View Full Version : Swamp Donkey Progess
The F350 springs are 24/28". Would have to move brackets to make chevy 52s work, or rig up some offset u-bolt plate to move it forward 2". I did that in the rear, but only for 1".
rockfrawg
05-06-2009, 12:26 PM
88+ Chevy rear springs are the 63" that I was going to use on the Taco, I think the Suburbans in those years used shorter springs
Sharpe
05-06-2009, 03:35 PM
I think the Suburbans in those years used shorter springs
Nope, they're all 63".
I was really just wanted a quick fix to lift it a few inches. The quickest way would be to buy 4" lift springs for a 87-96 F350, which per 4WPW, are not cheap. Going to flexy 52s means moving the rear hangar and if I do that, I want to move it up into the frame.....more time, more fab blah blah. Not sure what I will do now. Just want it ready for K rocks or CO now.
The motor is back in. Mostly back together. I need to pick up an new alternator bracket from a junkyard maybe tomorrow. Old one is cracked pretty good. Maybe try and fire her up tomorrow night.
After that, I need to winch the tie rod back straight, then figure out the hydro assist I have been needing to do for 6 years
I have the motor all back together. I have fuel and spark, but it will not fire. Turns over all day. Stopped for the night, will hit it again tomorrow.
colman
05-09-2009, 10:07 PM
how is your ignition module? also are you sure you are tdc for cyl 1, maybe 180 out or just got the spark plug wire 1 hole over on the dist. whats your fuel pressure at. sometimes after pumps sit for a while sometimes they die. just saying
It has enough to start for sure. At first I wasn't getting fuel out of the high pressure frame rail pump, but was from the intank. I basically took it off, tested it and put it back on and now I have pressure up to the fuel rail.
Having it 180 out is a possibility. #1 is up. It was pushing my thumb up as I turned the crank.
The place where I ground the block might have been painted over...i need to check that, but I do not think that is keeping it from running.
KrazyKarl02
05-09-2009, 10:40 PM
Are you sure you have fuel? Do you know the injectors are firing? To check this you have to remove an injector or use noid lights.
On the klogger my injectors were not getting power because a relay was bad.
It was 180 out. It started right up and we got the timing set. Had an exhaust leak, fixed that....then had loud noise from rockers. Pulled the drivers side apart. I think I tightend them too tight. When I pulled them off just now, some of the pushrods were stuck to the rockers. Not looking forward to restting all the valves.
73bronco
05-10-2009, 08:30 PM
do you have roller rockers?
do you have roller rockers?
yes
I got it back together and I do not think it is making the noise anymore. Now the pretty much new water pump is pumping water out the weep hole. I think I hate this thing.
New water pump on today. No leaks yet. It still makes a weird noise occasionally. I think I have a bad lifter. **** it. Checked the new oil with maybe an hour on it. It was grey. **** it. Changed oil with some 20w50 and some lucas. Not going to check oil any more. **** it.
With the use of a ZJ, a strap, a chain and the F150 winch, the tie rod is semi straight again, so the new GLO diff cover went on. Tunes are sorta working. Trans shifts, but slowly. Need to make sure my hubs still engage and are not completely rusted. Ready for K Rocks.
BroncoJo
05-17-2009, 08:14 PM
I like your attitude:gigem:
I havent updated in awhile. The transmission now shifts like it should. Trans Specialties fixed it. The oil looks fine too. No leaks that I have seen yet. It has been in its resting place under a barn in La Grange until last week. Started right up. Greg has it in Magnolia fabbing up the trans crossmember to clear the front driveshaft. It has always needed some modification, but somehow I have just always gotten away with it.
I would like to get bigger tires on it by Clayton. I am thinking either 39"Iroks or 38" SXs. No 40"+ club for now. An H1 wheel rebuild is also in order.
DRAGOONRANCH
09-08-2009, 11:51 PM
What in the heel are you posting about this for, don't you have some comuning to be doing? :flipoff2:
uglyota
09-09-2009, 09:25 AM
I think he may be hiding from the rain :D
John if you get restless could you drive up to Waldorf Mine and Lake Edith campground for me and tell me if you see any elk? ;)
eight
09-09-2009, 12:24 PM
You could also look at 39.5" TSLs, they run small.
I havent updated in awhile. The transmission now shifts like it should. Trans Specialties fixed it. The oil looks fine too. No leaks that I have seen yet. It has been in its resting place under a barn in La Grange until last week. Started right up. Greg has it in Magnolia fabbing up the trans crossmember to clear the front driveshaft. It has always needed some modification, but somehow I have just always gotten away with it.
I would like to get bigger tires on it by Clayton. I am thinking either 39"Iroks or 38" SXs. No 40"+ club for now. An H1 wheel rebuild is also in order.
39.5x13.5x16.5 Iroks run around $320/tire.
38x12.5x16.5 SXs run $290/tire
Would like to find something used, but not having much luck finding much for 16.5"
I am a little confused. What exactly is a saginaw pump. I thought that is what I have. It is the black , pear shaped pump from 87+ ford truck v8s? For hydro assist, I should just need the cylinder, hoses, tabs, an additional resevoir, and to drill and tap my box. Correct?
william_ace
10-05-2009, 04:23 PM
the saginaw pump came from ford van v8s. or even the 300 for that matter. you have a serp. set up on your 302 so you'll want the power steering pump from lets just say a 1995 van with a 302. you'll also need the ac and power steering pump bracket from that year van. go check out Gordons, the last time i was out there i was 4 or 5 Ford v8 vans with the pumps and brackets still in them.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/553419/fullsize/dsc01150.jpg
KrazyKarl02
10-05-2009, 04:42 PM
If your pump looks like the one in William_ace's photo it is a saginaw. On my 1990 302 I did not have a saginaw. I swapped to a saginaw. I just removed my old pulley and put it on the new pump. Bolted right up. Had to get a different hose.
The saginaw is not required for hydro-assist, but it is generally a more beefy higher flowing pump. If your old pump goes out, I would make sure to have a saginaw.
Oddly enough, my thread (http://www.tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10116&highlight=power+steering&page=2) on this has a linke to a post by you on the part number, so yes, I would say you have a saginaw pump. So yes, get a cylinder, tap your steering box, hook up hoses and add some sort of reservoir. If it does not turn, swap the hoses.
But I still would want an external resevoir correct?
AggieTJ2007
10-05-2009, 07:15 PM
yes you would i believe PSC sells just the can
more importantly than the resevior you will need to add a cooler and use good fluid
Sharpe
10-05-2009, 07:31 PM
The oil cooler off a 90's Ford Esploder is a skinny stacked plate design that is about a square foot and has 3/8 hose barbs on it. I plan on putting one on Pigpen as soon as Clarke replaces the one I gave him and I put my hydro assist on.
Doug Krebs
10-05-2009, 08:05 PM
speedway sells an aluminum reservoir can for like 20
I have traded a few emails with Lance at PSC and I should be ordering it tomorrow and have it all ready to go by Clayton. My box probably needs a rebuild, as well as a ClarkeFab drill and tap.
I replaced a front shackle damaged from K rocks tonight to get rid of the gangsta lean, then took it out for a spin. She did 50 on some backroads:D
I have to tear into the tires/rims because 2 won't hold air overnight. I would just as soon put new bigger tires on at that point though. I might try out Krebs' 38s or spring for new tires.
