Mandi's YJ thread

[hotshot14]

I'm gonna drive my jeep stock for another trip or so before I decide exactly what I want, and I'm open to suggestions from you guys. So far I think I want to keep my stock gears (4.10) and run 33s, so I need some kinda lift. What do you think I should do?
I'll respect your opinion a lot more if you actually own a jeep (with the exception of Busa, even thogh he swears by toyota)

[chevsu]

i have a set of coilovers that would be perfect for that thing. i'll give you a good price on them.

[robertf03]

this sounds like the reincarnation of a white YJ

[uglyota]

way to step up, Mandi!
I hope the Jeep guys will be helpful with this, but coming from a Toyota guy, I think if you want to prevent having to redo things later on, you should start with a springover and shackle reversal, and shackles to make the rearend match.

edit: and if you want to learn a LOT, spend some time reading here (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=10) here (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=16) and here (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=43)

[bburris]

I think a spring over with stock springs would be fine for you to run 33s. Your stock axles will still like you and if you don't let the springover turn in to the drunken cluster**** that they sometimes are you'll be fine. If you have the money to spend on it you may buy a spring over kit from someone like Rubicon Express (http://www.rubiconexpress.com). It's p/n 5015 if you want to check it out... It may just give you an idea of what vital parts you're going to need to do the lift.

Just don't let Scott set your pinion angle.

You'll need a slip yoke eliminator. I'd say avoid the hack and tap kinds, but if you're not too worried about strength or wheeling it hard then that could be ok. A new driveshaft will follow from the SYE, but you can get a pretty good combo deal from Tom Woods on a SYE and driveshaft. Your stock front shaft will be fine.

Throw your track bars away, they do nothing for you. Get some decent shocks for it and you should maintain a pretty decent ride. You'll want longer sway bar disconnects, so it may be a good time to upgrade to some JKS quick disconnects (http://www.jksmfg.com/) or another brand of your preference.

You may also want to take this time to put decent steering on it. You can get a copy of my or Matt Conlee's setup and it will give you much better steering response than your stock steering working at more angle than intended. You may also just upgrade to Grand Cherokee steering with slightly better geometry (I believe) and beefier tie rod ends.

Any questions about any of this terminology and it can easily be explained further. I'm slightly familiar with Wranglers :D , so I'm more than happy to help.

[JeepsterJayson]

If you spring over it will be cheaper but too much lift for 33s more like 35s. I would get a lift around 4", get good springs do some research I have Superlift springs and rancho 9000s shocks. Save your old springs or sell them. They are worth something but you might want to spring over later and reuse them or go back to stock to sell it. You will want a SYE (slip yoke eliminator) kit eventually. I have a hack and tap from Rubicon express (cheap). And expect to spend around $250 to 300 for a new drive shaft. I drove mine for two years before I got the SYE but I had to after my T-case split into two pieces. The best thing I did was get the adapter for the front shocks from JKS so you can use eye loop shocks. Good luck and have some one in the club help put it on in a day. :gigem:

[JeepsterJayson]

i have a set of coilovers that would be perfect for that thing. i'll give you a good price on them.
Thats a 95 YJ not a TJ springs only.

[eight]

SOA is only about 5.5". The same as every idiot with a 4" lift and long shackles. 33s would be just fine. My brother's jeep didn't look too stupid with 33s, 4" suspension, 1" shackle (got rid of quick), and 3" body lift.

[bburris]

Thats a 95 YJ not a TJ springs only.
He's talking about coilovers...not coils.

...and I agree with Ryan. YJs with just a spring over look great on 33s. I'm pretty sure Lynda had 33" Mud Kings for a while, Suzie's 35" MTRs were about 32" tall, Wyatt's Jeep was on 33" Mud Kings... They all look better than 4" lifted YJs with shackles and body lifts to clear 33s/35s, and they perform and ride a whole lot better.

[hotshot14]

Eric I read pirate all the time, it just takes awhile to dig through the crap to get to the good stuff, and I figured I can trust you guys more than them.
I'm thinkin body/shackle or springover and I want the cheapest most reliable. From what I've gathered springovers can lead to death wobble (i do a lot of highway drivin)and shackles can cause too much stress and bend the tub.
By the way I know what a SYE is...

[JeepsterJayson]

My brother's jeep didn't look too stupid with 33s, 4" suspension, 1" shackle (got rid of quick), and 3" body lift.
He ran 33s with 4" suspension and 3" body lift.

[eight]

Spring over's don't cause death wobble, it can happen either way. Bad caster angles, worn out ball joints, worn out bushings, loose steering, and unbalanced tires do.

[bburris]

cheapest most reliable
Springover.

I think Scott can probably chime in with any info about Lynda's and any problems she may have. The only problem I could see that may cause death wobble on a YJ would be the steering, and that isn't hard to fix. If you are worried about it you can keep a steering stabilizer on it and get track bar brackets to retain your stock track bars.

[eight]

He ran 33s with 4" suspension and 3" body lift.

Yes, he ran that yesterday, and last week, and even 2 weeks ago. But a month ago, it had lift shackles too, made it drive ****ty.

[JeepsterJayson]

Codys is sprung over he will chime in.
I am running 33's with out any body lift and 1" shackles 4" lift springs. I think for the price you will be better going with a spring over.Welding on new perches is the hardest part. Then you might have a smother ride with stock springs. I never have had death wobble just vibration from the driveshaft.

