in the morning.:rolleyes: Camped out for a few nights in the middle of no where. Its amazing how people live out there. Saw lots of BP, one in a sweet lifted Powerstroke. Got a ticket on 10 for 92 after passing a black smoke puffing stacked Dodge and giving him the eye.:D Damint!

Here is a pic of the Lightning blower. We need to bolt up the headers, fab up the intake and fill up the fluids.

[Seth]

Bp?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Bald *****?

[jerryg79]

Bp?

Border Patrol

[JB]

Bp?

your strap is in the back of the Bronco again. I took it with me this past weekend. Go get it.

[JB]

your strap-on is in the back of the Bronco again. I took it with me this past weekend. Go get it.

Fixed it :flipoff2:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

If I didn't have this ****ty internet you wouldn't have beat me to it... :flipoff3:

[JB]

The Lightning put 350 to the wheels and something over 400 on the torque. That was with only 3lb of boost. The goal is 8lbs, but they found out it needs a bigger fuel pump. After we get a bigger in-tank pump in it, it will get retuned.

[JB]

I finally pulled everything apart this afternoon. The cylinder walls have scratches, but nothing you can feel with a finger. It looks like if you took some steel wool and roughed up everything. There is also light rust from being open without spark plugs for 3 months. Other than that, nothing blatant stood out. I need to borrow a hoist to get the motor out so I can pull the pan to see what lies inside. Brandon? Do you still have one?

[AggieTJ2007]

hmm, interesting, at least you know the heads are good

[85cj7]

I finally pulled everything apart this afternoon. The cylinder walls have scratches, but nothing you can feel with a finger. It looks like if you took some steel wool and roughed up everything. There is also light rust from being open without spark plugs for 3 months. Other than that, nothing blatant stood out. I need to borrow a hoist to get the motor out so I can pull the pan to see what lies inside. Brandon? Do you still have one?

Clarke owns one at Dexter, you'll have to see if he will let you borrow it.

[RCcola55]

come get that *****

[colman]

i have one also that i regularly whore out, let me know if you need it

[Eckert]

[QUOTE=colman;221641]i have one also that i regularly whore out, let me know if you need it[/QUOTE

used and abused. its a testament to HF.

[sasquatch]

I finally pulled everything apart this afternoon. The cylinder walls have scratches, but nothing you can feel with a finger. It looks like if you took some steel wool and roughed up everything. There is also light rust from being open without spark plugs for 3 months. Other than that, nothing blatant stood out. I need to borrow a hoist to get the motor out so I can pull the pan to see what lies inside. Brandon? Do you still have one?

so not as dismal as we thought. let me know when you pull it and i'll help. did you hear about the lightining?

[JB]

so not as dismal as we thought. let me know when you pull it and i'll help. did you hear about the lightining?

I dunno, the motor still doesnt turn by hand. Somethings definetely ****ed inside.

The Lightning is also fooked and back over here. Water in the oil. He got the front oil leak fixed. It is going in the garage sometime this weekend once I get everything BACK out.

Pull Bronco motor maybe Sunday, maybe next Sunday.

[JB]

We just unloaded the Lightning and got it in the driveway. He thinks the leak is coming from the intake gaskets that we reused. He ordered some new ones and that would be great if that fixed the problem. It still has two small oil leaks from both heads near the back somewhere.

Once these issues are fixed, the next step will be more fuel, 8lbs, and a retune.

[JB]

come get that *****

I might come get it Sunday. Motor has to come out with trans AND somehow make it over the new bumper/stinger. Will be interesting.

[AggieTJ2007]

you can't drop the trans and then pull the motor,

Cut the stinger off and weld it back on later

[colman]

why does the trans even need to come out?

[JB]

I wasn't thinking when I typed that I. I guess I was thinking that since the motor is locked, I wouldn't be able to turn the crank to get the TC off. I will just have to slide it forward, then up.

[colman]

have you tried a big breaker bar or dropping the pan to see what is the matter? may be easier in the long run

[JB]

Have to pull the motor to pull the pan. I tried a breaker bar with Ed onthe other end, wasn't budging.

[colman]

good luck, let me know if you need my hoist

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Have to pull the motor to pull the pan. I tried a breaker bar with Ed onthe other end, wasn't budging.

:laughing:

Something is definietly forked, I thought we were going to twist the motor(/engine 'just for you Rowdy' ;) ) off the mounts.

[JB]

:gigem:....

[Eckert]

did you give up on it?

[JB]

If I was giving up on the Bronco, I would have done it a loooooooong time ago.

[JB]

Does a 93 ZJ have CV joints in teh D30? I have not worked on little axles before, but assumed it was a traditional style inner/outer with u joint.

[tigweld]

depends on what t-case I think

[AggieTJ2007]

yes if it is full time 4wd

[JB]

Cylinder #4 connecting rod bent....

[mudtoy67]

Yup...that would do it.:(

[Reckless]

just hammer it out :flipoff2:

[bcolman]

how bad is the block?

[JB]

The block looks fine. When I get a chance I am going to drop it off at Harrison's and have him go through it and the heads.

[AggieTJ2007]

it was keeping it from turning over?

put a new rod in and run it like that

[william_ace]

thats what i would do, why do you think the heads need to be checked?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

what ever bent that rod surely had to spread that force somewhere.

