My Dana 60 Thread [Archive]

AgDieseler

01-10-2005, 10:07 PM

Tonight, I just pressed out the wheel studs, drove out the old races and hub spacer, put them throught the parts washer, and called it good. Most of this week with be spent cleaning and prepping the axle for a weekend install (if the rest of the parts make it in time). :crossingfingers:

http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/rebuildparts1.jpg
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/pressingstuds1.jpg
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/hubclean.jpg

BigRedFord04

01-10-2005, 10:18 PM

are you actually going to try and replace the cones? when i did it, it took 3 of us leaning on an 8' breaker bar with the axle chained to a 20' steel table, and the table actually moved before they broke loose. arent they set to like 600ft/lbs?

AgDieseler

01-10-2005, 10:21 PM

The manual says 500-600 ft-lbs, so no...I will not replace them. I'm going to try and get a shop to perform that service for me. I'll call BVD and Vilas tomorrow.

bburris

01-10-2005, 10:40 PM

I don't know if you're dead set on replacing them, but when we rebuilt Blake's axle we couldn't really figure out a eay of getting them off since no shop around here wanted to do it. Blake ended up just polishing them up really well with an emory cloth, and then reassembling everything with the new parts and just kept the new kingpins in a ziploc in his spare parts drawer.

30+ years of rust and dirt isn't very easy to overcome...

AgDieseler

01-10-2005, 10:44 PM

I may just do that instead since I'm short on time. At a glance, they don't appear to be in bad shape at all.

BigRedFord04

01-10-2005, 10:53 PM

the ones i replaced werent bad, but the guy was paying to have it done so we did it. Vilas doesnt have the allen necessary to remove 'em...we got it from the guy who's axle it was. isnt the only thing that wears on those the nylon bushing, and possibly any dirt that gets in w/ the grease?

Sharpe

01-11-2005, 12:10 AM

In billavista's d60 rebuild article on pirate he recomends only replacing the cones if they are pitted b/c its suck a PITA.

AgDieseler

01-11-2005, 10:02 PM

Progress was slight, but good. The pinion was severely damaged, and couldn't be removed by conventional means. The plasma cutter did well. I then put the diff through the parts washer.

One of my bearing hubs has the internal splines flattened. I spent some time fixing that. Using one of Tate's hubs as a pattern, I filed the splines by hand.

Indeed one kingpin is in great condition and would take well to a cleaning and polish, but the other is sad a ****ty. I'm dropping off the axle at BVD for kingpins tomorrow morning - we'll see how that goes.

http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/cleaningdiff1.jpg
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/damagedhub.jpg
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/oldpinion.jpg
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/oldkingpin1.jpg

bburris

01-11-2005, 11:06 PM

That sucks man... I hope they don't bend you over too harshly.

redcagepatrol

01-12-2005, 08:46 AM

you can get the cones out with a hex socket and a strong 3/4 or 1" impact. I have the socket - you can buy it for like $30 at McMastercar. I have done it before - not a big deal with the right tools.

Graystroke

01-12-2005, 03:51 PM

What scott said. You may try soaking the thing w/ PB Blaster or better yet use some heat and then quinch it in water and beat it w a BFH on the end to try and loosen it up, repeat this a couple of times. This will "shock it" and loosen up the rust in the threads that may be making it stick. This works great w/ exhaust manifold bolts and those can be a real PITA on a 30 yr old manifold. Get the socket scott was refering to and use your air tank w/o the regulator or turn it way up to around 200psi and hit it couple of times NASCAR style!

Chadnutz

01-12-2005, 03:55 PM

I'd rather just have him clean up the lab and build me some shelves ect. than to spend his time playing with an axle. :flipoff2:

AgDieseler

01-12-2005, 05:16 PM

This morning, BVD took one look at it and said, "uh...no." So, I dropped the axle off at Hogan's Trucks Unlimited in Bryan this afternoon.

They called to say that they have one side in and torqued, but while doing unthreading the other side they broke their 3/4" impact. It's supposed to be ready tomorrow morning.

