View Full Version : Swamp Donkey Progess
It is done. Shifter 1 range box. Shifter 2 rear output H N L. Shifter 3 H N L. You have to shift 2 and 3 in a certain order to get in L L because the rail limits from front being in H and rear in L and vice versa.
Thanks Tate. I got it figure out now.
The front output has to be in neutral then shift the rear to HI, then shift the front to HI. Its preventing HI in one axle, LO in the other.
Does it have fluid in it? Did you just silicon it all together? It will prob be easier to take it apart and install a piece at a time.
Going to probably wait till after TCC to start putting it together
KrazyKarl02
02-27-2011, 10:35 PM
Make sure you fill both cases, The 203 and the 205, they are not joined together.
Thinking about it some more, I need a x-member that attachs to the ORD adapter. Looks like it has two threaded holes there already.
Shaggy
02-27-2011, 10:59 PM
Both cases are empty right now. And it will not be easier to install one at a time because you won't have the space to bolt them together. Eric and I put it in using a rachetstrap and a lot of effort. I like Karl's idea though.
KrazyKarl02
02-28-2011, 08:07 AM
When I get home I will post some pics of my cross member.
Meh, it looks better, but there was not really a way to make it looks good. I used some weatherstripping to cover all the sharpe edges. Getting the fuel filler moved was a bitch. Cut out way more floor than I intended. I still need to pull the column, get it fixed, and reintall before TCC
You kinda have to picture a new wrap around bumper that "wraps" up on the side and covers the tub.
sam_hodnett
03-06-2011, 08:31 PM
Sport cut FTW!
Have this week off so decided on some maintenace. Yummy.
davido
04-01-2011, 01:06 PM
I think you just officially got older.
So to save yourself, you need a neon "Now serving #..." sign for the window. :D
DRAGOONRANCH
04-03-2011, 05:02 PM
And that sign should be on #71......
Driving old Diane this week. I love this truck.
I built most of the bed platform for the camper shell this past weekend. Should look pretty good. I want to paint the shell but its looking like 300-$400 to get that done. I want to make this truck suitable for my Colorado trips while still keeping it capable to pull the Bronco to as far as Clayton or K2. I won't use the term 'expedition rig', but you get the idea.
For whatever reason, the transmission hiccup has completely gone away. Not sure why, but it hasn't been driven much in the last few months. Drives great and pulled the slightly loaded trailer with the heavily loaded bed up to DFW the other night just fine.
Before the late summer Colorado/Utah/possible NOCAL trip, it needs a few things
-replace the 130k+ mile Bilsteins
-maybe sliders if I can find something or someone to make it look clean
-rack mounted to the shell?
-maybe a front bumper.
-copy the front diff skid with just heavier gauge material
As for the Donkey, I think the rear sheet metal has to go. My buddy that has done most of the fab work has a new home shop, so I think some reworking of the rear cage and some truggification is not far off. Doubler crossmembers will be in the works as well.
Other than thats, I think the only issue is the damn inner 60 seals leaking, and I am not all that exciting about tearing down the whole thing to replace those.
TdmayfieldIV
04-25-2011, 11:05 PM
http://mad4wd.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69&products_id=162
click images to enlarge
Dana 60 Outer Axle Seal
$65.00
Work with all Ford, GM and Dodge OEM housings manufactured from 3.125" to 3.250" with a .500" wall thickness.
Works with Original and Aftermarket 30 and 35-Spline Shafts.
Designed to prolong life of inner axle seals and keep dirt and water from entering housing.
Completely molded design with Nickel plated bodies.
Installed seal with silicon on outside, pack cavity with grease, install shaft.....done.
Kit does one complete axle (2 seals per kit).
http://mad4wd.com/bmz_cache/3/3a37f3b313e95ba674553007f8d48009.image.185x148.jpg
BroncoJo
04-25-2011, 11:25 PM
Tommy- that seems like a horrible band-aid fix, wouldn't oil leak through to the axle tubes and maybe get stuck there leaving the diff low?
JB- Bring it over to Dowling and I could fix you up some sliders, might get me motivated to make some for my truck
TdmayfieldIV
04-26-2011, 12:00 AM
No, you still have to put new inner seals in but it protects them from dirt and sand.
I am thinking of installing the doubler and temp. supporting it with a ratchet strap while I get the new shafts made. At that point, I need to get it to Greg's house so we can start on the crossmembers. I can winch it on the trailer, but will need it to move on its own to get it from the trailer and into his backyard shop. Will 280+ pounds hanging off the back of my AOD hardly supported be ok for this short distance. I'm thinking it will be fine.
Bought a trans adpater thing for my floor jack, so I thin kI am going to start soon.
KrazyKarl02
05-12-2011, 02:05 PM
Yes, I think that would work for the short distance. I went to Alto with mine and only had the doubler supported (I had no trans cross member)
Got all the old stuff out. Might need some help getting the doubler in if any of you still in college scrubs want to help.
Sparling
05-12-2011, 05:40 PM
Text me, I'm free tomorrow
Doubler install successful. Thanks alot Tommy. It was alot easier than I was expecting. I plan to measure for shafts tomorrow and see waht BVD can do for me.
I have not mounted up the shifters yet, but hopefully they will work.
Think I can get away with just a xmember under the doubler adapter plate? or do I need a support on the 205 too? I have probably asked that question before. I think I do.
I tucks up nicely, higher than I thought it would. I beat up on the underbody, but I do not think I had too.
bcolman
05-12-2011, 06:32 PM
i would run a support off of the 205 also, not only for weight but also for the added torque, i had issues with breaking cross members until i added one and sharpe kept breaking his transmissions
KrazyKarl02
05-13-2011, 06:56 AM
Most people seem to have issues if they do not support the 205. There are 2 holes in the side where you can use a stock Ford part to make it happen.
