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Sharpe
02-07-2005, 02:36 PM
Got me a jeep cause the price was right. 74 CJ-5 Renegade. It came with a factory V8 (I think its a 304 right?), Warn M8274 and more brown recluses than you can shake a stick at. So what kind of axles, tranny and t-case does it have? I got the whole shebang for $500. Here' a bunch of pics. I took some pics of the front axle to help in identification. From what I can see, it has external hubs and open knuckles. I couldnt get any pics of the rear axle because it has 4 flat tires and is very short to begin with. It should have a dana 35 rear and dana 30 front right? Anyway here's the pics.

Sharpe
02-07-2005, 02:36 PM
More pics

Doug Krebs
02-07-2005, 02:45 PM
damn man, thats a good find. Looks like the body is in good shape and it comes with a bad ass winch!

bburris
02-07-2005, 02:49 PM
It has a D30 front, but D35s didn't go under Jeeps until the YJs came out.

Fredo
02-07-2005, 02:52 PM
Front Dana 30, Rear is an early low spline 44, tranny is either a t14 or t15 if it's a 3spd and it's a Dana 20 tcase......why the **** do I know this?!?!

robertf03
02-07-2005, 02:53 PM
It has a D30 front, but D35s didn't go under Jeeps until the YJs came out.

Hey Brett, I'm going to be a dick and correct you over some small detail

1984, xj :flipoff2:

should have a t15, dana 20, 304, 30 front, 44 rear.

robertf03
02-07-2005, 02:55 PM
it'll be 30 spline rear, centered 44's were always 30 spline on CJ's

J Cooper
02-07-2005, 03:02 PM
sweet, nice find, i like the renegade stripe... now just but the axles in your burban under the jeep and youll be good to go.

ill give you $30 for those amc v8 tags... ive been looking for those things for awhile

Graystroke
02-07-2005, 03:27 PM
Coop, look at about the 10th line from the bottom. this guy has some NOS ones for sale.
http://www.amx-perience.com/california_classic_amc.htm

look under: latest unusual arrivals
for: NOS set early Jeep "360 V/8" emblems. Left and right.

J Cooper
02-07-2005, 03:36 PM
sweet ass.. i already have 2 fuel injection emblems off a caddy... thanks grayson

unsnaking thread now: cool jeep getrdun :flipoff2:

Moose
02-07-2005, 03:45 PM
very impressive. does it run? does drivetrain spin smoothly? drivetrain/steering/suspension only show to have surface rust. great find. what location did you find this one? history on the jeep?

stx4wheeler
02-07-2005, 04:00 PM
owww a drum brake front how fun!!!

stinger7401
02-07-2005, 04:01 PM
please if i can give you a word of advice, keep it stock!!! Mine is a 74 and the frames back then don't hold up to anything because they are c-channel. If it was mine, spend about a grand gettin it in perfect order, all stock, the tub looks great, no or little rust and then sell it for 8-10 grand to some collector and buy yourself a better rig for starting out with. I have been down the road your at but mine was in terrible shape so it didnt matter. Yours is sooo close to stock that you could end up making a sweet investment out of it..

Sharpe
02-07-2005, 04:09 PM
It does not run. It barely rolls. It skidded most of the way onto the trailer but I think it got freed up during the loading process. Yah everything only has surface rust and the body's in great shape. I got it from my girlfriend's uncle in Victoria. It used to be his DD when he was in college (here) and was a ranch truck up until about 10 years ago. Been sitting in the garage of their ranch house ever since. I got a good deal A) Because the uncle is a lawyer and didnt need the money B) because they know I am a good home for it and C) they needed the garage space to park their new polaris 6x6 ***.

TexTJ209
02-07-2005, 04:15 PM
please if i can give you a word of advice, keep it stock!!! Mine is a 74 and the frames back then don't hold up to anything because they are c-channel. If it was mine, spend about a grand gettin it in perfect order, all stock, the tub looks great, no or little rust and then sell it for 8-10 grand to some collector and buy yourself a better rig for starting out with. I have been down the road your at but mine was in terrible shape so it didnt matter. Yours is sooo close to stock that you could end up making a sweet investment out of it..


I second this.

BMFScout
02-07-2005, 04:24 PM
I say go beat on it, spend time restoring something pretty like a 59 caddy, or a 69 camaro. Restoring 4x4's is a waste of time imo.

agjohn02
02-07-2005, 05:20 PM
i like the refurbish and sell idea too. if you need any parts for those front brakes i might have what you need. fred, are the parts the same, old scout drum stuff and this?

Fredo
02-07-2005, 05:22 PM
don't know.....never owned a scout with drums in front.

redcagepatrol
02-07-2005, 05:34 PM
please if i can give you a word of advice, keep it stock!!! Mine is a 74 and the frames back then don't hold up to anything because they are c-channel. If it was mine, spend about a grand gettin it in perfect order, all stock, the tub looks great, no or little rust and then sell it for 8-10 grand to some collector and buy yourself a better rig for starting out with. I have been down the road your at but mine was in terrible shape so it didnt matter. Yours is sooo close to stock that you could end up making a sweet investment out of it..
I third this - that is a great money making opertunity, just take the winch off before you sell it. The tub looks really good laong with the rest of the truck. Get it running, clean it up and sell it for $8,000 and make a crap of profit. Don't spend too much fixing it up, just get it running and clean everything up - I wouldn't even spend money on bearings or brake shoes - just sand, soak, fix up everything that you can and make some money.

It will take a TON of money to get that thing trail worthy - just buy a Toyota truck with the profits and start from there...

bburris
02-07-2005, 06:30 PM
Hey Brett, I'm going to be a dick and correct you over some small detail

1984, xj :flipoff2:
whatever, dick :flipoff2:


It will take a TON of money to get that thing trail worthy - just buy a Toyota truck with the profits and start from there...
hey, let's not fag up this thread with your gay Toyota talk, mmkay?

robertf03
02-07-2005, 06:52 PM
I think you guys are being a little overzealous on what you can get for a pre 76 AMC Jeep.

You might be able to pull 4-5k out of it if you find someone who really wants one. They aren't that hard to find.

BMFScout
02-07-2005, 06:57 PM
I say it is a good deal, and a running jeep should net 3 grand. I'm just wondering how good it actually looks in person, for one that isn't the original paint, so who knows what it really looks like under that exterior, right flem? I say do Scott's idea, minus the toyota, plus a scout, those are just begging to be beat on.

stinger7401
02-07-2005, 07:23 PM
I think you guys are being a little overzealous on what you can get for a pre 76 AMC Jeep.

You might be able to pull 4-5k out of it if you find someone who really wants one. They aren't that hard to find.


Lets consult the man who works at the dynasty known suckering jeep buyers.....Fred what would a prime condition 74' model jeep go for?

sasquatch
02-07-2005, 07:24 PM
At least its got a frame. :flipoff2:

Sharpe
02-07-2005, 08:24 PM
Selling it is prety much out of the question. I happen to like it and my woman's family is attached to it so they might get pissed if I sold it. If I dont keep it, I will give it to my mom to drive in Port Aransas. But, till then its all mine. And yes Cook unibodies suck.

stx4wheeler
02-07-2005, 08:33 PM
to me the resto project doesnt sound like that good of a deal with all the crap youd have to do to get decent cash out of it. put a 4 inch on it, with some 33's andplay around with it.

