Damn I wanna wheel

[8Runner]

I spent a nostalgic few hours last night looking through the forum and missing wheeling so bad it is not even funny. Hayley & I are finally wrapping up the closing on the duplex and we may come out a bit ahead as far as money goes, so I need something to waste it on....

That said, I thought I would post my problems and see what everybody's thoughts were.

1. Overheating at low speed - Highway is fine, no room for a mechanical fan so all I have is a 14" electric fan. 4 core copper radiator, trying to avoid spending the cash to go aluminum.
2. Runs lean whenever I accelerate. Maybe a computer problem, but now we are leaning toward mechanical. Got the suggestion from Lance to take it down to Pick Ups plus to put a scope on it.
3. Front drive shaft angle - This is a tom woods double cardan, long travel shaft. Those of you that went on my fateful last trip to Llano, will remember that it didn't do so well. It keeps busting the bolts (better than the U joints, I guess). The truck has settled some since then, so it is not quite as bad, but I can hear it knocking on the upper (double cardan) end of the shaft when in 4wd.
4. Tires & Wheels - Only money will solve this one. I still haven't replaced my TSL/SX's & American Eagle rims since they were stolen a while back. I do still have a BRAND NEW TSL/SX spare & Rim though. I am thinking of just running one set and selling the 35" BFG AT's & black steel rims that are on it now. I have heard good things about BFG Crawlers. I want to run 37"s.

For those of you not familiar with my truck, it is a heavily modified (that is an understatement) 4runner with a TPI 350 in it. More details & pics at the website below.

Thanks in advance for all the help & advice and screw you in advance to all the old fawkers that I know are going to say "I told you so" & I just need to get a new truck.

[Chadnutz]

To resolve your drive shaft woes you can either go high pinion or dual cases to get a better angle.

Pick Ups Plus is a good place.

[8Runner]

Thanks nutz...I thought about going with a high pinion setup, but realized it might be more cost effective to just cut & turn the front axle due to the fact that I would need new gears & air locker. At Least I think that is the case, can anyone confirm?

[Doug Krebs]

For the cooling problem you could get dual taurus fans. I know you have the power to run them, I've seen that dual output alternator you have.

I have a scanner that will hook up to your TPI your more than welcome to use it. You'd have to read the book on it, as I have not used it yet.

By the way, it has a 700R4 with a 205 on the rear if I remember correctly.

[8Runner]

The problem with the fans is space. In theory the 14" fan that is on there now should be enough, but something obviously isn't adequate. Do you know the dimensions of the dual fan setup you suggested? I have to mount them in front of the radiator because of the 1.5" water pump clearance.

It is a 700R4 with an NP205. I am not up on the lingo, but I think Lance already hooked up a scanner to the computer & that is how we found the lean problem. I think a scope hooks to the exhaust to judge things like mixture and whatnot.

[Chadnutz]

You have a Toy front? If so it seems like it would be a bitch to cut and turn. How about that 203/205 doubler or whatever those Chevy guys use? That would give you some length in your drive train.

[8Runner]

Yeah it is a straight axle out of an older toy. It can be cut & turned at the knuckles, but that means moving the perches too.

Good point about the doubler. I sure would rather spend my money on low-low gearing and then lengthen the front shaft, versus wasting it on cutting & turning. Anybody know how much a difference it would make? I guess if you can tell me the difference it would add, I can figure out the new angle and call Tom Woods to see what he thinks.

[Doug Krebs]

The 700R4 you have has a cut shaft so the 205 can bolt onto the rear I believe.

A doubler uses the 203 first and the 205 bolts onto the rear of the 203 with an adaptor plate, so your tranny has to have a 203 on it.

Also remember the rear shaft gets shorter as the front gets longer, but the rear axle is usually easier to deal with since pinion angle is easier to set. Plus I think that thing is long enough that this isn't an issue anyways.

[8Runner]

So you are saying I would have to lose the 205 and step down to a 203 to make this work? Aren't they weaker?

[Doug Krebs]

The doubler which is the 203 range box mated to a 205 via and adaptor plate and input gear. The 205 is behind the 203.

So what I'm saying is you would have to figure out a way to put the 203 onto the 700R4.

Normally a 203 is not desirable because most are full time, all are heavy, and they are chain driven. I would not be concerned about the strength of the case at all. I have never broken my aluminum 208.