Sharpe
05-13-2011, 09:16 AM
Deffinately run the brace off the side of the 205.
Where can I find teh stock Ford 205 mount?
ATF in the 205? and 80w90 in the 203?
robertf03
05-13-2011, 01:04 PM
I think they both call for 30 weight, ATF is closer to 20.
robertf03
05-13-2011, 01:06 PM
looks like 205 gets gear oil, 30 weight in the 203
http://www.alltransparts.com/oil-chart/
Sharpe
05-13-2011, 01:47 PM
Everyone runs gear oil in both. The 203 is just gears anyway, **** it. JB, building the foot from scratch will probably be your best bet.
TdmayfieldIV
05-13-2011, 01:49 PM
Travis doesn't have one.
sasquatch
05-13-2011, 01:55 PM
my 203 is puking 80w90. try running 30w.
I am going to make it a solid mount, since both trans and engine mounts are solid.
KrazyKarl02
05-13-2011, 04:33 PM
My NP435, NP203, and NP 205 all run 85W90, it makes it simpler. I have no issues with leaks. ATF started being used to increase fuel mileage, there is some other problem with gear oil foaming on a chain driven t-case.
Also, I did not know your engine was solid mounted, The hole thing being solid mount scares me...
colman
05-13-2011, 04:41 PM
general rule of thumb it seems. if the case is cast use 90 wt if it is alluminum use atf.....
brian also broke a bunch of crossmembers till he tied them all together. def do both
bcolman
05-13-2011, 05:00 PM
i would run a support off of the 205 also, not only for weight but also for the added torque, i had issues with breaking cross members until i added one and sharpe kept breaking his transmissions
general rule of thumb it seems. if the case is cast use 90 wt if it is alluminum use atf.....
brian also broke a bunch of crossmembers till he tied them all together. def do both
is there an echo in this thread :flipoff2:
:D
Got it up on jackstand in the garage playing with the different patterns. I really want to go do a front dig.
I put 80w90 in both b/c its what I had.
I had BVD shorten and lengthen the driveshafts both 3.5". Not the cheapest, but I got them back 4 hrs later.
The shifters were a PITA to get situated, but I got it done, and ordered some nice shift knobs from JBfab.net. The shfiter boots and mount plate should end up looking decent.
Hopefully I can get the crossmember/skid built pretty soon.
Since being under this pile so much over the last couple days, I plan on replace all teh fuel and return lines from rail pump back to the tank as they have been cut and spliced several times. Also, my rear shocks and shock mounts are trashed. Need to get them up above the axle.
The ram mounted to the diff cover has been working fine, but every other run, the cover starts to leak, but simply tightening the loose bolts back up stops the leak comlplety. I will lock tight them next time.
bcolman
05-14-2011, 05:55 AM
looks good, will your new shifter knobs have the shift pattern on them?
eight
05-14-2011, 09:03 AM
You're gonna break some **** with solid mounts and flexy frame.
KrazyKarl02
05-14-2011, 09:40 AM
Mine was a pain in the ass to adjust the shifters too! Wait till you try to build that cross member!
I suppose i could go back to hydraulic motor mounts. But my rubber trans mount would only last 2-3 runs before it tore itself apart, and that was with the 1345.
Hydraulic mounts, both engine and trans, are just soooo ****ty from the parts store. And try and find a trans mount for an 86 with an AOD. Ford, parts stores, JBG, dont have or make one anymore.
My frame does not flex as bad as some fullsize rigs I have seen. Chevys seem to be the worst.
I know there has got to be a reason no one really runs everythihg solid like I am suggesting, I am just not really sure what to do.
These are the mounts I have, so they are not technically solid, as they do have a bushing.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-30505-super-duty-poly-motor-mounts-302-351w.html
Sharpe
05-14-2011, 12:12 PM
if you add the foot off the 205 it will probably help prolong trans mount life.
bcolman
05-14-2011, 03:09 PM
just get some 1.75 .120 wall tube and some poly spring bushings for your new cross member and then all will match and you should be good
note to self for PNs.
http://www.f150online.com/forums/2009-2011-f-150/446611-raptor-e-locker-2hi-mod-e-locking-rear-diff-trucks.html
http://www.bluetorchfab.com/Product/797/BTF-Poly-Bushing-Sleeve-Kit.aspx
Those shifter look slick.
FJAggie07
05-31-2011, 05:59 PM
I agree ^^^^
You got quite the little following on TexAgs to asking about the big bronc. :)
I bought a factory Ford 205 mount off eBay for $32. After buying 4x4 angle, getting the holes just right, buying a rubber mount, this was just easier. It is not meant for 80s Ford frames, but it is pretty close to bolting right up. Just a minor tweak, and start drilling the holes in the frame. Should be done today, and have enough support to at least get it around the block, on the trailer etc.
Front yard front dig successful. Rear line lock will make it better.
http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_106&products_id=732
http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/images/np205_support_kit_tube.jpg
installed...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v146/eeshnab/IMG00097-20100325-1942.jpg
What do you think? The crossmember would be pretty basic, either tube or box and be boltedor welded inside the frame and it would have the poly mount as shown. Then just run a couple tubes up to the trans x-member, plate, done.
??
I was able to make the old skidplate pretty much work. It is about as high and tight as you can get it. Just need to put together the rubber mount, possibly using the TMR stuff above. Only issue then would be the low hanging part of the 203..
