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JB
04-14-2003, 03:09 PM
Here's my thread for pics of slow progress....

here it is as of now....it had not run until last month when I thought I had everything working well. The alternator wiring caught fire after wheeling and it has not run since b/c I have been to lazy to wokr on it. This weekend I replaced the alternator and all associated wiring, bolted up a set of dynomax longtubes, installed new plugs, wires, and rotor. I am getting a loud noise when i try to crank it coming from the solenoid. I replaced the solenoid, and the same thing is happening. ANy ideas?

JB
04-14-2003, 03:12 PM
cut the lower parts of the front fender...

Doug Krebs
04-14-2003, 03:13 PM
Does it sound pissed off??? Like a very loud clicking???? If so, your battery is almost dead, or your not getting a good connection to the starter. Maybe corrosion.

JB
04-14-2003, 03:13 PM
it hasn't moved in a while either and it had to sit outside for a couple days, thus getting alot of tree crap, and bird **** inside...

JB
04-14-2003, 03:16 PM
Yeah, it sounds bad. There is a very good possibility that there is a bad connection with the starter b/c it has been a bitch to get that screw tight with the headers in the way. But would a bad connection at the starter still cause the noise up at the solenoid? The battery has enough juice for all other accesories, so I do not think it is that, but I will try to jump it. Thanks Doug

Doug Krebs
04-14-2003, 03:20 PM
I meant to the solonoid, not the starter. So that sounds like the problem, either bad connection or battery.

BigRedFord04
04-14-2003, 03:23 PM
bad ground

Doug Krebs
04-14-2003, 03:30 PM
could be that too, failed to mention that. Maybe you could have taken the ground off the back of the block when you put the headers on??????

BMFScout
04-14-2003, 04:56 PM
I have a f*rd solenoid on my truck, when the battery gets low it makes that pissed off sound. Try jumping it, just b/c it has enough juice to run other ****, doesn't mean it has enough to start it...

Krawler68
04-14-2003, 05:02 PM
Originally posted by BMFScout
I have a f*rd solenoid on my truck,

Wow...first time I ever met you i distinctly remember you saying... "Hell will freeze over before I use any Ford parts on my Scout"... did that happen today?

Doug

Doug Krebs
04-14-2003, 05:52 PM
I also have a ford solonoid

BigRedFord04
04-14-2003, 05:54 PM
i've got 3 on my truck and two in the toolbox :rolleyes: :flipoff2:

Doug Krebs
04-14-2003, 06:05 PM
you wanna fight? i've got five (4 on the winch) on my truck, and 2 in my tool box

robertf03
04-14-2003, 06:13 PM
Originally posted by Krawler68


Wow...first time I ever met you i distinctly remember you saying... "Hell will freeze over before I use any Ford parts on my Scout"... did that happen today?

Doug

its actually a Jeep solenoid :flipoff2:

BMFScout
04-14-2003, 07:31 PM
actually it is a f*rd "style" solenoid I got it from jeg's, to get technical my air compressor for the a/c also said f*rd on it, but i scratched it off.

JB
04-23-2003, 08:48 PM
The battery ended up being bad, so it was replaced under warranty. I replaced both cables for good measure and it fired up. It sounds pretty mean with just the headers.:D Now I jsut need a trailer for a couple hours to get it to the exhaust shop. ANyone have a trailer I could borrow for a couple hours next week? And any suggestions on good exhaust shops around here?

JB
04-23-2003, 09:05 PM
new battery with new cables. I got the wrong negative cable, and O'Reilly's now closes at 8p, so have to do that tomorrow.

JB
04-23-2003, 09:08 PM
new to me Dynomax longtube headers. The passenger side is really close to the starter, so I am not sure how that will work out. The drivers side is also really close the driveshaft, like only 1/4 of an inch.

Shaggy
04-23-2003, 11:46 PM
Originally posted by JBrown89
new to me Dynomax longtube headers. The passenger side is really close to the starter, so I am not sure how that will work out. The drivers side is also really close the driveshaft, like only 1/4 of an inch.

ya mine is like that too... you have to take the header off to put in a new starter, i would suggest not welding the exaust directly to the header like i did and use those bolt on flanges

JB
04-24-2003, 12:47 AM
yeah, reinstalling the starter was a pain in the ass. I am planning on bolting it togethre via the flange

JB
04-25-2003, 05:13 PM
do I need this? I think it is the smog pump. WOUld it be okay, if I just removed it?

StevenAg03
04-27-2003, 03:30 PM
10-4 just chunk that POS...

robertf03
04-27-2003, 06:49 PM
you'll kill the cat. convertors with no smog pump, gotta get rid of both

JB
06-11-2003, 06:11 PM
no more TTB

JB
06-11-2003, 06:13 PM
2

JB
06-11-2003, 06:29 PM
yeah, I am thinking I would like to mount a York?

BigRedFord04
06-12-2003, 07:36 PM
you've still gotta hack off those TTB drop brackets....THEN you can say "no more TTB" :flipoff2:

JB
06-12-2003, 08:16 PM
Originally posted by BigRedFord04
you've still gotta hack off those TTB drop brackets....THEN you can say "no more TTB" :flipoff2:

happy:flipoff2:

also just put on new front grill

fbronco86
06-12-2003, 11:45 PM
hey about your start issue thing. my bronco has the same problem the starter is really close to the header. just get you a life time starter and take it back. you will burn them up. autozone does not like when you keep on taking them back they got really mad at me and told me i needed to leave the store.

fbronco86
06-12-2003, 11:46 PM
ok this club is on a role i have no more TTB austin has no more TTB jbrown no more TTB shaggy i think its your turn to hack it off. did i miss anyone.

JB
06-13-2003, 01:05 AM
teh start propblem was a bad abttery, replaces it under warratny and all is good

yeah the headers pretty much incompass the starter adn will caus it to **** up. But with a solid 4e4, the longtubes headers will not work, so I need something differnt , maybe stock **** or some shotry style headers.



stil drizunk

Shaggy
06-13-2003, 09:12 AM
i cant do my swap as much as i work right now. my shop is in waco and i am working full time here in cs. i move into my new house august 1st and plan to have it all done before school starts. there is my deadline and i always keep my deadlines.

and by the way john all i gotta say about that grill is bling bling:flipoff2:

Seth
06-13-2003, 05:45 PM
you missed me

JB
08-23-2003, 12:20 PM
1

JB
08-23-2003, 12:21 PM
on the saw horses

JB
08-23-2003, 12:24 PM
d44 vs. d60 muhahahahaa

BigRedFord04
08-23-2003, 04:27 PM
hey, how about a nice big glass of shadda fu cup? :cheers:

Cajun
08-24-2003, 09:26 PM
I've got a set of 37s I'll let go for $150 :D

aggielr
08-25-2003, 03:04 AM
what size rim and what tire are we talkin? i might want 'em

Cajun
08-25-2003, 07:25 AM
16.5" wheel, perfect for your new 60 :D

If you're interested, I may have some black steelies that would match these for sale as well.