If you going the doubler route you have to figure out the tranny issue. I'm assuming you want the 700R4 because of overdrive so it is still streetable with the 5.13's.

[Chadnutz]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/search.php?s=&action=showresults&searchid=932859&sortby=&sortorder=

[8Runner]

Yeah, that is why I picked the 700R4. Aren't there some other 2nd xfer case options other than the 205/203 doubler?

[Chadnutz]

over heating - http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=181147

[Doug Krebs]

Ok this is taken directly from the ORD site:


GM TH700 R4 / 4L60E Automatic Transmission:
The TH700 has the same bolt pattern on the back of the transmission as the TH350 and uses a 27 spline output shaft. Since the TH700 only came with the NP208 or later alum t-cases, it's shaft stickout is a little over 2" in factory form. One difference to be aware of is that the TH700 uses 4 metric bolts to secure the adapter to the transmission case.
There are two ways to bolt to the NP203. They are very similar to the TH350 mounting mentioned above.
1: replace the output shaft in the TH700 with an aftermarket output that sticks out of the case by about 7/8". This makes the output identical to the TH350 and you use a TH350 version NP203 with the 27 spline input and a TH350 to NP203 factory 1" thick adapter plate. This is the shortest method. The output shaft cost is $160 and it is available from ORD.

2: use the factory TH700 output shaft and the factory TH700 to NP208 adapter housing with a TH350 version NP203. You will have to re-drill and tap holes in the NP203 gearbox to be able to bolt it to the original NP208 adapter housing. You may also have to do minor machine work on the input bearing retainer on the NP203.




You've already cut the shaft on the 700R4. I'm not sure if it is the correct length. If it is all you have to do is find a 203 that is 27 splined. Those are pretty easy to find, I think Eight (Kopecki) has one for sale on this board. Then you would just have to buy the kit. I know there is a vendor on POR that sells them for ~400 instead of the 900 that ORD sells them for.

[BigRedFord04]

Originally posted by 8Runner
I have heard good things about BFG Crawlers. I want to run 37"s.
i guess i'll step in and answer one of the other questions since everyone is caught up talking about xfer cases...Krawlers are an awesome off-road tire, specifically for the rocks because they are an extremely soft compound rubber, so the soft tire on the hot rocks of the summer almost stick together. 4 wheel parts i'm sure will have one in stock and i think before you go out and buy a set you should just go FEEL how soft they are. I wouldnt give you 5000 miles before they are 25% tread left. Now on the other hand...Goodyear makes this kickass tire call the "MT/R" that i hear everyone loves. I even heard one review that said it "cleans like mad!". And i'm pretty sure i've seen a couple people who are running some sweet ass 37"s, everyone should have 37"s, i think you should join that club. :D :D

[8Runner]

Damn, 5000 miles - that's worse than my swampers, I think. I would pretty much have to keep the street tires if they wear that poorly. Does somebody in the club have Krawlers (with a k?) that will be at the meeting tomorrow night?

I have been reading the POR thread about heat sent earlier LOTS of good info. Maybe trimming the core supports and moving the radiator forward will clear room for a mechanical or at least two more small electrical fans. I like the shimming the rear hood mounts suggestion or possibly even getting a hood scoop.

Damn, I didn't expect so much info so fast. I appriciate it and any other ideas/resources that you might suggest.

[Graystroke]

MTR's :O V E R R A T E D! ! :flipoff2:

ps they suck :D

[redcagepatrol]

the lean mixture is not helping the overheating problem either. Getting that fixed will help.

MTR's suck:flipoff2:

The Krawlers that 4WPs sells are not the same as the ones the comp guys have, they will last longer.

[JB]

Not that this has anything to do with what your asking, but the times I have seen it driving around town, it seems to sit quite ass-high. What are you running in the rear?

[uglyota]

are you running the original fuel pump, or did you convert to GM? For higher volume and easy swap, I think a MKIV turbo supra fuel pump would bolt right in.
If you have lots of money and want to fix your angles and gear down at the same time, does Klune-V make a box for you?

[uglyota]

cody was trying to unload a bigger electric fan

[8Runner]

JBrown89 wrote:


it seems to sit quite ass-high. What are you running in the rear?

