Load binding

[Chadnutz]

I found some things in the Northern tool catalog.. I have torn 3 ratchet straps so far, so I know the axle straps would be a good idea. It does seem as though chains would be safer. One of the straps has chains on the end which would be neat to have instead of the "J" hooks. I like the way Conlee straps his jeep down by putting all the chains under it rather than in front and behind.

[Chadnutz]

This is what I want. $50 each. Would need 2....

Pricey compared to straps, but they should last forever. You can't beat the durability of chains.

[Chadnutz]

These are less expensive - $27 each

[Chadnutz]

Either to be used in conjunction with these - $9

[Chadnutz]

I like this kind of chain because it doesn't rust....

$113 for 40 feet though. BOTCO may have it cheaper.

[Chadnutz]

$6.50

Strengths: (working/break)

Rathceting Load Binder with chain 6600/26400
Ratchet straps with chains on the end 3000/10000
Normal 2" ratchet straps 3300/10000
3/8" chain 6600/26400
axle straps 3300/10000

Using the binders and the axle straps the weak link would be the straps, but 4 could be used - 2 on each axle to nearly double the strength. I'm not sure what happens when one comes to as smashing stop from 50+ mph with 4000 lbs strapped to the trailer...

Thought?

[StevenAg03]

just go with the straps....you want it to give just a little bit....chains break too much shiat...

[bburris]

On the Llano trip I tried strapping my axles to the front and back with ratchet straps and then compressing the suspension with chains. Somewhere in San Antonio the hook things on the rear broke and the chain flew off and the Jeep started bouncing around like a mother****er. I don't know how soft your suspension is, but I'm using 4 30,000lb straps (two front, two rear) on the bumpers now. If you're careful about where you run your straps and you don't use cheap ones you should be fine.

[Chadnutz]

I strap the axles down and let the truck sway.

I don't see how your **** came loose unless the suspension compressed and the hook fell off. This is why I don't strap to the bumpers. I want the mounts to be solid.

[fbronco86]

Originally posted by StevenAg03
just go with the straps....you want it to give just a little bit....chains break too much shiat...

Break to much stuff? I put the chains around the axles. You just have to look out in the rear for the break line. I am pretty sure i dont want the truck to give alittle bit at all. I just dont think its a good idea for your load on the trailer to move is. Chains are cheaper in the long run anyway. Straps get cut and all sorts of other crap. I got some boomers from TSC for $19. And I already had chains. That and some .10 cent zip ties for boomers are you are good to go.

[bburris]

Originally posted by Chadnutz
I don't see how your **** came loose unless the suspension compressed and the hook fell off. This is why I don't strap to the bumpers. I want the mounts to be solid.

I had compressed the suspension as much as humanly possible before I put the chains on. I guess I hit a bump and the chain popped and it broke two links and the hook was gone. When I stopped the chain was laying on the trailer and there were two broken links barely attached to it and the hook was bye bye.

Straps are like $12 at Sam's and they have whatever the EdgeGuard is so they're harder to tear. Like I said, if you're careful of where you run them you shouldn't rip them up so often.

[Chadnutz]

What size chain were you using?

[Graystroke]

I think it's better to strap the vehicle down and compress the suspension(from the bumpers/tow points). There's something to be said when every known vehicle manufacturer does it this way when they transport. Also you don't want the load shifting. I also read somewhere from a race car tech that they strap to the body to keep the suspension from cycling and nicking the races in the wheel bearings, which makes since. If you think about it all that weight of the truck goes up and down on the same part of the bearing w/ out rotating like it would if you were going down the road.
If I haul a vehicle I use four straps criss crossed front and rear w/ a safety chain in the front to the trailer just in case. It maybe overkill, but I never have had any problems and can go down the road w/ a little peace of mind.

[stinger7401]

I have had to many straps break to ever go back to them. Also I used to strap down my jeep from the frame to the trailer and compressing the suspension at the same time. On a trip to Colorado one time I stopped to fuel up only to learn that both straps were draped across the trailer, even at full compression or all i could get, the jeep still bounced and both came unhooked. Lesson: I will always strap to the axles, its to easy not to. And for chains, straps break, chains dont, if they do they were to old to begin with. I use chains, axle straps and clevis' and will never use anything else.