JB
08-25-2003, 11:38 AM
Iwas planning on running 37s. Give me some info about those tires

Cajun
08-25-2003, 12:37 PM
OEM Hummer Goodyear Wrangler MTs. They're the pre-MTR directional ones. 2 are about 80% and 2 are about 50%. Can't beat 'em for the price.:D

JB
08-25-2003, 01:34 PM
And do you have the Hummer rims to go with them?

Cajun
08-25-2003, 02:59 PM
Yup, but they're not for sale:D You don't want to run hummer wheels on a fullsize without changing the backspacing anyway.

JB
09-08-2003, 11:05 PM
Pulled the rear hangers from the front springs, the front hangers from the rear springs, and the rear shackles. Just need to figure out how to mount the front spring mounts for the 60. The stock A-shackles would be too weak. This was out at Hwy6. Anybody want the shock towers off it?

stx4wheeler
09-16-2003, 10:15 PM
yeah i have that starter/header problem on my 78 with the 460 you can prolly take a one pound coffee can cut enough space out of the side so it fits on the starter, and you also need to cut out the bottom then attach it to the starter with wire ties, the holes in both ends will let air in so it will be cooler and the can also works as a cheap heat shield if you want it to work even better spray the coffee can with heat resistant paint, ever since i did this i havent had to replace another starter

JB
09-16-2003, 10:18 PM
great idea.

But I am afraid the longtubes will have to go. I do not think that they will clear the driveshaft for the solid 60.

JB
09-17-2003, 12:48 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...DME:B:EOAB:US:6

Not too bad on the price:D

BigRedFord04
09-17-2003, 12:41 PM
linky no worky :flipoff2:

fbronco86
09-17-2003, 01:37 PM
i dont have any trouble with the driveshaft and the long tube headers. its a close fit

Doug Krebs
09-17-2003, 03:05 PM
depends on how much lift he is running too

fbronco86
09-17-2003, 03:38 PM
yes how much lift are you gonna run. I also have a problem with my front drive shaft hitting my tranny cross member. might want to check that out too.

JB
09-17-2003, 04:27 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2431982901&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOAB:US:6
If it still doesn;t work, it is a link to a Detroit Locka I won on eBay.

I want to run around 6inches overstock. The tranny crossmember can be notched if it hits. I'm pretty sure anything 6in and over will contact the crossmember.

fbronco86
09-17-2003, 05:16 PM
i put in a lock right. alot cheaper. i guess not as strong but i have not broken it yet.

JB
09-23-2003, 05:53 PM
Muhahaha:flipoff2:
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=84943&toggle=fullsize&f=stockvdetroit.jpg

New Detroit on right.

JB
09-25-2003, 08:44 PM
Took the axle to Texas Custom Coaters in Navasota to be powdercoated. I know I could have just spray painted it, but I wanted powdercoat.

Cleanup up some other parts, spindles, hubs, and dug up a bunch of stuff to sell on eBay. Check the For Sale forum for the link.

JB
10-19-2003, 12:48 AM
This is the upper ball joint that I just pressed in. As you can kinda see, it does not rally sit flush with the bottom, yet I swear it is seated all around at the top. Is this how it should look?

How do I tighten down the nuts on the upper and lower ball joints without the whole stud turning?

Also, the new Moog joints I just installed were really stiff out of the box, but after I put the press on them and installed them into the knuckle, they are not nearly as stiff. IS this a problem?

StevenAg03
10-19-2003, 10:28 AM
you should have a eccentric(sp?) that goes inside the outer part of the knuckle. this is how the vehicles camber and caster are set on that axoe. anyway, once that piece is jammed up in there, you should be able to tighten the nut down with a wrench which is all your gonna be able to get in there. also if i was you, i would have it alligned after you get it all back together....let them have the headache of making sure the ball joint nuts are tight....besides you cant get it alligned right in your driveway....

JB
10-19-2003, 06:12 PM
Yes, I installed the camber sleeve which the upper ball joint slides through. The upper ball joint will tighten up just fine, my problem is with the lower ball joint. When I tighten it, the whole stud turns. I can not get an impact on it b/c it is the lower joint, thus no room. I have applied slight pressure under the knuckle, but that does not help.

AM I going to have to wait until I can put the whole weight of the truck on it to tighten it up? Even then I do not see why that would help, but that is what I have been told.

Ball joints suck donkey balls.

JB
11-12-2003, 03:57 PM
frame boxed

JB
11-12-2003, 03:58 PM
will finish it up tomorrow with a 2x3 rectagular box steel spanning the frame, resting/welded to the hangars and frame...

Doug Krebs
11-12-2003, 04:09 PM
Welds look pretty good from what I can see. When did you learn how to weld?

fbronco86
11-12-2003, 05:16 PM
are you going to put anything between the two frame rails. the frame in the front is kinda weak from what i have been told. Thats why i put a crossmember in there and also the bumper acts as a second cross member.

also i plan on redoing mine all over this winter should be fun. i am gonna slam her down about 1 inch should be fun.

jerryg79
11-12-2003, 05:40 PM
Originally posted by JBrown89
will finish it up tomorrow with a 2x3 rectagular box steel spanning the frame, resting/welded to the hangars and frame...

I can read, can you mike?

Doug Krebs
11-12-2003, 05:42 PM
Wasn't that only for TTB? Since ttb puts force on the opposing frame rail? But if you have a straight axle the frame should be like any other frame?

StevenAg03
11-12-2003, 06:15 PM
thewre still isnt any real front crossmember in those year model trucks.

Shaggy
11-12-2003, 06:22 PM
i have broke my frame up front 3 times... i suggest bracing it

JB
11-12-2003, 06:24 PM
I can't weld. I tried and sucked. I found a friend of a friend up here to help me out. We drank some beers and finished waht is in the pics in about 2 hours. Tomorrow we will weld in the crossmember thing. It is just easier to do it this way then cutting out gussets and such and welding them to the hangar/frame. SHould be stronger as well.

There is the engine crossmember, which will be cut with the plasma tomorrow. Not all of it, just the area where the diff would hit.

JB
11-12-2003, 06:25 PM
Originally posted by JBrown89
will finish it up tomorrow with a 2x3 rectagular box steel spanning the frame, resting/welded to the hangars and frame...

JB
11-13-2003, 08:02 PM
pass. side welds

JB
11-13-2003, 08:02 PM
done

JB
11-13-2003, 08:03 PM
cut about 5-6inches out of the crossmember. I will clean it up withe the grinder tomorrow.

