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View Full Version : Jeep Mods. Round 2.



eight
05-01-2003, 09:47 PM
Round 2 will involve bigger tires, bigger axles, lower gears, and more lift.

Tires are 35x14.5x16.5 SSR. I know, not the best choice, but they were cheap, and I'm cheap, so we'll go good together.

Wheels will probably be of the hummer variety. Will cut the runflat or maybe make new ones. I don't think there'd be much room between the magnesium runflat and tire and it would make them get cut easy.

Front axle is a Chevy dana 44 HD from Cody's junk pile. 4.10 gears. 69" wide. I replaced all seals, 1 bearing, and both u-joints. I bought a badass $13 sand blaster from Wal-Mart and cleaned it up good and painted it. The carrier was sitting on the table and some welding rods found their way inside. I've got power steering with a slow ratio and I'll turn up the pressure. I may have to go with hydro assist. I ground the lip off the bottom of the housing so it was even with the diff cover, then kept going untill I hit the bottom bolts. Probably only about 3/8" but it is smooth. I built a little diff cover skid plate out of some 3/8" thick, 12" pipe. High steer arms are 1" thick and have a 1/2" spacer under them, I think this will clear the springs. Ordered some QA1 heims from Jegs.

Rear axle is a dana 60 ff with 30 splines. 67" wide. Andy brought it from Louisiana to TCC and thanks to Nick for bringing it back here. Not sure what I'll do for brakes. It will have a Detroit Electrac. OK, I lied, it will be welded. Gears are 4.10. I just got it today.

For springs, I will probably combine my rears with a set of YJ springs I've got laying around. Front axle will be moved 1" forward. Shackles will be 1" longer at 4" eye to eye. No reverse shackles. Plan on eventually doing TJ flares. Front shocks will be the longest cheap shocks I can find. So far, I've found 15" travel procomp but haven't checked skyjacker yet. Rear shocks will be my 11" travel current front shocks mounted at an angle inwards.

Welder and air will also be finished. Also will build rocker guards.

eight
05-04-2003, 08:46 PM
This is about where the tire will sit with hummer wheels and 2" spacers. That's about 9" of tread outside the body. I think most TJs stick out 7"?

Doug Krebs
05-04-2003, 09:20 PM
damn those are some nice tires...

eight
05-04-2003, 09:48 PM
Not as nice as these. Just have to wait for them to get burnt down enough by a fawkin F-250 on the highway. Even our forklift is 4wd.

Seth
05-05-2003, 10:55 AM
why run spacers, and what the hell is going on with tires? all i know is one set us dougs old ones, but what about nurning some down?

Seth

eight
05-05-2003, 11:11 AM
I would either want to run spacers or recenter the wheels. It looks like recentering would be cheaper and better. I just don't want it to be as narrow as the hummer wheels would make it. And if I used stock back spaced hummer wheels, I have to cut off the stock steering arms. Would be fine, but someday I may buy a truck to swap the 44 for a 60 and sell the truck, and I'll need the stock arms. And I'd like the hubs a little more protected.

First tires will be Dougs. Second ones will be those 38s that just got mounted on my little brother's superduty yesterday. I'm planning ahead. I figure with my driving the SSRs will last almost 2 years. And the 38s should be worn down enough that he'll want to replace them by that time.

eight
05-08-2003, 12:31 PM
Well. For the second time now that I've wanted to go get some hummer wheels, the guy only has 1 in stock. Wheels are $50 each. Mag runflats are $25 each. Rubber ones are free. The rubber ones are better in that they're not as likely to cut the tire, right? And I can cut the runflat part off and just use the bead lock with the rubber ones too?

Anybody know where else I can get these wheels localishly? Like in Houston, or San Antonio area.

Cajun
05-08-2003, 01:17 PM
I've never heard of anyone having a problem with the Mg runflats cutting the tire. Of course, you'd never have to worry about the rubber ones doing that, but they are CONSIDERABLY heavier than the Mg ones--I have a set of both. I guess that the extra weight could be partially attributed to the 12 bolt wheels, but I wouldn't think that would be the case. If weight is a concern go Mg, or cut the rubber ones down.

Or, sell the rubber ones on Ebay and buy the PVC beadlocks from USA6x6.

Krawler68
05-08-2003, 01:29 PM
>> >5 hummer rims and 4 hummer tires, new hardware and o-rings for rims -
>>$350.00 takes it all.

In San Antone...


hotrod069@mail.ev1.net

eight
05-08-2003, 01:57 PM
Thanks, I sent him an email. But I think that set was for sale on Colorado K5 and sold, maybe not.

StevenAg03
05-08-2003, 04:50 PM
are you even gonna be able to put the runflats inside the 35" SSR's? arent the runflats designed around a 37" tire?

eight
05-08-2003, 05:23 PM
I will cut the runflats off, as mentioned in earlier posts. But they would fit.

aggielr
05-08-2003, 07:01 PM
don't try and grind on the magnesium ones

robertf03
05-08-2003, 07:10 PM
Originally posted by aggielr
don't try and grind on the magnesium ones

it'll just glaze the grinding disc since its a non ferrous metal ;) .

that stuffs gotta be a lot hotter than that before it goes up.

BTW. Aluminum and steel (especially steel wool) do the same thing, didnt you experiment with fire when you were a kid :flipoff2:

aggielr
05-08-2003, 08:02 PM
yea i did, but i was readin somewhere that someone was grindin it and it went up in flames and they weren't expecting it and didn't get to the fire ext. fast enough

CRaSHnBuRN
05-08-2003, 09:23 PM
Originally posted by robertf03


didnt you experiment with fire when you were a kid :flipoff2:

I say keep a couple of chunks of the magnesium for the camp fire at the next trip. I always wondered what a pound of that stuff burnin would be like considering how cool little shavings of it was.

God I use to love blowin **** up when I was a kid. I was a little pyromaniac.

Cajun
05-08-2003, 10:05 PM
You can grind on it safely, but I'd stay away from the torch.;) Ti does the same thing. I've had several people that install our products in towers talk about Ti dust flashing...really nice blue flame that dances across the vessel wall. Creepy if you're not expecting it.:D

robertf03
05-08-2003, 10:11 PM
Originally posted by LostIt


I say keep a couple of chunks of the magnesium for the camp fire at the next trip. I always wondered what a pound of that stuff burnin would be like considering how cool little shavings of it was.



I think Brandon's got a big chunk of magnesium in his shop that will never see any use :D

eight
05-09-2003, 03:00 PM
I was planning on just using the sawzall, then smooth with a grinder. And I won't throw out the magnesium, it's got to be fun stuff.

That guy just emailed me back that he still has the wheels and tires. Maybe I'll go get them after I wake up tomorrow afternoon.

eight
05-09-2003, 03:02 PM
And I'll be working outside.

I've heard of grain bins exploding. The fine dust from grain is highly explosive.

eight
05-16-2003, 01:12 PM
Got a new inspection so now the jeep's ready to be cut apart and I've got a year to make it legal again. Even has a working parking brake. I'll have to undo all the extra vacuum lines the make it run right again.

Got the front axle together finally. One of the plastic nobs on the hubs was broken where a pin goes through. Had to drill some new holes in it and now the dial doesn't line up with "Lock" and "Free". But it works.

Then unloaded the rear axle and removed the broken bolts. Thought I was gonna have to go kick Cajun's ass cause both hubs wanted to spin like it had a limited slip. But then I got only 1 to turn. I guess it was just stuck, so he's safe.

mark
05-16-2003, 03:34 PM
Originally posted by eight
Thought I was gonna have to go kick Cajun's ass ...

So just how big a boy are you?

-Roy D. Mercer

eight
05-17-2003, 12:51 AM
Maybe should hav thrown in a :flipoff2: . Probably couldn't even do it with the help of SKS.

eight
05-22-2003, 11:24 PM
That axle did have a fawking limited slip. It just had no limiting left to it. I was still able to weld it up good. Just used some 3/8" plate cut 5/8" wide and 1.5" long between the side gear and carrier. Seems like the axle sat for a while and then was fixed up, then abandoned again soon. It's now looking nice and pretty in flat black with a differential guard and some shaving to match the front. Got about 5/8" off this one. And it's a bitch to get those ribets out of yj spring clamps.