Graystroke
02-07-2005, 08:38 PM
keep it and make it into a ranch truck. fixing it up would be easy. brakes, springs, tires, new seats and your done.

Sharpe
02-07-2005, 08:48 PM
keep it and make it into a ranch truck. fixing it up would be easy. brakes, springs, tires, new seats and your done.
Jackpot. I already have a set of 33's collecting dust. I will need new leaf springs, the ones on it are in impressively bad condition. I was thinking a SOA would be cheap and easy, and easily clear the 33's. I was planning on re-doing all the wearable stuff; brakes, clutch, u-joints, etc. and maybe swapping to disks all around. I read about how to swap the rear cheap and easy but am not sure what to do about the front. I was also considering pol-locking it but I dunno. I would like to keep it street legal and driveable just in case so we'll have to wait and what the cash fairy has in store for me. I was actually thinking about the seats too. I have a set of s10 seats that would be perfect.

eight
02-07-2005, 09:31 PM
SOA maybe not so cheap. You gonna have to do somethin about that short rear drive shaft. Maybe nick can tell you more about that.

agjohn02
02-07-2005, 09:36 PM
from newly acquired experience, if your gonna dd the jeep, dont weld it. i dont like it. in retrospect, ida left it open till i can afford a locker.

TxCruzr
02-07-2005, 09:44 PM
from newly acquired experience, if your gonna dd the jeep, dont weld it. i dont like it. in retrospect, ida left it open till i can afford a locker.

I'm the exact opposite. I've DD mine with a welded rear for over 3 years. I'd never do it any other way. When you get to that step find someone with a locker in the rear and drive it. See if you like it or not. The welded rear acts pretty much like a open rear end unless your doing tight turns, in which the tires chirp, or if your gunning it while turning on a wet road.

eight
02-07-2005, 10:23 PM
I've found that tire pressure makes a big difference. Mine likes 20 in the front and 25 in back. If its just a little off, it's noticable. Once they all were low and it no like to turn, back tires grip too much and fronts flex too much.

BigRedFord04
02-07-2005, 11:28 PM
pull the tub off, box the frame, stretch the wheelbase, springover, dont you have a 60 layin' around? 14-bolts are cheap.

agjohn02
02-07-2005, 11:29 PM
it turns fine, i just dont like the chirping. i had to go to the po-po station today to pay a ticket and when i turned all the five-ohs outside were eyeballing me even though i was creeping around the corners. i just gave em the bird and lit em up and got out of there (ok, not really but that's how it went in my imagination). it just makes it sound like you're getting on it going around corners where traction is good. mostly around town though where turns are tight. sometimes it just slides but mostly it chirps. i like the idea about driving a locker, ill have to do that.

Sharpe
02-07-2005, 11:31 PM
I have a detroits front and rear in my burban so I know how they handle. I'll decide on the diff's when the time comes. I dont want to get too deep into this dollar-wise so the burban D60 is staying in place. I figure I'll stick with stock axles and maybe re-gear later. I'm only gonna run 33's so the 30/44 combo should hold up right?

savvyaggie
02-07-2005, 11:56 PM
I have a detroits front and rear in my burban so I know how they handle. I'll decide on the diff's when the time comes. I dont want to get too deep into this dollar-wise so the burban D60 is staying in place. I figure I'll stick with stock axles and maybe re-gear later. I'm only gonna run 33's so the 30/44 combo should hold up right?


unless you decide to sell it to me :rolleyes:

TxCruzr
02-08-2005, 12:55 AM
i had to go to the po-po station today to pay a ticket and when i turned all the five-ohs outside were eyeballing me even though i was creeping around the corners

I know how that is. I went to quiznos the other day and the donut pushers in the parking lot just looked. One drove over and looked like he was waiting for me to come out. I haven't seen anything saying a spool isen't DOT approved so I would be more than happy to hand him a wrench to check whats in the rear end. :gigem:

eight
02-08-2005, 09:07 AM
Yea those axles will be strong enough for 33s.

Sharpe
02-08-2005, 01:02 PM
Besides, if I was to restore a jeep to newness it would be this one. 1950 M2A1 army communications Jeep. Flathead 4-banger spells nothing but power!!!

BMFScout
02-08-2005, 06:04 PM
the torque steer is what i enjoy about my detroit. :)

chevsu
02-09-2005, 06:28 PM
i've been pulled over for my tires chirping and the cop told me i was doing a burn out in the exxon parking lot. i was driving the toy with a four banger and stock gears with 33s. i didn't know it could do that, but he said i was. then he claimed that it was not DOT approved

Violentv8toy
02-09-2005, 08:54 PM
i've been pulled over for my tires chirping and the cop told me i was doing a burn out in the exxon parking lot. i was driving the toy with a four banger and stock gears with 33s. i didn't know it could do that, but he said i was. then he claimed that it was not DOT approved

its possible. :D

The problem i don't like about my welded rear is that it makes my truck dive. If i take a right turn, it will lean/dive/roll right. Likewise on a left turn. Maybe its just cause of the waggys and the height.

what condition is that drivetrain in?

Sharpe
01-04-2006, 02:56 AM
Ok parts gathering phase has begun. I aquired a D30/AMC20 combo with disks in the front. Should I use the 20 or D44 rear? What locker should I run? I'll probably go with some kind of lunchbox locker because of price. Welding it is out of the question.

CheapJeep
01-04-2006, 03:10 AM
Ok parts gathering phase has begun. I aquired a D30/AMC20 combo with disks in the front. Should I use the 20 or D44 rear? What locker should I run? I'll probably go with some kind of lunchbox locker because of price. Welding it is out of the question.
Sweet, I stole the name of the thread for my screenname. :gigem: Good find on the disks, as for the rear axle you would have to put a bit of money into the 20 to make it decent (1 piece shafts). The 44 is by no means superb either but I think it cost less money to make trailready. Powertrax makes some pretty cheap no slip blah blah blah lockers.

StevenAg03
01-04-2006, 09:19 AM
use the 20...get some one-piece axles and weld it up...

Sharpe
01-04-2006, 12:26 PM
NO POL-LOCKAH! This will be no wheelin rig. Its only function will be a hunting truck in the winter and a beach pimp-mobile the rest of the year. I remember Fred comparing the two axles in Clayton, but dont remember exactly what he said.

uglyota
01-04-2006, 12:28 PM
why do you want a locker if it's gonna be a posermobile?

agjohn02
01-04-2006, 12:55 PM
m20 has a bigger ring and pinion. really the only down side is the two piece axles. also, the wheel bearings are in backwards and make it a beech to take apart and assemble. the 20 has ghey torx fasteners on the diff cover also.