A little 10.25 TLC is in order this weekend and then it will be ready for Alto.
bad pic of new t case skid and trans crossmember
Eckert
10-05-2009, 08:28 PM
what the lone bar up front for?
If you look close, you can see it uses the stock trans mount up in the top right corner. It kinda hoops around the front driveshaft. You can see how the driveshaft used to grind on the stock x member.
Ordered the steering! Finally! I spent way less than I always thought it would be. I got a cylinder, hoses, tabs, a resevoir that replaces my Saginaw resevoir, and an external resevoir.
KrazyKarl02
10-06-2009, 02:07 PM
Ordered the steering! Finally! I spent way less than I always thought it would be. I got a cylinder, hoses, tabs, a resevoir that replaces my Saginaw resevoir, and an external resevoir.
Can you supply part numbers and the places you bought them. I will be doing hydro-assist in the near future.
no part numbers. It is all from PSC for under $450
As far as the steering gear goes, I will assume that my gear box could use a good rebuilt. I will check prices on rebuilt ones from the parts store, but has anyone rebuilt one? Difficult?
Reckless
10-06-2009, 05:45 PM
not worth the effort, just get a rebuilt with a warrenty and be done with it
CheapJeep
10-06-2009, 08:28 PM
I rebuilt the GM box I used to have on the jeep when I tapped it for hydro assist. Fairly straight forward, I just followed the BillaVista tech thread on pirate. Just be careful on where you tap the box for the fittings.
Sharpe
10-06-2009, 08:53 PM
I rebuilt the GM box I used to have on the jeep when I tapped it for hydro assist. Fairly straight forward, I just followed the BillaVista tech thread on pirate. Just be careful on where you tap the box for the fittings.
So why isnt it on the jeep any more? :flipoff2:
CheapJeep
10-06-2009, 09:50 PM
Cuz I made the mistake of originally purchasing it from you...:flipoff2:
william_ace
10-06-2009, 11:27 PM
john, i think the pump you bought was an A1 cardone conversion pump. I dont think its the van pump especially if you have not changed out the PS and AC bracket. i've heard mixed reviews on their performance. If i was you i would go to the junk yard and get an actual sag pump, not the a1 cardone conversion.
Yeah that is the pump I have. I will probably get a rebuilt one from the store.
I checked and repacked the rear bearings and everything looked good. The rtv I had used between the hub and axle shaft crumbled away on one side so I 'right stuffed' it back together. Also cleaned some K Rocks from the bead of one tire, so now only 1 leaks.
DRAGOONRANCH
10-12-2009, 01:16 AM
So when are you installing the snorkel? :D
tigweld
10-12-2009, 08:04 AM
So when are you installing the snorkel? :D
I think the first thing would be to remember which side the airbox is on:flipoff2:
I think the first thing would be to remember which side the airbox is on:flipoff2:
That would have helped:flipoff2:
Clarke tapped my box yesterday. (insert Ed comment here)
I now need some male to male -6 to 1/4 npt fittings and will be good to go. I think ram mounting will be my only concern now. The leafs are in the way and clearing the diff cover will be an issue.
TMatheaus
10-26-2009, 10:37 AM
look at summit, jegs, or etrailer for the fittings you need,
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220647/
mudtoy67
10-26-2009, 10:51 AM
I'd probably go with steel.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM2517/
DRAGOONRANCH
10-26-2009, 10:51 AM
Clarke tapped my box yesterday. I now need some male to male ram mounting now. The cover will be an issue.
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/DRAGOONRANCH/GIFS/chairfall.gif
http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html
Any other tips on turning up the stock pump? Cook?
eight
10-26-2009, 05:11 PM
That's pretty much what I did. Works.
CheapJeep
10-26-2009, 05:54 PM
Did the same on my pump and it does work.
For the ram mount I used 1.5" chromo, ran it through the bender and welded it in. It's mounted in between the spring perch and housing.
bcolman
10-26-2009, 06:07 PM
i didnt do any mods to my pump, and it runs fine
AggieTJ2007
10-26-2009, 09:17 PM
the ram should not be too hard to mount
it just may not be completely where you would like it
stx4wheeler
10-26-2009, 10:08 PM
I moded my pump I'm not sure it did much good. If you have the pump out I would do it, if not I would leave it stock. John did you see the 39.5 tsl's with rims on craigslist Houston?
85cj7
10-26-2009, 10:36 PM
if your looking for tires. . .
http://lsjc.org/board/showthread.php?t=37483
RCcola55
10-27-2009, 11:32 PM
those r the fittings u need john
I got the fittings and a cooler yesterday. Summit's delivery is fast.
85cj7
10-31-2009, 02:55 PM
what size bore and what length stroke did you choose for your ram?
1.75 bore
8" stroke
.75" rod
The Donkey has 40s on the way:D
TMatheaus
11-09-2009, 06:31 PM
sweet, what kind, did you get chromo shafts too
IROKS.
No bling shafts just yet.
The insert was broken. Here it is next to the beefy PVC insert from 406 YJ on Pirate
AggieTJ2007
11-15-2009, 05:17 PM
how did you break it?
Another insert was also broken, but had not completly seperated yet. The new ones are probably 3/4" thick whereas the old ones are probably 1/4". It is sitting on jackstands awaiting new tires, new spindles and bearings, and hydo assist. Hopefully I can get someone at Dexter house to weld the tabs on for the ram and it should be ready for Clayton.
how did you break it?
I dunno. I just know I was surprised when I lost a bead at Katemcy. We reseated the bead and I did not feel like breaking the tire down until I had to for new tires. Those inserts were cheesy. It was like a flat peice of plastic, rolled into a circle, then somehow melted back together. It seperated at that seam.
DRAGOONRANCH
11-16-2009, 03:00 AM
That is the first one of those that I have heard of breaking. The broken one is the type I have in mine.
I hope to not have to break them down for a good long time, but I will definitely check them out next time I do. I wonder how hard it is to get the new thicker insert into the tire. With a little bit of water, the thinner ones slide in pretty easy.
I wonder how hard it is to get the new thicker insert into the tire. With a little bit of water, the thinner ones slide in pretty easy.
I am not looking forward to it.
DRAGOONRANCH
11-16-2009, 10:44 AM
I am not looking forward to it.
:laughing:
While I do have a tad bit more ass to put into it, I would think it shouldn't be too awful bad w/ a bit of soapy water (or cheap vegetable oil).
The tire lube I used to use here at work was nothing more than vegi oil with some type of stabilizer in it that smelled a bit orangy.
:laughing:
While I do have a tad bit more ass to put into it, I would think it shouldn't be too awful bad w/ a bit of soapy water (or cheap vegetable oil).
The tire lube I used to use here at work was nothing more than vegi oil with some type of stabilizer in it that smelled a bit orangy.
It was not that difficult once I figured it out, though if there was a hiddne camera in my garage, you would be laughing your ass off at me.
I covered the insert and tire bead in soapy water. Then, I placed the insert, upright, close to something I could support myself on(I used an 86 Ford on jackstands). Next I balanced the tire ontop of the insert, climbed up on the insert while suporting myself on the Bronco, then slipped each foot off the insert, into the tire, jumped up and down, and it would pop on. If you do not put your feet inside the tire and just jump on top of the tire, the insert will pop all the way through.
I ordered some brass 45s and some metal valve stems, but they are threaded, which means I would have find a 9/16x18 tap and tap the hole. I think I might just put some new rubber ones in.