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/63004/10002/-1
Is this what people use for a brake line lock?
redcagepatrol
06-27-2011, 08:54 PM
yes. I also use a manual one for the rear. They use them on tow trucks - others use a swageloc valve suitable for the pressure and fluid to lock the pressure in the line. I think Kulo's build has the part number for he swageloc valve. I run electric ones in the front and manual ones in the rear.
redcagepatrol
06-27-2011, 08:56 PM
I use the mico lever lock on the Patrol for the rear:
http://www.mico.com/products/images/37_docfile.pdf
Sharpe
06-27-2011, 09:26 PM
That electric one will work for a short time, thats what I run on the front. It gets hot as **** the longer its on and after 5 years, mine has trouble disengaging sometimes.
doubler cable shifters
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=917766&page=2
Travis helped me out and now the skid is back in place with clearance for the 205. The mount I posted somewhere above is now in use, though it is in a location that is a little differrent. We'll see how it holds up. Ground clearance now is just slighltly lower than before, but I have yet to add any protection to the 203. This will be next on the list, along with a rubber mount for the trans.
stx4wheeler
07-18-2011, 11:23 PM
doubler cable shifters
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=917766&page=2
I am not a fan of my cable shifters, go with manual shifters. The 203 shifts like butter, and the 205 is a pita with my nwf cable shifters. I think Karls manual ones for the 205 is also hard, but not as bad as mine. Mine may have been better if they were new and not used. Another bitch about the cable shifters is routing them.
I have manual shifters, and was posting that for future reference. My 203 shifts easily as well. The 205 can be a little trickly.
KrazyKarl02
07-19-2011, 09:40 AM
I find it helps to have the 203 in neutral and be rolling slightly to shift the 205.
In the 15 or so years of Bronco ownership, I have never really thought much about wheeling something else, until lately. While it doesn't break that often, I never really trust it. Lots of zip ties, sketchty wiring, slow leaks, a body that is trashed etc. I dunno, I just have lost the love for it.
I want something that I can trust. I know it could at least attempt some of the hardest trails out there, but I don't trust it if I am going to trailer it 2k+ miles to Norcal/Moab etc. If it breaks in Mason, well I am only out a weekend, so no big deal.
Part of me still wants a rig that I can beat the piss out of, load on the trailer, and go home. Another part wants something a little more civilized, like an LJ, XJ, Taco etc. These are very cookie cutter, but that also means alot of off the shelf parts, which I kinda like(:rainbow: yeah I know) A mix of the two would be great but I don't really know what that is.
I want somethign street legal, but not necessarily able to drive 80 all the way to Cali.
Rigs I have considered
XJs - 97ish and up seem to be a little nicer inside, motor is cheap and easy, they can be found dirt cheap. Drawbacks would be a D30/35.
LJs - Rare, overpriced. Rubicon would be great, but even more overpriced.
Late 90s Taco - 3.4, ext cab, would need a solid axle, but seems pretty easy, still long and alot of sheet metal to damage.
04 F150 - superduty axles and 40s?:D Probably not.
2nd gen 4runner - 86-89. Would also need a front axle. Most are pretty beat at this point
I dunno maybe this is just a phase. I would reallly like to find another Bronco and make a cruiser out of it. Keep the TTB, 4", 35s.
BroncoJo
08-13-2011, 05:36 PM
I still say the 04 f150 with 40's :gigem:
stx4wheeler
08-13-2011, 07:19 PM
John if you go the bronco route I think my old 95 white bronco will be for sale soonish.
Or take you bronco to a good shop, and have a professional fix wiring, leaks and **** that bother you. This is what I think I would do if I were you.
FJAggie07
08-13-2011, 08:09 PM
If you want cookie cutter and off the shelf the Tacoma isn't even an option. There are no full solid axle kits, no decent axles that plug and play, compared to the other options you mentioned. I have given up the dream of a street legal wheeling machine. A) you either keep it small and simple so there is no breakage but you will always desire to do harder trails or B) you build something street legal that is completely bad ass and you drop a small fortune on it. It is a lose lose. I hate our hobby sometimes.
TdmayfieldIV
08-13-2011, 08:21 PM
05+ tons under Diane would be sick. Big brakes, superior suspension setup and they're half the price of the old ****.
I say Build Diane
interior cage
Front and rear bumpers
Atlas 4 speed
05+ superduty tons
Hydro assist, high steer
Arb's front and rear
gears
Sparling
08-13-2011, 09:12 PM
I vote fix what's wrong with the bronco or put all of your stuff in an explorer with either airshocks or coilovers with 4 link rear and 3 link front.
TdmayfieldIV
08-13-2011, 09:18 PM
http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/xx6/TdmayfieldIV/9149-12999-194424.jpg
I have seen the white one before. Its stupid tall.
This is an 11, but is pretty close to what I have in my head...
http://image.4wheeloffroad.com/f/33733489+w650+st0+st0/131_1106_8290+ultimate_adventure_2011+getting_ther e.jpg
BroncoJo
08-13-2011, 09:55 PM
Do it
I vote fix what's wrong with the bronco or put all of your stuff in an explorer with either airshocks or coilovers with 4 link rear and 3 link front.
What is it with TAMOR and all the Explorer love? Karl, Tate, and now you? You know why you do not see any of them on the trail? B/c they are lame.:flipoff2: You could have said Ranger, and I would have been fine with it.:D
Honestly, I want to do less building, and more wheeling. Building the F150 is really just a daydream, but the picture I have of it in my head, it would be pretty sick. Very similiar to the UA Ecoboost, but with a solid front. Right now, I just need to get it ready for a a trip to Colo/Utah/Wyoming in late September. Camper shell will get dropped off for paint in the next couple weeks.
I am always fixing little things on the Bronco. Always ****ing with it. Everything on it, while still functioning just fine, is tweaked from hard wheeling. The rear sheet metal looks like **** since I cut it. Sharp, jagged edges...looks like it was cut with a sawzall.....because it was.:D No good way to make a rear bumper work now. I haven't touched the suspension since I put it together 03ish. All the spring bushings are trashed, the front leafs are bent, the rear shocks are trashed from rocks. It still needs a trans crossmember/skid for the 203 that I am just even motivated enough to start on, or have Travis start on it:D
I think I would like it better with a truck cab and a flatbed.
