Project: Big NASTY

[stx4wheeler]

Well started tearing pieces off of my pile of a 78 bronco, so far i have got the engine and everything running good now. Yesterday i pulled the steering gearbox and took off the front sway bar. I also started removing some of the unwanted brackets from the sterling thats gonna go under there soon. Today i am going to send off the steering gear box to west texas off-road to get it rebuilt and tapped for redneck ram. No pictures as of right now but i will get some up later.

[stx4wheeler]

well today i worked on getting rid of more of that damn bondo off. i removed the messed up front grill and put on the all metal front driverside fender, and removed the passenger side fender.

[stx4wheeler]

well in the last few days i have taken all uneeded brackets off the sterling, removed all old shocks track bar, and junked the sway bar, and undid the front shaft so that all i have left is undo the radius arms, and coils and the front will be pretty much ready to re assemble with the lift parts. then swaop in the new rear axle.

[uglyota]

Pics!

[stx4wheeler]

unfortunately most of the project pics willl be up once it is all done since i have to take pics the old fashion way with a camera and get them developed but they will come soon enough, oh yeah i gots me a job now woho, and a nice and shiny lincoln arc welder.

[stx4wheeler]

yes yes you are correct no one has one down here one of my friends does but between his woman and work his balls went right out the window and he is always busy.

[eight]

between his woman and work his balls went right out the window...

me thinks funny

[stx4wheeler]

well i have some good news and bad for the last few days work. good news i decided not to be a jew and i bought 4 38 tsl's instead of jsut two, abd the last two came in today, now as for the regression the lift coils that i bought for it 8 or so months ago, ARE NOT FOR MY ****ING BRONCO DAMN EBAY MOTHER ****ER. so now the truck is on jackstands till i can get my next paycheck and order the some wildhorses or bronco graveyard superflex coils. p.s i dont think my bronco will ever move from my yard in mission.

[fbronco86]

this thread sucks we need some pics all this reading is boring. Come on freshman post some damn pics!!

[stx4wheeler]

here is a pic of my tires and in the background you can see the new welder, and the other pic is just of what my pos looks like at present.

[uglyota]

Sweet Kev! It DOES exist!
Body looks nice! Now forget the lift, mount those tires on your "Ugly special" rims, put 'em on and start cutting! Leave the fenders off, 'cause they're gonna get ripped off anyway, build you some bumpers and let er rip!
Oh yeah, get a spray can and paint FX4 on the side! :flipoff2:

[Ingenloff]

...Oh yeah, get a spray can and paint FX4 on the side! :flipoff2:

To qualify for FX4, he needs working fourwheel drive, rancho shocks, and a skid plate. I dunno if that Bronco can meet the stringent pre-reqs. :rolleyes: :D

[uglyota]

with requirements like that, they should call it something really tough, like "trail tested!" ;)

[bburris]

with requirements like that, they should call it something really tough, like "trail tested!" ;)
No way man... It's gotta be trail rated to be cool!

[stx4wheeler]

or maybe even z-71 that jsut sounds wicked haha

[stx4wheeler]

well i got the jbg superflex coils in today and they are awesome looking, also reinstalled the gear box, extnended trac-bar drop, and put both radius arms back on.

[uglyota]

rednek ram?

[stx4wheeler]

yes sir rednack ram with the 1.5 in ram. i havent installled the ram yet jsut the gearbox so i can hurry and get my ****pile running before it rusts into oblivion. also i got half of my uncles cherokee painted its starting to come together as well.

[stx4wheeler]

well i have been getting quite a bit done lately onthe bronco,but getting things done has lead to more and more problems. i sanded/wire brushed everything and painted everything all nice and shiny, so i finally after much work i get the damn huge ass lift coils in there. i was expecting some c-shaped bending cause thats what these damn trucks jsut do. well the damn pasenger side coil has the c -shape to it more than the other coil does but it also has this neat s shaped curve that starts after the first one so it is all ****ed up. so now i get to disassemble the whole front end and buy a new cup and all that fun stuff, so while i am at it i am gonna fight my jewish tendencies and order the sierra bronco straightners. any ways it is gonna bea bad dude when it finally get rolling.

to tate, austin or bret or anyone if you have a spring bucket for my please let me know imedditally call 979-574-5870.

i hate me truck......

[stx4wheeler]

here are the two designs that i was thinking of originally, the one with the triangulation was what i was leaning towards what do you all think and yes they are crappy drawings

[stx4wheeler]

well here are some pictures of my ****ed up coil springs any help would be outstanding. the last picture show how the coil also bows from the coil bucket on top the the bucket on the bottom it makes it look as though the axle is like and inch or two farther forward than the top bucket from the side.

[stx4wheeler]

no the top buckets are good i got a guy sending me some new bottom cups

reason the coil is bent out so bad i have no idea but i believe it is the coil cup n bottom.

[stx4wheeler]

well i have gotten some work doone in the last few days, i have got the sterling all rebuilt with new seals and brakes, now i just have to have the drums turned,and weld the spider gears. i also have gottem the tires and rims mounted and balanced, and have made some good progress on my front bumper. once the ankle stops ****ing hurting im fixing those coils, and doin the rear end swap and lift.

[Moose]

correction shims are 7 degrees.

just got off the phone with ron boggs with sierra bronco. said the early bronco shims (67-77) he's using is 1" from center to center of the bolt holes. he said though, the upper shims are designed to fit inside the upper retaining ring, no matter the spacing or model of the bolt holes. i told him i'll be receiving my new lower coil cups in the mail in a few days. when i do, i'll measure the distance on my new cups and he'll take that distance and make me a new pair. little more than $70 though because of the labor on the side.

[stx4wheeler]

well the last few days i have gottem the sterling all rebuilt and made a decent looking bumper for the front, it still needs some more plate for a rock skid,but it will do alright.
i also disassembled the front end, and made my own 7 degree shims out of two 2inx3in 3/8 in flat plate welded together, then cut and grinded a 7 degree slant into it, and drilled the holes, for the radius arm, i also grinded the top of the radius arm flat so that it everything will set flat, and one more thing to fix these coils i cut out another round flat piece of 3/8 plate and am going to weld that to the bottom of the coil cup for a true flat mounting surface for my shims. i also drilled the top of the coil tower and used a 1 and 3/4 in u bolt to hold the second rung of the coil below the d-shape cup on the top bucket. the shims will fixthe front to rear bow, and the grinding of the arm along with the plate and u bolt will fix the outside left to right bow.

all of this for a wooping 5 bucks and quite a bit of time, but much better than a couple weeks for modifed sierra bronco shims and definetly less than there 70 dollar price. pics coming soon.

[Moose]

i also disassembled the front end, and made my own 7 degree shims out of two 2inx3in 3/8 in flat plate welded together, then cut and grinded a 7 degree slant into it, and drilled the holes, for the radius arm, i also grinded the top of the radius arm flat so that it everything will set flat, and one more thing to fix these coils i cut out another round flat piece of 3/8 plate and am going to weld that to the bottom of the coil cup for a true flat mounting surface for my shims. i also drilled the top of the coil tower and used a 1 and 3/4 in u bolt to hold the second rung of the coil below the d-shape cup on the top bucket. the shims will fixthe front to rear bow, and the grinding of the arm along with the plate and u bolt will fix the outside left to right bow.

all of this for a wooping 5 bucks and quite a bit of time, but much better than a couple weeks for modifed sierra bronco shims and definetly less than there 70 dollar price. pics coming soon.

:eek: :mad: :flipoff2:

[stx4wheeler]

haha i installed the coils today and all i can say is damn these things look good now there is still a barely noticeable bow from front to rear and as for the bow towards the tire it is almost gone totally. once i build my extended johhny joint radius arms the little bow i have will go away i believe because now with the new jbg coils(7 in.) and the shims (1 in) i am setting at about eight inches for a while till the coils sag some, and a 7 degree shim is only for 6 in of lift correction. damn this mofo is big on the 38's.