I plan on repainting the rock rings this weekend and gettting it all mounted up.
Does anyone have an extra locking hub for a 30 spline 60? I tried to warranty my Warns, but those hubs are on backorder until mid December.
On the steering, maybe a dumb question, but how can I manually advance the ram out, so that it is centered, so that I can figure out mounting with the tires straight.
bcolman
11-17-2009, 11:31 PM
what part of the hub do you need, or do you need the whole thing, i have lots of parts so let me know and we can work something out
as for the ram, you mount it with the tires turned full lock one way, which ever way the ram will be when not extended
My list:
mount 39.5"s
hydro assist
buy/install CB
refill the iPod
fill the cooler
pray F150 transmission makes it to Clayton.
what part of the hub do you need, or do you need the whole thing, i have lots of parts so let me know and we can work something out
I need the whole thing
85cj7
11-18-2009, 08:49 PM
My list:
pray F150 transmission makes it to Clayton.
I knew I missed something:gigem:
Normally, it is great. But approaching 155k now, it has a pretty bad stuter/slip/hiccup. Been driving it that way for 20k now.
Eckert
11-18-2009, 09:16 PM
Normally, it is great. But approaching 155k now, it has a pretty bad stuter/slip/hiccup. Been driving it that way for 20k now.
you wouldnt have this problem if you bought a real truck :p
bcolman
11-19-2009, 12:13 PM
I need the whole thing
pm sent
The hubs came in afterall. Thanks Brian and Frick for the offers.
I also forgot to mention that I scored a free practically new 39.5" TSL for a 16.5" rim in the trash tire bin at 4wpw. It has a small cut on one of the sidewalls, but does not come close to going all the way through. Perfect spare.
My list:
mount 39.5"s
hydro assist
buy/install CB
refill the iPod
fill the cooler
pray F150 transmission makes it to Clayton.
It looks scweeeet :beer:
stx4wheeler
11-22-2009, 12:23 AM
Mmmmm, the smell of new tires!!
DRAGOONRANCH
11-22-2009, 01:39 AM
http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/DRAGOONRANCH/GIFS/worthless.gif
Reckless
11-22-2009, 10:52 AM
John, i live 5 mi from your place. if you need anyhelp. give me a call
Well the tires have held air since I put them all together so I am happy about that. The first time I took her for a spin, I took out the neighbors dachsund :( , so they already have one casualty. He was known for chasing cars on our street, so I guess it was his time, but a ****ty way to meet your new neighbors thats for sure. Nonetheless, I got to take my family out in it on the backroads out here on Thanksgiving and my Dad actually liked it, despite all his ****talking over the past 12 years about what a worthless pile/moneypit it is:D
Today I was able to get the new housing on the back of the pump as well as drill out the fittings to a larger size. It went from a 1/8" hole to 7/32". I also stretched the spring a little bit. There were no shims inside the piston, so I left it alone.
I got the new gear back on as well. Tomorrow I plan to find a decent location for the resevoir, and determine the cooler mounting. I think I am just going to mount it with some of those plastic 'go thru the radiator fins' type mounts. It woudl give me plenty of space to mount, and it would be outside the engine compartment for the most part. Problems with that?
A package of "o-rings" came with the kit, except they are not rounded on the edges. Like you took some rubber hose, and cut little pieces off of it. Where do these go in the system?
I used teflon tape for the fittings Clarke tapped for. Ok? Or do I need a different type of sealant on those threads?
CheapJeep
11-28-2009, 09:32 PM
I used the same type of mounting setup on my old trans cooler with no problems.
KrazyKarl02
11-28-2009, 09:48 PM
Teflon tape will work fine in this application. The square cut o-rings are for fittings that can rotate, I think. Probably on the back of the pump.
Doug Krebs
11-29-2009, 03:08 PM
Sweet! Now you'll be tall enough to ford that creek in Clayton:flipoff2:
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/h22-straight-10-push-lock-fitting-p-589.html
Probably dumb question, but does the yellow thing do anything or is that just how they come?
I am going to need some 45s to get the feed line a little more vertical. I didn't realize once you push those hoses on those fittings, that it is not easy to get them back off.
The cooler is just going to be hung off the radiator, and be in the return line, above the gearbox, but below the resevoir.
Thes square cut washers provided do not really want to go into the brass fittings. The larger one though did fit in the 90degree fitting.
Sharpe
11-29-2009, 06:40 PM
After driving all over the ****ing BCS area finding all the fittings for my hydro setup, I have decided Capitol Bearing (aka Aeroquip) on Finfeather will be my first stop for hose **** from now on.
AggieTJ2007
11-29-2009, 07:54 PM
ive never used those square cut o rings on any of the fitting.
your feed line looks good how it is
85cj7
11-29-2009, 08:17 PM
did you change your pump as well?
The pump is not that old. It is the A1 Cardone pump that may or may not be saginaw. It does not have an application, so I dunno. If it does not hold up, then I will find a van pump.
85cj7
11-29-2009, 08:53 PM
just wondering, I have the stock mustang pump with reservior, so I was wondering if I would have to get another reservior like you did.
kinda like this. . . http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?skuDescription=Atsco+/+Power+Steering+Pump&categoryDisplayName=Suspension+%26+Steering&fromString=&itemIdentifier=8980_0_2558_&productId=8980&sortType=&parentId=46-0&filterByKeyWord=&isSearchByPartNumber=&navValue=14600160&categoryNValue=&fromWhere=&itemId=160-0&displayName=Power+Steering+Pump&store=1532&searchText=&brandName=Atsco
I do not really have an exact answer. If you search fullsizebronco, the pump they all nut over is the A1 pump I have. Though I do not think it is the best for adding hydro assist too. My pump had the resevoir on it, just like the one you linked to, but that resevoir comes off and PSC supplies a new piece that bolts on with a fitting that can then be hooked up to a larger resevoir, that PSC provides. It retains the original pressure fitting, which you can modify as we talked about a few pages back. I think Colman told me that that piece that replaces the original resevoir is actually a factory part for something.
colman
11-29-2009, 11:10 PM
the replacement can on the back doesnt have the filler housing and just covers the round pump. it is from several applications with hydraboost and a remote resevoir
DRAGOONRANCH
11-29-2009, 11:17 PM
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/h22-straight-10-push-lock-fitting-p-589.html
Probably dumb question, but does the yellow thing do anything or is that just how they come?
It just identifies it as a pushlock fitting. If you don't use the right type of hose with it, then you will more than likely need to put a clamp on it.
I talked to PSC. The square cut orings go inside the new canister that boltedto the back of the pump. I guess where the bolts go through? I will have to pull it off to figure out.
I have an intense hatred for power steering pulley removal/installation tools
KrazyKarl02
12-06-2009, 08:03 PM
I have an intense hatred for power steering pulley removal/installation tools
X 2!
It would not be so bad if the pulley was made of metal and not some composite crap!
I did not get the ram welded up today like I was planning, but I did get alot of the little **** done. All fittings and hoses are tight, pump is back on as well as the ****ing pulley, and I got the fan /shroud/belt back together.
Before mounting the ram, I needed to figure out my lack of turning to the right. Some lengthening of the drag link seems to have fixed the problem. I also discovered that my steering stop(s) is actually my diff cover.
I am going to mount the fixed end of the ram right between the u-bolts on the pass. side and the live end as close to center of the TR as I can. After some measuring, everything should clear. The ram should be about and inch above the bottom of the TR. I will need to be careful in Clayon.
