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View Full Version : Chris Scotty's Claton Breakage



Busa
03-02-2005, 09:20 PM
I finally got a chance to take Chris’s Four Runner apart. I fond the rear ring and pinion trashed. The front had a broken axle shaft on the passenger side and he blow up the birfield and the driver’s side.

Fredo
03-02-2005, 10:10 PM
so is this considered a suprise to you guys still....i mean, at this point, why would you even take pics of broken yota axle parts?

mudtoy67
03-02-2005, 10:19 PM
Is "driving it till the wheels don't turn" on the way to "drive it till the wheels fall off?" :flipoff2:

TxCruzr
03-02-2005, 11:27 PM
so is this considered a suprise to you guys still....i mean, at this point, why would you even take pics of broken yota axle parts?

Hey, you can't group all of us in the same group. Busa wheels the piss out of his rig and Chris has some ****ty luck keeping his in one piece.
The toyota stuff holds up great for us mall crawlers :D

BMFScout
03-02-2005, 11:40 PM
I agree it has to do with your style of wheeling, balls to the wall will break **** regardless of it strength. I think Chris's axles went on strike due to the American transplant in the powertrain area.

AggieTJ2007
03-03-2005, 12:14 AM
thats incredible, especially considering that the ARB survived that

StevenAg03
03-03-2005, 12:15 AM
i agree jimmy...im not sure what tires chris is using now, i assume somewhere around 36's, but that combined with a healthy v8 => broken axles....its much different with a 22re

uglyota
03-03-2005, 06:24 AM
who set up the gears?
It's been years since people tried running stock birfs between 35+ tires with locker, gears and 350ci. I'm only running 33s and stock drivetrain and am waiting until I can afford longs to lock it up

davido
03-04-2005, 10:06 AM
That's a little conservative Eric. I think you're pretty safe to run 33s and be locked without Longs. You'd really have to be in a bind to tear them up with that combo. I like the "on strike" bit Jimmy.

uglyota
03-04-2005, 12:27 PM
Seriously?
How was your runner set up?

TxCruzr
03-04-2005, 01:03 PM
I ran mini truck birfs with 35s for a long time. Just dont back up with the wheels turned and they'll last a while.

uglyota
03-04-2005, 01:12 PM
you gaht lockah?
I hate breakage and am trying really hard to build my rig so that any moron (me :D) can get in it turn the key and not worry about anything but keeping the rubber side down. Thus I have my lunchbox locker in storage instead of in the axle. If you guys think I can bind up my heavy 33s and dump the clutch without breaking a birf, I guess I'll go ahead and do it.
sorry for the hijack, chris. 4.88 and 30 spline time?

J Cooper
03-04-2005, 01:16 PM
thats incredible, especially considering that the ARB survived that

thats what there disigned to do.... blow up everything else before the locker.... guess it works

CRaSHnBuRN
03-04-2005, 01:31 PM
ARBs are a strong design. When the longfeilds came out, it moved up the breaking point on toyota axles substantially (sp?). As a result, people began breaking inner axles first. The big problem was the differences in the new breaking point versus the old far exceeded most lockers design specs. So now when you snapped a shaft, you had a descent chance of killing your locker as well. Lunchbox style lockers didn't stand a chance, and even the detriot locker often was killed by the backlash. Yet ARBs to my knowledge have never suffered a failure.

CRaSHnBuRN
03-04-2005, 01:35 PM
not trying to be an ass here, but chris had it coming. A big heavy 2nd gen 4runner, a v8, 35s, and a locker all on stock birfs? Thats just a recipe for disaster. In that kind of rig I wouldn't run anything short of a D60

TxCruzr
03-04-2005, 02:53 PM
you gaht lockah?
I hate breakage and am trying really hard to build my rig so that any moron (me :D) can get in it turn the key and not worry about anything but keeping the rubber side down. Thus I have my lunchbox locker in storage instead of in the axle. If you guys think I can bind up my heavy 33s and dump the clutch without breaking a birf, I guess I'll go ahead and do it.

Worst thing that will happen is you break a birf and have 3 wheel drive just like you would without a locker and it will make you buy the Longs sooner than you planned.

mark
03-04-2005, 03:21 PM
not trying to be an ass here, but chris had it coming. A big heavy 2nd gen 4runner, a v8, 35s, and a locker all on stock birfs? Thats just a recipe for disaster. In that kind of rig I wouldn't run anything short of a D60

When you wheel with Chris, you will soon realize that he always has it coming.
:D
-Mark

uglyota
03-04-2005, 03:22 PM
Worst thing that will happen is you break a birf and have 3 wheel drive just like you would without a locker and it will make you buy the Longs sooner than you planned.
and for $60/each more than planned

stinger7401
03-04-2005, 03:48 PM
all the yota guys bragg about how yota stuff is stronger than 44's and close to 60's, i ran 33's fully locked up and then moved to 36's and only broke when I knew I was but still pushed it passed the limits. It didnt trash my lockers or anything, so if the yota guys back their stories of being stronger than a dana 44 i would say lock it up eric. I ran Cruces, Arizona, Hot Springs, Colorado or more than one occasion, Katemcy, Clayton and so with 44 axles, fully locked and 33's or 36's and never had a problem...

uglyota
03-04-2005, 06:44 PM
that's only after you upgrade the birfields, but I guess I'll lock er up next time I catch up...

8Runner
03-04-2005, 07:20 PM
Hey Guys,
I just wanted to chime in and say I pretty much knew I was in for some breakage on this trip. I was waiting to upgrade axle components until I got the engine/tranny running right. I expected to blow a birf, hub or axle shaft and brought the appropriate spares. What I ddn't expect was to blow everything at once! Good news is that the engine (and electrical system) ran awesome. That is a first in almost 2 years....

Anyway, after discussing with Busa, I am planning on doing the 30 Spline super set on http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

I was wondering, however, if I would be better off setting up a failure point somewhere shy of the 3rd member though. Does anybody think I should purposely run a bit weaker birfs or shafts so that I don't trash my gears or locker? I wish there was some easily replaceable and cheap part that would have a lower tolerance than the time consuming and expensive parts.

uglyota
03-04-2005, 07:24 PM
pull half of the locking hub studs out? :)
I'd get higher gears (5.29s are getting notorious, 4.10s are still king) and keep it all strong. It feels like someone's working on stronger r&ps, but they're not out yet.
Was either of those 3rd members a v6?

mudtoy67
03-07-2005, 01:05 AM
I was wondering, however, if I would be better off setting up a failure point somewhere shy of the 3rd member though. Does anybody think I should purposely run a bit weaker birfs or shafts so that I don't trash my gears or locker? I wish there was some easily replaceable and cheap part that would have a lower tolerance than the time consuming and expensive parts.

Doesn't Warn make some kind of "hub fuses" or something like that. I thought I saw an article about them in peterson's a while back. They're supposed to be a lighter duty inner ring for the hub that breaks a little easier than normal hubs.

BTW, did you ever get your cooling problem fingered out?

TxCruzr
03-07-2005, 01:21 AM
I've read alot where the hub fuse creates enough of a shock load when breaking that it usually takes out other parts. With 30 spline birfs it will probably take the hub out. It would be worth it to switch to asians and send them off to have the extra dowls inserted in them. The weak link would then be the R&P and for that you would have to swap to higher gears and maybe have them cryo'd.
In other words, leave the hubs the weak link and carry a few spares unless you want to regear.

Fredo
03-07-2005, 02:12 AM
i'm still of the mindset that building a failure point into your drivetrain is stupid. If you're worried about breaking what you have you need to either run stronger stuff, run smaller tires, stay out of the happy pedal or just not wheel.

8Runner
03-07-2005, 02:33 AM
Cooling problem is all better, thanks to some superb wack torching and massive radiator fab by Mario. I'm back to a stock water pump and a 2 speed taurus fan now. I didn't even have to use the higher speed on the clayton trip! I even have a spiffy new GM 140 amp alternator, so hopefully no more electrical fires...

No sure if one of the 3rd members was V6, I am betting the rear was since it was originally a V6 - but why should that matter, since they have allnew guts (5.29's and ARB's). I would like to step back down to 4.88's at some point, but that will happen when I can do a crawler setup, because right now it is geared just right.

uglyota
03-07-2005, 11:46 AM
Maybe you need 4.10s and a 203 doubler for that 205 (is that right, or do you run a yota tcase?)
Hub fuses will take out a detroit, but I don't think they will toast an ARB, but you would have to run Warn hubs, for which the toyota models suck. Stick with aisins. You should spin the hub dowels/studs before you strip gears, so that should be your weak link. If you get the upgrade Joseph mentioned (hendrix motorsports I think), it's back on your gears

Violentv8toy
03-07-2005, 12:07 PM
Are you looking for a long term solution, Chris?
Are you planning on doing a crawler setup soon(in the next year)?
Or are you just trying to get back in a wheelable state?