[stx4wheeler]

yeha when you move the arms you have to do some support bracing to the trans bracket. also most poeple will box part of the frame opposite the side of the new arms for more support, and they also usually install some pieces of pipe or square tube for added strength. there is a pretty good thread on www.fullsizebronco.com in the 78-79 bronco tech section that is called "radius arm extensions suck ballz" yes that is the exact spelling and it gives lots of info. i wouldnt buy a new set of extended arms, but i am also a jew when is comes to spending money, especially when i can make it myself. here are some pics of my coils and the bronco as it sits now i hope to get the lift done and be driving it buy wed. of this coming week. the first two pics are before and after of the pasenger side coil which was the worst. and the bronco hood is now level with the top of my head 5'7.

[stx4wheeler]

well either setup would work good, i myself think the solid would be stronger since yes you are but welding you piece of 2 in solid stock to the arm, butthem you are sleeving the outside with pipe then welding that on 4-8 inches further down the arm, also you could have both ends ofyour barstock extension drilled and tappedto accept the radius arm bolts for added strength.

on a second note i finished the rear end lift and axle swap last night, i dont have pics of everything yet but here are a few with my new bumper that is not finished, all new front clip, with hoood, grille, and with the ass end almost level.

[stx4wheeler]

they are 7 degree up front joel the bushings. the front now sets like almost 2 in higher than the rear so i am in need of some add a leafs or more stock leafs. yeha shawn you can definately catch a ride sometime. here are some pics with it all dont but crapy quality as they are from a camera phone.

[jerryg79]

Frick, for future reference take the camera phone out of your pocket before you take the pictures :flipoff2:

PS when you comin' back to CS? I need a new drinkin' partner.....both mine have jobs and suck :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :D

[stx4wheeler]

just make some shackles (or flip the ones you've got)
do you really need to trim the fenders? seems like a shame after all that body work.

come on who are you talking to i have already done a shackle flip since i am the biggest jew in the world. i have f-350 front side rear shackles in the back, with a shackle flip, and the stock ford like 1 in degreed block.

and jerry drinking will commence AUG. 20

[stx4wheeler]

second report, bronco steers like a huge pile of doody, cant go over 35 on the speedo without changing lanes rapidly from side to side with no control. i then slowly drove it to a reputable front end and lift shop where me and the owner examined it and it seems that i have way to much of an angle and lift past what the 7 degree bushing in the radius arm fixed, so i now have to get my arms built pronto when i get back to college station, and i also have to lengthen the existing trac bar, or build a adjustable bar, i believe this has to do with the extreme case of death wobble.

but on a good note i took it to my friends house(slowly) and drove it and flexed it on lots of old telephone poles and chit and everything worked good. cant wait to get back to c.s. this friday with or without the bronco in tow. if i dont bring it with me it will be brought the next week.

and i think i am going to raise my coil towers like and inch to get this ho level instead of putting more lift in the rear.

[stx4wheeler]

well it finally made it and you all cannot argue that it doesnt exist, and it arivved in the true "big nasty" entrance leaking oil like the exxon valdez. alrighty that is all for now

[stx4wheeler]

Hell yeah boys i got a dana 60 king pin front axle for the bronco, and the best news is i only had to pay like 150 bucks for it, the junk yard my friend found it at wanted 350 and my friend owed me 225 for my old nine inch and parts i sold him, so i just gave him 150 for the 60 and we are even now. the only thing it seems to need is bearings,rotors,hub and possibly brakes for the drivers side since someone ganked those already. i am not sure of the gearing yet but for that price who gives a poo.

[stx4wheeler]

turns out they had all the brakes, rotors, bearings and hubs, and put them on and also i got it for 300 instead of three fifty cause my dad told him he would give the guy 300 for it so they guy that removed it wouldnt have to make it go through the junkyard and also got a cruise control servo for his f-350 whoo hooo

[BigRedFord04]

i hate you.

[stx4wheeler]

alright havent updated this **** in a while, lately i have raised the buckets up to lower it another inch, and it still sits a little ass low but that should change when the springs sag, if i ever get to drive it. i was having trouble steering it and thought it was the p/s pump so i replaced it today and it made little to no difference so friday after i get out at 11 25 i am gonna weld on the hydro steer ram, and hook it all up, and hopefully kiss chitty steering good bye for good. then after bleeding the brakes, and maybe a new battery i can drive the big nasty around some. i also relocated the shock o nthe passenger side to infront of the coil to match the driver side. i got pics ill put them up in a day or so.

[savvyaggie]

new meaning for "redneck" ram, wait till ya'll see how we got it alined to tack in in place!!!!!

[stx4wheeler]

alright guys cause of time restraints i have decided to wheel the big nasty with the 44 at TCC 3, i plan on getting all of the litle stuff done to it to make my maiden wheeling voyage more pleasant today i am ordering a new aluminium radiator to replace the anemic two core that someone put in there to try and keep a 460 cool, and also ordering power steering cooler, and a bigger tranny cooler to try and help the tranny out a little sincei am gonna be rollin 38's and 3.55's. i am also gonna start on a simple cage kinde of like freddys for tcc.

Today i will be at coopers house working on electrical and other random stuff, anyone is welcome to come on by if you need directions call 979-574-5870, thanks kevin

[stx4wheeler]

haha thats the plan clayton, to take it easy i am gonna weld the u joint caps in, so that hopefully the journal on the u joint will break before it takes out the shaft, i dont plan on pushing my truck very hard at all prolly jsut aggie alley and waterfall and other eaisier areas, one because i have the 44 and two because i need to re-learn how to drive my truck again cause i went from stock with an worn out ass motor, to a fresh motor, lifted, locked rear end, hydro steer, it is gonna wheel totally different than what i am use to..

[uglyota]

austin has a beefy 302, really low gears and a heavy truck.
Now that ryan has a motor with some power he's blowing stuff up too.
By the sound of it, your truck has a lot more power than either and will eat your ujoints no matter what.

So you've welded the caps so the ears don't stretch or break, maybe you can get away with stock shafts, why not put a couple aftermarket ujoints in there and see what happens? Hell, pass the cost down to clayton (I assume he's claimed the axle when you go 60)?
10 hours is a lot of towing to break quick and spend the rest of the weekend in 4x2

[stx4wheeler]

i have spare shafts for the 44 so that is not such a big deal, if anything i was gonna replace the ujoints with new ones in the shafts that are in there right now since i am sure they have never been replaced.

and nothing has been welded yet so i am trying to figure out what is gonna be best, and from what i hear from people on the fullsize board, if you put fanct u joints in stock shafts the shaft will break before the joint, basically i am jsut trying to save the shafts, and could give a rats ass about the joints since that is the cheap and easy part, if most of you all say that you believe weldin them is gonna hurt from the shafts breakage point then i wont do it i am gonna post my questions on fullsize since there is more people running my setup and destroying this type of setup and get a better prognosis.

[uglyota]

I got no stinkin u-joints (except in my driveshaft) so I'm talkin out my arse, but it seems to me that once these guys toast a u-joint, it usually takes out the shaft as well; if the ears don't rip off when the joint breaks, they're stretched out and won't hold the new joint in very well anyway. If you get to the point where you have a welded-in fancy ujoint and start breaking the actual shafts (not the ears) then it's chromo or 60 time, right?

Can we start a pool for where the Nasty breaks it's first ujoint? I'll put $5 on the rocky flat area at the start of Aggie Highway :flipoff2:

[TxCruzr]

oh yeah its cage, and exhaust time...
What the....did I read that right. BigNasty with real exhaust, whats the world coming to :flipoff2:

[stx4wheeler]

got some work done this weekend, i got the headers off, and the new flanges welded to them, sanded primered and painted, then i got the new exhaust system almost all the way done jsut need to adjsut one of the pipes with the torch and hammer, and do a few more welds. also got the new bling bling aluminum radiator installed and my fan and tranny cooler mounted up. today i am gonna finish the exhaust, and replace the tranny pan gasket, and filter, along with plumbing the tranny lines, new belts, and install the power steering cooler.

[stx4wheeler]

alriught today im gonna get her running again, replacing all the belts and finish the ranny cooler crap, then start on the cage will prolly start working in about an hour or so.