Cajun
05-23-2003, 09:15 AM
Glad the axle is working out for you. I'm also relieved to hear that no one wants to kick my ass. :flipoff2:

Oh, you're avoiding grain dust because it's highly explosive but you're going to grind magnesium? What exactly do you think that does when it flashes?

eight
05-24-2003, 12:05 AM
Almost pulled a doug. On the narrow tracks last wheeling, I showed my dad why I needed bigger axles. I fell off a ledge into a rut with the driver's side and felt the passenger side come off the ground and then go back down. Wouldn't have been any damage as I was up against a ledge on the other side and it would have only gone about a foot. And it was fun.

Krawler68
05-24-2003, 01:45 PM
Originally posted by eight
Almost pulled a doug. And it was fun.

see...another person sees the light.

I think my problem is I feel the tire come up and then settle, then I figure everything is OK, and continue on the same line... :D

Doug

eight
05-26-2003, 07:43 PM
Got the rear in. Still flexy. I used 8 leafs. What you don't notice is that the back sits 3" higher than the front. The pics about 8" of stuffing. Somehow my picture of the other side and one of the underside left the camera. That's ramped on some 32" high horses that are on a hump.

eight
05-26-2003, 07:46 PM
Testing for axlewrap. Didn't have any.

eight
06-02-2003, 12:32 AM
Jeeps mostly done and back in College Station. Still need front brake hoses, a u-bolt, jam nuts, shocks, extend front driveshaft, and misalignment washers. Anybody got some extra misalignment washers laying around?

Steering ended up with the tie rod above the knuckle and the drag link hooked to a high steer arm. Don't know exactly what that's called. Got the 35s on and mounted on ugly 7" wheels in the front and 9.75" ones in back. The welded front diff is hardly noticable on dirt and still fine when I tried it on the highway. Then I lost my rear drive shaft flat towing it up here with it disconnected. But I went back 20 miles and found it in the middle of the highway.

No more cute little scrambly, this thing looks mean. I'll put a pic tomorrow. Inside edge of tires are 2" inside the fenders.

Note to self: top off front diff fluid.

eight
06-02-2003, 07:33 PM
Here's some of the axle shaving on the rear. Took the lip down even with that little hump in the middle. .25" less than the AMC 20 was.

eight
06-02-2003, 07:35 PM
Lift turned out to be about 8" I think. May adjust the height some after it settles.

eight
06-02-2003, 07:37 PM
Moved front axle forward 1". Looks like the rear moved back too but all I did was swap to yj front springs + some of my old leafs. Rear drive shaft length worked out fine because of the more lift and longer pinion.

Another note to self: notch skid plate.

eight
06-02-2003, 07:46 PM
I got the drive shaft back in with a new joint. Did some other little ****. And ran all over town finding parts today. Still needed are 3/4" jam nuts which should be in at Ace wednesday, front brake hoses made tomorrow at Bryan Hose and Gasket if the fittings come in, and misalignment washers. Anybody know a source for the washers in town? I might have to make some. In that case, anybody got a drill, 3/4" bit, and chop saw I can use? I could get by without the chop saw. Trying to finish before llano this weekend. And a rear axle seal is leaking now, I think it's the one I replaced too.

Chadnutz
06-02-2003, 08:19 PM
If it becomes an emergency you can send your crap with detailed instructions to my work via our African buddy Emmanuel.

eight
06-02-2003, 08:26 PM
Yep, maybe put him and you to some good use. My idea for making the washers involves big lug nuts, a 3/4" drill bit, and maybe a chop saw or something to cut it shorter.

WTF, I cant' find where the breather hooks to on the front axle. It's not there and there's no hole for one I think. Anybody know where its supposed to be? I've been getting parts by calling it an axle from a 77 K20.

Chadnutz
06-02-2003, 11:02 PM
The only use Emmanuel will be to you is in transporting the stuff. ;) I actually let him play with the welder once. It was quite entertaining. He's learning a lot of stuff out there though.

fbronco86
06-02-2003, 11:37 PM
dang ryan looks alright

eight
06-03-2003, 04:25 PM
Looks like the best $2 I ever spent on it. Dark grey with little metalic blings in it. I think I like the 16.5x 7 wheels. So what if the tires wear more in the middle, it's a $75 set. Anybody got 2 more of them? I think they come from a ford. They say Firestone and Canada on them. And they have a safety bead. I got to use my welder today too. Maybe finish the air after I do some homework while its hot. My leg is bleeding.

Seth
06-03-2003, 09:28 PM
i say leave the tires just like they are - narrow in front, wide in back.....dont ask just think.

eight
06-03-2003, 10:06 PM
Me think if I air down the rears much below 12 psi I'll lose a bead and it's a bitch to reseat them.

eight
06-05-2003, 10:27 PM
I got some front shocks today. I stopped by Xtream offroad looking for misalignment bushings (they even knew what they were) but they didn't have any. I ended up building my own. They had some 14" travel BDS shocks in stock so I bought a pair for $25 each. Nice people too.

I turned up the pressure and volume in the steering pump. Turn the wheel with my pinky finger now. Here's some links with info on this. WTOR (http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html) and Weed (http://www.off-road.com/~jweed/pwrstr.htm)

eight
06-06-2003, 02:39 PM
Dammit. I just burnt out the rectifier bridge on my welder, I think, probably just 1 diode, smokin. Guess I'll head to radio shack and see how big of doides I can find. Any other place in town that might sell that stuff?

Extended the front drive shaft but then it died when I was tacking up the shock mounts. Must remember, low duty cycle.

jerryg79
06-06-2003, 04:02 PM
try midstate electronics down on texas at the bend in bryan

eight
06-06-2003, 06:28 PM
That's what radio shack said too. But I was cruisin and thinkin, and I thought, my dad has a 3 month out of warrenty dead 225 amp miller AC/DC cracker box. There must be some big diodes in there and I'm sure they're not the reason its dead. Have to look next time I go home. I did some testing and in fact, I have a shorted out negitive diode. I did find some 70 amp diodes at O'rielley but they're $11 each, I need 6, and I'd still have to build some type of heat sink. And I doubt the diodes I had were really 50 amp like I thought.

eight
03-21-2004, 11:06 PM
Well I guess these go here.

eight
03-21-2004, 11:06 PM
.

eight
03-21-2004, 11:07 PM
..

eight
03-21-2004, 11:10 PM
Some might say I should chip the slag? Notice the spring's not right.

eight
03-21-2004, 11:12 PM
Something's missing. Guess I'll have to steal some from Tate's parts truck.

uglyota
03-21-2004, 11:13 PM
Originally posted by eight
Some might say I should chip the slag?
Highly overrated...leave it Ugly!

Looks pretty sweet Ryan! I didn't have a clue what you were talking about when you were describing it last night, but now I see! :flipoff2:

Why didn't you tie the cage to the factory bar?

Shaggy
03-21-2004, 11:15 PM
he wants to be able to put his top on

uglyota
03-21-2004, 11:17 PM
gotcha

eight
03-21-2004, 11:21 PM
I intended to tie the seats into the cage, even built part of the stuff, but then I looked at the seats.... So I'll be getting new seats then I'll tie in, along with shoulder belts. I do have a lap belt in the driver's side, mounted to the floor.

It can't be welded to the factory bar because hard top goes there. I'll probably make something to bolt between the two when the tops off.

If anybody feels I should add something, speak up.

How about what seats I should get? New or, know a junkyard that will sell some cheap? Doggerts wanted something rediculous for these nice chevy tracker seats I liked, so I told em they could rot like the other two sets they had.

