Whats next?

[BigRedFord04]

Whats everyone got on their to-do list before TCC? This summer? Soon to come?

Heres mine:
change oil
replace leaking heater core
finger out why my check engine light keeps coming on (see here (http://www.tamor.org/forum/upload/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1930))
try and reseal rear diff cover
replace rear axle (10.25")
convert to 8 lug front

[Shaggy]

Solid Axle Swap
steering
Hydro-assist
build new engine mount crossmember
front/rear bumpers & rocksliders
add onto roll cage
half doors
9" full-float/diskbreak conversion
new windshield
and just maby pull out some dents
oh yeah and get a front driveshaft:D

i dont know i think that is enough... it pretty much looks like even if i make hella money this summer im still gonna be broke

EDIT: i also need to put in a new rear yoak sp? that i fubared over spring break

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Before TCC:
New rear driveshaft
Swap current rear driveshaft back to front where it belongs
possibly rebuild front brakes
Swap output flange on front of t-case (current one is wrong pattern and I don't feel like trying to drill that hard ass POS to the new pattern)*
Reinforce rear bumper mounts
chain engine mounts to frame

Summer Plans:
flatbed
OBA
new front bumper
rotate rear axle
possibly rear disc brakes


* Actually accomplished this yesterday. I really needed an impact but didn't have one (and there was no room for a breaker bar), so I improvised. Put the rear case in 4wd, front case in neutral, lodged my rachet securely in my crossmember, and slowly winched the truck forward until the the forward movement of the rear tires spun the t-case enough to break the nut loose. Worked like a charm

[Chadnutz]

My junk involves more time than money since I have everything but the metal already purchased.

This summer:

Solid Axle Swap
Lincoln Lock and install Toyota rear
Kustom Front Bumper
Flat Bed

If I get Alcan 5" springs...

Used 33s
Remove Body Lift
Rock Sliders
Begin plans for an external cage

[J Cooper]

before TCC:
put in D.U.I. Distributor and get the bitch running
tune up TBI

summer:
spring over with stock CJ springs
new drive shafts
AWB
one piece rear axles/full floating axle
weld and truss rear
new 33" KMs
red neck ram... so I can use front ARB on more than just straight shots
swap back in stock tank
fix exhaust .... again
new front and rear bumpers
cage
new windshield and hinges
fix door and rear hatch hinge on hard top
paint job
............

[AgDieseler]

Mount CO2 bottle - done
New rear springs - done
New tie rod/ends - done
Change oil - done
Build TCC trophy - done:D
Pack more junk than any sane person would possibly need - never done:flipoff2:

[Gullybasher]

Hey LostIt,

Why would you, and how wouldyou: chain engine mounts to frame

[Rex]

summer plans for the mog:

-get a trailer
-new starter
-put on new tires
-change all fluids
-propane maybe
-finish flatbed
-full hydro steering

[eight]

Summer:

Make jeep wider and taller, with bigger tires, and an extra shifter.

For you who will want new 33s, mine will be for sale, 90% tread, shiny wheels too.

[BigRedFord04]

oh yeah, I forgot to mention:

new rear leaf springs to get rid of blocks
hopefully make new bumpers

[mudtoy67]

Before TCC:

Build new crossmember
build winch mount and install winch
rear bumper and taillights
mount computer solidly
wire up ALDL connector to harness
paint body and cage?

Wish I had:
"Death wobble" eliminating power steering
rear tire carrier
fat wallet

[Tariqui]

how about:

Rebuild engine
finish exocage
3/4 rear elliptical

[BMFScout]

find Job
then:
Chevy TPI swap
Fix a few dents
rock sliders, exo/endo cage
shocks that actually allow the wheels to travel
fender trimming/flares to accomodate afforementioned travel
install the soft top I have had since Christmas
smoke a bowl:flipoff2:

[Shaggy]

i forgot that i have to fix the cracks in my 9" pipe housing caused my axle wrap, also gettin' rid of the blocks and puting springs, fuel injection too if there is any money left

[Seth]

Solid Axle
New Front Cross Member
Fix Vent Window so no more leak
Replace a couple interior pieces
Shackle Flip
New rear springs
Work on front bumper more?
Get rid of check engine light
Investigate charging system and repair (batt or alt) - EDIT : put in a new alternator this morning in 25 minutes (total) after the battery slowly went down yesterday due to no charge - bless optima for having the balls to run with who knows what power for how long.
New tires eventually
Lights so I can see at night
Guess thats all.

