350 rebuild kits?

[Violentv8toy]

I'm looking into buying a rebuild kits for a 4 blt main 350 from a 79-80 chevy truck.

Most kits give u different options and im just trying to better understand these options. Fredo? maybe you can help me understand.

1. Pistons - Dish or flat top? What are the pros/cons of each one?

2. Bearing sizes - STD, .010, .030, etc. I'm guessing that if you bore out your cylinders .030, you need .030 bearings?

3. cams - i don't understand lifts and durations and things like that...what do they mean and what should i be aiming for? I'm guessing im looking for something that will give me the most torque 1000rpm-35000rpms? If i get a 'big' cam, will that affect my ability to produce a good strong idle and affect my throttle response from idle?

4 boring out or not - Pro's cons of each? When do you decide to bore and not to? when the wall is scarred? will a 355 make more power?

I'm also planning on adding TBI onto this engine sometime. Is there any problem running TBI on something that is not a bone stock 350? I bought a couple of books on amazon already, just waiting for them to come in. Besides that, i've been reading on hotrodder.com and most of em seem to recommend these 2 kits.

http://motorworksengines.theshoppe.com/chevy_350_rebuild_kit_1968_1985.html

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductId=148

which looks to be a better kit?

[BigRedFord04]

the pistons you choose will set your compression rating. shoot for about 9:1 if you're going to use 87 octane pump gas.

the bearing sizes are referring to the size of the crank. if you have to have the crank tuned, you're going to need thicker bearings to make up the difference. when i rebuilt my engine the crank got .010/.010, which means it was turned down that much on the rods and mains, respectively. i was told it adds a bit of torque.

i dont know much about cams, but i do know that most big stupid cams that give a really lopy idle are no good for most of the things they get put in. they give you a power band thats WAY too high. check w/ comp. cams for the "xtreme off-road" cam....super power from 600-2000 RPMs.

boring the engine really should only be done if the cylinder walls are pitted, otherwise just flex hone it again. i dont care what they tell you tho...."there's no subsititute for cubic inches". the only downfall is if it needs a rebuild later, and its already been bored once, it limits what you can do the 2nd time.

you'll have to tune the TBI, probably with bigger injectors to keep up w/ more performance...but i'm not 100% sure...Fredo?

check with summit for complete rebuild kits...they've usually got really good prices and the kits come complete with everything you need, sometimes you get choices of what brand stuff to go with, like pistons, rods, cranks, etc.

[eight]

Boring is not only for pitted cylinders. Cylinders wear more at top than bottom, and sometimes wear egg shaped. And a hone can only take out very light scratches. Its mainly done to get the cylinders back to perfect cylinder shape, or for deep scaring. If it needs boring, have it bored no more than necessary.

Just get a torquer cam. About the second smallest cam most manufacturers make. Yes they're usually about 1000-3500 range. Not much point in going lower when you have an auto.

Having a crank turned has nothing to do with torque.

[JeepsterJayson]

Austin is right about the cams. If you want to get a low torque cam look at the Comp Cams "Xtream energy 4X4" I run a 270 duaration @ .050* cam kit(12-239-3). Also If you are going to buy a cam just call summit racing or jegs and ask about applications. If you get someone who knows what there talking about they will be alot of help. Also check www.pawengineparts.com (Performance Automotive Warehouse) for really anything you need and whey usually run cheaper. You might have to order a catalog though. :gigem:



Having a crank turned has nothing to do with torque.

Actually it affects torque is the most minamal way possible by removing rotational mass. Not going to help you any by removing it at the rod and main jounals though. It is manly effected on race enigines where they remove excess material from less stressed areas to produce lighter rotating mass. BUt yeah they don't have cranks turned to gain torque.

[Sharpe]

My favorite place for chevy parts is www.sdpc2000.com Its called Scoggins Dickey Parts Center and they have the most high quality Chevy parts I've seen. I bought an engine rebuild kit for them w/ fel-pro gaskets, comp cams cam, speed-pro pistons, etc. for ~$300 They're a great company.

[eight]

Actually it affects torque is the most minamal way possible by removing rotational mass. Not going to help you any by removing it at the rod and main jounals though. It is manly effected on race enigines where they remove excess material from less stressed areas to produce lighter rotating mass.

Nope, that effects how fast the motor revs. Not torque.