What yall think of these cheap poly ones with vinyl cover?
http://www.jegs.com/photos/8208001B.gif

BigRedFord04
03-21-2004, 11:24 PM
got a pic from farther away? DOM or otherwise?

uglyota
03-21-2004, 11:29 PM
Originally posted by BigRedFord04
DOM or otherwise?
uh...otherwise :D

eight
03-21-2004, 11:40 PM
Mostly 1.5" pipe. That equals 1.9" OD. Supposed to be some better grade than normal pipe, all I know is that normal pipe bends prettier. Theres some 1.25" pipe = 1.66" OD in there too. All bending was done on a bender my dad made to hook to the ironworker. Homemade dies too, and no we aint got no lathe. Bends aren't perfect, it does real good on the 1.66" and smaller OD stuff. Flattens the inside of the bend some on the 1.9" OD. So if anybody's wantin a die to bend 1" tube or such on a JD or such, I could tell you how to make it.

uglyota
03-22-2004, 11:01 AM
You might price APC "racing" seats at Vatozone
They look a lot like the summit ones but might be a lot cheaper.
And they're "Already Pieces of Crap":D

fbronco86
03-22-2004, 12:19 PM
you need to buy seats with more padding in them. those seats are not made to sit in all day long.

uglyota
03-22-2004, 12:49 PM
get a roll of duct tape and fix the ones you've got :flipoff2:

eight
08-16-2004, 07:16 PM
Well, just to say I haven't abandoned this project, the t4 is now resting with all my other old jeep drivetrain parts. Its being replaced with a np435. And while everything is out I'm putting 2 stics and the 300 is clocked 1" higher than the 435 bottom. And I'm to build a new bad dood skid plate. I'm taking the no aftermarket adapters approach. Only high precision tools used so far are a drill press, high powered dremel, and a plasma. The 300 to 435 adapting part is done, and I just got the bellhousing bolted onto the 435. Its gonna be 2" longer so I'll have to call up high angle and order new driveshafts.

uglyota
08-16-2004, 10:04 PM
...so I'll have to call up high angle and order new driveshafts.
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

Graystroke
08-16-2004, 11:50 PM
Its gonna be 2" longer so I'll have to call up high angle and order new driveshafts.

yeah, what happend to the square tube DS's..or fabing one up yourself...I've lost all respect........
next thing you know you will be doing commercials for Autozone! :flipoff2:

uglyota
08-17-2004, 12:13 AM
"I go to autozone for their lifetime warranty u-joints!"

eight
08-21-2004, 01:29 PM
Got the twin stics done. And built some shift nobs that i hope are stainless steel, haven't rusted yet. I don't get to work on it much cause kurt got a jeep and the little F-350 broke.

eight
08-23-2004, 11:05 PM
Well, now everything's broke, except the jeep, which would be ok. F350, Dodge, Excursion, Boat, etc... dam kids..... And I guess jeep's gettin 38s, so it'll be broken too. Be a month before it makes in back to College Station.

stx4wheeler
08-24-2004, 11:18 AM
[QUOTE=eight] And I guess jeep's gettin 38s, so it'll be broken too.

damn kopecki is gonna be abusing the u joints for life program with 38's under that bad dood. :D

eight
08-24-2004, 09:31 PM
Oh I'm allready abusing it. Kurt stold my spares and put dried out ones in the boxes, he figured I could just go trade em in.

eight
09-16-2004, 03:09 PM
The dodge 435 has the right output shaft size and spline count, and also the right indexing hole in the adapter for the 300. But the shaft was about 3/4" too long so I cut that off. After the splines, the shaft necks up bigger, and the d300 input was now bottoming on it, which necessitated a 3/16" spacer. The bolt pattern in the adapter was wrong so I had to redrill it, that cast steel drills real easy. Then it bolted up, plenty easy enough.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/pts1.jpg

Now to the engine end. The input shaft was ~2" too long, and the input bearing retainer too big. I went to J&P and traded them the dodge input shaft and bearing retainer and $15 for ford ones. The ford parts bolted right in to the dodge transmission. I used a novak pilot bushing just like one would when swapping in a ford transmission. I later found out that you are supposed to remove the factory pilot bushing. Since my transmission now had a ford bearing retainer, that part lined up in the jeep sr4 bellhousing, and I had to drill 4 new holes to bolt the transmission to it. One is real close to the edge, and I had to use a 3/8" bolt, because the 1/2" I used on the others wouldn't have cleared. Also had to gring one side of the head of the 3/8" bolt off so it wouldn't hit the side of the bellhousing. I have no picture of this, so here's some fish.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/misc/fish4.jpg

Twin stick was fairly easy. I just copied CJs.

Skid plate is made of 3/16" plate steel. I used a big ugly metal bending machine to put the 2" drop in it. Then I set it up in place and noticed that the transmission hung lower than the mount, so the skidplate hit it before the mount. A little persuasion from a 12 lb hammer got it to clear. There are 3, 1" bars run across it on the inside for support. Two just before and after the transmission mount, and one more at the back. I have also eliminated the torque arm. Skid plate bolts on from the side with 6, 3/8" bolts. I jacked the jeep up about a foot under the skid plate, and it did not bow. That little thing in the middle is a peice of 3/8" plate, it has two big holes in it for the trans mount bolt heads, and is there just to protect them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/4353.jpg

Had to do some cutting on the floor to make stuff fit.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/4351.jpg

I think the rear driveshaft is gonna be short enough, but I will have to extend the front one, so I brought some special driveshaft making pipe with me. Also gonna have to do somethin about that floor. As you can see above, the trans shifter comes out about 3" below the AC stuff and way forward, so that will be a creative one to buid. Gonna have to build new exhaust, it will be a single 2.5", with a long glass pack.

eight
12-06-2004, 02:25 PM
Well, since it kept eating 258s, lets see how well it plays with this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/360.jpg
And some of this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/infectionparts.jpg

TxCruzr
12-06-2004, 02:40 PM
I think you have 2 too many cylinders....thats just me though :flipoff2:

uglyota
12-06-2004, 02:41 PM
I think it's sexay!

savvyaggie
12-06-2004, 02:47 PM
did u ever get a throttle body?

eight
12-06-2004, 03:15 PM
did u ever get a throttle body?

No, but I'm supposed to have one lined up, but its in beaumont.

eight
12-06-2004, 08:12 PM
I now get a discount at Napa.....

chevsu
12-06-2004, 09:25 PM
what are you going to do with that brake controller. going to pull some bad dude goosenecks with the jeep?

eight
12-25-2004, 11:35 PM
Well, 360's sitting in jeep bolted to bellhousing. But that's about it. Turns out this Christmas and snow stuff has been distracting me. Still gotta finish motor mounts, put fuel pump/lines, and play with wires and sensors. Then build exhaustes and intake if it runs.

BMFScout
12-26-2004, 03:19 AM
how did your dad feel about the 360?

fbronco86
12-26-2004, 03:55 AM
how did your dad feel about the 360?

I think he dad has been telling him that he needed two more cylinders in that jeep for a long time.

BMFScout
12-26-2004, 05:07 AM
but he was concerned that his dad might feel it was a little ridiculous that this was the 7th motor to go in the CJ... :flipoff2:

eight
01-03-2005, 12:12 AM
He didn't seem to really care, and its only the 4th motor. I think he thinks I won't get all that wire/computer stuff to work.

I put some more peices on it and cut up the harness today, lots o wires removed. Hope I got it all right. Fuel lines are hooked up but no pump yet, distributer modified and installed, some sensors installed, motor mounts done.

Anybody know if the air cleaner housing from a carbed SBC will fit the TB on a TBI?

Useful information you may never need to know: An O2 sensor screws into a d44 ball joint nut, and the ERG banjo fittings on a SBAMC are 9/16" fine thread.

agjohn02
01-03-2005, 02:48 AM
nice work on the o2 sensor bungs. i paid $8 for mine. need a fuel pump?

eight
01-03-2005, 01:55 PM
Allready got a fuel pump, just gotta install and wire it.

savvyaggie
01-03-2005, 04:29 PM
He didn't seem to really care, and its only the 4th motor. I think he thinks I won't get all that wire/computer stuff to work.

I put some more peices on it and cut up the harness today, lots o wires removed. Hope I got it all right. Fuel lines are hooked up but no pump yet, distributer modified and installed, some sensors installed, motor mounts done.