I would really like to flip the TR up to top of the knuckle, but it leaves maybe 1/16" clearance with leafs.
Clarke, I am going to try and make it back up here one day this week so we can knock it out. I want to have Saturday to fix little things, then maybe test wheel soggybottom/47/spring creek on Sunday.
AggieTJ2007
12-06-2009, 09:45 PM
sweet, oh the ram should help that not turning to the right issue
I was able to get everything finished today on the hydro assist. Clarke welded the tabs on and even builid a little skid off of the tie rod to protect the ram, since it is so low. Big thanks to him.
I ended up cutting the hose lengths for the wrong ports, so a couple trips into Napa and I was set. I turned it lock to lock many times and it feels really good. I am sure there is still some air in the system, but hopefully it will work itself out. Tomorrow I plan to get all the tools loading into it, install cb and antenna, and I am sure a few other odds and ends, then load it on the trailer.
AggieTJ2007
12-12-2009, 09:25 PM
looks good
CB and iPod zip tie holder installed.
Tools packed and ready for Clayton.
Clayton damage was minimal. Luckily the trashed trans pan and filter seem to be all that was affected. I put the Mustang pan on for now so that I could verify that the trans was still in good working order. It does not whine anymore, and goes into gear just fine. I need to take it to Rusty's to get him to patch the exhaust back together.
I got the pass. door pulled and new junkyard hinges put on. I will need to get Greg to cut out a new piece for the tubes to weld to and it should be good.
I got the damaged roller fairlead off and using F150s winch, pulled the fairlead mount back straight. The cable is damaged in several spots after probably less than 6 pulls on it. I think I am going to order some rope and an aluminum hawse fairlead for it.
As for the steering, it never failed, just had several leaks. I purple powered everything and will find the leak once I can drive it.
Got the correct trans pan ordered
Rusty patched the exhaust back together
Copied Cook and used a JD bottle for steering resevoir overflow
Still need to track down small hydro leak
DD got some new bands in its transmission.
All in all, ready for next run:)
More turd polishing. Bolted down a UWS 'footlocker' to hold tools/fluids/spare parts etc.
Decided to ditch the rear seat for the majority of the runs I go on. It will still slide in for the yearly Shiloh trip where skankcarrying capacity is of higher importance than a spare tire. I plan on mounted the Hi-Lift to some wheel studs that can weld to the floorpan right there by the toolbox. Should be easy access. A bumper is in order. It will include another XP9500, some LEDs, and some d-ring mounts. Will also run back up towards the rear tires.
New stock tranny pan is back on.
Other than that, everything is working great. The steering will always be an issue because of the low mounting tie rod. I will either need to find a balljoint high steer knuckle, or just find a KP axle and swap everything over.
The t-case and driveshafts will be the next weak point. Thinking Atlas and some properly built shafts one day. Very happy with it right now.
RCcola55
03-09-2010, 10:57 PM
why not just add a 4to1 klune?
DRAGOONRANCH
03-10-2010, 01:37 AM
Do your driveshafts before you gear down any more. Save yourself the trouble of repairing them when the added torque stresses them out. :D
x2 on the klune
colman
03-10-2010, 01:41 AM
but if he wants the klune he will have to do shafts at the same time. get out the check book and play with the cool kids. there are already 2 klunes in the club, lets make it a third
Reckless
03-10-2010, 01:47 AM
go with the northwest fab black box
RCcola55
03-10-2010, 02:16 AM
go with the northwest fab black box
y when you can get the klune in 4 to 1 and you dont have to use adaptors for fords???:rolleyes:
Reckless
03-10-2010, 03:01 AM
the black box looks way better engineered than the klune.
Sharpe
03-10-2010, 09:12 AM
the black box looks way better engineered than the klune.
:laughing::laughing: Riiigghhhtttttt....
RCcola55
03-10-2010, 09:27 AM
the black box looks way better engineered than the klune.
thats along the lines of saying a happytime looks better engineered then a LS motor. You sir are dumb
robertf03
03-10-2010, 09:39 AM
GM has engineers?
AggieTJ2007
03-10-2010, 09:40 AM
the black box looks way better engineered than the klune.
they are almost the same thing
bcolman
03-10-2010, 09:47 AM
the only difference i know of is the black box has an input bearing, that being said, i hear about more people running a klune than i do a black box
I have contemplated the Klune, but have not researched it yet. Bascially just goes bt trans and tcase? SO longer front shaft, shorter rear shaft? Problems with that are that I already have a trans crossmember that bends arount the front d shaft and and fairly stout t case skid built. How long is the Klune?
RCcola55
03-10-2010, 11:06 AM
around 8in i belive
bcolman
03-10-2010, 11:08 AM
8 inches sounds about right, but ill measure mine when i get home
agjohn02
03-10-2010, 11:30 AM
8 inches sounds about right, but ill measure mine when i get home
you wish!
Eckert
03-10-2010, 12:24 PM
how much does a 'david' klune-v cost?
RCcola55
03-10-2010, 01:18 PM
bout 1500 new
DRAGOONRANCH
03-10-2010, 11:11 PM
You can run across them cheap on pbb classifieds if you keep your eye out. Someone seems to always be selling one there.
TdmayfieldIV
04-15-2010, 07:55 PM
Do you have any idea how much tube you used to make the cage, fender bars and doors?
RCcola55
04-18-2010, 03:33 PM
Do you have any idea how much tube you used to make the cage, fender bars and doors?
i would say atleast 200 feet and it was done by a very good fabicator, plan on using a lot more then that with all the mess ups that will happen
why not just add a 4to1 klune?
I should call Klune, but I think the Klue unit would replace the adapter/tailhousing on the back of my AOD, putting my t-case only 3" further back. Sound right? If so, I could probably just move my skid back a little. Sucky part would be new driveshafts.
edit: nvm, i should have kept reading.
davido
04-27-2010, 05:26 PM
Sounds about right. I love mine. I'm not sure why they're not more popular. The simplicity and range of options that it gives you is great.
stx4wheeler
04-27-2010, 10:39 PM
Daveo and bcolman are you running the 2.62:1 klune or the 4:1?
bcolman
04-27-2010, 10:53 PM
david is running the 4:1 and i am running the 2.76:1, i love mine and would recommend it but i dont think i would spent the money to buy a new one, i would look for a used one or a used atlas, but i am still in college and have any money
Eckert
04-28-2010, 07:53 PM
Solid Axle Knuckles with Hi Steer arms:
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=33035
Solid Axle Knuckles with Hi Steer arms:
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=33035
sweet. Bronco steering redo number 17 coming soon.
I am hoping that I can just redrill the knuckles to accept my Ford spindle so I do not have to jack with running Chevy outers.
Plan to get some bling shafts and joints in there at the same time.
Rear suspension will be getting lowered 1.5", as well as some new shocks, and possibly some revising of the shock mounting.
85cj7
04-30-2010, 11:36 AM
I don't know about redrilling the knuckles. I would think that would be a bad idea. The knuckles are cast thicker in the area on the back of were the stock studs are pressed in. If re-drilling into the knuckle at an area where the casting is not as thick would make the knuckle weak. I guess you'll have to look at the back of the knuckle when you get them to see if the casting is a consistent thickness or not.
stx4wheeler
04-30-2010, 12:02 PM
I would not redrill the knuckles. This sounds like a horrible idea. Do you really want to take the chance of your tire/brakes and everything falling off?