Sharpe
01-04-2006, 01:39 PM
why do you want a locker if it's gonna be a posermobile?
Cause its gonna be used hunting (i.e. MUD) and at the beach. Plus, who the f' builds a jeep with an open diff in the back?

uglyota
01-04-2006, 02:21 PM
then I don't understand why you don't want to weld it.
but it's your jeep

BMFScout
01-04-2006, 02:41 PM
sell it to me for double what you paid for it, than I'll show Flem how to build a 5!

agjohn02
01-04-2006, 05:00 PM
NO POL-LOCKAH! This will be no wheelin rig. Its only function will be a hunting truck in the winter and a beach pimp-mobile the rest of the year. I remember Fred comparing the two axles in Clayton, but dont remember exactly what he said.


you just stated a very strong case for a welded diff. why spend the money on a locker if its the perfect candidate for a lincoln locker?

eight
01-04-2006, 06:35 PM
Then you can buy a locker for the front instead. That way when you find out it wheels much better than a fullsize and start wheeling it you'll be further along with the upcoming modifications allready.

CheapJeep
01-04-2006, 06:40 PM
Then you can buy a locker for the front instead. That way when you find out it wheels much better than a fullsize and start wheeling it you'll be further along with the upcoming modifications allready.
And then he could just swap in the 14ff and 60 :flipoff2:

Sharpe
01-16-2006, 08:08 PM
Biggest reason for no pol-lockah is that it will probably see more street time than sand or dirt. Plus, I just dont fawking want to. What gearing should I go with for 33's and no overdrive? It has a V8 (304 I think). I would think 4.10s would be good but without the o/d would 3.73s be mo-betta? Any idea on what gears the axles have from the factory? I've been researching stuff on pirate and am gonna do the zuki front rotors and nissan 300z caliper disk brakes on the back. Now I need to figure out how to add power brakes.

Sharpe
01-16-2006, 08:45 PM
Oh yah, were tailgates optional for CJs? I say Robbie's has one and his doesnt have as many other options as mine does (V8 and P/s) but mine doesnt have a tailgate. Did someone just booty weld a piece of sheet metal where the gate should be or did it come from the factory that way? It looks factory at a glance but I havent looked close at it and have found some other booty-tastic stuff.

CheapJeep
01-17-2006, 01:04 AM
On my old axle's the gearing was like 3.54 or something, but since your's is a Renegade who it might be different.
As for power brakes couldn't you get a later model CJ power brake booster and master cylinder?
C.J.'s Jeep doesn't have a tailgate either, but Nick's old Jeep does. Our's are all the same year model wonder why they're different?

AggieTJ2007
01-17-2006, 01:08 AM
nick made the one for his btw, and this is confusing, its Roberts cheapJeep thread, but Robby is CheapJeep

stx4wheeler
01-17-2006, 01:11 AM
my buddies cj-5, with the three speed stick, and 304, came with 3.73, no tailgate, but it had the open knuckle 30

Reckless
01-17-2006, 01:15 AM
Sweet, I stole the name of the thread for my screenname.

Creighton, this might answer your question! :flipoff2:

CheapJeep
01-17-2006, 01:22 AM
Creighton, this might answer your question! :flipoff2:
I didn't even realize it at first. I registered and started posting then saw Robert's thread with my user name....oops. My bad.
It's almost as confusing as all the Robert's in the club, Sharp, Cook, Danny, Me, who else?

I guess I'm special if I'm the only one with an original tailgate? :flipoff2:

Sharpe
01-17-2006, 01:25 AM
my buddies cj-5, with the three speed stick, and 304, came with 3.73, no tailgate, but it had the open knuckle 30
That sounds exactly like mine.

robertf03
01-17-2006, 02:02 AM
mine didnt have one from the factory

Sharpe
02-11-2006, 11:38 PM
Well I got to work tearing this ***** down today and good lord there's alot of booty fab'd **** on this thing. I got the front clip taken off and I am going to need to replace the passenger side fender, anyone got one? I will probably need a new windshield frame too. I got the carpet pulled up as well, and I need a new floor...

I would be pissed if the purpos of this project wasnt for me to get some experience with body work. Also, The floor where the second body mounts are under the seats is kinda bowed up, which indicates to me that my little yellow jeep has spent some time in the big blue sky. I'll post pics when I get home tomorow.

CheapJeep
02-12-2006, 12:45 AM
I feel ya on the floor. I had the same deal and had to replace the whole passenger side floor pan.
If you do come across a tub or some parts I'll go in half with you cuz I could use a couple body panels as well.

uglyota
02-13-2006, 12:50 AM
I thought it already looked nice. replace the floorboards and make it run

william_ace
02-13-2006, 12:55 AM
i think his purpose here is to make it a mall crawler, well beach crawler that is. get some body work experience and all that jazz.

Sharpe
02-13-2006, 01:46 AM
i think his purpose here is to make it a mall crawler, well beach crawler that is. get some body work experience and all that jazz.
Exactly. And it has alot more rust than the pictures show. To to mention the underside is dirty as ****. There's 30 years worth of mud and sand under there. Just taking the front fenders off, I had to knock a 50 lb. feedsack full of dirt out of them to get to the bolts, and when I cleaned the tub out, the dirt and leaves that were in it filled up another feed sack. Plus its got alot of booty fab'd **** on there I wouldnt want people thinking I did, so I'm going to have to take care of all that. Take for example, the abortion of a front bumper. Now while I was attemting to take it off when I thought it only bolted on, I was thinking, mane waht a PITA. Then I got all the bolts out and discovered it was welded onto the frame. Peachy. Then, while chaning the blades in my sawzall, I dropped the set screw taht holds the blade in and its gone like a fart in the wind. Bumper- 1, Robert- 0

I think I might add a tailgate, which means I am going to have to find a donor jeep to cut the metal around it off of and the actual gate too. Here are the pics of the floor.

robertf03
02-13-2006, 01:48 AM
classic enterprises sells the tailgate surround

sasquatch
02-13-2006, 01:58 PM
i wonder what they were thinking when they welded that square tube on there

my 64 has that compartment under the passenger seat. i thought they got rid of that when they did away with the gas tank under the drivers seat

Sharpe
02-13-2006, 03:09 PM
Probably cause the glove box is non-existant.

AggieTJ2007
02-13-2006, 06:33 PM
wow that is an abortion of a front bumper

uglyota
02-13-2006, 06:40 PM
how the hell did you change the thread title?

sasquatch
02-13-2006, 06:43 PM
edited the first post?

uglyota
02-13-2006, 06:44 PM
that doesn't work.
at least it used to not work

Sharpe
02-14-2006, 02:39 PM
Well as far as a rear locker goes, I am looking at detroit's ez-locker, powertrax and one other I cant remember right off hand. They are all similarly priced, who has what and how do yall like it? I was browsing ebay lookin at t18 and t19 stuff, and it looks like both of those are 4 speeds, and I think my tranny is only a 3 speed. Is this right or did I just not try hard enough to get it into reverse? I used a RPM calculator and with no overdrive, 3.73s and 33s my engine would be doing 2650 RPM at 70 mph. With 3.55's the motor would be doing 2530, and with 3.08s it would be doing 2195. Which of these is optimum for this motor? I intend to put a mild cam in it and in my experience with later model chevy V8s they are happiest cruising at around 2000 RPM. I deffinately dont want to go higher than 3.08s though.