[Violentv8toy]

the pistons you choose will set your compression rating. shoot for about 9:1 if you're going to use 87 octane pump gas.

What is stock compression? Should i definately for with a dished piston?

[Sharpe]

IIRC stock compression on pre-Vortec tree-fitties was 8-8.5:1. When they came out with the Vortec head, they bumped it up to 9.5:1 because its a kickass design and aluminum head, which allowed 87 octane gas to still be used with no pinging. Vortecs are the shiznit, thats what I will be ordering from Scoggins Dickey as soon as I find a buyer for my left nut.

[jerryg79]

IIRC stock compression on pre-Vortec tree-fitties was 8-8.5:1. When they came out with the Vortec head, they bumped it up to 9.5:1 because its a kickass design and aluminum head, which allowed 87 octane gas to still be used with no pinging. Vortecs are the shiznit, thats what I will be ordering from Scoggins Dickey as soon as I find a buyer for my left nut.

Umm go pick up a vortec head and then tell me that they are aluminum. They are cast iron. :rolleyes:

Also scoggins-dickey is not the greatest place ever, Pace performance has just as good of deals and even though they are in ohio (more shipping) you dont have to pay sales tax. On my motor i actually saved $300 dollars over scoggins dickey even though i had to pay more for shipping from Ohio instead of Lubbock(where scoggins dickey is). If I were buying vortec heads i'd just by them off ebay ~$300/pr.

Also vortec heads requie a different intake = more $

[stx4wheeler]

mario i think i have my paw performance accessories warehouse books here in c.s and yes dont go to big on the cam i did and i have a bad feeling it is gonna bite me in the ass when i start wheelin it, but it does sound badass. go for a cam that runs from idle to like 3000 at most or so i am dumb and got one that runs 2000-6000 not saying that my engine will run that high rpm without problem hell the valves on mine prolly would float around 5000, but at 2000 there is a quite significant boost in power when it kicks in.

[BigRedFord04]

the CRANE tech line gave me the wrong p/n for my cam....so i got the wrong one in my truck as well...powerband ~2200-3800....i'd like it lower. for most wheeling you're going to want the low RPM power...unless you're into mud races :rainbow:

[Violentv8toy]

so the general consensus is that i should get a cam?

[BigRedFord04]

yes, do what we say....afterall....its your $$ we're spending so why not just get a crate blown 540? :D

how much are you looking at spending btw?

[TxCruzr]

Since your going to be using it for rockcrawling then just set it up for low end torque. Do a simple rebuild with nothing fancy to keep it cheap (cheaper) and just add a set of vortec heads and a RV cam or something simular.
Your not going to blow anyone off the line but your still going to have plenty of power and I doubt your ever going to feel like you need more.

[Violentv8toy]

budget-wise, i can probably spend 1k on the engine, but obviously i want to keep it cheap. I just want a strong running v8. I'd rather spend the remainder and put 5.30s in.

Are vortech heads really necessary?

EDIT: more importantly, can i still use my edelbrock performer and will my headers bolt up?

[TxCruzr]

The heads are necessary. Just depends if you want a little more compression or not. You probably wouldn't be able to tell a big difference in low gear.
Your intake and headers should still bolt up...not 100% sure though.

[Sharpe]

Oops you're right, vortecs are iron. Oh well that just means they're uber-well engineered to have that high compression and still run on 87 octane. I was planning on going with a kit Scoggins Dickey offers that has the vortec heads and the GM performance Parts intake (GM is the only company that makes ANY intake to fit TBI and Vortec heads) for right around ~$1k. Later on, I am going to upgrade exhaust to Headers by Doug Tri-Y's and duals all the way back, then some TBI upgrades. I'm shooting for around 400 HP, very attainable from a smallblock for not too much dinero.

[RCcola55]

the key to building a purpose engine, is finding the power band u want then matching the parts that will make that happen. for instense if u want an engine with a lot of bottom end power and torque dont go for the big lift cams with a lot of duration or heads with huge valves and tiny combustion chambers. when u go to buy ur parts talk to a sales rep that has engine building experience and get him to match u a cam and head combination, edelbrock makes several "Power Packages" to choose from, just order one of there cataloges and check them out. when it comes to cam try to go with one that has about 204*@.50" intake 216*@.50" exhaust and about .427"/.454" lift, and heads dont let the intake valves be much more the 2.00" or u could lose bottom end power, these numbers are for most S.B. motors both ford and chevy and will give u great power between idle and 4500 rpms

[jerryg79]

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Cylinder_Heads/Vortec.html

Scroll Down

All the info. you could ever want to know about vortec heads. There are a number of different casting #'s. You want the 10239906 and 12558062. As far as the intake, special ones are needed all the part #'s for everything you need are listed on that website. Like I said you can pick up a set on ebay for like $300-400. If you are looking at a $1000 rebuild you might be hard pressed to get the heads and still get the whole rebuild in under that #.