I do love wheeling it. I like having something that is different at the campground. It has just become a rig that only will work for me for me at K2/Alto/Clayton. Hard to explain I guess.
I want to wheel Rubicon, Moab, Hammers etc....just want something a little more modern, that I can trust.
I am not exactly against buying a rig already built, but I think once I bought it, I would feel really strange about wheeling someone else's old project.
BroncoJo
08-13-2011, 10:15 PM
If your still confident in the f150 engine and trans do the superduty axle swap. End prduct can easily be a very highway friendly drive as hard as you want rig.
sexy
http://randyellisdesign.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/1/files/ultimate-adventure/ua-painted-sized.jpg
eight
08-13-2011, 11:50 PM
They make these things called YJs. One ton axles bolt in, atlas or stack bolts in, it comes with a 190hp fuel injected motor, it does not have lots of body or glass to worry about, if you get tired of building anything for it you can just buy it. There is a reason so many people wheel these. Look at how simple Busa's jeep is.
My jeep is sort of what you're looking for plus 5 years. All solid parts, you just have to work on stuff sometimes. It could be street legal again in a few days, or ready to load up for anywhere tomorrow.
Sparling
08-14-2011, 12:06 AM
What is it with TAMOR and all the Explorer love? Karl, Tate, and now you? You know why you do not see any of them on the trail? B/c they are lame.:flipoff2: You could have said Ranger, and I would have been fine with it.:D
I was going to say a ranger but I figured you'd want more seating. I think a ranger with all of your running gear with fuel injection would be tits. That said it would be a lot of work if you were putting your bronco motor and trans in a ranger. V6 ranger on tons with a doubler and 40's would be sweet.
KrazyKarl02
08-14-2011, 10:08 AM
I would reallly like to find another Bronco and make a cruiser out of it. Keep the TTB, 4", 35s.
Best axle ever!
robertf03
08-14-2011, 11:27 AM
93-95 range rover, lockers, sliders, big cooler, done
I took Diane to Pickups Plus last week. I have been having a "transmission issue" for about a year. Basically a hard stutter seamingly when going into OD. Trans shop who build it said it was for sure a miss but I did not believe them. No codes or anything. Anyhow, 2 ignition coils and 8 plugs and the "transmission" issue is gone. She screams now!
Also had them check out a very strange ticking from the front, pass. side of the motor. They said they fixed it with an idler pulley, but it is still doing it.
It has to get warm before it will do it, but that usually only takes a couple minutes.
This sounds weird, but it goes like this:
tick tick tick tick
tick tick tick tick
tick tick tick tick
tick tick tick
tick tick tick tick
tick tick tick tick
tick tick tick tick
tick tick tick
3 sets of 4 ticks, then a set of 3 ticks. It in no way varies from this sequence. I removed the belt and ran it and the noise still persists. Maybe a valve, or maybe something with the timing chain/tensioner. It does not affect performance in any way. I just want to know what it is.
Got the camper painted and re-installed today. Would a roof rack on the camper be :rainbow:? I want to mount 2 badass lights somehow. I could make a little bracket off the front Warn winch kit license plate mount thing, or mount 2 lights to a roof rack on the shell.
BroncoJo
09-03-2011, 09:10 PM
Rod bearing
sounds more on top of the motor.
Jackasic
09-03-2011, 10:50 PM
does it go away when your rev the motor? might be a rod bearing going out.
BroncoJo
09-03-2011, 10:59 PM
Boss at the air port had the same problem and thought it was everything else including pulleys and lifters and ended up being the back rod bearings
Just got back from my Colorado/Wyoming trip. Put just over 4400 miles on her in 13 days without a hiccup.
I will have to post some pics once my buddy gets them up.
Yellowstone kinda sucked. Very structured.
Grand Teton was cool
Amazed at the number of slide in campers in truck beds up there. It was seriously the prefered camping method. Some of those slide ins are enormous and the majority of them were on SRW 3/4tons. Swaying and bouncing pretty good. Crazy. I want a lighter/smaller FWC for Diane.
Saw moose, bison, pronghorn antelope, mule deer, coyote, fox, and a wolf. No bears, but we were honestly pretty scared. My 3 buddies are into guns like you fags, and had all sorts of fire power, but were saying that it probably would be enough. Bunch of stories out lately about bears up there.
Spend a couple days around Buena Vista area. Gorgeous.
Weather could not have been better.
TdmayfieldIV
10-02-2011, 09:32 PM
Is there still an orange 79 f-250 with a flat bed for sale on the side of the road coming into buena vista?
Meh, I guess its better than before. I am still thinking about tearing it down and building something else, but certainly not before Clayton-palooza. Clayton plans include some more cleanup on the rear fender hacking, new plugs and an oil change on the motor, fix the winch line, and figure out what I bent in the steering on the drive back to camp. If the plugs do not fix the motor, then it will just smoke a little on her last voyage.
TdmayfieldIV
10-27-2011, 08:27 PM
Why?
KrazyKarl02
10-27-2011, 09:44 PM
Why? Much like JB I often look at my pile of parts. Is it wicked fun at Alto? Hell Yes, but for serious rock crawling like Katemcy, Clayton, etc... it will never compete with a lighter truck or buggy. Also full sizes will always require more maintenance than a smaller vehicle due to weight. Look at Cook's rig, look at all the odd problems he has had because of the weight associated with a full size. Seriously, sometimes I want to stab BDR in his cherokee, it does pretty much everythin JB and I's rigs do, but it has a full cab and A/C... I love JB's rig and I love the Klogger because of the image, a Bronco, a Crew Cab, etc... but at the end of the day it is not the best base to start with.
I'll give you your 78/79 is holding up well, but at the end of the day, some d-bag with dana 44's and a toyota is going to crawl past you.
