Pigpen

[CRaSHnBuRN]

so is it time for this yet? http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=454424

[BMFScout]

I like that guys boatsides, definitely need to do that. I'm thinking something like that, but not quite that aggressive.

[eight]

Yes, do big boat sides like that, chop the top and rake the windshield back. Then narrow the front, drop that aluminum radiator down between the frame rails, and drop the front of the hood.

[JeepPhisherman]

Boatsides would be pretty pimp

Anyone ever do some boatsides running from the bottom of the frame to the rocker panel, without cutting the rockers out? Like a mini boatside, with some sliders or steps welded onto the outside?

[Sharpe]

The other two 6.2s I have are stupid rusty on the outside, but decent looking on the inside. The biggest problem with them is that the exhaust manifold bolts are rusted solidly to the heads on 3 of the 4 heads I have. They are rusted so bad there is no trace of the bolt head and no way that I can see to get them off. If the heads on my truck are in decent shape, I could possibly use them, but I have no idea what the combustion chambers look like on them. There are a few other things that need to be done before I mess with the motor, but when the time comes I will probably just snag a piston from one of the other motors and stick it in there. I think I am going to boat side it first, then narrow the front and come up with some kind of tube protection. What size tube should I use for the boatsiding? I have some 2x2 1/4 wall square tube and 3x6 1/4 wall at my shop, the 2x2 seems a little small and the 3x6 a little big, but I dont want to buy any if I dont have to.

[73bronco]

jew

[Reckless]

still needs a turbo

[CheapJeep]

chromoly :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

jew
Fag

still needs a turbo
The money can be better spent on other areas of the truck.

chromoly
Thats not a size you homo, and no. Again, the money can be better spent on other areas.

[sasquatch]

new transmission

[CheapJeep]

Just fawking with you.

Sounds like you need a wire wheel or air chisel, and your favorite rust eater/prevention what have you, for the rusted exhaust manifold bolts. Seriously though, use the square tube to do the boatside then wrap it in some sheetmetal. For the front I'd make it look nice and use something beside's square tubing, maybe some 2" .125 HREW.

[Sharpe]

I wasnt thinking about using the square tube for the front, just the boatsiding. The front is going to be done in either 1 1/2 or 2" tube.

[Sharpe]

Well I've been thinking about my radiator situation for when I taper the front. The stock 6.2 radiator is HUGE. It extends past the opening in the core support about 6" on the driver's side. This poses a problem, because of the way the radiator is mounted. Since its offset, I wouldnt be able to narrow both sides all the way into the body mount, and that would look stupid. Centering it would be a ***** because the little ears that hold the rubber bushings in place are offset, I could probably fab up some new ones without too much trouble though.

On other option that I considered was getting a custom 5 or 6 core radiator made that is narrower, so it will fit between th ebody mounts. Kopecki seems to think I should make it narrow enought to drop down between the frame rails so I can lower my hood and increase my visibility, but I think narrowing it that much will make it too small to adequetly cool the 6.2. I do however, want to lower the hood if at all possible, because I cant see **** over it on climbs and am afraid I am going to run over my spotter eventually, and good spotters are hard to replace.

I was brainstorming over potential ideas, then I remembered that on C/K series chevy trucks (88-99, the body style like my crewcab), their radiators are 2" shorter than the older boxy models like pigpen. Since when I narrow the front the fenders are going to have to be kludged to the core support anyway, I was thinking of taking a core support and radiator from a C/K truck and putting in on the front of pigpen, then cutting a couple of inches off the large lip on the front of my hood to lower it a total of 4" or so. I can probably make the fenders angle downward to match it and make it look decent. The later model core support will require some ethnic thinking and a little fabrication but shouldnt be too hard. I might even grab a later model grill to stick on there.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

rear mounted radiator? Not like you have much back there anyway, and then you could put your winch where the radiator was and get a better approach angle.

[Sharpe]

I've thought about that, but it would be alot more work. It is still a consideration though. The way the winch is mounted now, it does not hurt my approach angle at all. It is 95% inside the stock frame and sits about 3/4" in front of the radiator.

[agjohn02]

summit aluminum

[eight]

Is it really that hard to cool a 130 hp motor?

[Sharpe]

I dont know but I'm sure chevy put the biggest radiator they made in front of it for a reason.

[uglyota]

because they expected you to be towing with it, perhaps?

[Reckless]

the rule of thumb is one cube per cube of displacement so what im trying to say is that 6.2 is around 370-380 (im too lazy to do the math)cubic inches so you need a radiatior with the same dimentions. thats what they use in heavy truck so its should be the same. Its not the same with gas b/c diesel puts out more heat than gas.

[Sharpe]

6.2 is 379. So according to your rule of thumb the radiator GM uses in front of the 6.2 is approximately 32x18x2 which equals 1152 cubic inches. Something about that doesnt sound right to me.

[TexTJ209]

Should be 1 square inch of radiator surface area for every one cubic inch of engine.

[JeepPhisherman]

Should be 1 square inch of radiator surface area for every one cubic inch of engine.


then it still works out the same for his rad. unless you only count the front side

[RCcola55]

rear radiator, thus allowing a smaller one because extra length of hose that it would add would help cool it and you are adding extra coolant along with it

[TexTJ209]

then it still works out the same for his rad. unless you only count the front side


Yeah, its not the total surface area, but rather the area that gets exposed to the airflow. The numbers are for the front only..

[eight]

So then its the same for a brass 1 core that's 3/4" thick or a 4 core or an aluminum 2 core thats 4" thick.

[Reckless]

Yeah, its not the total surface area, but rather the area that gets exposed to the airflow. The numbers are for the front only..

Exactly, i had lunch on the mind at the time.

[Shaggy]

if you wanted a big radiator for it I have a catapilar one i was thinking of using time back... it is just taking up space in my shop right now

[stx4wheeler]

radiator in the back, i garuntee it would be no larger a pain in the ass then having to remount the stock one or another custom unit. Plus it will cool better, i mean all it is some exhaust tubing or something of the like with a couple connectors and bends.

also some custom radiator, well maybe just the low end ones like summits, two row that has 1.5 inch wide rows or whatever i have dont come with any mounting brackets and are kinda pain to install.

[sasquatch]

i mean all it is some exhaust tubing or something of the like with a couple connectors and bends.


you use exhaust tube for liquid? :flipoff2:

[stx4wheeler]

yes robert something like aluminized(sp) exhaust tubing "OR SOMETHING OF THE LIKE" as i previously stated, would be very good. With exhaust tubing you have so many different diameters to choose from, plus you can go to autozone or your parts place of choice and pick from like 10 or 15 different pieces and bends, or even some of the flexible exhaust tube.
So yes thats what i meant robert, sorry if i didint think shedule 40 or huge 11 ft long rubber hoses running from the motor to the damn radiator.