Anybody know if the air cleaner housing from a carbed SBC will fit the TB on a TBI?

Useful information you may never need to know: An O2 sensor screws into a d44 ball joint nut, and the ERG banjo fittings on a SBAMC are 9/16" fine thread.


i have an air cleaner housing for the throttle body, you can have it.... I will leave it at the house and you can get it when you bring the minibike..or I can stop my your house...

agjohn02
01-03-2005, 09:20 PM
i tried your little o2 bung trick today. yes, while it does screw in, as i suspected, since the sensor is metric the d44 nut is too big. if i were you i wouldnt torque it too much or it'll strip the threads.

eight
01-05-2005, 09:19 AM
Its torqued good. Yes it was loose. I suspect the copper gasket will still stop leaks.

I'll take that offer Jordan.

eight
01-14-2005, 01:21 AM
Well, it shoul work, but don't. Got no spark or fuel. Fuel pump works and injectors fire if I jump them. All the "KEY ON" voltages at the computer are correct. I tried changing the wires from the distributer around, checked all the grounds, tried it with the neutral saftey switch grounded and ungrounded.

I've got the orange battery wire hooked to constant power, the pink/black ignition wire to switched power, and the purple crank signal wire hooked to the crank wire on the starter solenoid.

I think the problem's probably got something to do with the distributer. I am supposed to ground the black wire from it, and hook the other two to the ignition module?

Got any idea what might be the problem?

agjohn02
01-14-2005, 02:51 AM
http://www.justinternationals.org/Binder-Bench/showthread.php?t=1291

BigRedFord04
01-14-2005, 02:06 PM
we had the same problem w/ a 304 i was helping work on up here. i think we did end up grounding the black wire and it worked.

robertf03
01-14-2005, 02:46 PM
we had the same problem w/ a 304 i was helping work on up here. i think we did end up grounding the black wire and it worked.

then it was a coincidence. There is nothing in the distributor to ground.

The duraspark ICM doesn't ground through the case since ford likes to mount them on plastic inner fenders. Instead it has a 3rd wire in the pickup plug and wires the ground into the distributor housing. if you chop that wire short and just ground the black wire coming off the duraspark ICM then that 3rd wire on the distributor pigtail is officially worthless. Since the HEI ICM grounds through the screw holes and you need a heat sink that is likely to be bolted to something metal there is no need to run that wire.

eight
01-14-2005, 06:18 PM
It runs now. Gota dam oil leak on the back of the valve cover that I mounted alot of **** to. Now I've got to put the electric fans on so I can drive it. I'll fix the oil leak in CS. Hopefully build exhausts tomorrow, may start today, but there's a Kevin Fowler concert in Kocuisko tonight, and I'm likely to get drunk.....

eight
01-16-2005, 01:39 AM
you need a heat sink that is likely to be bolted to something metal

hmm, heat sink, guess I should make one.

Got about not much done today. Fans are on. I hooked an unfused relay power wire and ground wire to the two connected terminals on the relay, made smoke. Then me and Kurt built him a spare tire carrier.

eight
01-17-2005, 12:38 AM
Just got to drive it, dam fast, hesitates.

agjohn02
01-17-2005, 12:47 AM
ill race ya...

eight
01-17-2005, 12:52 AM
Though you may have more power I've got less weight. After I get the custom chip, we'll think about it.

eight
01-20-2005, 06:46 PM
Whoohoooo it runs like its supposed to!!!! Turns out if you hook the distributer vacuum line to a 1/4" bolt instead of the distrubuter, it works better.

robertf03
01-20-2005, 07:03 PM
how is the idle? and did you ever figure out what size the injectors are?

eight
01-21-2005, 11:03 AM
The idle is still kinda odd. Most of the time it idles too high (~1000), and sometimes it idles right, and sometimes it don't idle. I think 700 rpm would be a good idle speed. I'm thinkin the CTS might be the cause, I'll change that out today. And I guess that stuff about AMC motors and GM knock sensors not liking eachother wasn't true. Only other thing it does is sometimes at light throttle it just cuts out for half a second, but I'll worry about that if its still there after the chip and I fix the TPS connector.

I'll go get those injector numbers when I'm done with breakfast.

eight
08-15-2005, 08:01 PM
The overall condition of jeep now is: Runs, with questionable highway driveability.

Started fixing misc body damages.
Got new 4 core radiator now. Makes jeep motor stay cool.
Also found a vacuum leak between the adapter and manifold, fixed it. Runs about the same.
Got 4x4 working again. Put a drive flange on one side, and made a fancy new hub dial thing on the other. Remove a 1/2" bolt, and it locks. Screw the 1/2" bolt back in, and it unlocks. I'd take a picture, but I'm not seeming to find my camera. Found the passenger side u-joint is dead. Somebody find me a bigger axle dammit.

eight
08-16-2005, 10:22 PM
So, what's the suspension joint to get now? RE, Currie, or maybe something new and cool I haven't heard about yet?

agjohn02
08-16-2005, 10:37 PM
grader ball

uglyota
08-17-2005, 09:31 AM
Blue torch has "rock bushings" and 1 1/4" heims. Polyperformance has uniballs and flexxx joints.

Also


--AOR Orbit Eye Joint
--Price $69.95
--Flex Degree 38*
--Size 2.5 inch
--Width- 3 3/4inch
--Ball Joint "precision-machined, cold-rolled steel ball"
--Cartirdge/Race "molybdenum-based nylon socket"
-- No Zirk fitting
--Uses, Leaf springs
--Issues, ??
Molybdenum Propertise

--AllPro Johnny Joint
--Price $38. each
--Flex Degree 30*
--Size O.D. 2.5 inch
--Width- ??
--Gets there Joints from Currie,
BUT they drill the ball out to except a 5/8 shackle Bolt with Zirk fittg thus Lubricating the bolt inside the ball joint to not rust.
--Plus they Cross Drill the Ball to allow grease to Enter the ball joint.
--Use a C-clip on One end to hold joint together.
--Cartridge/race joint material still unknown
--BAll Joint material , UNKNOWN
--sells about 50 a month
- reports no failues with joint, search Board for feedback
--NEED A PRESS TO assemble
--USes, Leaf Shackle Pivot
--Issues/complaints: Difficult to install or rebuild NOT a SCREW Cap

X-Joint "Rod End
--Price--> $34.95 each
--Flex degrees ??*
--Size--> 2 5/8
--Width- ??
--Nickel Plated Ball stress proof ball
--DOM shell with tapped hole for zerk
--Cartidge/races-->Oil Injected Nylon Races (Minimal Wear)
--Poly cup with integrated grease passage, zerk fitting.
--9/16" Bore
--.188 Wall Dom Outer tube
--2 5/8" Wide at bolt bore flanges.
--Zinc Plated threaded retainer, washer and snap ring
--Stainless Steel Set Screw
--Uses: Control arm,
--Issues: ?? Not a SCREW Cap

Rubicon Express joint
originally designed to replace the heim joints
--Price $32. 2inch Flex 22* degrees -for track bar upper control arm
--Price $39. 2 5/8 inch 18* degrees - for Lower control arm
--Ball joint polished chrome ball, no specs Oval/Egg shape not true sphere
--Uses screw cap and C-clip
--Cartridge/Race UHMW nylon
--Tube Zerk fitting
--requires tool to tighten
--Uses: Control arms, track bars, Jeeps
--Issues: ?? Buy tightening tool $17.