[stx4wheeler]

NEED HELP one or two hands finishing the cage if anyone can helpo give me a call 979-574-5870 ill be heading to brandons withing the hour once i pick up a u joint and get a few tools from coops.

[stx4wheeler]

alright i got the cage in and all tacked today with a bunch of help from brandon,Garret, and Andy thanks i couldnt have gotten it done without you guys, and another huge thanks to coop and cj for helping me bend all the tube and work on it till early in the morning hours on saturday. picks soon to come.

[stx4wheeler]

I will be working on my truck at brandons tonight starting at around 9 or 9 3- till late most likely if anyone wants to help. And garret i have the ratchet strap from your buddys truck still. lastnight i welded up the cage since i couldnt find anyone to help me, and tonight i got a friend from highschool coming to weld the part of the cage that attaches to the frame. then i am welding on my sliders(or steps whatever they are ***), and maybe redoing the back bumper so that tomorrow i can just work on the brakes and little **** at my house or something

[stx4wheeler]

its cool today pollock came and welded some key points on the cage and i quickly bastardized a new rear bumper so that i could get ride of like 8 inches of over hang in the back- and it may even rival the robert's(zj) front bumper in quality, it looks decent from afar, and not so bueno up close but it wil do the job, tomorrow i jsut have to shim the starter some, and take a gander at the front, passenger side banjo bolt cause it seems to be leaking, thanks for the help from everyone.

[stx4wheeler]

my camera is kinda messed up and i havent had time to charge it, but maybe today, but lately i have been doing school stuff till8-9pm then working on thuis thing til two or three am so i have been kinda busy,maybe pics today...

[stx4wheeler]

here are some pics of the beginings of the 60 swap, i got all of the leaf spring setup crap grinded off today except for the cast in spring perch on the driverside, i got it about half cut off today, and will cut the rest off tomorrow. i also started to dismantle the kingpins so i could rebuild them. anybody know exactly what the name of the tool is that you use to unscrew the kingpin out of the axle housing? i asked all around for a male socket prolly about 7/8 to take out kingpins in a dana 60 front any all the people at autozone and ho'rieleys stared at me like i was god, jesus or possibly even the virgin mary!!! then scratched there head and said well and i quote, i gast the thingy to take the nuts of the spindle. so i promptly walked out i will go to napa tomorrow on the lunch break and give them a try.

[bburris]

You need a 7/8" hex key. I doubt any parts store will have it, you'll probably have to take it to a machine shop like David Oliver did. I think Sear's might have them, but they're pricey if I remember correctly.

[stx4wheeler]

Been doing some work on it every night after work, and i finally finished the pain in the ass part of grinding off the cast in spring perch, and the axle is now totally free of its leaf sprung gayness, though i know i will be cursing myself for not going leafs when i try to get all my angles and **** for the coils right but oh well. Also got the replacement(cause mine is gay and only has 4 lo, cause hi is fawked and only the front spins in high) np205 brought inside and i got it all torn apart for the twinstick, just got to do the grinding of the shift rail. Now i am basically waiting on parts for the 60 to come in, tomorrow since my hours got cut back at work. i am gonna finish the twin stick, and prolly weld the carrier on the 4.10s for the rear.

[stx4wheeler]

more

edit and yes before someone mentions it i am gonna preheat, then weld all of the little cutting wheel and grinder gouges :flipoff2:

[Cajun]

That is a LOT of grinding. My hat is off to you and your patience. :eek:

:gigem:

[Sharpe]

You're not concerned with all the metal you removed from the short side of the hosuing weakening it? It looks like you got a little grinder happy.

[stx4wheeler]

well after i finally got the spring perch ground and cut down i was able to make four horizontal cuts and one large vertical one, and then just used a hammer and screwdriver, and was able to get most of it off like that, yet me and my harbor freight grinder have formed a man to hand bond.

as for the housing being weak i am not worried, it is common and the only was to do a coil suspension on the 88-later model ford 60's cause, after 79 ford made the frames a couple inches wider and moved the pumpkin out, so therefore the issues i had, but people have ran 60's like this and beat the poo out of them under fullsizes so i am not worried, i plan on laying a bead around the housing-to tube joint.

[tigweld]

you just cut off almost all of the non-heat affected cast metal around the plug weld, I think i'd be worried. Also, that is probably the only way to do it with the stock radius arms , but it doesn't seem to me like it would have been very hard to just make some new arms.(longer ones even)


ryan

[stx4wheeler]

yeah i hear what you are saying, about taking some strength away. i wouldnt have done it if i didnt think it was going to fail. i have talked with quite a few people that have done the swap a couple years ago and have had no problems. one of the guys i spoke with uses his bronco for lots of jumps and hill climbs and the other for crawling. Would it have been stronger to leave it yes. If i had the money i would have found a 78-79 60 that i wouldnt have had to cut up but they go for to much damn money and i got this one dirt cheap.
As for making new longer arms i am extending mine, then sleeving the extension,while using a johhny joint, instead of a solid stud. But as for making totally new arms that was a little out of the question for time restaints as i have to have my truck functional in about another two-three weeks to go back to collegestation for school. I believe that a totally new custom arm setup would have prolly been over my level of fabrication cause of the lack of clearance maybe 3 inches between housing and knuckle, and i would have had to outboard my radius arm mounts.
Along with the valley has got to be the worst place in the world to try and find supplies like D.O.M seems to be greek to these people at the local steel shops.

if it breaks ryan you and jimmy and a few others, can point and laugh, and yes flem i am working on getting that bolt in :flipoff2: .


also got a 18 inch e-fan from a lincoln mark vIII, that supossedly flows 4,000 cfm, so i believe my over heating will be solved soon.

[stx4wheeler]

Yes, yes i get it. :flipoff2:

and one a second note i got some revenge on the truck it came out of when i went to the junkyard yesterday, I promptly gave it many kicks in the door upon seeing its gastly apperance.

Also i noticed that junkyards down here have a ginourmous abundance of toyota rears of all kinds, and sterlings.

[stx4wheeler]

got the new electric fan in there and let me tell you does it ever make a huge difference, i went from the pos 11 in flexalite, to an 18in lincoln mark 8. i think the lincoln fan should have a hada warning on it, cause i am sure it could suck a small child through with the amount of air it moves.

also first pic is the parts thati have recieved which are as follows:
adjustable trac bar, 4 degree c-wedge bushings, 2 inch shackles, brake vaccum canister, assorted steering parts and heims, twinstick shifter boot, new c-wedges to be welded onto the 60.

im still waiting on my wheels, two more steering inserts, 1 inch heims for radius arms, radius arm extensions, and gears.

[Violentv8toy]

i think the lincoln fan should have a hada warning on it, cause i am sure it could suck a small child through with the amount of air it moves.

Better watch out then, huh?
:flipoff2:

[stx4wheeler]

Alright guys there are a few questions, well really opinions i would ike to get from you all.

Below are two pictures of the bracket i want to build, that pertains to the trac bar,frame,coil tower(upper), and shock mount.
There are a few reasons i want to build this bracket, and they are; ford tracbar mounts(in stock position) are know to break. usually this is because of them getting loose from the extra stress of lifts, big tires, heavier axles. so what i want to do is move/unite the tracbar mount, coil upper, and new shock mount into a single piece ( so that it will spread the excess force of the trac bar, out more than the stock 2 inch piece) that will stretch a large section of the frame prolly 15 inches or so on the outside of the frame, and 10or 12 on the inside. older ford frames like mine are already boxed in the area of the tracbar mount and coil tower on the inside.

this bracket will use 8 holes on the outside of the frame, and 6 on the inside boxed portion, along with two under on the bottom of the frame. i am going to mount the tracbar underneath the coil tower basically so that i can run a centered(stronger lower(axle mounted side) trac bar mount.

on the inside of the frame i am thinking about making a brace that would run from my new frame bracket to the stock crossmember that is forward of the boxed section by about 10 inches, and also slopes down gradually- meaning that i would have to make a mount on the stock cross that is raised slightly to make a level or almost level brace-this brace would be removable by using heims on each end so it would be removable( and i have some extra 5/8 heims laying around. But my question is since this new brace would be at like a 35-45 degree angle depending on fitment- will it remove enough stress to be justified in the fabrication of the bracket and removable link(brace).

