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View Full Version : Bender is going hydraulic!



Doug Krebs
12-01-2003, 12:08 PM
Bought this little guy off ebay. The guy said it puts out ~ 1.25 gpm. Should be fine for the bender. Going to use a 3" x 24" dual action cylinder and log splitter type valve. Pump should come in next week sometime.

After christmas hopefully I'll get started. Get a few more tools I need and then move up there.

jerryg79
12-01-2003, 02:03 PM
Only one exclamation point in the title....how disappointing!

Doug Krebs
12-01-2003, 02:50 PM
I hate you!!! There is that better?

jerryg79
12-01-2003, 03:14 PM
it's getting better, but there is still only one question mark in your response, have you lost your touch? Maybe throw a "suposively" in there!!!!

Doug Krebs
12-01-2003, 04:35 PM
I was hoping coldpecker would chime in with his knowledge of hydraulics. I'm assuming the electric going to the center is some kinda solonoid valve. I'm wondering if there is a way I can rig it permanately open because I'm going to use a manual valve instead. I guess when I get the thing I'll know for sure.

eight
12-01-2003, 06:48 PM
I don't know what that is. Doesn't look like it will do any good for you. I bet it will just unscrew.

chevsu
12-01-2003, 08:01 PM
is that motor for 110 or 480 volts?

Doug Krebs
12-02-2003, 09:18 AM
it's for 110, a representative from the company saw it on ebay and indentified for the guy, but I only got this information after i won the damn thing.

Oh well, hopefully I can use it, I should be able to, I might have to use it with a pull back spring. I emailed the company and asked them a bunch of questions, I'll report back.

Doug Krebs
12-02-2003, 09:42 AM
Damn guy already emailed me back. It's a power up/gravity down system. Kinda frustrated because I'll have to use a spring to pull it back, but I guess it's not the end of the world.

eight
12-02-2003, 11:57 AM
Its just a pump. That valve is what makes it power up/gravity down. Remove the valve and connect a hose where it was and run that to an open center 4 way spool valve. Valve gots 4 ports. One is for fluid from the pump, one is for return to the reservior, the other 2 are the working ports to hook to the cylinder. When the pump is on and you're not bending the fluid will flow though the valve and back to the reservior. When you push the lever, the spool valve directs the pressure to one side of the cylinder, and opens the other side of the cylinder back to the return. You will leave the pump on between bends. Will work just like your tractor. Fluid is allways flowing when the motor is on, it just flows back to the reservior whe the lever is in the centered position, which is the transmission on a tractor. And it only has a load when you push the lever.

Right now the pump is probably set up to run something like an auto lift. On those, the pump is connected to the cylinder and turns on and off to lift or not. And the valve is to bleed the fluid back to the tank so it can lower.

Edit: Corrected

Doug Krebs
12-02-2003, 12:11 PM
Yeah I did some researching and figured out you could do that. Went to www.howstuffworks.com I just didn't understand how the spool valve works.

Thanks for helping ryan. The pump cost me 110 shipped, hopefully it will work. If that is the case it will cost me about 300 total.

Graystroke
12-02-2003, 12:57 PM
Is $300 cheaper than buying what you really need? If not, I would clen thee POS up, paint it and re-list it on EBAY as a lift pump for a car hoist. It does look like a pump off a 4 post lift.

Doug Krebs
12-02-2003, 01:17 PM
I'm talking 300 for everything including the pump, ram, hoses, and spool valve.

110 for pump
100 for expensive ram 60 for cheap one (haven't figured out the diff between the two)
60 for the spool valve brand new, looking at used ones on ebay
30-50 for hose and fittings

So around 300 for everything maybe 350 if i have to buy the rest new.

fbronco86
12-02-2003, 01:19 PM
Originally posted by Doug Krebs
I'm talking 300 for everything including the pump, ram, hoses, and spool valve.

110 for pump
100 for expensive ram 60 for cheap one (haven't figured out the diff between the two)
60 for the spool valve brand new, looking at used ones on ebay
30-50 for hose and fittings

So around 300 for everything maybe 350 if i have to buy the rest new.

some place you need to have a tank.

Doug Krebs
12-02-2003, 01:28 PM
Originally posted by fbronco86
some place you need to have a tank.

Yes there is a resevoir (sp?) on the motor. Look at the picture of what i bought at the top.

Doug Krebs
12-02-2003, 01:33 PM
Originally posted by eight
The pump has a tank built on.


Where you getting that cylinder for $60 doug?

Ok ryan since I know jack about cylinder's, help me out.

Why can't i use this one?? Is it to hard to mount? Cheap??

Cheap one (http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2003120213284263&item=9-6070-324&catname=hydraulic)

Here is the more expensive one that most people seem to use.

More expensive (http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2003120213284263&item=9-4302-24&catname=hydraulic)

Then there is

Thicker rod (http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2003120213284263&item=9-5269-24&catname=hydraulic)

Seems most go with the 2nd one. Some people even go with a 36 inch long one.

fbronco86
12-02-2003, 01:40 PM
the first one looks like a pos. that thing just looks cheap.

eight
12-02-2003, 02:04 PM
Different brands. They'd all mount the same. The last one not only has a bigger rod but can take 3000 psi while the others are 2500 psi. You probably won't give em more than 2500 psi so it won't matter. The spool valve has the pressure releif valve in it and most are adjustable. The bigger rod really doesn't make any difference for this application. Will just make it retract faster. I'd get the cheap one.

chevsu
12-02-2003, 02:51 PM
you need a open center valve to let the fluid flow all the time. a closed center won't let the fluid flow when not using the valve. if the pump is still pumping and can't flow then its going to build up pressure. pressure leads to heat and then it could boil over.

eight
12-02-2003, 03:12 PM
Cody's right.

I described open center and said closed center.

uglyota
12-02-2003, 03:23 PM
Hey...new idea! OBB-On Board Bender
You could run the 110 off your Kopecki-style OBW, mount the pump under the seat so itll keep yer arse warm in the winter, and wet and greasy when that honda hoist starts leaking. Mount the bender to the bed (or framerails, or whatever you end up with in back), run your forced articulation, steering, and bender off the same pump and fluid and watch the ladies swoon! :D
Jeez what does it take to stir up some **** around here?!

Doug Krebs
12-02-2003, 03:33 PM
I will already have a belt driven pump to power the steering and hydraulics if I go that route. If I don't go forced articulation I will use a powersteering pump for the hydro steer and then maybe I could mount it on my seat with a little double action ram to stroke my...

Doug Krebs
12-02-2003, 03:47 PM
Here are my new open spool valve options that are cheap

# 1 (http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2003120215384271&item=9-1262&catname=hydraulic)

# 2 (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&langId=-1&catalogId=4006970&PHOTOS=on&TEST=Y&productId=37216&categoryId=1503)


anyone else have hydraulic supply links besides northern or surplus center?

Doug Krebs
12-23-2003, 05:58 PM
Allrighty, all the crap is on the way, hoses, ram, valve, and reducer's. I've got $330 total into the hydraulic part including the motor and pump. I'll probably build the cart and put it together the weekend after new years. I'll post pic's after I'm done!