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BMFScout
03-29-2004, 03:22 AM
here is what scout motors should look like. This is my friend Johann Cox's Scout, it is that really clean yellow one with the black soft top. He is about to spring it over, then it will be a "bad dood"

stinger7401
03-29-2004, 03:36 AM
that is a gm tpi manifold and injectors, right? how did he rig it with the scout block?

Jackasic
03-29-2004, 09:57 AM
***, that is because it is a GM motor. That's one way to put a Scout on a diet.

Looks good Jimmy, is that here in town?

uglyota
03-29-2004, 10:20 AM
is that the guy that's guiding on the king ranch now?
Sweet truck...I stopped and talked to him a few times...he built that thing on a tight schedule.

Fredo
03-29-2004, 10:25 AM
Originally posted by stinger7401
that is a gm tpi manifold and injectors, right? how did he rig it with the scout block?

NO, that is NOT TPI, that's an LT1. Big difference.

uglyota
03-29-2004, 11:00 AM
LT1 isn't tuned port? I thought if it had a dry TB, runners, and 1 injector/cylinder, then it was TPI?

stinger7401
03-29-2004, 11:20 AM
Originally posted by uglyota
LT1 isn't tuned port? I thought if it had a dry TB, runners, and 1 injector/cylinder, then it was TPI?

ditto

Graystroke
03-29-2004, 12:02 PM
TPI is just a standard small block chevy w/ a Multi-Port Injection system that Chevy called "Tuned Port Injection", it's just a trade name, kind of like early vettes "Cross Fire injection". TPI moors have long tuned runners, probably hence the name TPI. LT1 motor's are a completely different motor. Different engine blocks, reverse flow heads, gear drive water pump, distributor on the front of the motor. It was the first redesign of the small block and bosted higher output and many improvements over the (at the time) 30+ year old small block. Just as the LS1 is to the LT1, the LT1 is to the small block.
Fred could chime in and tell you more.

Fredo
03-29-2004, 12:46 PM
close, but no. TPI is batch fire which means when one cylinder fires, that whole bank of injectors on that side of the motor fires. So it's basically firing all the injectors on that side of the motor to fuel one cylinder. Little bit primative, but it works. Some systems use MAF sensors, some are speed density that rely on the MAP sensor and VSS signal.

The only year of LT1 that is TPI is a 93 LT1, they still are controlled by the TPI computer and are batch fire. From 94 to 97 the LT1s were Sequintal Port Fuel Injection which fires one injector for each injector instead of firing a whole side of the motor to fuel one cylinder. Much better tunability and efficiency. LT1s also are neither speed density nor MAF systems alone. They are kind of a hybrid system that uses both a MAF and a MAP along with the VSS to keep everything in check. Big bonus for cammed/big head motors.

Also, TPI motors use a standard small cap HEI ignition system to power it while an LT1 uses a dual pickup system that senses 8 points of contact and also 360* of rotation to power a single coil system that controls timing advance and knock retard extremely accurately.

If you require further explaination between a TPI and SPFI LT1, just ask Doug Bedwetter, he learned all about LT1s the last time I had to explain the differences in chevy motors.

uglyota
03-29-2004, 12:54 PM
Sweet! So are we talking about the same guy (works on King Ranch)?

The blocks are still the same then, right?

Is the distributor under the TB?

Is my vortec SMPI then?

Fredo
03-29-2004, 01:15 PM
Originally posted by uglyota
Sweet! So are we talking about the same guy (works on King Ranch)?

The blocks are still the same then, right?

Is the distributor under the TB?

Is my vortec SMPI then?

No, the blocks aren't the same. Real similar, but there are differences in the LT1 block for the distributor and water pump being ran off the timing gearset. The distributor is under the water pump. Very hidden.

Your vortec is SPFI. The difference there is the injectors are centrally located in a pod with lines running out to the runners of the manifold.

uglyota
03-29-2004, 01:17 PM
Originally posted by Fredo
The distributor is under the water pump. Very hidden.
Sounds like a pain...so it's driven directly by the crank?

Fredo
03-29-2004, 01:26 PM
it's not too big of a pain because there are no adjustments on it. The years that were a pain were the 93-94's with the ventless optisparks that drew in moisture and usually always died when the water pump leaked on them. The 95-97's had the vented opti which is much much better about staying dry and clean.

BMFScout
03-29-2004, 07:54 PM
Yeah this is Jon Cox's scout, he is the one that was the guide out at the King Ranch. He is currently between jobs. He was in town last night, but left today. I can't wait til he gets it sprung over, it will be hella sweet then. I want to see what it would run out at nastysota, I bet it could take butler's old camaro :)

robertf03
03-29-2004, 07:56 PM
hey jimmy what transmission and tcase did he use?

Graystroke
03-29-2004, 09:06 PM
Dana 300 and 700R4. It all came as a package deal from ebay. He got a fairly good deal when you price out some of the stuff that's on the combo such as the adapter between the T-Case and the 700R4 from AA. 600 bones for that thing by itself.

BMFScout
05-09-2004, 11:36 PM
bump
welcome to the boards John!

agjohn02
05-10-2004, 12:51 AM
Though I'd shed some more light on the subject. I did this in word and pasted it. i got a little carried away, but it shouldn't leave any questions. If so feel free to ask them. This consists of some original text and some copied, but its been on my computer for so long i dont know from whence it came.


Although the LT1 shared many common dimensions, looked much the same and even had a few common parts, it was totally redesigned to provide more power with lower emissions and better fuel economy. Basically, the rotating assembly is pretty much the same and the cam can be used in any roller sbc as long as the dist drive pin doesn’t rub the timing cover. If it does it can easily be ground shorter.

Compared to the 1991 Chevy 350 L98 with TPI which is batch fire as Fred said, the LT1 made 20% more horsepower, got better fuel mileage, and had a much broader torque band with 90% of it’s peak torque available from just over 1,000 rpm all the way up to nearly 6,000 rpm. GM accomplished this by reverse cooling the engine (meaning the coolant directly from the radiator enters the heads before the block) so they could bump the compression ratio up to 10.5 to 1, tweaking the airflow in and out of the engine with a new intake and d-port exhaust runners, and using sophisticated electronic controls for both fuel and ignition. TPI fires two shots per cylinder per revolution. Rather than an injector firing twice per revolution and the half fuel waiting in the intake runner for the intake stroke, the injection is sequential and the corresponding injector only fires on the cylinders intake stroke.

GM had some problems with the early distributor due to both carbon tracking and moisture, so a new sealed distributor with a vacuum port was introduced in 1994 and used on all LT1s in 1995. The distributor is evacuated to the manifold, and stayed dry rather than collecting condensation inside. The new distributor was still located on the front of the engine, but used a pilot shaft in the cam and was driven by a pin on the front face of the camshaft. This pin was simply an extended version of the pin used to orient the cam timing gear on all other small blocks.

The pilot shaft for the distributor extends through the hole in the cam gear and seats in the hole in the cam; the distributor is driven by the long dowel pin that sticks up through the cam gear. In order for me to use the zz4 cam in my LT1, I’ll have to bore the hole out larger and install the longer dowel pin.

The high-resolution encoding is done with a 360-tooth trigger wheel spinning at camshaft speed. An optical sensor (hence the name OPTI-Spark) reads these spinning teeth, and creates a simple 0 or 5 volt signal, depending on whether an opening in the teeth is or is not present. As the trigger wheel spins with the engine, this 0 or 5 volt signal becomes a square wave voltage signal. This signal is then sent to the engine management computer to determine engine speed. On the FSAE racecar, we used a 14 tooth cam gear and a separate crank sensor (don’t recall how many teeth) to establish timing. We spun that engine to 14,000 rpms if this is any indication of how accurate the timing is on the LT1.

