grinding question

[Shaggy]

i am trying to cut the welds off my rear bumper so that i can get rid of it.... it is welded to the frame. i grinded on it where the grinder could reach... how would you suggest getting the rest out,.... here are a few pics

[Shaggy]

passanger side

[Shaggy]

driver side

[Shaggy]

it is stick welded and the penetration is very good... i dont think fat people jumping on it is a possibility

[robertf03]

cut the bracket in half with a torch/plasma/sawzall, then grind the rest off with the bumper out of the way.

[bburris]

cut part of your frame off with it...not like you haven't broken other parts of your frame off already:flipoff2:

:laughing:

[Shaggy]

the sawzall i want they wont have for a couple more days a sears... i want to do this tomorrow... i guess i am gonna cut the frame...it isnt that big of a deal i guess. i might just buy the one that is $20 more... it is half an amp higher and has everything else the same... i guess half an amp is worth 20 bones... who knows.... i just want to make some progress soon

[JB]

i have a 6.5 amp craftsmans saawzall you can borrow. It would need new blades though.

[bburris]

Which sawzall are you looking at? I just got an 8.0 amp for Christmas. There's a 9.0 amp on sale, but it doesn't have the adjustable speed dial.

The 9.0 amp (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00926600000)

I think this is like mine. (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00917173000)

The one I got works great, and cuts body panels like butta' even with the crappy blades that came with it.

[Shaggy]

i just told jayson to pick me one up when he gets off work... it is a 10.5 amp porter cable or something like that... it is $119 and he gets i think 10% off so that should cover tax and what not... so about 110-115

[Shaggy]

where should i get sawzall blades... i got a 5 pack of craftsman ones at sears for 10.99... i say way over priced... i burnt 3 up already cutting one side and it still has a bit to go... the ones i got are 18 teath per inch... what are the best to use... Austin said something like 22 or something work better... but i didnt see those... i shut down when the cop car rolled by... we got em minors at the casa tonight and i dont have a clean wrap sheat. where can i get and what blades for cheaper than this

[bburris]

Go to Home Depot and get the Milwaukee "The Torch" blades. Those things will cut through anything, including a 70's one ton Chevy truck frame - your frame shouldn't be any stronger than that.

[TXsizeK5]

try Home Depot...?

--looks like brett beat me to the punch.

[uglyota]

Go to Home Depot and get a fistful of blu-mol aggressors...white ones with a red cross on them.
Tonight I cut a piece of 4" wide 1/2" thick steel in about a minute.
That should take care of your frame, or bumper (whichever is more convenient :D )
they're still $2 a piece, but Milwaukee's blades (The Torch) are $3 each and only come in 5-packs

Edit: stoopid dial-up!
I burned through 3 "the Torch" blades trying to cut a yota frame in half...never got through it...must be made of Kryptonite or something! :D

[Shaggy]

what tooth count should i use... austin said that the 18 per inch would cut through thicker material better than it was cutting through my ****... it actually cut better/faster when it hit the frame. i cut the bumper bracket and then it hit the frame about half way down and the blade didnt burn up hardly as fast.

[AgDieseler]

For mild steel that is pretty thick, 18 tpi and 14 tpi work really well. For thin steel like 16 gauge that is a bit more sensitive, 24 tpi is nice.

[redcagepatrol]

you guys are crazy to use a sawzaw, just use a torch, cut the bracket in half where you can reach it and then go back and cut it again (at the frame or wherever)

Nobody wants that bumper - just cut it up till you can get at it:D

[Cajun]

Originally posted by redcagepatrol
you guys are crazy to use a sawzaw, just use a torch, cut the bracket in half where you can reach it and then go back and cut it again (at the frame or wherever)

Nobody wants that bumper - just cut it up till you can get at it:D

W3RD! :D

[BigRedFord04]

I know a guy in waco that wants it... and btw scott not all of us have torches...

-tate (my computer took a crap on my chest)

[uglyota]

I've got a torch right now (for the next few days)
bring 'er over!