What put the dent on the skirt?

[tigweld]

the crank counter weight made the dent thats why it wouldn't turn

[Jackasic]

that sucks john

[JB]

I dropped the block of at Harrisons shop today. Should be checked out, cleaned up, and reassembled in a week or two. Anyone ever seen his shop?

[Doug Krebs]

I dropped the block of at Harrisons shop today. Should be checked out, cleaned up, and reassembled in a week or two. Anyone ever seen his shop?

I think sharpe has had experience with them:flipoff2:

[JB]

The motor is back together and ready to go in. Is TCC 09 a possibility....

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Yes, and unless there are torrential rains before/while you are there, you won't have to worry about going swimming. ;)



:flipoff2:

[JB]

I noticed this today. It looks like at some point in my limited Clayton experience, I bent a rock rings pretty good. The end of the studs is usually about 1/2" from the edge of the ring. It is flush on 1-2 studs on this wheel. It has a slow leak, but I pretty sure it is not related. I would have fooked the studs good without the rings.

Tie rod is fooked a little too.

Motor should go back in Sunday. Memorial Day K-Rocks is a possibility

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Those are Copperhead rings right?

[JB]

Yes

Motor going in today. Colman, this engine hoist could really use some casters, just letting you know.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Yes

Motor going in today. Colman, this engine hoist could really use some casters, just letting you know.


Zing!!! :laughing:


Good, get that biatch running and start helping us hunt a GN for the CO. trip!!

[JB]

Any suggestions on good 52" 3" wide springs? Need some for the front.

[JB]

Running 2.5" springs is doable with some washers. Does anyone know what Clarke ran on the Bronco? They flexed quite a bit, but were they 52"?

[bcolman]

i have 52's and am running some washers it may not be the correct way to do it, but it works

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Yes, 52's are definitely the way to go.

[bcolman]

i also took out the overload and with out shocks it doesnt act too squirly, but before the next trip front shocks will be installed

[JB]

What are the common Chevy 52" springs out of?

[bcolman]

half ton rears from the 80's, just be sure and measure cause there were a few different lengths, i got mine from a suburban, and my blazer has them stock rear also

[DRAGOONRANCH]

The 56's will do you a good job, but with your driving style, you will definitely need an anti-wrap.

[RCcola55]

and find a pack with as many leaves as possible. The chevy 52's are what me and cook used, and u remember how mine acted!

[colman]

how much lift do you have now. stock 52's give 4" in a chevy front application so if you got lift ones then you could get more or just drop down your brackets

[bcolman]

they will just help you clear those new tires that you should get

[JB]

I do not want to move any bracketry.

I run 94ish F350 diesel front springs, stock , but with the overload removed. Shackle is in the back. They are pretty much flat. They cleared 36s perfectly before I hackedthe fenders, now 38s would look about right. I need to sit about 3" higher than I do now.

So Chevy rear springs. From a 2wd or 4wd or does it matter? from a OBS chevy truck, or a 88+? I am guessing suburbans/k5s up to 91?

Is the center pin on these in the center? I do not think it is on my springs

[Doug Krebs]

I do not want to move any bracketry.

I run 94ish F350 diesel front springs, stock , but with the overload removed. Shackle is in the back. They are pretty much flat. They cleared 36s perfectly before I hackedthe fenders, now 38s would look about right. I need to sit about 3" higher than I do now.

So Chevy rear springs. From a 2wd or 4wd or does it matter? from a OBS chevy truck, or a 88+? I am guessing suburbans/k5s up to 91?

Is the center pin on these in the center? I do not think it is on my springs

John, I've got some off my blazer that you can look at if you want or use them to see if they'd work.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

on 52's, the pin is centered. On 56's, they are 26"/30". I believe most any half ton obs truck or suburban will have them in the rear. Some are 63" though. They flex real good, but are some surenuff long some*****es...

[Sharpe]

I do not want to move any bracketry.

I run 94ish F350 diesel front springs, stock , but with the overload removed. Shackle is in the back. They are pretty much flat. They cleared 36s perfectly before I hackedthe fenders, now 38s would look about right. I need to sit about 3" higher than I do now.

So Chevy rear springs. From a 2wd or 4wd or does it matter? from a OBS chevy truck, or a 88+? I am guessing suburbans/k5s up to 91?

Is the center pin on these in the center? I do not think it is on my springs

52's came in 70's and early 80's half tons for sure. Later models and prety much every 3/4 and 1 ton I've seen had 56" rears, which will also work with a different shackle location. 52's have the pin centered , 56's it is offset 4". I have 56's in Pigpen because they are currently easier for me to find (have 3 sets). It doesnt matter if the truck is a 2wd or 4wd, the springs are the same but stock hangers are different. 92+ trucks all had 63" rears. There are a ****ton of variations on leaf thickness and number of leafs per pack, with no aparent method to the madness. I personally think a thick ass main leaf with thin leafs for the rest of the pack is the way to go if you have the choice.

[RCcola55]

i hade 4 thin leafs and it wrapped like a *****, i think cook has two thick leafs and three thins ones and it flexs just as well ar my bronco did with way less wrap. he also made some crazy srping retainer that prevents the leaves for walking out on the 3in pad.