BMFScout
02-14-2006, 03:01 PM
go 35" and 4.10's. That is what's in my Scout, and it is pretty happy on the highway. A SBC likes to rev up way more than an IHC. Fred used to have 3.73's and 33" tires, that also worked out fine.

eight
02-14-2006, 04:46 PM
4.10 worked good in jeep with 258 and 35s or 36s on the highway.

Most of those jeeps came with 3 speeds.

Sharpe
02-14-2006, 04:55 PM
Well if it is indeed a 3 speed what model is it? On the first page Fred mentioned it was probably either a t18 or t19 but like I said I was lookin on ebay and those both apear to be 4 speeds. So if it did indeed come with 3.73s I guess I'll stick with them as long as the motor can handle those RPMs. I am running 33's for sure because I already have them.

Fredo
02-14-2006, 05:37 PM
Well if it is indeed a 3 speed what model is it? On the first page Fred mentioned it was probably either a t18 or t19 but like I said I was lookin on ebay and those both apear to be 4 speeds. So if it did indeed come with 3.73s I guess I'll stick with them as long as the motor can handle those RPMs. I am running 33's for sure because I already have them.


No, I said this back on the first page:

Front Dana 30, Rear is an early low spline 44, tranny is either a t14 or t15 if it's a 3spd and it's a Dana 20 tcase......why the **** do I know this?!?!

BMFScout
02-14-2006, 05:42 PM
I'm guessing t15

Sharpe
02-14-2006, 06:18 PM
Well shat. Whoops.

TexTJ209
02-14-2006, 06:24 PM
Nice little info page..

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/tech/trans/

Sharpe
02-14-2006, 10:01 PM
So is there a popular cheap and easy tranny with maybe overdrive and a lower first gear that will bolt in?

eight
02-14-2006, 10:07 PM
no

robertf03
02-14-2006, 10:51 PM
not without a bellhousing swap, don't need overdrive if you gear it right

sm420 w/ 4.10s is about equal to a nv4500 w/ 4.88s

uglyota
02-15-2006, 02:28 PM
got the latest whorewheel parts catalog and saw some old cherokee chiefs with your same wheels...apparently part of the "s" trim package or something.
I thought they were aftermarket. That's cool. Are you positive that isn't factory paint?

TexTJ209
02-15-2006, 02:38 PM
Ah ****. I didn't notice the rims. Those look like old school FSJ five slots like Eric said. Cleaned up they fetch a decent price from the FSJ crowd.

Sharpe
02-15-2006, 10:28 PM
Well according to Amanda's uncle (the original owner), the paint and wheels are original. Some of the booty crap on it is painted the same color as the body so I guess whoever did it had a can of touch up paint. I would think if they re-painted it they wouldnt bother to redo the renegade decal, but I may be wrong. What I do know is that I have searched high and low on the net and havent found a single other CJ5 painted that color or that exact renegae stripe available from any jeep parts house (not even Collins bros., any idea bout this Fred?). I figured, if I cant find the renegade decal like that, I can hand paint the stripe part and have the letters made by a sticker company.

robertf03
02-15-2006, 10:52 PM
I have seen jeeps painted that color before. I could have told you that is factory paint and wheels. pre 76 stuff is tough to find, I doubt anyone makes a replacement renegade sticker set.

Look in the sales brochure for that year and you'll see that color, an orange one, and a green one with the renegade package.



Cherokees of that era are 6 lug

Sharpe
02-15-2006, 11:15 PM
Yah I've noticed there aint much love for pre-76s. What major changes did they make?

robertf03
02-15-2006, 11:28 PM
Yah I've noticed there aint much love for pre-76s. What major changes did they make?


lots of stuff

76 up to the early 90's is the same floorpan, steering column, seat brackets, windshields are pretty much the same.

the frames widen at the rear unlike every universal jeep from 75 and down.


but 76 and 77 are still a ***** to find some parts for, vent grill is different, heater parts are nonexistant, fuel filler is different, extra body mounts on the rear crossmember.

probably some other stuff I can't remember too

I've got a pic of a 73 renegade thats very similar to yours, if I can get this scanner working I'll post a pic.

TexTJ209
02-16-2006, 01:23 AM
Cherokees of that era are 6 lug


Didn't notice his were only five...close though.


http://fsjworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/BigMike/87390.jpg

Sharpe
02-18-2006, 10:58 PM
So lets talk about building my motor. I am keeping the 304 no matter what so dont bother saying replace it. I am hoping to be able to add chevy TBI and a mild performance cam, as well as a full rebuild. From what I have seen, these motors have oiling issues. How do you address this? Does anyone make a cam specifically to be used with the TBI? What distributor do you use for this setup? If I'm not mistaken 74 didnt use HEI and the TBI needs it.

eight
02-18-2006, 11:25 PM
There isn't an oiling issue for our purposes. There is no TBI cam. There are many cams available, you just have to know what to look for in the cam for TBI use. From looking at the chevy cams for carb vs tbi, it seems you want short overlap, I was thinking the comp 256xe or 262xe for mine, but I really wouldn't know. AMCs like bigger cams than chevys and fords. You use the ford duraspark. It was stock on later motors, not sure if yours would have it or not.

BMFScout
02-19-2006, 03:10 AM
flem will address this I am sure, however tonight he got ahold of his mom's chili evidenty and has been very gaseous. We went to the londoner tonight, and adding beer to the equation was disastorous. It was 27 deg. according to the rearview mirror and we still had the windows down...

william_ace
02-19-2006, 04:27 AM
so somehow flems gaseous emolision from the colon will allow the tbi on the 304 to run better, especially with the shorter cam? did i catch that right?

robertf03
02-19-2006, 05:48 AM
I think ol' Landon had the edelbrock cam in his 304 and it ran very strong. Seems like the cam of choice for the smaller displacement AMC engine.

As for oiling issues, I've got to sack up and drill/tap my block for the main bearing oilbypass mod, but it will get oil mods done to it. I'll post some pics. maybe ill do it tomorrow/later today

Kopeki's got it down, duraspark is the best ignition these engines ever had. Find one from a wagoneer and weld the mech. advance up and its TBI ready.

eight
02-19-2006, 09:10 AM
Yet mine still doesn't run right. Has irratic idle speed. Think I might need to get rid of the knock sensor.

Sharpe
02-22-2006, 07:05 AM
You ever do the oil mod Flem? What year/size motor did the distributor I need come on? Kopeki says Ford duraspark but Flem says wagoneer? Does Edelbrock only make one size cam for this motor? Thanks

eight
02-22-2006, 11:09 AM
Wagoneer uses ford duraspark. Yes edelbrock only makes one cam, and its really only big enough for a 304.

robertf03
02-22-2006, 11:13 PM
haven't drilled yet, too scared

maybe tomorrow

Sharpe
02-22-2006, 11:14 PM
So what year and size motor do I need to get the distributor from?

robertf03
02-22-2006, 11:25 PM
78 and newer amc v8 of any size

Sharpe
03-02-2006, 01:23 AM
So here's what I have planned so far for the mota.