TdmayfieldIV
10-27-2011, 10:11 PM
no, I know that. Why take the rear off? Now it looks like clark's, and we all know what happened to it.
I might hold off on building a cage and wait till jb decides to scrap that and I'll buy it.
The body was trashed. The fenders flopped around. It is what I was stuck on when the balljoints let loose. It looked like **** before if you really looked at it. Now its several hundred pounds lighter and I have better visibility. It looks just as ****ty as it did before, maybe a little better once I finish.
Hot Pocket
10-28-2011, 03:58 PM
JB you've had the bronco forever. I recall you saying something about it being your first vehicle.
Don't kill this thing, it's got too much history, and it can wheel better than most of the fullsize rigs ive seen.
colman
10-28-2011, 04:25 PM
if he makes a buggy and still use the parts its not dead.... its just reborn
JB you've had the bronco forever. I recall you saying something about it being your first vehicle.
Don't kill this thing, it's got too much history, and it can wheel better than most of the fullsize rigs ive seen.
Yeah, I have had her almost 15 years now. Been a good rig.
I got the other side cut off today. ALso removed the rear bumper/anchor and bought some 5x2 box to cap of the rear frame. It will have a captured d-ring on it. Need to buy Travis' welder.
eight
10-28-2011, 09:32 PM
All you kids will eventually figure out that fullsizes suck for serious offroad rigs. Sure JB's bronco has always done well, but the parts in it would work so much better in a smaller rig. I think his bronco looked as good as in the above picture when I first saw it, I'd like to have something like that to cruise around in, take it fishing, shoot at things out of it, but that's about as good as they get.
mudtoy67
10-28-2011, 09:34 PM
Seriously, sometimes I want to stab BDR in his cherokee, it does pretty much everythin JB and I's rigs do, but it has a full cab and A/C...
Remind me not to taunt you so much next time... :D
The plugs were black and wet with fuel. The smoking from under the hood was from some vaccuum lines that fell down and burned on the manifold. Fixed that and new plugs and it doesn't smoke and seems to be running as normal.
The more I look at it now without the rear body, the more I kinda like it. Visibility is great now to each rear wheel. Got a few other little things to do, but she is ready to wheel again.
AggieTJ2007
10-29-2011, 07:23 PM
sounds like it was running rich because of the burnt vacuum line. Glad to hear that there is no serious damage.
BroncoJo
11-10-2011, 06:24 PM
I'm still not quite sure why you wanted the stack, but it is done...
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg115/BroncoJo/IMAG0346.jpg
sam_hodnett
11-10-2011, 06:28 PM
:laughing: he is going to murder you
Let my little brother house/dog sit for me....He wasnt suppose to drive Diane while there..... Diane now needs a front bumper....Drunk guy on 21 apparently swerved over into his lane, he rear ended him, sending it flipping several times......gawdamnit....Glad he is ok, butI might beat his ass when I get home in 4 hours.
BroncoJo
11-11-2011, 11:31 AM
SAS time?
MR.ZAP
11-11-2011, 11:47 AM
Shiiiiiiiit that blows.
Sharpe
11-11-2011, 12:17 PM
Dianna + bronco axles = less ****ty Klogger.
BroncoJo
11-11-2011, 12:18 PM
Dianna + bronco axles = less ****ty Klogger.
And the klogger dominates!
sam_hodnett
11-11-2011, 12:33 PM
****, that sucks. Oh well, at least it was just a front bumper
I think the other truck flipped?
He hit a four door sedan, that then rolled 4 times. Trooper says it was that guys fault, but I don't get the police report till Monday. He says he was in the right lane of 21 going 60, about to pass a guy in the left lane going 20-30ish, then that guy veared into the right lane, F150 ramed, guy then gassed it or something and flipped into the median. This was around midnight last night. Dunno if he was drunk or fell aslepp. It was an older guy. Somewhere between the airport and Wixon Valley.
F150 doesnt look too bad, but needs bumper, upper valence, lower valence, fog light, tow hook. The frame is poking through the bumper and looks ****ed. He is in a neck brace, so I couldn't punch him in the throat. The kid is a ****ing magnet for **** happening to him
KrazyKarl02
11-11-2011, 06:24 PM
Less ****ty klogger? Unpossible
BroncoJo
11-13-2011, 02:15 PM
Kinda sticks out pretty far? what's next big wheels and another stack? :flipoff2:
stx4wheeler
11-13-2011, 02:51 PM
Nice bumper, but the cheesy Tow hooks worry me some.
Nice bumper, but the cheesy Tow hooks worry me some.
I noticed that too. Looks like the factory tow hooks can still be used though. Stupid expensive though.
Part of the cage that ties into the sliders cracked wide open. The weld did not fail, the metal jsut ripped around it. Need to fix that and need to tack the driveshaft ujoint caps in that teh expert welder Sam completly ****ed up at Shiloh and she is good to go for Clayton 2011:D
So the police report was a joke full of typos and inconsistencies., but it blamed my brother for teh accident and failure to control speed. Progressive,(mine and my brothers insurance) determine fault to be on the other driver, going against what the report said. A week ago, I finally called the other insurance company and asked them what was going on, as we had not heard from anyone. They had no idea the car had been wrecked, so I started a claim then. Sent them pictures, and my highest estimate. They called me this morning and said the would be sending me a check:confused2 Uhh, ok, sounds good to me.
The car was a corporate rental, guess it was too much of a hassle....I win? I dunno, I am still wary, but we will see.
I got it torn down today. It needs 1 bracket on that side that I couldnt see with it all still on the truck.
Pic below is a Buckstop. Still pretty expensive, then would have to pay for shipping.
Or just the standard ranch hand. I think these are 875 installed, but I would have to figure out if I could make the winch work.
Cheapest way out of this to to buy the replacement parts via Advance and put it back together and pocket the rest of the money. Not sure yet.