[sasquatch]

easy there, sand up bunghole. just saying exhaust tube seems like a pain in the ass to bend up to what you'd want. you'd have to weld the connections, and even then i'd bet it'd leak through some small hole eventually. its pretty thin as well.

i didnt say it was the worst idea ever :flipoff2:

[Reckless]

Isnt that what Feller is running in his buggy?

[sasquatch]

i don't know. i've never looked at fellers buggy that close

[stx4wheeler]

and i believe thats what keiswetter had on his eb contraption

[Shaggy]

his was some think wall tube actually... he just used straight sticks and linked them with rubber hose

[CheapJeep]

easy there, sand up bunghole.
Funnay :laughing:

[CRaSHnBuRN]

yeah, its exhaust tubing, works fine

[agjohn02]

sweet fullsize oil burner

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1976-Jimmy-Rock-Crawler-6-2-diesel-Ats-turbo-Dana-60-14_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6737QQitemZ463145822 0QQrdZ1

[CheapJeep]

sweet fullsize oil burner

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1976-Jimmy-Rock-Crawler-6-2-diesel-Ats-turbo-Dana-60-14_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6737QQitemZ463145822 0QQrdZ1
That's a bad *****.

[davido]

Hell yeah! Seems like a pretty decent price also. Looks like a psuedo Vincentmobile creation.

[Sharpe]

Pigpen lives again. After spending 1 month swapping the tranny, I finally got to test drive it today and it works at 100%. The damn thing even shifts into second and third gear and the modulator isnt even hooked up! It shifts late and hard but it still works!

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Why does this make me think of the scene with Dr. Frankenstien telling Igor to throw the switch? I bet robbie would make a good Igor for ya. :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

He did come out to watch me drive it around and got prety excited with my burnout. My burn wasnt NEARLY as good as the two Robbie did in his truck on saturday night :laughing: but I dont want to kill my tires that bad.

[HULK-1]

I remember those 2 saturday night, the second one was the best. O and robert forgot to mention when we were putting the tranny back in a few days ago, it fell off the jack and the bellhousing hit robbie in the head, de de de haha. :flipoff2:

[muddyjack]

Hey don't forget about friday night robert, thats craziest that I've been on the Bronc!Thanx fer eggin me on or was that Jason? :cheers:

[Sharpe]

It was a group effort. :gigem: That thing rips! I challenge you to a race :flipoff2:

[agjohn02]

did somebody say race?

[Sharpe]

I think I ran my motor out of oil this weekend :laughing: . We were on a perfectly level trail and I looked down and noticed I didnt have any pressure so I shut it off and checked the dipstick. It was bone dry but isnt checking the oil level while the engine is running misleading because the oil is circulating throughout the motor? One way or the other I dumped 4 quarts in it cause that was all I had and started it back up. At first it still was reading 0 but then after a minute or so it jumped back up to normal. Oops. It isnt making any more funny noises than usual so I'm not too worried about it but I suppose I will be checking it more often from now on.

[Seth]

wow. check oil while engine is not running. Wait a minute or so after you shut it off as well so that the majority has a chance to drain back down to the pan. Overfilling can be harmful to your rear main if I am not mistaken. I think I did that once at work on one of the ambulances. oops.

[agjohn02]

you forgot to check the gas and fill the oil didnt you? [cough,cough] :flipoff2:

[davido]

Robert, can you show me how to increase the pressure on my power steering pump? Also, do you have a bracket for a 350 w/ v-belts that goes on top of the power steering pump, that has the adjuster part in it?

[Sharpe]

Yah, when do you want to do it? I probably do have a bracket but it'd be back home.

[agjohn02]

Robert, can you show me how to increase the pressure on my power steering pump? Also, do you have a bracket for a 350 w/ v-belts that goes on top of the power steering pump, that has the adjuster part in it?


http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html

[davido]

Thanks John. He's actually done it before though. Maybe tomorrow night?

[Sharpe]

Aight.

[J Cooper]

i might have the bracket

[davido]

You would be my hero Coop. :) How much? Also, I have a Toyota PS reservoir that you gave me that wouldn't work for what I was thinking of. I'll bring it back to you.

[Sharpe]

Reviewing the tail/market light situation, would I be better off shelling out a little extra for LED's all around right off the bat or should I try normal bulbs first and see how well they last?

[Shaggy]

the led ones are harder to destroy

[Sharpe]

I went to TSC today and priced the lights. To go LED would have cost about $60 for two tail lights and two front marker lights, which was 3x more than regular lights. So I got regular lights. I was thinking about mounting them on some kind of spring so if they get whacked by a tree or rock they might have a chance of not breaking, any ideas on a source of a spring that would be "just right"?

[mudtoy67]

CB antenna spring might be just right.

[JeepPhisherman]

CB antenna spring might be just right.

I think he means a spring to absorb the force, which a CB antenna wouldn't work well for at all.

Just mount them. If they get busted, use some of that tail-light tape.

[mudtoy67]

Not an antenna, just the spring mount that is sometimes used with firestik antennas. If he's talking about mounting on the end of a spring, I have seen some cb antenna springs that are pretty sturdy, so that the light is not dangling, but yet they give plenty when pushed on.

Maybe one of these

http://cgi.ebay.com/Black-Spring-for-2-5mm-100-Antenna-Whip-CB-Ham-Radio_W0QQitemZ5838374689QQihZ008QQcategoryZ4672QQ ssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://www.valcoelectronics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=VE&Product_Code=JBC304

[Sharpe]

Yah I thought about that, in fact I even have one already that is too small for my current antenna so I think I'll give that a try.

[JeepPhisherman]

I was thinking about a spring mounted behind the lamp, so that when the lamp is pushed on, the spring is compressed (which a CB antenna spring wouldn't work for), not having the spring mounted on the side? so the spring bends, not compresses.

[Sharpe]

Well as far as the tail lights go I tried the spring idea and it turns out springs dont like being welded. So The tail light mounts are gonna be solid and have a little cage around the lights to protect them. One side is done and looks like **** and I might do the other side tonight if I have enough time. I got the steering almost done. I really f'ing hate reaming, words can hardly describe my hatred of it. I need to ream the steering arm out a little more but otherwise everything's ready to go. The new pitman arm I snagged off a ford van is the wrong vintage so the indexing splines are 45 degrees off, so I will resume the hunt next week. Here's some before and after pics.