AgDieseler
11-14-2003, 12:49 AM
Nice looking welds. Good job so far.:cheers:

robertf03
11-14-2003, 01:26 AM
hell i've got that same nasty looking crossmember on my ford. maybe it'll get a solid axle swap :D

Doug Krebs
11-14-2003, 09:38 AM
robert I think you've done enough damage to one vehicle!!!:flipoff2:

robertf03
11-14-2003, 10:22 AM
Originally posted by Doug Krebs
robert I think you've done enough damage to one vehicle!!!:flipoff2:

the maxima got its fair share too

getting rid of the ttb rattles and clanks would be nice

JB
12-15-2003, 09:29 PM
edit. I do not know why it is not showing my linked pics, so the pics are just uploaded and in the next post .

There are plenty more detailed pics in my sig link.

I am just borrowing the 35s for now.

Plans to fined tune include raising the shackle up about an inch into the hangar for a slightly better pinion angle.

What about an angled spring mounting plate as opposed to the flat stock one. (by spring mounting plate, I mean the factory front "block" that is about 3/8" thick.) I am trying to get a better pinion anlge due to the reverse shackle.

JB
12-15-2003, 09:30 PM
?

JB
12-15-2003, 09:32 PM
Came out right where I wanted it. It is about 1.5" further forward than stock.

Violentv8toy
12-15-2003, 10:11 PM
Thats hott. What kind of steering are you looking at?

robertf03
12-15-2003, 10:20 PM
how come you went with leaf springs insetad of coils?

could be that hard to track down a set of radius arms and get some weld on nubs.

stx4wheeler
12-15-2003, 10:33 PM
i have heard that it is a pain to do on a dana 60 front. i know some guys with 78/79 broncos and they say there is a lot of work involved to get it to fit right and all that.

JB
12-15-2003, 10:47 PM
I originally thought it would be easier and cheaper. It is cheaper, but I would say not enough to make a difference in one's decision. I also thought it would be diffiflut to to get the 60 set up for coils and for my wrenching level, leafs just seemed easier. I know it would not be that difficult but it's done know. It will articlulate with the coiled 60'd Bronco guys fine and be stable.

JB
12-16-2003, 12:16 AM
Also, Austin, how is that steering of yours working? I was looking at the old pics and think the way you did yours will work well on mine. Where did you get the heims?

Shaggy
12-16-2003, 12:22 AM
his steering is working just awsome... it turns much better than it did stock... i cant remember where the heims were from but you could search for it... i know he mentioned it like 20 times

eight
12-16-2003, 12:46 AM
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=91923&prmenbr=361

JB
12-16-2003, 12:59 AM
I found it, thanks.

stupid question, but how is a jam nut different than a regular nut?

eight
12-16-2003, 01:14 AM
Its thinner. And you'll have a hard time finding a fine thread nut anyway. Check with Ace bolt and screw, they ordered a bunch of the 3/4" when I needed some. Order some misalignment washers too. Or who da thunk it but I went by extreme offroad and they now stock heims, weld in threaded inserts, and misalignment washers. Kinda high prices but if you got in a bind, they got em.

BigRedFord04
12-16-2003, 04:20 AM
yeah...so...those inserts xtreme carries, take a guess who makes 'em? ME. i made 10 last week at Vilas. We charge them an assload but they are more than happy to pay it. Stop by some time and talk to Gary about how much they'd charge regular customers. I wouldnt count on it being cheaper than a catalog tho.

I am really happy w/ my steering. As shown, Heims came from JEGS, cheapest chromo heims w/ teflon inserts i could find in about a week of looking and going to stores. Tate might even be willing to part with the tubing he has laying on our garage floor.

Bronco looks good man, hope to see it on the trail soon....maybe even make a trip w/ TAMOR and not just w/ Scott and Warren, who for some unknown reason have refused to join TAMOR for 3 years now. (I dont want to know why, dont hijack your own thread, i really dont care that much)

Chadnutz
12-16-2003, 05:19 AM
I still have DOM.

They haven't joined because they didn't think some of our rigs deserved to be at the truck show and were rather cocky about their rigs. Some of our members met them and were pretty disenchanted so they spoke out against them on the forum and the guys ended up reading it and deciding not to join the club, partly because some of us were jerks, and party because they are too good for us....... :rolleyes:

jerryg79
12-16-2003, 07:18 AM
Originally posted by BigRedFord04
(I dont want to know why, dont hijack your own thread, i really dont care that much)

PRECISELY

Shaggy
12-16-2003, 09:19 AM
i wont part with my tubing damnit... i swear one day i will get around to working on the bronco

JB
12-16-2003, 02:14 PM
Originally posted by BigRedFord04
yeah...so...those inserts xtreme carries, take a guess who makes 'em? ME. i made 10 last week at Vilas. We charge them an assload but they are more than happy to pay it. Stop by some time and talk to Gary about how much they'd charge regular customers. I wouldnt count on it being cheaper than a catalog tho.


I wondererd why I saw your truck at Villas last week.


I am really happy w/ my steering. As shown, Heims came from JEGS, cheapest chromo heims w/ teflon inserts i could find in about a week of looking and going to stores. Tate might even be willing to part with the tubing he has laying on our garage floor.

I think the heims from Jegs will be the cheapest, but I will run by Xtreme and see what they want.



Bronco looks good man, hope to see it on the trail soon....maybe even make a trip w/ TAMOR and not just w/ Scott and Warren, who for some unknown reason have refused to join TAMOR for 3 years now. (I dont want to know why, dont hijack your own thread, i really dont care that much)

:rolleyes:



What do you think about making your drag link mount taller? The higher, the less safe??

robertf03
12-16-2003, 02:28 PM
why not use tie rod ends?

JB
12-16-2003, 02:51 PM
I am reading around on Pirate, and am realizing that maybe TREs might be the way to go for what I want.

Austin, why did you put the drag link heim in single shear?

AgDieseler
12-16-2003, 02:53 PM
Originally posted by robertf03
why not use tie rod ends?
I second that. It's a much simpler connection, more reliable, and more durable than heims. That's not too say that heims suck, and you would probably be happy with them, but even the nicest teflon lined heims won't last as long as a Moog TRE. I think you, not to mention your wallet, would be happier in the long run with TREs. Your steering system is going to be operating at some very safe angles, and a TRE can handle them just fine.

Ask Ryan St. John how many QA1 heims are still alive on his Cherokee. I think he actually found a teflon insert lying on the groud one time.

That's just my .02 :cheers:

JB
12-16-2003, 03:30 PM
Moog tie rods are $66 a piece. Cheaper brands were not much cheaper.

Xtreme wants $37 for the heims and $13 for the inserts.

BigRedFord04
12-16-2003, 08:47 PM
yes, the inserts are made of 4340.

i put the mount where it was #1: because of leverage. the pulling and pushing forces get exponentially greater as you move away from the centerlink. #2: because where it is it lines up perfectly with my track bar, which keeps stuff from binding in flex.

i like my heims because comparitavely they are 2x as thick on the rounded part than any other heims i've seen.

bburris
12-16-2003, 09:04 PM
Originally posted by JBrown89
Moog tie rods are $66 a piece. Cheaper brands were not much cheaper.