BigRedFord04

01-12-2005, 07:08 PM

the one i did at Vilas, heated and quenched it at least 8 times....beat on it w/ a hammer....slammed on it w/ the 1/2" impact for long periods of time....all to no avail. eventually took just brute force and said 8' breaker bar. 600ft/lbs and 20yrs of being there is no bull**** TIGHT!!

AgDieseler

01-12-2005, 08:57 PM

Finished filing down the 55 internal splines to make the locking hub fit (it's tedious work), and went to Napa to pick up the following:

* New 'merican made brake calipers
* New brake pads
* Got the rotors turned
* New steering rag joint
* New 2wd Chevy box

I still have to get the right nut and lockwasher for the new steering box shaft since my old 4wd box doesn't have that to swap over. ORD shipped the crossover steering yesterday, so it should be here Friday. I'm still waiting on spindle studs and nuts to be drop shipped from Dana.

Also, phase 2 of the project no longer exists. I'm just going ahead and building the axle as a whole. That negates an installation this weekend, but it will be nice to have this axle done and turning.

AgDieseler

01-14-2005, 10:34 PM

The crossover steering came today...juicy. I picked up the axle with two brand new kingpings installed and torqued to 500 ft-lbs. I cleaned the housing with a wire wheel attachment, and shot a quick coat of paint.

One thing I noticed as I was wire-wheeling: the date on the axle from the junkyard was 11-6-01; this has been an ongoing project for some time. Gotta love a student budget. :rolleyes:

pics tomorrow

AgDieseler

01-15-2005, 07:14 PM

Just a few pics. I picked up the special jam nut that holds the pitman arm onto the shaft - Genuine GM nut - $8. Immediate plans are to get everything painted, fab some dust cups (the 6 bolt thingys), and get everything ready to hang on the alxe - press in races, grind the calipers for 15" wheels, etc.

Longer term is to order the Detroit, get some 4.88s from Jimmyhat, and get them installed. It's all gravy after that.

Here's a couple, but there's more: http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/

Bling!!!
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/ordarm.jpg
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/painted.jpg

Doug Krebs

01-15-2005, 07:23 PM

I'd like to look at those arms...

AgDieseler

01-16-2005, 08:53 PM

My roommate and I spent the afternoon cleaning a lot of parts. Turns out, they had a lot of rust. The housing got a second coat of semi-gloss black, and other parts got their paint. It really hurt to paint the ORD steering arm since the machining was so pretty. I also took some time and pressed in the races.

I hope to finish work early tomorrow, and get more done. I'll have to wait a week for some money to order the last parts - the detroit, outer kit, 1350 pinion, and seals.

Not much to show. It's just nice to have some parts that are starting to look as pretty as they are beefy.
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/paintedordarm.jpg
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/newraces.jpg

AgDieseler

01-17-2005, 07:46 PM

I drove in the last remaining races for the bearing hubs and kingpins. I started fabbing the six bolt dust cup things, but have to wait for the spindle studs and nuts to make sure I make them big enough. I cut some sch 40 to make zerk protectors for the lower kingpin caps. Some more parts got cleaned and painted. Some of the wheel studs were damaged, so if we have the tap and die I can fix them, but I may end up with new stuff anyway.

http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/kingpinrace.jpg
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/dustboot1.jpg
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/zerkprotector.jpg

AgDieseler

01-19-2005, 07:55 PM

4.88s, and all the bearings from Jimmy. Gracias.
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/488gearsandbearings.jpg

AgDieseler

01-25-2005, 11:44 PM

More stuff:
Got the Spicer 35 spline outers
Warn premiums
5-806X cold joints
PSC rock ring
Spicer spindle studs and nuts

The Detroit should arrive soon, and then it's awn!

http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/outerkit.jpg

uglyota

01-26-2005, 08:57 AM

rock ring?
I woulda thought you'd go for the blue torch build-it-yourself cover

AgDieseler

01-26-2005, 10:12 AM

I actually wanted the Crane mega-pimp cast moly cover, but it's just a little too expensive right now. I have a rock ring on the 14FF, and it has worked well. I got this one on a good deal, so why not?