8Runner
03-07-2005, 02:44 PM
I am looking to get it wheelable by Katemcy in april, though I am not planning on hammering it there. I can't afford much more than $1500 or so between now and then. That would cover the mods that Busa suggested.

I don't even know how much the crawler setup will run, but it will definitely be 6-18 months out.


Maybe you need 4.10s and a 203 doubler for that 205 (is that right, or do you run a yota tcase?)

Yes it is a 205 and the 203 doubler is what I was thinking about. Problem is, this means new driveshafts and a lot of other expensive work, with a fair amount of downtime.

The bottom line is that I don't feel like I can swap out gears now, yet that is one of the hardest parts to replace. I hate to make it the weak link...

uglyota
03-07-2005, 04:28 PM
So why not fix it cheap for now, 2 welded 4.10 thirds (or lock-rite front), then swap those gears over to your ARB chunks when you get time/money for the 203 doubler and shafts (though the 203 should only run, what fidolla :D? $300 for the adapter, and your out less than $100 for the two 4.10 thirds, then a hundred or so to get Jesse's dlines extended/shortened?) You've gotta do something about your front shafts regardless, another $635. You should be able to do everything but the ARBs...correctly...for under $1500.

BMFScout
03-07-2005, 04:54 PM
I was just curious what is wrong with american axles? How many people out there are running a small block chevy through toy axles? Every other guy might be, I'm ignorant on the subject. It seems to me that would be the way to go, but I'm not into toyotas either, except for the one I drive every day :)

AggieTJ2007
03-07-2005, 05:31 PM
if you want to do a 203 doubler i have a friend that has a 203

8Runner
03-07-2005, 07:18 PM
So why not fix it cheap for now, 2 welded 4.10 thirds (or lock-rite front), then swap those gears over to your ARB chunks when you get time/money for the 203 doubler and shafts (though the 203 should only run, what fidolla :D? $300 for the adapter, and your out less than $100 for the two 4.10 thirds, then a hundred or so to get Jesse's dlines extended/shortened?) You've gotta do something about your front shafts regardless, another $635. You should be able to do everything but the ARBs...correctly...for under $1500.

I don't want to change my gears until I get the doubler, it would crawl like crap. My drivesafts are high dollar custom Tom Woods jobs, so changing lengths locally and cheaply is probably not cool if I want to keep my warranty's. I also really do not want to run a welded front end - I have enough trouble turning the wheels without it locked (my next project, before the doubler, is a steering upgrade).


I was just curious what is wrong with american axles?

I may do this eventually, but for now, I have too much money in the toy axles to switch them. (Driveshafts, ARB's, all the fab work...). Nothing is ever simple on this truck!


if you want to do a 203 doubler i have a friend that has a 203

How much? Maybe I'd buy it and keep it for later.

Here is what I am thinking:

Now - Longfield Super axles and stay with 5.29's, maybe setup a spare welded thirdmember to compensate for the weak gears. (~$1500)
Next 6 months - Steering upgrade $500???
6-18 months - Doubler
18+ months - new axles (maybe next time I break something major).

stx4wheeler
03-07-2005, 07:35 PM
the 203-205 adapter is around 465 or 500 last time i looked, and a 203 is gonna run you a hundred at minimium, but prolly more like 200 with shipping so add a few more bucks to that, scenario eric.

i also like eric's idea about staying with 4. 10s right now to save money, cause lets say you dont even get the doubler stuff together or in by April, you will still havea working and wheeling vehicle, that will probably be less prone to breakage, jsut my .02

AggieTJ2007
03-07-2005, 08:34 PM
you can have the 203 for $125 and I will deliver it to you (its in dallas) for free

Graystroke
03-07-2005, 09:25 PM
sell it and start over.

BMFScout
03-07-2005, 10:12 PM
what is left of the toy axles, didn't they self destruct? How much fun is it going to be when you drop 1500 bones or more in them, and then they self destruct too. I just think with the amount of damage you had on the last run, it is the size of the axles, not what they are made of.

Shaggy
03-07-2005, 11:09 PM
you can have the 203 for $125 and I will deliver it to you (its in dallas) for free

is this a ford 203... cause if it is ill take it... ill give you the money right now if it is... i really need one

Busa
03-07-2005, 11:22 PM
Everyone talks like toy axle is ****. I like my toy axle. I have put them trough some of the hardest trail around and they have done me well. I have broken my share of parts but I am very hard on my yota. I am going to stay toy as long as I can. Chris does really need to get away from the toy axle because his truck is so heavy.