--Currie Joint Same as Allpro
--Price $
--Flex Degrees 30*
--size 2 5/8 inch
--Uses screw in caps to hold joint together
--Cartridge/race "high88" urethane,like ploy bushings
--Ball Joint, 4340 Chromoly
--requires tool to fasten
--Uses: Rod end, Control arms, Jeeps

Edit add From "TRD":
Flexxx Joint
-$39.95
-2 5/8" Mounting Width
-9/16" Bolt
-Flex degrees 22.5*
-Wear Resistant
-Self Lubricating
-Greasable (to keep dirt out)
-Nilatron Races
-Hard Chrome Plated Ball
-Fully Rebuildable
Nilatron Propertise

I think AOR for their races and Flexxx Joint to be the best according to Specs

EDIT ADD : INformation THANKS goes to ravencr1
also found at http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=301595

tigweld
08-17-2005, 03:03 PM
seems like it's personal preference or for different applications,their all pretty close to the same in design and quality from what I've seen, just not the same in difficulty of assembly.

eight
08-20-2005, 08:09 AM
I think I like the Allpro ones. About the same price as all the others, greasable and lots of misalignment. It's gonna be a real triangulated 3 link (with panhard) and bushings on one end so the joint in the upper link will need lots of misalignment, almost thinking of putting joints in both ends on that link. I think St. John built a simular suspension, but I haven't looked at the pics yet. Now that I have interweb I'll have to take a lookie.

I cut most of the old front suspension off last night, should have the F-150 springs on by end of today. I'm gonna do some grinding on the axle housing and inboard the springs 1" per side from where they are now which is 2" outboarded from stock location but the spring will be 0.5" wider so the center will really only be 0.75" in from where it is now or still outboarded 1.25" from stock but the stock springs were 2" so the inside of these springs will be 0.75" out from where the inside of the stock springs were so a normal shackle mounted through the top of the frame with a small spacer on the inside of the spring end will work instead of the slider box I was thinking of. Tu comprende?

BMFScout
08-20-2005, 09:08 AM
ryan, douche your box.

eight
08-20-2005, 10:35 PM
OK its douched.

And I made a chadnutz amount of progress on jeep today. I'd forgotten the fun of building backwardzly-crooked stuff in order to make a crooked jeep drive straight, and now building stuff straight off the crooked stuff which will make it drive crooked untill I build the rear suspension which will make it drive good and straight like a good vehicle that hadn't fell off a cliff should.

eight
08-22-2005, 11:35 PM
Suspension is done. Both center pins were broken but that's kind of normal. But I don't remember the ubolts ever getting loose and they were all bent. So now I get to buy new bigger ones. Front's sitting about 1" higher than the back now, or 2.25" higher than it was, we'll see how it is in a month or so and maybe remove a leaf. The front spring eyes are now about 5" closer to the frame than before. And the shackles are only 1/2" lower than the spring hangers were.

agjohn02
08-22-2005, 11:41 PM
by new suspension, i thought you were gonna do something cool.

eight
08-23-2005, 12:05 AM
Cool stuff's for the ass end. The front was in more need of replacing.

eight
10-03-2005, 06:11 PM
Here's the front suspension pictures. Much more clearance than before. It now sits about 1" higher than it used to, plus whatever the tires added.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/newfrontsuspension3.jpg
Notice the custom fender enlargening, and the spot where the old spring hanger was, no I haven't ground it smooth yet, but I've thought about it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/newfrontsuspension5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/newfrontsuspension4.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/newfrontsuspension2.jpg

eight
10-04-2005, 05:07 PM
New toys.
http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/images/PORCCJJ.jpg

AggieTJ2007
10-04-2005, 05:12 PM
those are nice, what brand are they?

Shaggy
10-04-2005, 05:13 PM
what are they?... am i dumb

eight
10-04-2005, 05:24 PM
Summit Machine.

They are joints, for welding pipe to.

Matt Conlee
10-04-2005, 05:38 PM
they look like RE

agjohn02
10-04-2005, 05:39 PM
orbit eyes.

http://www.aor4x4.com/orbit-eyepoly-eye.htm

can you weld to those? i figured they were oil impregnated or nylon and they wouldnt go well with heat.

AggieTJ2007
10-04-2005, 05:39 PM
They are all the same design

BMFScout
10-04-2005, 05:45 PM
4 links and a panhard? wait, that is two too many, 6 link? :gigem:

Shaggy
10-04-2005, 05:45 PM
damn those are cool... how much can i get a set for

StevenAg03
10-04-2005, 05:45 PM
you going to do one of those nifty 6-links? :flipoff2:

Shaggy
10-04-2005, 05:46 PM
and why did you get 12... wouldnt you just need 8

eight
10-04-2005, 05:46 PM
Think harder Jimmy, that only requires 10 joints.


You disassemble them to weld. The caps are threaded I think.

BMFScout
10-04-2005, 05:47 PM
what are you talking about, dumbass!

Shaggy
10-04-2005, 05:47 PM
im confused still

agjohn02
10-04-2005, 05:51 PM
a leaf spring 4 link?

BMFScout
10-04-2005, 05:52 PM
4 link and a watts linkage.

eight
10-04-2005, 05:56 PM
4 link and a watts linkage.

Finally got it.

BMFScout
10-04-2005, 06:12 PM
I heard that doesn't work.

agjohn02
10-04-2005, 06:20 PM
i dont understand why you need both.

eight
10-04-2005, 06:44 PM
Well, I don't have room for a triangle 4 link because I don't like building exhaust again. And Scott says 3 links going forward isn't enough so I put a 4th. But because of no triangle I need a panhard which St. John says is better. But Scott says a normal panhard will break so I put an extra. This is the best of both types.

TxCruzr
10-04-2005, 06:50 PM
There was a cruiser awhile back that had a watts linkage. Really neat and stable but not so flexy. Granted he had huge tires and not alot of room so he might have limited it. It looks kind of complicated to get it setup right and be strong. Any perticular reason your going that way or just want to give it a shot? If anyone can make it work, your crazy polish ass can.

Doug Krebs
10-04-2005, 06:58 PM
Well, I don't have room for a triangle 4 link because I don't like building exhaust again. And Scott says 3 links going forward isn't enough so I put a 4th. But because of no triangle I need a panhard which St. John says is better. But Scott says a normal panhard will break so I put an extra. This is the best of both types.

You're going link happy because of exhaust? Something about that seems wrong with that :flipoff2:

eight
10-04-2005, 07:02 PM
Crazy Douggy. You talk the mill into making a 465-465 adapter for you yet?

Doug Krebs
10-04-2005, 07:17 PM
no, but you should see the amount of 1" plate I have. You need some?

eight
10-04-2005, 07:28 PM
Not sure what I'd do with it. I can find a use.

fbronco86
10-04-2005, 07:50 PM
no, but you should see the amount of 1" plate I have. You need some?

Hey I might need some of that plate for this new project i am working on :flipoff2:

BMFScout
10-04-2005, 09:44 PM
I saw these girls that were "so so" looking at the airport bar last Friday, they were talking to this "Mike" looking dude. I thought to myself, I bet those b!tches are in pharmecutical sales...

Sharpe
11-14-2005, 11:35 PM
Leaf springs to coils! Nice comparison.

bburris
11-14-2005, 11:49 PM
Good job Captain Obvious.

BMFScout
11-15-2005, 12:14 PM
still doing the watts linkage?

Shaggy
11-15-2005, 06:26 PM
done

eight
11-20-2005, 11:28 PM
The lower links really do weigh about 50 lbs each without joints. This stuff's gonna weigh quite a bit more than the leafs did. It's moving along. I just don't work as fast as in my younger days. Got all the dam brackets made and tacked on.

mudtoy67
11-20-2005, 11:34 PM
There was a cruiser awhile back that had a watts linkage. Really neat and stable but not so flexy. Granted he had huge tires and not alot of room so he might have limited it. It looks kind of complicated to get it setup right and be strong. Any perticular reason your going that way or just want to give it a shot? If anyone can make it work, your crazy polish ass can.

I think his lack of flex was he was running a radius arm setup, not a four link. The watts link was pretty trick.

uglyota
11-20-2005, 11:48 PM
I know I'm dumb, but I don't see how a watts linkage makes any sense in rockcrawling.
Seems like any amount of vertical travel of the whole axle (ie both tires droop) and the Watts would try to rotate the axle and eventually bind
You using square tubing for those links?

eight
11-20-2005, 11:52 PM
You using square tubing for those links?

Nope, just my regular sleeved with drill stem.