AgDieseler

01-26-2005, 10:58 PM

The Detroit, 1350 yoke, and axle seals arrived today.
http://www.tamor.org/members-rigs/albums/Diesel-Stuff/detroit.jpg

BMFScout

01-27-2005, 03:45 AM

dayumn!

Graystroke

01-27-2005, 05:04 PM

I guess storing this thing under your 'burb is as good as place as any until you get something else. :flipoff2:
p.s. I need to talk to you about 6.5L diesels and shoe horning one into a LR.

AgDieseler

01-27-2005, 07:14 PM

I guess storing this thing under your 'burb is as good as place as any until you get something else. :flipoff2:
p.s. I need to talk to you about 6.5L diesels and shoe horning one into a LR.
Too true. I look at axles like the government looks at spending money: why have one when you can have two at twice the price? Any trail rig I have will be 60'ed as well.

I'll be in Houston this weekend getting gears in the axle. Just pm me your schedule & number.

jerryg79

01-27-2005, 07:29 PM

Too true. I look at axles like the government looks at spending money: why have one when you can have two at twice the price? Any trail rig I have will be 60'ed as well.

I'll be in Houston this weekend getting gears in the axle. Just pm me your schedule & number.

hey ****er you no drink at chicken....YOU SUCK!

AgDieseler

01-27-2005, 07:44 PM

I'll be here Friday...Chicken ****er! :flipoff2:

AgDieseler

02-06-2005, 10:16 PM

The Detroit, gears, and inner seals are in. I also had my front shaft reworked to have a 1350 front yoke. Friday night I pressed in some axle shaft joints.

The pattern is perfectly centered with .050 under the front pinion bearing and the backlash is set tight at .006.

http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/d60pattern.jpg
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/seals.jpg

While at Luis' shop, one of the trucks that stood out was this ridiculously tall Dodge. Those are 46" Iroks on 20" MRT beadlocks. That's Luis fisting one of the holes - kinky.
http://www.tamor.org/members-rigs/albums/Diesel-Stuff/ridiculousdodge.jpg
http://www.tamor.org/members-rigs/albums/Diesel-Stuff/fisting.jpg

BigRedFord04

02-07-2005, 12:42 AM

.060? isnt that way too much?

agjohn02

02-07-2005, 12:50 AM

.006" is more like it. typo possibly?

AgDieseler

02-07-2005, 02:19 AM

Typo indeed. Post edited.

AgDieseler

02-21-2005, 08:29 PM

Done...kinda.

The axle is in, and it turns and steers well. The crossover steering was a great addition, and provides tons more control without as much feedback.

Left to do:
New longer yet brake lines ~40"
Cut, thread, and adjust tie rod for appropoiate toe-in
Adjust drag link to center steering wheel
Wheel it!

The new Spicer spindle and new Timken bearing required some help to fit together. In addition to filing and polishing the ridge the inner wheel bearing has to fit over, we packed the spindle in dry ice before installing the bearing hub to shrink it. Installation was easy after all that.
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/done.jpg
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/dryice.jpg
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/dryicepacking.jpg

Chadnutz

02-21-2005, 10:04 PM

You brave the ditch?

AgDieseler

02-21-2005, 10:08 PM

Brake lines are waaaay too short. Gimme some time.

Sharpe

02-21-2005, 10:15 PM

Why are your brakelines too short?

AgDieseler

02-22-2005, 08:24 AM

I have the Skyjacker extended lines, but they just aren't long enough. The banjo bolt on the caliper orients in such a way that the line has to curve down and then back up to the frame. The old 10 bolt allowed the bolt to point upwards, and so a shorter line worked.

I'm going to run by Bryan Ho-s today and see what they can make me.