I think you are asking about lift, it is using custom blocks with all-pro leaf springs. It has settled considerably in the front over the last few months of driving and I need to drop the rear end a notch or two on the VERY LONG shackles. We planned for this, so it shouldn't be hard, but I would like to find a lift to use to do it. Waiting for Lance to move his suburban so I can bum his.

uglyota wrote:


are you running the original fuel pump, or did you convert to GM?

I actually just burnt up my old toy pump about a month ago. Not sure if the new one is GM, but it is higher volume. We also put in a regulator because that is what we originally thought was causing the lean issue. We have it way cranked up now and it actually runs rich at idle & cruising then way lean when gassing it.

[robertf03]

pressure regulators aren't the way to be changing that stuff on a multiport engine. get different injectors and run a stock psi pump.

is yours a 350 block using a 305 tpi setup? if so you need new injectors

[8Runner]

I believe it has the new injectors, but I am not sure. Will have to ask. I think the regulator is all the way open now, that was just a cheap try to get the old toy pump to push more.

[Fredo]

Well, on TPI, like Rob said, you need to verify that it is in fact has 350 injectors, then you need to either use a GM fuel pump, or find a pump that is suitable for your needs...which are a pump that provides a pressure in the 45-60psi range and delivers around 175+gph. I would suggest a gm style in tank Walbro 225 with an adjustable regulator. It would take and doubt out of the equation as far as fuel starvation is concerned with at the pump. But, to really tell what is causing the lean condition, you need to really find out what your sensors are reading. There are many things that can cause a computer to report a lean condition under acceleration, but be pig rich at idle. Intake leaks, vaccuum leaks, exhaust leaks, exhaust leaks before the o2 sensor, or a bad map sensor. What you need to do is get an interface cable and a copy of WinALDL and really get to looking at it and see exactly what it's doing.

[BMFScout]

yeah you are a computer guy, I bet you have a laptop somewhere you could use...:flipoff2: I would say that fan is moving enough air, what you might try since it is close, is a dual fan set-up off of something, that way the water pump pulley can sit between the two fan motors, that is how my scout is.

[jerryg79]

Originally posted by BigRedFord04
Now on the other hand...Goodyear makes this kickass tire call the "MT/R" that i hear everyone loves. I even heard one review that said it "cleans like mad!". :D :D

You have just lumped yourself in with the likes of brandon spears....good job:rainbow:

[eight]

I've got that 203. Not sure what tranny it's hooked to. Can someone tell me how to identify a th350 or th400? Its in a 77 3/4 ton chevy. I'll be going where the truck is this weekend. I'll take $100 for it with the stock adapter.

I think the fan Cody is selling is a 15" black majic puller style fan. I've seen 14" fans from 1000 to 2950 cfm. Make sure you have a pusher style fan to use it in front of the radiator. Here's some good ones. (http://store.summitracing.com/product.asp?d=5&s=93&p=1527&searchtype=ecat) Wrapping the headers should cool it down a little too. And you could add an engine oil cooler with a little fan.

[8Runner]

I've got to figure out if it would even work in this setup. Is there a way I can tell without trying it?

[Doug Krebs]

Originally posted by 8Runner
I've got to figure out if it would even work in this setup. Is there a way I can tell without trying it?

Fans or doubler?? Which one?? And what would work?

[8Runner]

I was talking about the 203 from eight

[bburris]

We just pulled a dual speed Taurus fan and it's sitting in the garage my Jeep is parked in front of. If you want it, I can get a video of how fast this thing moves on the high setting. I'd bet a beer that it will move more air than the fan you have, but it's a puller, so it will have to go behind the radiator.

[Doug Krebs]

Originally posted by 8Runner
I was talking about the 203 from eight

Well you'd have to know how much of the splines are left on the tail shaft. You can also get a new one for $150 that is meant for the application from ORD

[8Runner]

Ok Doug, just to clarify - you are talking about paying $150 for a new 700R4 so that I can be sure it will mate to 'eight's 203, correct? How much was the double kit you were talking about, as well?

Thanks again for all the help.

[eight]

That's just for the output shaft for the 700r4. And to be sure if it would work I'd have to know what version of 203 I have. But they're not that hard to find if mine's the wrong one anyway.

