The stalling wonder - 91 toyota

[Violentv8toy]

Welcome to my buildup thread!

I decided since everyones got a buildup thread (it seems) that I want one too. I've got a great paying job, so i'll be sinkin' some money into the toy in the next few months. My goal is to make a toy that can tackle some wicked trails but at the same time, be part of the RRDH club...and be nice enough to drive daily.

Of course, i've 'built' it before, but it seems i run out of money before i ever finish something. So far it stands as a 1991 toyota pickup with a 350ci that never runs right and leaks like no other, th350 that is pretty much perfect, an np205, d44 front axle 4.1s, 8" toyota 4.1s.

My first question is: should i ditch the axles and go d60/14Bfullwidth?

Otherwise, the change will definately go something like this:
RND1:
-get the 350 completely redone professionally
-go propane
-new front spring hanger (drop truck 2" bring axle forward 1")
-lose rear blocks (lengthen wheelbase, move axle back a tad)
-gloss black paint/bodywork
-propane tank underneath bed

RND2:
-stang seats (neoprene covers)
-new carpet
-tint
-sound
-onboard air

RND3:
-all new brakes
-a/c
-bumper/sliders/winch
-possible d60/14B or toy t-case w/4.0s
-39" iroks or 38" swampers

this time i won't run out of money, and i will complete it and not cut corners.
Depending on the leniency of my new roommates, i might do a frame up rebuild...por15 the whole frame/axles...cut off excess weight. I might skip the d60/14B and instead put the money towards a th350/toyt-case adapter and go with a toy t-case with 4.0s. Undecided. Eitherway, i plan on getting it to a wheelable state asap and will not miss any tamor trips.

[BigRedFord04]

propane is :rainbow: put it on any desktop dyno or the like...you lose like 50% of the power. have someone build your 350 into a GASOLINE fuel injected 383. I'm sure Fredo could cough up a few suggestions on how to do it. the stroker kit from Summit is only $1100 mr. moneybags. i say swap out the axles too. probably wanna go w/ a bigger xfer case, like a 205, but to do that you'd need a 465 to go behind your 383.

everyone jump on this bandwagon...we'll have this toyota americanized before you know it :flipoff2:

[jerryg79]

Don't need no gas, its PROPANE!

Propane is so redneck, the Brune brothers have shown me the light, i think with a little guidance from them even i could do a TBI or even TPI swap.

If not, I think krebs has a couple of blazers full sale with ready-made fuel injection......Oh wait, full sizes suck, DAMN IT. :flipoff2:

PS I love doug! :rainbow:

[Chadnutz]

It already has a 205 mofo. :flipoff2:

[Doug Krebs]

Who said blazer? Jerry wants to buy one? What?

I'd skip the body work personally...

There is no in between having a nice rig and an a good wheeler. You just have to accept the fact that to go on harder trails you will get body damage.

[uglyota]

yup, the way you drive a nice body would be short lived
Does your engine have good compression? If so, I wouldn't rebuild it. It's a beast when it's running. Just make sure and keep the air cleaner on there.
I like the idea of running propane, but it seems like the big tank is really restrictive and everybody ends up designing the rest of their truck around it. It would be so easy to just slap on a tbi...
If you DO go for a build and propane, just build it for higher compression and you get back all the power you lost from the 'pane
Axle swap? I wouldn't...lock that front and wait till you start breaking stuff. Go to CTMs and when you start breaking those, start thinking D60. Current axles shouldn't look so narrow after you get it dropped a few inches either.
If you really have problems with your wheelbase as it stands, get that figured out, otherwise don't mess with the suspension...From what I saw it's pretty dialed right now.
How's about some creative trimming and tube? Don't you still need a little protection in that puppy?
Toy case fo sho! Get some gearing up in that byotch!
I'd put a/c way ahead of any of the other creature comforts...you've already got a cd player!
psst...it's already Americanized...he's trying to fix that!

[stx4wheeler]

like krebs said jsut paint it cheap and skip the body work, i have put lots of time and effort replacing bondo with metal on my pos mystery bronco, and i am asking myself why did i do that cause i am prolly gona destroy it all. oh yeah americanized is the only way to go

[eight]

Well, since you've got wheelbase and money, buy that 203 that was bolted to your tranny and put your 205 behind it. There's a guy on POR selling the adapters for somethin like $450. And twin stick the 205.

[Violentv8toy]

what gearing does a doubler set me at? 4.0? I really don't think that i've got the wheelbase to do a doubler. The angle at the t-case is pretty steep as it is.

The reason i want to go with propane is because its simpler than FI (cause im a dumbass that can barely tune a carb remember?) and burns cleaner.

You're right, propane is kind of redneck, which is the reason i've seen it all over arkansas. I've driven a propane mud truck here and it wasn't bad, and they claim that its not a HUGE difference in power and starts right up when cold/angled/stalled. Not to mention that propane is alot cheaper than gas (though i'd get a bit better milage on gas). I've also heard that a propane engine lasts ALOT longer.

and i said i had money for the overall project...all of its not going to the fawkin' engine.

