Bvd

[Chadnutz]

cannot work with foreign driveshafts because they don't have the parts they need to hook the shafts up to their machinery.

[BigRedFord04]

WTF? thats horse****. what the hell is the difference on that ghey foriegn crap that they cant make you driveshafts? are your shafts octagons that use 5 sided u-joints? :rainbow: seriously...wtf? tubing, welding, balancing. why is it not all the same?

[uglyota]

Are you trying to lengthen and they don't carry metric tubing?
I've got a spare extra long rear driveshaft if you wanna try that.

[Chadnutz]

They said they don't have the capacity to hook metric ujoints up to their equipment which is, I guess, how they do it.

I just wanted them to make the shaft between the cases.

I'm using High Dollar Drivelines for the shafts. I don't want to hear any **** about it either.

[uglyota]

Originally posted by Chadnutz
I'm using High Dollar Drivelines for the shafts. I don't want to hear any **** about it either.
No ****...I'm jealous. I thought you were still working out your wheelbase, though? I'd hate to have to cut up a $400 driveshaft.

[Chadnutz]

Wheelbase will stay as it is.

I cut the case. Tomorrow it will be welded back together. I'm not going to mount the second case until I get the mini shaft. All I have to do right now is get the shafts made and get the Mazda tcase back in and make two crossmembers.

Of course there is the flat bed and bumper but those won't take much time. 3 weekends left....

[CRaSHnBuRN]

The metric ujoint thing is bull****. Get on pirate and find out the part # for the yota to domestic crossover u-joint, and then kick BVD in the butt and tell them to get to work.

As for the HA driveshafts, they are works of art. I love mine. But let me tell you something that may save you some cash. Don't get the HA driveshafts till your truck is finished and been run a few times. Alot could still change. You may decide you don't like the long wheelbase as much, or the whole tcase idea may not work or be strong enough. Plus lets not forget springs sagging. And the costs start to add up fast when you have to keep changing things. And believe me, I have experience here. I've already changed things once with the dual cases, and may soon change again if I add a drivetrain lift. Right now the only thing holding me back is the cost of lengthening the driveshafts (and I only have one HA shaft). My suggestion, build a reciver tubing front driveshaft, and sleeve the rear with some 2.5 sch40. I think that is the size that works nicely. Eight has a chart somewhere with the ID on it. And if you have access to a lathe, you could possibly get it to balance out very nicely, considering others are just dropping the ends in and welding them on with good results. Then, when everything is finished and proved itself on the trail, you can either keep what you have or buck up for the HA stuff and keep your old ones as spares.

[Violentv8toy]

I heard you say before that the mazda won't be for around town a while back. (hell i'd drive it around though)

Why don't you save yourself a buck (400) and do them yourself? I've welded a couple of shafts....seen plenty of shafts welded....helped do plenty of shafts. All you have to do is stick the ends in....micromanage the straightness of it. Double check then triple check that the end is in straight. Set it down and look at it for 10 minutes until you'd bet the farm that it was straight. Then weld that sucker up tight and grind down the weld just so its like a symmetrical ring. If you don't grind it down, any offending beads will throw it off. This is how i did mine (and i actually put a domestic end in which doesn't fit very well) and it doesn't vibrate at all and i've had it up to 60.

If you're a jackass that can't see if your ends are straight and can't weld, yeah, your shaft will turn out to vibrate at high speeds.
(and its hard to be a jackass cause not even mine vibrate)

EDIT: as for the crossover u-joint...you can find them at napa or o reilys in their books pretty easily. You just need to know your part of the cross section.

[aggielr]

haven't ya'll figured out that he doesn't listen very well?? i'm 100% sure we've all told him to do this before, but its not your $$, so let it go :flipoff2:

to add some, yea, if you have a lathe, you should be able to get it within .08 runout, and spinnin it as fast as the lathe would turn, it had no vibes, the square one on the front is another story, but who gives a **** w/ manual hubs

[Violentv8toy]

Originally posted by aggielr
haven't ya'll figured out that he doesn't listen very well?? i'm 100% sure we've all told him to do this before, but its not your $$, so let it go :flipoff2:


It just breaks my heart to see someone blow big money on a driveshaft. :flipoff2:

Seriously, in my opinion, shafts are probably the biggest money eater in the sport of 4wheelin' that doesn't have to be.