Sorry, I meant redrill the spindles to the Chevy 6 stud pattern. I assume my rotor would clear all the nuts.
If I can make my Ford spindles work, then I can buy Ford chromo shafts, keep my Ford hubs and rotors, just having to by new calipers as the Solid knuckles require the 94+ Ford bolt-on calipers.
If I can't, then I need to buy GM/Dodge D60 spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, and outer shafts. Probably bearings too?
Both options will require 35 spline driveflanges, but the 1rst option would still allow me to use my stock Ford shafts as spares(coupled with some old Warn 30 spline hubs.)
Broncograveyard has a set of chromo 4340 shafts with no brand name on them for $465, or they have the same but Yukon for $740. Not sure who makes the no name. What is another good site for buying 60 shafts, particulary GM 35 spline outers?
AggieTJ2007
04-30-2010, 09:23 PM
you should be able to redrill the spindles I don't see why not
85cj7
05-01-2010, 11:26 AM
I'm not sure how these compare in price to others you have found but. . . http://completeoffroad.com/c-62678-axles-and-bearings-dana-60-dana-60-stubs.html
I would need 2 of these...
http://completeoffroad.com/i-123672-chevy-dodge-12-35-spline-chrome-moly-outer-stub-axle-w46100.html
...coupled with some chromo Ford inners.
Re drilling my Ford spindles is not going to work. Will need GM spindles and spindle studs
Are the hubs the same GM v. Ford?
Took it apart today. The Warn Premiums only lasted 3 trips. The inner gear was cracked.
Eckert
05-02-2010, 07:00 PM
I would need 2 of these...
Re drilling my Ford spindles is not going to work. Will need GM spindles and spindle studs
Took it apart today. The Warn Premiums only lasted 3 trips. The inner gear was cracked.
why not?
and that sucks.
On a side note...
39.5x13.5x16.5 IROK Bias on H1 recented wheels with rock rings = 155lbs. Weighed them today on a bathroom scale.
why not?
and that sucks.
I could do it, but at least one of the holes will overlap an old hole in the spindle.
not sure what is up with the half moon shape cutout on the right side. Both GM and Ford spindles have circular flanges no? Maybe something to do with the caliper.
Reckless
05-02-2010, 09:29 PM
its where the caliper floats
Going with teh GM outers is going to cost me too much. I played with it today and started drilling my Ford spindles to work. The edge of one hole will overlap the edge of another hole, but I will still be able to get use a stud and nut. I realize this is a little ghetto, but I hope it works, as it will save money.
For the passenger side, what about mounting the drag link and tie rod on the same bolt? I thnk I have seen that done before with no issues. Just stack misalignment washers to seperate the heims. There is room to drill another hole, but I would rather not.
tigweld
05-06-2010, 11:06 PM
better be one badarse bolt with that much leverage, or make a custom spacer for the middle
RCcola55
05-07-2010, 12:03 AM
i was thinking about doing the same thing on my xj, but possibly figre out a way to weld a brace onto the knuckle to try and make it double shear, basiclly hiem knuckle hiem brace
bcolman
05-07-2010, 01:04 AM
i was thinking about doing the same thing on my xj, but possibly figre out a way to weld a brace onto the knuckle to try and make it double shear, basiclly hiem knuckle hiem brace
something like this? http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=11154947&postcount=668
RCcola55
05-07-2010, 11:49 AM
ya similiar but actually welding to the knucles since i wont be using highsteer arms, but in john cas do the same but one uner the arm and one above
I got the Solid knuckles installed finally. Had to get a stud/nut kit from SOlid because the typical spindle stud/nut kit for GM will not work. Just need to order the expensive stuff now. Shafts, u-joints, spindles, hubs, flanges, rotors, calipers, bearings.
I have the high steer arms marked and ready to be drilled. I do not have a drill press, really just hopeing a machine shop will knock it out. Anywhere besides Vilas? I guess Cooks could do it.
RCcola55
05-22-2010, 06:51 PM
i can probably do it on the drill press at work, but i would recommend buying a good 3/4in bit from mack to do it with
Eckert
05-24-2010, 11:43 AM
it sill doesn't make any sense to me why SOLID would want you to convert to GM outters?
and what was the issue with redrilling your stock spindles to work?
agjohn02
05-24-2010, 01:43 PM
I got the Solid knuckles installed finally. Had to get a stud/nut kit from SOlid because the typical spindle stud/nut kit for GM will not work. Just need to order the expensive stuff now. Shafts, u-joints, spindles, hubs, flanges, rotors, calipers, bearings.
I have the high steer arms marked and ready to be drilled. I do not have a drill press, really just hopeing a machine shop will knock it out. Anywhere besides Vilas? I guess Cooks could do it.
custom fab, accurate machine
Sharpe
05-24-2010, 02:14 PM
Brazos Valley Driveline would probably be worth a call as well.
uglyota
05-24-2010, 02:38 PM
PM krebs?
it sill doesn't make any sense to me why SOLID would want you to convert to GM outters?
and what was the issue with redrilling your stock spindles to work?
Hard to explain, but the Solid knuckle is 'narrower' than a stock Ford knuckle. The spindle mounting surface is about 1/2"-3/4" closer to the center of the truck. No big deal until you look at a Ford 60 spindle vs. a GM 60 spindle.
gm
http://extremeaxlesales.com/ProductImages/bearing/chevy%20spin.jpg
ford
http://www.emsoffroad.com/store/images/spindle.jpg
The backside of the Ford spindle that slides into knuckle extends too far, contacting the axle shaft, which means you can not fully bolt down the spindle b/c it is just pushing on the shaft.
Eckert
05-24-2010, 03:58 PM
would TTB spindles work?
i would think a ttb 44 spindle would be much smaller. Maybe a D50 spindle, but I doubt it. Redrilling them just perfect was an enormous PITA though. I think I am going to do it right, it is just going to cost me alot. $440 for the forged hubs and $320 for the forged spindles jus to get started. Still need, brake caliper brackets, calipers, rotors, bearins, flanges, u-joints, and 35spl outers.
A regular non forged, non Solid Axle hub and spindle will work, but it means I have to run Ford brakes, which means I need to find the stock Ford caliper brackets and then space them accordingly.
It is a general cluster****.
KrazyKarl02
05-24-2010, 04:55 PM
I think Eckert was talking about TTB 50 spindles. The hubs are the same as a Dana 60 and I think the outers are too.
agjohn02
05-24-2010, 05:24 PM
sounds like a terrible business plan on Solid's part. What's the purpose of all this? Slightly higher steer?
RCcola55
05-24-2010, 05:50 PM
sounds like a terrible business plan on Solid's part. What's the purpose of all this? Slightly higher steer?
Strength
agjohn02
05-24-2010, 06:19 PM
Strength
of course all new shafts, joints and hubs are stronger, but what was the original intent of the new knuckles? are the stock knuckles weak? couldn't you buy a kingpin 60 for less?
of course all new shafts, joints and hubs are stronger, but what was the original intent of the new knuckles? are the stock knuckles weak? couldn't you buy a kingpin 60 for less?
good point.
The intent was to get the tie rod over the leafs. I needed balljoint knuckles with high steer arms I ASSumed I could make Ford outers work, making this relatively inexpensive. I was wrong.