Americanized my ass...the toyota **** is just as good....if not better...th350 has a ****ty first gear...1-1 3rd...toyota has a hella lower 1st gear and a .75 5th. If i had an engine that would hold me at 75mph i never would have touched a v8. And I really am not looking to put a big ass propane tank in there.

edit: and the propane setup is cheeeep
EDIT EDIT: i can get the bolt on propane setup for 300....anyone have a complete and ready tbi for less than 300? I wouldn't know the first thing about doing the swap. I've seen the wiriing harness and electrical **** scares me.

[BigRedFord04]

you shoulda swapped in a camry drivetrain. :rolleyes: :flipoff2:

[Violentv8toy]

the low range woulda been about the same.

[eight]

Propane will cause the heads to wear out quicker. Kind of like running an engine made for leaded fuel on unleaded, but not as bad. I like the smell of it, like frying fish.

[Violentv8toy]

yeah, its a interesting smell.

BTW...where did that 'buildup' forum come from?

[BigRedFord04]

i guess we forgot one cody

[Violentv8toy]

just bought a th350 adapter and a toyota t-case. Now i'm looking at either a 4.0 or 4.7 gearset....i'm leaning more towards a 4.7 cause i think i can hit 2nd gear in mud.

4.7 - 47to1
4.0- 41to1

2.52 first gear 4.10s in axles.

[BigRedFord04]

what's considered "good" crawl ratio for a rig w/ an automatic? standards are easy to finger out

[jerryg79]

Won't a propane set up freeze over after a while when there is a extended drain on the tank like say at highway speeds. I read that one time on Lonestar from that guy tater. Seems he got stranded due to this one time on the way home from katemcy.

[Violentv8toy]

no...you gotta run a condenser/converter thing.........as long as you've got the coolant lines running through it, it should be fine.

[usmcagg02]

or just buy a bottle warmer like those guys use on nitrous tanks. or make your own out of an electric blanket

[uglyota]

what's considered "good" crawl ratio for a rig w/ an automatic? standards are easy to finger out
torque converter's supposed to be worth 2:1, right? So maybe 75:1 before considering the torque converter would be a good goal?

[AgDieseler]

Most blazer guys that run autos have between 60:1 and 75:1. Your truck is a little lighter, and will probably do fine anywhere in that range.

[uglyota]

Most blazer guys... Your truck is a little lighter...
understatement of the week ;)

[Violentv8toy]

damn...i guess i'll have to go with a 4.7 set.

47to1 aint good at all really. whos got the cheapest 4.7 or 5.0 set? AA?

[J Cooper]

yeah automatics are suppost to double it, mine is a 68.4 to 1 ratio and i just have 3.73
3.5(2)x2.62x3.73=68.4

[Violentv8toy]

i don't understand what yall mean by 'doubling' it...

2.52(2)x4.7x4.10=~96to1 ???

so if i got 4.7s, it would be like i've got 96to1?

[Fredo]

Dude, I just caught up on this thread....if you decide to run propane, I will yell "YEEEEHAAAAAWWWWW" EVERY time you crank that thing up. I can't think of more of a redneck answer than, "Oh, I've seen the TBI wiring and I can't figure it out." Don't be a ****ing redneck inbred sum*****. Be a man, run fuel injection, and it's not like putting TBI on a smallblock is hard.

[agjohn02]

id go tbi, its easy. it only requires 5-7 psi fuel pressure and is stand alone. fred, did you use your stock fuel pump or put in an electric one?

[Doug Krebs]

i don't understand what yall mean by 'doubling' it...

2.52(2)x4.7x4.10=~96to1 ???

so if i got 4.7s, it would be like i've got 96to1?

The doubling effect of the torque converter is because it can slip. Double is not the exact measurement, but it's a good guess of the effect.

[Fredo]

id go tbi, its easy. it only requires 5-7 psi fuel pressure and is stand alone. fred, did you use your stock fuel pump or put in an electric one?


Actually, TBI fuel pumps put out almost 25psi and the FPR knocks it down to 12-15 psi to the injectors. I put a TBI camaro electric pump in the tank on my scout. TBI won't run on a 5-7psi mechanical pump.

[uglyota]

damn...i guess i'll have to go with a 4.7 set.

47to1 aint good at all really. whos got the cheapest 4.7 or 5.0 set? AA?
From what I've read, the 5.0s are doing okay so far, but the 4.7s are proven. Inchworm maybe? Try http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=42

[Violentv8toy]

alright...sounds like FI might be back by popular demand. Does anyone have a tbi setup that they will sell me for under 250 and will tell me more/less how to hook it up?

It's not that i'm scared to, its just that i hate fawking with electrical ****. I hate it. I'd rather work on any other aspect of a vehicle than the electrical. But if someones willing to help, sure i'll go tbi. I've even got a pump for it.

Anyhow, i guess in that case i'll just do a compression test and reseal the engine, put on the tbi, and call it good....or propane.

[stx4wheeler]

me to i hate electrical ****, i put it off till i have absolutely nothing else to work on, my bronco's electrical system lools like someones dog took a **** and had worms, damn previous owner.