[AggieTJ2007]

I like the diff cover

[uglyota]

why don't you take a triangle file and grind an extra spline into the indexing spline?

[agjohn02]

One side is done and looks like ****



at least it fits the overall theme :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

Well I got everything buttoned up for the trip today. Pigpen's better than he's ever been; the tranny works and shifts normaly (it will probably still slip when the tires get bound up though), the steering is 100% straight and tight, the passenger side door has been removed, and one tail light has been installed (one is better than none right?).

Also, aparently pigpen can do stoppies.

[Sharpe]

Pigpen wont run after the trip and I need a snorkel before i do any more muddin.

[uglyota]

didja see these?
http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=10350

[Sharpe]

Yah but I'm too po right now.

[Sharpe]

Well since I've been out of town I havent touched pigpen since the Alto trip (besides pushing it off the trailer) but I've been thinking about what might be wrong with the motor. I was just tear assing through the mud pits and I stopped for a sec when I was almost out and the motor just died. Since I dont have any inner fenders and run with the lid on my air cleaner flipped, the air filter got drenched with muddy water so at first I figured it was clogged up and choked out the motor. I had one of the "severe duty" filters on it that came with an extra foam pre-cleaner around the paper filter and the foam part was the only one that got soaked, the paper was still dry. I took the air cleaner off and there was a little bit of muddy water in the intake, I think it just leaked in through the screw holes in the aircleaner lid. It didnt look like enough to affect the motor at all but now I'm not so sure.

After we dragged it back to camp, I went and bought a new air filter and new fuel filter, but that didnt seem to help. When it first died in the pits, it wouldnt hardly crank at all, I dont know what to attribute that to. After waiting for awhile it was able to crank again, but it wouldnt start. So after changine the filters out and purging the air from the new filter, I pull a few of the glowplugs and cranked on it some more. It was shooting a puff of fuel out while cranking so it appears that it is still getting fuel, but as Oliver said if a 6.2 wont run its either fuel or fuel. I'm hoping for some reason I just need to crank it some more and maybe bleed the injector lines, but I'll get after it when I get back to CS.

In summary, I think my injection pump might have crapped out on me, but thats usually not a catastrophic event right?

[davido]

What kind of power does a 6.2 make? As much as a tired SB350, or close? Can you turbo them? If so how much would that run and what kind of power would you be talking about then? i.e. How do they compare to like a 5.9 cummins?

[uglyota]

think more along the lines of "tired 22re" (but with more torque)
the comparison to a cummins ends at "they both use diesel fuel"
:flipoff2:

[jerryg79]

the comparison to a cummins ends at "they both use diesel fuel"
:flipoff2:

:laughing:

[AgDieseler]

Any chance you gulped too much water down the intake? I've done that and it sucked. Are you getting fuel past the lift pump? IPs don't just up and die usually. Their death is generally preceded by a long line of hard starts.

You can turbo a 6.2L, and they will make good power, but it has to be on a solid crack-free foundation. Maximum reliable power with an IC is about 500-550 lb-ft.

[Seth]

Ic?

[Sharpe]

Factory 6.2s make about 140 hp and ~280 ft lbs. which is the same as a 350 of the same vintage. One would be perfect in the cruiser Davido.

There is a chance it took a big gulp of water, the mud pits were more muddy water so I suppose a good dose could have found its way down the intake. I figured this wasnt the case though because the motor wasnt hydrolocked, it still cranks. I took 3 glowplugs out and turned the motor over and nothing that looked like water came out. Robbie's dad suggested maybe I got some water in the fuel so I emptied the water seperator on the filter but it didnt seem to have much (or any...) water in it. Next step is going to be to push a little of whatever is at the bottom of the fuel tank out with air pressure like I did when I was first trying to get it running.

[Seth]

Factory 6.2s make about 140 hp and ~280 ft lbs. which is the same as a 350 of the same vintage. One would be perfect in the cruiser Davido.

350s are lighter - more HP - rev more - and easier to get power out of. IMO.

[KrazyKarl02]

Factory 6.2s make about 140 hp and ~280 ft lbs. which is the same as a 350 of the same vintage. One would be perfect in the cruiser Davido. .

So what is the weight difference?

[KrazyKarl02]

350s are lighter - more HP - rev more - and easier to get power out of. IMO.

Looks like someone beat me to it....

[Sharpe]

350s are lighter - more HP - rev more - and easier to get power out of. IMO.
100 pounds lighter doesnt make that much difference in a 6000 pound truck. They DO NOT have more horsepower when comparing FACTORY motors OF THE SAME VINTAGE (YEAR). They do have the potential to rev higher, yippee, we all know how often we (everyone besides Creighton :flipoff2: ) rev our **** above 4k while wheelin. "Easier" is a very subjective word. You can turbo a 6.2 and get about 400 ft lbs. for the same or less than it would cost to do the same to a SBC.

I didnt only pick the 6.2 because it was cheap.

[robertf03]

ls1

[Reckless]

But its cooler to smoke out the people behind you!

[CheapJeep]

I still think it's the lift pump, but I really don't know much about diesel's.

Diesel's are way cooler IMO, more torque, and they're way easier to work on from what I've seen.

[agjohn02]

robert, if you had a diesel that ran well and made crap for power this argument might be viable, but a tbi 350 would wheel the pants off of your 6.2l.

[davido]

Ooooooooooooooooh. He told you. ;)

[Seth]

i really want to know real world weight diff between the two.

an 87 tbi 350 was rated for 210 horse from the factory.

the earlier models were 160 or 175 hp with 260 or 275 torque. 6.2 was 240 and 135.

If you want to defend the 6.2, go with things like durability, economy, torque curve, simplicity, waterproofness, etc.

[Sharpe]

i really want to know real world weight diff between the two.
I am f'ing telling you straight up as someone who has pulled, disassembled and stared at SBC's, BBC's, 6.2's and 6.5's that a 6.2 is halfway between a SBC and BBC in physical size and weight. SBC's weigh ~550 lbs. 6.2's weigh ~650 lbs. and BBC's weigh ~750 lbs. I have had more of each type of engine in my possesion than years it took you to do your D44 swap (haha biatch! :flipoff2: ) so I deffinately think I know what I'm talking about here. I deliberately sold a couple of TBI 454's that I had in my possesion because a 6.2 would work for me just fine and would be easier to install and run.

John, a TBI 350 might do "as well" as MY 6.2, but TBI motors are a significant step up from carb'd 350s, which is what I assumed we were comparing all along. My 6.2 allegedly has a cracked piston and is in otherwise unknown condition, so its not really a fair basis for comparison. The burban has a TBI 350 in it and while it ran well most of the time, it did give me a few electrical issues, which as the way I see it is the biggest drawback to a fuel injected gasser.