Shaggy
11-21-2005, 01:41 PM
can you show me a pic of a watts linkage... this is a foreign term to me and i dont feel like searching

mudtoy67
11-21-2005, 01:51 PM
can you show me a pic of a watts linkage... this is a foreign term to me and i dont feel like searching

http://www.opentracking.com/WattsLink-TA.JPG

Here is a Watts link. I imagine Kopecki's would be mounted on top of the axle with the center link bar mounted horizontally...that's how I've seen it before on a 4x4.

AggieTJ2007
11-21-2005, 02:47 PM
you got any pictures Kopecki

davido
11-21-2005, 03:45 PM
So it's a weird 3-link with opposing panhard bars?

Matt Conlee
11-21-2005, 04:23 PM
That guy from top truck challenge with the blue FJ was in Clayton one year with a track bar set up like that but it was horizontal on top of the diff

BMFScout
11-21-2005, 04:42 PM
So it's a weird 3-link with opposing panhard bars?


it keeps it perfectly centered instead or relatively centered like a panhard bar. I think Kopecki said his was going to be a 4 link with the watts linkage.

fbronco86
11-21-2005, 07:05 PM
This helps explain it a little

http://www.spitzracing.com/watts_link.htm

eight
11-28-2005, 12:03 AM
So there I was, welding away on the frame rail, when suddenly, the sum***** caught big fire flames. Turns out somebody arced a fuel line. So that was the end of last night.

Got started again this morning 11:00. Finished at 9. It sits about 1.5" lower than it used to, so if anybody has some 2" lift springs for a TJ or XJ I'm in the market for them. I'm missing my camera again so no pics, maybe I draw one tomorrow. Sure acts different now.

uglyota
11-30-2005, 03:00 PM
is there a reason you can't make adjustable-height upper coil buckets?

eight
11-30-2005, 07:18 PM
They'd have to be spacers. If the coils were mounted on the side of the frame it'd be easy to do by just bolting it on and having lots of different holes. But they're mounted under the frame. I could weld somethin like a 1.5" allthread to the bottom of the frame and weld the upper bucket to a nut so it could be spun up and down and have another nut to lock it. But that's more work and I'm lazy and wouldn't mind stiffer springs either. It soft.

uglyota
11-30-2005, 07:33 PM
I could weld somethin like a 1.5" allthread to the bottom of the frame and weld the upper bucket to a nut so it could be spun up and down and have another nut to lock it.
This is what I was thinking, but I couldn't find the picture

eight
12-10-2005, 04:10 PM
So, I decided to build exhausts. Got my muffler and started planning, couldn't find a dam place to put it. No room in the normal area. Maybe if I got a dual offset 10" long muffler. So I went to my local parts store and found the answer. Got all the driveshaft parts I need, so probably build one of those today. Seguin Driveline said they could make a driveshaft out of 2" .120" wall tubing for me, so any of yall that are into buying driveshafts may want to check there. Then work on motor problems later. Maybe even put some spacers under the coils. Also found my digital camera so I can get yall some pictures.

agjohn02
12-11-2005, 02:07 AM
So I went to my local parts store and found the answer.


hmm, vague, this should be good

CRaSHnBuRN
12-11-2005, 02:19 AM
Seguin Driveline said they could make a driveshaft out of 2" .120" wall tubing for me


Was that a typo, or is the shaft really only gonna be .120 wall? I may be wrong, but that seems kinda thin. My old high angle was a lot thicker than that (I'm thinking it was .250). My current square shafts are also .250 wall, and they still have some pretty deep gouges

bburris
12-11-2005, 03:14 AM
My old high angle was a lot thicker than that (I'm thinking it was .250).
Doubtful... I don't care what he told you - it wasn't that thick.

CRaSHnBuRN
12-11-2005, 04:05 AM
it was still more than .120

bburris
12-11-2005, 04:20 AM
.120 is a common thickness for driveshafts

Sharpe
12-11-2005, 11:07 AM
When I ordered my rear High angle shaft I specifically asked Jesse about a heavier wall and he said that it isnt good on street driven trucks (obviously the buggy isnt, I was just throwing this out there). He usually uses .120 but on mine I think he used .188 because its so long (~60").

eight
12-11-2005, 02:16 PM
Well noone in BCS could make one over .095" wall. So my new dirveshaft is 1.75" OD, so I need to find something with a 1.75" + a little maybe ID. Need some 1 3/4" sch80 but turns out they don't make that. Some 2.25" .250" wall DOM would work, but not sure if they make that, or where to get. The XJ driveshaft is right about the right length, when I sleeve it I'll make it 1" shorter.

eight
12-11-2005, 11:45 PM
Some pics.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/links2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/links4.jpg

And my compact muffeling solution that matches jeep.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/muffler.jpg

CRaSHnBuRN
12-12-2005, 12:32 AM
When I ordered my rear High angle shaft I specifically asked Jesse about a heavier wall and he said that it isnt good on street driven trucks (obviously the buggy isnt, I was just throwing this out there). He usually uses .120 but on mine I think he used .188 because its so long (~60").

yeah, mine was a heavy duty long travel for the front of my truck, and he told me because of the size and weight that is was very hard to balance and shouldn't be used other than when in four wheel drive. So what do I do? Because of problems getting my rear driveshaft shortened (done at a local place), I threw the high angle in the back of my truck and drove around on it for 2 months. It vibrated some, but not anymore than the rest of my truck.

Now on the buggy I run those square drivehafts front and rear, and they work well. I've had the buggy up to 40-50 mph down some county roads back home, and they worked fine. wish I say the same about my steering. I've got mad death wobble

eight
12-12-2005, 09:29 PM
So what are good coil springs for a TJ? I want something that's stiffer than stock, probably about 3" lift springs, as that should give less than 3" of lift with my heavier jeep. The coils are sitting about 2" more compressed than on a stock TJ. And most importantly I don't want them to sag. I'd also like to know the cheapest place to get them.

bburris
12-12-2005, 09:33 PM
Rubicon Express coils are the best.

eight
12-12-2005, 09:49 PM
Just priced 2.25 x .250 DOM at metals depot. $21/ft. I bought 3" stainless sch160 for less than that a few days ago.

eight
12-12-2005, 09:49 PM
Rubicon Express coils are the best.

What about them is the best?

Shaggy
12-12-2005, 09:50 PM
holy damn that is a lot of money

texasxj
12-12-2005, 09:57 PM
rubi coils are known for not sagging, great flex, great quality, actual lift. just an all around good coil

eight
12-14-2005, 07:39 PM
OK, I've got some prices on Rubicon Express 3" TJ springs. $141 shipped. Since cheap springs would only be $20-30 cheaper I'll probably go with these. My only concern is, I'm wanting something stiffer than stock TJ coils. Will these be stiffer at all?

AggieTJ2007
12-14-2005, 09:52 PM
i think the rubicon express coils are a little stiffer, but they are also known to be about 1' taller than advertised, and they settle about 1/2 inch

texasxj
12-14-2005, 11:10 PM
rubi coils are stiffer but the guys that i have talked to wont give me a spring rate
im kinda in limbo with them but will end up getting their springs anyway. xj or zj coils will be stiffer.

bburris
12-15-2005, 01:06 AM
Their spring rates are on Pirate somewhere in the Jeep section.

AggieTJ2007
12-15-2005, 09:57 AM
here they are
Spring Rates:

Super Lift 4" TJ coils:
Front - 150 lbs/in. (constant rate)
Rear - 150 lds/in. (constant rate)

Rubicon Express 4.5" TJ coils:
Front - 190 lbs/in. (constant rate)
Rear - 250 lbs/in. (constant rate)

Currie Enterprises 4" TJ coils:
Front - 165 lbs/in. (constant rate)
Rear "std" - 175 lbs/in. (constant rate)
Rear "hvy duty" 192 lbs/in. (progressive rate)

Rancho TJ coils:
Front: 130 lbs/in.
Rear: 130 lbs/in.
Rear Hvy: 150 lbs/in.

http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=508279

eight
12-15-2005, 07:30 PM
Look alot like I order the rubicon express tomorrow.

Find it odd that the rear is stiffer on most of those. The stock ones sure look alot thinner than the fronts.