Magnaflux block
Acid bath block
New bearings
New pistons and rings
Ballance rotating assembly
Edelbrock cam
New lifters
New pushrods
New oil pump
Gaskets
Stud kit
Magnaflux heads
New valves (maybe)
New valve springs
New valve guides
New valve seals
Aftermarket rocker arms
Fancy valve covers
Fancy intake manifold
Chevy TBI
HEI distributor

Does anyone have recomendations as far as parts selection goes (pistons, bearings, rocker arms, lifters and oil pump specifically)?

robertf03
03-02-2006, 01:29 AM
i'm getting my oil pump from bulltear, and intake from indy.

stock pistons, clevite 77 bearings, stock or harland sharp rockers, not sure yet. probably a comp k kit for the lifters

Reckless
03-02-2006, 10:36 AM
i have a set of rhodes lifters in my 258 and i love em, www.rhodeslifters.com

Fredo
03-02-2006, 11:14 AM
how do you love a set of lifters? Do they do their job quietly and keep pressure? If yes, then good...if no, then bad. I personally love the $1.02/pc lifters we got for a SBC one time...those were some sexy *****es...all shiny and smooth. WTF?

Stick with Comp Cams on all of your valvetrain components. They are the best in the business....even though I did get drunk and talk to Harland Sharp's daughter one time. :)

BMFScout
03-02-2006, 11:19 AM
how do you love a set of lifters? Do they do their job quietly and keep pressure? If yes, then good...if no, then bad. I personally love the $1.02/pc lifters we got for a SBC one time...those were some sexy *****es...all shiny and smooth. WTF?

Stick with Comp Cams on all of your valvetrain components. They are the best in the business....even though I did get drunk and talk to Harland Sharp's daughter one time. :)

I say that b!tch was yanking our drunken chains, but who knows...

I was thinking the same thing about "loving my lifters" Man, they sure do ride on that cam good and don't make any noise! :gigem:

eight
03-02-2006, 11:56 AM
Go to bulltear.com and do your engine building research. These things aren't very like your standard small block chevy. And if you're gonna put all the time and work into rebuilding it, find $50 and trade it for an old 360, you'll get alot more power out of it.

You'll want the stock distributor to go with the TBI. And I don't think I'd use the knock sensor if I did it again.

Reckless
03-02-2006, 12:27 PM
What i ment was that they keep good vaccum on a cam and are pretty quiet and i havent had a problem with bleed down.

agjohn02
03-02-2006, 05:59 PM
What i ment was that they keep good vaccum on a cam and are pretty quiet and i havent had a problem with bleed down.


all common problems on the vunerable 258. way to work those out! you should post that on cowtownjeeps.com

Fredo
03-02-2006, 06:28 PM
maybe I should see if they make these magical lifters for IH v8's.....maybe they will solve my oil pressure and lifter bleed down problems. :laughing:

Sharpe
03-04-2006, 01:37 AM
Ok I didnt get Fred's Harland Sharp joke until I was browsing through summit tonight and noticed they are the only company in there that makes roller rockers for a AMC. I am going to make this post the motor listing and update it as I decide on parts and whatnot. Here we go;

Edelbrock cam & lifters- Summit PN edl-2132- $140
Edelbrock intake manifold- Summit PN edl-2131- $186
Clevite 77 main bearings- fastengineparts.com PN ms1041p- $50
Clevite 77 rod bearings- fastengineparts.com PN cb960p- $32
Durabond cam bearings- fastengineparts.com PN n-9- $21
Federal Mogul sealed power pistons- fastengineparts.com PN 1079p- $160
Piston rings- fastengineparts.com PN 568- $39
Comp Camps pushrods- Summit PN cca-7812-16- $30
Stock rocker arms
Oil pump
Fel Pro gaskets- Summit PN fel-ks2002- $89
Bolt kit- Where to get?
Valves- Where to find? Anyone make recessed ones?
Edelbrock valve springs- Summit PN edl-5832- $63
Valve guides- Axed
Valve seals- These come with gasket kit
Valve covers- Where to find?
Cloyes timing set- Summit PN clo-9-3118- $100
Proform HEI distributor- Summit PN pro-67185- $210

Recomendations on specific parts deffinately appreciated.

robertf03
03-04-2006, 01:49 AM
Edelbrock cam & lifters- Summit PN edl-2132- $140
Edelbrock intake manifold- Summit PN edl-2131- $186
Clevite 77 bearings- parts store
Piston rings- parts store, mine are sealed power .030 over
Pushrods- same length as small block gm
Rocker arms- parts store, or harland sharp
Oil pump-bulltear
Bolt kit- arp
Valves- parts store
Valve guides- Where to find? kustom. are you machining your own heads?
Valve seals- parts store
Valve covers- junkyard,milodon,edelbrock,jc whitney,omix.

Fredo
03-04-2006, 02:04 AM
No, I really did get drunk and talk to his daughter at a party.....at least we're pretty sure it was her.

eight
03-04-2006, 08:04 AM
You should probably get yourself a basic rebuild kit to get most of that stuff at a better price.

Sharpe
03-04-2006, 11:17 PM
Updated. I think I'm going to stick with stock rockers because to use rollers and guideplates you have to have like .250" machined off the head and get an expensive ass ARP stud kit. Its probably gonna be more than I want to spend so I'll stick with the stockers. Should I replace them with new ones? Comp cams makes hardened pushrods so I think I'll get them incase I decide to upgrade the heads later. What is the bore of the 304? I'm lookin into Fel Pro and Speed Pro for them but dont know what size. Kopeki, I havent found any decent rebuild kits, just a few on ebay and I dont know what brand components they have.

Will the stock valve spring retainers and clips work with the edelbrock springs or will I need new ones too?

Sharpe
03-05-2006, 12:01 AM
Which of these timing sets is better? The one from Summit is advertised as a roller set and is $100 and the one from fastengineparts is advertised as HD and is $73.

http://www.fastengineparts.com/products_view.php?id=1637

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=clo-9-3118&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp

eight
03-05-2006, 09:01 AM
To upgrade the heads, get a 360. Supposedly if you bore the 304 enough you can use 360 heads. Don't know how much is needed. But then there isn't really a point in it if you're gonna use the edelbrock cam. But then there isn't much point in building a 304 when you could have a 360.

That engine won't spin fast enough with the edelbrock cam to need guide plates.

The stock rockers are likely OK. Take a look at them and decide for yourself. You can use rockers made for a sbc if you need new ones. Stock ratio is 1.6.

Most parts stores sell rebuild kits, go ask.

HEI is not for TBI. Use the duraspark. If you want you can upgrade it to a bigger cap and use ford TFI ignition, better than HEI anyway.

Sharpe
04-10-2006, 11:50 PM
What size are the spindle nuts on a D30? I started taking it apart but didnt have a socket big enough, and the "parts professionals" at the Kingsville vatozone arent any help...

robertf03
04-10-2006, 11:59 PM
tape measure? calipers?

same size as a dana 44, and I've borrowed scotts "toyota socket" before and it worked.

I've seen a hammer and fork used too.

TMatheaus
04-11-2006, 12:06 AM
never screwed with a 30, but on the 44 they have the 4 slots on the nuts, do these have that

Sharpe
04-11-2006, 12:22 AM
No they're hex nuts. If they had slots I would have done the screwdriver technique and just bought a socket later.

agjohn02
04-11-2006, 12:43 AM
do the screw driver deal anyways. ive never found a socket that will fit. the part stores have a socket that kindas fits until you need to tighten or loosen it, then it slips off.