Sparling, I don't think I need what Keystone is calling the bumper cover(the painted piece below the headlights. Just the bumper, lower valence, fog light, both drivers side bumper brackets, and one plastic bracket that supports the 'bumper cover'
sam_hodnett
12-13-2011, 04:57 PM
no ranch hand...
X2
I like that buckstop
eight
12-13-2011, 10:49 PM
Don't get a ranch hand, they kind of suck. Don't fit lines of truck so well, powdercoat will rust after a couple years, not real clean workmanship. Overall just a little ****ty.
These are good stuff, and the same price.
http://www.frontier-gear.com/html/XFrontBumperReplacements.html
bcolman
12-13-2011, 11:14 PM
i have a frontier front and rear and they have been good, not as heavy duty as a ranchhand but still plenty strong
jasonjuch
12-14-2011, 12:14 AM
no ranch hand...
Random tangent: I'm not sure if the owner himself was an aggie but his sons are aggie's, one of them joined the corps and is a junior now.. that said, when I asked them to be sponsors of TCC last year they said no immediately.
redcagepatrol
12-14-2011, 09:04 AM
Greg from Fab-Fours will be in Clayton - have him bring one with him, no shipping - special TAMOR price. They have the black steel versions now too which are light years better than the Ranch Hand ones and cheaper.
redcagepatrol
12-14-2011, 09:08 AM
pre-runnner style:
http://www.fabfours.com/Products/Ford/F150FrontBumpers/0912F150WinchBumperwPreRunnerGuard
full guard style:
http://www.fabfours.com/Products/Ford/F150FrontBumpers/0912F150WinchBumperwFullGrillGuard
black steel version:
http://www.fabfours.com/BLACKSTEEL/Ford/0912FordF150BlackSteelBumper
I think he is looking for Diane, which is an 04. otherwise, that would be a sweet deal.
TMatheaus
12-26-2011, 05:05 PM
JB, Where did you get your 4wheeler axle?
I was looking on ebay and found a guy who rebuilds them. His name was David Ham and he was in Louisiana. I sent him my junk one and he sent me back a rebuilt one. But I cant find him anymore on eBay.
Would you be interested in buying my hidden winch kit for 04-05 F150s. Its a Warn xd9000 with rope. It won't work on a Buckstop bumper, if that is the route I go.
I think he is looking for Diane, which is an 04. otherwise, that would be a sweet deal.
Yep, Fab Fours doesn't make anything for 04-08 F150s. Wish they did.
New project. Picked up off CL for an OK deal.
old 5x8 wood deck trailer
Tires moved a good 1/4" in and out on both sides. I torn it all down and found the spindles were welded back on at some point. Decided to get a TSC axle. This turned out to be a PITA as the new axle had the perches already welded on. Ended up being 1.25" too wide. Just enough to piss you off. I cut them off and put it all back together. Replaced teh shackles, bushings, u-bolts too. Plan is to find some decent tires tomorrow and possible rewire it.
Noticed that all three wheels were different. Ended up getting matchings wheels and some old BFGs mounted up at some ghetto tire shop on 21. Does anyone know what these wheels would be off of? They are 15", 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern. It looks like some sort of hubcap can go over and cover the hubs and lugs. Travis, doesnt yours have a chrome cover?
Also cleaned up the wiring, got it registered, fixed the spare tire mount and cleaned it up a bit.
Going to wait to get some scrap 2x12s from work and I will replace the floor.
Might weld some d rings on the side because there are no good tie down spots.
MR.ZAP
12-30-2011, 06:27 PM
New kicks on the DD
Those bastards are expensive, shoulda gone with Falkens!
I wanted good tires
215 a tire. Not too bad for 18s
KrazyKarl02
12-30-2011, 09:31 PM
Is it GM Car pattern? Like Caprice's, Regal's, etc...
It is a pretty standard pattern. I bought the axle at TSC. Measuring from center of one hole to between the two opposite holes is 4.5" I am thinking there is some sort of "baby-moon' cover that would work.
I bought/returned two rims at Gordons that I thought were right, but were 5 on 4.75? Thought that was strange.
eight
12-30-2011, 11:49 PM
Do not put hub caps on. Good to feel how hot the hubs are when you stop. Also when a bearing goes out the grease cap will fall off first, easier to notice when there's no cap.
Sharpe
12-31-2011, 04:05 PM
S10s had 5 on 4.75
85cj7
01-02-2012, 07:14 PM
Looks like you already found one for you but here's another for a good price.
http://lsjc.org/board/showthread.php?t=57888
It holds a mule but not the Ranger. It will after I cut the board slots off and build a little ramp
MR.ZAP
02-14-2012, 05:30 PM
Not to **** in your cheerios, but just saw this over the weekend...
http://www.quadratec.com/products/product_search.php?pn=92122.2000,92122.2001&cn=Quadratec+Q-Series+Self+Recovery+Winches&c=142
MR.ZAP
02-14-2012, 06:22 PM
Dude, time will tell as to the reliability, but it has the warn beat on all fronts besides cable diameter.
TdmayfieldIV
02-14-2012, 06:24 PM
Warn is the only winch worth a ****. I don't get why you're all over the cheap chinese winches. They're all the same crap
Yeah. Not sure what you are trying to compare. My Cheerios are fine
MR.ZAP
02-14-2012, 06:47 PM
Go to the product details and read what the chart says. Tommy, I have talked to guys at multiple shops who say that they have more Warns come back for warranty work than anything.
bcolman
02-14-2012, 07:00 PM
Go to the product details and read what the chart says. Tommy, I have talked to guys at multiple shops who say that they have more Warns come back for warranty work than anything.