Alright you people that are engineers and what not take a look at the drawings and tell my what you think, or what i could do to make it work, i am pretty sure it would be more than strong enough with just the outside to inside bracket( U shaped basically) to surfice. also btw the plate used for the bracket will be 3/8in.

[jerryg79]

Kevin, I'm not trying to be rude, but I used to own the same damn truck and I have no idea what you are talking about and the drawing confuses me even more.

[stx4wheeler]

alright jerry, yes i know you had the same truck, but no offense not that i have wheeled a lot but you didnt wheel yours at all, but i have seen quite a few people running jsut about the same setup as i plan to run, and pushing the truck to the limits i would like to as well, and they are having problems with the stock trac bar mount not cutting the cake, it is getting bent or broken. so what i am gonna do is relocate the tracbar mount underneath the coil, and you know how the coil bucket, and tracbar mount were attached seperatly like you could take one off and not the other, well i am going to change that. i am going to take a piece of plate and weld it to the coil tower on both side and this piece of plate will go from the stock tracbar holes all the way past the coil tower, about another 6 7 inches and stop right after the last two motor bolts, and my new shock tower will be intergrated on the right side of the coil tower on the outside of the frame(since i didnt have quad shocks). this plate will help displace the force put on the frame from the trac bar. Im moving the trac bar back about 2 inches, because can make a stronger mount on the axle by doing this. does this explaination help Jerry? or do i still have you lost

[jerryg79]

alright jerry, yes i know you had the same truck, but no offense not that i have wheeled a lot but you didnt wheel yours at all,

Wheeling or not wheeling has nothing to with your inability to convey information for other people to understand and comment on.

Try breaking it up into smaller paragraphs or even some sort of outline.

I have enough knowledge about the truck to understand the logistics of what you are talking about and the second post helped a little. Someone who has little or no experience with the particular set up you are talking about but has "superior wheeling knowledge" will not be able to help you if they cant undertand what you're describing.

Maybe you should take pictures and mark on them.

[stx4wheeler]

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15323

here is a thread that talks alot about the trac bar stuff i am tlaking about and trying to fix


burris- i know that this is similiar to a tj bracket- but i am using coils that are different than tj coils, and for the tabs yeah i know i could use a tab, and weld it to the botton of the frame or whatever, but that would be almost no different than what i have now that i want to change. and even if i could get tj buckets to work i would have to go buy them somewhere, but it would be cheaper for me to build the stuff myself since i am getting all the plate for free, and have all other materials i need. i know the time vs money scenario cones into play, but right now i have more time that money since my job hours jsut got whacked in half- (starting a new second job tomorrow), but i still have the time after i get home from work to make stuff like this bracket since there isnt **** to do at home then drink and watch tv.

[jerryg79]

whats wrong with this setup - simple and effective, the bracket back to the crossmember looks over engineered to me

[stx4wheeler]

jerry that is on a 80-96 bronco in which the crossmember is in a totally different place.

theres are behind the coil buckets and mine is way infront of them.

edit: went back out and looked at truck for a few more moments. still gonna keep my plan for the outer frame portion of the bracket. inner frame is prolly not needed except for maybe a couple bolts to help deal with force of full outer mount. also jerry i am moving my tracbar underneath my coil so basically moving it 2 or 3 inches toward the back of the truck so i can move the axle mounted one back the same amount.

keep coming with ideas

[jerryg79]

this is the only pic i could find of a 78 bronco trac bar set up on the driver's side, there was a site with a dozen pics of the passenger side but none of the driver's side.

If you move it 3 inches back will it not interfere with the coil bucket?

this guy has the dual shock setup right....so yours wont have a shock right there?

[jerryg79]

ok i finally figured out your drawing....

the only thing that sucks about the way you wanna do it is that you lose the ability to gusset the back side since the coil is right there.

[AggieTJ2007]

I think that your plan sounds good you just want to make sure that you spread the force out over the largest possible area of frame so that you put as little stress as possible on the frame.

[stx4wheeler]

ok i finally figured out your drawing....

the only thing that sucks about the way you wanna do it is that you lose the ability to gusset the back side since the coil is right there.

yes i thought about that as well jerry, but that is partially why i wanted to have plate on both sides, and that brace from the indside of the frame, and on the bottom of the frame where the tracbar mount will be. i might try and put a bolt on each side of the trac bar mount. also, with the new plate being bolted through the existing/old trac bar mount holes, i figured this will add enough support and will be better than stock jsut about any way i do it, i guess i will build the damn thing this weekend then we will see if i am right :gigem: .

[jerryg79]

haha, that thing sure did look whiskey tango.

frick why not build something like this?

Oh yeah, I saw it on "TRUCKS!" :rainbow: :D

[stx4wheeler]

part of the reason is i have all the material to build the arms like i plan already and i got it for free, plus i need to get this done fairly quickly so i really dont wanna deviate from the plan at hand, since i would have to order some dom and i would prolly be looking at another weeks set back waiting for parts.

[stx4wheeler]

did some work today, i took the passengerside spring out, so that i could remove my coil bucket, which in my rush to get to tcc i put three welds down on the sides of the bucket to help hold them on instead of going another route so i ground everything off and took the bucket off.

Then i started measuring and planning where and how i needed to make my new upper and lower shock mounts. While doing this i now realized that my heater/A/C blower mounter and heatercore were in the way. Yet this was a good thing because i had previously abandoned heat and a/c so i took all that crap out of there. The tricky part was turns out ford didnt design the engine bay and blower box to work with a big block, so it took some cohersion to get out via a big pipe and hammer.

So tomorrow i will finish making the shocktower/coil upper, and make a block off plate so that the passenger doesnt get all kinds of awesome noise and exhuast gases. This block off plate will be nice and usefull to because it will give me a nice flat surface to mount electronics, and my new vaccum canister.

the bonus pic is what you do when you dont know how to set the timer yet still wanna let your friends know they are number 1 in your book.

[AggieTJ2007]

looks good, and it cleared up alot of space in the engine bay as well.

[stx4wheeler]

and also about 30-40 lbs which is always good.

[stx4wheeler]

finished the block off plate from the a/c heater blower, cleaned up and removed a few wires from my nasty ass harness, i am going to paint it and use silicone around the inside and outside to help keep exhuast gases out.

P.S jerry does that air cleaner top, and filter look familiar. :flipoff2:

[jerryg79]

P.S jerry does that air cleaner top, and filter look familiar. :flipoff2:

nice, but i think you need a longer piece of all-thread.....that wing nut is barely hanging on :flipoff2:

[uglyota]

that truck losing 30 pounds is like a sumo wrestler choosing a lighter diaper :flipoff2:
vacuum canister?

[stx4wheeler]

yeah jerry i use to have that big 4 inch foam filter thing but one day when i was tuning the carb she back fired when i started her up and the filter caught fire.

and eric i bought a vaccuum canister to help with my brakes cause of my large cam.

[stx4wheeler]

no it is just tied into the current system, it is a little bigger than a 1lb. coffee can.

[stx4wheeler]

today i got my extensions back from the machinist, and i gotto say for once, it worked out well working my ass off at my new job in the sun all day. when i got to the machinist on my lunch break all sweeaty and dirty, he says to me you look hot and dirty do you work hard? i say yeah, kinda thinkin this is weird small talk for a guy who can barely speak english. then he says where at, and i tell him he then says wow two jobs, good job. then he asks well how much did i tell you it would cost yesterday. I say 80 bucks. he looks at me again and says i will give you workin mans break 70 dollars so he figures up the tax, and it came out to like 75 something, so i hand him 80 bucks and he hands me back a twenty and says no nevermind you just keep it, then says thanks for the business.

besides that i got the new upper passenger side shock/coil mount done and partially bolted up, bought all new calipers, bearings,yada yada yada, and made the four main parts of the brackets that will sandwich/box the frame for the new radius arm mount.