Ben97XJ
04-11-2006, 09:19 AM
36MM for the ones with unit bearings anyway.

Shaggy
04-11-2006, 02:14 PM
36mm was the size on lynda's jeep

uglyota
04-11-2006, 02:20 PM
I've got a set of needle-nose pliers that works pretty good, but the pronged-style works on just about everything
http://www.discountjeepparts.com/catalog/images/products/mile/mm-spindle.jpg

Shaggy
04-11-2006, 02:23 PM
I have three of those pictured there... both corner ones in the back and the second one to the right in the front

Sharpe
04-16-2006, 07:57 PM
I ended up going the screwdriver route. Aparently the nuts are fairly soft so I just hammered a little nick into them and used the screwdriver to get em off. I got the D30 entirely torn down, all the pieces are so little and cute. Does any company make some kind of seal to keep dirt and water out of the tubes? The inner shafts were fairly rusty and there was a bunch of dirt inside the tubes. I've seen the little o-ring external seals offered for TJ's but none for CJ's.

JeepPhisherman
04-16-2006, 08:55 PM
http://www.jeepin.com/features/axleseals/index.asp

That was like 5ish years ago, don't know if the company still exists or makes those anymore. I think there's a link at the bottom of the page with some contact info.

Sharpe
05-22-2006, 10:30 PM
Well I been workin on the yeep while I've been home and have made some good progress. I got the spring over most of the way done. The front axle came already setup for it and I just did the rear today. I pointed the pinion straight at the t-case, cause I plan to run a CV driveshaft. Now all I need to do in that regard is to buy and weld on some new shock tabs. According to the tags on the diff's, the rear axle I'm using has 3.73 gears and the front axle has 3.54's (or somewhere around there). No biggie, I'll just snag the gears out of the old front axle. One interesting note is the front leaf springs. The ones that came on my jeep were trashed, the front axle was sitting on the bumpstops. I bought Robbie's stock springs from him and noticed that his have 7 leaves and mine only had 5. My jeep came with a v8 and his the straight 6, whats with that? The new ones seem a little stiff, but the front clip isnt on so I'm sure thats why.

Now that I got most of the suspension done (I wanted to make sure shackle angles were ok so I left the jeep mostly intact while I did the suspension mods), I can move on to the rest of the disassembly. I started unbolting the body from the frame and holy hell is the body in sorry shape. I'm gonna have to replace about 95% of the floor, both rockers, the entire to-be tailgate area, and one rear corner. Where's the best place to get replacement body panels? I'm going to try to take the body off the frame next. This should be interesting, as I will be working by myself and my engine hoist is currently on loan to a friend. I forgot my camera cord in CS so pics will have to wait till I get back.

sasquatch
05-22-2006, 10:39 PM
maybe be cheaper to find a tub thats in better shape?

Sharpe
05-22-2006, 10:42 PM
Part of the goal of this project is for me to get some practice with body work for future, more valuable, projects.

sasquatch
05-22-2006, 10:43 PM
ah ha, i see

agjohn02
05-22-2006, 11:07 PM
jeeps seem to be pretty easy to patch up. check out kopecki's jeep. it was a rust bucket but it looks good now.

Sharpe
05-22-2006, 11:13 PM
Yah that was my thinking. Mostly flat and straight body panels would make a good introduction into body work.

DRAGOONRANCH
05-23-2006, 04:03 AM
Part of the goal of this project is for me to get some practice with body work for future, more valuable, projects.

You must be more specific than "more valuable" than the jeep, this is way to broad of a statement. Hell, fixing up the 1985 craftsman lawn mower would be a "more valuable" project. ( :flipoff2: to all the heepers out there)

eight
05-23-2006, 11:03 AM
I've seen different number of leaves in stock cj springs. I think mine had 6 front and rear. A cj5 with a 304 my brother had was 5 front and 11 rear, may not have been stock. Jeeps are pretty easy to work on because most panels are flat. The corner will probably have to be bought, but the rest should be able to be made from sheetmetal. But then jeep body parts are cheap so you may be better off buying. When I did mine nobody sold scrambler quarter panels. You can get a whole new tub for a 5 for under 2 grand I think.

Sharpe
05-23-2006, 11:29 AM
Ed when I say "more valuable" I am refering to the fly rides in my sig. I was planning on just buying body panels but I figure I will have to do some sheet metal fabrication because alot of the bracing under the floors is rotted out and I've never seen that kind of body replacement panels for sale anywhere.

eight
05-24-2006, 10:42 PM
I just cut that bracing out. It allows the body to flex with the frame better.

Sharpe
05-26-2006, 01:15 AM
Well I got the body off the frame today using a floorjack and two highlifts. It was quite an experience, and I only had one accident. I named him Robbie...haha

Since the yeep was sitting on jackstands, I started looking around for **** to rest the body on high enough so I could get the frame out from under it. My first though was sawhorses, then I discovered I dont have any. Then, as I was poking around I found 2 55 gallon drums. These will work for the back, but I still need something for the front. Well, I picked it up by hand just to see how heavy it was and it wasnt that bad, so I decided to use some old skool metal milk crates I have that I usually use to sit on while working on stuff. I had 3 so I stacked 2 and a 4x4 on one side and one with a jackstand on top of it on the other side. Perfect.

Then I used the high lifts to lift the ass end up high enough to slide the barrels under the corners of the body. After they were secured I went around to the front and raised the front with the floorjack till I could get my milkcrates under it. Then I lowered the front a little and went and started lowering the back. Both of the highlifts I am using are as old as creation itself and the pins stuck open on one of them causing the back end of the frame to crash down about 2 feet onto the dolly I had put under there for it. (Luckily the 1/4" think ugly booty fab'd gas tank skid plate did its job and protected the tank.) This caused the non-malfunctioning highlift to shoot out to the side and knock one of the barrels out from under the body. Aparently, even with all the rust the body is still stiff enough for this to not make it flex at all. Crisis averted.

So I dragged the frame out from under the body without further incident and then realized I was dreadfully short on space. So I rearanged a bunch of **** and now I have plenty of room to work.

I started taking the rear axle apart, and it is indeed 30-something spline, not 16. The shafts are impressively large, almost as big as a 14 bolt, even though I was actually able to deadlift the complete axle onto the jackstands, which I cant even think about with the 14 bolt. I got stuck on getting the carrier out though, is there some trick to it? I've heard of a gizmo called a case spreader but I didnt think I would need one. I'll get pics of the progress up when I get back to CS.

AggieTJ2007
05-26-2006, 09:05 AM
put a wrench on one of the ring gear bolts, so the carrier can't turn, and then turn the pinion and it will push the carrier out of the housing

agjohn02
05-26-2006, 11:49 AM
dead blow hammer or 3-6 ft pry bar. i have used both effectively but id like to try creightons method. you gotta put a wrench on the pinion yoke to do it?

stx4wheeler
05-26-2006, 02:58 PM
rachtet straps, one attaches to your wall or secured shop table, the other throught the carrier takes some work but thats how we free'd cj's front.

sasquatch
05-26-2006, 04:14 PM
and almost ripped the garage down

Seth
05-26-2006, 06:23 PM
ahh! thats dangerous! you cant use highlifts to lift things up o ratchet straps! you probably are dead already you just dont know it!!

agjohn02
05-26-2006, 06:25 PM
ahh! thats dangerous! you cant use highlifts to lift things up o ratchet straps! you probably are dead already you just dont know it!!


ill be happy when you get a hi-lift to the skull, no really...