Once the computer knows the speed of the engine, it needs to calculate the engine position in order to establish spark timing. To accomplish this task, the low-resolution engine position encoder disk is utilized. The low-resolution sensor itself is essentially identical to the high-resolution sensor. However, the low-resolution encoder disk only contains 8 teeth. Four of the teeth are of the same size, and occur at 90-degree reference intervals (these four teeth help to give quick synchronization during start-up cranking). The other four teeth have varying tooth widths. From these variable-sized teeth, the computer uses a fairly simple algorithm to determine engine position. The ‘96-97 LT1’s had a separate crank sensor. I’m not sure if this eliminated the need for the low-res sensor in the opti. The only difference I’ve ever heard about in the opti is vented (95-97) or non-vented(92-94). Fred may be able to shed some light on this for me.

The data created by the high- and low-resolution sensing system is ultimately used by the engine computer to generate one thing: ignition timing. The timing signal is sent from the computer to the ignition module, which is located next to the coil on LT1 and L99 engines. The ignition module then sends a high current “charge” signal directly to the ignition coil. Once the ignition coil is charged, it fires a high voltage electrical charge to the Opti-Spark distributor cap. The rotor inside the Opti-Spark distributor then distributes the spark to the appropriate cylinder via the distributor cap.


The water pump is driven via the cam timing chain gear. The gear consists of a chain sprocket and a toothed gear in one unit. The water pump driveshaft is driven from the gear on the back of the timing gear and extends over the cam timing gear, through the timing cover and engages the water pump from the rear.


http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/4088bff1_b647/bc/997f/__sr_/3daa.jpg?phG5wnABFmad8WIE

http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/4088bff1_b647/bc/997f/__sr_/61d0.jpg?phH5wnABJPBmj53.

stay tuned folks, the rest is yet to come, it incudes:
SOA w/ RS, cross-over steering, lockers, zz4 cam which should put the LT1 to some where in the neighborhood of 350+ hp 400lb-ft, power disc brakes, kustom swing out tire carrier, and a/c

BMFScout
05-10-2004, 02:15 AM
holy ****! It's like you hooked up a serial port to Fred's brain, like Matrix or some ****, weird...

Fredo
05-10-2004, 02:32 AM
Originally posted by agjohn02
zz4 cam which should put the LT1 to some where in the neighborhood of 350+ hp 400lb-ft, power disc brakes, kustom swing out tire carrier, and a/c

Maybe at the crank...but my LT4 hotcam with 1.6 roller rockers and chromoly pushrods only brought 330hp and 345ft.lbs to the rear wheels. That is with headers, exhaust, air intake, electric water pump, and upgraded ignition. Also, it only had to travel through a 6spd and a 10 bolt. Unlike yours that will be traveling through an Auto trans, transfer case, and bigger rear axle. I would say you're looking at about 310-320 hp and 320-330 torque. Still plenty, but it's not going to be as high as you think.

agjohn02
05-10-2004, 03:45 AM
i just put that in there just for you fredo, to see what you would say. i may be new to posting, but ive been cruising the forum long enough to know you'd spot that and point it out... mr. im-a-nice-guy-in-person-but-i-never-have-anything-positive-to-say-on-this-forum.

anyways, i kind of agree with you, they do sound like optimistic numbers, but check out this site, this is where i got the idea to put it in there. keep in mind the one with the hotcam has the lt4 heads ad well. and, yes, i was referring to crankshaft numbers.

http://www.goautocenter.com/gen_ii_lt1.htm

i kinda split the difference between a zz4 crate motor and this info. maybe i was a little high on the torque but im guessing the hp is pretty close.

380hp 396 lb-ft, thats what you are putting out at the crank if you account for a 15% loss in a manual transmission drivetrain. the hot cam is .525 I/E with about 10 and 7 degree more duration respectively. the zz4 is .474 .510 I/E with less duration. in an unported head, duration isnt necessarily a good thing, it can result in a decrease in dynamic compression ratio. personally i think the zz4 will have higher DC than the hot. that websites spread on hp and torque is 50 and 10, but with different heads. so, to end the discussion at this ill knock off 20 each and say im gonna make 330 hp and 380 lb-ft. ill let ya know what it makes when ed wright in tulsa gets done with it.

uglyota
05-10-2004, 10:52 AM
Originally posted by agjohn02
i just put that in there just for you fredo, to see what you would say. i may be new to posting, but ive been cruising the forum long enough to know you'd spot that and point it out... mr. im-a-nice-guy-in-person-but-i-never-have-anything-positive-to-say-on-this-forum.
This could get interesting! :D

Fredo
05-10-2004, 11:07 AM
What about my previous post was mean?

Also, with the LT4 heads and Intake, you should see quite a bit more power than just the cam. I didn't realize you were talking about doing that with the cam.

agjohn02
05-10-2004, 11:26 AM
no not mean, just not positive. and, no i dont think this will get too interesting, at least between fred and i. we're cool, i was just kidding around with him. do you know anything about what the crank sensor does on the later lt1's, fred? ive got some pics of the drivetrain out and should be getting my cam today. so, ill update when i get home from work.

no, im staying stock with the heads and intake. from what i gather on the goautocenter.com site, the zz4 motor has stock heads. i wish i had the lt4 stuff though. those things flow 240 cfm compared to the 195 cfm of the lt1 head. i do, however, have a red powdercoated intake manifold that looks like an lt4, thats good for at least 20 hp, surely.

Fredo
05-10-2004, 11:38 AM
If you're reffering to the crank sensor in the bottom of the timing cover on 96-97 LT1's, it is part of the OBDII diagnostics for detecting misfires. It's also a secondary reference point for telling if the OptiSpark is dying or not.

agjohn02
05-10-2004, 08:18 PM
cam came in today. so, now ive got all my parts. im about to go work on the insulation now.



by the way, just wanted to recommend hedman hedders. i called them to see if they had any headers for an LT1 in a 73 Scout (yeah right), but to my surprise they were super helpful. the guy i first talked to, david ext # 203, was as helpful as he could be and never tried to rush me off the phone like most of the tech guys you talk to do. he referred me to one of their senior application guys, jim wical, and this guy wanted pictures of my engine bay to study and called me three days later with some suggestions. said he had a couple engineers look at it too. i was way impressed with their customer support.

Graystroke
05-10-2004, 09:00 PM
Originally posted by agjohn02





http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/4088bff1_b647/bc/997f/__sr_/6136.jpg?phFyBoAB03szIuYs

everybody needs one of these:
http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/4088bff1_b647/bc/997f/__sr_/4da3.jpg?phe7BoABGZ0Gvvdw

I already have enough red X's, thanks though! :flipoff2:

agjohn02
05-10-2004, 09:06 PM
yeah, red x's are a dime a dozen. .


ok, pics work then they dont, work, then they dont

am i doing something wrong or what?

StevenAg03
05-10-2004, 10:57 PM
just upload them to our server...one pic per post....you could have done three posts....

agjohn02
05-10-2004, 11:47 PM
drivetrain in dangle mode:

agjohn02
05-11-2004, 12:22 AM
MILLER TIME BABY!!!

eight
05-11-2004, 12:25 AM
Hmm, lots of good jeep parts.....































