Whooop!!!

[Cajun]

These FINALLY arrived last Friday.

http://www.sierrarockcrawlers.com/data/srcforumuploads/DSC00663.JPG

http://www.sierrarockcrawlers.com/data/srcforumuploads/DSC00662.JPG

http://www.sierrarockcrawlers.com/data/srcforumuploads/DSC00664.JPG

74" WMS to WMS
Notice that both axles have tie rods...

:D

[StevenAg03]

MMMMMM MOGS.....

what are the specs on them...i mean what gears are they? are you gonna run detroits? also what lug pattern is that? are you gonna have to get special rims made?


looks cool man...now you need to post the pic of that hot rod CJ body that they are gonna go underneath. You know the one with the cool arse racing stripes :D

EDIT..that is one hellacious pinion...how much are you gonna have to lengthen the wheel base to accomadate them?

[BigRedFord04]

that makes me drool...

[Jackasic]

those Willwoods give me a st****. I could definatly go for some for pot calipers:D :D

[Rex]

All mog axles are 7.56 gearing, stock selectable lockers, and a weird 6 lug pattern that you have to get special wheels for. Are those 404's or 406's? I would love to have some of those in my Jeep, but I am sticking with d60, 14 bolt. So you are going rear steer? Are you going to do full hydro all the way around? :D

[Cajun]

The pinion is the biggest obstacle to overcome with these axles. They're 20" from the axle centerline to the pinion flange, vs. 8" from the same points of the RC D60 front I've got. I'm planning on a 110" wheelbase. The real question is whether I'll be able to run an auto (TH350 or 400) or a stick (SM 420 or 465). Instincts tell me an auto will be very hard to do, but then I found this (http://www.jdsoffroad.com/projectveh/rockcrusher.htm) . So who knows.

The gears are 7.56:1. The diffs are factory cable-actuated lockers. Think ARB, but cable instead of air, like an OX locker I guess. I was messing with it the other day, there's a little lever on the outside of the diff where the cable attatches and I was flipping it by hand, turning the pinion flange and locking and unlocking the diff. I'm easily amused I guess.:D

I don't know what the bolt pattern is. It's similar to a rockwells in size, but it's metric. As for wheels, I'm gonna cut the centers out of my hummer wheels and get a local metal shop to fab me new centers and weld 'em in.

Oh yeah, those brakes are cool aren't they?

[Cajun]

They're 404's, and yes I'm going full hydro all around.

[Jason]

So, where can you get spare parts for those things? I have heard of a few blown portals, but I doubt autozone carries those, and pick'n'pull's aren't real big on Mog parts either. Those things are cool though, lots of clearance, I would just be nice to them if you don't have spares.

[Rex]

I would say you could run a powerglide, but I don't think you can adapt it to any t-cases. You don't really need a lot of gears because you can only go about 55 mph on mog axles. Where did you get the axles, how much? I would still say go for a sm420. I'd like to know how the wheels go, Twisted Customs makes custom centers for hummer wheels for $50 a piece.

[Cajun]

I've found a couple of on-line vendors who sell pretty much any surplus part you could ever want for a 'Mog. Most of the stuff in New Old Stock (NOS). Not brand new, but never used. While you can't pick them up at your local NAPA, they are readily available and reasonably priced. For example, a complete portal housing, including all reduction gears and axle shaft is priced comparably to an aftermarket alloy shaft for a D60. As for being nice to them, I'm not planning on doing anything really nasty with them until I get a spare left and right portal unit.

Like you, I've heard of portal housings "blowing apart". This has occured, in every case where I've found an eye witness, from high rpm induced shock loading. The classic "irresistable force meets immovable object". I don't dig that style of driving. I'd rather "finesse" my way up and over an obstacle without spinning a tire than attack it full throttle. Standing on the skinny pedal requires very little driving skill, IMO. After a lot of research, I decided that these axles would be a good fit for my driving style. And I wanted to do something a bit different.

There's a lot of bashing done on these axles, especially on the PBB, since one of the older, respected members of the BB has stated that he dosen't like them and thinks that they are weak those less informed and newbies looking to make a good impression have fallen all over themselves to bash anything 'Mog related. If you really want some good info on 'Mog axles (404, 406, 416) or other portal axles, try the forum at http://www.sierrarockcrawlers.com . They know their stuff over there. Also, it's a good wheeling forum in general. I actually prefer it to the PBB. You have to wait a bit longer for tech info, but you don't have to filter through all the macho posturing and assorted BS that abounds on the PBB.

2 trucks in this years TTC are using 'Mog portals, so I'm interested to see how they'll hold up. One is the "Fat City Bronco" who is using 404 portals on flipped Ford 9"s with a 426 (or so) and 42" TSLs. The other is a K5 who is using 404s, 44"s, and a big block. More info can be found here (http://www.exaxt.ca/) . I figure that if these guys really get after it and don't break out there, chances are I'll be ok.