Edit: it says inthe article that 10239906's are to be avoided but those are the ones I've always heard everyone wanting.

[BigRedFord04]

edebrock performer....as in....carbuerator intake? WTF? if you're going to build an engine for crawling for jebus sake put some fukking fuel injection on it. spend less on the guts if you have to...a plain jane stock 350 is more than enough to throw a toyota around....if you can keep it running on an incline.

[Sharpe]

The $1k price was just for the head and intake kit. I already have a 355 shortblock assembled and ready to go. The ones Scoggins Dickey sell come completely assembled with quality parts, and you can get them with stouter valvetrains if you intend to run more lift. I'm just choosing SD because I've dealt with them before, they have good parts and awsome customer service.

[RCcola55]

edelbrock makes kits for all fuel injected motors including tbi, besides they basicly consist of heads, cam & lifters, and timing components

[BigRedFord04]

useless clarification....

he's running a carb now. i'd generally assume that since he wants to use the same intake, he probably was thinking about putting it back on. just saying thats a bad idea.

btw...you'd be better off with a single plane intake than that dual plane performer.

[jerryg79]

The $1k price was just for the head and intake kit. I already have a 355 shortblock assembled and ready to go. The ones Scoggins Dickey sell come completely assembled with quality parts, and you can get them with stouter valvetrains if you intend to run more lift. I'm just choosing SD because I've dealt with them before, they have good parts and awsome customer service.

I was referring to Mario's $1000 budget, seeing as this is his thread

[Violentv8toy]

talk about whatever, its everyones thread, as long as it pertains to a smallblock.

Yeah, i've got a 1000 budget and im gonna put a carb back on it until i put the TBI on. I'll need a TBI intake.

EDIT: after reading that, i think vortec heads are out. I'd have to run a vortec intake and go from there.

[Sharpe]

Well there are ALOT of intake options for carbs and Vortec heads out there. Unless you are emotionaly attached to the intake you have, you can sell it on ebay and get another one. Going by your budget I'm gonna say you're probably going to have to stick to stock parts. Get a few good small block building books and find part #'s for the best factory heads for you. Carb'd 350's usually go for $300-400 at junkyards so a decent rotating assembly shouldnt set you back too much. Edelbrock injection and a $1k budget...***, I dont know if they make anything else but the only injection kit I've seen from them is like $1500 alone (but they do offer it for previously carb'd or TBI'd trucks...sweeet).

[Fredo]

holy ****......where to begin. I'm a bit busy right now at work, but I'll be back to follow up on this.

[eight]

holy ****......where to begin. I'm a bit busy right now at work, but I'll be back to follow up on this.

Finally gonna get some real info. I'd like the recipe for Freddy's ultimate TBI injected offroad 350.

[stx4wheeler]

just to give you idea on how much it might cost i spent around 1200-1500 on my rebuild take into affect that sbc parts will be cheaper then fordbb papts, but i got my block bored .030 and got all new everything and had the engine shop that did the boring work assemble the short block and it ran my like 635 for it all ready to go, then i had the heads redone with new valves and that was like another 200 or 225. then i bought the afer market cam and staight up timing set and swapped it out with the stock chain and cam they put in my short block. and to try and prevent other problems i replaced the water pump, and timing chain cover, oil pump. one thingto keep in mind is it seemed to nickle and dime me to death i was shooting for like 1 grand and spent slightly more to get all new parts. hope fred can give you some good info.

[Fredo]

Ok, here we go.

As far as rebuilding a smallblock, a $1000 budget is fairly slim. Not to say it can't be done for that, but saying that you aren't going to get the components you might want or you might have to reuse some parts you might not want to.

Now for a 350 to power a Yota, I wouldn't dump a bunch of High Performance goodies into it because a bone stock smallblock is going to have plenty of power for wheeling.