I have a TBI system at my disposal right now and could kludge together a decent SBC but you know what, I'm stickin with a 6.2 cause it gets the job done and is simple, easy and cheap.

[CheapJeep]

I have had more of each type of engine in my possesion than years it took you to do your D44 swap so I deffinately think I know what I'm talking about here.
dizzam you got owned!!!!1

[AgDieseler]

Ic?
Intercooled.

[eight]

You may have bent some rods. If you just get a little water in the motor it'll do that. Takes more water to lock it. Bent rods will lower the compression and you allready had low compression I think. I suppose you know to hold the pedal on the floor when trying to start it. Shoot a little starter fluid down the intake and it should start. No I don't want to hear about all the evils of starter fluid from you city boys.

A 6.2 makes about the same power and torque as a tbi 4.3. It's good for a 1/2 ton or blazer, but not really anything more.

[agjohn02]

A 6.2 makes about the same power and torque as a tbi 4.3. It's good for a 1/2 ton or blazer, but not really anything more.


teeheehee :flipoff2:

[CheapJeep]

Step 1. Light match
Step 2. Remove gas tank cap
Step 3. Drop lit match in gas tank
Step 4. Walk away.... :flipoff2:

This same procedure should be performed by Danny.

[agjohn02]

Step 1. Light match
Step 2. Remove gas tank cap
Step 3. Drop lit match in gas tank
Step 4. Walk away.... :flipoff2:

This same procedure should be performed by Danny.


and you shouldnt follow suit why?

[jerryg79]

and you shouldnt follow suit why?
:gigem:

[BMFScout]

Because he has way more entertaining ways to destroy a vehicle! :gigem:

[uglyota]

now if he could only find that pesky gas tank...

[RCcola55]

i think the dexter house as a whole should have a vehicle burning party

[HULK-1]

Im sure instead of burning it robbie, you can find a creative way to make it sit permenantly in the driveway on 2 wheels also :flipoff2:

[CheapJeep]

yeah, but your's doesn't run.... :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

Im sure instead of burning it robbie, you can find a creative way to make it sit permenantly in the driveway on 2 wheels also :flipoff2:
BURN :flipoff2:


Step 1. Light match
Step 2. Remove gas tank cap
Step 3. Drop lit match in gas tank
Step 4. Walk away....

Feel free to point out any advantages the chromohomo has over pigpen... Motor, wait nope. Gearing? Nope not that either. Axles? FUC|< NO. Tires? Eh, maybe. Cling to that...

[CheapJeep]

I'm not so sure on that. With all this new information and tech being brought forth about how lame a 6.2 is, a 258 might be a better choice... :flipoff2:

BTW- what's your crawl ratio? I'd like to see this almighty gearing you speak of...

[agjohn02]

BURN :flipoff2:


x2!!! :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

I dont know it right off hand cause I dont know the first gear ratio of my tranny but I know its better than yours.

[agjohn02]

he's got you beat robbie. he's around 40:1 your ~28.5:1. his swartz is definately bigger, but ill bet your 258 makes more torque.

[AgDieseler]

...With all this new information and tech being brought forth about how lame a 6.2 is, a 258 might be a better choice...
Any chance that Pigpen's motor, though it does run somtimes, might not be the best example of a 6.2?

Years ago, I bent #8 rod from gulping water, replaced the piston and rod (parts were $50), and it ran like a champ afterward.

But hey, I could be wrong.

[bburris]

Yeah, what the hell do you know about Chevy diesels?

[StevenAg03]

i know they are just a converted chevy gas motor....right david? :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

[uglyota]

Any chance that Pigpen's motor, though it does run somtimes, might not be the best example of a 6.2?

Years ago, I bent #8 rod from gulping water, replaced the piston and rod (parts were $50), and it ran like a champ afterward.

But hey, I could be wrong.
yeah but he's not gonna dump all that time and money into that old motor...
:D

[Sharpe]

Because he has way more entertaining ways to destroy a vehicle! :gigem:
I totaly missed this the first time but...

0wn3d :flipoff2:

I guess once the driveway is clear of other (red) crap I'll take the mota out of pigpen and tear into it to see whats wrong. If its a (few) bad piston(s) and/or rod(s) then I'll just snag whatever I need from a donor block and throw it back together.

[Sharpe]

Oliver, any chance it might just be the injectors? I was readin on CK5 and several people were saying their trucks made quite a bit of white smoke (unburned fuel) and were hard to start then they replaced the injectors and it cleared up. I have a spare set of injectors so if you think its a good idea I'll try it.

In other news, Tommy came through and found this little gem for me. Its a good thing I dont have any money right now...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10101/s-10101/p-100000223600/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000223600/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000223600

[davido]

I saw a skoolie with that hood ornament. Perfect for your rig.

[Sharpe]

Well I found a parts truck with a whole new motor for $300. Its in Vidor and I think I'm gonna go get it either sometime next week or next weekend.

[Sharpe]

Well I decided to pass on the parts truck because I dont have time to deal with it and Ed's brother is supposed to be bringin me a CUCV take out motor soon. Hopefully its in decent shape, I asked the guy for the best one he has so we'll see. I have also located a set of exhaust manifolds off a 6.5 T/D for a decent price so I think I am going to get them and if the motor turns out to be in good shape, then maybe start looking for a turbo.

Oliver, what kinda turbo do I want for this setup (stock J-code 6.2 with 6.5 manifolds)? Honestly I've been happy enough with the low end performance of a n/a 6.2 so a turbo that is more top-end oriented would be cool.

While I have the motor out, I am also going to boatside it, and tube and narrow the front end. If the plans in my head come to be then the front will look sick and work great when its all said and done. I'm also planning on re-working my engine crossmember because the current one hangs down too low. I'll use a few pieces from the old one but the new version will have much more clearance.

Hopefully I can do all this and be able to make a trip or two before Clayton, but we'll just have to see what I have time to do and what I can afford.

[Sharpe]

Well Kevin and Ryan seem to think kludging pieces from two old motors together isnt a very good idea so I'm thinking about a full rebuild now. The only place I've been able to find a full kit is on ebay and its $635 shipped. The auction says the components are Mahle which is good enough for me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6-2L-6-2-GM-Chevy-Diesel-Engine-Rebuild-Kit-FreeShippin_W0QQitemZ320038805026QQihZ011QQcategor yZ33620QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Does anyone (Oliver) know of any other places that might have full rebuild kits for a 6.2? I'm am also going to have the injection pump and injectors rebuilt so that will be another $400. This is getting expensive fast. Motors suck.