[uglyota]

my bronco's electrical system lools like someones dog took a **** and had worms, damn previous owner.
that was foul

[Violentv8toy]

bought everything i need for under 100....TBI it is...its simpler than i thought.

anyone know of any 36-39 tires for a 16" rim that are 70% or better 4 sale?

[Violentv8toy]

RND1:
-get the 350 completely redone professionally
-go propane
-new front spring hanger (drop truck 2" bring axle forward 1")
-lose rear blocks (lengthen wheelbase, move axle back a tad)
-gloss black paint/bodywork
-propane tank underneath bed

RND2:
-stang seats (neoprene covers)
-new carpet
-tint
-sound
-onboard air

RND3:
-all new brakes
-a/c
-bumper/sliders/winch
-possible d60/14B or toy t-case w/4.0s
-39" iroks or 38" swampers



Well...seems the toy needs some time off while i work on it. Things are starting to not work right. At cibolo my front gears got seized up and kept throwing u-joints. After a few frustration throttle blips, it would just spin the shaft and not transfer to the shafts or tires. New gears are needed now. As i tried to get out in 2wd, i smashed my bed/taillight against a rock...so i guess that takes away my "DD wannabe" plans. So im gonna change it up and spend some T/M which sux cause its got a full tank of $gas$.

This week, im gonna pull the tranny and fully rebuild that.
Then im gonna pull the engine and strip it of its worthy parts.
-manifold
-carb
-starter
-intake
-headers
-acc
-fuel pump
-dist.

My grandfather just bought a mech. shop and there was a 4blt main 350 from a 1-ton with all the acc. sitting on a stand. Im getting that and i plan to rebuild it and warm it up with the help of my buddy bubba. Hes gonna rebuild a 350 hes got laying around at the same time. Speaking of which, hes no longer in the club, but hes rebuilding a 72 chevy 4wd flatbed truck which will probably get 40s hes got laying around. Hes got a 465 that he just rebuilt with a 205 that will go in.

Anyway, not quite sure what we're gonna put in the engine. I don't want to rebuild this 350 because its feels so underpowered and tired and iim just fed up with this engine. New engine coming up.

Gonna clean up the firewall, paint it, reroute wires. While its out of commision, i'll put those mustang seats in that i got off here with neoprene covers. Havent decided whether to rino line the floor or recarpet it for 100. Abandoed propane, don't wanna to screw with refabbing a tank. On goes TBI.

Gonna replace the gears up front. Hopefully I'll be able to make our Thanksgiving trip by the time its done.(if we have one)

[uglyota]

why'd bubba quit?
Is the 4bolt 350 in need of a rebuild?
make sure you keep the z-28 valve covers! Bling!

[Violentv8toy]

oh...thats just Bubba. Hes a harsh judge of character. I'm sure u noticed that the first time u met him. Only ppl he really liked was you, Nick and Busa cause they went up and talked with him at one of the first meetings. Hes kinda close minded though.

if the 350 isn't rebuild already (probably the case) i'll rebuild it and put some go-fast goodies in there. Bubba is pretty confident that he can do head jobs now so that works.

Z-28 covers are getting ditched, they are a little bent and leak....but never fear, it will not lack chrome by any means. I've even been thinkin' about getting a chrome starter heatshield. heh heh heh :BLING BLING:

[Violentv8toy]

Alright...so I drove that 350 on friday evening. It is out of a 77 3/4. It ran great...got up and went with 33s and 3.08s. steered great, drove great, rode great, shifted great...really quiet...idled strong at about 500...couldn't even hear it.

So, i bought it. He works for a company that makes ECU's for heavy machinery. He works the CNC lathe and he told me all about it. Pretty cool guy. So he was telling me that him and his friend were the ones doing the project, and he was annoyed that his daughters car took a crap (head gasket)....so he decided that he wasn't gonna fix it himself, that he was gonna pay to get it fixed so they could go ahead and pull the engine either this coming weekend or the weekend after that.

Does anyone have a flat slab of cement and a hoist I could borrow for maybe 4-5 hours? I'll disconnect everything...pull the radiator...loosen motor mounts...pull all the lines...even put a chain on the engine here at home so it will be ready to come out as soon as it i pull it up. it won't tie up a spot for more than a day. Anyone be able to help me out?

[Violentv8toy]

i took it to Oliver Bros tranny shop in Bryan over the weekend. They drove it and said that it doesn't feel like anything is wrong with the transmission, just the engine is really weak....he proved this to me by doing a burnout in some water....he told me to replace the engine and then see....if not, bring it back.

he said he'd rebuild it for 385 labor...which is really high. by the way, that place across from the chicken oil doesn't rebuild autos....or so the old white guy said. Maybe he thought i wasn't good for the money. :flipoff2:

[Violentv8toy]

pulled apart front end...did a little detective work and front shaft engaging...turns out the pinion isn't contact the gears good enough to grab them...it just makes a zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz sound. might have broken the pinion head teef.

gonna pull it as soon as my tools come back from San Marcus....see the extent of the damage. ring is worn from pinion whirring on it. Ladies and Gents...never set up your own gears. we just threw these in one night really quickly to get to our keg. Lasted a long time though. :cheers:

[Violentv8toy]

Does anyone have a flat slab of cement and a hoist I could borrow for maybe 4-5 hours? I'll disconnect everything...pull the radiator...loosen motor mounts...pull all the lines...even put a chain on the engine here at home so it will be ready to come out as soon as it i pull it up. it won't tie up a spot for more than a day. Anyone be able to help me out?

anyone?