Starting with machine work, that is going to be where a good chunk of your budget is going to be blown. Expect to spend anywhere from $500-1200 depending on parts used and whether or not the machine shop does the assembly work. I know you can get out of a machine shop a whole lot cheaper if they don't do the assembly work. But, I wouldn't suggest doing the assembly yourself unless you have done it before or you have the help of someone with a good amount of experience.

Let's just say you do the cleaning, checking of clearances and end-gap, and the assembly yourself. With vatting and magnafluxing the block, boring the cylinders, line boring the crank journals, new pistons installed on the rods, rod and crank bearings, cam bearings pressed in the block, freeze plugs pressed in the block, heads checked and fluxed, and valve seats reground, you're probably going to get out for $500-600.

Let's also say you let them assemble it, labor and parts, you aren't getting an assembled long block out of there for under around $950 unless you are slobbin the machinists knob.

Granted these prices are if you are simply changing pistons, bearings, cam, lifters, valvetrain, valves, gaskets and reusing the exsisting block, heads, rods, and crank. If any of those are messed up, you are going to be spending more obviously.

Now moving on to what needs to be put in it. Usually, a motor that is up the miles is going to need the block bored and the crank turned. Bsically, most of the time reboring and turning of the crank usually turn out to be a .030 bore, and a .010 under crank. So obviously, you'll need .030 pistons and .010 over bearings.

As far as what pistons to run, it all depends on what you want and what kind of heads you are running. If you are running stock 1970-90is castings, they will more than likely be 76cc chamber heads, which with flat top pistons will yield around a 8.75-9:1 compression ratio respectively. Now with a dished piston, you're looking at 8.25 to 8.5:1. Now if it has 64cc chamber heads, those numbers change obviously to bring a flatop up to around 10.5:1 and a dished to around 9.25:1. I personally would try to maintain around 8.75 to 9:1 in a mostly stock rebuild with stock heads. It will still make decent power and run cool, even if it is .030 bored over.

Now on to valvetrain. As far as a camshaft, I wouldn't get too wild if you're planning on running TBI later on. With 9:1 compression, factory heads, and the chance of running TBI, I would either go with Comp Cams XE249H grind which is a EFI cam, or their Extreme4x4 cam, grind number X4254H, which either can be ordered in their "k" kit which is valvesprings, spring seats, retainers, valve seals, and lifters along with the cam. You still have to buy rocker arms and pushrods, but those are relatively cheap for a smallblock.

Other than those key components, everything else is pretty straightforward, and you will have around a 260hp smallblock with 300+ ftlbs of torque. Not a monster by any means, but a decent relatively cheap, reliable motor that will work well for the job.

Oh yeah, an intake manifold, just run some sort of aluminum 4bbl DUAL plane intake. Do not run a single plane. It will have better throttle response and low end torque on that type of motor, and with a $40 adapter plate, you can bolt a TBI throttle body right on top of it.

If you have anymore questions, please feel free to ask. Thanks. :beer:

[BMFScout]

funk that ****, buy a 5.3 for $1500 bucks or less and have aluminum heads, coil per cylinder, etc.... and then you can also brag about your "LS-1"

[Violentv8toy]

Ok, here we go.

As far as rebuilding a smallblock, a $1000 budget is fairly slim. Not to say it can't be done for that, but saying that you aren't going to get the components you might want or you might have to reuse some parts you might not want to.

Starting with machine work, that is going to be where a good chunk of your budget is going to be blown. Expect to spend anywhere from $500-1200 depending on parts used and whether or not the machine shop does the assembly work. I know you can get out of a machine shop a whole lot cheaper if they don't do the assembly work. But, I wouldn't suggest doing the assembly yourself unless you have done it before or you have the help of someone with a good amount of experience.

Let's just say you do the cleaning, checking of clearances and end-gap, and the assembly yourself. With vatting and magnafluxing the block, boring the cylinders, line boring the crank journals, new pistons installed on the rods, rod and crank bearings, cam bearings pressed in the block, freeze plugs pressed in the block, heads checked and fluxed, and valve seats reground, you're probably going to get out for $500-600.

Let's also say you let them assemble it, labor and parts, you aren't getting an assembled long block out of there for under around $950 unless you are slobbin the machinists knob.

Now moving on to what needs to be put in it. Usually, a motor that is up the miles is going to need the block bored and the crank turned. Bsically, most of the time reboring and turning of the crank usually turn out to be a .030 bore, and a .010 under crank. So obviously, you'll need .030 pistons and .010 over bearings.