Wait, its still before 5:00 in hippy land. Call now.

uglyota
12-15-2005, 07:51 PM
so wutcha gonna do with the coils that are on there now?

eight
12-15-2005, 07:53 PM
I was thinkin about the ebay.

They'd work good on somethin that's light on the ass end.

uglyota
12-16-2005, 10:31 AM
I know someone with a vehicle like that...

free delivery to CS?

agjohn02
12-16-2005, 11:05 AM
yeah... mid january

uglyota
12-16-2005, 11:17 AM
you've got four joints left over as well, don't you?

agjohn02
12-16-2005, 03:13 PM
he should, no watts linkage. remember, he expects you to only want to pay half of what he asks. thats how the pollock works.

uglyota
12-16-2005, 03:17 PM
that's how the Eric works too, but I think I would be happier with a joint that comes with a threaded post anyway

agjohn02
12-16-2005, 03:21 PM
Tsc:)

uglyota
12-16-2005, 03:23 PM
not quite that cheap

eight
12-16-2005, 04:50 PM
Not selling any joints. Not sure what I want for the coils. I traded a pair of d60 hubs for 2 pair of coils.

agjohn02
01-09-2006, 05:22 PM
hey kopecki, i hear colorado is nice this time of year.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMC-Jeep-401-Engine-1977-CJ-rock-crawler-complete_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33615QQitemZ80 28582608QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

eight
03-05-2006, 09:30 PM
So I finally got to looking at jeep and found some damage from katemcy I suppose. The steering has been kinda really ****ty. The steering box mount is broken, and the high steer arm moves. The high steer arm is easy enough to fix, just needs 4, 1/2" studs and lug nuts like the stock setup is on the other side. And I guess I'll just copy the MORE steering box mount, maybe even move the box forward to match the axle location. I need a torch.

Jeep seems to run better with the new alternator.

Doug Krebs
03-05-2006, 09:41 PM
So I finally got to looking at jeep and found some damage from katemcy I suppose. The steering has been kinda really ****ty. The steering box mount is broken, and the high steer arm moves. The high steer arm is easy enough to fix, just needs 4, 1/2" studs and lug nuts like the stock setup is on the other side. And I guess I'll just copy the MORE steering box mount, maybe even move the box forward to match the axle location. I need a torch.

Jeep seems to run better with the new alternator.

I'd let you use mine, but I don't think you'd want to since it's propane :flipoff2:

eight
03-05-2006, 10:11 PM
I can use propane

eight
05-06-2006, 05:04 PM
Yesterday I got the brakes working good. I added 0.5" to the rod between the brake pedal and master cylinder which added about 2" to the brake pedal travel. So now the brakes work great. Except that the rear is locking up before the front but I think that has something to do with 65 psi in the rear tires. I tried that pressure to see what it did with tire chirp and the results were good. So now I have to put them back down to 20 or put on one of those adjustable proportioning valves.

Well I got to working on it today. First plan was to adjust the parking brake and make stuff look legal for inspection. Well in the make stuff look legal phase, I found that the ground wire from the battery to the body was not enough. I was getting a 0.1 volt drop across it. It was a 12 gauge wire which I'd think would be enough, untill I realized that the fans were grounded to the body. So I replaced that wire with an 8 gauge one, and grounded the fans to the block, and now have 0 volt drop. Then I drove it and the hesitation went away, and the idle is smoother.

So now that I had working brakes, parking brake, and improved running engine, I decided I should do something more as I was on a roll. So I'm in the process of replacing the power steering pump. Maybe Monday it'll be legal again.

eight
06-24-2006, 01:19 PM
Turns out those flexx joints or whatever people call them may be no good. Both of the ones in my lower links have distorted and cracked races after 2 uses. I ordered parts for my new front suspension today and went with real currie johnny joints. Summit sells them now for $40 each with a 1.25-12 stud welded on, however they do not sell threaded adapters or jam nuts for them. Also got 2 summit black max 3/4" rod ends for the panhard bar.

agjohn02
06-24-2006, 04:09 PM
i dare you to make it look good.

eight
06-24-2006, 04:46 PM
I'll paint the links, maybe cut off the spring hangers. That's about as far as pretty gets before I get lazy.

agjohn02
06-24-2006, 05:43 PM
i was referring to the welds :flipoff2:

eight
07-05-2006, 07:47 PM
The stuff from summit showed up today. The johnny joints do not look as impressive as the other ones did and do not come with the shank. I'd forgotten you have to press them together, think I will try a hammer first or be very careful with the ironworker if that doesn't work.

eight
08-17-2006, 10:10 PM
Well I didn't paint the pieces yet. It's dam hot outside, was 109 under the tree today. After a little setback from someone moving my jeep while the track bar wasn't connected, I am mostly done. I think it has slight jacking when the brakes are applied, much better than the diving of before. Haven't flexed it yet. Needs shocks. I think I'm gonna put some rear f-250 king ranch fx4 rancho shocks on it.

agjohn02
08-17-2006, 10:23 PM
ah, a three link. i thought it was getting four up front too.

i was hoping for pics when i saw you posted.

eight
08-17-2006, 10:45 PM
This suspension fit the easiest. Allready thinking of cutting off the upper spring mounts to drop it a little, I think I can get an inch out of it, which would put it where it sat with the last leafs.

I took pics. I've been taking pics of things all summer. But my camera needs special software that only exists on the computer in my house where you live so it does no good now.

eight
08-21-2006, 10:30 PM
Maybe my "shocks as an afterthought" way of building suspensions isn't that great. I spent a few hours today figuring out where I could mount them. Gonna have to build new upper and lower mounts and do some trimming on a few things like coil buckets and steering arms. I found a pair of procomp shocks that are stiffer than my bds ones. Also checked the rear ranchos off a new ford and they were softer than the procomp but firmer than the bds. They were quite a bit shorter, probably only 12" travel and the tube was shorter. Leaf springs do alot of damping on their own from the friction between the leafs. Coil springs don't do any so I think shocks should be firmer with a coil suspension. Also found out the jeep still has about 46" of travel with the new suspension, but the front doesn't flex much until the rear stops. Looks like the rear will be getting a sway bar. The wheel base is about 106" now. I have almost 1.5" of clearance between the tire and suspension arm now at full lock so I get to adjust my steering stops. The tires used to hit the leaf springs when I swapped the 60 in. The old 44 was about 2" wider.

Now that I have the coil suspension I can use a normal slip drive shaft, so I'm looking for a 1310 driveshaft with a 1.5" - 2" tube if anyone has one to get rid of. The old temporary square shaft may finally get replaced.

eight
08-27-2006, 12:06 PM
It's mostly done now. I'll probably still paint the links and such. Here's some picture.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/jeepflex3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/jeepflex1.jpg

eight
08-27-2007, 06:24 PM
This weekend I installed "new" 39.5 x 14.5 TSLs. It looks much like it did before but with tread. Also installed the first the first part I could have easily built given a few hours but bought instead.

eight
12-14-2008, 09:28 PM
OK I think I want to get this thing back into decent shape. Nothing's really wrong with it, but much is not really right.

The first problem to be addressed is the erratic idle. The timing at idle is not close to stable. I want to remove the GM TBI ignition control and go back to stock control. Does anybody have a wiring diagram or information for GM TBI being used with stock ignition?

eight
12-14-2008, 10:39 PM
I might replace the homemade tbi adapter first before ripping this apart. This adapter it to adapt a tbi unit it a chevy 2 barrel manifold. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TRD%2D2204&N=700+4294925239+4294814306+115&autoview=sku
Anybody know if the chevy 2 barrel is the same pattern as the amc/ford 2 barrel?

eight
01-01-2009, 11:47 AM
It appears Flem was right a few years ago. Jeep's running good now with the above adapter.

eight
09-12-2009, 07:30 PM
I finally started on repairs from the New Mexico/Arizona trip. Rewired the alternator control, it had caught a little fire in AZ from a bad connection. Now charging a solid 14.3 volts, seems a little high.