[uglyota]

We just used regular binders to tie the CJ4 down...like this:

[eight]

My company uses straps almost exclusively. You have to get good ones. Don't like the cheap 2" straps, but they work for little ****. We get the good straps from Alamo Iron Works usually. They're thick 2" straps. Some are 5 years old and still going, used almost daily. The best way to ruin one is to run it over a corner, it will cut fast. Put a little peice of cardboard or such under it. When we use binders they're the ones like ugly posted.

[Doug Krebs]

I've only hauled one vehicle and it was that new blazer, so I can't speak from experience, but here is my opinion any way!:flipoff2:

I think chain's and binders on the axles and straps holding the suspension down.

I personally don't want the load moving on the trailer at all. The chains shouldn't loosen up and should be plenty strong holding the vehicle to the trailer if you get in an accident.

Straps holding the vehicle down takes the sway out of the suspension. Have you ever seen a trailer start to fish tail and the trailer suspension start to cycle, and then suspension on the car on the trailer start to sway with the trailer and amplify the problem? Thats what I want to prevent.

So 2 chains and binders tight on the axles and 2 straps snugging the suspension

[fbronco86]

Originally posted by Graystroke
I think it's better to strap the vehicle down and compress the suspension(from the bumpers/tow points). There's something to be said when every known vehicle manufacturer does it this way when they transport. Also you don't want the load shifting. I also read somewhere from a race car tech that they strap to the body to keep the suspension from cycling and nicking the races in the wheel bearings, which makes since. If you think about it all that weight of the truck goes up and down on the same part of the bearing w/ out rotating like it would if you were going down the road.
If I haul a vehicle I use four straps criss crossed front and rear w/ a safety chain in the front to the trailer just in case. It maybe overkill, but I never have had any problems and can go down the road w/ a little peace of mind.

to add some fun info about the bearings grayson was talking about. I am not sure what motor company did this but anyway. They were transporting cars in the 40's to CA on railcars. And when the cars got there they were fine but they noticed the wheel bearings were wearing out in 10000 miles and they had no idea why this was happening. So they found out it was due to the railcar cause it was a rough ride and the bearings rubbed in one spot and messed them up. So yes keep your car from moving on the trailer.

one more fun bearing story
A company had some bearings in thier shop. They also had some big machines running making vibrations. They had there bearings stored on edge and they failed when they were in use way before they were supposed to fail. The vibrations from the machines in the next room cause them to rub and in one tiny spot mess them up. So if you are going to store bearings lay them down flat and pack them with grease this will help. By laying them down flat the bearing has more contact area than it sitting on edge. and grease can never hurt.

[Violentv8toy]

I always use chains for everything and I only tie to the axles when hauling. I hook the front up and then have another person put the vehicle in reverse and put load on the chains and I tighten the rear with the binders and call it good.

1 strap is cool to have on the trail since they're 10 times lighter than chain. I probably will never use a strap to tie my truck down to a trailer....one time me and my brother were hauling a chute on a winch truck and we hit a rough cattleguard and one of the straps flew off and hit the back windshield shattering it....i couldn't hear for about 2 hours later.

[eight]

Where can one buy good ratchet straps in town? TSC just gots ****ty ones. I'm looking for thick 2.5" ones.

And for anyone wondering, the fit was not as tight as I thought it would be. The CG should be about at the front shring hanger so i guess its OK. I like to load the truck heavy, I'm wondering what effect the 900 lbs of water in the bed has, if it counts for proper trailer loading or not. And I told them at discount I wanted the new truck tires full of air, yep, 40 psi. :rolleyes:

[Chadnutz]

Lowes or home depot. Cheaper than TSC too.

[StevenAg03]

wallmart and sams both have them....they are around 20 for the 2.5" yellow ones that are rated at like 10 or 20k

[bburris]

I know this is late, but SAM'S has the nice ones for $12.43 apiece. I had four of them on the Jeep this weekend if you look at it.

[eight]

Got one at Home Depot, 2.5" x 25' for $13. But its not what I wanted. Looked just like the ones Brett had. What I wanted has straps about 50% thicker.