HOLY CRAP!!! Make a friend at a car parts store. I just got Chevy "one ton" tie rod ends for ~$25 apiece, and Wrangler ends for $18 apiece. That price is for Moog lifetime warranty tie rod ends from Car Quest. Their cheaper brand was about half that. Yes, WFO Offroad has a cash account there so we get shop prices, but surely you know someone at O'Reilly or NAPA that can help you a little.

If you end up using Chevy TREs (their thread is 7/8-18), you can get some DOM from Chadnutz and use weld-in inserts from Poly Performance.

3rd from the bottom, P/N PP-TA14 (http://www.polyperformance.com/tube_adapters.htm)

JB
12-18-2003, 07:04 PM
38s look better, too bad their not mine

JB
12-18-2003, 07:06 PM
Originally posted by bburris
HOLY CRAP!!! Make a friend at a car parts store. I just got Chevy "one ton" tie rod ends for ~$25 apiece, and Wrangler ends for $18 apiece. That price is for Moog lifetime warranty tie rod ends from Car Quest. Their cheaper brand was about half that. Yes, WFO Offroad has a cash account there so we get shop prices, but surely you know someone at O'Reilly or NAPA that can help you a little.

If you end up using Chevy TREs (their thread is 7/8-18), you can get some DOM from Chadnutz and use weld-in inserts from Poly Performance.

3rd from the bottom, P/N PP-TA14 (http://www.polyperformance.com/tube_adapters.htm)

What about welding a nut to the end of the DOM and use that to thread in the heim/TRE?

Cajun
12-18-2003, 07:17 PM
Originally posted by JBrown89
38s look better, too bad their not mine

I know someone with 4 of those for sale on 8 lug wheels...:D

JB
12-18-2003, 08:51 PM
Originally posted by Cajun
I know someone with 4 of those for sale on 8 lug wheels...:D

would that person be you? details? hummer rims right?

froader03
12-18-2003, 08:57 PM
Originally posted by JBrown89
What about welding a nut to the end of the DOM and use that to thread in the heim/TRE?

***... that's awesome... truly an idea in response to having a money pit on a college student's budget.

JB
12-18-2003, 11:40 PM
Originally posted by froader03
***... that's awesome... truly an idea in response to having a money pit on a college student's budget.

:flipoff2:

Well I think it knew it was nearing completion and decided to piss me off and start squirting gas through a pinhole leak, with of course a full tank :( I guess I am ordering a new tank tomorrow.

Cajun
12-18-2003, 11:55 PM
Originally posted by JBrown89
would that person be you? details? hummer rims right?

Nope, not mine. 38.5" x 16.5" SXs on 12" wide black Eaton or Bart wheels, can't tell which.

Pics can be seen in the "Another rig goes under the knife" thread.

uglyota
12-19-2003, 10:49 AM
Originally posted by JBrown89
I guess I am ordering a new tank tomorrow.
Don't do it!
JBweld it...it's totally safe
If you still think you need a new tank after this, find one at a junkyard at your leisure or get a fuel cell later down the road. You'll regret the $100 on a JCWhitney tank.

JB
01-16-2004, 06:41 PM
finished the shackle flip and an looking around for spring centering pins but can't find ones I need. I ordered a new tank b/c the original one was rusty and pretty beat. Also having a friend built a beefier skid.

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=102366&toggle=fullsize&f=empty rear.jpg

bburris
01-16-2004, 07:08 PM
You might try Ace Nut and Bolt in Bryan. I can't remember where Paul found the ones for my Jeep, but if I talk to him this evening I'll ask.

uglyota
01-16-2004, 07:29 PM
I got spring pins at Napa by Walmart in CS...be sure and bring the remnants of the old ones with you...and a piece of garden hose (they usually need some persuasion before they stop saying "we don't have them" and go in the back and look):D

AgDieseler
01-16-2004, 09:24 PM
I got my center pins at NAPA as well.

bburris
01-16-2004, 10:21 PM
Mine came from a trailer shop.

eight
01-18-2004, 05:50 PM
I use grade 8 bolts and a little grinding to the heads.

Graystroke
01-18-2004, 06:18 PM
grade eight allen heads- no grinding required

JB
02-18-2004, 12:14 AM
Not to me shown up by Tate...:flipoff2:

rear is done except for the hard lines. I used a flaring tool to flare the hard lines, but they are leaking big time and I can not seem to get a good flared end.

JB
02-18-2004, 12:16 AM
kinda a ride height...it will drop alot in the rear after the gas tank, bumper, tire carrier, spare, and hardtop are on.

4 degree shims up front got me back to about 4.5 degrees castor.

StevenAg03
02-18-2004, 12:54 AM
hey john, make sure you double flare the hard lines. also when you cut the lines to length, you have to get a round file and file out the inside of the tube. when you cut it, it gets a little lip that makes double flaring it damn near impossible. after you get this lip off it will work no problem.

stx4wheeler
02-18-2004, 12:55 AM
how you gonna get it out of there, take all the air out of the tires? It looks a little to big to get out but looks good on a second note. :cheers:

bburris
02-18-2004, 01:07 AM
Originally posted by stx4wheeler
how you gonna get it out of there, take all the air out of the tires? It looks a little to big to get out but looks good on a second note. :cheers:

chop dat top yo:flipoff2:

JB
02-18-2004, 01:07 AM
Originally posted by StevenAg03
hey john, make sure you double flare the hard lines. also when you cut the lines to length, you have to get a round file and file out the inside of the tube. when you cut it, it gets a little lip that makes double flaring it damn near impossible. after you get this lip off it will work no problem.

I keep cracking the ends. When you say double flare, do you jsut mean do it twice?

robertf03
02-18-2004, 01:21 AM
john, i've broken more double flaring tools than most people have ever seen


the harbor freight one is the only double flaring tool i've had success with, don't let the HF reputation scare you away. its way better than the ones from napa, oreillys, pep boys, and of course autozone, even though they all come in the same or better plastic case.

Double flaring is when you flare it once so it gets diamond shaped, then a second time to fold it in so its a regular flare shape.

the way you cut the tube is important too. the HF tube cutter works great, but has a short life. Get 2, after about 10 cuts its done.

fbronco86
02-18-2004, 01:33 AM
i think flem is right. you have to get a good square cut on the tubing before you flare it.

do you have a double flare tool or a single flare tool?

JB
02-18-2004, 01:42 AM
I am borrowing one that is exactly like all the ones at O'Reillys/Napa...I assume it is single flare. I can get it to the diamond shape, but can not or do not know how to fold it over like the old factory lines. I have fawked with it all day and can not get it to not leak. I threw it on the ground in frusteration and it didn't break damnit.

robertf03
02-18-2004, 01:45 AM
order the HF one, they all look alike but there is a difference

and if you can get the diamond shape, but not flare the rest it sounds like you aren't deburring the edges or getting a square cut.

I deburr them first with the debur tool on the HF tube cutter, then with a drill but and pliers.

fbronco86
02-18-2004, 01:47 AM
yeah i bought the double flare tool from ho reilly's it was like 12$. works like a champ.

stx4wheeler
02-18-2004, 05:22 PM
hey john how much lift do you have on your rear end about? Are those the stock springs with new bronco front rear hangers in the back, and the flip. Hows yours pinion angle now? and also how much did it cost to get those front rear shackle hangers?

JB
02-18-2004, 05:49 PM
Stock Bronco springs. Sock front rear hangars, stock shackle. Pinion angle is almost perfect, no blocks, no shims. I am guessing around 6inches.

I got all the hangars, both rear rear, both rear front, both rear shackles and all of the frontend hangars and A-shackless, 12 pieces total, cutoff a junkyard 4x4 F250 for $100. Good deal considering it took Pepe a good 2-3 hours to get them all off.

I think the pic of the donor truck is a few pages back.

Shaggy
02-18-2004, 06:09 PM
i havent even gotten my truck yet... i am not trying to show you up... we all be heavy bronco buddies... with em 60 and 10.25

JB
03-22-2004, 12:31 AM
Nothing to do with the Bronco, but in Chadnutz fashion I
ll post my passage into the big 100k...
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=113602&toggle=fullsize&f=P0000029.jpg

Chadnutz
03-22-2004, 01:21 AM
By the time I graduate I'll probably be able to post 200k. :D

JB
04-05-2004, 01:15 PM
It's in there for good.

http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=115476&toggle=fullsize&f=complete4.jpg

AgDieseler
04-05-2004, 01:17 PM
Look at that shiny paint! When's it getting dirty?:D

JB
04-07-2004, 02:59 PM
put in tranny cooler for use as a PS cooler...
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=115890&toggle=fullsize&f=ps cooler 3.jpg
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=115888&toggle=fullsize&f=ps cooler 1.jpg

uglyota
04-07-2004, 04:24 PM
I like! :cheers:

JB
04-07-2004, 10:03 PM
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=116346&toggle=fullsize&f=header 2.jpg
cheap mustang headers, new plugs, and I put the starter back on. Just waiting on the fuel tank.

AgDieseler
04-08-2004, 12:07 AM
Wait a minute. Is this a TAMOR project? You've been making entirely too much progress lately. We're coming up on the 1 year mark, so this thing might actually see the trail!

:cheers: :D

uglyota
04-08-2004, 05:20 PM
While you're waiting you should probably make some kind of heat shield for the starter and wrap the headers (at least the one next to the starter).

JB
04-09-2004, 06:23 PM
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=116644&toggle=fullsize&f=38s.jpg
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=116645&toggle=fullsize&f=38s2.jpg

I like these better

JB
05-02-2004, 07:08 PM
all cleaned up...
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=120988&toggle=fullsize&f=complete.jpg

JB
05-02-2004, 07:08 PM
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=120989&toggle=fullsize&f=complete 3.jpg

Chadnutz
05-02-2004, 07:31 PM
looks good, but your fenders are in trouble.

JB
05-02-2004, 08:32 PM
yeah, that pic makes them look too big. I think they will tuck very snuggly though.

BigRedFord04
05-03-2004, 12:50 AM
so did it fit outta the garage w/ those on it?

JB
05-03-2004, 01:23 AM
no, I put Tate's old 35s on and had 3 people sit on the tailgate. It still grazed the garage door a little bit though.

davido
05-03-2004, 05:51 PM
That thing looks freakin' tough!

Shaggy
05-03-2004, 06:36 PM
you planning on running those 38's?.... it looks good

uglyota
05-03-2004, 06:45 PM
Thing looks mean...can't wait to see it get dirty :D
definitely trim the fronts of the wheelwells
What's left to do?

JB
05-03-2004, 07:30 PM
The front of the front fenders are already taped up and waiting for a little trimming. Not taking much more out.

A friend of mine built me a beefy gas tank skid from 1/4" steel and we got it fitting up last night. Then took it off and he took it to fully weld it up, drill a couple more holes and clean it up. Suppose to put it all back together tomorrow. Then I can fire it up for the first time in a while. I hope it starts.

It needs steering stuff. I will probably end up useing the stock setup for now.

Also needs shocks. Need to measure on ramp once I get it running.

Still has 4.10s in the rear. (4.88s up front) Need a D60 stub shaft too.

And I probably need to pay the guy for those 38s and rims.

Also will go through the whole truck and make ssure everything is torqued down.

Thanks for the compliments

JB
05-04-2004, 11:09 PM
It starts, it runs, its steers, but no brake pressure. Going to put a new line on tomrorrow and bleed everything again.

JeepPhisherman
05-04-2004, 11:30 PM
Wow man, I just read through that whole thread cause I was bored as fawk

But god damn, thats sexy
:flipoff2:

william_ace
05-05-2004, 02:42 AM
yah i did that too the other day. looks like everything is goin well. good luck with the brakes.

Jackasic
05-05-2004, 08:20 AM
congrats John, it is looking good.:cheers:

JB
05-08-2004, 07:40 PM
new gas tank skid...
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=122001&toggle=fullsize&f=fuel tank skid.jpg

JB
05-08-2004, 07:48 PM
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=122000&toggle=fullsize&f=flex6.jpg
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=121998&toggle=fullsize&f=flex4.jpg
tucked well..
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=121997&toggle=fullsize&f=flex3.jpg

That ledge is only 25 inches tall, so couldn't max out. Need to find a bigger ramp, but really should not be driving it. Brakes are bad and it is idling very rough, like it is not getting fuel for a second. Could it be some water/moisture in tank?

Rusty Muffler said I should buy the exhaust parts online and it would be alot cheaper. Exhaust is next on my list.

uglyota
05-08-2004, 08:01 PM
Originally posted by JBrown89
new gas tank skid...
http://www.superford.org/getfile.php?id=122001&toggle=fullsize&f=fuel tank skid.jpg
Did you make that? Have it made? thickness? Mine's all bashed up.

JB
05-08-2004, 09:11 PM
I had it made. It is 1/4" and is heavy.

JB
05-09-2004, 12:18 PM
Forgot to ask, anyone know of good places online to buy exhaust parts? I need a cat(2 in 1 out), and a something like a Flowmaster 40?

Another question. Even after I fix the other leaking rear line, I think that I will still have a soft pedal. Could this be the booster? Are there any advantages with going with a 1-ton MC and booster?

eight
05-09-2004, 12:38 PM
No it can't be the booster.

If your master cylinder does not have enough volume then you might think about going to the one ton, if it has a bigger bore. With the stock one on my jeep the pedal would hit the floor but it did stop good still. When I replaced it I went with a bigger one and the pedal is harder to push, but doesn't go to the floor anymore.