...... wasted on a scout. :flipoff2:

agjohn02
05-16-2004, 06:31 PM
hmm, eight, is that name indicative of your desire for more inches or cylinders?


got the firewall insulation cut to fit today. havent glued it down yet though. now i gotta do the tranny tunnel to finish it out. im thinking about putting a snorkel on the scout. i havent seen one made specifically for scouts and there probably is no such thing, but im pretty sure i can find one that will work. i do not plan on doing much high water crossing, only if absolutely neccesary, i just want cold air intake. im planning out a cowl induction system for the scout that would draw air from the cowl vent, but i think a snorkel would be easier. it would be very tomb raiderish. over kill?

agjohn02
05-29-2004, 10:11 PM
ok, only two weeks later and i finally got time to finish up the insulation. cross your fingers and hope it all stays stuck. next, on to the dana 300 rebuild. i got my rebuild kit from advance adapters this week and can finally get started on it. anyone rebuilt one before? do you need a press to get bearings and such off and on? or will a deadblow hammer and a couple 2x4's suffice?

eight
05-30-2004, 01:55 AM
The hammer and 2x4 method should work. I use oak. A few sizes of chisel and some sizes of plate can also be helpful.

And eight is just because that's what my jeep is. I need not more inches or cylinders.

agjohn02
05-30-2004, 08:24 PM
got the t-case apart with the exception of the rear output shaft. ill have to get it pressed out as i havent a press or funky log jawed gear puller. the hammer and 2x4 method worked quite well. i found white pine to meet my needs. however you do need a couple sizes of gear puller for a couple bearings. you can see them in the pic.

agjohn02
05-30-2004, 08:31 PM
here's the culprit. big gear wont come off until bearing is off and big gear wont fit throught hole in case. this is like the mother of all jigsaw puzzles. guess it'll have to wait till next week, cuz i aint got time to get it done on tuesday and ill be outta town the rest of the week for an interview. also, i need 1310 cv yokes for this case front and rear. will atlas yokes work? 29 spline i think but i cant remember for sure. or does anybody know a better place to get em?

agjohn02
06-21-2004, 11:11 PM
more parts and little progress to post. if you wanna see my progress, go to the dana 300 output shaft wanted post. that about sums up my progress, i had to take breather after screwing that pooch. anyways got my shocks and underhood a/c stuff from the big brown truck today. rancho rs 5012 and 5010 long travels and camaro a/c stuff for the lt1. dont really know what my next step is now. whatever i feel like working on next i guess. frame bracing under the steering box, engine gasket kit and completion of tcase rebuild are the options. i decided to forgo the cam swap for now. at least until i get some money for the ecm re-program and gas prices drop.

agjohn02
08-16-2004, 05:36 PM
about a week after my last post i sprained the crap outta my right ankle and have been crippled ever since. ive gotten some work done though. frame is braced under the steering box, sprayed the frame with rubber undercoating except where i have to weld stuff. got the t-case rebuilt with the exception of yokes and endplay settings. got the power booster, painted it and put that stuff together. looking for a new inner fender, mine was held together by rust.

agjohn02
08-18-2004, 11:05 PM
just a little more detail on how i re-enforced the frame under the steering box. 3/16" plate inside, outside, and bottom. there wasnt enough room between the box and frame to do it on top. pics arent the clearest, but they give you the idea.

uglyota
08-19-2004, 09:59 AM
you know that if you "fishmouthed" the leading and trailing edges of the plate it would be stronger?

agjohn02
08-19-2004, 01:17 PM
you know that if you "fishmouthed" the leading and trailing edges of the plate it would be stronger?


i dont understand, explain. you mean because there is more weld length?

uglyota
08-19-2004, 02:42 PM
I think it has more to do with not concentrating your heat on a small cross-section of the frame. If the frame is losing strength in the HAZ, you want the weakness to be dispersed over a longer area that is not so easily bent and broken.
I don't think I explained that very well...

Graystroke
08-19-2004, 09:22 PM
it's generally not a good idea to weld straight across a frame. I think it also depends on the load. in this case it would be a side load from the steering box so a fish mouth would be a good idea.

BMFScout
08-19-2004, 10:36 PM
i know for a fact they do it a **** ton in airframe applications, but that is with tubing mostly, and the other place I saw it done was anything st.john does, and he does some cool ****.

agjohn02
08-19-2004, 11:46 PM
i think i have it figured out. i didnt want to try to explain it, so i drew a couple of pics. green's the welded on plate, red's the HAZ of the frame, tans the frame. the blue line could represent the area of any type of stress (i.e.- bending, tension, compression, shear) with the fishmouth you have re-enforcment from the plate welded on and non-HAZ metal in the frame. with the straight weld you can see the incidence of stress is completely in the HAZ. thanks for getting me thinking guys. if anybody knows the reason and this isnt it, let me know.

dang it, now i gotta go in there and replace that section of my frame rail. :flipoff2:

robertf03
08-20-2004, 01:23 AM
just learning solidworks?


should have bought a traveler.

agjohn02
08-20-2004, 10:14 AM
just learning solidworks?



no, it just makes a more legible drawing, but you seem like a crayon kinda guy so this is for you. :flipoff2:

uglyota
08-20-2004, 10:17 AM
simple and effective, and very TAMOR ;)

agjohn02
08-28-2004, 06:20 PM
got the hog down to the shortblock and cleaned, putting new gaskets and seals in it. the engine stand i made when i was about 15. i took a picture of the timing cover so you can see the splined shafts coming through for the water pump(top) and opti-spark distributor(bottom).

Fredo
08-28-2004, 06:23 PM
i took a picture of the timing cover so you can see the splined shafts coming through for the water pump(top) and opti-spark distributor(bottom).


ah, so THAT is what that looks like. ;)


By the way, now would be the perfect time to put the LT4 hotcam in that motor. :D

agjohn02
08-28-2004, 09:30 PM
dont tease me fred. id love to but by the time you get the kit and the re-programming, i cant swing the dough.

Fredo
08-28-2004, 09:45 PM
I can do the reprogramming for $50. We can get your VIN from the computer added to my programming software for $50 and I could just give you the same program I'm running in the camaro and do some timing table work on it if it's not quite right. I know that kit is a bit pricey, but the rockers and timing set that it comes with are quite pimp. Still wouldn't be that hard to do down the road. It's not like it's hard to get to the front of that motor when it's in a scout.

agjohn02
08-28-2004, 11:15 PM
Still wouldn't be that hard to do down the road. It's not like it's hard to get to the front of that motor when it's in a scout.


thats my plan. gm parts direct has the kit for $498. combination has a cloyes timing set for $80. im assuming since you have the electric water pump you are running a lt4 extreme duty timing set? those are pricey! ill do it when i have money and nothing else to do to the scout. ill keep your offer in mind. for now though, headers, a good exhaust, and cowl induction (more like fender induction) will get me around 300 at the shaft. if i get squirrely enough i might port match my heads and intake. that sould be enough for offroading... if i use the low range. :flipoff2:

agjohn02
09-08-2004, 11:31 PM
BOOYAH! factory screw in rocker studs... too bad i dont have roller rockers and a cam big enough to need em. :(

agjohn02
09-14-2004, 01:00 AM
i actually put something i learned on trucks to use today. i cant afford most of the bling they throw around on there, but this one was cheap. the new"ish" inner fender i got was pretty much rust free but had a hacked up core support so i had to drill out the spot welds and put my core support on the new fender by spot welding them back together with a mig. pretty easy job.