RCcola55
05-24-2010, 06:58 PM
of course all new shafts, joints and hubs are stronger, but what was the original intent of the new knuckles? are the stock knuckles weak? couldn't you buy a kingpin 60 for less?
Ford kingpin and balljoint knuckles are very weak, even if his intention was to just get highsteer, the added strength of the knuckles is a huge bonus, ask cook
stx4wheeler
05-24-2010, 07:43 PM
Ttb 50 spindles are the same as 60 spindles they wouldn't work either. The difference in ttb 50 and 60 monobeams are the stub has a smaller u-joint.
agjohn02
05-24-2010, 08:46 PM
good point.
The intent was to get the tie rod over the leafs. I needed balljoint knuckles with high steer arms I ASSumed I could make Ford outers work, making this relatively inexpensive. I was wrong.
That sucks. Does everyone have to do this with solid knuckles? I guess they designed them for their new axles and not Joe Wheeler to easily swap out. Where do they get new GM 60 spindles? Can you have the boss on your ford spindles machined to fit?
tigweld
05-25-2010, 08:03 AM
there is no way you could just make a spacer to fit between the spindle and knuckle?
agjohn02
05-25-2010, 08:37 AM
there is no way you could just make a spacer to fit between the spindle and knuckle?
I'm guessing that would fubar the caliper/rotor alignment.
there is no way you could just make a spacer to fit between the spindle and knuckle?
This is what my plan is for this weekend. I am going to try using the GM brake bracket as the spacer, thus running Ford outers with GM brakes. The width I lost with the narrower knuckle witll be regained with the bracket, hopefully putting everything back where it is suppose to be. The Ford outer should still work, but brake caliper, rotor alignment, well I will just have to see.
I have to buy the brake caliper bracket anyway, so it this doesnt work, I still have to use them.
Eckert
05-25-2010, 09:31 AM
since your still going to use the Ford stuff. the TTB spindles wont work why, minus redrilling them.
http://tm94f2504x4.com/images/D60D50SpindleDifference640.jpg
Ford d60 on left, TTB50 on right?
Eckert
05-25-2010, 10:08 AM
Ford d60 on left, TTB50 on right?
you are correct
stx4wheeler
05-25-2010, 10:12 AM
Huh damn I guess I'm dumb, I thought the spindles were the same.
do you have a D50 ttb spindle I could borrow?
I guess they designed them for their new axles and not Joe Wheeler to easily swap out. Where do they get new GM 60 spindles? ?
This
Their spindles are forged and have a cut out or the caliper to float.
http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=22&idcategory=10
Found later model Ford brake brackets from Oreillys. Just need to figure out wich Ford spindle I need to redrill in order to make everything line up. Or use the spindles I have and space them out some.
http://www.partsmike.com/store/sc_images/products/1423_image.jpg
This is what I need. From Parts Mike.
RCcola55
05-26-2010, 11:04 PM
arms r done
I'll try and pick them up Friday, if not Sat. Thanks alot.
agjohn02
06-01-2010, 05:36 PM
is it a 99-04 axle?
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=890475&highlight=axles
93. But building parts for 99+ D60s seems like the buisness to get into, as they are probably a whole lot easier to find these days.
I came back up today to put some of it back together. Here is the final axle build list:
93 Ford D60
4.88 Yukon gears
Detroit
GLO cover
Stock inner shafts
5-806x Spicer non-greaseable joints
Yukon 4340 35spline outers
Spicer upper/lower balljoints (installed then removed the cheapo Oreilly brand)
SOLID balljoint knuckles machined for high steer
SOLID high steer arms
SOLID forged 'Chevy' style spindles w/ new bearing and seals
SOLID 'Chevy' brake caliper brackets
SOLID forged wheel hubs
rotors are Chevy, from a 80ish K20
calipers are from a 80ish K10
wheel studs - i do not know the application, but I have a PN
1.5" steering links, heims
PSC assist ram
Need to pick up some bearings/races tomorrow
I haven't purchased drive flanges yet, but SOLID's are $200, so I will probably buy those.
I replaced the center pins on the leaf springs. Both were bent and all u-bolts were loose. Replaced all u-bolts on the front axle as well. NAPA has a good selection of them that they can get in a day, but they are stupid pricey. $27 a piece.:eek:
The tie rod has a wave to it, but should work fine. The only fab left will be making a longer drag link and making the mounts for the ram.
Spent way more than I intended, which is why it still has stock inners but I have wheeled it pretty good for 6+ years on 36s and only broke 2 stubs. One on a hard drivers side roll with the tire spinning fast in 4LO and the other in a wieird situation, stationary, with the wheel cocked, winching AColman up a hill at Shiloh. Disassembly would reveal that it was fractured prior.
Anyhow, hopefully Clarke can help me get the d link squared away and maybe get a rear bumper on it. I would really link to get it street legal. I have a plan to lower the rear about 2" as well. ONce it is all up and running again in a couple weeks, I am thinking of maybe a Clayton weekend trip if anyone is down. Also thinking about a some sort of beach trip, but not sure what is out there.
BroncoJo
06-15-2010, 10:29 PM
Your work looks pretty sweet and I'm definitely down for any beach trip.:gigem:
colman
06-16-2010, 12:02 AM
sounds like you got the front brake kit that lets you run 15" rims......
I havent mounted up the caliper yet to see how it lines up, but it should. If the single piston Chevy calipers are not cutting it, I can removed the Chevy brake bracket, bolt on a Ford bracket to the bosses on the knuckle, and run a 3/4-1 ton Ford dual piston caliper.
85cj7
06-16-2010, 09:25 AM
with the k-series rotor and caliper it will fit 15" rims but you have to grind the caliper some. I have those brakes on both my front and back and had to grind them both.
RCcola55
06-16-2010, 10:07 AM
he has h1 wheels
Got it together and mounted the tires to see if it was any wider. I think it is a little wider now. The hubs were offset .5" from the Ford hubs, but the knuckle was narrower, figured it come out about the same. I will find out next time i load it on teh trailer. Other pic shows that I had to remove a very small amount of material from teh new outers to fit through the knuckle. The old Ford outer stuff is for sale (Ford 60 hubs/rotors, 30 spline outers, inner spindle seals)
my camera brings the suck apparently
colman
06-17-2010, 12:03 AM
ive put 15" wheels on those brakes before and they didn't need to be ground. unless u have rediculous back spacing
Random Tech Question:
The calipers are from say a 75 K10. I found what I think/thought was a chevy banjo bolt inthe Help section. Drilled out the 'block' on my braided line, bolted it together, but it still leaked slightly. I had copper washers on both sides. Went to store and got brake hose for 75 K10. See pic. What is the purpose of the 'ears' on each side of the block? Is it on backwards? Does it matter? Are banjo bolts tapered? After that bolt goes through the block and two washers, there is not much thread left. I might need a longer one, but I dunno. I think this one might be leaking slightly too. I am going to go back out and check it in a bit.
bburris
07-07-2010, 09:01 PM
Don't the ears keep it from spinning on the caliper? I think they just act as keepers in that notch where you have them...
85cj7
07-07-2010, 10:11 PM
ya like Brett said the ears are to keep the banjo fitting from spinning on the caliper and yes you do have yours on backwards. The flat portion of the ear should be against the caliper. No banjo fittings are not tapered, however the bolts in a sense are. On the bolt the threaded portion is a smaller OD than the non-threaded shank. Measure the length of the shank on the banjo bolt and compare it to the thickness of the banjo fitting, they should be the same. Hope this helps.