BigRedFord04
05-09-2004, 01:58 PM
i think cooper has a couple of mufflers. you dont want my suggestion for exhaust cuz i spent a lot of $$ on mine. why bother w/ a cat?

bburris
05-09-2004, 01:59 PM
You might check out ebay for exhaust parts and compare to Summit and Jeg's prices to see if it's a decent deal...

AgDieseler
05-09-2004, 03:47 PM
Good job! :cheers:

JB
06-01-2004, 07:24 PM
Got new front grille parts in, so grille is now all comnplete. I am still waiting on UPS to get me my new D60 stub shaft. Also had the front seat 'rebuilt' and ordered some vinyl flooring.

Got a new DD has well, 99 LT 4x4, 45k miles, bling bling.

uglyota
06-02-2004, 09:24 AM
Got a new DD has well, 99 LT 4x4, 45k miles, bling bling.
That'll carry a whole soccer team and a week's worth of groceries!
:flipoff2: -pimp-

froader03
06-08-2004, 03:15 PM
There's a big ugly tool in the back of my dad's shop.

your dad's son, perhaps? :flipoff2:

JB
06-21-2004, 07:19 PM
I don't need no stinkin' diesel :flipoff2:
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile.php?id=129872&toggle=fullsize&f=.jpg

It pushes me around, but pulls it well for what it is.

Thanks Brandon.

Shaggy
06-21-2004, 07:21 PM
where did you take it?

JB
06-21-2004, 07:34 PM
Moving it too new house sometime this week. Had to take it to work today though cause I couldn't get the trailer off the ball this morning, but I figured it out.

JB
08-08-2004, 09:37 PM
Well it runs, but not well. It will idle, but not well. It brakes, but not well. A whole lotta bugs to work out.

I think it is running rich. I am getting alot of black smoke and it will die if I let off the gas.

The brakes will stop, but the pedal goes way too far down. I am replacing the MC tonight or tomorrow b/c its old and a neew one was cheap.

Rusty did the exhaust last week as well, so when it will idle, it sounds pretty decent.

I sorta measured for shocks today. At rest, mounting point to mounting point is 21.5" and once flexed, the droppped front side measured 26", while the front compressed side measured about 18" I am happy with the articulation. ANy other numbers I might need when I order shocks???

BigRedFord04
08-08-2004, 11:25 PM
this page helped me when i was lookin' for shocks.

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/shockspecs/

if you dont wanna spend the $$ for the 9000s, 5000s are the same p/n's w/ a 5 in front.

JB
08-08-2004, 11:33 PM
exactly what i was looking for. Thanks

JB
09-10-2004, 08:57 PM
Well, I have been driving it a little bit.

I bought some shocks. Rancho 5112s. Also had it aligned today and had them install a cam kit to get the camber right. Drives nice and straight.

The interior is done except for a center console. Got a Pioneer CD player and some new Infiniti speakers. SOunds great.

Still needs rear gears/locker. Also needs a good set of 36-38" tires and rims.

Engine is running not so good. I have only driven it maybe 20-30 miles and I think it already drank all 30 gallons. I forgot to have Rusty weld a bung in for an 02 sensor when he did teh exhaust. Maybe not having the O2 sensor that it is suppose to have is causing it to run so rich. The stock oil pressure gauge moves from low to high, low to high alot. Temp is also higher than normal. All bugs that need to be worked out.

Put on a new MC/brake booster,but the brakes need to be bleed one last time(I really hope it is the last time.)

Anyways, we wil be tailgating on it tomorrow on top of WCG.

Gig em and beat the hell outta Wyoming! :gigem:

uglyota
09-11-2004, 12:30 PM
no Alto?

cntryboy1865
09-12-2004, 02:36 PM
he does not have 4x4 yet. 4.10s in the rear and 4.88s in the front. would make for some interesting wheelin if he tried though.

JB
10-12-2004, 09:43 PM
I have the most pages, thus my Bronco buildup reigns supreme

I have made zero progress by the way :flipoff2:

JB
10-27-2004, 06:41 PM
picked it up today. THey were coming 10k of sticker on 04s

extended cab
xlt
4x4
5.4
75k warranty

:beer: :beer:

davido
10-27-2004, 06:47 PM
PHAT! Congrats!

Shaggy
10-27-2004, 07:24 PM
that is badass my friend... i want one

savvyaggie
10-27-2004, 07:41 PM
sweeeeeet!!!!!

eight
10-27-2004, 08:14 PM
That'll look badass with 35s.

StevenAg03
10-27-2004, 10:39 PM
hell yeah it would....the guy behind me has a 4 door version on some 35's. its not frat boy lifted either...just enough to clear the tires and it looks damn good...

JB
10-27-2004, 10:43 PM
I think the 2.5" daystar spacer lift will get it up enough to clear 35s

But damnit, I cant spend money on this, must buy rear gears and detroit for bronco.

found a pic. Those of 35s on 20s.
http://www.fordtruckworld.com/gallery/FX4ENVY/463499.jpg

minus the :rainbow: grill and hood and 20s, it might look good with the 2" spacers, 35s and 17s.

What am I talking about. I am not going ot **** with this truck for a couple years.......months.....weeks :gigem:

savvyaggie
10-27-2004, 10:56 PM
Congrads on da new ride!!!!!!!!


Say John, do ya wheelin with warren much?

JB
10-27-2004, 11:00 PM
Yeah, he is going to BMRA next weekend. I'd take the Bronc, but I have not got the rear gears yet. But I might go anyway and tow the "my ****'s broke" trailer up there.

savvyaggie
10-27-2004, 11:03 PM
Yeah, he is going to BMRA next weekend. I'd take the Bronc, but I have not got the rear gears yet. But I might go anyway and tow the "my ****'s broke" trailer up there.


he seems like a pretty cool guy, are they going all weekend

Sorry for the hyjack!!!!!!!

BigRedFord04
10-28-2004, 02:19 AM
how about a pic of its arse end?

JB
10-28-2004, 10:36 AM
the tag says L55 9 75...

bburris
10-28-2004, 10:50 AM
can I get a

BOO-YA

:flipoff2: haha Austin

BigRedFord04
10-28-2004, 11:46 AM
i never said i was 100% sure. i just know i've seen A LOT of the newer ones w/ 8.8" rearends. i'm going to the dealership today to look at the `05s.