[Violentv8toy]

alright. Started drinking and pullin apart my truck today....then i was mostly about drinkin. Got most of it done...just need to take off the alternator and power steering pump and fan.....

Gonna prolly pull it during the week at night under a streetlamp in a deserted parking lot. :gigem:

[agjohn02]

...with a comealong and a chain looped over the streetlight?

if you cant find a safe way to do it. let me know and i can arrange a cherry picker for you in cs if my old co-worker has time. im not in cs, so it wont be simple, but it'll definately be easier than you doing it in an unsafe way. you should be able to rent one there though.

[Violentv8toy]

yeah....could u check for me? I was gonna pull it tomorrow morning by renting one....but if i can get one borrowed for free, i'll postpone taking it out.

Today, Will came by and helped me pull headers and the rest of the stuff off the old engine. All i need to do is the motor mounts and bellhousing and shes coming out....
if anyone would like to help, i'd like to get at least 2 extra hands to protect my aluminum radiator that im too stubborn to take out. Any volunteers?

[agjohn02]

just pull the friggin rad and save yourself some heartache.

and.. yes, ill make a call and see.

[Violentv8toy]

the place on texas/villa marilla....they want 46 bux/24 hours or 46 for the weekend.

I'll pay your buddy 25 for the weekend....or just hourly use of it...i'll prolly only need it tops 5 hours.

[Violentv8toy]

well...accomplished alot this weekend.

Thursday and Friday, drank beer. Saturday I went to SA, got my pig-up back....full 2 tanks C/O pops. Went 245 miles on 12 gallons. Have 15 left.
Its cheaper than the range rover. Also, picked up my new (to me) engine. He dyno'd it on the 11th, and it did ~190hp ~270 tq @ ~4000rpms I'll try to get the sheet thing scanned...looks good. The only problem is that the torque curve isn't as good as it should be. Right around 2700-2900 it gets squiggly and tq doesn't continue to climb until 2900 where it shoots back up. He said something about a power valve in the carb...dunno what the deal was. Also, past 4200, tq curve once again gets muddy. Rotor looks like it needs to be replaced. He gave me a folder full of reciepts and stuff. Great deal. Even got new plugs as well as an oil change last week.

Today, woke up and drove around for a bit, looking for a spot to do an engine swap. I remembered an abandoned car at Saucilito Apts that my friend told me about that hadn't moved for months. Figured i'd check it out. Lot had a good bit of room. There was even a really totaled dodge pickup there that supposedly hadn't been moved for 2 weeks....so i figured it was a safe enough spot to break out HEAVY RED (hoist). Got the old engine out....put in the new one easy enough. Just needs all the acc. headers and all that happy stuff....prolly gonna do that tomorrow. Should be running by wednesday. Thanks to all those that helped me out by lending me stuff, picking up trannys and engines, mating them together in a sexual manner, getting engine hoists for me and giving moral support. Its all appreciated. Too bad we didn't get a picture of the deal. I'm thinkin' that parking lot is a great spot to do a SAS if it needs to sit for a week or so.....like on a toyota...a toyota tacoma. :cheers:

[agjohn02]

glad you got it done. sorry i didnt come through on the hoist but my buddy was out of town this weekend.

[william_ace]

hey garret, you've been summened!

[uglyota]

yeah how'd you like that hoist? I told Lance we should just weld on a trailer hitch and pull it behind us. Sorry we didn't get to unload it truck-truck. I ran out of time (as usual)

[Violentv8toy]

thats cool, no biggie. It makes my truck look like a scorpion.

[uglyota]

thats cool, no biggie. It makes my truck look like a scorpion.
yeah you don't have to worry about it tipping over out of your truck either...
I did a little testing and feel fairly confident that you can drive like an ass with that thing in back and it will stay put

[Violentv8toy]

yeah, i noticed that too

btw....Travis and I decided that Toyotas in the club need their rear axle painted white.

well, it was mostly Will who decided. So, we'd appreciate it if you'd go right ahead and paint your rear axle white, eric.

[JeepPhisherman]

I'm thinkin' that parking lot is a great spot to do a SAS if it needs to sit for a week or so.....like on a toyota...a toyota tacoma. :cheers:

you rang?

Been talking to andy at carolina rock shop and he has a 44 thats been laying around from his old xj for a while that I might be able to get for cheap, as long as i advertise for him and stick a big ass CRSU decal on my truck once i get the axle in. talked to the pops about it since we went in halves on the taco tho, and he wasnt too happy about my plans for it, so we'll see, but i should have a 44 riding shotgun on the way back from nc in jan.