Still to do before the jeep's first trip to Clayton, new steering and rear axle. My axle breaking problems should soon be over. Who was it that had d60 setup bearings?

colman
09-13-2009, 06:20 AM
still need a steering box, i have an extra but you have to remove it from the blue cj

DRAGOONRANCH
09-13-2009, 06:35 AM
I finally started on repairs from the New Mexico/Arizona trip. Rewired the alternator control, it had caught a little fire in AZ from a bad connection. Now charging a solid 14.3 volts, seems a little high.

Still to do before the jeep's first trip to Clayton, new steering and rear axle. My axle breaking problems should soon be over. Who was it that had d60 setup bearings?

I think Creighton may have them right now (setup bearings).

eight
09-13-2009, 08:44 AM
still need a steering box, i have an extra but you have to remove it from the blue cj

Ask Coop what happened to the steering box he let me borrow. You can't kill a steering box, right?

I intend to have hydraulic steering going soon.

robertf03
09-13-2009, 10:19 AM
did you ever get that steering box from me, or is it still sitting in my storage closet?

eight
09-13-2009, 12:20 PM
No, probably still there.

AggieTJ2007
09-13-2009, 08:35 PM
If you need the bearing send me your address and i will ship them to you

eight
10-11-2009, 09:09 PM
I ordered a set of Yukon 4340 front axle shafts and u-joints a while back. I tried putting them together today, and one of the u-joints won't fit. It is apparent that the joints had been returned before, and soon will be again. Even the one that fits doesn't seem of decent quality.

So now I need some different joints. What are the thoughts of running stock joints with the 4340 shafts? Are CTMs or Longfields the only other options?

colman
10-12-2009, 12:48 AM
most shaft manufacturers make better joints now

Shaggy
10-12-2009, 02:25 PM
CTMs have gone up a lot in price in the last few years... dont know if it is the same across the board

eight
10-12-2009, 05:06 PM
What you want for your CTMs?

uglyota
10-12-2009, 05:28 PM
$4500. You can probably get him to throw in the housing for another $500 :D

Shaggy
10-13-2009, 09:18 AM
What you want for your CTMs?

i am going to keep them right now... think I am going to put axles in jeep next summer

colman
10-13-2009, 09:44 PM
do it

eight
10-31-2009, 09:17 AM
Finally got around to disassembling the rear axle. I had a little breakage in Arizona and we pulled out mysterious pieces with a magnet, then the magnet got stuck.

Looks like the shaft took out the bearing journal on the carrier, and also the inner race of the bearing. Glad I wasn't planning to reuse that carrier. Had to pull it because I need the gears to put on the detroit for the front.

uglyota
11-02-2009, 11:40 AM
holy wow. nice breakage


...the detroit for the front.

wait, what!?

eight
11-02-2009, 12:54 PM
I'm eliminating unlockable hubs. Got to have some way to let the front unlock for highway cruising.

uglyota
11-02-2009, 12:56 PM
it's like I don't even know you anymore :)

redcagepatrol
11-02-2009, 12:58 PM
that was not what I expected to see - interesting break! I guess the bearing came apart in pieces then...

eight
11-14-2009, 07:02 PM
Got a pair of spicer joints and continued assembly of the axle today. I have no luck, or maybe I buy crap. The drive flanges don't fit over the axle shafts.

AggieTJ2007
11-14-2009, 07:18 PM
what brand flanges? I know that hte better ones that we put on Ed's truck had to be coerced into place because they were a tight fit vs the cheap ones that had play in them..

eight
11-14-2009, 09:27 PM
http://extremeoffroadparts.com/sdrive.shtml
I have dodge axle, external hubs. This is the only company I know of that normally makes them. Someone else made a few batches. All reviews I have read say good. Hopefully they make it right.

eight
12-06-2009, 04:37 PM
Making a d60 rear axle take 35 spline shafts is not a very easy task. One must enlargen the spindles. I have found that a 1.5" hole saw works well. However, many issues have come up.

You will need:
Good 1/2" drill. I first broke Scott's and then picked up a double reduction unit from Harbor Freight. (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93632)
1 1/2" hole saw. (http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware/RIDGID/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg8ZarnkZ18g/R-100495367/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053)
Hole saw attachment device. I first broke Scott's and the picked up one with the little pins (http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware/RIDGID/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg8ZarnkZ18g/R-100495387/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053)
An extension (http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hardware/RIDGID/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg8ZarnkZ18g/R-100495386/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053)

You will also need something to keep the hole saw centered in the existing hole. It must fit closely inside the existing spindle bore, and also inside the hole saw. I found that an old craftsman 1" socket works excellently. I borrowed Scott's Craftsman 1" deep socket thinking it would line the tool up better because of more length and found that it's OD is smaller. My 1/2" sockets are from I believe 1978, at some point Craftsman must have cheapened.

I have found that motor oil makes a good cutting lube, better than PB Blaster or ATF.

You can only drill about 3/16" deep at a time. Then you must pull the bit out and clean out the shavings. I think this is because the socket takes up all the space where the shavings should go.

I've made it about 5" into the first spindle. Letting the metal cool again. Pictures on next break.

85cj7
12-06-2009, 04:53 PM
Could a shop have done this on a lathe for you? After the expense of tools and investment of time, is this cheaper compared to machining costs?

AggieTJ2007
12-06-2009, 05:09 PM
you are talking to kopeki here

85cj7
12-06-2009, 05:17 PM
Also, what about d-70 spindles, didn't they come with 35 spline stubs from the factory? Can you bolt d-70 spindles to a d-60 knuckle or do you have to change out all the outers?

eight
12-06-2009, 06:01 PM
This is a rear axle. 35 spline stubs fit right in to front spindles.

Got one side finished, axle fit in. Probably about 3 hours not counting finding tools.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/misc/100_0117.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/misc/100_0115.jpg

I got tired of pushing on the drill.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/misc/100_0118.jpg

eight
08-12-2010, 11:45 PM
Everything worked well at Clayton. Busted u-joint in the front driveshaft again, will be switched to 1350 soon. When I put the rear axle in this time I went with stock 96 bronco springs. These sit 3.5" higher than the TJ springs I had previously. By changing the mounts I was able to lose 2" of the extra height. The ride is better now, no more bottoming. Still need to lose another inch of height.

I finally moved the jeep to the new place. It's a tight fit, in that the roll bar rubs the latch mechanism on the garage door. Really thought I'd have some clearance, even got 2 tires a little low. Now if I can just motivate myself to stop fishing I might get some work done.

KrazyKarl02
08-13-2010, 07:12 AM
Now if I can just motivate myself I will bring it to Shiloh Ridge

Added what you meant to say in there.

DRAGOONRANCH
08-13-2010, 09:03 AM
Added what you meant to say in there.

^5

eight
08-13-2010, 11:58 AM
I believe the shiloh run conflicts with the flounder run.

eight
01-20-2011, 11:39 AM
Been doing a little work lately. Changed the transfer case out for one with bigger outputs and cut down the skid plate so I can change joints easier. Finally made a round driveshaft for the front.

Then I cut the back off.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/Photo0099.jpg

redcagepatrol
01-20-2011, 11:41 AM
that's just not right!

eight
01-20-2011, 11:44 AM
Yes, while the patrol is getting heavier my jeep is getting lighter.

FJAggie07
01-20-2011, 11:45 AM
Been doing a little work lately. Changed the transfer case out for one with bigger outputs and cut down the skid plate so I can change joints easier. Finally made a round driveshaft for the front.

Then I cut the back off.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v160/ryankopecki/jeep%20mods/Photo0099.jpg

:eek::eek::eek:

Now your as gay as the rest of the jeep fags!

mudtoy67
01-20-2011, 11:48 AM
At least the front didn't fall off.

eight
01-20-2011, 11:55 AM
Front gets shortened next.

robertf03
01-20-2011, 12:05 PM
too long for the boat trailer?

eight
01-07-2012, 12:07 AM
Apparently the JB conversions 1310 yoke does not offer as much driveshaft angle as a stock yoke. The driveshaft and yoke did a lot of hitting, and this is why the front shaft came out twice. I took a super dremel to it and now it's better, probably still should add a limit strap.