Oh yeah, an intake manifold, just run some sort of aluminum 4bbl DUAL plane intake. Do not run a single plane. It will have better throttle response and low end torque on that type of motor, and with a $40 adapter plate, you can bolt a TBI throttle body right on top of it.



First of all, excellent info...thanks.

I plan on doing everything myself with the help of 2 friends and my dad...they've rebuilt SBs BBs with great success, so i should be good in the assembly dept. I'll have to get the crank turned at a machine shop, and rebored if i need it. I don't think im gonna use any other heads than the ones that are already on the engine. Whats the diference between a dual plane and single plane intake?

EDIT: nm, i figured it out.

[TxCruzr]

edebrock performer....as in....carbuerator intake? WTF? if you're going to build an engine for crawling for jebus sake put some fukking fuel injection on it. spend less on the guts if you have to...a plain jane stock 350 is more than enough to throw a toyota around....if you can keep it running on an incline.

I'm running a q-jet and it runs on its side. And best of all, it's alot cheaper and easyer to mess with than FI . :D

[BMFScout]

I agree that a q-jet will run on it's side, I disagree that it will run standing on your back bumper, downhill it runs pretty good. Anyone that says their carb runs just great has not had fuel injection on the same motor. That TBI woke my engine up, no more stuttering, better top end, better mileage, and I noticed this all in the one week I drove it prior to rolling :( I also agree with the cheaper part, but it is not easier to mess with than a closed loop system, adjusting when you go to a different altitude, having to rebuild that damn thing in a bathroom in Las Cruces, even when it ran fine when we left. I liked the q-jet over the thermoquad that came on the scout, but it fails miserably to TBI. I am sure you were expecting some outlash like this, so I digress...:)

[BigRedFord04]

if you're going to have the machine work done in CS, stay away from Cooks (the NAPA in Bryan)....they're pretty unreliable. i used to work for Vilas and know they do a pretty good job. they rebuilt the motor in my truck before i worked there and its got ~25,000 miles on it...no internal problems. they're really good about working with you on exactly what machining you need and what "could" be done...just tell them you're a poor college student and they'll understand.

now...as much fun as you'll miss out on by rebuilding this and ordering lots of parts and paying for stuff etc etc etc....i've gotta halfway agree w/ jimmy....why not look for a running motor you can spend $1000 on and have it in within a week? kinda bypasses all the BS, and its not like a carbed 350 is hard to find.

[Violentv8toy]

I don't know why. I probably should. You know anywhere that has a good running 350 short block that will last me the next 20k miles without significant maint.?

If not, thats fine. I kinda want to rebuild an engine to ease my curiousity.

[uglyota]

try the thrifty nickel and houston chronicle classifieds

[Violentv8toy]

----------------------
5.7L (350 cid) for sale

Location San Antonio, TX, (Northwest side)
Price $300
Basically a stock '78 350 with:

cam - Cam Dynamics Energizer P/n 10003
aluminum Intake - Edelbrock Performer Model 2101
carburetor - Edelbrock 600cfm Model 1406 w/ electric choke
ignition - GM HEI, dist replaced about 3 yrs ago

All top hardware included, some front brackets included
Flex plate included

Engine was balanced when rebuilt. Have receipts for all parts and work.

Engine is in vehicle now, can see it run and drive. It is used as daily driver. Blows a puff of blue smoke at startup. Otherwise no problems.

We will be removing engine in two weeks to install 5.7L TBI engine.
---------------------------------

what do yall think about this? I figure even the top end would be worth buying....

what do yall think is with this "blue smoke at startup" ?

Vavle guides/seats? How much would it be to replace those?

[BigRedFord04]

if you're going to buy one, hold out for something w/ TBI...you've already got a carbed 350. also, i couldnt justify buying something with known problems already.

[Violentv8toy]

im not going TBI...at least not right now. I don't have all the parts for it.

Thing is with this, If i fix the blue smoke problem...i'll still come out ahead cause my present v8 runs like **** and leaks all over hell....still. My rear main is starting to leak as well as the intake manifold. near the distibutor....again. I'm also starting to hear a knock at about 900rpm internally near the starter. If i get this engine, i'll be able to put in a good engine in that has 12k on the rebuild. All i'll have to rebuild is my tranny and fix my front axle and i'll be good to go hopefully.