[bburris]

Mine have "Edgegard" technology. It's got a little trademark symbol, so that must mean they're extra strong.:rolleyes: :flipoff2:

[mudtoy67]

Almost lost the fawking XJ on the way home. This is what was left of the front strap holding it to the trailer. I suspect it broke when we hit a big ass bump in the highway just north of Dallas. It had a nick in it from rubbing on the axle truss, I figured it was small enough to not be a problem. About 5 minutes after the bump some truck pulls up next to us and rolls his window down, motioning at the Jeep. I'm all thinking, "ya thanks, nice jeep I know!". :laughing: I finally figured out he was saying "STRAP!". Pulled over and the XJ was about 12" from the back of the trailer. :eek: Thankfully Karl and Kopecki weren't far behind and Karl let me borrow one of his straps. I WILL be buying 4 new straps and 4 axle straps so I can secure this thing properly in the future. I also need to redo the floor on the trailer and I'll add floor mount d-rings like most car haulers use.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/Mobile%20Uploads/Photo413.jpg


Polyperformance has a good selection of overpriced trailer straps.

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=800


these are sweet! they have the axle strap built in.
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Speed-Strap-2-Ratchet-Tie-Down-with-Twisted-Snap-Hooks-Adjustable-Axle-Strap-Combo-p-691.html

i prefer my method and have two 3/8" shackles on each of my axles.


Instead of axle straps, which can get cut, I've been thinking of axle chains. Something like a 3/8" chain about 18" long with rings on both ends.


like this?
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Speed-Strap-2-Ratchet-Tie-Down-with-Chain-Anchor-Hooks-p-688.html

Not sure if the chain is long enough though. You could do like I do so straps don't have to touch anything metal and possible sharp.


I guess it has worked fine for you so far, but those shackles on your axles look so tiny. What are they rated for? Also, Scott, where did you find those Maglite holders for the Patrol/Jeep?

This is where I plan on buying new straps...
http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/


We use axle straps and tie downs like what Scott linked too from Northern Tool for the two rig trailer. Super easy and so quick to tie down, beats the hell out of the old chains and boomers we use to use.


Damn that's expensive.

I was thinking more like this.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/home-improvement/hardware/cable-chain/chain/grade-30-proof-coil-chain-3-8-in-3587077
+
2x http://www.tractorsupply.com/home-improvement/hardware/chain-rope-accessories/other-chain-rope-accessories/cold-shut-7-frasl-16-in-zinc-plated-3549964
+
2x http://www.tractorsupply.com/home-improvement/hardware/chain-rope-accessories/rings/steel-ring-no-2-x-2-in--3551157


They are rated at 2,000ea. That means that i can hang my truck from a crane using two of them not taking into account any safety factor or the fact that 90% of the weight is on the trailer. It's a 3/8" shackle.
I found the maglight holders from a Snap-On truck.

Moving the discussion over here...figured I'd beat Ed to a chadnutz post bump.:flipoff2:

[mudtoy67]

I believe my problem here was not strap quality, but operator error.

Issue 1 - using only one strap per axle, going from one side of trailer, around axle, then to other side of trailer. This method has worked fine for me for a long time, but I have tossed a few straps over the years from getting cuts and scrapes on brackets and such. I've been telling myself the last few trips to buy more straps in order to put 2 on each axle, but end up not because I've already spent too much on the rig.

Issue 2 - poor care and bad judgement of strap use. I knew that strap had a nick in it. It had rubbed on the front axle truss on the way up and I thought it would be ok for the ride home. I should have disposed of the strap and borrowed someone else's. Thank God the Jeep did not fall off the trailer.

I like straps over chains/binders because to me they are just easier to work with. A strap will have to be replaced occasionally, but I think this is a decent trade off for not handling chains. If I had a real heavy full size rig I'd probably consider the switch.

I do like the poly performance straps with the axle strap built in. I'd be concerned though about possibly having to replace a $46 frayed polyperformance strap instead of a $10 Northern Tool axle strap.

I like Scott's d-rings, and while the strength numbers seem right, I'd feel a lot more comfortable with the strap around the axle. If I get in an emergency situation and the entire axle pulls out from under the rig I've probably got more to worry about than the rig coming off the trailer.

[Sharpe]

For the record, I also suck down my suspension with my front and rear winches. Keeps the truck from bouncing around and adds back-up attachments should the strap or chain fail.

[davido]

Moved from the previous thread:




Instead of axle straps, which can get cut, I've been thinking of axle chains. Something like a 3/8" chain about 18" long with rings on both ends.

If I ever buy again, I'm getting these or something like it:

JEGS 80122 - JEGS Ratchet Tie-Downs
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80122/10002/-1

One-piece integrated loop and ratchet. They can be used straight or around an axle.