Measure the length of the shank on the banjo bolt and compare it to the thickness of the banjo fitting, they should be the same. Hope this helps.
I bet this is going to be my issue. Is there a better source to find proper banjo bolts other than the 2 or 3 that every parts store has in the Help/Dorman section?
85cj7
07-08-2010, 09:59 AM
bryan hose and gasket has a good assortment in stock, ask for jimmy.
colman
07-10-2010, 11:03 AM
ive used many form horeillys and never had an issue
In the pic, the fitting is on the correct way. If I flip it, then the 'ears' do not 'engage' the tabs on teh caliper, thus it would let it spin. I think my issue was putting it together and taking it apart a few times using the same copper washers. I put some fresh ones on there and it seems to be fine.
bburris
07-10-2010, 11:54 AM
Dumb question, but couldn't you swap them left to right so the flat part of that ear is flush against the caliper?
Finally no leaks from the braking setup. Ended up replacing one line from the prop valve to the pass. side hose.
I might still have some air in the lines. Right now, I can only lock up the rear on a hard brake. And the rear locks up nice and quick. Pedal is a little more spongy than before.
I ended up pulling off both steering assist hoses until I can get a new mount built for the ram. I got some JIC caps for the ports. It seems to steer just fine now, like before the ram, but I am gettting a loud creaking from what I think is the box, and the box seems to get pretty hot pretty fast. Not sure why it would be doing that.
Since it is wider now, Clarke is building some driveover fenders for the trailer. Pics hopefully next week.
stx4wheeler
07-11-2010, 10:24 PM
The tube fenders on my trailer work awesome and blend in well John. There are some pics in the rig sled thread if they are something you like and they weren't hard to build.
Thanks to Clarke, the trailer now sports some drive-over fenders. The pics suck but I will get some good ones later. We still need to weld in the inner skins and paint it. The material is 2x4 box 3/16" wall cut into 5 pieces to mimic the radius of the original fender. After the inner piece is on, and it is painted, it will look very slick.
sasquatch
08-15-2010, 11:15 PM
do this on the rear springs
redcagepatrol
08-15-2010, 11:27 PM
what is that supposed to do? i can't believe there is a wedge stuck in there too...
DRAGOONRANCH
08-15-2010, 11:43 PM
I believe he put that on there to keep the springs lined up. IIRC he was having them spread out at one time.
85cj7
08-16-2010, 01:27 AM
I did this but in the opposite direction (ie. smarter :flipoff2:)
Changing out steering columns is a pain in the ass. I got the new junkyard one in, and the tilt jaw gear thing was broken, so had to rob parts off of the old one.
I do still need to do something about the rear springs spreading apart.
KrazyKarl02
11-14-2010, 12:56 PM
Changing out steering columns is a pain in the ass.
Yes it is, I figured it would be like an hour job, it is more..... Unless you are Clarke, who is going to post up how much faster he could do it than me. God I hope one day I can be a man like Clarke and change Ford water pumps in an hour....
RCcola55
11-14-2010, 01:08 PM
Yes it is, I figured it would be like an hour job, it is more..... Unless you are Clarke, who is going to post up how much faster he could do it than me. God I hope one day I can be a man like Clarke and change Ford water pumps in an hour....
Damnit Karl:flipoff2:
both sides look like this. The upper has pull out close to 1/2". Not sure why.
bcolman
11-15-2010, 10:59 AM
if you still have the receipts check and make sure they are the correct application.
DRAGOONRANCH
11-15-2010, 11:31 AM
[karl]just do a few sweet jumps and once they are back in place, weld them in...[karl]
KrazyKarl02
11-15-2010, 01:59 PM
[karl]just do a few sweet jumps and once they are back in place, weld them in...[karl]
Good idea!
Maybe wrong camber bushing? Stumped. Anyone have a balljoint 60 they can take pictures of?
I am going to chalk it up to either bad balljoints or I did something pretty dumb/****ing sweet at Shiloh and just do not remember. New XRF balljoints in and ready for Clayton. Just need to deal with the trans mount and I am ready to go.
I am going to chalk it up to either bad balljoints or I did something pretty dumb/****ing sweet at Shiloh and just do not remember. New XRF balljoints in and ready for Clayton. Just need to deal with the trans mount and I am ready to go.
Must have been bad balljoints(spicer). After some much harder wheeling in Clayton, the XRF joints stayed put.
Pulled the front cover off to drain and reseal it. All the bolts were loose, so I will just need to remember to tighten them up after each run like I do with the Sterling shaft bolts. I am almost positve that my front gear fluid is gettting water in it from me washing it off after runs through the axle tubes. I am sure it needs new inner axles seals, but that is a huge PITA, so might just keep changing the fluid ever couple of runs.
My next expense is going to have to be some sort of t-case with lower gearing. I really found myselft two-footing it alot at Clayton. Ideally I would keep my drivetrain length the same, thus avoiding new driveshafts and changes to x-members, skids, exhaust, etc. There are plenty of used Atlas' on POR, but they still want close to 2k. Staks are pretty high dollar as well.
The bumper/stigner worked very well in Clayton pushing smaller trees out of the way on the tigher trails. The cheap 1/2" Tuff Stuff syn winch line also worked well aside from the protecting sleeve that would get stuck in the fairlead.
Would like some legit lap and shoulder belts as well as a rear bumper/winch sometime in the next year.
85cj7
12-23-2010, 10:34 PM
link to winch line please.
http://www.truckandwinch.com/tuff-stuff-synthetic-winch-rope-92ft.html
85cj7
12-23-2010, 11:18 PM
I did some googeling after I posted that and thought that might be what you were talking about. I want to switch to synthetic but the prices sucks, it is almost as much as I payed for my superwinch. Please keep us updated on how this rope does, I just spent 30 mins reading reviews about how people are super leery of that rope because of its thickness and because it is just amsteel and not amsteel blue. Apparently, there is a large difference in strength between the two. However, the price of that looks great compared to others I have seen. Again, please keep me, and others, updated on its performance. Thanks.
I did some googeling after I posted that and thought that might be what you were talking about. I want to switch to synthetic but the prices sucks, it is almost as much as I payed for my superwinch. Please keep us updated on how this rope does, I just spent 30 mins reading reviews about how people are super leery of that rope because of its thickness and because it is just amsteel and not amsteel blue. Apparently, there is a large difference in strength between the two. However, the price of that looks great compared to others I have seen. Again, please keep me, and others, updated on its performance. Thanks.
Completely agree. I read all the stuff on Pirate, but no one had actually bought it and used it really. I am very curious to see how it does, but the significant price difference made me buy it. The other options seem ridiculously expensive. I put it through a couple of hard pulls at Clayton and had no issues. The protecting sleeve is a little janky, and seemed to get held up in the fairlead, but that was it.
Picked up a new 2010 last week. 11k of sticker. It has all of the bells and whistles except for 20s, leather, and rear camera. Just a new toolbox and "old man tailgate pole thing" delete so far. It might get a winch and some BFG at some point. I love it so far, but the 5.5' bed will take some getting used to.
BroncoJo
02-07-2011, 11:58 AM
Picked up a new 2010 last week. 11k of sticker. It has all of the bells and whistles except for 20s, leather, and rear camera. Just a new toolbox and "old man tailgate pole thing" delete so far. It might get a winch and some BFG at some point. I love it so far, but the 5.5' bed will take some getting used to.