I would bet that it's because more warns are sold, I would be more interested in the percent warrentied of each brand as that would be more representative of quality
MR.ZAP
02-14-2012, 07:07 PM
I would bet that it's because more warns are sold, I would be more interested in the percent warrentied of each brand as that would be more representative of quality
True, I'm sure that there are other factors at work. But still... haha
I bought on personal experience. Not on what parts sales guys tell me
But seriously. There are way more Warns out there then all of the cheapo winches combined so your argument there is dumb.
This 10k was half the standard Warn10.5k. It going on the F150 so use should be limited. I will feel way better with a Warn then I would with a harbor freight, Chicago, ****built, or quadratec. I'll report back once i get it in use
sasquatch
02-15-2012, 09:32 PM
notice anything cheap about it?
Not really. It's black instead of the typical Warn gray. It looks just like my 9.5xp really. I know the motor is different and it's going to be slower, but so far so good. Now if the damn bumper would just get here
MR.ZAP
02-16-2012, 12:03 AM
If it pulls, it pulls! As long as it works well and keeps working (which I'm sure it will). I guess I should just get into super-couponing... :D
Got the old boards off it today. Still dreading trying to get all the old paint off.
colman
03-05-2012, 08:56 AM
have it sand blasted...
tommy53002
03-05-2012, 09:00 AM
Have you ever tried that air craft stripper stuff? I've never tried it, but others have said its as simple as spray on wipe off. Just don't get it on your skin or in your eyes. May be worth a shot.
mudtoy67
03-05-2012, 09:10 AM
Ya, aircraft stripper is pretty awesome for paint, spray/wipe on and within seconds the paint starts bubbling up. It's pretty nasty stuff though, use a lot of protection. It doesn't remove rust though, so he'd still end up taking a wire wheel to it.
eight
03-05-2012, 09:48 AM
Any paint that's on good enough for a pressure washer to not remove is on good enough to paint over. Just sand it a little.
Took forever to install. Really happy with the way it looks
BroncoJo
03-10-2012, 08:01 PM
did you only order one hella?
Dropped and broke the other. Started drinking at that point. Buying one from tommy
TdmayfieldIV
03-10-2012, 08:46 PM
That looks good
ANy intererst in Bronco parts? Doubler, front 60, motor etc? Contemplating parting it out and building a 85-89 4runner.
Don' give me ****, its just time for something new :)
FJAggie07
06-06-2012, 10:08 AM
ANy intererst in Bronco parts? Doubler, front 60, motor etc? Contemplating parting it out and building a 85-89 4runner.
Don' give me ****, its just time for something new :)
I thought you were thinking the Buggy route?
BroncoJo
06-06-2012, 10:12 AM
Not going with one-tons?
How much for the winch?
BroncoJo
06-06-2012, 10:13 AM
How much for everything? Or everything minus the axles?
Ford 60 is drivers drop, Yota is Pass. Might still make it work as I have too much in that axle.
Yeah, if I do it, it will be on tons.
Never was going buggy. Want a full-bodied rig on 1 tons.
$1000 for the doubler
Keeping the 10.25 and winch
Front 60 would be a steal at $1500, but not expecting to get that here.
Not sure on the motor as it has some super jackoff Ford heads on it that I am unsure of their worth
Might sell the seats for $150/pair
No clue on the tube work etc.
FJAggie07
06-06-2012, 11:22 AM
Ford 60 is drivers drop, Yota is Pass. Might still make it work as I have too much in that axle.
Yeah, if I do it, it will be on tons.
Never was going buggy. Want a full-bodied rig on 1 tons.
Well if you want an 86-89 Runner you will be stuck with the 3.0 which is a less then steller power plant. I like the coolness of the removable top but if you aren't set on that, but you want to keep your front axle, pick up a 95.5-97 Tacoma. They are driver side drop and will have the 2.7 or 3.4 in them which are much better engines. Plus the Tacoma Transfer case while chain driven is extremely strong. You could also go with a late 90's 4Runner (also drivers drop) which would be very cool for long over the road trips.
Or you keep your axles and get cheap 86-89 runner, you say screw the Yota Doublers which can add up real quick and you get an Inchworm Lefty, or Atlas 2 speed.
TdmayfieldIV
06-06-2012, 11:59 AM
I want the seats
Well if you want an 86-89 Runner you will be stuck with the 3.0 which is a less then steller power plant. I like the coolness of the removable top but if you aren't set on that, but you want to keep your front axle, pick up a 95.5-97 Tacoma. They are driver side drop and will have the 2.7 or 3.4 in them which are much better engines. Plus the Tacoma Transfer case while chain driven is extremely strong. You could also go with a late 90's 4Runner (also drivers drop) which would be very cool for long over the road trips.
Or you keep your axles and get cheap 86-89 runner, you say screw the Yota Doublers which can add up real quick and you get an Inchworm Lefty, or Atlas 2 speed.
None came with the 22re?
I have a 95 4runner now that I am trying to sell. Needs a fuel pump so i have not been able to drive it yet. Maybe I keep that and just deal with the 3.0
FJAggie07
06-07-2012, 07:53 AM
I wrote that wrong I think you can get the 22re in the runner in 86-89 but the 3.0 was more common. The runner went only 3.0 from 90-95. Personally the 90-95 is my favorite body style and if you already had one that has has the head gaskets done under the recall, then I would rock the **** out of it. The 3.0 isn't horrible as long as it has been mantained. I had a 94 truck with one and it was just slow.
Her time has come. I don't have any hesitation about it anymore.
I think I am keeping and rebuilding the axles for the next rig.
Seats are spoken for.
Doubler - $1000. Works great, but leaks. I would replace various seals. Has triple sticks and nice JB Fab shifter knobs. ORD plate
302/AOD - Make and offer. Has some good parts in it, but should probably be pulled apart and checked out.