[Ben97XJ]

But you could probably find one with TBI already set up. Then you would have all of the parts. It wouldn't cost much more if you find one in a yard to pick up the whole setup.

[uglyota]

where's jason been?
he always talks about a yard with lots of TBI 350s

[TxCruzr]

Everyone with their EFI bandwagon :rolleyes: :flipoff2:
Fuel injection is nice but if he is doing this himself how much easyer is it going to be going with a carb. If he gets a TBI out of a yard he better pray that the wiring harness has not been molested...what are the chances of that in a junkyard. Do a search for the problems on this board that people have had with their injected motors. I'm running a q-jet straight out of the box with non of those special mods and I have never once sat at the bottom of a climb wishing I had FI. I've been on my side and I've sat it on the rear bumper with it running. Hell, I've had people in this club think I had FI. I do get ****ty gas mileage with no help from the carb but if I wanted good mileage I would have bought a ricer. I have no problem with playing with my engine and screwing with it but there is no way in hell I would touch blingity injected motor, too many sensors and wires to mess up.
my $.08 :gigem:

Joseph

[BigRedFord04]

y'all is some stubborn b!tches

[eight]

The only ones that have had problems are the projuections. I don't think anyone can uckup wireing a TBI 350. Most stereos have more wires. And I think Cody had one for sell with an aftermarket harness for $500, maybe he still gots it.

[uglyota]

...if I wanted good mileage I would have bought a ricer.
you did
:flipoff2:

[TxCruzr]

you did
:flipoff2:

sounds like one too :flipoff2:

[Fredo]

Everyone with their EFI bandwagon :rolleyes: :flipoff2:
Fuel injection is nice but if he is doing this himself how much easyer is it going to be going with a carb. If he gets a TBI out of a yard he better pray that the wiring harness has not been molested...what are the chances of that in a junkyard. Do a search for the problems on this board that people have had with their injected motors. I'm running a q-jet straight out of the box with non of those special mods and I have never once sat at the bottom of a climb wishing I had FI. I've been on my side and I've sat it on the rear bumper with it running. Hell, I've had people in this club think I had FI. I do get ****ty gas mileage with no help from the carb but if I wanted good mileage I would have bought a ricer. I have no problem with playing with my engine and screwing with it but there is no way in hell I would touch blingity injected motor, too many sensors and wires to mess up.
my $.08 :gigem:

Joseph

You are seriously in denial if you think your carb is worth a ****. Also, don't knock what you don't understand. Fuel Injection is extremely reliable when done correctly, and it's not that hard to do.

[TxCruzr]

Denial? No, I'd just rather save a few bucks on that and spend it somewhere else. Your right though. My carb is not worth a ****...thanks for informing me since I have no idea. You know more about my engine then I do. I'm a fawking dumbass. Thank you :flipoff2:
I'm not knocking FI. Your knocking carbs. Fuel injection is great but not necessary. Would I like it...yes. Do I need it...no. Did you know there are comp rigs running carbs. Carbs work if done right too...just a fraction of the price. If he is rebuilding his entire drivetrain then he might want to save some money on the motor and use it for that. Maybe I'm out of touch. If you guys have the extra cash then go for it. I'm just someone that tries/has to save the extra money were I can. I'd rather gear lower then inject mine since my gearing is the limiting factor where I go, not the motor.
You guys get to uptight...have a beer before you post :beer: :gigem:

[Fredo]

I don't know why you think Fuel Injection is so expensive. I think I have right at $250 in my entire setup on my truck. You find me a performance carb for less than $250 and put it on the same angles as a TBI motor and see which one you like better. I have wheeled with q-jets and I've rebuilt them in the campground bathroom at 11pm just to make an attempt at getting it to run worth a damn at alltitude. They blow monkey weenie. I will never own a vehicle with a carb again. As far as comp buggies running carbs, yeah, I've seen that too. They are usually the rigs with the biggest and baddest batteries and starters too, and they are usually at the bottom of the rankings.

By the way, I'd drink beer at work, but I'm pretty sure they wouldn't like it. :D

[TxCruzr]

I see where your coming from. You can install and work on it yourself, which is great. If I could do that I'd have no problems with injection. I'm just saying for someone like me that doesn't know much about FI, atleast to install it, would have to pay someone else to do it. Thats where the price difference is. So I change my statement. If you can do it yourself or with the help of someone for cost of parts then go for it. I'm still sticking with my old school setup till I win the lotto and get a GM Performance ZZ 383 :D

[Violentv8toy]

Im not going fuel injection right now...i know its badass and all, i had it at one time too.....but lemme get the fawker in a wheelable state first.