Nice truck :gigem:
Does yours have Ford's AdvanceTrac control? What is that?
Also Does it have the LCD display on the dash that indicates tilt, lean and wheel turning percentages? When the **** did ford start doing that?
Nice truck :gigem:
Does yours have Ford's AdvanceTrac control? What is that?
Also Does it have the LCD display on the dash that indicates tilt, lean and wheel turning percentages? When the **** did ford start doing that?
It has several different traction control/roll stabilty control systems anda button that turns some of them on/off. I havent relaly figured that al out yet. The rear diff lock works great though. The only LCD is for the audio
BroncoJo
02-09-2011, 12:50 PM
It has several different traction control/roll stabilty control systems anda button that turns some of them on/off. I havent relaly figured that al out yet. The rear diff lock works great though. The only LCD is for the audio
Found this:
The AdvanceTrac with RSC system provides the following stability enhancement features for certain driving situations:
• Traction Control (TCS), which functions to help avoid drive-wheel spin and loss of traction.
• Electronic Stability Control (ESC), which functions to help avoid skids or lateral slides
• Roll Stability Control™ (RSC), which functions to help avoid a vehicle roll-over.
The AdvanceTrac with RSC system automatically enables each time the engine is started. All features of the AdvanceTrac with RSC system (TCS, ESC, and RSC) are active and monitor the vehicle from start-up.
However, the system will only intervene if the driving situation requires it.
The AdvanceTrac with RSC system includes an AdvanceTrac with RSC Off control button on
the center of the instrument panel, and a “sliding car” icon in the instrument cluster. The “sliding car” icon in the instrument cluster will illuminate if a driving situation causes the AdvanceTrac with RSC system to operate. If the “sliding car” icon illuminates steadily, verify that the AdvanceTrac with RSC system is not manually disabled by pressing the AdvanceTrac with RSC Off button located on the center stack of the instrument panel. If the “sliding car” icon remains steadily illuminated, have the system serviced by an authorized dealer immediately.
When AdvanceTrac with RSC performs a normal system self-check, some drivers may notice a slight movement of the brake, and/or a rumble, grunting, or grinding noise after startup and when driving off.
When an event occurs that activates AdvanceTrac with RSC you may experience the following:
• A slight deceleration of the vehicle
• The “sliding car” indicator light will flash.
• A vibration in the pedal when your foot is on the brake pedal
• If the driving condition is severe and your foot is not on the brake, the brake pedal may move as the systems applies higher brake forces. You may also hear a whoosh of air from under the instrument panel during this severe condition.
And apparently even if you turn off AdvanceTrac it will turn back on at speeds > 35 mph, which is ghey.
TdmayfieldIV
02-09-2011, 01:42 PM
The only drivers aid that seems to work is abs. When I was using my moms car in the snow in germany the traction control almost got me stuck several times. It got to the point that I turned the traction control off every time I got in the car. Traction control is for the weak and light footed.
I have a good friend who despises his traction control in the mud at his ranch, but he said that last week in the ice it was pretty helpful.
I have no vehcles with traction control, unless 4x4 counts :)
Holding the button down for 5 secs turns all that **** off.
BroncoJo
02-09-2011, 08:13 PM
Holding the button down for 5 secs turns all that **** off.
But I think that is only at speeds lower than 35 mph
oh yeah, he cuts it off. its in an 07 avalanche 4x2 though, so a little different
Bryan to Arlington, witht he cruise set at 67, Avg mpg was 21.1. **** yeah.
Pulled old Diane home from Arlington last Friday. Probably 9k with trailer. Pulled ridiculously well. 80mph was easy. 13.2 avg mpg
point half ton gasser!
btw, why the 5.5 instead of 6.5?
I've heard chicks dig the 6.5, me personally, i have an 8. :)
TMatheaus
02-23-2011, 01:49 PM
Bryan to Arlington, witht he cruise set at 67, Avg mpg was 21.1. **** yeah.
Pulled old Diane home from Arlington last Friday. Probably 9k with trailer. Pulled ridiculously well. 80mph was easy. 13.2 avg mpg
that is some good mileage there, how many miles you have on it now?
point half ton gasser!
btw, why the 5.5 instead of 6.5?
I've heard chicks dig the 6.5, me personally, i have an 8. :)
Not easy to find
I have 3000 on it now
Got the 203/205 doubler from Tate.
It is set up with 3 shifters.
Let me know if I am right on this:
Shifter 1 controls the range box. Just two positions, engaged or disengaged?(hi/lo)
Shifter two controls the rear output. Has 3 positions, hi, neutral, low?
Shifter 3 controls the front output, has two positions, engaged or disengaged front axle?
It looks like my trans crossmember will not have to change. T-case skid will prob need to be redone, but there is a chance I can just slide it 4" or so down the frame rails and reinstall. This depends on if the 205 hangs much lower thatn the BW. The skid right now is very tight to the BW. Running a couple tubes from the trans xmember back to the skid to create a skid for the 203.
It is very heavy. I see the machined flat spot on the side of the 205 with 3 holes. Can I just make a plate for that, which would bolt on, then run a tube or some sort of 'arm' out the inner frame rail.
With the front engaged, the rear disengaged, and line lock holding the rear brakes, a full detroit, can I do amusing campground circus tricks?:D
Sharpe
02-27-2011, 07:49 PM
Running a brace to the frame off the side of the 205 is deffinately a good idea. I am running one on Pigpen after breaking 3 TH400 housings. It seems to have fixed the issue.
bcolman
02-27-2011, 08:40 PM
the front output shifter should have 3 positions, low, neutral and hi, depending on if the rails were ground or modified then you can put the front in low with the rear in neutral, if this was not done i would recommend doing this as it makes making tight turns easier on the trail
the front output shifter should have 3 positions, low, neutral and hi, depending on if the rails were ground or modified then you can put the front in low with the rear in neutral, if this was not done i would recommend doing this as it makes making tight turns easier on the trail
this confused me.
What I am reading says you grind the REAR rail.
Shaggy
02-27-2011, 10:06 PM
It is done. Shifter 1 range box. Shifter 2 rear output H N L. Shifter 3 H N L. You have to shift 2 and 3 in a certain order to get in L L because the rail limits from front being in H and rear in L and vice versa.
OK, I have been playing with it some more. Problem I am having is that I can not get it in 4hi. The rear output will not go into the HI if the front output is engaged. Consequently, the front output will not enage if the rear is in HI.
IF the rear is in neutral, and the front is engaged, the front stays in LO. Is it suppose to have front HI only?
Shaggy
02-27-2011, 10:07 PM
Oh and range box has H N L too
Oh and range box has H N L too
yes, it does, I was wrong.
KrazyKarl02
02-27-2011, 10:28 PM
OK, I have been playing with it some more. Problem I am having is that I can not get it in 4hi. The rear output will not go into the HI if the front output is engaged. Consequently, the front output will not enage if the rear is in HI.
IF the rear is in neutral, and the front is engaged, the front stays in LO. Is it suppose to have front HI only?
You should be able to do hi in front, rear, or both. Put all 3 shifters in neutral, then try to start putting it in hi.
For install, on the klogger I cut a 2" X 2" hole in the floor then ran a chain with a come-along to the case to pull it up. It made it a lost easier.
on 78ish fords there is a stock rubbber mount for the 205.
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