[AgDieseler]

Oliver, what kinda turbo do I want for this setup (stock J-code 6.2 with 6.5 manifolds)? Honestly I've been happy enough with the low end performance of a n/a 6.2 so a turbo that is more top-end oriented would be cool.
GM8 turbos off 97 - 2000 6.5TDs work well and are somewhat easy to find. My MHI TE06H is hard to find, but also work well. If you're going to put more than 65 cu mm of fuel in there (like a DB2 4911) then think about a used Holset HX35 for lots of low end boost. Holsets go for cheap on eBay.


Does anyone (Oliver) know of any other places that might have full rebuild kits for a 6.2?
Northern Auto Parts has a 6.2 / 6.5 full kit with good quality parts.

[Sharpe]

Thanks Oliver, looks like they have exactly what I want which is just a ring, bearing and gasket kit. I was hoping to avoid replacing the pistons so I wouldnt have to get the assembly ballanced and save some money so that kit will work out perfectly. Here's the kit, its $290

http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=1847

Should I do anything else (such as honing) to the block before I reassemble it? Also, it looks like I can upgrade to fel-pro gaskets for another $36, is it worth it? I'll get a new oil pump while I have it apart too, but I'll just get that from Napa.

My plan right now is to just build a bottom end, and stick the best two heads I have on there with the factory original bolts. Later on, when I can afford it, I'll rebuild a set of heads with new valves, seals, etc and get the ARP stud kit. Then turbo... Sound like a decent plan?

PS I am also replacing the torque converter while I have everything out.

[eight]

Yes you have to hone. Grayson will probably tell something gay involving dingle-berries.

[jerryg79]

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/221382642.html

[Sharpe]

Hmmmm that is a good deal but the injection pump is the electronic version. What exactly is involved with swapping the pump out to a purely mechanical one oliver? Is that the only thing that needs to be done?

[eight]

Do you really need the mechanical pump? I think the electrical one is pretty much stand alone.

[AgDieseler]

Hmmmm that is a good deal but the injection pump is the electronic version. What exactly is involved with swapping the pump out to a purely mechanical one oliver? Is that the only thing that needs to be done?
The DS4 pumps are throttle by wire, and that requires computers, sensors, and other electronic things violative of the Pigpen charter.

I don't recall 100%, but I think you can just swap the DS4 for a DB2 mechanical pump. There will be a crank position sensor that would then be useless except to plug a hole.

Always hone. Get the oil pump from GM, and get one for a 99 6.5TD - high volume. I rebuild one side of my first 6.2L and reused the head bolts, which is a big no-no, but it ran great afterward. Reuse originals for pre-head rebuilt, and regular Fel Pro TTY for post head rebuild. Unless you're going to 300 hp and 550+ lb-ft, don't spend the coin on the ARP head studs. Fel Pro head gaskets are worth the extra money.

[agjohn02]

i think oliver just lurks on here waiting for diesel questions

[Sharpe]

Excelent info, thanks. The DB2 pumps are fairly expensive compared to a 6.2 pump right? Thanks for postin that Jerry but I think I'm just gonna rebuild a 6.2 since I have so many parts and am tired of constantly fixing an old ****ty motor. I am planning on getting my injectors and pump rebuilt by Kennedy diesel, they come prety well recomended on CK5.

Aren't high volume oil pumps intended to be used with "racing bearings" that have more clearance than normal ones and thus require more oil to be pumped through them? Do you have a part number for that pump you mention?

[Reckless]

When ya get ready, give me a ring and I'll help.

[bburris]

I don't know if you realize this, but after it's all said and done and you've spent all that money on it... It's still a GM 6.2L diesel.

Just making sure you realize that... :flipoff2:

[AgDieseler]

A 6.2 pump is a DB2...the electronic DS4 ones are the expensive type. High volume pump is just a bonus from later year 6.5s.

Now, if you'll excuse me, I have to get back to lurking.

[eight]

So you can put the 6.2 pump on the 6.5? Is that the same one the 93s used?

[AgDieseler]

I think yes, and yes. A 93 used a mechanical DB2 pump, just like all the 6.2s from previous years, but this one flowed a lot more fuel.

[eight]

So, how much hp can the 6.2 pump support?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

6, maybe 7

[DRAGOONRANCH]

oops, forgot :flipoff3:

the reason I say this, I saw an uparmored hummer not be able to back up over a 4-5" curb today. They had to pull up and get a few foot running start at it....

[StevenAg03]

oops, forgot :flipoff3:

the reason I say this, I saw an uparmored hummer not be able to back up over a 4-5" curb today. They had to pull up and get a few foot running start at it....


thats why military hummers in the field are about to be extinct...id tell you what i know but i dont think the man would care for that much. we have two replacements...one for speed and one for grunt...the ones for speed will be removing afganistanian resistance some time soon :gigem: think bad ass rockcrawler/dune buggy...


EDIT: i can say this, oliver will be happy to know that the speed somes from a supercharged duramax or a regular turbo charged durmax...though the turbo is bigger...

[DRAGOONRANCH]

The end of the hummer has been along time coming, it was not designed for the duties it is taking on now and they have hell with them. The stryker is slowly creeping in here, they are great vehicles from what the guys tell me. The cougars and buffalos are also well respected vehicles here, they take a lickin and keep the passangers relatively safe.

[StevenAg03]

lets take this to your iraqi pictures thread...

[Sharpe]

I'm gonna go ahead and buy external tranny and engine oil coolers cause the built in ones in the factory radiator are a pain in the ass. I want ones that have mounting feet on them cause I dont really like the little plastic strips you poke throught the radiator and cooler, I know plenty of people use them and dont have any problems but they seem kinda janky to me. The mounting feet issue keeps my options prety limited as far as size goes, so I'm not too worried about that.

The only decision left is whether to go with stacked plate type coolers or tube and fin type. I like the stacked plate better because of durability but I have heard that they can have a problem with air bubbles getting trapped in them, which is bad juju for the tranny and engine. Here are a few that I like and are decent price-wise;

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRM%2D101&N=700+4294924500+4294839034+4294888847+4294906639+ 115&autoview=sku

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM%2D70266&N=700+4294924500+4294839034+4294888847+4294906639+ 115&autoview=sku

I like this one cause it comes with baller A/N stuff that would look way out of place on pigpen but its prety damn expensive.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=28959&parentCategoryId=10535

[jerryg79]

Just FYI, if you and I should ever be in a face-to-face conversation and you use the term baller, I will punch you in the throat.

