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View Full Version : Engine Cooling - Worthwhile responses only please



Chadnutz
06-10-2002, 12:58 PM
For about 3.5 years now my water gauge has been reading higher than it did when I first got the truck. Not only does it read higher, but it gets higher and lower with any change in conditions. It never used to move around, and all other cars I have driven in have guages that stay in one spot no matter what condition they are in.

I have 2 electric fans that blow a lot of air.
Thermostat - 195 deg (correct, new)
Radiator Cap = 13 psi (correct)
No leaks
Full of water
New sending unit
Slightly corroded wire connecting to sending unit very loosely.
Did not lower radiator when put on body lift which puts it 3" higher relative to the motor as was before. Did not notice chang in guage until 6 months after body lift.

Symptoms -
Runs "hotter" on the highway (higher RPMs)
Runs "hotter" on hot days
Passenger side fan blows barely warm air, drivers side blows hot air. Radiator possible clogged (~4 years old) Water comes in top of passenger side, leaves bottom of drivers side.

Please help. I have been dealing with this problem for 4 years now. No one has been able to diagnose it. I don't know if it is the gauge or if it is actually running warm. I put an aftermarket gauge in the upper radiator hose and it reads 230 to 240 which seems pretty hot, although water does not boil over into the reservoir at this "temp". The factory gauge reads close to the top of normal where is used to read about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of normal.
Heater blows air over 200 degrees using turkey thermometer in the vent. Is this normal??

robertf03
06-10-2002, 01:21 PM
i'd get the radiator checked out, you just rebuilt that engine right? the engine went out in my dad's land rover and it overheated like crazy with the new engine until we had the radiator rodded.

You've got that smitty built bumper on the front right? do you think it started overheating when you put that on? Sometimes blocking any part of the radiator even with a small bumper can cause it to over heat, but I'd check the radiator first.

Krawler68
06-10-2002, 01:26 PM
prolly the radiator... has the truck overheated yet? have you had to actually stop the truck to get it to cool down? pull over or anything? I say put some tape over the gauge and drive it until steam comes out of the hood...

StevenAg03
06-10-2002, 10:22 PM
it might have a lot to do with the body lift and not moving the radiator. when they put the body lift on my truck, instead of moving the radiator and fan shroud, they just cut the bottom part of the shroud off. since then it runs a little bit hotter. however mine still uses the motor driven fan and not an electric fan.

i would take it and have the radiator flushed if i was you

Chadnutz
06-10-2002, 10:53 PM
I "flushed" the radiator once with some Prestone crap. It did not do anything. Upon checking again I found that both fans are blowing hot air. I have also put a water hose in the top and water came out the bottom just as fast as it had gone in. What is a good lifetime for a radiator?

Chadnutz
06-10-2002, 10:55 PM
Doug, I'm not risking my aluminum head to see where the gauge is when the motor boils over. I have already changed head gasket twice. Once when I thought it was leaking but it was a hose way up under the intake manifold, and once because I didn't clean off the head surface enough or buy new "stretching" $10/each head bolts the first time around.

robertf03
06-10-2002, 11:32 PM
i flushed the land rover with that same preston crap, tried water wetter, and got the flush kit where you cut a hose and hook up the garden hose

none of that helped at all, take it to a radiator shop and have it rodded

Broncocustom
06-11-2002, 10:51 AM
Take it to Bryan Radiators. They do good work that will not cost you alot. They cleaned the broncos radiator and welded the entire top back on for $20.

mark
06-11-2002, 11:09 AM
You can find out if the radiator is partially clogged by getting the truck good and hot. Then spray the front of the radiator with a hose. The sections of the radiator that work will evaporate the water quickly. The ones that are clogged will be much slower to evaporate the H2O. Either way, you'll know whats working.

When you spray the radiator, you should also see the engine temp come back down to the normal range if it is a radiator problem. Water cools more efficiently than air.

After that all that is left is the water pump.

BTW: One more stupid question. Are you sure that there is no air trapped in the system?

Chadnutz
06-11-2002, 04:35 PM
In the several times that I have changed coolant I have let the motor run to operating temperature before putting the cap back on. It should have released all of the air. Is there any way I can check for air in the system?

Chadnutz
06-11-2002, 04:38 PM
I also took it to some radiator shop near Bryan Drivetrain about a year ago to have the solder a hole shut in it. I don't remember if they flushed it or not, or if it is standard practice to flush any radiator they work on.

mark
06-11-2002, 04:47 PM
Some cooling systems, especially one from the Japs and Brits have areas in which air can be trapped. If so, they will have a plug that can be removed so that all the air can be let out of the system. It is unlikely that this is the case after 3.5 years, but it is something to look for. Check your owners manual for details.

Soldering a hole shut does not require the shop to dip the radiator. In fact some of us can fix hole in a radiator with little more than some Radio Shack solder and a camp stove. If you didn't pay more than $50 bucks, it was not dipped.