Shaggy
10-28-2004, 02:46 PM
i was just up there... all the 05s had 9.75 and most of the 04s did too... some had 8.8 though

BigRedFord04
10-28-2004, 04:44 PM
yes...they're still putting 8.8"s in 2005s. they put them in 2004s as well. all disc brakes. Tate...did you see a 2005 w/ a 4.6? trend seems to be that the trucks w/ the 4.6 get the 8.8", and the 5.4 trucks get the 9.75".

pics are rearend then dealer tag that was on it.

uglyota
10-28-2004, 04:56 PM
tryin to achieve the prestigious "uploads more pics than cooper" award?
If you're not going to post something useful, at least make it funny :rolleyes:






















:flipoff2:

Shaggy
10-28-2004, 05:42 PM
all i was looking at were mostly 5.4s and eric how was yours useful or funny?

uglyota
10-28-2004, 05:51 PM
all i was looking at were mostly 5.4s and eric how was yours useful or funny?
malicious
I knew I was in trouble when I hit "submit"

agjohn02
10-28-2004, 05:57 PM
hey austin, you got too much time on your hands or just hate being wrong so much that you make time to go by the turd dealer?

malicious with just a touch of sarcasm

Shaggy
10-28-2004, 06:02 PM
he doesnt have a job right now... what else is he supposed to do but go to junk yards and ford dealerships?

uglyota
10-28-2004, 06:08 PM
what happened to the machining job?

BigRedFord04
10-29-2004, 01:17 AM
eh...."its just not working out"....f*ck that guy....PM me if you really care to hear the whole story.

uglyota
10-29-2004, 08:21 AM
...PM me if you really care to hear the whole story.
don't hold your breath :flipoff2:

JB
11-15-2004, 01:11 AM
Replaced the in tanke pump and made and access panel...
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/157825/fullsize/fuel%20pump%20access.jpg
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/157826/fullsize/fuel%20pump%20access%202.jpg
yes, I am a dumbass and cut on the outsideof the four holes, but I made every thing turn out decent.

Runs better. It was cutting out alot at random, like it was not getting fuel for a second. If I gave it some throttle, it would not do it.

I think I need to adjust or "tighten" up the steering box. IS this possible? The steering linkages are all brand new, the gear box is couple years old and pump is not too old, and it was recently aligned. I can turn the wheel alot left/right with not much turning. Just does not feel tight.

I bought a Detroit gift certifacte for any Detroit for $375, so I am just waiting on my rear locker to get hear. It is usualy about $525 new. :gigem:

agjohn02
11-15-2004, 01:18 AM
i dunno what kind of box you have, but mine has an adjusting stud on top. tighten it very little, then check. and so on. if you get it too tight it'll jerk the steering wheel out of your hand while your driving. i dont know if this is a common occurance, but its the result i got from getting mine too tight on my truck in high school.

stx4wheeler
11-15-2004, 01:34 AM
yeah the proper way to do this is jack it up and put on jack stands then you tighten and loosen till you getit to where it feels better, also john have you checked if the steering shaft coupler or rag joint is worn out.

JB
11-15-2004, 01:38 AM
yeah the proper way to do this is jack it up and put on jack stands then you tighten and loosen till you getit to where it feels better, also john have you checked if the steering shaft coupler or rag joint is worn out.

I suspect the rag joint as well. I am going to mess around with the box tomorrow, see if I can figure it out.

JB
12-01-2004, 12:31 AM
:D

New Detroit straight from TracTech. Ended up only spending $375 to get it. Retails for over $520. I bought a free locker gift certificate off Lonestar. Now I just need rear 4.88s and tires and rims and better steering :flipoff2: and I am ready to wheel. :beer:

I think I am really more excited about the sticker :D

savvyaggie
12-01-2004, 12:38 AM
If it's goin to be awhile before you get it ready can I borrow your windshield??? ;) ;) ;)


J/K, congrads!!!!

JB
02-04-2005, 03:31 PM
mmmm, tires. 36x12.5 SXs, brand spankin new. Also, finished up the serpentine belt conversion. Headed out to a buddy's ranch for the weekend and am going to see how it all works. It has been a longass 3 years of building it, so I hope it all functions like it should.

uglyota
02-04-2005, 03:50 PM
awesome, and you're on your, what, 3rd DD since starting on it?
Looks sweet!
:cheers:

JB
02-06-2005, 04:49 PM
Just got back from wheeling this weekend. It has been a long time since I have really wheeled anything, but it came back to me.

The lockers just amazed me. The truck walked up everything I pointed it at. The suspension, axles and motor all worked great. The throttle spring is sticking a little bit, causing it to run pretty high rpms unless I popped the hood and fixed it.

I did get alot of body damage, which I am still getting over :D The drivers's door is trashed, the drivers rear quarter is trashed, the front grill and healight shells, and turn signal took a beating (b/c of no bumper)

Here is some pics...

JB
02-06-2005, 04:52 PM
Most of the drivers damage was done on a tree when KRigg was pulling me out of a creek trail

****

fbronco86
02-06-2005, 06:03 PM
Looks good let get that bad dude on the rocks. That where the real fun is.

savvyaggie
02-06-2005, 09:12 PM
IKKKS!!!!! that body was almost mint befor that trip(well, at least compared to mine).... Oh well, its broken in good now....

JB
02-06-2005, 09:15 PM
yeah, it was. beer will take my pain away.

thinking about tube doors. If not, Tate, do you still have the doors off the crew cab? Warren says he could get you $75 for that t-case

savvyaggie
02-06-2005, 09:24 PM
I have been wanting tube doors, also b/c tube doors are better than no doors.... been meaning to get with eric to make some uglyfab ones...

uglyota
02-07-2005, 10:48 AM
I have been wanting tube doors, also b/c tube doors are better than no doors.... been meaning to get with eric to make some uglyfab ones...
as soon as we get bend'n...

uglyota
02-07-2005, 11:45 AM
hey John, did any of those Lhor guys have any info on Cline?

JB
02-07-2005, 03:01 PM
No, did not even think to ask.

Next stages of the buildup will be all the metal work. I can at least still wheel it while I do this. I am having a buddy come over to see if he can make me some tube doors today. Next will be sliders, a full cage, modify the rear tire carrier slightly, and built a super simple front bumper with hitch for a winch.

Can anyone in the area build me a cage? I do not want a jungle gym, just enough to do it's job. I want it to be done right and look professional and still fit under the hardtop. What would I be loooking to spend here?

Also, I have decided to go ahead and line the floor with some type of roll on bedliner. After that, I will built a center console for all switches, CB, speakers etc.

JB
02-17-2005, 08:39 PM
Just got this pic...

Get it!

savvyaggie
02-17-2005, 09:10 PM
sweet!!!!!

Shaggy
02-18-2005, 12:31 PM
hardcore bro... hardcore...

davido
02-18-2005, 01:06 PM
Kevin Roth wannabe?


Kick ass JBrown. So when is the next trip? I REALLY need to get out.

JB
02-24-2005, 01:39 AM
Hurculined the interior and am going to by some seat covers for my pretty seats now that I do not have doors. I hope to have a cage, sliders, and tube doors before TCC at Katemcy.

I'll get some pics up tomorrow

JB
04-05-2005, 12:09 AM
Had some sliders built, even though I guess they are a little late. Tube doors are next and should be partially complete for TCC.