[mudtoy67]

Check out the oil coolers in older volvos. They are stacked plate design and supposedly can be found in junkyards somewhat easily. I saw it on Pirate not far back
here (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=516462) .

Next time I'm at the junkyard I'm gonna keep an eye out for one.

[Sharpe]

What kind of fittings do they have on them? I have a stacked plate external oil cooler off a chevy truck but it has some stupid metric o-ring fittings that you cannot get anywhere so its prety much useless to me.

[Reckless]

ya can get those at john deere, thats what we use on bulldozers

[mudtoy67]

What kind of fittings do they have on them? I have a stacked plate external oil cooler off a chevy truck but it has some stupid metric o-ring fittings that you cannot get anywhere so its prety much useless to me.

I'm not sure, I think they are oddball like british thread from what I saw in the link. They said you're supposed to cut the hoses and save the fittings, then get a hose maker to crimp them onto new hoses to make adapter hoses.

[Sharpe]

Yah I could do that with the chevy stuff but that kind of PITA is what I'm trying to avoid.

[Sharpe]

Well I got the rebuild kit and some other misc. stuff ordered tonight. Oliver, if you can get me a part # for that oil pump and a good place to get a new torque converter, I will touch your peepee or something equaly heinous. I looked on a couple of sites that I found over on CK5 for the converter but they were on the expensive side, a factory one would be fine with me. The stall ratio is 1600 so if anyone knows where to get one this low, lemme know. Thanks

[Reckless]

Ive got that instructor that does transmissions and custom torque converter, i think he wouldnt charge that much, ill ask next week

[agjohn02]

whats special about a diesel torque converter? whats expensive? should be under $100 for a knock-off brand 1600-2200 and ~$200-250 for a b&m or tci with 1200-1500 stall.

[fbronco86]

Just FYI, if you and I should ever be in a face-to-face conversation and you use the term baller, I will punch you in the throat.

I think we should punch him in the throat for good measure.

[tigweld]

whats special about a diesel torque converter? whats expensive? should be under $100 for a knock-off brand 1600-2200 and ~$200-250 for a b&m or tci with 1200-1500 stall.

diesel converters are much tighter, stall is all dependant on torque output and rpm range. higher torque=higher stall. that is why two different motor's same converter will result in two different stall speeds, flash speeds, and even top end slippage. torque converters are not so cut and dry as many people make them out to be, they can make or break how fast or how well a a car moves.

[Sharpe]

Well I was browsing pirate and it looks like DD Machine is going to stop making the 241 doubler I want after the current stock runs out so I might plop down some scratch on one of those while they are still available. I need to sell some more ****, anyone need a kidney or testicle?

[Sharpe]

The Kennedy diesel rebuilt injection pump is $475 and the Napa rebuilt pump is $431, each price is after the core charge. Is the Kennedy version worth the extra money? A set of injectors from Kennedy is $280 and from napa is WAY more so I deffinately know where I'm getting the injectors.

[AgDieseler]

Try Tim at www.AccurateDiesel.com - muy bueno prices, and awesome work. He made my custom DB2-4911 for 1/2 of what Kennedy was asking...very baller. :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

Dang a set of injectors from Accurate is only $148! I couldnt find a price for the pump rebuild on the site but I'll call him later, I'm sure it'll be hella cheaper. I owe you a case of beer for all the help Oliver, thanks.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I like this one cause it comes with baller A/N stuff that would look way out of place on pigpen but its prety damn expensive.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=28959&parentCategoryId=10535

Hey cracka, if ya gonna get kicked in the gonads then atleast get it right. It's balla. :rolleyes:

[Sharpe]

Well I got Pigpen's old motor taken out and disassembled yesterday. It has two cracked pistons, with one missing a small chunk out of the top of it :laughing: (good call Oliver). In addition to that the tops of a few other pistons were all dinged up from god knows what and I'm assuming the walls in those particular clinders will be ****ed up too. I'm probably going to end up using the rotating assembly from the motor Ed's brother brought me, it had a bit of water in a couple of cylinders and some rust but hopefully no pitting.

After I get the block all cleaned up, I need to decide which set of heads I'm going to use. I will use the lower performance ones for now, and rebuild the better ones to put on later. I have been doing some browsing over on the diesel page and have gotten learn't on which heads are better for what. I'll get some pics and post em up later.

[Sharpe]

Well today me and Ryan finished disassembling the "new" motor and we are deffinately going to use it. One cylinder has a bit of surface rust on it but the rest of the motor is actually in excelent shape. We cleaned the **** out of it today and will do the honing and begin reassembly tomorow.

The "old" motor turned out to have 3 cracked pistons, here's some pics of the shatyness.

[Sharpe]

A few more. You know its actually prety impressive that this thing ran at all with how F'd up it was inside.

[CheapJeep]

Ditto man. I have a new found respect for 6.2's, I'm really surprised it held up to all that.

[agjohn02]

so you are assuming hydro-locking it didnt crack any of the pistons?

[Sharpe]

I was never hydrolocked. When it died at Alto there was no water in the cylinders, I took all the glowplugs out and cranked it over to check. I think the water that caused the rust in the cylinders came from when I was hosing the mud off the truck. I wasnt really concerned about the motor at that point so I was just spraying the **** out of everything in the engine compartment.

[uglyota]

Sounds to me like it's time for you to learn how to rebuild a motor.
:flipoff2:

[AgDieseler]

If water were in the cylinder, the rod would have bent before the piston cracked. Cracked pistons in 6.2s are generally due to high and/or concentrated EGTs - like running the crap out of it, or a bad spray pattern on an injector.

There are two kinds of heads - 6.2 and 6.5. Within that there are some variations of mounting points for accessories, but not much more. The primary difference is the angle of the injectors, and the prechambers that came in the head. Either head can run any injector, and accepts all prechambers.

I recommend 6.5TD injectors (short body) on your regular 6.2L heads (just bend the injector lines to fit) with the small economy prechamber (probably what is already in the head). That will give you a good, clean burn and will work very well with a turbo.

[Sharpe]

From what I read on the diesel page it sounded like for power I wanted the larger prechambers from later 6.5s. They sacrificed the better fuel economy of the smaller prechambers in order to produce more power but this is pigpen so mileage aint no concern. As of right now it looks like I'm going to have to get the block bored out .020 because of cylinder wear. I was hoping to avoid this due to the extra expense, are there any cheaper options?

[agjohn02]

dingleberries

[sasquatch]

dingleberries

nice constructive input

[agjohn02]

nice constructive input


it is. search newb. i know grayson has said it.