[stx4wheeler]

well since it appears that my truck not only hates me with utter passion, it hates anyone who tries to fix stuff. my dad went this morning to go pick it up from a friend that had replaced the flywheel and done some clean up work on the wiring in it. Well he calls me asking how to turn on the e-fan, i say turn the nob, well it was no longer working i think the guy undid a wire or something, so the truck over heated before they got it out of the shop, since they were b.s ing while it was running.

so anyway they get the fan fixed, and now the mother ****ing piece of ****, is making some kinda noise when they try to start it i mean wtf it just had a new flywheel and starter put in it. so he is dicking with it now trying to see what is going on and get it fixed.

also to add to the cluster fawk, it seems my trailer i usually use to trailer my piece or crap from home to here is prolly gonna be in use so i must now try and figure out another way to get it up here.

so if i get home and it gives me an major problems i.e not starting right im prolly taking parts off and ebay here we go :mad:

[stx4wheeler]

well he messed with it and backed of the timing a tid bit, and changed the bendix gear on the starter to a 12 tooth one instead of an 8 tooth, something he had heard from a friend of his that builds 460' and that took care of the starting noises, now i only go to be pissed when i got the bill since i am a jew and hate to pay people to work on crap that i can do. and he hcarged me like 2-something to do the kingpins on the 60, and he still didnt find a facking stud that holds the spindle on he said ford didnt make them anymore well no **** dumb ass call dana. anyways my dad drove it and said everything is bueno, well see when i go home.

[eight]

I'd check with a fastener store for that stud. They seem to deal in that sort of stuff.

[eight]

Sell that big ***** and get a sammy that runs, lift and lock it, add 32s, and wheel the fawk out of it. Good to flat tow too.

[stx4wheeler]

kopecki i had thought of this but i would like to find a press in stud that is the same as what came out,im gonna see what i can find, but im not in a to biga hurry till i get to get home and drive it and make sure all the major **** is fixed before i go putting the new axle in.

[stx4wheeler]

well this weekend was a pretty cool, my truck worked fine with no major problems(i.e overheating and bad starting), it actually runs a little to cool i need to order another fan wiring kit so that it has a thermal shut off. i put around a 100 miles on it during the break, and wheeled it some at the deerlease. it started right up all the time except for once when i had been driving it for like twenty minutes or so and killed it. but i let it cool for a minute or so and damn it worked. i think the starter is getting to hot because of the header.

here are a few poser shots, and one of my mom giving the tamor salute, i almost layed it over with her in the car, she wasnt super impressed when that happened.

[stx4wheeler]

well its here in c.s now.

also it wasnt not the f-ed up stering stop that broke, the hydro ram, the heim some how got a dent in the part that holds in the ball, and it seized the heim up, so when i hit this dip hard it bound up and boke it.

[stx4wheeler]

since i was at advance today getting some stuff for the truck i asked john how much a new brake caliper was for the front cause, mine has a rusty bleeder and hasnt been bleed since the lift, so my brakes blow, i remembered them being like 20 or 25 when i rebuilt the seals in them last time, well to my amaze ment they were only 10.90 a caliper, so in the effort to save time, i bought a new caliper instead of spending an hour working on a 20 yr old bleeder :gigem:

[stx4wheeler]

works starts now, todays list, replace front right caliper, hopefully get hydro assist ram afro enginered.

[stx4wheeler]

well got quitea bit done today, got the bleeder replaced, and rewelded?afro'ed the ram, along witha few other odds and ends. :flipoff2:

[CheapJeep]

looks gay as hell.... :rainbow: :flipoff2:

[AggieTJ2007]

welds look good

[stx4wheeler]

got lots of crap dont today, i put new exhaust hangers, fixed the exhaust manifold gasket leak, bled the ram, and my breaks, replaced a headlight, cleaned up some wiring, and most importantly finally havea radio and cd player in my truck, wooohooo. Big thanks to robert cook, and his buddy westin for making a cool mounting plate for the radio, and wading through my shat pile of wires to get everything working right.

[TxCruzr]

What color is the ram? Your south Tejasness is showing through :flipoff2:

[stx4wheeler]

EEETTT's gold maayun!!! BLING BLING

[sasquatch]

[goldmember voice on] I love goooooooooolllldddd [off]

[stx4wheeler]

alright i have decided that i am gonna bust ass and try to get my truck done for tcc, i am gonna pull a week long wrench fest i guess, starting this thursday afternoon. Today i ordered the master install kit, spindle studs, two more heims and inserts for my tracbar, and tomorrow i am gonna order a new wiring harness for my e-fan to get rid of the current mess i have.

[william_ace]

you can do eeettttt

[CheapJeep]

Just a heads up Frick, after I get the heap back together and up here Friday I can start helping you with the 60 swap and everything if you need a hand. :gigem:

[stx4wheeler]

wellwroked on it all day long building my extended arms, and new mounts for them, tomorrow ill finish up the arms, re-assemble the arms on the 44 for the last time, drive it to ryans were the 44 will be taken out for the last time.

[BMFScout]

why do you need a wiring harness to run electric fans? I posted the link, just take out the thermo-switch if you want it manual.

[stx4wheeler]

finally re installed my tranny crossmember supports, and got to drive it with the new extended arms. Now that it finally has the correct amount of caster from the extended arms, and new c-bushings it drives like a night and day difference. I imagine once i put finish up the 60 and put on my new steering, therefore ditching the 30 year old tie rod it should drive like a normal vehicle again. Weird!!

[AggieTJ2007]

sweet, so you will able to drive it around town again, if you desire

[stx4wheeler]

yeah that is the plan is to drive it as much as i can afford to this summer once the 60 finds its home after finals.

[AggieTJ2007]

that will be sweet

[CheapJeep]

hell yeah! It'll be panty droppin' time. :gigem:

[Sharpe]

I dont think I'd want the kind of ass big nasty would attract...

[agjohn02]

I dont think I'd want the kind of ass big nasty would attract...


true dat :flipoff2:

[AggieTJ2007]

ide bet they fit the description BIG NASTY

[stx4wheeler]

well today i worked on trying to make my passenger side half door, look halfway decent and straight again after its clayton carnage. i cut out a large section and welded new metal in, and got the main dents out for the most part.

[stx4wheeler]

took it over to robbies house, to make use of a fairly flat driveway. I have it setting at ride height on jackstands, and measured out exactly how far i nned to move my radius arm mounts to put the axle back where it is again happy. I unbolted both radius arm mounts, marked where there new position should be, and unbolted the radius arms from the axle so that i can use them to know how much to grind down the c-wedges, so that they fit right on the 60 tubes.

[stx4wheeler]

alright me and ryan clarke busted our ass this weekend getting both are trucks moving in our dana 60 swaps. I got my arms finally mounted in the correct place, sleeved only one of the arms, cause i ran out of tube, then re did the mounts for the transfercase crossmember. I didnt like how i was gonna have to cut all of metal from my bracket to use it in stock form.

Then on ryans truck we got his frame cut and notched, and got his front leaf cross member all welded up, and one the truck.

pics

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/dana-60-swap/sff_032

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/dana-60-swap

[stx4wheeler]

gotthe 44 out for the last timea few days ago, and i am now grinding the radius arm wedges for the 60 fun stuff, hope to have most of the swap done by tuesday.

[stx4wheeler]

60 swap pictures its about 75 pecent done

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/dana-60-swap?page=8

[agjohn02]

looks good. id grind the diamond plate flat under the bolt heads and nuts on the heim mounts. they'll load properly and tend to stay tight better.

[stx4wheeler]

yeah thats what i ahd planned to do when i get it back to my house john here is yesterdays work, the lower and upper trac bar mounts are done along with the gussets i made for them. tommy came over and welded some stuff for my last night , and i ower ryan big for helping me with all this stuff for the last week, its about 85 percent done, from a driveability stand point.

all i need to do is do the brake lines and bleed the brakes. then once its back at my house ill do my hydro assist tabs.
New pics start at picture 113
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/dana-60-swap?page=13

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/dana-60-swap?page=13

[JeepPhisherman]

The spiderweb gussets are klassy!

[uglyota]

diamond plate...it's the redneck bling!
you gonna brace that frame-side trac-bar mount to the crossmember?