-Mark

Chadnutz
06-24-2002, 08:44 AM
My dad's friend (full time self employed mechanic) tested for combustion entering the coolant via a cracked head this weekend. You put this plastic thing over the fill spout on the radiator and pull air through this blue liquid from the radiator. If the blue liquid detects CO2 it turns yellow. Well, the thing was designed for a big cap and he was having trouble making a good seal. When he did the liquid started to turn green. Then the coolant expanded and got sucked up into the device. Anyway, the fact of the matter is that it was turning green which could indicate a cracked head.

As soon as I get my moms spare car back - the Cressida I used to have up here which needs a few minor repairs - I will pull the head off and take it to Vilas. I took it to Napa and had it "checked" once before and they said it was fine. This mechanic said they probably didn't check very hard for $25. The mechanics helper said his cousin or friend or someone welds cracks in heads. Mine is aluminum. No guarantees. It is possible? I know a full time fabricator on Riverside campus that owes me some time. If the head is cracked is it worth trying?

It would make sense that I have combustion since the heat goes up with RPMs, even as speed goes up and everything else has been checked.

stinger7401
06-26-2002, 10:37 PM
it's very possible that a cracked head would cause this problem but before i pulled the first bolt i'd make 100% sure that it is a cracked head by doing another test except with a little more accuracy. Make sure that if you do pull the head have them magna flux it and check for interal cracks. To have this done it wil run more than just a 25$ visual inspection like napa would do. Also make sure that it is not the radiator. We have seen cars come into our shop (mainly fords though) that are 5-6 years old and are over heating due to leftover casting residue (sand) from the block. This happened on more than one occasion.

On a side note, for everyone, we recieved information about a month ago that it is now recomended that you put distilled water back in you engine instead of just hose water. They say that the calcuim, lime, etc will get into your cooling system and with many of the new aluminum heads and cast blocks the deposits cause bad corrosion between the two.

BigRedFord04
06-29-2002, 07:30 PM
About a week ago i put a 4 core radiator on my truck...cost me $40 brand new w/ O'Reilly warranty :D. Now, even when i forget to turn the electric fans on it doesnt get hot :D :D ... only time it did before was in Llano in the sand, we'll see how it does next time.

bigFAWKINranger
07-01-2002, 02:26 PM
hey NUTZ, my two guesses would be waterpump, which was the problem with keeping the chevy cool- and at my old work, we had a problem with the forklifts over heating bc the water was boiling and evaporating and the radiator would be bone dry... i am sure you are, but if not, i recommend using coolant over water...:D :D

Chadnutz
07-08-2002, 12:11 PM
Took the head to Vilas today. First of all, do any of you have a problem with his people skills? He may know his machining, but he seems like a jerk. Anyway, the is beside the point.

Here is what I have...
A head that has been warped up to .007" at some time. The top of the head was used for reference. While the bottom is flat, all of the corners differ in thickness when measured from the bottom to the top. This is because Crapa (Napa) failed to straigten the head before resurfacing it. My brother also stripped out the threads on the #4 spark plus. I has a helicoil done at Bugge Clinic and the spark plus is like .5 cm up in its hole (not sticking out into the cylinder). I can pay $65 to have it checked and probably find that it fails, or I can pay $450 for a remanufactured head. It is sort of a gamble. The only other problem with the truck could be a cracked block. I don't notice any water in the oil, however. Such a gamble... I think I am just going to fork over the cash for a new head. What do y'all think?

StevenAg03
07-08-2002, 12:37 PM
just go buy a premium long block. it is a rebuilt engine...should take care of your woes...

bigFAWKINranger
07-08-2002, 01:19 PM
Originally posted by StevenAg03
just go buy a premium long block. it is a rebuilt engine...should take care of your woes...

my thoughts exactly... rebuild the ****er.

Chadnutz
07-08-2002, 02:28 PM
Rebuild a motor that was rebuilt barely over a year ago? The only problem with the lower half is that the oil pan gasket never sealed right and I have a slow leak.

Seems like a waste of money to me.

bigFAWKINranger
07-08-2002, 02:50 PM
Originally posted by Chadnutz
Rebuild a motor that was rebuilt barely over a year ago? The only problem with the lower half is that the oil pan gasket never sealed right and I have a slow leak.

Seems like a waste of money to me.

really?....seems like your motor's not running right to me.

if whoever rebuilt it couldn't even seal the damn pan on right, i'd wager there's other **** in there that ain't kosher.... i'd rebuild it all before you get roayally fawked

Krawler68
07-08-2002, 02:57 PM
Guess who the genius who rebuilt it was? :D :D It's a NUTZBUILT motor.