BMFScout
09-16-2004, 09:54 PM
no, it just makes a more legible drawing, but you seem like a crayon kinda guy so this is for you. :flipoff2:

schmack!!!!
I am feeling a show down coming on! Project Dreidel VS the Z-28 Scout, Sunday Sunday Sunday, $5 for a seat but you'll only need the edge. You better be there unless you are dead or in jail, if you're in jail, BREAK OOOOOOUUUUUTTTTTT!!!!!!
Seriously it will be interesting to see if you both make it, this year we will drink beer and raise hell in Gilmer...

Fredo
09-17-2004, 02:59 AM
Flem is going to make it.....hopefully. At least, if I'm not building the motor for Dad's Truck, I'll be over at Rob's helping him. Dreidel must make it.

agjohn02
09-17-2004, 09:41 AM
if the Almighty reaches down from the heavens and turns a wrench for me for the next week. ill be there.

agjohn02
09-18-2004, 06:51 PM
got the brakes plumbed except for the rear axle hard lines. now all thats left is to put the top end of the engine together re-install the drivetrain and do a SOA. woohoo gilmer here i come... but not in the scout.

the switch next to the wilwood prop is for the torque converter lock-up control.

agjohn02
10-26-2004, 09:36 PM
ok, so, if you dont pay your dues and get "deactivated", you have more time to work on your projects. got the drivetrain mounted. new motor mounts and crossmember. clocked the tcase down 10 degrees to make the cv shaft clear the 700r4 pan plus a little pan massage. taurus 2 speed elec fan is mounted to the alum rad. working on fabbing up extension for chevy truck airbox. got one fuel fitting done. now i can play with my adj fuel press reg. almost ready to start suspension stuff.

does anybody else think this is close?

agjohn02
10-27-2004, 09:28 PM
progress for tonight thus far:

got the camaro sending unit fit for welding into to scout tank. since i dont have a tig at my disposal anymore, ill have to take it and my airbox addition to the machine shop tomorrow. the pick-up centers up nicely right where the old pick-up used to be. the sending unit is canted off to one side. thats why its not centered on the tank at the top. i decided to go with braided stainless fuel lines. i tried to make the stock camaro lines work, but they are bent in all the wrong places. AN-06 for the feed and AN-04 for the return. cant go wrong with aircraft grade stuff.

agjohn02
11-02-2004, 10:39 PM
rear springover is under way. kinda makes the 33's look small, eh?

BMFScout
11-03-2004, 12:02 AM
looks good john

agjohn02
11-04-2004, 07:39 PM
the verdicts in, a stock spring SOA yields 3 inches more lift than a 4" lift spring SUA. clearance between fender and tire was 9" now its 12". oh, and for you scout guys, that mysterious spacer does matter. im 3/8" short on the drivers side now with no spacer. the one that was on top of my pass side spring was part of the spring so ill have to find two of them somewhere to put under the d side springs.

Fredo
11-05-2004, 01:03 AM
I still haven't figured out why that damn spacer is in there, but apparently it matters. Good to see you're getting the SOA done John. You'll like your Scout SO much better with it. I absolutely hate my 4" lift springs. I need a damn kidney belt really to drive it everyday.

agjohn02
11-05-2004, 02:17 AM
jimmy, did you set your rear axle back when you did the soa? mine rubbed the front of the fender well with the old set-up when flexed. you ever have that problem?

agjohn02
11-10-2004, 01:10 AM
nothing new thats picture worthy yet, but i felt like posting this. my frame was rusted through above the rear spring hanger so i modified it. ive seen hangers that werent rusted rip off the frame so i was gonna do this anyways. hows that for a fishmouth?

BMFScout
11-10-2004, 07:10 PM
I did set mine back an inch, I guess it helped doesn't rub much if any. I also added a main leaf minus the eyes under the main leaf on the rear. It looked as if the leaf under the main one was about to rub through the main. Now the second leaf extends almost to the ends of the spring, works much better...

agjohn02
11-16-2004, 04:47 AM
came to two conclusions tonight:

1.) if you wire your torque converter lock-up control scheme wrong, it wont work properly. seems i put the 4th gear pressure switch in the wrong port on the valve body. theres a very good chance this is what has been causing my tc lock-up problems :D . i did it one late night on the king ranch and i remember it confusing me, but as soon as i popped the cover tonight i saw the problem. could be a costly mistake, b/c i think i fried the tc clutch. the only reputable tranny shop around here wont work on your stuff unless they remove and re-install it and i wont know if it needs replacing until i get it running again. :mad:

2.) the quantity of lubricant in my scout is roughly equal to five gallons. ive had every gear case, the engine and tranny apart and my used lubricant collection point (a 5 gal bucket) is full.

agjohn02
11-24-2004, 06:40 PM
got the tank finished up and put in. everything worked out nicely. i decided i didnt need braided line on the return since its not under pressure. i used rubber hose and cut the quick connect fittings out of the old fuel line to use. they gave me a nice barbed fitting to clamp the hose to rather than the slick metal fuel lines on the sender and fuel rail. i bought just enough POR15 for the tank and it took forever to coat it entirely. they say just slosh it around. if you have a lot more than you need you could probably do that, but i had to let it sit for 30 mins on each side, several times, to get it to run and coat everything completely. i took my lesson learned from the leaf spring fiasco and after getting estimates on welding the tank up just bought myself a new toy for the same price.

agjohn02
11-25-2004, 08:48 PM
got a new locker. i decided to not go with a detroit. instead i went with a COX locker. this way ill be able to tell if i want to use a spool or if i dont like it ill get a detroit after the budget is no longer a concern. i welded it up without pulling the carrier. id feel more comfortable pulling it, but i dont have a dial indicator to check the backlash. i was gonna buy one to put in a new carrier but this is temporary anyways. i blacked the r&p with a torch to keep the spatter from sticking and flushed it with used motor oil and brakecleaner after i was done.

Fredo
11-26-2004, 04:01 AM
kickass man, now get that pile together for the Clayton run. Everybody who is anybody is going to be there tearing up their ****!

eight
11-27-2004, 03:04 AM
Pulling the carrier doesn't mess up the backlash or anything. Only changes would be from size change as a result of welding, which are the same if pulled or not.

And you need to bring it to clayton. I've NEVER seen a scout wheel, which leads me to believe they suck.

agjohn02
11-27-2004, 02:23 PM
Pulling the carrier doesn't mess up the backlash or anything. Only changes would be from size change as a result of welding, which are the same if pulled or not.