I've gotta go to San Marcus this weekend, so I guess i'll go drive it and take a look see at it....if it runs good, i'm gonna buy it. He said it puffs blue for 2-3 seconds on a cold startup but thats it. I'll look into getting that fixed too.

Since i'll have a ready engine...does anyone have a cherry picker i could possibly use for a weekend as well as a flat slab of cement? I'm sure i won't need more than 2 days.

[BigRedFord04]

I see where your coming from. You can install and work on it yourself, which is great. If I could do that I'd have no problems with injection. I'm just saying for someone like me that doesn't know much about FI, atleast to install it, would have to pay someone else to do it. Thats where the price difference is. So I change my statement. If you can do it yourself or with the help of someone for cost of parts then go for it. I'm still sticking with my old school setup till I win the lotto and get a GM Performance ZZ 383 :D
did you pay people to build your entire rig? why not learn something new? cuz i'm pretty sure thats how most of us got our rigs to the state they are in today...learning, trying, and doing. i'm sure someone would be more than willing to help you set it up...and theres this newfangled thing out there called the internet....GREAT resource for info from people who have already done it.

i still think you're all just stubborn.

mario...IF...and thats a huge IF, you can find a TBI 350 for the right price would you run it? why not build it right the 1st time and save yourself having to do it all over again later? you're replacing the engine anyway right? i just think it'd be better for you in the long run, and you'll be happier w/ it in the end...i only say that b.c. i know how much trouble your carbed 350 gave you in Katemcy (when i only had 2 wheel drive). dunno how much of that was caused by the carb, but TBI is just so easy to work with if you're willing to learn it, and really reliable...i hear Jimmy's Scout was running upsidedown w/ TBI.

[Violentv8toy]

yeah....if i could find a TBI 350 for 400-500 with less than 100k and in good shape, i'd buy it. I'm just trying to get out of the hole i put myself in prior to this. I just need it so it will 4wheel. I'm not gonna work on the toy forever...next project i won't butcher so bad and it will have FI and all that.

and at katemcy...it ran really great after changing the intake manifold gasket and plugs...then i shut it off and started it back up and it developed a miss and it just grew and grew. I don't know what the deal is. It doesn't eat plugs anymore and doesn't run rich, but it doesn't feel like a v8 should and it leaks and leaks and leaks. I just got fawked on a bad engine deal in the past and I'll be much happier when i rebuild a different engine or buy one that runs good now that I know what the hell im looking for in a v8. Point is, I don't need FI to 4wheel. its nice, i know...but i can live without it.

[TxCruzr]

did you pay people to build your entire rig? why not learn something new? cuz i'm pretty sure thats how most of us got our rigs to the state they are in today...learning, trying, and doing. i'm sure someone would be more than willing to help you set it up...and theres this newfangled thing out there called the internet....GREAT resource for info from people who have already done it.

i still think you're all just stubborn.


No, Just the stuff that I couldnt do. Hard to do a springover with nothing more than jb weld. If I had the tools I would do it. This weekend I'm pulling out my busted birf and replacing it (unless someone would like to do it for $$$...kidding). When someone was working on it for me I was up there as much as I could being a pain trying to see whats going on. Ask Matt at WTOR and I promise you that he'll tell you I was the most annoying but patient guy hes worked with. I already said fuel injection is the way to go if you can do it, hows that stubborn. I didn't go that route because I don't know jack about it. I would have and still would like to learn, but would have had to still pay someone to do it and learn from them. I'm not about to spend a few K and try to put it together from what I've read on the net. I don't have the money to fix what I screw up.
My rig was built the like most of the rest. I read up and watched what worked and tried to fit it to mine.
Ending hijack

[Violentv8toy]

hijack if u want....i bought it.

[Violentv8toy]

Since i'll have a ready engine...does anyone have a cherry picker i could possibly use for a weekend as well as a flat slab of cement? I'm sure i won't need more than 2 days.


Engine is gonna be in my possession late saturday night.

Does anyone have a spot i can borrow for saturday and sunday? I'll pull the engine saturday and put the new one in on sunday. I'll pay $$.

EDIT: of next week....week of the 13th.