[spool]

For your driveshaft problems call Jess at Highangle Driveline. I just got 2 new shafts from him and he was a lot more helpful than Tom Woods. Tom Woods told me I would have to rotate my tcase back down for my front shaft angle. Jess sold me a flange for my tcase and made me a toyota conversion shaft and it solved my problem. Much more helpful.

[Doug Krebs]

Originally posted by eight
That's just for the output shaft for the 700r4. And to be sure if it would work I'd have to know what version of 203 I have. But they're not that hard to find if mine's the wrong one anyway.

Is the pan square on the bottom of the tranny?? Or is it square with one diagonal side? I don't think too many 400's came with a 203 so I'm betting it's the right case.

[AgDieseler]

Chris, most of your ORD Doubler questions can be answered from their site. Here's a good page to start with.

ORD Doubler Info (http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/doubler.htm)

[eight]

Originally posted by Doug Krebs
Is the pan square on the bottom of the tranny?? Or is it square with one diagonal side? I don't think too many 400's came with a 203 so I'm betting it's the right case.

I'll check it this weekend. Which one is square and which one has the diagnal thing?

[AgDieseler]

700R4 is square, 400 has the diagonal

[redcagepatrol]

Originally posted by Doug Krebs
Well you'd have to know how much of the splines are left on the tail shaft. You can also get a new one for $150 that is meant for the application from ORD

There is about 1" of splined shaft left on his tranny.

[AgDieseler]

Then I would seriously consider a new output shaft since the engagement is roughly twice that. ORD also sells those.

[8Runner]

Originally posted by spool
For your driveshaft problems call Jess at Highangle Driveline. I just got 2 new shafts from him and he was a lot more helpful than Tom Woods. Tom Woods told me I would have to rotate my tcase back down for my front shaft angle. Jess sold me a flange for my tcase and made me a toyota conversion shaft and it solved my problem. Much more helpful.

Except both my shafts are already Tom Woods. I asked around alot when I got them 2 years ago and they sounded like the best at the time. Do you think he would still be helpful to talk to?

[spool]

You can talk to him but Highangle was much more helpful. Tom woods told me i needed to figure a way to get less driveshaft angle where Jess made me a front shaft that could handle the angle. Also Jess might be able to rework your driveshaft for you. It was nice to have someone give me a solution to my problem rather than tell me to find a way to fix it. Jess's shafts looked better and came better packaged to. What ever you do call jess and talk to him at least.

One ton rear shaft and half toyota half jeep front shaft works great

[8Runner]

You have contact info or a website for Highangle? I will give them a call ASAP.

BTW, I got some great info from that thread of on Pirat4x4 on the heat issues. Thanks for the referral!

[CRaSHnBuRN]

go with high angle. Jess is very helpful. He built my front shaft, and lets just say you don't want the thing to come lose and hit you in the head, that thing is heavy.

As for your angle problems, you may not like me saying this, but lose some lift. I saw it a week or so ago, and even if it is settling, it's still to tall for just 37's. I thought my truck was to tall, and its short compared to your's, and I didn't have all that extra wieght up high because mine was just a single cab truck. It most likely will be easier just to lower the truck a bit, compared to cutting axles or swapping drivetrain components

[8Runner]

Originally posted by CRaSHnBuRN


As for your angle problems, you may not like me saying this, but lose some lift.

I hear ya. I have thought about this for a while. The front end does rub a bit with the 37's on it, but I could cut out the fenders as a few others have done. I am going to wait to do anything further than lower the rear end a couple inches though until I put the 37's back on and take a look at it.

[Doug Krebs]

Check out violent91 on the pirate board. He seems to have the exact setup you have except a pickup. Has 38's a 350/th350/205 maybe he could help you out with some of your problems. Says he is in uvalde and college station. Maybe someone needs to recruit him to the club??

[bubbawalker85]

Originally posted by Doug Krebs
Check out violent91 on the pirate board. He seems to have the exact setup you have except a pickup. Has 38's a 350/th350/205 maybe he could help you out with some of your problems. Says he is in uvalde and college station. Maybe someone needs to recruit him to the club??

Hes my buddy. Hes signing up tonight. He'll see yall there. Me and him do the fabwork on his truck...it came out really kickass. He says it should be ready for the trails early november.