EDIT: I got these from Don Henry in British Columbia. His prices start at $1500 U.S. for a steering axle and go from there.

TTFN

[StevenAg03]

after hearing several people talking bout mogs, i expected them to look a little bit different. If they are comparable in strength to a D60, then i think they would be a good addition to any off road vehicle. We watched the video of troy in farmington tonight. There was a yellow mog that did pretty good.

are you gonna run coils? or leafs?

As for the PBB....i agree with you opinion that people tend to jump on a band wagon so they arent "made fun of".....it is kind of hard to get good tech out of them even though they claim to be the "College" level of four wheelin. I tend to stay in the Chit chat area unless i really need some info.

[Krawler68]

The Mogs look sweet...

The chit Chat section of the POR is SHAT...

only the FoRD section is worth anything...

[davido]

First of all, YOU'RE A FAG. :eek: Now that that's out of the way...

I was looking at the HWheels in blue. Schnazzy.
http://www.exaxt.ca/images/hulk1.JPG
He's running a TH400 with a 203/205 doubler. If he can fit that, surely you can run a TH400 with an Atlas. Maybe I'm missing something. Just an observation. But you should get a stick anyway. Much coola. :D

Michael Thompson is putting together a HWheel spacer group buy in case you need them. I told them that they are gay and that he should just be a man, hack off those stock arms, and get some REAL steering arms. Actually, I didn't... but wouldn't it be cool if. I'm planning on the dog legged steering arms instead. I don't want to screw with the spacers. He might also know of a good place to get the centers done, if you haven't already found a place.

That's all for now. Happy Bday Jackassic!


PS - Kick *** axles! Congrats. :D

[Krawler68]

who's a fag? :p

[Cajun]

Running a stick wouldn't hurt my feelings. However, I like the added control that an auto affords. Plus I've gotta keep the right hand free to operate the rear steering:cool:

As for spacers, I'm trying to avoid them at all costs. I figure that the axles are wide enough as is.

Speaking of measurements, how long is too long wheelbase wise for this part of the country? Like Gilmer or Clayton, for example. I contacted the builder of the narrowed CJ buggy that I linked to and he told me that he was running a 114" WB with a TH 400 and an Atlas II. I was planning on 110". So, will the extra 4" make that big of a difference? I know the Wagoner Machine folks run in excess of 120" on their rides, but that's a bit different terrain up there. I'm concerned about breakover angle, since I want to keep the overall height of the Jeep as low as possible for the sake of stability.

Steven, right now I'm planning on running coils. The only other options are coilovers($$$) or airbags(seem to be a headache). Leaves are out of the question due to overall length, and I have to employ a link system to control axle wrap anyway.

David, what is your overall width with the 4-deuces mounted? How about WMS to WMS? I'm trying to get a rough estimate on how wide this thing is going to be. I've got a buddy selling a 18' trailer with an 82" deck (I don't think that's gonna be enough) but I want to check it out.

[StevenAg03]

Andy, i think you are gonna have to spring for a 102" gooseneck or something of the sort. It is definatly gonna have to be a deck over trailer. those axles are gonna be close to normal full widths if you use hummer rims. Davids 42's stick out about 3-4" on each side of the tub in the rear. I think brian richey's 33" TSL's stick out farther then that on a stock rear axle....

[Broncocustom]

That trailer will work. The bronco fits on mine. Scott just added a pipe rail over one fender. The tire rides up the pipe and over the fender. then back down the other side to come to a rest in front of the fender. This method works good. Or you could beef up the fenders to hold the weight of the jeep riding over it.

[StevenAg03]

i think i remembered him saying something to the effect that they were around 74" wide. that is 10" wider then my turck and i would imagine that your bronco is around the same width as my truck .....that said....his would be a little bit wider then yours i think...

[davido]

Originally posted by Cajun
David, what is your overall width with the 4-deuces mounted? How about WMS to WMS? I'm trying to get a rough estimate on how wide this thing is going to be. I've got a buddy selling a 18' trailer with an 82" deck (I don't think that's gonna be enough) but I want to check it out.


With the current axle, I'm 78" in the ***, measured from the outside of the tires. Not too shabby for running 42s. I'm hoping that the Corp 14 will be the same.

~dso

[Broncocustom]

Mine is around 86" from outside of tire to outside of tire.

[Cajun]

Well, it looks as if my buddies trailer will be sold anyway. The problem with it was that it had a pipe rail about 2' above the deck which provided most of the trailer's strength. I would've had to cut the rail off and then do something to strengthen the trailer. Plus he wanted too much for it.

I'll probably end up with a tandem dual or triple single gooseneck big enough for 2 vehicles. Not much urgency in a trailer right now, since the CJ is at least a year from completion.