[Graystroke]

...Or just get it done outside of this town. I had one made for $150 in Fort Worth

[aggielr]

i just want to see a gawddamn mazda on the trail, i don't give a **** if it has solid titanium driveshafts, but for the love of god just WHEEL the damn thing

[bburris]

Originally posted by Graystroke
...Or just get it done outside of this town. I had one made for $150 in Fort Worth

I suggest you follw this route...

I don't even want to get started about what I think of High Angle Driveline. I'll just say that I know for a fact that you can get the exact same shaft made by any competent driveshaft shop for a much better price. His 'patents' are bull chit.

[Violentv8toy]

Originally posted by bburris
I suggest you follw this route...

I don't even want to get started about what I think of High Angle Driveline. I'll just say that I know for a fact that you can get the exact same shaft made by any competent driveshaft shop for a much better price. His 'patents' are bull chit.


But...but....his shafts are camo-proof.:flipoff2:

I do agree with you. I needed to go from my toy shaft to the 1310 yoke on my 205...and i wanted to use the bastard u-joints so that i could get the shaft on and running for 30 bux. He tried so hard to get me to buy his 205-toy flange and wouldn't give me the pn for the crossover joint cause the 'casting' was cheap.

[bburris]

He is definately a salesman. He told me that the TeraFlex heavy duty short shaft kit was "China crap" and that the Advance Adapters one that he sells is way better. I went for it after he said he'd give it to me for $20 off, and since I had the $200 off from Pirate. My shaft and 1350 CV flange still ended up costing about what I could have gotten two shafts made locally for.

[Violentv8toy]

Originally posted by bburris
He is definately a salesman. He told me that the TeraFlex heavy duty short shaft kit was "China crap" and that the Advance Adapters one that he sells is way better. I went for it after he said he'd give it to me for $20 off, and since I had the $200 off from Pirate. My shaft and 1350 CV flange still ended up costing about what I could have gotten two shafts made locally for.

Funny, thats what he said about the bastard u-joints. Called em 'crap' and 'cheesy'. He said its better for me to keep the toy u-joints because they run at a better angle and are supposedly stronger....which i suppose is true, but spending 145 bux for a flange that i don't need is crazy. He also tried to do the same for my front shaft to my D44. Instead, now i use all simple 1310 joints with the exception of the far rearward toyota joint....which i am totally happy with. Total cost - 52 bux for straps and u-bolts and a really nice cv to set up both my shafts.

[Chadnutz]

I read the three pages of this (http://maps.yahoo.com/maps_result?ed=M7tNO.p_0TqT&csz=mason%2C+tx&country=us) thread asking which drive shaft shop was the best and HAD won hands down. No one had anything bad to say about him or his work except one guy that bitch even though he hadn't ever told Jesse that the shaft didn't work....

Without using square tubing I can't make enough slip. I make $100/day so every 8 hours I spend working on something I could have made $100. If I can make some POS drive shafts (3) in less than 4 days (it would be close), then I'd have some POS drive shafts and I would have saved $50.... I'd rather go with a proven and quality drive shaft made by a professional with national recognition in a shop with machines meant for building drive shafts and the supplies needed for making them. I am not a Jew. There are corners I won't cut. My truck will be in Mason next month. End of story.

[BigRedFord04]

i've had to have my rear driveshaft fixed twice. both times at seguin alternator and drivetrain. the 1st time it cost all of $62 for a new tube and balancing. the 2nd time i had it shortened to fit the D60, it cost like $115 because he asked if i wanted him to press the u-joints in, i said sure, and he charged me $8 a piece. also charge me like $16 for a u-joint i could've gotten for $8 at the parts store, and another $25 for a flange for a bigger joint, which i didnt mind spending. they're a really good shop in a friggin' podunk town. save yourself the $$ and have them make it. not that hard. tell them which u-joints you want to fit, how long, and maybe ship them your slip yokes. all that will still be cheaper than that other crap.

[bburris]

Originally posted by Chadnutz
I read the three pages of this (http://maps.yahoo.com/maps_result?ed=M7tNO.p_0TqT&csz=mason%2C+tx&country=us) thread asking which drive shaft shop was the best and HAD won hands down. No one had anything bad to say about him or his work except one guy that bitch even though he hadn't ever told Jesse that the shaft didn't work....