And you need to bring it to clayton. I've NEVER seen a scout wheel, which leads me to believe they suck.


i know theoretically it doesnt change the backlash, i just didnt feel comfortable not checking it after reinstalling it. after i welded it the backlash was very minimal due to the heat i put in it. after it cooled off it was back to where it was before.

clayton is my goal. ive still got quite a bit to do though.

agjohn02
12-01-2004, 05:49 PM
finally got the rear axle in place for good this time. sits a little higher and definately has more ground clearance and a better appearance. i moved it back and inch and a quarter. looks like it may be too much. might rub the back of the fender now. if'n it does, ill be trimming.

agjohn02
12-02-2004, 09:30 PM
got the front axle out and finished grinding the pass. side perch down and the end yoke welds ground off. not a fun job, but it didnt take as long as everybody says it does. all the brackets are cut off the frame and im about to resume activity with welding the new front hangers on and setting the location for the rear hangers. ill save the pinion setting and end yoke turning for tomorrow when im fresh.

agjohn02
12-03-2004, 07:25 PM
for those that dont know what it is that im doing...

first pic) the castor as it was with the lift springs. yep. thats 5 degrees forward, 5 degrees rearward is ideal.

second pic) the pass side spring perch in its stock form with a slight sawzall mark.

third) the pass side perch after i got done grinding. this will allow me to point the pinion up. ill weld a new perch on top.

fourth) the welds on the endyokes ground off. you can see the parting line between the tube and the yoke. with the pinion pointed up i can turn these to get the correct castor.

agjohn02
12-03-2004, 10:13 PM
new front hangers.

uglyota
12-04-2004, 08:23 PM
D and C extreme?
why did you change the hangers?

agjohn02
12-04-2004, 08:59 PM
D and C extreme?

its a company in colorado springs, co that specializes in scouts. i bought the reverse shackle kit from him when i was working in north mexico and didnt have access to steel to make my own. dont really like the fact he etched his logo there, cuz im not really one for labels, but they're nice parts.

the guys super nice and has lots of parts any of ya'll could use. check him out here (http://www.dandcextreme.com) his prices are good too.





why did you change the hangers?

reverse shackle

agjohn02
12-05-2004, 12:31 AM
progress tonight...

got the front springs installed, rear hangers set in place, and the weight back on the axle. i used the highly scientific, slightly mathmatic, wholly archaic method of eyeballing the placement for the rear hangers and whadda ya know it came out right. the shackles are about 3 degrees off from one another but are in the exact same place on each framerail. so, im gonna wait until i get the spacer under the drivers side spring and see if that alters the weight distribution enough to make the difference. if not, thats good enough for me. im gonna wait until tomorrow to tack the perches in place. its hard to see in the dark and the front of the scout is held up by 8 tack welds. so, id rather not get under it any more tonight to set the pinion angle.

look it over and see if it looks right...

Graystroke
12-05-2004, 01:07 AM
I like all the O'Reiley's bags in the background. Looks like you're gonna make it to Clayton. How's the drive shaft situation. Will the old ones work? Do you have brake lines and the steering worked out?

agjohn02
12-05-2004, 02:26 AM
tie rod and drag link (d&c extreme), and front d-shaft (high angle) are paid for, just need to get measurements and get em shipped. i bought them when i got the rs kit thinking i would do this then, but didnt have time. ive got all the knuckle out parts here and ready to bolt up minus the d side high steer arm which is in route. hopefully, ill have it all put together monday or so to get the links and shaft on the way. brake lines are all installed. you can see em hanging down. the rear shaft is going to come from a place in texarkana. after that i gotta wire my headlights, rad fan, and a few other misc things. oh, and my brothers mutt chewed the shoulders off of two of my spring bushings so ive gotta replace those when they get here.

agjohn02
12-05-2004, 05:12 PM
castor correction is done. the pass side turned easily with a little application of the castor wrench. the drivers side was stubborn. i tried the wrench directly on the endyoke, wouldnt budge. i tried putting the old knuckle back on and jacking it up under the arm, wouldnt budge. tried both with heat, no movement. tried penetrating oil, nope. so, i put the old passenger side knuckle on the drivers side and applied the wrench to the top of the arm. with the added leverage it worked like a charm. both sides now have 5 degrees rearward castor.

agjohn02
12-05-2004, 05:15 PM
oh yeah, my castor wrench...

uglyota
12-06-2004, 09:56 AM
looks good...almost time to go break stuff!

agjohn02
12-07-2004, 04:56 AM
got the lunchbox dropped in. i cant remember if its a lockrite or an ez locker. i bought it a while back off ebay for cheap. had to pull the carrier and ring gear to get the cross pin out. took about 15 mins to get it put together. what took so long was cleaning out my housing. seems one of my axle tubes was full of sand, looked like beach sand. i dunno how it got there... any ideas grayson? anyways, after i pulled the axles and beat the crap outta it turning the knuckles, the sand got into every bearing in the housing. took two quarts of oil and a can of brake clean to get the pinion bearings clean. it really needs new bearings and seals, but since im broke now, it aint gettin em.

Sharpe
12-07-2004, 10:30 AM
When I had my d60 gears dont at a local shop down in corpus, they said that there was like 1/4" of sand in the bottom of the tubes. I went and looked at it and sure enough there was. The fluid that came out of it looked like chocolate milk and both inner shafts and one stub shaft had to be replaced due to rust on the seal surfaces. I dont know how sand could get in there but I guess it does :confused:

eight
12-07-2004, 12:46 PM
Well you see the tube is about 1" bigger than the shaft and not sealed

Sharpe
12-07-2004, 01:28 PM
Hmmm this is why I wanted to rebuild the d60 myself but o well. So you're saying there are no seals on the outside end of the tubes?

agjohn02
12-07-2004, 03:40 PM
never had a 60 apart but im sure its just like my 44. the only seal between atmosphere and gear oil is just outboard of the carrier bearings.

agjohn02
12-07-2004, 03:43 PM
anybody got a disc brake outer axle for a scout they wanna bring me today?

Fredo
12-07-2004, 03:52 PM
anybody got a disc brake outer axle for a scout they wanna bring me today?

you need a stub shaft?

agjohn02
12-07-2004, 03:54 PM
yup, you got one?

Fredo
12-07-2004, 04:12 PM
should have a couple spares at the house.....I'll look tonight.

BMFScout
12-07-2004, 09:11 PM
the "cox" locker is a nice touch, how long does it take to unlock like the "ox" locker? My guess is a grinder and 45-60 minutes. Get that thing to clayton, you'll win the drag competition fo shure! I also want to see a ****load of yellow paint all over the rocks and trees! Nice work on the axle twist, you should be able to drive it no hands at 70 mph now... :gigem: It needs bigger tires... :flipoff2:

BigRedFord04
12-09-2004, 04:42 PM
i had Tues. and Wed. off work so i went out to E. Tx to help John out for a couple of days. some progress was made, but there were even more realizations that he's still lacking parts. scout stub shaft anyone? other than that he's ready to put it all back together and put wheels on it to have the front axle done. how do you other scout guys go about tightening the spindle nuts? we couldnt find a spindle nut socket anywhere. got the shock towers and lower shock mounts put on the front w/ some 5012s. ~7.25" down travel and 6.25" up travel, which was perfect for the bumpstops. also realized the scout "extended brake lines" werent even long enough to reach from the frame mount to the caliper. talked about putting the T on top of the axle like i have, but it would've meant re-routing a lot of the hardlines....so we went to Ho'Reillys, dug thru the boxes, and found some that would work as an extension for the extended brake lines. i think from the mount out theres now like 34" of brake line. :D he also got in new headers, and we test fitted them probably 10 times to figure out why they wouldnt fit...we did all we could but came to the conclusion that they just wouldnt work w/o either notching the frame or somehow bending the crap outta some blingin' ass headers. he said he's sending `em back today and ordering another set. still needs to make rear shock mounts on top...which should be easy...get headers, and exhaust put on, and wire everything up. lotsa work, little time, and little $$. a TRUE tamor project.

pics:
http://www.texasoffroad.net/galleries/lonestar/album283

oh yeah....i played w/ the dog a lot and we killed a 30 pack. i think the dog had 3 last nite :gigem: pretty impressive vertical for a 45(?)lb dog.