[Shaggy]

i got it off now... i got some 24 tpi blades and didnt even burn up one doing it... ill put up pics later... if anyone wants to help out ill be at it all day... i am cutting the fenders as soon as i figure out how i want it

[Shaggy]

i learned in fender cutting that you should take less off first and then go back and cut the rest... lets just say that the first part looks crappy... i also learned that i cut way straighter with a cutting wheel on the grinder than with the sawzall... all i have done so far is the back section behind the rear tirewell on the passanger side... i guess i can just say it was messed up already... that is where dave backed his trailor into it:D

[Shaggy]

this is what i got cut on the bumper last night

[Shaggy]

Bumper cut off

[Shaggy]

piece of the bumper still on the frame

[Shaggy]

Bumper

[Shaggy]

fender before cut

[Shaggy]

Fender after first part of cutting

[Shaggy]

i cut the outer fender and tore the spot welds with pulling and a big hammer... i am trying to figure out how to get this piece of inner fender out

[Shaggy]

Cut the inner fender piece out

[Shaggy]

Ground it to a nice looking finish

[Shaggy]

alright it is 9:25 am and i am starting or the day on the bronco... all are welcome to come by and help... or just come by and drink beer and watch... give me a call on my cell i you havent been here be ore damn a key on my keyboard stoped workin... it is the one between the d and g

[Shaggy]

driver side only took me about an hour... it is amazing how much aster it is when you have already igured it out on one side... i guess i am gonna start on the transmission... hopeully all goes well

[Shaggy]

here is what it looks like with the 35 on... i still need to cut the Front Fenders but havent Figured out how i want them yet

[Shaggy]

the damn long tube headers are gonna make the transmission Fix hard... so i decided to see what one oF doug's 38.5's looked like on there... i think that as soon as i have the 60 in the Front that i would rather have some 38.5's not 37's

[Cajun]

Looks good man!

[uglyota]

I say cut off the rest of that lip and go 39.5 IROKs!
What's the plan for the new bumper? Tube or square? Wraparound?

Sweet

[uglyota]

cut it some more! This is what I'd do...

[robertf03]

hows the solid axle swap going?

[Shaggy]

i was considering doing that rear cut already... but i havent decided For sure iF i want to do that yet... i do like the way that Front line is drawn and i think i might just cut it that way... and 39.5 IROKs do sound cool... i need to get a 60 in the Front beFore i start thinking about that though.
the plans For the bumper are going to be tubing... i am going to incorporate the bumpers into the exocage... but this is in the Future... i am gonna wheel it without a bumper For the time being.

[Shaggy]

the solid axle swap hasnt started yet... i need to locate an axle... i need a 78-79 dana 60... austin said that you can put radius arms on them... newer years i would have to set up a 3-link

[BigRedFord04]

i guess you never notice how much you use the letter F until you have to put it in caps all the time :flipoff2:

[JB]

It looks damn good. I say stop cutting if you are going to go with the 38s though, otherwise, i think it will look like you need bigger.

[robertf03]

Originally posted by Shaggy
the solid axle swap hasnt started yet... i need to locate an axle... i need a 78-79 dana 60... austin said that you can put radius arms on them... newer years i would have to set up a 3-link

44's are easy to find, just get one and then you can use the suspension stuff off of it when you find a 60

[Cajun]

You can put radius arms on any Ford 60, but a pre-86 would be better 'cause the spring perch width is 31.5". 86 and later have 36.5" wide spring perches. The narrower width would give you more room between the pumpkin and knuckle on the driver's side. James had coils on the '86 I bought from him, so I'd find a 60 first and build suspensions later.

I don't see your tail lights surviving long without some kind of rear bumper. That corner takes one good drop on a rock and the light's toast.

[uglyota]

Originally posted by Cajun
I don't see your tail lights surviving long without some kind of rear bumper. That corner takes one good drop on a rock and the light's toast.
yeah, besides just having something to put your hi-lift on.
Look through the scrap at Bryan Iron and find some ghettorific piece of pipe you could zap on for a temp

[Broncocustom]

Originally posted by Cajun
You can put radius arms on any Ford 60, but a pre-86 would be better 'cause the spring perch width is 31.5". 86 and later have 36.5" wide spring perches. The narrower width would give you more room between the pumpkin and knuckle on the driver's side. James had coils on the '86 I bought from him, so I'd find a 60 first and build suspensions later.


I agree with Andy. If you limit your self to 78-79 d60 you might be looking for awile since everyone else wants that same axle. Mine came off a '88 F-350 and I just made my own radius arms and brackets for that axle. I know for sure up until '88 they were still using king pin axles and I think they did not change over to ball joints until '92.

[Shaggy]

First oF all i am using paste on all the F's the key is broke


second i already have a 44 but dont wanna waist the time putting it in iF i am gonna put in a 60

and third i went and got some steel to build a bumper it is 2x6x1/4 wall... i wanted 2x5 but would have had to order it... noone had any in stock

[stx4wheeler]

well if i were you i would not use a 78-79 60 front because if you do then you definately cant run your 15 inch wheels, if you want to run the 60 with 15 inch rims on a newer model 60 you still haveto sand or grinda little off of the center of the brake caliper to make them fit good.

[JB]

you can run 15s on 78-79 60s. just run less then 2.5in of backspacing.

[Cajun]

Originally posted by Broncocustom
...Mine came off a '88 F-350...