[Sharpe]

Are you refering to a bottle brush? If so, how would that help worn cylinder walls?

[mudtoy67]

Are you refering to a bottle brush? If so, how would that help worn cylinder walls?

http://www.nolansupply.com/lgimages/11200050.jpg

By the way, don't try and google the word dingleberry thinking you're going to find pictures of hones...:laughing: :eek:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

http://www.nolansupply.com/lgimages/11200050.jpg

By the way, don't try and google the word dingleberry thinking you're going to find pictures of hoes...:laughing: :eek:

what???

[agjohn02]

By the way, don't try and google the word dingleberry thinking you're going to find pictures of hones...:laughing: :eek:


:laughing:

[AgDieseler]

From what I read on the diesel page it sounded like for power I wanted the larger prechambers from later 6.5s. They sacrificed the better fuel economy of the smaller prechambers in order to produce more power but this is pigpen so mileage aint no concern.
The bigger prechambers are better for high end power. Since you'll spend most of you time between idle and 1500, and the smaller prechambers are probably a better candidate since their smaller displacement actually produces better low end torque. I have the big prechambers, and they're nice for anything ~1800 and over when I'm making 10+ psi. If you're looking to shore up the budget, don't waste money on bigger prechambers - reuse what you have as long as they're not badly cracked.

[Sharpe]

Ok cool. Among the smaller pre-chambers, which are the best ones? IIRC correctly, of the two sets of a heads I have in the garage, one has the single square dot chambers and the other has 2 square dots. I'll need to check and see what I have back at my shop but those are the 2 "useable" sets I have laying around.

[AgDieseler]

The single dot pre-cups were originally used in light-duty 6.2L applications from 1982-90, while the pre-cups with 2 dots were originally used in heavy-duty 6.2L applications from 1986-90.

1 Dot PN: 23500082
2 Dot PN: 23500250

I'd say pick the set that is in better shape, and purchase 4 to match for the other head.

[Sharpe]

My radiator got stolen, which bring this motor build to a screeching halt. There's no way in hell I can afford a new radiator after the motor build so I won't be wheeling in Clayton. I'm still up to tow someone though, check the Clayton thread.

I started my boatsiding today, it looks prety piomp.

[Reckless]

who in the hell would steal your radiator?

[CheapJeep]

The same guy who stole his bike... :flipoff2:

[Reckless]

His bike had a 6.2 also???? :gigem: :flipoff2:

[agjohn02]

check the scrap yard

[Doug Krebs]

who in the hell would steal your radiator?

Someone wanting to recycle it. If I have any metal laying in our driveway (which is all the time) I have people that stop by and ask me if they can have it at least once a month. I'm pretty sure they would just take it if I didn't live on such a busy street.

[Doug Krebs]

now that I think of it I know I used to have a 6.2 radiator. I'm not sure if I gave it to the guy that bought that craptastic blazer I had. If I knew it was at the property I'd just give it to you. I'm about 75% sure I gave it to the guy. :(

[sasquatch]

couldn't you substitute a different(cheaper) radiator to work? it will be cold outside in clayton

[Sharpe]

6.2 radiators are fawking huge (biggest one GM makes) and a smaller one would probably be fine in Clayton but the 6.2 ones have 1 3/4" hose necks and big and small blocks have 1 1/2".

[sasquatch]

hose clamps will take up the slack, and take the hood off if its still getting hot

[Reckless]

but you are not putting that much of a load onto that engine, so prob a smaller radatior will work, i might be able to find ya one if i look hard enough

[73bronco]

if you get really desperate you can borrow the one out of the bronco, i wont be going to clayton and its already out cuz of the motor swap

[agjohn02]

ive got a couple of z28 radiators. ill let you have one for scrap price if you want it.

[Sharpe]

Got the boatsiding on the driver's side mostly done. Sliders are 3x6 1/4 wall and the frame runners are 2" 1/4 wall tube. I have one more runner to make and then patch up the floor before moving on to the other side.

[CRaSHnBuRN]

you need bigger tires

[73bronco]

i'm not sure thats heavy enough

[BMFScout]

We checked it out Sunday when we were trying to find you guys to buy beanies. Looks cool. I want to do something like that to the Belle.

[JeepPhisherman]

I thought boatsides were more angled, like a boat's side to slide off rocks.

Anyway, you think that tubing to frame connection will stand up to a good hit, or are you going to gusset it up some.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Did you weld the cab to the 3x6? I was wondering if you were going to try to seal it back up with some sheetmetal, or if you were not putting doors back on and just not going to worry about it. You may regret the holes there if you hit any mud again, ask me how I know.... :gigem:

[eight]

Yea this is more of just higher clearance rock rails. How much clearance under the rocker did you gain (lose?) from this?

[Sharpe]

Yah its not very extreme as far as "boatsiding" goes but I gained about 10" of clearance, and to go any higher would have required alot more work. Yes, the cab is welded directly to the 3x6. The holes between the floor and 3x6 will be filled with sheetmetal donated from my old hood. I am not worried about the durability of my welds. I chamfered the ends of the tube, cleaned everything off to bare metal, and set my miller 210 on 5. Unless a chunk is ripped out of the frame, they aint goin anywhere.

I agree, I need bigger tires. Much...bigger...tires.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I see the fenders and hood missing, is there some tube in pigpens future? I am leaning more towards the truggy every day. Seeing the room and access you have with that stuff out of the way is a big selling point for me.

[Sharpe]

Fenders and hood are off because of motor swap and they are getting replaced with unsmashed ones too. There will be some tubage later but I cant afford it right now.

[CheapJeep]

53" XML's?

[Sharpe]

I may have found a radiator...

[sasquatch]

I may have found a radiator...

im going to kick you in the nuts if you don't bring your shat to clayton.

[Sharpe]

Oliver, do you know where I can get the fel-pro head bolt kit and if it is reusable? How bout the ARP kit?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

im going to kick you in the nuts if you don't bring your shat to clayton.

x2 :gigem:

[AgDieseler]

Oliver, do you know where I can get the fel-pro head bolt kit and if it is reusable? How bout the ARP kit?
I think I actually purchased both from O'Reilly - decent price at the time.

[Sharpe]

Got the last frame runner made this weekend, now I just have to patch up the floor. I also got the new core support cut down for the narrowing, but I didnt get around to cutting the hood yet. I like the expanded steel, it gives it kind of a mad max look.