[eight]

Originally posted by AgDieseler
Then I would seriously consider a new output shaft since the engagement is roughly twice that. ORD also sells those.

If you read the stuff from ORD. It says the shaft needs to stick out 7/8". Can't be the stock 2" or whatever it is.

[AgDieseler]

My bad.

[8Runner]

So it may work with the 203 as is, then...

[robertf03]

if you really want to wheel, fix the overheating problem, then worry about drivetrain stuff. do you really need more gearing, or are you throwing in a doubler to solve your driveshaft problem?

take a step back and set some priorities on this thing

take it from the king of "while I'm at it", just fix it

[Violentv8toy]

Yo.

Cooling probs: Aluminum radiator. Move it forward. Taurus fan. Cut the inner fenderwells. Call it good.

Driveline bind: Cut/Turn the front axle. Its cheaper. Drop the rear end a bit. Get your shafts cut to correct length. Wheel it.

Wheels/Tires: Get the new 36x13.5 IROCS. MT/Rs suck in my experiences and many of my friends. BFGs suck unless you've got the brand spankin' new ones that didnt get recalled. Krawlers are a bit pricy last time i checked. I Vote irocs.

Engine Prob: Can't help you there. I can barely change an O2 sensor on a toy without ripping it out and putting a new engine in it....:cool:

[eight]

Originally posted by Violentv8toy

Engine Prob: Can't help you there. I can barely change an O2 sensor on a toy without ripping it out and putting a new engine in it....:cool:

In case you missed it, he has a tpi 350.

I like the looks of the IROKs too and would like to see them wheeled. Seems like a pretty good deal as far as price goes. If I was one to buy new tires, I'd probably have them.

[Doug Krebs]

Originally posted by eight
In case you missed it, he has a tpi 350.



I'm not sure he has a TPI but I know he has a chevy V8

[8Runner]

It is TPI, & Violent knows I have a 350 because we were looking @ it together last night (he has a 350 too). I thought I was the king of "while I'm at it"

So here is my plan so far:
1. Lower the rear end & see if it helps the driveline angle at all. Before proceeding to more drastic methods (like cutting & turning or a doubler)
2. Aluminum Radiator & Trim core supports to make room for a taurus fan
3. Put a scope on the truck to see why it is running lean when accelerating

[Violentv8toy]

I dont think that lowering the rear end alone will help the driveline angle up front.

I say you cut and turn the knuckles.

it shouldnt be too hard esp when you're working with the axle on a bench.

Cutting and turning is a 25 dollar weekend job. Doubler is a 1000 dollar 2 week job.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

cutting and turning a toy axle sucks. Much harder than a domestic axle like your D44.

I know, how about some rockwells? :D Should solve the DS problems

[CRaSHnBuRN]

does this count as fender trimming? should run real cool now

[Violentv8toy]

Yeah i was looking at the toyota axle under his 4runner and it is harder to do than a domestic axle, but once you think about it, its kind of the only way to do it since he doesnt want to drop the front and the all pros have already settled. Cutting and turning 10 degrees should take away all his vibes. I'll probably have the same problem when i put on my front shaft since my truck is so damn high.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Don't you have those long shackles in the front? Maybe shorten them some, should help the hieght and the pinion angle. Then get a set of steel shims, and put them on for a little more. Also , try taking out the bottom leaf from the spring pack, should lower it a little more. I'll most likely be removing one or two once I get the truck rebuilt.

I still say you should call jess at High Angle. Everyone swore I would need dual cases or a high pinion to keep the vibs down when I first built my truck. I decided to try and get by (okay I was broke) without it. Jesse cranked one out for me, and it gave me no vibs at low speeds. Then one cold ass night I threw my rear driveshaft an hour from home. So I drove home in front wheel drive. The DS made a little noise but didn't vibrate much at all, even when I hit speeds over 55mph. Now that I have dual cases, I had Jess lengthen it, and it just happens to work in the front or the rear. Hell, I drove to mason on that thing. its a little noisy at times, but no problems other than that

[8Runner]

Cutting & Turning the front axle will also be a $1000 2 week job as I have to send it off to get it done. From what I understand it is fairly difficult to get everything to line up right and must be done on a special jig. To lessen downtime, I may even get a new toy axle & have it turned, if I do have to go this route.