BMFScout
03-07-2005, 11:59 PM
I like the toy axle with a 22re, not with a 350.

CRaSHnBuRN
03-08-2005, 12:34 AM
face it, with a rig this size, he needs D60s. Scotty, have you ever weighed that thing? I think a toy truck with some measures done to lighten it up a little could survive the 350 and his driving style with upgraded toy axles, but that 4runner body adds a lot of unneccesary weight. As for other domestic axles, I would really question a d44 under the front of that thing. Sure you can try to build it up, and try to make it survive, but its like the arguement everyone keeps making about upgrading the toy axle, why do it? Keep the toy axle and upgrade since its already there, or go to the 60.

Okay, here is an idea. Why not just junk the body and build a formula toy? That would help alot with breeakage due to weight reduction, it would be much easier to keep cool, and it wouldn't have to be so damn tall. You could resell the body to recoop some of the costs. And think what kind of fun a 350 would be in something as light as a buggy?

TxCruzr
03-08-2005, 12:55 AM
Okay, here is an idea. Why not just junk the body and build a formula toy? That would help alot with breeakage due to weight reduction, it would be much easier to keep cool, and it wouldn't have to be so damn tall. You could resell the body to recoop some of the costs. And think what kind of fun a 350 would be in something as light as a buggy?

Unless you want to be able to drive it on the street or really want a full bodied rig that would be a great idea to look into. You could wheel the piss out of it and not have to worry about body damage and the toy axles should last a lot longer under a lighter weight buggy.

CRaSHnBuRN
03-08-2005, 07:33 AM
well, I'm not entirely positive, but I think you could make it street legal. I've been doing some research for my buggy, and it doesn't look that hard. I even talked to one of those little hometown inspection stations, and the guy asked if I meant something like a dune buggy, so i said yeah, and he said sure you can get them inspected. As for full body, yeah its not as nice as the 4runner, but with enough lexan, you can give one a fairly decent body. Look at the first f-toy that was built, with all the paneling it has, it probalay provides just as much protection from the weather as an old jeep or cruiser.

eight
03-08-2005, 09:28 AM
Well, you've got $1500 to spend. Should be able to pick up a d60 and 14 bolt or such for about $1200. Ebay the toy ARBs, for what? $500 each? And about $100 for each set of 5.29s? Probably get another $200 out of what's left of the rest of the axles. So there's about $1400, so lets say $1200. Leaves $1500 to spend on the axles.

8Runner
03-08-2005, 09:44 AM
I really don't want to make this into a huge project right now - I just went through 2 years of huge project and now I want to wheel! I did a little bit of asking on the axle swap thing and minimum I am looking at 3k and a lot of downtime. In addition to paying for the labor (I don't have the time or skill), I would need new wheels (maybe tires if I go 16.5), steering, gears, lockers, etc....

While I can appreciate the buggy idea, this is not my goal for this truck. Maybe someday, I will do a buggy, but it will be in addition to this rig. My goals for this vehicle are for it to be unique, decently capable, comfortable, and good looking - in that priority order too. I am not looking for an extreme crawler and know that the truck will always have it's limitations due to my other goals.

Don't get me wrong, I am frustrated putting $1500 of good money after bad in toyota axles that I know I have outgrown. I am thinking at least I can keep these running and wheelable for a while and then sell what I haven't trashed to put toward D60's or something similar.

edit: I saw Eight's post after typing this - while financially that looks a bit better, it leaves out a few costs (wheels, steering, etc...) not to mention downtime.

eight
03-08-2005, 09:58 AM
OK, so with the mods to the front axle it'll probably survive decently. Should be stronger than a d44. How about swapping something else into the rear? Maybe a 9"? Pick up an EB 9" and put in a $409 detroit and 31 spline alloy axle shafts with 6 lugs. Should be able to do it for about $1000, and get $500 out of the toy rear. How wide are the tacoma rear axles? I think they have a bigger r&p.

CRaSHnBuRN
03-08-2005, 10:03 AM
has he broken the rear yet? I wouldn't bother swapping it unless I was swapping the front as well. Really the only weak link there is the gears

8Runner
03-08-2005, 10:32 AM
has he broken the rear yet? I wouldn't bother swapping it unless I was swapping the front as well. Really the only weak link there is the gears

I stripped a bunch of teeth off the gears in the rear axle. I agree that this will continue to be the weak point until I get a doubler and can swap down to 4.10's. In fact, if I stayed with 5.29's and did new axles, wouldn't this still be the weak point?