[JeepPhisherman]

yeah, i noticed that too

btw....Travis and I decided that Toyotas in the club need their rear axle painted white.

well, it was mostly Will who decided. So, we'd appreciate it if you'd go right ahead and paint your rear axle white, eric.

may i ask why?
and since when does will get to make decisions?

[Violentv8toy]

well, he had the spray can. Either i buy another 97 cent can of black...or...i just talk all the other toys in the group into painting it white.

[william_ace]

i make decisions always, you will listen! garret get that solid axle now!

[Tilloda]

white rear axle it is...and will wants to sell his bronco and get a toyota

[william_ace]

never!

[uglyota]

...go right ahead and paint your rear axle white, eric.
dang, I was gonna go with chrome, but if Will says so...
I thought "alto orange" was the official tamor undercarriage color :confused:

[TxCruzr]

I thought "alto orange" was the official tamor undercarriage color :confused:

Gloss black or a real shiny metal flake that matches the color of your truck. Chrome is for shock hoops and stuff. All the blingity trucks do it :gigem:

[william_ace]

nope, marios truck just looked so good that we changed it to white.

[BigRedFord04]

i usually paint my stuff flat black and let oil leaks cover the undercarraige to make it glossy. :D

[uglyota]

like having teflon skids!
prevents rust, too!

[Violentv8toy]

got my headers on.

Gonna replace a spark plug...put my new rotor in...reroute my fuel line....mount my starter....put the belt on for my p/s pump.....call it good and start her up...

[JeepPhisherman]

git r done

[Violentv8toy]

K, started up.

Ran good for a while pretty decently. Great throttle response. Then lost spark when the sun went down. I'm thinking there might be a light energy sensor gone out somewhere. I'll figure it out tomorrow when the light energy returns. If i get to bed by 4am tonight i might be able to get it drivable tomorrow.

[uglyota]

yes the light energy sensors are notorious on chevy-equipped toyodys
biggest problem is, they toggle from "run only when light is present" to "run only when no light is present" without warning.
I hear they make steering and cooling difficult too
Shoulda kept the 22re :D

[agjohn02]

Shoulda kept the 22re :D

yeah, then running or not it would have about the same power output.

[Violentv8toy]

k. fixed the problem. It was the rotor. She broke. Replaced. Ran.

Robert helped me put the exhaust back together. Started, ran. Sounds damn good and runs damn good. Tomorrow i'll hook up the tq converter and put the bushings back under the t-case and driveshafts and reseal the water pump and call it done. Then i'll put my cd player back in.

Speaking of which, do i need little gaskets for my water pump? Can i just use silicon? Its leaking cause i just slapped it on like the idiot i am. Im excited about the good running engine though.

[TxCruzr]

Will silicone take the heat? If it will, then that should work, but vatozone should have a seal for cheap for standard gm stuff.

[uglyota]

Speaking of which, do i need little gaskets for my water pump? Can i just use silicon? Its leaking cause i just slapped it on like the idiot i am. Im excited about the good running engine though.
I just used silicon...permatex gray, but I'm sure someone will argue

[Sharpe]

Water wasnt leaking out it was somewhere between squirting and gushing ***.

[Graystroke]

Right Stuff by Permatex...expensive, but the best sealer I've found anywhere. You know it's good when Land Rover specifies it as a Genuine Part replacement. If British cars aren't leaking they're out of fluid unless of course you used Right Stuff.

[BigRedFord04]

Right Stuff is awesome. you'll see/feel the quality when you squeeze it out of the tube. i've also had really good luck w/ "gasket sealer". you still use a gasket, but put this stuff on both sides before installing it. go buy the gaskets....they're like 25 cents.

[Violentv8toy]

honestly, i don't have 25 cents right now. I'll have to drop by the bank. Then that'll make me drop by the gas station....then i'll want to eat out....then i'll end up buying beer for all my friends...then i'll end up getting drunk....and i'll miss my test tomorrow.

I'll buy em when bling bling allows.

[Sharpe]

I told you you could use my orange permatex crap. Maybe not intended for water but I bet it'll get the job done.

[Violentv8toy]

thats cool...i bought some sealant that i can use for my valve covers too and i also bought the little gaskets.

Today i reconnected the tq converter and repositioned the t-case and bolted that down to the crossmember. Reconnected driveshaft. Tomorrow morning maybe i'll fix the water pump and put my power steering pump back into use and drive it somewhere to fill it with water.

Then all i'll have to do is the front axle, air filter, seats, and radio....

[Violentv8toy]

ok its running and driving...but not very far.

I'll save the story for another day. My alternator isn't kickin juice. I'm thinking i might have hooked it on wrong or something happened to it...but i need help remembering.

Alright....theres 2 prongs that face up as you look into the engine. Theres the post on the back.

From what i remember...The left prong (as you look into the engine) is low-charge. That goes to acc. I have it wired to my fuse block.

The right prong is hi-charge. Friend of mine back home told me to loop it from there over to my 1-wire post.

Back post accepts wire from the right prong.....and also has a thick wire that goes to the positive terminal on the battery.

The negative battery terminal has a small wire to ground that goes to the body and the big wire goes to the alternator bracket.