I do not have an easy way to lower the front end as I do the back. No long shackles. Only way to lower the front end is swap springs or cut & make new mounts.

I am going to call Jess at Highangle to see if anything can be done w/ out cutting & turning or dropping the front end. It is close to working now. Anybody have his contact infor wor website?

[Doug Krebs]

Originally posted by 8Runner
Cutting & Turning the front axle will also be a $1000 2 week job as I have to send it off to get it done. From what I understand it is fairly difficult to get everything to line up right and must be done on a special jig. To lessen downtime, I may even get a new toy axle & have it turned, if I do have to go this route.


That is really expensive, where did you get that qoute???

[TXsizeK5]

www.highangledriveline.com

Jess' e-mail: FORWHLR@SABER.NET

Phone number: 530-877-2875

[8Runner]

That's a ballpark. The cutting & turning itself will only be $200-$300 + shipping. Before this though, I will need to remove everything and sandblast it. That is the labor intensive part and Will be $500 or so including putting it back on, unless I do it on this side with some of ya'lls help. Problem is this is my daily driver so I can't really afford to have it sit in my driveway. That means I most likely will have CAC do most of the work, as always.

Alternatively, I may be buying a new tow vehicle truck in the next few months, so this would allow me to have the truck sitting around for a bit longer.

[Doug Krebs]

The place that did my gears in houston 3 years ago said they cut and turned axles for $75 a side or maybe it was shortening. Anyways, you might give them a call. Texas Auto Gear and it was on west carby i think... I'll try to find more info on them.

[Violentv8toy]

Lets see what this results in. Could become a popular thread....

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=184244

[Doug Krebs]

That looks pretty easy to do Chris, maybe a weekend job. I'd help you, but all my equipment is 2 hours from college station since I graduated.

[8Runner]

This article is awesome (found it on the thread you suggested, Mario)

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/rotated_housing/

I think Lance & I could do this over the course of a couple days for relatively cheap. Unless someone in the club has the equipment & welding skills and wants to do it for beer one weekend, I will probably have Lance do it. A little pricier but I think he could do it over the course of a few days. Maybe he will do it on the cheap if I help him do it one Saturday.

[8Runner]

Hey Mario,
Since you are the master of searching over on Pirate, have you seen any pictures of core support trimming that I can take a look at?

[Violentv8toy]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=183075&highlight=radiator+mount

Theres a good thread that was started earlier this month. Its got some decent pictures. I like th way that the L-brackets were used. Mine are mounted on the front lip. Those are mounted on the back lip....making that radiator about 3-3.5" further forward.:cool:

:cheers:

[Violentv8toy]

jhama

[Doug Krebs]

Originally posted by 8Runner
This article is awesome (found it on the thread you suggested, Mario)

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/rotated_housing/

I think Lance & I could do this over the course of a couple days for relatively cheap. Unless someone in the club has the equipment & welding skills and wants to do it for beer one weekend, I will probably have Lance do it. A little pricier but I think he could do it over the course of a few days. Maybe he will do it on the cheap if I help him do it one Saturday.

I'd help you, but we'd have to find a free weekend for the both of us and as I said before it's 2 hours from college station.

[Violentv8toy]

I really suggest that you tear down the front almost completely like this and move it forward as much as possible.

Also, another tek tip:

Make a box frame of good thickish wood that is the size of the cooling area on the speedway radiator and put a back on it and cut out a hole like a speaker box that is missing a broad side. Cut out the taurus fan and put it in the hole and drill it to the box. Cover it with tape, then coat it in fiberglass hard stuff. Let it dry for a day and it makes a really kickass shroud. Then put L brackets on it to mount it to the radiator and get some more L brakets and mount it wherever you want.

EDIT: this in effect will cut down on the thickness ~4" of the taurus fan and will force air through your radiator.

that SHOULD cool it no matter what speed you're at.

[eight]

It has a square pan, so I guess a th350.

[Violentv8toy]

I don't think hes got a 350 cause hes got OD. I'm thinking its a 700r4 maybe.

What is it?:confused:

[StevenAg03]

700r4

[eight]

I was talkin about the transmission that my np203 is bolted too. I checked it. It is a th350 because it has a square pan with no diagnal. So my th350 version np203 and adapter would be what he would need if he did the doubler.