Seth
05-26-2006, 06:30 PM
ouch - that was assish on my part i admit.....if it makes any difference to anyone, I do my best to avoid dangerous situations and try to be mindful of safety in all the crap do. John - you don't even know me, I am a pretty funny guy at times, and a hifift to the head might be enough to knock me off kilter, and then you would never get to drink beer with funny seth, only "timmay" seth

edit: if you really want a hilift to my head, that is pretty harsh considering the crime. I endanger myself only and you want me to get hurt...I can only imagine if I did something to you. But seriously, we international guys have to stick together, so no boobytrapping my hilift when I am asleep.

JB
05-26-2006, 06:47 PM
ill be happy when you get a hi-lift to the skull, no really...

relax chief

CheapJeep
05-26-2006, 07:28 PM
There must be something in the air. Alot of us, including me have been too uptight lately. I'm pretty sure everyone on the board has performed less than intelligent acts in their time.

Back to the buildup, it sounds like you're getting alot done. Sounds like it's going to be a pretty extensive restoration/buildup with all the bodywork and stuff. We need pics damnit! :gigem:

sasquatch
05-26-2006, 07:46 PM
must be that time of the month... :flipoff2:

agjohn02
05-26-2006, 09:56 PM
ouch - that was assish on my part i admit.....if it makes any difference to anyone, I do my best to avoid dangerous situations and try to be mindful of safety in all the crap do. John - you don't even know me, I am a pretty funny guy at times, and a hifift to the head might be enough to knock me off kilter, and then you would never get to drink beer with funny seth, only "timmay" seth

edit: if you really want a hilift to my head, that is pretty harsh considering the crime. I endanger myself only and you want me to get hurt...I can only imagine if I did something to you. But seriously, we international guys have to stick together, so no boobytrapping my hilift when I am asleep.


oops, i was rushed

it was supposed to read, "no really... :flipoff2: "

Sharpe
05-28-2006, 12:31 AM
Drained the tranny and t-case today. Both were half full of water. Super...

Sharpe
05-31-2006, 12:13 AM
Here's all dem pics I done promised.

Sharpe
05-31-2006, 12:16 AM
Mo.

agjohn02
05-31-2006, 12:42 AM
needs more toob.

DRAGOONRANCH
05-31-2006, 01:56 AM
Wow, that thing looks spamtastic.

uglyota
05-31-2006, 11:06 AM
an aluminum tub and a tube frame might be a good starting point for this project...

J Cooper
05-31-2006, 11:40 AM
looks like you found that thing down south :flipoff2:

AggieTJ2007
05-31-2006, 12:11 PM
I wonder how much better or worse it would be if you got all of the sand off of the body/ frame

Sharpe
05-31-2006, 04:15 PM
All the sand is off the body and frame. The frame is actually in imaculate condition, I was really suprised about how good a shape its in considering the body's rustyness. I knocked 95% of the dirt and sand out from under it and filled up 3 1/2 50 lb. feedsacks.

Shaggy
06-01-2006, 02:59 PM
i used a come-along to get my carrier out

Sharpe
10-20-2006, 09:24 AM
Mk well I havent made any progress on this thing since the begining of summer but I'd like to do some work on it during christmas break. Even though its a long way off I was thinking about my TBI conversion on the motor and came across this vendor on pirate.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=290526

His prices are deffinately reasonable and not having to deal with the factory TBI harness would be nice.

Sharpe
11-15-2010, 04:54 PM
Pulled the engine off the frame of this thing this weekend.

/blog

TexTJ209
11-15-2010, 04:57 PM
I see you're using my school of thought on building Jeeps.

"Meh, I'll get around to it."

Sharpe
11-16-2010, 06:18 PM
Flem, what Bulltear oil pump were you refering to specifically? The only ones I am able to find are this basic kit;

http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_35&products_id=109

and this espensive kit;

http://www.bulltear.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_35&products_id=136

Sharpe
11-19-2012, 10:55 PM
Since I finally live a reasonable distance from my shop I started working on this thing again. I?m going ground up, which means axles and suspension come first. I am running stock springs with a spring-over and intend to run 33x10.50 BFGs on the original alloy wheels. My original springs were hosed so I have Robbie?s originals which are in better shape but I?m still not sure I want to use them. I might buy brand new ones for each corner at this point. Rear axle will have a lunchbox locker. I might put one in the front too. I have an EZ-locker sitting on a shelf but I don?t remember which axle it?s for. I will be using the original upper shock mounts front and rear and will weld simple tabs onto the tubes for lower mounts. Here?s the current state of affairs;
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/IMG_0149.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/IMG_0158.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/IMG_0159.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/IMG_0160.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/IMG_0161.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/IMG_0162.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/IMG_0168.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/IMG_0170.jpg
The frame has some cracks on both ends of the front crossmember. There are three readily apparent around the powersteering box seen here
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/IMG_0155.jpg
And a couple more on the opposite frame rail seen here
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/IMG_0153.jpg
These will be ground out and welded. Are there any frame braces for this vintage besides the type that clamps to the lower part of the p/s box and bolts to the opposite frame rail?

Sharpe
11-19-2012, 10:56 PM
My rearmost crossmember was FUBAR so off it came. I am on the fence about buying a replacement or just fabricating one from scratch. There was a triangular brace from the frame to the crossmember on the driver’s side but not the passenger side. Should there be one on both sides?
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/IMG_0156.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/IMG_0157.jpg

TdmayfieldIV
11-20-2012, 03:59 AM
Sweet mag slots brah

colman
11-20-2012, 04:19 AM
upgraded box mount

redcagepatrol
11-20-2012, 08:44 AM
fabricate rear crossmember / bumper all in one like I did. Just weld it on and never look back.

redcagepatrol
11-20-2012, 08:51 AM
somthing like this

robertf03
11-20-2012, 09:03 AM
j.c. whitney has a good selection of stock replacement leaf springs.

was the triangle bracket bolt or weld on? 76 and newer (which have a very different frame) have bolt on gussets between the frame and rear crossmember.

I'd buy the replacement crossmember rather than stick boxed tube on the back That CJ5 has some potential to be nice / factoryish even with the spring over.

85cj7
11-20-2012, 09:07 AM
I'm sure you can make this. . . . http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=RBB1008

Seth
11-20-2012, 11:21 AM
Slot mags tommy. and they are sweet, not bro.

Looks like a cool project Sharpe.

bburris
11-20-2012, 12:12 PM
Eff JC Whitney. Turns out you know someone that controls pricing on things like OEM replacement springs and crossmembers. If you're going to be in DFW any time soon let me know and I'll set whatever you need aside. Or you can drop by and do some picking.

Sharpe
11-20-2012, 12:37 PM
The brace was bolted on and looks factory. I'll probably fabricate the crossmember and add a couple of receiver tubes at the ends for a bumper feeder.