AggieTJ2007
03-08-2005, 10:55 AM
I assume that you have the auto? I think that the 4.10s would be doable w/ the auto and the 350. IT might not crawl super slow, but it should be enough and it will help prevent the breakage

uglyota
03-08-2005, 10:57 AM
what about just changing tcases, what would you be looking at to put in 4.10 thirds, welded rear, lockrite front (temporary of course), and something else with lower gears, like a d300 or something, maybe even adapt on a yota tcase?
You might be able to get away without the dshaft mods (btw, how much does TW charge for mods to his own dshafts?).
I agree you need to eventually move to a 60/14b, but you can run the super longfields until you have some time to mess with it, then part out your shafts, arbs, thirds, and crossover steering and you wouldn't have to dump too much more into the boat anchor axles. How do you come up with $1500 after purchase price?

8Runner
03-08-2005, 12:10 PM
what about just changing tcases,

Changing Tcases sounds a little extreme just to allow 4.10's. I don't know enough about this option to really comment though.


btw, how much does TW charge for mods to his own dshafts?

TW charges about $75 per shaft + about $50 shipping both ways.


How do you come up with $1500 after purchase price?

I think you are asking for my total for the current work Busa is proposing doing:
$625 Super Longfield Kit
$50 2 Spindles
$150 R&P Setup by 4WP (The R&P themselves are warrantied)
$150 Misc (gear oil, bearings, seals, etc...)
~$500 labor
$1475 Total

uglyota
03-08-2005, 12:14 PM
I meant $1500 after purchase of d60/14b
what happened to your spindles, and where are you getting them for $25?
the point of "just to run 4.10s" is that you have to do something that will allow you to run 4.10s if you want to run yota axles and stop breaking r&ps

8Runner
03-08-2005, 12:32 PM
what happened to your spindles, and where are you getting them for $25?
the point of "just to run 4.10s" is that you have to do something that will allow you to run 4.10s if you want to run yota axles and stop breaking r&ps


I don't know, Busa just said the spindles needed to be replaced. He has some spares around he'll give me for $25ea.

I am seriously considering your (and several others) suggestion to swap down to 4.10s. Since I can get these 5.29's replaced for just the $150 setup though, I am tempted to try them first and then swap them next time I break them. The way I figure it, it would cost $450-$600 for the 4.10 swap (depending on the deal 4wp cuts me), plus the pain in the ass (labor cost) of taking the front end apart.

uglyota
03-08-2005, 12:41 PM
BTW, I'm not talking about buying 4.10 gears from 4wheelfarts. The original yota gears have got to be stronger. You've got to pull the front end apart anyway to install your longs. 12 extra nuts to remove is a moot point.

8Runner
03-08-2005, 12:53 PM
BTW, I'm not talking about buying 4.10 gears from 4wheelfarts. The original yota gears have got to be stronger. You've got to pull the front end apart anyway to install your longs. 12 extra nuts to remove is a moot point.

Good point. Not sure what I was thinking about on the front end labor. I will talk to Busa about this later today.

8Runner
03-08-2005, 06:26 PM
Ok, after talking to Busa and Davido, and hearing your suggestions, I have decided to give 4.10's a try - IF I can find them, that is. Does anyone have a lead on some stock 4.10s? I would need to at least get a bead on them in the next couple of days, because I was planning on getting the 5.29's replaced on Thursday in Austin.

uglyota
03-08-2005, 08:23 PM
there's always some on pirate...

davido
03-08-2005, 09:40 PM
It's on eeeeebayyyy!

CRaSHnBuRN
03-08-2005, 11:44 PM
I've got one stock diff at the house with 4.10s. Pm me

AggieTJ2007
03-09-2005, 12:01 AM
here are front and rear 4.10s from a tacoma for $160
I noticed that the shipping was $80? So I sent him an email asking why
Tacoma 4.10's on ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7959410284&category=33731&sspagename=WDVW)

AgDieseler
03-09-2005, 12:31 AM
As far as "having" to swap from 15" rims when making the jump to a D60, don't sweat it. Just grind the calipers, use tape weights, and run it - no big deal.

stx4wheeler
03-09-2005, 12:54 AM
right but you will need to run 2.75 backspacing with 15 inch rims, thats what i am gonna have to do, well ill look a little weird with 2.75 on the front and 4 in on the back till i get the money to change um all over, but as he said one tons will be a long way off for him so i guess this is not that important.

8Runner
03-09-2005, 02:40 AM
I thought taco axles were different. Will those gears work with my setup?