[stx4wheeler]

i dunno about bracing it, it isnt like on a ttb truck where the crossmember is right across from the trac bar. i probably will brace it somehow. the diamond plate looks like ass i agree, but it is what i had at the time last summer, i may grind some of the diamonds down, or take some light weight metal and weld over and kinda box the arm after the sleeve to get rid of it.

[stx4wheeler]

WEll its had tires on it and has been complete for a bout a week i have driven it twice, and it seems to bea lot more stable and tighter when driving it. i need to do lots of little things to it to get it completely finished
need to do:
set gears
grind diamonds off of brackets
finish cuting and install the inner frame braces
build a radius arm crossmember
sleeve and finish welding driver side arm
Re install hydro assist and weld tabs
change caster a little bit more

[Seth]

Hey Do You Have Any Extra Spring Shims?

[stx4wheeler]

seth i have some that i made from scratch, i may reuse them, if i dont ill sell them to you.

got the passengerside inner frame braces cut and installed today and it makes a big difference.

[Seth]

cool i will def need them. I have some bar stock, did you just take a grinder to them? would ordering leaf shims be easier? I def need them soon, springs are hitting tires ***

[stx4wheeler]

the springs hitting the tires has nothing to do with those shims seth. the shims correct coil bow front to back. you need to use some small u bolts in your upper buckets to correct that like i had mentioned to you before. also it isnt a bad idea to weld a piece of flat plate onto the bottom of the lower coil cup, as well as grinding the top of the radius arm where the lower coil mount sets, so that it is flat.

[Seth]

i was thinking of some kinda shim for the side to side as well instead of flat plate. i think I am gonna grind and flatten the cups too, might see what that does by itself.

[stx4wheeler]

do not grind down or beat the lower coil cup, you will mess it up more than help it, do like i said and weld a piece of plate to the bottom of it.

Also your adding a shim to the side will not work either, because that will mess up your shimming front to back. Also that is not the part of the coil that is making it bow outwards towards the tires. the reason for the bow is that with the soft springs plus having a litttle bit wider frame, makes the back side of the coil is not sit flush in the upper bucket. trust me this is how you fix both problems, i have fixed both of them so make it easy on yourself and do what i recommend to you.

[stx4wheeler]

Alright here is an update. me and cook aligned my shat the other day and i finished most of the little things, and the truck drives awesome. :gigem: Heck it drives almost like it did stock, which is a huge improvement from how it used to drive!

only problem it has now is when i get on the brakes hard at speed it seems to shimmy back and forth some, i am going to check the tightness on the wheels bearings.

Now i have bought and installed stock manifolds, and gotten rid of the nasty headers and exhaust that it had before.
So in my quest to get a y pipe, and single 3 in to an 80 series flowmaster,i have had hell. So i have the truck loaded up today after talking to the guy at rusty muffler, he told me just put the manifolds on and we will do the rest for around 250. So i load it up on the trailer and take it over there this morning. i get there and am taking the muffler out of the truck and goes where are the flanges for the manifolds? I tell him i dont have then, he replies neither do I.
So disgusted i ask, so can you find or order me a set of flanges, he then says with a serious face what do you want me to do Sh*t yo out a pair. then he made some comment about me being a silly college kid. At this point i threw my muffler back in my truck, and tolsd him well then you dont need my money either and left.

I called around to a few shops to find a place that had the flanges, in the end i found some at bryan muffler and performance. These guys kick ass, yes it is gonna cost me almost a hundred bucks more, but these guys know there shat and are very nice. The guy was like dont worry if we dont get it done today, cause of a broken pipe bending cylinder, but he said dont worry man ill keep it inside tonight so nobody messes with your bronco. Then me and him shot the **** about cams and motors and stuff for a while. So go to bryan muffler and performance if you want a good job done by nice people.

[uglyota]

...he then says with a serious face what do you want me to do Sh*t yo out a pair.
that's pretty funny

[jerryg79]

Heck it drives almost like it did stock,

YOu did not own this vehicle when it was in "stock" form. It had been thoroughly mexicanized by the time you took posession :flipoff2:

[stx4wheeler]

welded up the rear tonight, tomorrow i need to mess with the carb and replace the starter solenoid on my lunch break, oh and we are gonna be two wheelin skinny pedal machine tomorrow for the lack of time to set front gears.

[eight]

That's a good way to break a shaft I have heard.

[agjohn02]

somebody told me that once too

[stx4wheeler]

im not to worried, of all the people running sterlings i have only heard of one breaking a shaft and he had 42's and doubler, plus i got spare shafts in the tool box so im not to worried.

[eight]

You have been warned.

So where's this wheeling you're going to do?

[CheapJeep]

(Govenata voice activate) I got de powa to make de panties drop from my fo sizty (Govenata voice deactivate) :flipoff2:

[agjohn02]

You have been warned.

So where's this wheeling you're going to do?



its was a little 30 spline 60 that broke. however, if your engine can break that, the 460 should be able to break the mighty sterling.


try to come out of one of those creeks in 2wd frick. i dare you.

[stx4wheeler]

haha nothing to extremly wild, a few hill climbs and some little stuff. It at 47 pollock the same place that your rear died last time.

[agjohn02]

haha nothing to extremly wild, a few hill climbs and some little stuff. It at 47 pollock the same place that your rear died last time.


and front d-shaft

[eight]

No more front drive shaft breaking. I've solved the axle wrapping issues. Leaf springs are good for things like trailers, but even then I prefer torsion.

[stx4wheeler]

alright today i ditched the crappy e fan wiring that i previously had, and with some help from cook, and sharpe, and jordan finding the vatozone kit for a fan it is done, its adjustable turn on temp, and shuts down at 160, with two 30 amp relays wired in parrallel, and a manual override toggle switch, we also wired up my rock light as well.

[stx4wheeler]

got most of the big things done and took it to 47 today and it did pretty good, considering it hasnt been wheeled since clayton last year. i like having a locked front now as well. had one malfucntion that was on the list to be fixed before clayton and ran out of torch gas, other than that i am very pleased. Thanks to clarke for hleping me set the gears, and sharpe, danny, and asshat, for letting me use your driveway and back yard for the last weeks.

[HULK-1]

No problemo, it turned out to be a successful weekend here

[stx4wheeler]

its all ready to load on ole pete!

[stx4wheeler]

doors version 2.0

[AggieTJ2007]

sado those even open?

[stx4wheeler]

sado those even open?

right now they open, like a normal door, but i am not finished with them yet. The thing i like about these is they are made to where you can just jump right in,cause the bottom of the door is flat even with the floor of the truck even though it doesnt look like that.

[Shaggy]

you are going to fall out

[stx4wheeler]

you are going to fall out


and evidently you need to learn to read they are not done yet. :rolleyes:

[Sharpe]

Why run doors at all?

[stx4wheeler]

cause 1 i dont like the way it looks, and 2 there is a reason i am building new ones, since the old ones are smashed to hell, therefore i would like to have the added protection that doors give.

[TxCruzr]

Kinda like running those door inserts that they have for eb's. Good idea.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

and evidently you need to learn to read they are not done yet. :rolleyes:

and evidently you missed the humor in that he was talkin about you being a munchkin and all. :flipoff2:

[CheapJeep]

Well last time I checked Tate wasn't the biggest guy either...

The doors look good so far, I was thinking the same thing as Joseph about them looking like the e.b. and scout inserts.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Well last time I checked Tate wasn't the biggest guy either...

I haven't wheeled or drank with tate so I don't know how big a boy he is.... Maby TCC???? Babey. :flipoff2:

[KrazyKarl02]

So Frick, these doors, they will not open, just kind of be like an EB with the "rancho" or whatever package that was, you know what I am talking about Stacy on Trucks did it....

Interesting.... I always like some custom work like this, better to learn on the big nasty than something else, that is where the klogger fits in....

[stx4wheeler]

So Frick, these doors, they will not open, just kind of be like an EB with the "rancho" or whatever package that was, you know what I am talking about Stacy on Trucks did it....