BMFScout
12-09-2004, 07:00 PM
I've got the socket for tightening that at the house, I think I have a couple of them actually. If you would like to borrow it you can snag it this weekend. HOLY ****! That is a world champion frisbee dog if I'ver ever seen one...

agjohn02
12-09-2004, 07:28 PM
sounds good, i think i found a stubby here in town, but i gotta convince him to part out the axle. ill just get a socket from you this weekend. thanks.

BigRedFord04
12-10-2004, 12:28 AM
frisbee dog maybe, but drinkin' dog....well, still maybe....he drank up the Keystone Light like a champ last nite, but was movin' kinda slow this mornin'. John said he tried to give him some more this afternoon and he wouldnt touch the stuff. pretty sure the wuss was hungover. :gigem:

agjohn02
12-10-2004, 01:00 AM
yeah, he didnt chase you half as far as he chases every other vehicle leaving the driveway. i guess "hair of the dog that bit you" doesnt apply if you are a dog.

agjohn02
12-11-2004, 03:17 AM
got the rear shocks mounted and got some work done on the twin stick. heres the shocks but the twin stick isnt picture worthy yet. the top shock mount, formerly known as 3" channel iron, bolts to the factory location. the lower shock mounts at all four corners are the resurrection of my old rear spring perches cut in half.

uglyota
12-13-2004, 11:38 AM
looks clean!
how thin is it? Since you told us thin stuff makes you hard :eek:

agjohn02
12-13-2004, 03:17 PM
18 gauge...
















fap,fap,fap,fap,fap

uglyota
12-13-2004, 09:09 PM
in that case, I hope trailside repairs make you hard too!

agjohn02
12-13-2004, 09:50 PM
i was kidding. its like 1/4" or so.

uglyota
12-13-2004, 09:56 PM
fap fap fap!

agjohn02
12-16-2004, 03:26 AM
progress as of 2:19am on thursday...

got the drivers side knuckle-out put together after i found the shaft yesterday. new headers came in today and, this time, the drivers side fit well and the passenger side didnt. it hit the firewall. i was tired of doing the header shuffle and liked the way these were tucked up out of the way, so i commenced to beating it into submission. this didnt do the trick so i got a little carried away and took the sawzall to it. first a little, then a lot. never thought my rustfree scout would see a sawzall, but here it is. by the time i was done cutting i thought id really screwed up and was kicking myself. anyways, i fitted a peice of sheet and busted the tig back out and went to welding. since my sheet metal tig skillz suck, i soon tired of this and decided to try the same power setting, except with a 6011. worked nicely. now i can add sheet metal stick welder to my resume.

well, off to get a new can of grizzly wintergreen and keep at it.

you lookum pictures here:

Shaggy
12-16-2004, 05:56 AM
fancy

Cajun
12-16-2004, 07:03 AM
Very nice work indeed :gigem:

Jackasic
12-16-2004, 09:59 AM
looking good :bigthumb:

agjohn02
12-16-2004, 06:45 PM
this is pretty much a sympathy post for myself to make me feel a little better since im bummed about not making it to clayton.

today got the new rear cv shaft, its 2" OD and .120 wall. and mocked up the steering. the tie rod and drag link are 1.25"x .281" wall DOM. im gonna send the drivers side arm back and get another that is tapered properly. ill have to bend them both up a little. no problem since there are several good fab shops with huge breaks locally. other than that its going pretty well. ya'll have fun in clayton and i might see you there, but with no rig of my own.

agjohn02
12-20-2004, 01:05 AM
so , took a little break this weekend after an ill-fated hard push last week. all i got done was some misc. painting (just ask austin, i like to paint things), some wiring done and the rear driveshaft bolted in. dont hold me to it, but theres a chance this thing could be driveable by the end of the week.

ill include a pic to make this post a little more interesting...

agjohn02
12-21-2004, 02:37 AM
got the front d-shaft in today. highangle cv longtravel. since the front is reverse shackle it needs the added slip. i also found a use for one of my shock boots since the boot jesse puts on em only has about 3 inches of stretch in it. i flexed her out a little to see how the shaft would clear my pan since its bigger than the old cv i test fitted. its close but, well, i dunno. im gonna try it. if it doesnt clear at full stuff then ill figure something else out.

wheres a good place to set the front bumpstops? when the spring goes flat? this will keep the springs from sagging quickly, but will it limit my wheel stuff too much?

Violentv8toy
12-21-2004, 06:50 AM
when they go flat. If you get the right kind of bumpstops....they'll compress another 2-3".

eight
12-21-2004, 09:50 AM
Set bumpstops so the tires no rub fenders and shocks don't bottom out. That whole negative arch destroys springs thing is BS.

uglyota
12-21-2004, 09:54 AM
he no gotum mil-wraps

BMFScout
12-25-2004, 08:11 PM
bumpstops? we don't need no stinking bumpstops...
plenty of shock travel, and no rub-em fenders, so no need right?

agjohn02
12-25-2004, 10:05 PM
well... if i dont use bumps i know the front driveshaft will get into the tranny pan as it is now and im pretty sure the d-side spring will hit the tre on the pitman arm when that side is stuffed. ill get it assembled and flex it with the forklift this week and decide then.

BMFScout
12-26-2004, 03:33 AM
im pretty sure the d-side spring will hit the tre on the pitman arm when that side is stuffed.
that is why i think my "extra long fang towers" are important on a scout. If you could get some bumpstops to keep that from happening it would work out as well.

agjohn02
12-26-2004, 03:41 AM
yes, im beginning to see the benefit to the "rock fangs". i think however, that it will work out ok. if i stop the bump where im going to need it. i think it will limit the spring compression to flat on both sides. it'll give up about 3" of bump on either side but you cant have your cake and eat it too.

agjohn02
12-26-2004, 03:49 AM
btw jimmy, would you be so kind as to edit the first post on "my build-up thread" and spell my name right? :flipoff2:

BMFScout
12-26-2004, 05:06 AM
fixed it...

agjohn02
12-26-2004, 02:09 PM
thanks


edit: i ust checked it b/c i dont trust you. proved to be a valid distrust...
:flipoff2: only without the :D and add a :mad:

agjohn02
12-31-2004, 01:47 AM
progress as of late has been slow due to lower than desired temperatures in my unheated driveway, snow, and Christmas. however some has been made. it now rolls, steers, and stops on its own. wiring, bumpstops, and exhaust are the only things left on the plate. got the arms bent and it clears nicely now.

pics 4 u

BigRedFord04
12-31-2004, 02:22 AM
fancy

when's it goin' wheelin'?

agjohn02
12-31-2004, 02:45 AM
when its done...

uglyota
01-03-2005, 10:39 AM
grey, eh?
usually people put the bright colors on the bottom ;)

agjohn02
01-03-2005, 09:14 PM
grey, eh?
usually people put the bright colors on the bottom ;)


this way it'll look normal upside down. i thought about this color but its been done to death. :flipoff2:

fuel pump is wired (MUCH quieter than the inline), motor is cranking but i havent wired the coil in yet for ignition, wiring for fan, headlights, and horn is in progress, wiring harness is installed minus coil.

agjohn02
01-07-2005, 04:29 AM
MOVED: my reply from charlie thread

yeah, ive read all the pirate discussions on taurus fans. all i remember is that dodge intrepid fans suck and only DAN's use them. :flipoff2: im trying to fit in with the cool kids. i like having two speeds. especially since i had to ditch my tranny cooler fan due to not enough room with the a/c condenser in there also. this way i can wire it so the high speed is activated by a.) a switch on the dash, b.)the a/c pressure switch when the compressor comes on and, c.) the temp sensor in the tranny cooler when the slushbox gets hot.