39.5x13.5x16.5 Iroks on recentered H1s. + (1) 39.5x14x16.5 TSL - $800 - 2 pretty big gashes in one tire, but it holds air. Could be repaired. Plenty of rock rash. Wheels should be pulled apart, re-o-ringed, painted. Would probably run you 2500-3k for new tires and recenterd wheels. These tires take this heavy ass rig where it should not be in Clayton. Karl really likes TSLs, says they are Gods tires. I disagree. I like Iroks.
Cage? Would be a bitch to pull out, might just cut it up.
Everything else is jsut plain worn out, so it will go to scrap.
:beer:
sam_hodnett
10-29-2012, 10:20 AM
tis a sad sad day
colman
10-29-2012, 01:54 PM
the end of the era, one of the longest running rigs in the club. how long have you had it?
85cj7
10-29-2012, 02:15 PM
Yeah, I have had her almost 15 years now. Been a good rig.
the end of the era, one of the longest running rigs in the club. how long have you had it?
. . .
colman
10-29-2012, 03:14 PM
look, i don't have time to go thru every post he made i go to the most current one and go from there. i'm to busy looking for **** on craigslist i don't need. so thanks for finding that for me.
Yeah, got it when I was 15. Just time to move on to something a little smaller, streetable, legal etc
Aww hell, Shiloh ready!
19375
19376
sam_hodnett
01-17-2013, 06:11 PM
Aw ****!
davido
01-17-2013, 10:07 PM
The beginning of the end.
MR.ZAP
01-17-2013, 10:37 PM
Chrome wheels?! What is this world coming to?!?!?!
35s. Bad pic. I have had the same wheels for 6 years
MR.ZAP
01-17-2013, 11:39 PM
Now that you mention it, I know this. Haha I hope those bad boys wear well!
Sparling
01-18-2013, 02:31 AM
What all did you have to do to fix your 5.4 when you had the timing issue? I ask because I know someone with the same issue and he want's to know what it would take to fix it before he dumps it.
No clue. I remember Jeremey replaced the timing chains and tensioner, but it didn'tfix the noise. There was never a drivability or performance problem, just a weird ticking. Still does it. Might have ended up doing something VCT related? Chet might remember. I'll check my records when I get home
I checked. Cardoc did the timing chain, but I remember it not fixing the issue. Looks like a took it to Varsity two months later and they replaced the throttle body. Can't remember if the problem was related or not. Other than that and a a few bad coils, the motor has been fine. This was around 130k. Has 230k now. Runs fine, but has a very light ticking.
19407
Only one more picture to go...
FJAggie07
02-14-2013, 08:57 PM
:(
KrazyKarl02
02-14-2013, 10:26 PM
The front of that frame looks cherry
Only driven to the grocery store on weekends by grandma
TdmayfieldIV
02-15-2013, 03:19 AM
Engine/trans?
Hot Pocket
02-15-2013, 06:22 AM
How sad, I really liked this truck. Had a lot of character.
Engine/trans?
Only things left of any value on it. Don't really want to mess with pulling it out
BroncoJo
02-15-2013, 09:58 AM
How much for engine and transmission and body
I would have to get $500 for the motor and trans to make it worth my effort to pull it all out. The scrapyard is getting the body/frame/cage.
KrazyKarl02
02-15-2013, 11:24 AM
You going to cut the frame up, or just haul it as one... I could be interested in some frame pieces, or if you want to batch dispose of it, perhaps we could work something out....
Sparling
02-15-2013, 12:28 PM
When are you taking it?
I have to get my trailer back together. Probably next weekend or the one after that
Hellbent
02-15-2013, 01:29 PM
I have to get my trailer back together. Probably next weekend or the one after that
you part it out too?
No. Added some channel, new treated wood, rewiring etc..
Some guy on FSB dug up the old build info....
86ish 302 block
69 351W heads
ARP hardware
Cloyes chain
Ford racing roller conversion kit
Crane PowerMax cam
big valves and good springs (PO of the heads told me but I forgot)
Comp pushrods
Professional Producs performance balancer
new oil pan
"302" valve covers from JBG
I am still not sure on "69 351 heads.
It is alot dirtier now. Ran fine though.
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=12390&d=1201315051
BroncoJo
02-15-2013, 06:08 PM
How much if I come get the engine , teams, and body together
BroncoJo
02-15-2013, 10:34 PM
Intentions?
More than likely storage, but maybe bring it back to life.
TdmayfieldIV
02-16-2013, 12:00 AM
more than likely storage, but maybe bring it back to life.
ha!
I'm going to take the motor out. No one but the scrap yard gets the remains.
BroncoJo
02-17-2013, 10:07 PM
Which scrap yard?
I am not going to pull the motor, but I pulled the heads. They are 351 C90E heads. Can anyone place a value on these? No idea what they are worth
Sparling
02-25-2013, 11:21 PM
Good 1970 460 heads go for around 200 for a good used set. Not sure on those but I would assume something close from someone who knows what they are.
jasonjuch
02-27-2013, 02:30 PM
did you watch them crunch it?
MR.ZAP
02-27-2013, 02:46 PM
Sad day. Title change to Swamp Donkey Regress!
Might be the coolest thing my dad has ever said and he did it through my mom's facebook account.
Dad here- let me see if I got this right..I paid about $7500. for purchase another $3500. for new engine and am sure thousands for various repairs.. from what i can tell about $50000 invested. for a return of not enough money to pay my whiskey bill... but it has been the joy of your life for 14 years and am thrilled you had as much fun with the Bronco as you had..lousy investment but a lifetime of memories
:D:beer:
He is getting old. He bought it for me for 5k and put a 3k engine in it when I sunk it at Spring Creek. After HS, he quit spending money on it, but I have always reminded him of how much I put in it. I think I once told him I had close to 5k in the front axle and he almost had almost had a stroke.
FJAggie07
02-28-2013, 09:51 AM
Good man!
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