Sharpe
11-21-2014, 10:19 PM
So after almost 10 years I've started putting it back together! I decided to fabricate my floor pans and a few other misc body panels from sheet metal because they're flatish. I'm in the middle of the driver's side floor and it's a little more work than anticipated. I had to bend a flange on one edge to spot weld to the rocker and roll a bit of a lip into the front to match the remaining factory floor. The fit isn't ideal but for my first try, it'll do.

Who needs a rotisserie??
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/4F79E3B5-89C1-44FD-8593-B9E27591FD63_zpso2wnctbr.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rsharpe08/media/Jeep/4F79E3B5-89C1-44FD-8593-B9E27591FD63_zpso2wnctbr.jpg.html)

Drivers floor
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/26806B4B-0E57-4116-825A-B4BBC12F3C3F_zpscam2hzj9.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rsharpe08/media/Jeep/26806B4B-0E57-4116-825A-B4BBC12F3C3F_zpscam2hzj9.jpg.html)

What I have to look forward to on the passenger side
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/E1A20B09-8AE9-4B1B-8A4A-799A5C4FCEF0_zpspnneanrz.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rsharpe08/media/Jeep/E1A20B09-8AE9-4B1B-8A4A-799A5C4FCEF0_zpspnneanrz.jpg.html)

Sharpe
01-06-2015, 08:58 PM
Updates:

Pretty much done with the passenger floor pan sans the bracing. The area where I had to fill in extra sheet metal from cutting the original panel too short warped a bit during welding due to me going too fast burning it in. I'm going to try to shrink it once I get my torch regulator fixed. So I moved on to the driver's rear corner for now. It isn't too rusty (with the exception of the outer body mount) but is super wrinkled beyond repair. Since this still has the general shape of the tub corner's wide radius bend I cut the replacement panel first and then used the existing body as a die for the bend radius. I wish the torch was working so I could stress-relieve the bend in the new panel but this will have to do for now. I just used my forearms to push down on the full length of the overhanging material, and it worked perfectly. My current hang up is the tailgate situation. My tub doesn't have one and I want to add it. I'd ideally like to find a donor vehicle to steal all this **** from but haven't come up with anything yet and it's crunch time. I'm leaning toward booty-fabbing the tub portion of the TG frame and just fabricating a tailgate from scratch since I'm not all that concerned with originality. I can't find any close up pics of the TG frame online so I'm going to have to look at my '50 M38A1 Willy's next time I head south and just wing it from there.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/1FF9E2BE-8CFA-4579-8FC5-83455C60EA75_zps9jacbrvj.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rsharpe08/media/Jeep/1FF9E2BE-8CFA-4579-8FC5-83455C60EA75_zps9jacbrvj.jpg.html)

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/5148A772-E700-4485-9C23-D73F6659E51A_zps3r9ikjuc.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rsharpe08/media/Jeep/5148A772-E700-4485-9C23-D73F6659E51A_zps3r9ikjuc.jpg.html)

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/C2F96ED3-2936-4D68-B575-37ACD1DEC57B_zpsau3s4kws.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rsharpe08/media/Jeep/C2F96ED3-2936-4D68-B575-37ACD1DEC57B_zpsau3s4kws.jpg.html)

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/E5DA2103-C92F-4DE3-9473-459FA2B6E815_zpstnrwrit2.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rsharpe08/media/Jeep/E5DA2103-C92F-4DE3-9473-459FA2B6E815_zpstnrwrit2.jpg.html)

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/A1E27726-249F-4F12-ACC4-638F8212EEEC_zpsihtryj1w.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rsharpe08/media/Jeep/A1E27726-249F-4F12-ACC4-638F8212EEEC_zpsihtryj1w.jpg.html)

Sharpe
01-06-2015, 08:59 PM
Also need to figure out the most efficient way to remove burnt rubber from the rear wheel wells. This and the bent body mounts lead me to believe the PO liked to party. I don't really want to burn it off due to the smell and mess and the wire wheel is taking too damn long. Also need to order .023 wire rollers for my Miller 210. I was telling Ryno about warping the floor on the passenger side floor smd he recommended switching to .023 wire for all the sheet metal work. I bought the wire and tips planning on just running the current .030 liner but I didn't think about the damn rollers. Tried it tonight with the .023 wire running through the .030 rollers and it worked *ok*. I offset one of the rollers a bit which helped but I still need to get the .023 ones. They are $40, which sucks.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/2055EEC4-B39B-40FF-B12C-DC111F2A7B5D_zpshbex2rxc.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rsharpe08/media/Jeep/2055EEC4-B39B-40FF-B12C-DC111F2A7B5D_zpshbex2rxc.jpg.html)

Sharpe
01-06-2015, 09:00 PM
Finished forming the new corner and cut out the old one tonight. I'm probably going to cut the side marker light relief out of the old panel and reuse it. I may use a flush mount LED but I don't like how bright most of them are. I'll worry about it later.


http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/36AEC6FB-DBA8-41CD-ADB5-D9B46B462934_zpsrls4jocj.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rsharpe08/media/Jeep/36AEC6FB-DBA8-41CD-ADB5-D9B46B462934_zpsrls4jocj.jpg.html)


http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/816E8DD9-AD3D-4C3B-AC6E-A47A27A6C6EA_zpsvzpnyayi.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rsharpe08/media/Jeep/816E8DD9-AD3D-4C3B-AC6E-A47A27A6C6EA_zpsvzpnyayi.jpg.html)

TexTJ209
01-07-2015, 05:24 PM
Looks good man.

Sharpe
01-07-2015, 06:30 PM
I don't suppose you have a 360 or 401 you're looking to get rid of?

85cj7
01-07-2015, 06:46 PM
Progress is always good.

Seth
01-08-2015, 01:42 PM
Put me first on the 401 list :)

TexTJ209
01-09-2015, 12:34 AM
Nein. All I've got are 258s these days.

Sharpe
01-10-2015, 09:42 PM
Bought steel for the floor supports and tailgate surround today. Didn't really have a plan for the floor when I went to the steel yard. Looking at tube they actually had in stock, I decided on 1x2 and the lightest gauge they had was 14, which is what I got. I upgrayedded the brace layout due to ease of fabrication. I drilled holes and plug welded the floor panel to the braces in a vain attempt to avoid warping. This panel is warped as ****. Between butt welding the panels and the brace plug welds it's pretty FUBAR. It's the drivers floor so it won't get too much direct attention and the spray in bed liner should cover it pretty well but I'll know... For the passenger side I am going to try building the bracing first and then setting the panel on top before welding.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/Jeep/47FA6F20-1A1B-4B6D-9D97-23FE3275659D_zps3ulz98yp.jpg (http://s135.photobucket.com/user/rsharpe08/media/Jeep/47FA6F20-1A1B-4B6D-9D97-23FE3275659D_zps3ulz98yp.jpg.html)

85cj7
01-26-2015, 02:19 PM
Wasn't someone looking for a 304?

This thread is the closest I could find.

http://www.lsjc.org/board/showthread.php?73314-1994-Jeep-Wrangler-YJ-2800obo

Sharpe
01-26-2015, 07:17 PM
No one wants 304s. I want a 360 or 401.