I've been using the separate axle strap and ratchet strap for years with no issues. But it's twice as many pieces and it's a little awkward holding the open ended hook on both axle strap hoops tight while trying to attach and ratchet the other open ended hook. The closing/locking hooks would also keep it all in one place, even if it somehow got slack. It can't fall completely off like my current setup. I'm not concerned about cutting them. Has anyone had that happen? I've never even frayed one. They're pretty tough.

Then I'm going to cut off all of the extra so I don't have to ever mess with it. I don't know why I haven't yet. All of them are still long enough to tie down a load of lumber on a semi trailer.

[Sharpe]

I cut a strap while dealing with my FUBAR'd crewcab on the way to the Haloween run at alto. That was deffinately user error as I was pissed off and didnt pay much attention to strap routing.

[davido]

I believe my problem here was not strap quality, but operator error.


Agree. The only issues I've ever had were from me being lazy/sloppy. Seth saved us from some of that this trip. I almost did a single in the rear. He mentioned two and that was a much better idea. Especially since I had 7 straps laying around anyway. Risk.

[stx4wheeler]

I like to run one chain and boomer on the rear and one strap around the front axle. I then use two more straps one front and one rear to suck the suspension down especially on flexy rigs to stop all of the bucking movement when you hit a big bump.

With this method I have only had two problems one was the usage of a super thin 2" wide harbor freight strap to suck down the suspension, and the other was user error on poor body hold down strap.

[redcagepatrol]

if you cut a strap, you can buy just the end you need here and avoid the cost of a new ratchet:
http://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/strap_builder/

[robertf03]

did anyone get a picture of how kopecki did his tie downs?

[mudtoy67]

Since I've got to replace the deck anyway, has anyone looked into the punched diamond plate like the 3 car haulers use? I'd use it where the wheels ride then wood in the middle. Seems like using the straps with hooks on them would make the trailer pretty versatile when you want to strap down different rigs or other stuff.

I've done a little googling but can't seem to find where to get it or see how expensive it is...

http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/7861/56853387.png

[redcagepatrol]

did anyone get a picture of how kopecki did his tie downs?

I tend to tow him on my trailer alot and I'm not sure I'm fond of that method. He pulls his truck down with the ratchets. The problem is that he can't ratchet the truck to the stops so it still bounces and the straps get loose then slam tight again when the truck rebounds. He had a strap break last month (the metal hook actually broke) because of this.

Both of my rigs do not bounce when strapped by the axles. I find that having the bodys move freely (using their own shocks) is easier on the trailer and the ride in the two rig. It is also easier on the straps etc... Maybe my rigs shocks are stiff or something - but they stay nice a smooth over the bumps.

[mudtoy67]

I think he was referring to the boat trailer. :D

[redcagepatrol]

I think he was referring to the boat trailer. :D

well - that's prefectly fine then:gigem:

[85cj7]

if you cut a strap, you can buy just the end you need here and avoid the cost of a new ratchet:
http://www.cargoequipmentcorp.com/strap_builder/

bookmarked, thanks. I have two rachets with torn adjustable ends that need replacing.

[eight]

I've never had the straps get any slack when hauling the jeep on the jeep hauling trailer with it strapped to the frame. Back of Scott's trailer must be rougher. Next time it goes on there it gets strapped down by the axles. I think the angle of the pull on the twisted hook (carhauler straps) was the reason it broke, they just don't work right when hooked to the stake pockets. I strapped the jeep to the multipurpose recreational vehicle hauling trailer by the axles this weekend and it rode fine, could not notice any bouncing. I did have the winch line attached but not tight at all.

[Seth]

the multipurpose recreational vehicle hauling trailer

:gigem:

[eight]

I went and picked up the dodge and jeep the other day ago. Brought them back to my dad's shop to do a little work. Chained the dodge down, chains were loose when I stopped in Brookshire, then in Luling, and again when I reached Karnes City. Straps on jeep never loosened. F450 with triple axle float rides like a cadillac.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I went and picked up the dodge and jeep the other day ago. Brought them back to my dad's shop to do a little work. Chained the dodge down, chains were loose when I stopped in Brookshire, then in Luling, and again when I reached Karnes City. Straps on jeep never loosened. F450 with triple axle float rides like a cadillac.

I don't know what you were doing wrong to have had to tighen them up three times (you did reboom them at each stop correct?), but something is surely not right about the way you were doing it. :eek:

:flipoff2:

[eight]

I figure it might have been pulling the rear axle back. It is installed with inferior springs and has blocks.