roburt, 30 ampers wont do it, the relays in the ferd box are 60 amp. i guess i could run two 30's in parallel though.... :rolleyes: john not jon

BigRedFord04
01-07-2005, 05:35 AM
i had a problem with my aftermarket (Hayden) fans burning up relays and 30 amp fuses in inline fuse holders off the batteries. one fuse holder actually caught on fire when the fuse blew, but luckily i was under the hood checking the timing when it happened. after that i switched to an 80 amp continuous duty solenoid to run the fans...no problems since then. i only run single speed tho. that particular solenoid is Borg Warner p/n S55 and can be acquired for ~$25 at Ho'Reillys, lifetime warranty. the power supply for the switch comes off the power window circuit in my fuse block that is wired from the factory, but not used since i have manual windows. also, that second small post on the solenoid is grounded.
here's how i did it:

agjohn02
01-08-2005, 05:55 AM
so, austin, when you turn on the key, the fans come on?

i got mine wired up with the exception of the actual fan. it all works so sayeth the voltmeter. the gm relay is in there b/c i didnt feel like unhooking it. thats what i used for a fan relay with the old fan. its down on my inner fender and i was too lazy to disconect it. someday if i need a 30 amp relay for something else ill bypass it. anywho heres the final wiring diagram on my fans. nice huh? :rolleyes: it looks more complicated than it really is. the only problem spots are having two, actually three relays to go out. the gm one isnt carrying any significant load and the other two actually act as back-ups for one another. if one goes out i just run it at the other speed. the low speed comes on with ignition, controlled by the pcm and i have manual override of the high speed. i didnt include a cut-off switch since i dont plan on doing much high water crossing. if i need to cut it off, it'll take me 30 seconds to pull the relay.

speaking of relays going out. i fixed the dealer only item $35 f*rd low speed relay by replacing a $0.40 diode from radio shack.

edit: i dont think i ever metioned why im going to all this trouble just for a taurus fan. the 16" after market fan i ran before worked fine until i let it sit a while running. it would get hotter than liked it too and i figured it was a matter of time before it got too hot sitting or crawling. taurus fans are cheap from the junkyard, fit the scout sized rad pretty well, and move a lot of air. the only problem is a lot of people talk about frying relays so i figured id just run the oem control scheme and not have to worry about trying this and trying that.

edit#2: i think i figured out what the complex low speed relay is for. when you cycle from low speed to high speed the low speed relay has a second or two delay before it cuts off. im assuming this is to prevent voltage spikes to the fan or something of that nature.

BigRedFord04
01-08-2005, 11:16 AM
yes....mine comes on when i turn on the ignition, but the switch in the circuit allows me to turn the fans off by turning off the solenoid. i like this arrangement a lot more than how i originally wired it where i had to remember to turn the fans on when i started it up....ask chadnutz how much it sucks to forget to turn the fans on.

agjohn02
01-10-2005, 09:21 PM
it must be storming outside, cuz all i hear is CHEVY THUNDER!!!

HOOAH jiggas. its alive, Its Alive ITS ALIVE!!!!

MUAHAHA MUH MUH MUH MUHAHAHAHAHA

ITS ALIIIIIIIIIIIVE!!!!

BigRedFord04
01-10-2005, 09:31 PM
alright chadnutz, prove it....where are the pics? :flipoff2:

Shaggy
01-10-2005, 09:34 PM
how's a pic supposed to show it running... exaust maby

agjohn02
01-10-2005, 09:36 PM
hmm, pics of it sitting in the garage running wouldnt be too exciting. audio however, now that'd be cool. i starting to think im just gonna leave the exhaust off for a while. (insert big smile here b/c im on dial up and dont feel like waiting for the reply page with the smileys to load or searching for the evil grin austin posted.)

BigRedFord04
01-10-2005, 09:41 PM
now tell everyone what the final holdup to getting it running was..... :flipoff2:

agjohn02
01-10-2005, 09:51 PM
screw you chatty cathy.

i forgot to plug in the opti-spark, ok? is that so bad. the plug was in a really tiny crevasse between the water pump and the block under the throttle body and it was hard to plug in. id really rather not talk about it any more if thats ok with you.

word to the wise: never confide in austin, he'll tell the world.

agjohn02
01-10-2005, 09:54 PM
heres your pic. i was revving it up a little to seat the rings.

JeepsterJayson
01-10-2005, 10:08 PM
WOW! What a red line limit!

agjohn02
01-12-2005, 05:22 PM
so yeah, thats not really the rpm pointer, its the adjustable red line pointer. anyways, drove scout around the circle drive today. inside tire chirping all the while...

agjohn02
01-13-2005, 06:21 PM
drove down the highway a little today. not exacty legal since the inspections been out since june and the registration since october but dang straight headers is fun. might have to put some cut-outs on it just for those times when im bored.
http://www.justinternationals.org/Binder-Bench/images/smilies/burnout.gif

agjohn02
01-14-2005, 07:01 PM
scout yoga

BMFScout
01-15-2005, 02:55 AM
pimp, that yeller paint is going to look fawking sweet when left behind on rocks...

Doug Krebs
01-15-2005, 09:51 AM
holy jesus, you can't wheel that thing!

stx4wheeler
01-15-2005, 07:22 PM
looks really good are those late 70's side mirrors from a ford on there.

agjohn02
01-15-2005, 07:33 PM
probably are ford mirrors, but they came stock on scouts.

agjohn02
01-21-2005, 08:03 PM
scout took her first trip today... to the exhaust shop for muffler and inspection. ive never really hammered on it b/c a.) it'd just spin one tire b.)i was afraid of the pencil thin dshaft breaking and c.) i was skeered of my booty fab motor mounts (which turned out to be a valid concern). well, all thats fixed now and its faster than a greased pig even though its running richer than bill gates. when we racing for pinks pole-lock?

agjohn02
01-21-2005, 08:27 PM
i thought id do before and after pics.

before
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3244&stc=1

after

agjohn02
01-21-2005, 08:35 PM
reverse order this time because its easier that way

after
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5094&stc=1

before

BigRedFord04
01-22-2005, 04:58 PM
theres a whole thread dedicated to before and after. search newbie! :flipoff2:

man that Z link is kwality. was that factory?

agjohn02
01-22-2005, 05:23 PM
no, i guess the p.o. put it on there when he put the lift springs on. maybe he thought it needed to be there? i dunno. its actually pretty heavy duty though.

BMFScout
01-23-2005, 02:01 AM
its actually pretty heavy duty though.

EBAY!!!!

uglyota
01-24-2005, 10:38 AM
mad props :cheers:

uglyota
02-22-2005, 07:34 PM
Okay why didn't you bring this to gilmer? Isn't it done?
and you're gonna beat the crap out of those front spring hangers. THin is nice, but not when you know it's gonna take a beating

agjohn02
02-22-2005, 08:06 PM
no front bumpstops and the trailer park doesnt have a resident's fab shop like most of them do...

i think my front hangers are pretty well protected now that i have the bumper back on.

uglyota
02-22-2005, 08:22 PM
you let bumpstops keep you from wheeling? Shoulda come over and I'd have welded em on for you

agjohn02
02-22-2005, 11:48 PM
since bumpstops will keep my front d-shaft from making whoopie with my transmission pan, yes. i havent even put the shaft on yet. plus, im broke.

agjohn02
02-28-2005, 10:33 PM
torque converter decided to eat itself and deficate metal shavings into the rest of the tranny. so, a rebuild is in order. i got a 4wd case from gordon's to replace my 2wd case. pulled mine after work today and from two, one shall arise.

betcha didnt think a 4x4 chevy 4 speed would fit in a neon did ya? inform your local enterprise rent-a-car. i didnt ask the rental guy, but he did inform me that neons are cool with a flowmaster.