Do i have this wrong? What could be the problem? I've always had it hooked up like this. Maybe my alternator took a crap....where can i take the alternator to get it tested? Do i need to bring the vehicle, or just the alternator? Also, how does the whole electrical system work? Why does the engine need to be grounded? where does it ground to?

[BigRedFord04]

Also, how does the whole electrical system work? Why does the engine need to be grounded? where does it ground to?
why is the sky blue? why does the wind blow? where to babies come from?

all simple questions with complex answers.

to have everything properly grounded you need to have the engine grounded to the frame, the frame grounded to the body, and the body grounded to the engine. this is to keep the loop closed for [negative] current to pass thru everything so that stuff like self grounding solenoids, switches, and sensors will always be grounded in theory back to the battery.

you can take the whole truck to any parts store and they can test the alternator. its easier to test yourself by testing the voltage in the battery w/ the truck off...then seeing if the voltage increases when its running. off should be 11.5-12V and running should be 13.5-14.5V. i've fixed mine a couple times when it wasnt charging by beating on it w/ a hammer or wrench.

[Violentv8toy]

I hooked it up wrong. Shes good.

Thanks for the clarification Austin...i never knew what was grounded to what.

[Violentv8toy]

bought some 4.10s off pirate. I'll put em in during spring break and i'll be back in a wheelin' state.

[Violentv8toy]

mounted seats today. Cleaned out everything. Beat firewall in some more to give my distro a bit more room. Made a new driveshaft. Replaced tranny filter/fluid to some kind of synthetic stuff my dad decided to start selling called Schaeffer.

Friend said he would **CORRECTLY** install my gears next week.

That is all.

[Violentv8toy]

somehow i was talked into putting a 14 bolt under my truck....so i guess now im putting a 14 bolt in.

would anyone like to help me put this big bastard in?

[jwingfield2k]

i'll be in cs from sat around noon until this coming wednesday or thursday. im willing to lend a hand and hopefully learn some stuff as i go. give me a call if you want me to lend ya a hand. 214.475.1563. this computer is in richardson, and its a desktop, so its not coming with me.

[JeepPhisherman]

im down for getting dirty and having a few beers, im sure will would be in too when he gets back from bernie
give me a call when you need some help 492 3164

[aggieblazer07]

I'll be back in CS on Sunday, call me if you need some help 830-965-2416

[Violentv8toy]

sounds good. Anyone have 8 lug wheels/tires that i can use as rollers for a bit?

[Violentv8toy]

weeeellll...change in plans.

I looked at it and decided right now wouldn't be a good time to do the swap. I'll be planning on dropping the truck about 4" up front and 3" in the back.

Front is gonna get a new hanger. My front hanger has 5" of drop (way too much...but thats what u get when you build **** when you're 15) Hopefully i can get it to about 2.75" of drop or as small as possible pretty much.

Of course i have zero wobble as it is right now, so im gonna keep the caster as same as possible so im gonna be frenching the shackle hangers into the frame the same measurement up as the front hanger ~2.5". Then if i need the truck to be shorter, i can get about 1.5" on my front perches.

the rear is gonna lose the 2.5" blocks and the 1" overload and im gonna cut and turn the axle.

The reason im dropping the truck is mostly because of my driveline angles. If i drop the passenger front tire in a hole, my driveshaft binds and will break the u-joint/yoke since its got so much damn droop.

In the rear, if i droop alot, the 1310 yoke on the t-case will bind since them damn chevys can't run at hardly any angle. Hopefully this will cut down on how unstable the truck is at angles and will cut down on how fast my u-joints go.

[uglyota]

good plan
isn't there a place you can grind a chebby cv to make it work at better angles?

[Violentv8toy]

its not so much the cv....when my front cv binds, it won't break...but when the single u-joint on the axle side binds, it will break (or spit a cap) But yeah, i ground down the chevy yoke as well as the axle yoke.

As for the rear, i haven't ground the chevy u-joint (which i will do). And i use a toyota u-joint on the axle side, and those will operate at a good angle.

[Violentv8toy]

anyone have some really tall jackstands i could borrow sunday the 10th until tuesday night? Either that or does anyone know of anywhere i can pick up 8 cinder blocks? (free since i'm poor)

[Violentv8toy]

gonna work on my toyota today at sevilla....if anyone wants to come.

[Violentv8toy]

pulled rear axle....cleaned with wire brush on grinder....gonna do brakes and seals tomorrow. tuesday gonna turn the perches and paint and reinstall.

anyone have some 3" tube perches they wanna sell me?

[uglyota]

Check out the rpm specs on a wire wheel and compare them to the rpm specs on your grinder. Wear your goggles! No more white axle?

[Violentv8toy]

i never painted that damn white axle. will did. it looked like ****. i get parts at cost through work....so the toy won't be such a piece a month from now and hopefully i can go wheeling the 31st.

[bburris]

If you need spring perches they have them at any Jeep parts house.

P/N 1-P4120074

I think they're about $10-15.

[william_ace]

yah right that white axle looks sweet. every toy should have one!!