AgDieseler
03-09-2005, 08:39 AM
right but you will need to run 2.75 backspacing with 15 inch rims, thats what i am gonna have to do, well ill look a little weird with 2.75 on the front and 4 in on the back till i get the money to change um all over, but as he said one tons will be a long way off for him so i guess this is not that important.
I've got 3.5", and I had to grind about half the caliper. It may be different on dual piston Ferd stuff. Chevies can easily run 4" with a fair bit of grinding.

uglyota
03-09-2005, 10:53 AM
need a picture...some tacos used 8.4, some used 8"
I think that the 8.4s will go in your diffs, but I'm not positive. If they're taco 8" then they're probably trd and have the elocker

8Runner
03-09-2005, 10:55 AM
Sweet - I got some quick responses to my Wanted post on Pirate. I already found 2 stock 4.10 for $30 ea, and a hopefully a complete third member with 4.10's for $30 more. I'll wld up the complete third member to use as a spare.

uglyota
03-09-2005, 10:58 AM
I always wondered why you guys use a welded third as your spare...I think I would want an open third for the spare, at least without hydro assist, so you can turn the wheels while you're limping out. Just my opinion.
Sounds like a good deal, chris.

stx4wheeler
03-09-2005, 12:11 PM
I always wondered why you guys use a welded third as your spare...I think I would want an open third for the spare, at least without hydro assist, so you can turn the wheels while you're limping out. Just my opinion.
Sounds like a good deal, chris.

I could be totally wrong here since i am not so knowledgeable about yota's ,but from what i have seen it seems like most of them are breaking the rear third member's so i guess they, are wanting a locked rear in case of a break, but yeah i would think a welded front would be a pita without hydo assist.

awesome deal chris glad your trying this approach.

eight
03-09-2005, 12:14 PM
Well, this "they", if you're meaning scott and busa, do have hydro assist. And scott has a welded front anyway.

8Runner
03-09-2005, 12:28 PM
From my limited knowledge, I was thinking I could unlock a hub in tight steering situation. It's a good point though. Upgraded steering is my next project. Maybe I will wait until then to weld my spare.

Another point is that if my front end breaks, it is probably not a fix that would be worthwhile on a trip (I think somebody said it's a 6 hour job?!?). It's the rear that usually breaks anyway, (which is more like a 2-3 hour job I think from helpling scott with his in Clayton).

redcagepatrol
03-09-2005, 12:43 PM
you gaht lockah?
I hate breakage and am trying really hard to build my rig so that any moron (me :D) can get in it turn the key and not worry about anything but keeping the rubber side down. Thus I have my lunchbox locker in storage instead of in the axle. If you guys think I can bind up my heavy 33s and dump the clutch without breaking a birf, I guess I'll go ahead and do it.
sorry for the hijack, chris. 4.88 and 30 spline time?
Eric, I only broke one stock birfield while running 33's and went many places all locked up. I only started breaking stock ones when I stepped up to 37's...

And for Chris - good luck with everything...

uglyota
03-09-2005, 03:16 PM
Scott and busa run hi-pinion thirds in front, which are reverse cut and stronger for front application, chris is running a standard low-pinion in front, which should actually be weaker than the same thing in a rear application.

If it's just a 3rd member swap, the rear should only be like a 1-hour job, front might take a few hours, but not 6

Thanks scott, I'll swap 'er in then.

redcagepatrol
03-09-2005, 04:24 PM
If it's just a 3rd member swap, the rear should only be like a 1-hour job

By the time you get it jacked up, on jack stands, drain the fluid, pull the shafts, disconnect the driveshaft, get all of the broken parts out, drink a beer, clean off the mating surfaces, put it back together, find missing nuts, drink another beer, smear silicone on, put the shafts back in, redrill the 3rd member flange to match the driveshaft, find fluid to fill it back up with and fill it up and get it back on it's tires - I bet it will be at least two hours without airtools... :flipoff2:

uglyota
03-09-2005, 04:34 PM
redrill the 3rd member flange to match the driveshaft...
standard procedure?
:laughing:

redcagepatrol
03-09-2005, 05:02 PM
standard procedure?
:laughing:
it seams that way... Spare driveshafts, spare 3rd members, nothing ever seems to match :flipoff2:

BMFScout
03-09-2005, 05:03 PM
I don't think you drank enough beer in that description...

Violentv8toy
03-14-2005, 09:08 AM
i don't think you'll mind the crawl, chris. Its not that bad. its liveable esp with as much low end as you've got. If you need any help, let me know.