Jackasic
03-01-2005, 09:45 AM
if you need to weld something John, just bring it by.

BMFScout
03-01-2005, 05:44 PM
The neon does have a decent stereo, it also has a rev limiter. I didn't try a neutral drop or the test for the top speed limiter b/c I am a ***** and didn't take it past 90 on hwy 6 at high noon. I tested the rev limiter in the parking lot of the enterpirse place though, John was not impressed... I was impressed that John coaxed out of the guy to tell his story about the flowmaster on the neon. He says, "It was the stainless twin tip, it still looked classy" I was trying hard not to lose it. Chode.

jerryg79
03-01-2005, 06:42 PM
The neon does have a decent stereo, it also has a rev limiter. I didn't try a neutral drop or the test for the top speed limiter b/c I am a ***** and didn't take it past 90 on hwy 6 at high noon. I tested the rev limiter in the parking lot of the enterpirse place though, John was not impressed... I was impressed that John coaxed out of the guy to tell his story about the flowmaster on the neon. He says, "It was the stainless twin tip, it still looked classy" I was trying hard not to lose it. Chode.

I had the same problem with the PT Cruiser I rented, the rev limiter in neutral sux.

uglyota
03-01-2005, 09:59 PM
Not impressive, knowing that it's possible to road swap an sm465 into a cavalier at 65mph.

agjohn02
10-03-2005, 12:23 AM
screw driving that comfy new truck, thats for pansies. im back in the scout this week. plans include bumpstops, new front shackles, spring clamp thingamajigs, and maybe rock sliders.

agjohn02
10-03-2005, 12:42 AM
is there some place i can buy these? how do they attach to the spring?

http://www.aor4x4.com/aorcata4sm2.jpg

Sharpe
10-03-2005, 01:35 AM
All the ones I've seen look like they are spot welded on.

TxCruzr
10-03-2005, 07:18 AM
There is a set of clamps you can get at napa that are like for fixing broken leaf springs. I saw people on POR using them and they had them clamped on the spring pack, and its a storage place till you need one. I'll find out more lata after class.

tigweld
10-03-2005, 09:54 AM
you drill holes for them, and they snap in.

agjohn02
10-03-2005, 06:07 PM
snap in or rivet in?

tigweld
10-03-2005, 06:54 PM
the spring holds'em in, so it really doesn't matter how ther attached.

eight
10-03-2005, 07:14 PM
You wanting the spring clamps or the little pad things?

agjohn02
10-03-2005, 07:22 PM
ahhhhhhh, the clamps. ive got the pads already

eight
10-03-2005, 07:35 PM
I got some from autozone. They're just 2 plates that smash together with a u-bolt. Not sure where to get factory style ones.

TxCruzr
10-03-2005, 07:36 PM
ahhhhhhh, the clamps. ive got the pads already

What kind of pads....maxxi? :flipoff2:
Here (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=271310&highlight=spring+clamps) is the link on POR talking about them...spring clamps from autozone or summit, made for being a trailfix for broke springs but do the same thing.

agjohn02
10-03-2005, 07:46 PM
ive got square u-bolts from tractor supply on the back. i want some that will let the springs open up and breath. ill prolly end up building some, but for this weekend im gonna just go get more square u-bolts.

agjohn02
10-04-2005, 05:54 PM
building rock sliders tonight. anybody wanna lend a hand? it comes with a free tour of the wind tunnel.

give me a ring-a-ding 361-460-1251

agjohn02
10-05-2005, 12:51 AM
got this much done tonight. thanks for coming by and distracting/critiquing me brandon. plan on finishing them up tomorrow night.

agjohn02
10-05-2005, 12:55 AM
these are the spring clamps i have. guess ill just put some on the front for this weekend.

Jackasic
10-05-2005, 08:41 AM
np, looks like you made some good progress after I left. I might be able to stop by tonight.

BMFScout
10-05-2005, 09:05 AM
looks pretty good, what is their drag coefficient?

agjohn02
10-05-2005, 09:37 AM
looks pretty good, what is their drag coefficient?


why do you think i need help tonight?

stx4wheeler
10-05-2005, 10:29 AM
i might be able to come by if you need help tonight as well.

agjohn02
10-05-2005, 08:43 PM
im heading up there now. gimme a call if your mom will let you come out and play.

agjohn02
10-05-2005, 11:59 PM
im about to finish up here and head home. ill could definately use a hand tomorrow (thursday) evening with the bumpstops. preferably someone with a little forklift experience... or someone that can at least push and pull levers would be fine.

agjohn02
10-10-2005, 10:52 PM
finished up the sliders on friday night. no bumpstops necessary. wheeled like a champ. im happy. need 35's.

Cajun
10-11-2005, 10:58 AM
Nice work, those really look sharp. :gigem:

TxCruzr
10-11-2005, 11:49 AM
Those look really good :cool:

Jackasic
10-11-2005, 02:37 PM
those turned out nice, glad I could help out ;)

agjohn02
03-14-2006, 01:36 PM
new tires

stretched a little too

william_ace
03-14-2006, 08:04 PM
looks good john

agjohn02
03-14-2006, 10:16 PM
oh yeah, i leveled it out some too with longer front shackles.

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/album201/P1010069.sized.jpg

BMFScout
03-15-2006, 12:42 AM
someone stole your doors. I didn't see the rear camaro seats mounted anywhere yet :flipoff2:

agjohn02
03-15-2006, 01:00 AM
i think waste management used them for something

BMFScout
05-31-2007, 09:53 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1975-Scout-350-V8-Hotrod-2-Paxton-Supercharger-NOS-Rod_W0QQitemZ140122628377QQihZ004QQcategoryZ98064Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Time for a huffer John! Look at the vintage of that procharger!

agjohn02
06-01-2007, 02:21 AM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1975-Scout-350-V8-Hotrod-2-Paxton-Supercharger-NOS-Rod_W0QQitemZ140122628377QQihZ004QQcategoryZ98064Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Time for a huffer John! Look at the vintage of that procharger!

why would anyone do that to a scout? i appreciate power much more than i do IH originality.

my axles can barely take the NA power they have.

agjohn02
07-01-2010, 12:29 PM
HOLY ****! That is a world champion frisbee dog if I'ver ever seen one...

RIP Mister

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album283/DSC00111.sized.jpg

http://www.texasoffroad.net/albums/lonestar/album283/DSC00126.sized.jpg

bburris
07-01-2010, 01:01 PM
Sorry to hear that John.

AggieTJ2007
07-01-2010, 04:39 PM
Sorry to hear that

JB
07-01-2010, 06:35 PM
damn man. Sorry to hear.

DRAGOONRANCH
07-02-2010, 12:09 AM
My condolences John, looks like ya'll had a good time together. One of the better feelings knowing you made a dog happy while he was around.

StevenAg03
07-02-2010, 10:18 PM
Sorry to hear that John... had to put Beau down two weeks ago at 5 years old. he had a heat stroke at 9pm when me and the wife took him walking... :(

agjohn02
07-06-2010, 09:41 AM
That sucks, Steven. Sorry to hear it.

Mister was my lil bro's dog. He's 15 and pretty torn up about it. He was a great dog. A kid couldn't have asked for a better one.