[Cody_91YJ]

Brett hit everything pretty much right on the head. Not bad for a TJ guy :flipoff2:

A SOA with stock springs should be just about right for 33s, around 5-5.5".
I ran 5" back in the day with 33s and that worked out pretty well. An SOA with stock springs is not to much lift for 33s. I had to go with TJ flares and used a cut down 3" BL to clear 35s (also have a couple extra leaves in the spring packs)

Having run an SUA for 2 years, and an SOA for almost 3...a SOA done right is definately the way to go IMO...Rides better, flexes better, etc...wish I would have gone that route right from the start. I've never really had any death wobble, and I usually drive it 300 miles at 75-80mph once a semester just to get home...and to Katemcy several times, and it handles fine at highway speeds

Like Brett said, you should do a SYE at the same time. I've seen people skip that step and get away with it for a little while...but I definately wouldn't recommend it.

I also trashed the front sway & track bars a looonnnggg time ago. But Disconnects wouldn't be a bad idea. The only other thing I can think of is that if you get alot of axle wrap in the rear, it might be worth looking into a traction bar or similar setup, but you'll probably be fine. Oh, and don't forget the brake line extensions ;)

I just finished my 3rd test this week and my brain is fried. If you have more questions I'll see what I can come up with

[Ben97XJ]

Don't let anybody tell you the Hack in tap suck. The RE hack and tap is what me and conlee both run. Its cheap and easy not hard to do at all. Most aftermarket kits are just a cut down stock shaft anyway except for the $$$ ones which are a little beefier.

[robertf03]

Don't let anybody tell you the Hack in tap suck. The RE hack and tap is what me and conlee both run. Its cheap and easy not hard to do at all. Most aftermarket kits are just a cut down stock shaft anyway except for the $$$ ones which are a little beefier.


32 spline sye's have gotten so cheap in the past year that I think its worth it to run a regular cv yoke driveshaft than have to get one with that flange deal.

then you can run a cut down wagoneer/cherokee/gm front cv driveshaft

just don't get the advanced adapters kit. it has some fitment issues on older YJ's.

[bburris]

From her signature, she has a '95 so the AA kit should be fine... I'd run the JB Conversions if I had a choice though.

[redcagepatrol]

Just don't let Scott set your pinion angle.

You'll need a slip yoke eliminator. I'd say avoid the hack and tap kinds
I set the angles just fine - as long as you put oil in it. I can't maintain everones truck...

I've done / helped with 4 springovers - we got them down to 6.5hrs from the time we pulled the jack out to the time we drive it out. That's with making the spring perches and fabbing up shock mounts.
Lynda, Suzie, Bobby, and Wyatt.

You can do a spring over for next to nothing as long as you know how to weld and have some steel around. The only thing that you really need to buy is a dropped pitman arm - with the SYE soon after.

SYE: I have done the hack and tap kinds, and the shaft replacement kinds. They both work the same - I like flanges and Tom Woods had a pretty good deal with his kit. It was like $410 after shipping with a new driveshaft.

I would suggest longer brake lines and a new steering stabilizer though.

Death wobbles come and go as steering parts wear out and get replaced - on the Jeeps, on my Dodge, on any Dodge product... Bump steer will depend on the steering stabilizer and dropped pitman arm. Swaying will depend on the shock placement.

[Matt Conlee]

Yes like ben said hack and tap kits are the ****. Troy even had the hack and tap before his 300 and not even he could manage to break it and I think that says alot.
I do think the hack and tap for a YJ cost a little more money and the kits a little different.

[redcagepatrol]

Yes like ben said hack and tap kits are the ****. Troy even had the hack and tap before his 300 and not even he could manage to break it and I think that says alot.
I do think the hack and tap for a YJ cost a little more money and the kits a little different.
anything that keeps you from having to pull that stupid case apart and dealing with that stupid chain is a good idea in my book. They use like super glue RTV on those things from the factory and they never seal back up right - scraping and cleaning all the surfaces, getting the chain back on - it all just sucks...

[bburris]

NP231s are super simple. It takes all of an hour to pull one apart, drink a beer, then about another hour to put it all back together...

It must be a Jeep thing Scott.:flipoff2:

[JeepsterJayson]

I found the shock adapter from JKS.

http://www.jksmfg.com/shock_conversions.htm

I thought they were cheaper than $35. If you want to eliminate the stud style shock in the front for better flex they help and shocks are cheaper with the eye hole loop.

Here is a 95 SOA with price list.

http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/soa.htm

[hotshot14]

and I usually drive it 300 miles at 75-80mph once a semester just to get home...and to Katemcy several times, and it handles fine at highway speeds


well my little four banger won't be able to do that, maybe i should spend money on a bigger engine and a radio or somethin...

[bburris]

If you have 4.10s and 33s you'll still be able to pull 65-70 on the highway. It won't be a speed demon, but I drove the hell out of mine like that for quite a while. With 4.56s and 36s now I hit 80 with a nice tail wind...

[Lynda]

You can also kiss 5th gear goodbye and don't even try to enter a freeway with your air conditioner on :p Anymore I just hang out in the right lane and wave at everyone passing me on the left :rolleyes: