PDA

View Full Version : Dana 60 drive slug question



Graystroke
06-04-2004, 02:49 AM
does anyone know of or have a pic of a Dana 60 drive slug. are they flush like this pic of a LR front axle or do they stick out like a standard selectable hub?

Doug Krebs
06-04-2004, 09:53 AM
They are pretty flush... Go look on pirate, I know Poly Perforance makes them.

eight
06-04-2004, 10:16 AM
Most 60s are internal hubed so the drive slug slides in there and a little cap goes in the end. So it'll stick out about 1.5" less than with normal hubs. I think dodge used some external hub 60s so the total stickout with drive flanges would be about 1/4" past the end of the stub shaft, my guess is 1.5" more than that rover. With the flanges on my 44 its about 1/2" longer than that rover.

If you're worried about smashing the hubs when useing hummer wheels that's good, cause it'll happen. My hubs stick out about 2" less than 60 hubs and my wheels put tire about 1.5" further out than hummer wheels. They're both ****ed.

Doug Krebs
06-04-2004, 10:25 AM
Ok poly performance one's

http://www.polyperformance.com/drivegear004.jpg

I know warn makes them too.

Cajun
06-04-2004, 11:15 AM
All Dodge kingpin 60s are use the external design. The cool thing about slugs is that all the rocks can damage is the cover.

Doug Krebs
06-04-2004, 11:22 AM
All Dodge kingpin 60s are use the external design. The cool thing about slugs is that all the rocks can damage is the cover.

I've got a dodge kingpin 60 that has locking hubs, I'm pretty sure they are factory too. It's kind of an odd year axle though, if I remember it's a 93.

AgDieseler
06-04-2004, 11:36 AM
When I was picking up my d60 hubs, I found what I thought was another complete DRW 60. It was actually a d61, but it did have the factory drive slugs. They look a lot like the rover hubs you posted, but stuck out like a normal 60 hub. I can't find a pic, but there are a few rigs out there that run them. I think the rock taxi does.

As for choosing hubs vs. slugs. I have to go with hubs since the axle would see street time, but I do wish for the durability of slugs.

Cajun
06-04-2004, 03:10 PM
I've got a dodge kingpin 60 that has locking hubs, I'm pretty sure they are factory too. It's kind of an odd year axle though, if I remember it's a 93.

After reading up on it, '90-'93 Dodges did use the internal style hubs, same as a Chevy or GMC. I learn something new every day... :D

Doug Krebs
06-04-2004, 03:50 PM
After reading up on it, '90-'93 Dodges did use the internal style hubs, same as a Chevy or GMC. I learn something new every day... :D

You wanted to prove me wrong didn't you! I bet you spent all of 5 minutes on pirate doing that :flipoff2:

Cajun
06-04-2004, 06:05 PM
You wanted to prove me wrong didn't you! I bet you spent all of 5 minutes on pirate doing that :flipoff2:

!!! !!!!!! :flipoff2:

Graystroke
06-05-2004, 12:20 AM
So even if you get the slugs or those poly ones you don't gain to much, right? I was asking b/c when the time comes I may get custom made drive flanges. I know Moser will make them (and the price isn't that bad). These are custom made for a LR aftermarket axle supplier. The nut is just a fancy dust cap. The axles are held with a C-Clip.

AgDieseler
06-06-2004, 08:16 PM
I found a pic for ya.
http://i23.ebayimg.com/02/i/01/ef/54/d6_1.JPG

Here's the ebay auction I got it from.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33731&item=2481456588&rd=1

Graystroke
06-06-2004, 10:10 PM
That's what I need. Now if I could find one local and not pay the shipping. Anybody know where some are. David, Do you know the WMS to WMS on these early dodges? I'm looking for around 64". I think I read the Dodges are narower than chevy and ford axles. I need the pass drop. The width of my '61 LR is 64" from fender edge to fender edge. I'm going to run the hummer wheels that I already have. So I'm thinking with an axle around 64" in width the tires won't stick out too bad and look gay ( gay as in why do you have fender wells and the entire tire hangs out). On another side note I may have found me an engine. I found a Cummins 6AT running take out with a chevy bell housing and clutch assembly for $1250-seems like a good price but it is in Long Beach, CA. Dimensionally the guy said it is the same size as a chevy 292ci straight six. Which should fit in my engine bay. Do you know of any places in the area (TX, OK, LA) that may have these engines-i.e. truck wrecking yards. They're suppose to be common, but I can't find too many of them. I'm calling that Dallas truck wrecking yard tommorrow to see what they have over off S. Central by Atomic to see if thay have any. Anybody else have any ideas?

AgDieseler
06-06-2004, 10:37 PM
$1250 for a 6AT 3.4L is high, and I doubt it's going to live up to your expectations. It's nice so long as you don't need real power from it, and they don't share the same tried-and-true reputation as their bombproof 6BT brother.

If you really do want an inline diesel, then a 4BT swaps with the least amount of work at the cost of vibration, and a 12v 6BT will provide the best performance at the cost of weight. 93.5 to 98.5 12v 6BTs are the best since they come with the P7100 pump, 2nd gen head (allows for more injector options), and are just a better engine.

A 4BT will fit much better than a full six, and will smoke the tires with just a couple of mods here and there. You'll develop more power with the 4BT than the 6AT ever thought about handling. 500+ lb-ft is easy and cheap. A lot of folks complain about lots of vibrations, but I'm convinced that comes from a half-assed job of building motor mounts (like using regular light-duty rubber units on a big diesel), and that problem can probably be avoided.

It's tough to find 4BTs under $1500 with a bellhousing, and it's real tough to find used 6BTs under $3500. I know of one yard in Houston that has several 4BTs at $2000 each, but your best bet is cruising the TDR forum. Somebody has always got a line on them.

This is why most Rover guys go with a 6.2/6.5. They fit like the 4BT, are cheaper, but you have to tear into your fender well to make it all fit. A 4BT is cooler anyway.

As for the axle, I don't know the dimensions, but I think you're right about the different width. The Dodge short side inner shaft is shorter than a Chevy, and the Chevy width is something around 70".

robertf03
06-06-2004, 11:28 PM
Do you know of any places in the area (TX, OK, LA) that may have these engines-i.e. truck wrecking yards. They're suppose to be common, but I can't find too many of them. I'm calling that Dallas truck wrecking yard tommorrow to see what they have over off S. Central by Atomic to see if thay have any. Anybody else have any ideas?


What about that place up north on 35e (maybe just 35, its around denton) that has a bunch of internationals. I'll bet they have a few. I think its Inland Truck.

I still say rover engine and sm465 :D

here is your bellhousing
http://www.aluminumv8.com/mgbswap.htm

Graystroke
06-07-2004, 12:15 AM
6BT is way overkill. I'm not going to be pulling a 30 foot gooseneck. A 4BT would be great except of every instalation that I've heard of is that you have to tighten bolts once a month to keep your fenders or should I say wings from falling off. I think the 6AT is my best bet. Smoother, smaller (dimension wise), reasonable power (120 HP, 220Ft/lbs). I noticed that they are not intercooled. I have an intercooler off an International snub nose that had a 466 DT in it. Maybe I could get something to work with that and squeeze a litle more out of it. A v-8 diesel would take more mods to put in. I would have to widen the bulkhead tunnel or move the breakfast up to the fron of the fenders. My other option is a LR diesel. 200 or 300TDI. These run around $4500-5K. the only benefit to this option is I have a R380 5 speed and a LT230 T-case from a Defender sitting in storage.

AgDieseler
06-07-2004, 06:20 AM
The engine runs on 1-15 psi of boost, and that's low enough that in intake air isn't being superheated. However, even at 5 psi of boost intake air is around 170F, and the closer that comes to ambient the better. An intercooler will help, but it's not a critical component to the 6AT's power, so you can put off an intercooler install until whenever.

The one you have should work just fine. It's meant to flow enough cfm for a 7.6L engine with a high exhaust pressure ratio, and shouldn't be a restriction for your 3.4L 6AT. I think it's a 3" wide two core with 3" inlets.

It sounds like the value of a 6AT is much better than that of a Rover diesel. Parts are probably cheaper too.

:cheers:

Cajun
06-07-2004, 12:34 PM
[QUOTE=Graystroke] ...( gay as in why do you have fender wells and the entire tire hangs out)...QUOTE]

What the hell is wrong with that? :flipoff2:

Anyway, there's a truck/farm equipment junkyard on I-10 between Sulphur and Lafayette. I've never looked around, appears to be mostly heavy trucks.

Graystroke
06-08-2004, 12:05 AM
I called the place in Dallas and they don't have any. They only deal in Two ton and up. He didn't even know what a 6AT was nor a 4BT. I was Looking at the pics of this engine in CA and it appears to have the clutch lever on the right hand side. At first I thought they reversed the negatives or something but everything else is on the correct side in the pic. The place is in long beach and I wonder if they imported this engine. Some of the stuff seems to be from across the pond. This guy truly has a unique collection of junk, like an turbine powered power unit to start F-15's. It sold for 1500 bucks! What a deal!

Graystroke
06-08-2004, 12:07 AM
anybody know what this is? It's a Ford 170 6.6 liter