[Violentv8toy]

im gonna rewire my engine. What gauge wire do i need to use? my crap keeps burning out. Stock harness like the lights and radio work fine. I need to rewire my starter....alternator....choke....and key.

[agjohn02]

http://xtronics.com/reference/wire_gauge-ampacity.htm

[Violentv8toy]

OK. heres my before height. Tomorrow i'll post my after height. (camera is in my land rover)

I got rid of the blocks and the overload on the chevy springs and it dropped it a very noticeable amount. I still need the fitting for my vent hose on my axle. Other than that, its done.

Before:

[Violentv8toy]

Heres the front hanger and shackle hanger that i built at 15 and will change.

Front hanger is 5" drop and its gonna get about a 2" (or less if possible) drop. I'm having it built at the moment.

Shackle hanger is going back to a through frame design. Its got a 7" shackle on it but im going to a 5.5" x 1.5" offset shackle.

[uglyota]

so you're coming to Alto?
look at my spring hanger. It's beefy with a little less than 2" more drop than stock and way easy to make.
http://www.tamor.org/members-rigs/albums/album117/DSCN0371.sized.jpg
btw I'm gonna knock those corners off the front and brace the inside, but mainly for looks. It really doesn't need it

[Sharpe]

You've been saying you're gonna do that for the last 7 months.

[uglyota]

my truck and I both have bigger fish to fry. Ask Karl :D

[Violentv8toy]

yeah, but you have a smaller perch width so you have to go under the square tube. i'm further out so i can go right on the side of the tube and have a super low stance. And even moreso i can still probably fit 38s with trimming if i decide to go back to them.

im not going to alto. i'm going to new orleans. i just need to find the time to do the spring hanger/shackles at tate's new shop and put a flex plate on. I've got new plug wires/cap/rotor/coil/starter/wiring/switch/u-joints and a whole lot more. Other than that, all is good.

[uglyota]

make sure you don't go so high that your springs interfere with your pitman

[Violentv8toy]

hmm. i haven't thought of that. its still in the stock location. and i also got a pitman arm insert. no more welded pitman arm for ole mar.

[uglyota]

that's the whole reason I now have a dropped hanger
and thank God. See, I told Chuy you were getting better...Earl still won't let his son ride with you though ;)

[Violentv8toy]

earl ain't the hot shot he makes out to be. chuy is a pimp fab/welder and can drive....

[uglyota]

it was all in good fun...they were both gettin on it pretty good...Earl broke a few times

[Violentv8toy]

what did earl break?

heres the 'after' photo.

Think it will hit the pitman arm? Should i get a 3/4 heim and insert and run it instead?

[Doug Krebs]

what is up with your u-bolts on your rear axle? Little drunk?

[agjohn02]

those are the new splayed u-bolts. its all the rage.

[uglyota]

looks like a 14bolt followed you home...
looks like you could lose 2" or so on that drop hanger. Do your springs go negative?
Earl broke a 3/4" steering heim and a rear driveshaft ujoint

[Sharpe]

looks like a 14bolt followed you home...

Its a cab & chassis version, 64" WMS, unknown gears or carrier, probably 4.10's though. Its in great condition and is for sale.

[Violentv8toy]

i haven't tightened them down yet. I still might toss a 4 degree shim in there.

yeah springs go negative but not that negative. i guess you could call it 'really really flat'. Its no big deal, if bad comes to worse i'll drill out the insert and put a 3/4" heim above the pitman.

[Shaggy]

i think your shocks are a little long

[uglyota]

they just need more angle :D

[Violentv8toy]

drinkin beer.

heres a picture of my seats. I can't remember who i got em from (my buddy picked em up for me last summer).

but they're awesome.

[fbronco86]

drinkin beer.

heres a picture of my seats. I can't remember who i got em from (my buddy picked em up for me last summer).

but they're awesome.

I think they came from me

[Violentv8toy]

sweet. i don't remember if i said thanks or not. but...thanks....they worked perfectly and it was a damn good deal.

[Violentv8toy]

Now that my POS truck runs and wheels reliably (after i fix it again of course)

I want to make an onboard air tank. Is there a cost efficient way of doing this? Say weld or bolt a good size propane bottle underneath (i have alot of room) and run lines off it? i don't need to run anything awesome or anything. Just something to have about 300psi of air handy or so when i air up or happen to blow a bead. School me on air tanks please. I'm stupid.

[RCcola55]

i got mine off ebay its just a simple 5 gallon tank of a 18 wheeler trailer with a 250psi max, i think it was $9 then like 15 sp&H

[Violentv8toy]

sweet...send me a link.

[RCcola55]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/22-x-10-air-ride-air-tank_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42609QQitemZ800004 3675QQrdZ1

thats all i could find for now, there are bigger one with higher pressure ratings somewhere

[Violentv8toy]

sweet.

The picture is really dark...what all does it look like? do you have a pic of yours? Also, if i keep this tank at 150-165psi, it wouldn't have any problem airing up all 4 of my tires from 8 back to 20psi would it?