Damn, I don't even know what year the axle under my junk is!:laughing:

[bburris]

Originally posted by JBrown89
you can run 15s on 78-79 60s. just run less then 2.5in of backspacing.

Blake's hummer wheels turn just fine with everything together

[bburris]

Originally posted by Cajun
Damn, I don't even know what year the axle under my junk is!:laughing:

You can run the BOM here:

http://www2.dana.com/Expert/

[Shaggy]

well aFter i got the material For the bumper i took a nap.. then austin got home and we made some more progress... we unbolted the driver side header and transmission crossmember and pulled the pan... the gasket was a little hard in places and had one questionable corner... i also pulled the Filter out because who knows when the next time i am gonna have it apart. hopeFully with a new gasket on the pan it wont leak anymore... i dont know where the leak was originating but i think it might be there.

we plan to build the new rear bumper this weekend along with a rear shackle Flip

[Cajun]

Originally posted by bburris
Blake's hummer wheels turn just fine with everything together

They're also 16.5" wheels.

[JB]

Originally posted by Cajun
They're also 16.5" wheels.

What he said.

[AgDieseler]

For fitting 15" wheels over single piston calipers, here's a good tech writeup.

http://www.coloradok5.com/d60calipergrind.shtml

[bburris]

Originally posted by Cajun
They're also 16.5" wheels.

brain fart

[Shaggy]

well the transmission went back together today... it doesn't leak either... i got to drive it For the First time since august tonight... sucked that i dont have lights but it was still cool... hopeFully tomorrow it wont have a puddle under it...
tomorrow morning i am gonna change the oil and maby start on the rear shackle Flip beFore work... still gotta do that and build a rear bumper and Fix the Front axle... time better slow down i really cannot miss this trip... ill be there in 3wd iF i have to

[Shaggy]

well the transmission works perFectly and we started on a bumper... i hope to Finish it tonight... this is what it looks like right now... it still needs the sides boxed in and the rock sliders welded on

[Shaggy]

I also have to Figure out how we are gonna Fix where we mismeasured the holes... the driver side bracket is 1/4 inch oFF too so i need to grind the weld oFF and redo it... i also have a reciever hitch piece that needs to be put in... we have to drill hole and hope we can cut it correct


Measure once... cut twice

[uglyota]

Nice!

is the bumper where it needs to be right now, and the holes in the wrong place?
Are you sandwiching the frame (with a plate on the other side)?
I'd just drill the frame to match the holes in the bumper, then make plates for the nut side out of 1/4" steel. (Drill them using the bumper as a template.)
On your receiver, are you using a storebought one? Make sure you mount it so the pin-hole is accessible.

[Shaggy]

ya it is sandwitching the frame ... i grinded the plate off and put it where it matches... the bumper is in the right place in that picture... i think drilling out the frame would leave too much of a tendency to slide... maby i weld it on in places that are accessable too

[Doug Krebs]

Originally posted by Shaggy
ya it is sandwitching the frame ... i grinded the plate off and put it where it matches... the bumper is in the right place in that picture... i think drilling out the frame would leave too much of a tendency to slide... maby i weld it on in places that are accessable too

Both my bumpers are bolted to my blazer and the bolts have never been the cause of the bumper moving. Now ****ty arc welding and the fram bending may cause the bumper to move!!

[stx4wheeler]

you had time to mess with the rock sliders for the bumper yet or is that this weekends project.

[Shaggy]

i have to finish boxing it in before i can put the rock sliders on... austin brought home the rest of the metal i need so ill work on it tomorrow

[Shaggy]

i finished the fabrication on it... accept the reciever... still need to do that... i also need to clean up some of the welds and paint it... it is gonna have a sweat ass paintjob

[Shaggy]

2

[Shaggy]

Drilled the starter holes for the hitch

[Shaggy]

got hitch in

[Shaggy]

Ugly welded it... but it seems to be in there good... welded front and back

[Shaggy]

what it looks like now... need to paint it and put it on now... i am gonna need help putting it on because of the rock sliders

[Shaggy]

I tested it out... it works great, although you have to hit the pin with a hammer a little to get it in and out

[Chadnutz]

Why didn't you just use a plasma cutter? :flipoff2:\

JK man, looks good.

[Shaggy]

my plasma cutter is in waco... doesnt really matter i got this to work... i caught my jeans on fire when welding too.. didnt notice till one of my legs was starting to hurt like hell

[uglyota]

Originally posted by Shaggy
Ugly welded it...
No I didn't :D
Looks good man :cheers:

[Shaggy]

sorry... i should have said "I ugly welded it"

[Shaggy]

look what i have now... should have gotten it a couple weeks ago... oh well:D