BigRedFord04
07-08-2002, 03:08 PM
...and i'll bet its about the same Kwality as Nix Kustoms Dum-Ass Exhaust...

bigFAWKINranger
07-08-2002, 03:19 PM
Originally posted by BigRedFord04
...and i'll bet its about the same Kwality as Nix Kustoms Dum-Ass Exhaust...

hey- you liked it on your truck alright damnit! and they went outta business... rumor has it even the owner of NIX Kustoms opted for a single chamber flowmaster with a 3" dump

Chadnutz
07-08-2002, 03:26 PM
No one is perfect. I'll take a leaking oil pan seal over other **** that could have gone wrong. As far as running goes, it runs perfect. It may run hot, but it starts instantly and never bogs. I get 16 mpg on highway going fast, and it is smooth. It idles right and it doesn't burn oil. I'm not going to replace the parts that work. A $2000 motor is a lot more expensive than a $425 head and some gaskets.

Krawler68
07-08-2002, 03:33 PM
these are true words... if it ain't broke don't fix it...


I say replace the head and quit bitching... do I bother you with my vehicles routine maintenance?

We should start a mazda maintenance section...would that keep you amused?

bigFAWKINranger
07-08-2002, 05:53 PM
Originally posted by Chadnutz
As far as running goes, it runs perfect. It may run hot, ...

contradictory statments maybe?

look... replace the head and go on about your biz... we suggested the rebuild bc you didn't sound like you were positive that it was JUST the head... i thought you mentioned possible cracked block as well... and for $600 you can rebuild the ****er with 2 new heads etc etc... and you can keep all the stuff thats on the current motor... just take em the block and get your core refund. i'm not sure why you quoted $2000.... my v8 was not half that...

Chadnutz
07-08-2002, 05:57 PM
Supply and demand my friend....

Your v8 is VERY common. Mine 4 cyliner is not.
Mine is foreign, yours is not. Mine has ONE
aluminum head, yours are cast iron.

BigRedFord04
07-08-2002, 06:27 PM
not to prove anyone right or wrong....that gay little 4 banger is $1400 for a longblock thru ho'reilly....i'm sure you can find it cheaper somewhere else...

...and nutz, why do you have mazda in quotations " " in your signature...what else would it be?? I mean, i would understand if it were scott and his "nissan" but wtf??

Chadnutz
07-08-2002, 11:24 PM
Doug, I'm sorry that I was not born with the knowledge and insight that you were fortunate enough to have. Maybe if I spent less time asking questions and more time doing stuff on my own I would be driving my truck with no steering wheel and running into trees. Or then again, maybe I would be holding on to moving vehicles while riding my bike, and then falling on my ass in front of an entire street full of cars. I'd rather not...

And for Austin, I know you are capable of more mature responses than the ones you give. You simply could have stated that a long block was $1200 at ho reily's. Hopefully you inquired about a 1993 2.6L. As for spending $1200 for an entire motor when $600 or so may do the trick....no thanks. Do you guys ever want me to do the swap? Try to be a little less of an ass when posting. You call me an idiot in front of everyone for forgetting to turn my fans on, and then you private message me within a few weeks of getting yours and telling me to you have already forgotten to turn yours on. I was just trying to help you avoid disaster.

All Kitchen dwellers, save your personal attacks for the kitchen. I won't waste my time posting in there.

Authors of this software, please include an ignore list so users can ignore those whose insight and knowledge they choose not to waste their time reading.

This, my friends, is my last post on this thread. Good night.

Krawler68
07-09-2002, 08:49 AM
Hey jackass guess what...there IS an ignore list.

I value my personal experience... and BTW it HAD a steering wheel, just no brakes :D :D

I thought Austin's post was plenty intelligent... if he used any bigger words I doubt many would understand him, and they would resort to calling him "over-intellectual" or even better a "smarty-pants"...


so once again...


QUIT WHINING

BigRedFord04
07-09-2002, 03:24 PM
Originally posted by Chadnutz
You simply could have stated that a long block was $1200 at ho reily's. Hopefully you inquired about a 1993 2.6L. As for spending $1200 for an entire motor when $600 or so may do the trick....no thanks.

I could have just stated that a long block is $1200 at ho'reillys (2 L's bitch) but i would've been lying. If you could READ, i stated that it is $1400 just to be informative to settle the debate over the cost of your POS 4 cyl when compared to a 350...and yes, i'm smart enough to figure out which POS 4 cyl it is. I wasnt trying to suggest that thats the route you should take and didnt expect it to sway you in that direction. I'm all about doing stuff as cheap as possible but still get the job done, who isnt? So, if by chance i'm not on your ignore list yet b.c. you still havent figured out that it exists, all i have to say is this: you need to fart and kill the bug thats up your ass about me and everything i have to say and then move on to something or someone else to PMS about.

End Post.

BigRedFord04
07-09-2002, 03:25 PM
Originally posted by Krawler68
QUIT WHINING