[uglyota]

expanded metal does look cool...I hope you have plans for how it's gonna work with the headlights :p

[agjohn02]

I like the expanded steel, it gives it kind of a mad max look.


as if it didnt already have that going for it

[AggieTJ2007]

sure are some crappy looking welds, but I guess it goes with the whole pigpen thing

[agjohn02]

not everybody has professional training

[AggieTJ2007]

just ask ill show you how to weld

[JeepPhisherman]

just ask ill show you how to weld

i could use some lessons. you should see my grinder stand...
looks like a squirrel had a case of the ass-pee every where i tried to weld

[Sharpe]

Crappy? I consider them prety damn good for having to do it upside down with molten metal dripping on me. What pics are close enough for you to even see them anyway?

[mudtoy67]

:flipoff2:

[agjohn02]

nice, but it needs a crazy out of control mop top hanging out of the cap.

[uglyota]

Robert you should know better than to post pictures of welds before they're chipped, ground and painted. And Creighton if Robert was your landlord I bet he would have evicted you for that comment :D

[RCcola55]

they actually look good in person, i was impressed

[agjohn02]

i think it'll look cool when it gets it nosed pinched. you should dove some bed skins on there just to give it symmetry.

[Sharpe]

Well I got the new engine crossmember made today. Many thanks go out to Frick for letting me have some bushings since I set mine on fire yesterday cutting my old cross member apart. The new one will allow my front suspension to have ~3" more uptravel and will not hit the pumpkin or spring plates when the suspension compresses. I had to weld it in since I mounted everything inside the frame, but I am happy enough with how it came out I doubt I'll ever have to change it.

[RCcola55]

is that pink???

[savvyaggie]

Hey, I think those are my bushings!!!!

[Sharpe]

Its red metal primer and yes they were your bushings Jordan.

[stx4wheeler]

yeah its cool just make sure i get some back asap, im only lacking on thing for my antiwrap bar.

[sasquatch]

4wd would be more useful than an antiwrap bar

[stx4wheeler]

and yes dick fawk when me and ryan get time we are gonna set them.

[tigweld]

I would add another gusset from the square tubing to the top of the frame to keep from twisting the bottom lip of the rail.

[RCcola55]

can we throw one of the old 6.2 blocks in the pond since cook wouldnt let me chunk the alternator?

[BMFScout]

They do it in the ocean all the time. Make it a big production and call it an "artificial reef"

[sasquatch]

that alternator is still in the garage. shot put it into the pond

[Sharpe]

Hell no the blocks are still good. The cracked pistons from my old motor however...

[RCcola55]

They do it in the ocean all the time. Make it a big production and call it an "artificial reef"


thats the was the plan...

[RCcola55]

They do it in the ocean all the time. Make it a big production and call it an "artificial reef"


thats the was the plan... :gigem:

[Sharpe]

Does anyone know what the maximum legal wattage for low and high beam headlights are in Texas? I need to figure out what I'm gonna do about headlights, cause the 55 watt hella 550's aint cuttin it.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I would think as long as you can have a "dim" light setting, then the max would not be too much of an issue. As long as you can turn on some dims that dont sear the retinas of oncoming drivers. :gigem:

[Sharpe]

Well I know for a fact that the high beam maximum wattage is around 100 watts, which is why all those fancy 130 and 150 watt lights made by KC and Hella are not legal for street use. Anyone know where I can find this info on the TxDOT site?

[Doug Krebs]

Well I know for a fact that the high beam maximum wattage is around 100 watts, which is why all those fancy 130 and 150 watt lights made by KC and Hella are not legal for street use. Anyone know where I can find this info on the TxDOT site?

Have you checked into better refectors or a different type of bulb that is more efficient?

[Sharpe]

Well seeing as how I'm not running factory headlights at all I figured it would be easier to just get different aftermarket ones.

[Doug Krebs]

Well seeing as how I'm not running factory headlights at all I figured it would be easier to just get different aftermarket ones.

Ahh ok... what are you wanting brighter lights for? If you're running a trail at night, only the leader needs to see, anyone else that has bright lights just becomes annoying to the person that is in front of them.

The only places for me that really bright lights have come in handy was llano. Not only was it wide open, it was nice to see what was in the water in front of you. How ever, a q-beam was much better as you could aim it.

I'd suggest 2 KC's or some other kinda of beams, and then something that is bright, but a flood instead of a beam. In addition, a powerful handheld.

Edit: Maybe this is what you are trying to do?

[CheapJeep]

I'm pretty sure he wants to have lights that are within Texas law limits so he can have it street legal?

I used to have the same Hella 55's before the housings cracked then I went to Pro Comp 150's. When I had them on at night driving on the road I'd always piss people off.

[RCcola55]

dick cepek makes a light that is 210watts

http://extremesuspensions.com/lighting/lighting_index.htm

[Sharpe]

Ok, to make this clear, I want STREET LEGAL HIGH AND LOW BEAMS. The hella's are not even bright enough to be used as low beams on the street, which is my main concern. I know I need a flood type for the low beams, but I'm not sure on the maximum wattage the state allows for low beams.

[eight]

Hella black majic 55 watt. Outshine 4 55 watt procomps by quite a lot.

[sasquatch]

i heard somewhere that it was no more than 65 watts

[TxCruzr]

http://www.roundeyes.com/Off_Road_Lights-Chrome_Driving_Lamp_Kit_100_100W.html

[JeepPhisherman]

yeah, i was going to suggest round eyes. they're good guys, sponsor all of the boards. i bought some 55w hellas from them a few years ago and they handled everything well

[JeepPhisherman]

and just shoot him an email at sales@roundeyes.com and tell him what you're looking for. he may have some others than those posted above or may be able to point you in the right direction

[sasquatch]

I want STREET LEGAL HIGH AND LOW BEAMS.

couldn't you just use parts store headlights?

[Sharpe]

I just tore the TxDOT site apart because I have been sitting in my engi class for 2 hours waiting for my project to get tested and found absolutely nothing about headlight wattage. I will probably just use my crappy 55 watt hella 550's for now and get a set of the black magics when I have an extra $200 laying around. If I can pass inspection without them, which I'm prety sure I can, I wont bother with high beams at all.

[fbronco86]

I just tore the TxDOT site apart because I have been sitting in my engi class for 2 hours waiting for my project to get tested and found absolutely nothing about headlight wattage. I will probably just use my crappy 55 watt hella 550's for now and get a set of the black magics when I have an extra $200 laying around. If I can pass inspection without them, which I'm prety sure I can, I wont bother with high beams at all.

For real you dont have a grill for this truck in all your crap.

[Sharpe]

The factory headlights mount on the outside edges of the core support in little stamped in cups. I cut the outside of the coe support off for my narrowing and now there is no place to mount factory lights.

[Sharpe]

Got the mota set in place today, will start hooking chit up tomorow.