Interesting.... I always like some custom work like this, better to learn on the big nasty than something else, that is where the klogger fits in....

yes partially karl, the actual door part wont open but the door skins are re-inforced from the inside to make them more durable, then there will be a hinge with a piece of tube on it to protect driver and passenger from rocks and other foreign obstacles. today i got most of the pieces cut, and ready just need to do some welding.

and unlike the last half doors there will be a "beverage holder" built into the door as well.

[colman]

hmmm beverage holder.....nice

[william_ace]

mmmmmmmmmmmmmm...beverage

[fbronco86]

bottom of the door is flat even with the floor of the truck even though it doesnt look like that.

Those doors are not legal. There is no lip to keep crap from rolling outta the truck. You dont have to have doors you just have to having something to keep crap from rolling from the floor onto the street.

[Sharpe]

Bignastay isnt otherwise street legal anyway so that doesnt really matter does it?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

stay isnt otherwise street legal anyway so that doesnt really matter does it?


This is all I saw when this loaded up, and my mind put Extacy in for the first word. I couldn't for the life of me figure out who was talkin about this or why....

[BMFScout]

Those doors are not legal. There is no lip to keep crap from rolling outta the truck. You dont have to have doors you just have to having something to keep crap from rolling from the floor onto the street.


Tell that to the dood that inspected my Scout.

[Fredo]

Yeah, I'm with Jimmy. I'm pretty sure you pulled that right out of your ass Mike.

[TxCruzr]

I've read about the law too, but not sure if it was a tejas thing or somewhere up north. It, like ever other law, is just a matter of how strictly it is enforced though.

[RCcola55]

mike is right, although i never had to deal with this when i had my inspectors license.

[Fredo]

hmm....then do they have specs on how large this "lip" to hold crap in has to be? I mean, if you took the doors off of most cars, there would still be a pinch weld seam sticking up that is usually covered by carpet and a rocker molding. It's only a 1/2" high at most, but technically, it's a lip.

[stx4wheeler]

if you want to get technical there is about a 3/4 inch lip. but yet by this rule half the rigs in our club arent street legal.

besides if i get pulled over this is the least of my worries, and besides clarke didnt get a ticket for it either when he got rammed up the pooper by the police after clayton.

[BMFScout]

I've driven around Dallas and a few hours down a couple different Highways so far without running into a problem. I would say it's just if the cop wants to be a prick or not. I would bet 98% of them don't know either.

[stx4wheeler]

got saginaw swap all done, it is much nicer when driving on the street, but it is not quite as awesome as some people that rant and rave about it say it is. I moded the main screw in part that gets drilled out to allow for better steering at low rpm. Also without my assist ram wheeling fawking blows i cant turn for crap.

I got my new psc ram yesterday 2 inch piston, 1,1.25 or 1.125 rod i cant remember which one, setup for 3/4" male heims on both ends. This think kicks the crap outta my west texas off-road 1.5 inch ram, it is so much more beefier and wellbuilt. Should have the new ram installed by the weekend depending on when my heims come in.

[CheapJeep]

How much did you pay for it if you don't mind me asking? I'm looking into buying a ram since I'm already setup for it and wonder if spending the extra on a psc one over a tsc one is worth it.

[TxCruzr]

How much did you pay for it if you don't mind me asking? I'm looking into buying a ram since I'm already setup for it and wonder if spending the extra on a psc one over a tsc one is worth it.

the intranet is amazing :flipoff2:
http://www.pscmotorsports.com/index.php?cPath=155&osCsid=a4e5e68250459241385d66240004cf39

[AggieTJ2007]

They are $115 including shipping from Polyperformance. I just ordered one

[stx4wheeler]

or i posted it in the good deals thread. robbie your jeep is setup for the crappy huge phalus of a tsc clevies i believe so it will prolly benefit you to get the tsc one.

[CheapJeep]

Yes it is, but I was considering investing in one that I could easily swap over to my future 60 when I'm ready to do all of that. Just trying to figure out the best option.

[stx4wheeler]

if you want ill bring mine to the meeting tomorrow night robbie and you can check it out.

[stx4wheeler]

cut the fenders yesterday ill throw some pics up todays sometime, as well as beating my driverside half door back in commision, and getting it re installed.

[stx4wheeler]

Big nasty to fat time to get skinnier!!! :gigem:

[stx4wheeler]

didnt get the hood done, and havent matted teh grill back together, also gonna make a new grill insert out of 1/2 pipe prolly. But it is now 10 inches skinnier than yesterday.

[william_ace]

lookin good man

[CheapJeep]

Look's good Kevin. :gigem:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

How do you plan on tying the grill back together?

[JeepPhisherman]

How do you plan on tying the grill back together?

bubblegum?

I'm guessing it's plastic, so probably some glue-type-stuff

what's the 1/2" pipe have to do with anything?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

smartass :flipoff3:

[bcolman]

looks good

[tigweld]

wouldn't it have been easier to only make one cut in the middle of the grill, looks like it isn't goin to meet back very well.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I think once it gets straightened out it will match up pretty good. The before picture looks like the grill is pretty straight to start with.

I still want to know what product or how you plan on fastening it together. Shut up Garrett:flipoff2:

[Doug Krebs]

wouldn't it have been easier to only make one cut in the middle of the grill, looks like it isn't goin to meet back very well.

whatever, like symmetery would is ever a good idea.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

whatever, like symmetery would is ever a good idea.


hooked on fonics?!?! :flipoff2:

[stx4wheeler]

well i thought about making one cut, but wanted to keep the center mounting hole, as well as the top mounting bracket that it bolts to the radiator support with. The center grille insert is gonna be thrown away i cut it and put it in ther for ****s and giggles. The grill lines up pretty well without the insert in there. Now after thinking about it i should have made onely one cut and then just redrilled all of the mounting holes.

to reattach it i will either have it tig'd, but prolly not cause this will prolly cost me a good amount of money. My other way to reattach is, there is a lip on the inside of the grill on the top, so i will use a long thin strip to with self tappers or something of the like to put it back together. Then if there are some small sliver spaces left from cutting i will cut out a sliver of the pieces i removed and use those to fill inthe gap, and bondo or glue them in from the back side. Like i said it is not complete by far, yet if i can find someone to tig it up for a decent price then i will go that way.

[Doug Krebs]

to reattach it i will either have it tig'd, but prolly not cause this will prolly cost me a good amount of money.

Is it aluminum? You'd have to get a pretty damn good welder to do it if so. Thin **** is not easy. All thought welders that good usually pride themselves with being able to weld thin, like the guy at mike's old work that could tig together aluminum cans.

[stx4wheeler]

yes its alumninium, and i haveheard it is a huge biatch to weld so i assume i will be doing the homebrew method.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

When you drill the mounting holes, just drill them a hair over size so that you can adjust it to fit tight. You will be able to see the cut lines, but if you get it tight enough they shouldn't be too bad. I was thinkin that this thing was plastic for some odd reason. I would ask my dad to weld it, but I would rather you kick me in the junk than have to talk to him at this point in time. :cheers:

[CheapJeep]

yes its alumninium, and i haveheard it is a huge biatch to weld so i assume i will be doing the homebrew method.
If you want to you could give it to me and I can take it down to brenham and have it tig'd.

[AggieTJ2007]

I can weld it up if you get it up here as long as it is thicker than the bottom of a beer can, that is the thinnest that I can weld with the machines that I have access to

[fbronco86]

Is it aluminum? You'd have to get a pretty damn good welder to do it if so. Thin **** is not easy. All thought welders that good usually pride themselves with being able to weld thin, like the guy at mike's old work that could tig together aluminum cans.

Well I think welding aluminum cans works well cause its a really good grade of aluminum so it welds decent.

Fricks grill is probably some sorta pot metal alum and I bet it does not weld for crap. It could be magnesium that stuff does not weld for crap.

[agjohn02]

Well I think welding aluminum cans works well cause its a really good grade of aluminum so it welds decent.

Fricks grill is probably some sorta pot metal alum and I bet it does not weld for crap. It could be magnesium that stuff does not weld for crap.



seconded

[tigweld]

I thought mag was like Ti just needed to be welded in an helium or argon enclosure. the that people say that about ti are usually the ones trying to weld it in an oxygen rich environment it is probably just another metal that needs to be fully enclosed in gas. but what the fawk do I know never welded mag.