Seth

[Fredo]

Here's my two vehicles:

Lurch:
shackle reversal
soa
35's
fuel injection
new rear bumper
winch
soft top
rear locker

The camaro:
rebuild rear axle
replace auburn diff with zexel torsen
ported heads
supercharger
rollcage
new back tires

[bigFAWKINranger]

mmm...
full width 44 front
full DOM/heimjoint steering linkage
full width 8.8 rear w detroit
possibly coil spring the rear then bobbing for 90* departure
4.56s
full cage
engine crossmember
new front driveshaft
MAYBE new motor
MAYBE manual tranny
MAYBE sell the 35s and rims, buy 36s or 37s....
.
.
.
..if interested in the 35s let me know.
4 35x12.50x15 mud kings, 95% tread, full road hazard, and a BFG mt same size... all mounted on black rims, 5 on 4.5" pattern.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Originally posted by Gullybasher
Hey LostIt,

Why would you, and how wouldyou: chain engine mounts to frame

I may have termed this wrong, but for the life of me I can't remember what its actually called. Maybe chaining down the engine? The reason I need to do this is to keep my motor mounts alive. Toyotas with 200+ crawl (I'm at 223) ratios often snap engine mounts becuase the tcase mount doesn't do much to combat the engine/tranny/tcase from movement caused by torque.

There are some aftermarket mounts out there, but most fail just as much as a stock mount, and the few that don't often vibrate you to death. So the best option for me is to weld a chain in there to allow a little movement, but not enough to allow breakage

[eight]

I ran a bolt through my motor mounts and tightened to my liking, seems jeeps with 30:1 (crawl?) ratio have the same problem.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Hell, even suzuki's are even known to break thier tcase mounts. Its just an inherent problem with inline engines (eight, you have a I6 right?). The problem with toyota's is slighty magnified by the design of the tcase mount, which basically just mounts to the bottom of the tcase, and gives little resistance to the engine rolling under torque. Eight, what does a jeep's tcase mount look like? Some people with lots of gearing never have a problem, while others can break theirs with the stock setup. Personally I just want to stop mine before I'm left driving back home from the trail with a busted motor mount.

[Shaggy]

driving with a broken motor mount sucks, especially with a 300+ HP engine and a heavy foot on the skinny pedal:D

[Seth]

Tate - you still have that kind of power? what do you have in there and what is done to it?

Also - I am finally finished with the charging sytem stuff. I ended up with a new alternator and a new serpentine belt for a grand total of 12 bucks. There was another alternator, two reciepts faxed, and at least 3 trips to the parts store in between.

Seth

[mark]

Jeeps mount an arm to the bottom of the tranny, with a tranny mount directly underneath the case and a bolt with a bushing at the end of the arm to control torque.

Lots of folks run into trouble when they modify the mounts at one end of their drive train without making a similar adjustment at the other end. For example, running poly mounts at the engine with a tired old tranny mount allows for more movement at the tranny then engine. This causes the engine mounts to absorb all the torque, rather than splitting it evenly, causing broken motor mounts or cracks where you don’t want them.

The key is balance. So if you chain the engine down, you might want to consider an outrigger on the tranny with a chain that limits it too.

-Mark

[eight]

And if you only limit it at the torque arm, the bottom of your aluminum tranny breaks off.

[Krawler68]

shouldn't have used an aluminum cased tranny...

Doug

[robertf03]

Originally posted by Krawler68
shouldn't have used an aluminum cased tranny...

Doug

so should I be worried that my sm420 to 300 adapter is made of aluminum and thats where the mount bolts to :rolleyes:


If there was a way to get an aluminum case for my d300 or sm420 and I could afford it, I'd do it in a minute.

[eight]

Yes, the aluminum tranny will go in the third round of jeep modifications. I welded it back together and its still working so I'll just see how long it lasts. And why do I have an aluminum tranny you might ask? Maybe because I have about as much money in the jeep as you do in that dana 44. After the axles and steering and brakes and wheels and tires and all the little stuff to go along with them, and selling my current tires and wheels ( and axles?) I'll be just above the 3K mark. Mine might be the only TAMOR rig that would sell for more than I've got in it.

[Shaggy]

Originally posted by Seth
Tate - you still have that kind of power? what do you have in there and what is done to it?

yup, it is a 351M bored .40 over with a larger cam, hooker super comp headers, blah blah i dont really remember... my mechanic went nuts with it... i am gonna put it on a dino this summer and see what i got... he said i am pushing 350+ but i doubt that

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Originally posted by mark

Lots of folks run into trouble when they modify the mounts at one end of their drive train without making a similar adjustment at the other end. For example, running poly mounts at the engine with a tired old tranny mount allows for more movement at the tranny then engine. This causes the engine mounts to absorb all the torque, rather than splitting it evenly, causing broken motor mounts or cracks where you don’t want them.

The key is balance. So if you chain the engine down, you might want to consider an outrigger on the tranny with a chain that limits it too.

-Mark

Most people with yotas just chain the mounts on both sides of the engine, and have no problems with the tcase mount. The rear mount is strong, its just with it being so far back once the dual cases are in, it really has a hard time helping to combat the engine rolling under torque. But if a problem ensues, I will make the modifications to solve it. Also, I'm thinking about bodylifting my truck an inch or so, and if I do this, I hope to do a drivetrain lift as well. Budbuilt had some really sweet crossmembers for this with dual tcase mounts, which will really beef things up, as well as give the truck a flat belly.