I need at trailer or a spot on a trailer to get to Katemcy. Anyone?

JB
04-10-2005, 05:12 PM
My buddy finished them up. I like um

fbronco86
04-10-2005, 06:04 PM
looks sweet. Now u just need to destroy it at katamcy like mine is.

JB
04-10-2005, 06:09 PM
i think thats the plan

Shaggy
04-10-2005, 11:05 PM
sweetness

JB
04-13-2005, 12:58 AM
leveled pickup last week, it was waaay lower up front before. Added 1.5" spacers to top of struts, needs 285s...
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/193123/fullsize/P0000004.jpg

JB
04-13-2005, 12:59 AM
Tube doors bent up today, will get pics on Thursday. ALso got personal plates :gigem: But I am probably the only one that thinks they are not :rainbow: :D

Still need a way to transport Bronco to Katmency?

JB
04-13-2005, 10:05 PM
For the most part done. I really like them, when they close, it sounds so much better than the original doors. Nice solid thud. Paint them tomorrow and maybe add a stopper to hold them tight against the body when closed (latch holds them pretty tight, but there is a little bit of play). After TCC, the area between the door and the front fender will be made to look better with a small panel that will probably be cut from the old doors

http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/196117/fullsize/tube%20door%201.jpg
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/196118/fullsize/tube%20door%202.jpg

JB
06-10-2005, 10:10 PM
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/213852/fullsize/IM000554a.jpg
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/213849/fullsize/IM000554.jpg
Installed some F450 rear shackles that I bought from Ford. They are beefier than the stock Bronco ones, that bent at Katemcy. I also put my old AAL back into my stock pack to get the assend up a little higher.

Steering and/or rear disc brakes next week.

What might be a good, cheap body shop to go to? I dont want much, but I would like the big dent behind the door to be at least popped out a bit, and I need some holes filled in the tailgate where the stock latch use to be to prevent water from getting in.

StevenAg03
06-13-2005, 08:32 AM
so what are the plates?

Jackasic
06-13-2005, 09:16 AM
caseys body shop in Bryan, behind where the "new" fred brown car dealership is.

JB
06-13-2005, 03:39 PM
BGBRNC, i know, gay

Thanks Brandon, I'll check it out.

Did you ever get the old truck and trailer fixed up? I think I saw you the other day. Is the new truck pewter and 4x4?

BMFScout
06-13-2005, 04:31 PM
if it was pewter and looks too nice for Brandon to be driving it even though it is ten years old, then yep that was it! I told him he might actually keep a few jobs int eh nicer neighborhoods now, they won't be ashamed to have that other truck out in front of their house...

JB
07-12-2005, 09:10 PM
I finished the tie rod with the help of Tate's chop saw. It is 1.5" DOM with 3/4" heims from PSC. Not welded yet though
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/223875/fullsize/IM000567.jpg
bad pic, but it is big and heavy. The puppy liked the flashing light.
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/223876/fullsize/IM000566.jpg

also got some new shoes, 285/70/17s. Got a hell of a deal at Discount in Houston. The old rear tires were chunking hardcore, and I tried to have them warrantied through Ford, but they said it came from spinning the tires :D
http://www.supermotors.org/getfile/223879/fullsize/IM000565.jpg

Jackasic
07-12-2005, 09:53 PM
looking good John, yea that's the "new" work truck. 97 3/4 ton 4x4, auto, way to nice for me :D

JB
09-29-2005, 12:32 AM
Damn, i just found this old picture. It was once that clean :(

JB
12-13-2005, 01:43 AM
What would be wrong with running a drag link with Chevy TREs and a tie rod with heims?

I sent off my pass knuckle to ORU ato hav ethe crossover arm put on and I just foudn out that the hole that is on the arm for the d-link is tapered for a 1 ton Chevy TRE. My fault.

Also, 1 ton Chevy TREs are always refered to as 7/8".......is 7/8" the thread size? or the bigend of the taper??

JB
12-13-2005, 01:44 AM
Also, ORU thought I was crazy for wanting to run heims joints in any rig that wasn't a "full blown race truck".......Whats up with that???

Doug Krebs
12-13-2005, 02:20 AM
What would be wrong with running a drag link with Chevy TREs and a tie rod with heims?

I sent off my pass knuckle to ORU ato hav ethe crossover arm put on and I just foudn out that the hole that is on the arm for the d-link is tapered for a 1 ton Chevy TRE. My fault.

Also, 1 ton Chevy TREs are always refered to as 7/8".......is 7/8" the thread size? or the bigend of the taper??

Thread size... 7/8 - 18

JB
12-28-2005, 09:26 PM
bought 4 Chevy TREs today. They really make the heims that I wanted to run look small. Also, the UPS guy brought me a new passenger side knuckle for the D60 so I can run crossover.. The first picture is of all the parts piling up (all the rear disc brake conversion stuff)

fbronco86
12-28-2005, 09:36 PM
Who did the welding for you? Looks like it was done with a TIG? Do you know what type of rod they used to weld that? I have seen welding at work that is steel to cast is pinged forever to stress relieve the weld area but we use a stick welder. Just wandering

Shaggy
12-28-2005, 09:42 PM
how much did that nuckle set you back... i might need to do that

JB
12-28-2005, 09:51 PM
I dont know about the welding.

I got it from ORU and it cost way too much.

eight
12-28-2005, 09:56 PM
Is that a complete new custom knuckle? Or some sort of modified stock?

JB
12-28-2005, 10:15 PM
i sent them my knuckle and it come back with the new arm bolted and welded to it. I am not sure if they reused the knuckle i sent them, or they kept it like a core

JB
12-29-2005, 09:44 PM
I got the steering mocked up jsut now. The steering wheel is straight in the 3rd picture. Shouldn't the pitman point more straight forward?

In the other pictures, I want to ream the stock pitman arm from the top(to fit the chevy tre) Question is, at full left turn, i am unsure if the chevy tre will hit the frame.

If anyone here has a Ford setup like this (Chadnutz?) Can you do me a favor and tell me how many turns of the steering wheel it takes to get to full left turn?

I am going to try to hit up Vilas tomorrow to see if they can ream everything for me. Should I take the Chevy tre specs(i have the numbers for the small/large parts of the taper) or would they rather have the actual tre that is going to mount into the taper?

AggieTJ2007
12-30-2005, 11:24 AM
no, it doesn't point strait forward. I just went outside and looked at the 350, and it looks just like yours

BMFScout
12-30-2005, 11:35 AM
I took them the pitman arm and the TRE and told them to make them fit together, they did some type of "FM" process, then I picked it up later.

Sharpe
12-30-2005, 11:38 AM
Chevy TRE's have a 1.5" per foot taper. Take the end to them anyway.

Shaggy
01-03-2006, 07:48 PM
Did you ever get your rear disc breaks set up... if not can i borrow a bracket to make a copy of it