Sharpe

02-22-2005, 10:52 AM

Hmmmmm. I also have the skyjacker lines for a 6" lift. I switched mine over from the 10 bolt to D60 with no problems. On mine, the D60 caliper makes it so the hoses point backwards but this doesnt interfere with length at all and actually helps keep the line away from the tire. I dont remember what kind of orientation the 10 bolt calipers had.

agjohn02

02-22-2005, 01:50 PM

i had to do the same and i just went to oreillys and got some to put inline with the skyjackers. austin and i went through just about every brake line they had looking for one to work.

savvyaggie

02-22-2005, 03:17 PM

TxCruzr

02-22-2005, 05:29 PM

ask nicole( the girl at bryan hoes) if she had fun last might with me.... she might get you a deal....

jordan...

or she might charge extra to try to gain her 5 minutes of wasted life back :flipoff2:

agjohn02

02-22-2005, 07:27 PM

whoa, five minutes? way to go dude!

Shaggy

02-22-2005, 10:47 PM

that has got to be a record

savvyaggie

02-22-2005, 11:31 PM

I got mine!!!! That's all that matters to me!!!!!

savvyaggie

02-22-2005, 11:32 PM

no, she is just a friend.... :rolleyes:

AgDieseler

02-24-2005, 01:46 PM

Picked up some new stainless brake lines from Bryan Ho's - 36" for the front and 24" for the rear. New tie rod should be here next week to fix the pigeon toe.

Now I just have to figure out why my driver side Warn keeps locking itself. I installed the bearings right, but the hub body is still a very tight fit. I'll have to take a look at it this weekend.

AgDieseler

02-28-2005, 12:29 AM

Here are the 36" stainless lines I had made. I also got a new 24"er for the rear brakes, too. I used an adel clamp on the shock tube to keep the extra long lines from being grabbed by the lugs on the tire.

http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/newlines.jpg

http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/brakelinein.jpg

The crossover draglink just barely clears the Banks crossover pipe, and has had a tendency to become polished at the bend over the axle's first week of service.

http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/tooshort.jpg

I'll flex out the suspension here in the next few days and see how everything works. I'm looking forward to wheeling again.

Plenty more photos here (http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/).

uglyota

02-28-2005, 09:02 AM

Those don't look stainless...I think you got skrood! :flipoff2:
j/k looks good

Ben97XJ

02-28-2005, 09:13 AM

Where did you get those brakelines made at?

jerryg79

02-28-2005, 09:23 AM

Where did you get those brakelines made at?

read ^

AgDieseler

02-28-2005, 09:23 AM

Bryan Hose and Gasket. They have the black covering which I thought was cooler than the clear covering.

After looking at the prices for 7/8-18 thread taps, ($63 for RH & $150 for LH!) it was going to be way too expensive to modify my stock tie-rod, so I ordered a 1/4" wall one from ORD for $95. It's an okay deal, and in the make-or-buy scheme of things, it was the way to go for me. It should be here by about the middle of this week. That will fix the toe-out problem, although the truck tracks surprisingly well with its messed up alignment.

AgDieseler

03-05-2005, 01:23 PM

I installed the new 1.5" .25 wall DOM tie-rod, and gave the truck a proper alignment with 1/8" toe in. It actually drove fairly well pigeon toe'd.

I took the chance to actually use the new axle, and tried crossing the drainage ditch in front of work. I hit it at all the wrong angles. The ground was way too soft, and my ATs gummed up in short order. I'll try it again when things are dry. Also, I want 37s.
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/flexposing1.jpg
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/d60/flexposing3.jpg

Now to solve the last problem:
My driver side hub is always wanting to engage. I went back over Warn's instructions, and my bearings are setup right as are the lock rings, so no luck there. To make the trip to Dallas this weekend, I removed the machine screw, inner lock ring, and the big spring. Now the dial can turn to its heart's content, and nothing will happen.

Has anybody else ever dealt with this? Any ideas?

Shaggy

03-05-2005, 05:27 PM

take em back and they should warranty them

eight

03-06-2005, 10:24 AM

You put grease in the hub?

AgDieseler

03-08-2005, 11:50 PM

Okay, it turns out that the 35 spline D70 stubs are just a tid bit longer than the 30 spline stockers. The stub is pressing on the dial, trying to keep it stationary as the hub moves, thus resulting in uncommanded engagement.

When I get the chance, I'm going to clearance the end of the stub just a bit to see if that helps. If not, I've got the part number for a pair of dials with set screws like the hubs used on rear wheel applications. We'll see.