The link you posted is a map to Mason...:flipoff2:

I think I know what thread you're talking about, if it's on Pirate. The reason no one says anything bad on Pirate is because he gets so much business there and does the giveaway every month. No one wants to picc him off, and he's befriended enough of the competetion guys there by sponsoring them that they speak up for him. If you search around for what comp. guys are running you'll find that they either get sponsored by him and get free shafts, or they go to their local driveshaft shop and pay for their own.

If you go to JU and search around, you'll find that everyone likes to suck Tom Wood's cack because he posts there and caters to them well.

If you want to spend your money on a High Angle shaft then go right ahead, but make sure you get a definite build time from Jess and make sure he tells you when it's going to get shipped out. That was my first beef with him. I called and asked when it would be shipped out. I called on a thursday and he was leaving the next day. He said he'd ship out the SYE ASAP and the shaft would be built when he got back. The SYE didn't ship until I called the next week, and the shaft held up progress on my Jeep for three days while I was waiting on it.

The packaging he sent it in was AWESOME. It was this huge tube with pieces of plywood screwed into the ends to keep everything from sliding around. I had to use a drill to get the screws out. I was really happy about how well everything was protected considering the fact that my UPS guy drops **** all the time.

I opened it up and the shaft was huge. I was sort of impressed, but it seemed like any other shaft I'd ever seen. The CV isn't as "High Angle" and people say. It maxes out easy. The slip shaft that I was told would be "extra long slip" is all of about 4 inches. I know I probably won't need it since my rear suspension pivots at the pinion, so the shaft will never really fully compress/extend, but I wanted what we talked about.

I started looking at the shaft more and more, and realized that it looked somewhat familiar. I said, wait a minute... I go to Car Quest and Paul and I started looking around in the driveshaft book. Then I went and looked under a vehicle that one of the driver's has. It turns out that the High Angle one ton 1350 bad mother ****er patented shaft is complete horse ****. It's a stock shaft that anyone can buy from Car Quest or from this particular vehicle company. The flange that he sells as having a patent on is the flange off the transfer case of this vehicle, but it's been machined down a little to go into an NP231 t-case output.

I got prices on the shaft from Car Quest. I think it was ~$90. Called a driveshaft shop. ~$80 to cut a shaft down, ~$100 to re-tube one - I think those prices include re-balancing it. I could have built it for ~$200 total to any length I wanted and not have gotten a shaft that was about an inch shorter than I needed it. Paul, Blake and I may open up an internet based business and this will definately be one of our products. Hell, we could charge $100 less than Jess and still turn a huge profit.

[Chadnutz]

I DO NOT HAVE THE MEANS TO ADD ENOUGH SLIP IN THE FRONT UNLESS I USE SQUARE TUBING.

There, it's all spelled out in capital letters. The rear shaft is going to cost 1something and the front will cost 2something. I am sending him used front toyota shafts to work with. It's not like I am giving him my first born or one of my nutz. :flipoff2:

[bburris]

Originally posted by Chadnutz
I DO NOT HAVE THE MEANS TO ADD ENOUGH SLIP IN THE FRONT UNLESS I USE SQUARE TUBING.

There, it's all spelled out in capital letters. The rear shaft is going to cost 1something and the front will cost 2something. I am sending him used front toyota shafts to work with. It's not like I am giving him my first born or one of my nutz. :flipoff2:

THEN WHY DON'T YOU USE FAWKING SQUARE TUBE THEN?

It will be cheaper that $200-something, and I bet you could even get someone with a welder to make it for you so you don't have to waste any of your precious time.

[Violentv8toy]

For the record, i wasn't bashing High Angle Driveline....or any driveline shop for that matter.

But my point is that my shafts in my application will last just as long as anyone elses....they'll run at 70 miles an hour just as good as anyone elses.....they'll fit just as good as anyone elses...and they'll hold up just as good as anyone elses.....

.....and if they don't....i'll put some .188 or .250 if i'm feeling squirrly and weld them in for the cost of the tube and keep wheelin and spend my money on burritos and beer.