[Doug Krebs]

I thought mag was like Ti just needed to be welded in an helium or argon enclosure. the that people say that about ti are usually the ones trying to weld it in an oxygen rich environment it is probably just another metal that needs to be fully enclosed in gas. but what the fawk do I know never welded mag.

I've welded Ti regularly and didn't see anything bad. It did leave all sorts of pretty colors, but was pretty easy to weld. Althought it was commercially pure and only welded a couple of 1" beads.

[agjohn02]

I thought mag was like Ti just needed to be welded in an helium or argon enclosure. the that people say that about ti are usually the ones trying to weld it in an oxygen rich environment it is probably just another metal that needs to be fully enclosed in gas. but what the fawk do I know never welded mag.


never heard of anyone welding magnesium. i hear its kinda flammable so i guess it would definately need to be in an inert gas.

[agjohn02]

I've welded Ti regularly and didn't see anything bad. It did leave all sorts of pretty colors, but was pretty easy to weld. Althought it was commercially pure and only welded a couple of 1" beads.


if you are doing small stuff you can just crank the gas flow up and be ok. it baths the weld area in gas and keeps the 02 out.

[KrazyKarl02]

The grill on those, like Frick said is aluminum, however it is as I understand it annodized aluminum, that is why no matter how much you polish it, it never really shines, I am not sure what welding would do to the finish. I would lay a thicker strip of aluminum behind and weld it to that.

Or I would take 5 gallons of paint thinner, coat the entire truck and throw match......

[AggieTJ2007]

I would weld the backside and leave a small but hardly noticiable gap in the frot

[sasquatch]

the heat is still going **** up the anodizing on the front. i say you take a piece of the grill you cut off and make a cover plate and put a pop rivet on either side

your grill is ****ed up on the pass side anyway. i wouldn't spend much time or money on it

[fbronco86]

I once used some JB weld and popsickle sticks and glued the grill of a 86 s-10 pickup back together.

Someone used the front of the truck for batting practice. Worked great.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

never heard of anyone welding magnesium. i hear its kinda flammable so i guess it would definately need to be in an inert gas.

yeah, when Dr. Price started talking about what gases to use to tig weld magnesium, I was like WTF? Good way to burn the shop down if you ask me

[BMFScout]

Fixed


yeah, when Dr. Price started talking I usually wanted to go to sleep.

[TxCruzr]

I once used some JB weld and popsickle sticks and glued the grill of a 86 s-10 pickup back together.

Someone used the front of the truck for batting practice. Worked great.


I was thinking something along the lines of this but maybe something more structurally sound then popsicle sticks...its eventually going to break when you hit the front on.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Fixed

Hell no. That is one class I will not fall asleep in. She is one of those kinda profs you don't want to piss off

[BMFScout]

no ****?

Don't miss her final, she'll tell you to eat a dick if you ask for a makeup. Then she'll add in, "I hope it doesn't effect your grade too much" Then you can reply, "Yeah, it's ONLY 20% of my grade and I had a "B" going in, thanks for that!"

She doesn't like ID majors, and the feeling was mutual.

Sorry Frick, back the the Big Nasty.

[agjohn02]

She doesn't like ID majors, and the feeling was mutual.



she doesnt like any majors with external genitalia.

[bburris]

I had a prof like that who, I suppose, wasn't close enough to being tenured. Enough guys raised question about it and she didn't come back the following year. Everyone got a bump up by one letter grade that semester as well.

Good riddance, *****.

[Shaggy]

damnit there will be several narrow broncos on 40s before i get back to working on mine... i hate you all

[RCcola55]

no just one

[stx4wheeler]

got the hood all cut up today, tomorrow will be spent behind a welding mask putting it back together.

[stx4wheeler]

all welded up, ran out of energy before i got it all grinded, so it still needs some work, also need to mess with my hood latch to get the hood to set on the fenders good. Also fixed the hood so i dont have to close it with my ass. Also got most of the dents out of the passengerside of the hood. :cheers:

[73bronco]

nice!

[JeepPhisherman]

very nice!

[JB]

damnit



i like it

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Looks awesome Frick!

[Shaggy]

looks better than mine

[stx4wheeler]

things to do before tcc
build anti wrap bar-hopefully this weekend
install new hydro assist ram-This weekend
install new seats
replace seals in t-case
adjust and grind hood from narrowing,along with doing something about the grill
install new safety harnesses

pic of seats

[agjohn02]

along with doing something about the grill




that flat expanded metal, not the tread plate kind, with a ferd emblem on it might not look too bad in there if the plastic stuff gets to be a pain

[stx4wheeler]

that flat expanded metal, not the tread plate kind, with a ferd emblem on it might not look too bad in there if the plastic stuff gets to be a pain

yeah the plactic crap in in the trash, the main part of the grille i was talking about was the outer shell that is in three pieces that we got into the tig discusion about.

im thinking do like you said or else take some half inch or so pipe and make one out of that. We shall see.

[agjohn02]

i think someone mentioned this, but im sure that is some sort of pot metal and maybe chrome plated? it probably wont weld for crap. ive watched even very good welders tig pot metal after it had been thoroughly parts washed, boiled, and cleaned and it still just barely did ok. it wasnt near that thin either. id look at all other options before i tried that. two part epoxy and a backing plate of aluminum sheet might do well.

[BroncoJo]

Are you going to do anything with your grill insert? If not I would probaly be able to take it off your hands.

[stx4wheeler]

yes i concur and have decided to go another way beside welding, prolyl just use the cut out pieces and epoxy, screw it all back together

[stx4wheeler]

new psc ram installed, i need to get some more air out of the system, and replace my rag joint though

[stx4wheeler]

messed with the grille some today and got it all back together. I also cut the front bumper to match, and grinded down the welds on the hood. Then got the hydro assist all bleed and put back together. i can feel some difference from the 1.5 ram to the 2 inch. the 2 inch isnt as responsive, but i expected that.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

looks awesome frick

[CRaSHnBuRN]

what did those seats come out of? They look familar. Also, how about a side shot, or one from above to see just how much it pulls in

[stx4wheeler]

the seats are out ofa dodge neon 2004 or later model, ill try to get a pick from above later today.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

did you get them out of a local yard? I seem to remember nearly grabbing a set of similar seats

[stx4wheeler]

no they came from south texas, but im pretty sure dodge made some more seats just like that pair :gigem:

[Fredo]

Looking snazzy frick. Nice work!

[TxCruzr]

did you get them out of a local yard? I seem to remember nearly grabbing a set of similar seats

"Ok, well don't you think that the Samsonite people, in some crazy scheme in order to make a profit, MADE MORE THAN ONE BLACK SUITCASE?"
:flipoff2:

Looking good kevin :gigem: I'm sure you mentioned it somewhere but how much did you narrow the front by?

[stx4wheeler]

10 inches

[agjohn02]

yes, looks very good. got any front quartering shots?

[CRaSHnBuRN]

"Ok, well don't you think that the Samsonite people, in some crazy scheme in order to make a profit, MADE MORE THAN ONE BLACK SUITCASE?"
:flipoff2:

Looking good kevin :gigem: I'm sure you mentioned it somewhere but how much did you narrow the front by?


yeah, but try finding a set of decent seats in the yards around here. In one yard the only set of usable seats I could find were the ones resembling those dodge neon seats.

[stx4wheeler]

madea double u-joint front steering shaft to get rid of the rag joint. Also nasty fab'd a anti wrap bar for the rear, it looks like poopy but works. I need to install the center brace on it before katemcy, Ijust ran out of daylight and energy.

[sasquatch]

get nasty on street and see if it holds

[stx4wheeler]

yeah once i get the gusset in i will definately.

[stx4wheeler]

got anti wrap bar done, took out the rag joint on the steering shaft and replaced it with a u joint. also gave big nasty a piece of old army art work.

[JeepPhisherman]

ol sarge looks good. where'd you get the stencil for that?

[Sharpe]

Does your t-case output even have a seal in it?