[Violentv8toy]

Well i found the 8.5 and 12 gallon tanks on ebay. My buddy says he has some tanks laying around that i may be able to have...so i'll check that out first. My question is that if i fill up a ~10 gallon tank to 170psi how many tires will this air up? How big a tank do i really need? of course i'll go home today and see exactly how big a tank i can fit. Most i'll ever do with it is probably air up tires and put tires back on the bead every now and then. Maybe have an airhorn...but prolly not. We have a big compressor that will push out 180psi here at the shop, so filling it will never be a problem.

[uglyota]

Boyles' law
p1v1=p2v2

volume of your tire=a cylinder 38" diameter and 15" tall minus a cylinder 15" in diameter and 15" tall

volume of your cylinder=231 cubic inches/gallon

pressure has to be in atmospheres: 1 psi= 0.068046 atmosphere

onlineconversion.com is your friend!

[CRaSHnBuRN]

you can always build a CO2 tank setup for pretty cheap. Botco has the regulators, you can get the tank on ebay (harbor frieght had one in the close out section as well recently), and the hoses and fittings can be had cheap at HF as well

[Violentv8toy]

ok....tell me about that.

[RCcola55]

ya CO2 would be your best bet if all u want to do is air up tires

[CRaSHnBuRN]

IF you want to see one you can come over sometime and look at mine. The tank is the hardest part to get. Ebay is a good source. You can get 5, 10, and 20lb tanks. I run a 5lb. I just had it filled for the first time, so I can't say how long it will last, but I know it will last much longer than a normal air tank. Creighton has been using one for a while, so maybe he can give you more info on how long they last. You may also be able to "liberate" a tank from a convienence store or something simillar. They're used to run the fountain drink machine. Then get a 100psi regulator from botco. They had several on the wall over by the welders last time I was there. Then go to Harbor freight and pick one of those hose kits that come with all the fittings, and a gauge if you want it, and you're good to go. The nice thing is, these things are relatively small and compact, plus they're mobile, so you can carry them to other rigs. As for price, I bought the tank for $40, the regulator was around $40, and the hose kit was $15 (but I got the one with the better hose). I think it was 9 bucks to fill it at brazos valley welding supply on 2818. I built my own mount for it. Here is a pic

http://www.tamor.org/members-rigs/albums/album163/100_0025.jpg

[CRaSHnBuRN]

Supposedly you can also run air tools with this setup, but I don't know if the regulator from botco will work for that or not. Perhaps do a search on pirate for more info. Another thought on the tank. Maybe try checking with Brazos valley welding supply and see if they will rent you a tank for a few dollars a month, and then you could just come trade it in for a full one when its empty

[CRaSHnBuRN]

a better pic

http://www.tamor.org/members-rigs/albums/album163/100_0064.jpg

[Violentv8toy]

Great tech, thanks....thats what i was looking for. That sounds like a great price. I was looking at these MV50 12 volt compressors that sell for ~60 bux today. I was thinking about doing that + about a 10 gallon tank or so.

So whenever you run out of co2, you just go to BVWS and they'll fill it back up for 9 bux? Is it safe if i put it between the seats and mount it against the back wall? I used creightons once to air up a tire at TCCIII.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

yeap, takes them like 5 minutes to fill it up for you, or you can always go back and just have them top off the tank for you. If it fits, you could put it between the seats I guess. CO2 isn't flammable, but of course is still under pressure so there is a little danger there. But then again I drive around with a propane tank right behind the seat. One nice thing to remember is you never have to worry about one of these burning up or wearing out like you would a air compressor.

[Sharpe]

Also, with the CO2 tank, it can run a kegerator. Nuff said.

[Violentv8toy]

I'm going to do a 10lb or 15lb co2 tank and place it between the seats against the back wall. My buddy says they've got 10lb tanks so i might be able to get one for free. From the looks of it, a 15lb tank will fit where i want it too. thanks for the help.

[Violentv8toy]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/International-Scout-II-Dana-44-Differential-Yoke-0333_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34208QQitemZ457550 2991QQrdZ1

is this a 1310 yoke (like the 1/2 ton chevy) or the smaller jeep kind?

[AggieTJ2007]

it should be at 1310. to be sure ask him to measure the diameter of the caps, and the width of the ujoint and compare to a 1310. or look up on internet

[Violentv8toy]

K, i have a 10lb co2 tank being shipped to me. I have to save the 60 for the regulator. I Po.

Obviously, i need storage. (ever seen all the **** fly outta my bed?) Im going to buy a few ammo cans...bolt em down in the bed.
I found this place that sells em for cheap, but i don't know how much shipping will be....hopefully not that much since its from OK. Anyone else know where to get them (this cheap)?
http://www.calumetindustries.com/ammo.html

figured get a
.50 cal for hand tools/wrenches and fitalls
.50 cal for sockets/ratchets
20mm for fluids and spare parts
20mm for big tools hammers and breakers and whatnot
.30 cal for a center console between the seats....right behind it on the wall would be my co2 tank.

any suggestions?

[CRaSHnBuRN]

there is a military surplus store on texas by campus, and another one near sears in the mall where you can get ammo cans. Surpluscenter.com also sells them pretty cheap, but shipping on these large items is the killer.