:cheers:

EDIT: hey nutz...why don't you grab yourself slip from TSC and use that for your slip? its 10" long. A friend of mine (pavement_pounder on pirate) did it for his toy shaft...i could get pics.

[BigRedFord04]

for the record, i WAS bashing High Angle Driveline, not because they sell bad products, but it seems that they are rediculously overpriced for what you get. you buying from them just because they are popular doesnt make them the best, it makes you a sheep.

[bburris]

well said Austin:cheers:

[aggielr]

Originally posted by Chadnutz
There are corners I won't cut. My truck will be in Mason next month. End of story.

I sure hope so, cause if it's not, you are going to get HAMMERED on, you've talked a lot of **** for the last 6 months and spent some $$, so we better see it.

[Chadnutz]

I haven't talked ****. I haven't said my truck was better than anyone's. I didn't say I was better than anyone. I merely said it would be there.

[redcagepatrol]

I make all my shafts.

When I was young and dumb, I actually PAID someone to shorten, lengthen, retube shafts - stupidist mistake ever...

Nutz, what about the long travel kit from All-Pro? I know that Jason Marek used it for his. He has also made some from leftover tractor parts (shreader shafts).

Why do you have so much slip in the front? Are you SURE you can't make it with the standard 4" slip? Don't tell me that you READ somewhere that you will need it or that everybody else does it so you need to do it too. There are alot of people out there with more money than brains...

I would spend 30 minutes of your time, make a quick front shaft with the stock slip, test it and see if it slips out. Remember, the only chance it will have slipping out is when both front tires bounce off the ground - something that only happens in violent ledge climbs.

If you need help on how to make a quick shaft, call me and I can tell you how. It shouldn't take any time at all.

Before I lengthened my spare, it would slip apart, but then I lengthened it so that there was only about .5 in of compression at ride height. It works well and doesn't bottom out either. edit: it uses the stock slip

[Doug Krebs]

I agree with all that is said above, you can make your own driveshafts pretty easy. Kopecki re/over tubed his driveshaft in our drive way before springbreak last year. He eyeballed everything, then gave it a couple decent tack welds. Then he did the craziest **** of all, put the rear end on jack stands, bolted in the shaft, and ran the jeep up to 60 or 70. I could just see the ****er shaking itself off the jack stands and going through our neighbors house!

Oh well, point is it worked, and it worked well!

For long slip do what scott said, use PTO slip shafts. The brush hog shaft on our tractor can slip for at least 18" and it's not going to break either.

[Violentv8toy]

I don't think that the stock shaft has enough travel. I'm running a 6" slip chevy shaft and I have to be careful not to droop the passenger side too too much cause it will slip out. These are with stock waggies, and the 44044s flex just as much or more.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=196269&highlight=drew+slip

This is probably the route that i'll go. If you wanna talk to drew, he'll hook u up with pictures.

[redcagepatrol]

I still don't think that you need more than 4" if you are set-up right. Look how much my rear flexes, it's a stock slip. I am willing to bet that my front doesn't slip any more than 4" either. It used too when I had too much lift and a low pinion, but now my d-shaft is only at a slight angle.

damage from the last katemcy trip...

[Chadnutz]

The one thing I have going for me is that my front drive shaft is going to be long so the angle won't be too bad. I'll run some quick calculations but I still think you are all a bunch of ****ers. :flipoff2:

[Chadnutz]

So I laid all 4 driveshafts I have on the floor and pondered on a way to make a short shaft to go between the cases. One must have a Toyota flange bolt pattern and one must have a Mazda one. I think this is something I can do. I will also make the other shafts. I don't need much slip because the front drive shaft is going to be damn near as long as the rear drive shaft was because I can't make a short shaft as short as i had originally envisioned. Each yoke is about 3" long plus I need slip so rather than 6" it is going to be closer to 8-10". I am going to continue to seek a way to do it myself however. I guess being in such a Jewish club as this I might save a few pennies here and there. :flipoff2:

[Violentv8toy]

If you don't want to cut into one of your long shafts, I've got a good toyota flange/ujoint with about 5 inches of toy tube that i cut off my original shaft and replaced that you can have to make the short intermediate shaft.

[Chadnutz]

In town? Free?

[Violentv8toy]

I'll be in college station at about 4pm thursday. PM me your number and i'll call you when i get in.

Yes free.