Pigpen

[Sharpe]

Why does GM hate me. On the new (to me) radiator I got, the oil coolre fittings are on the passenger side and the tranny cooler fittings are on the driver's side. WTF!?!?!? THE MOTHER****ING GODDAM ****SUCKING TRANNY COOLER FITTINGS ON THE TRANNY ARE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE AND THE OIL COOLER FITTINGS ON THE MOTOR ARE ON THE DRIVERS SIDE!!?!?!?!?

I got the motor in and everything hooked up. It wouldnt crank over today so I think my starter is bad, I'll change it out tomorow.

[texasxj]

sure the radiator is not backwards?

:laughing:

[Sharpe]

He runs.

Here's a few pics of the narrowing job on the front and some kustom stuff I did to the core support. See yall at 47 tomorow.

[eight]

You must have been trying to make it look that ugly. In that case, good job! :gigem:

[CRaSHnBuRN]

You must have been trying to make it look that ugly. In that case, good job! :gigem:

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

[CheapJeep]

It might look ugly but it does some badass burnouts with the new motor. :D

[CRaSHnBuRN]

You sure thats not just the motor smoking? :flipoff2:

[HULK-1]

It was indeed a very successful work day at the Dexter house

[eight]

That mean the scout's running?

[DirrrtyGirl]

I'll bet it wasn't that successfull of a day!!!! hehe...

[RCcola55]

The Scout Runs!!!

[CRaSHnBuRN]

so, whats the current count of running rigs sitting there at dexter? Has it finally passed the number of nonrunning rigs?

[Sharpe]

Yes, the tables have been turned.

Go F^&# yourself pollock.

[Doug Krebs]

Yes, the tables have been turned.

Go F^&# yourself pollock.


I'm impressed robert! Good job! I was seriously doubting that you'd get it together. Hopefully I'm as successful.

[HULK-1]

The scout does indeed run, it made my day yesterday :gigem:

[Sharpe]

I finaly got the second tail light bracket built and installed. I also worked on patching the floor up today from my boatsiding. Got it about halfway done. Once I finish then I get to start on the other side!

[colman]

worthless without pics, but glad to hear that you are making progress

[Sharpe]

Well today pigpen got insured by the little green gecko. Adding him to my current policy only raised my premium $200 a year. At college weekend I smashed the unsupported passenger side boatside in about 8" on the front end and buckled the dash in so badly I cant open the glove box right now. I should be able to pull it out with a truck easy enough though. I also destroyed my hood and hinges too.

[Doug Krebs]

Well today pigpen got insured by the little green gecko. Adding him to my current policy only raised my premium $200 a year. At college weekend I smashed the unsupported passenger side boatside in about 8" on the front end and buckled the dash in so badly I cant open the glove box right now. I should be able to pull it out with a truck easy enough though. I also destroyed my hood and hinges too.

Are you doing this for damage or just to be able to drive it legally?

[Sharpe]

Its the first step in my quest to make him street legal. I'm fixing to get the title from my mom and then all thats left is fix the blinkers, install horns and bam, it should pass inspection! I'm excited, I cant wait to see the looks on people's faces while I drive it around CS. Especially goin to my SO's place, she lives at Callaway Villas so I'm looking forward to horrifying frat boys and sorostitutes the most!

[DRAGOONRANCH]

That thing is going to sure turn some heads. Maybe even some stomachs. :gigem:

[TxCruzr]

Especially goin to my SO's place, she lives at Callaway Villas so I'm looking forward to horrifying frat boys and sorostitutes the most!

It's going to be towed within 5 minutes from that place :D

[J Cooper]

i couldnt find dannys scout thread so id figure id just post these pics here?

also did you guys take the 4 sets of bushings i had out of my front seat? they were not there and i saw 2 on the shelf... kinda need those back if so

[J Cooper]

oh almost forgot one :flipoff2:

[RCcola55]

damn, you didnt get a picture of my paintings.



nevermind, there is one of then on the tires.

[Sharpe]

Coop those bushings on the shelf are mine, I dont know what happened to yours.

[HULK-1]

Haley sitting in my tires cracks me up

[Sharpe]

Allright well its almost time to start thinking about finishing the motor build. I still need to decide which heads and precombustion chambers I'm going to use. Oliver, if I get you some casting #'s will you be able to tell me what the best ones to go with are? I have the different varieties to chose from right now as follows

1 set off a 88 J code that came in a 1 ton 4x4.
1 set off a 83 C code that came from god knows where
3 sets off of 84 CUCV's, all J code 1 ton 4x4's.

The two sets of J codes are in my garage but the C codes are still on the motor at my shop back home.

[Sharpe]

Also I've been looking into getting a tach but the options for a 6.2 are slim. I have heard of one variety where you glue a magnet to the harmonic balancer and a sensor to the block, but that seems a little janky to me. Well aparently Isspro makes tach's that are driven off of either the alternator or the oil pump drive. I couldnt find the oil pump version on Isspro's site but its mentioned in an article on the diesel page.

Here's the alternator version
http://www.isspro.com/proddetail.php?prod=R85220

Here's another alternator driven one from Autometer
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?ref=search&gid=2602

[Sharpe]

Got the blinkers fixed so hes ready to be inspected. Just waiting on the title paperwork from mom now...

[agjohn02]

Got the blinkers fixed so hes ready to be inspected. Just waiting on the title paperwork from mom now...


if kopecki can find a place to inspect his jeep, you can too!

[Sharpe]

Title has been aquired and registration renewed, it was much less painless than I was expecting.

[colman]

now get it inspected so we can all poke fun of that thing as it drives around and act like we don't know you

[TexTJ209]

Holy crap I just saw Pigpen on the road. :gigem:

[AggieTJ2007]

what did you do for insurance?

[Sharpe]

Added to my normal policy with Geico. It was only another $100 a year for bare minimum liability coverage. But as far as they know pigpen is a 84 2wd 3/4 ton :flipoff2:

As those that were there saw I had some problems with my front axle at TCC. My driver's side front tire would not spin even with the hub locked. I figured the hub was not engaging for some reason but when I took it apart nothing was broken or otherwise messed up. My shafts are not broken either, which leaves the detroit. I bought the ***** brand new about 3 1/2 years ago. I've always heard that when detroits go they usually explode into a million pieces but when I drained my diff there werent any metal shavings or chunks. I am hesistant to take the carrier out b/c the gears were professionaly set up but I cant think of any other reason the wheel wasnt spinning. Anyone else have any ideas?

[agjohn02]

the hub wasnt put together correctly maybe. if you get the springs in the wrong place they wont engage. i would think the detroit would make some noise, not just mysteriously stop working.

[Doug Krebs]

why don't you take both hubs off and spin the yoke by hand and see if both shafts rotate? That would eliminate hub problems.

[fbronco86]

the hub wasnt put together correctly maybe. if you get the springs in the wrong place they wont engage. i would think the detroit would make some noise, not just mysteriously stop working.

I have to agree with john. I can not believe I agree with this tard but it happened to my milemarker hubs.

[Sharpe]

I'm getting a new set of hubs to put in so we'll see how that goes.

I finally RTI'd pigpen for the first time at TCC, I could have gone higher but I didnt feel like repositioning again.

[fbronco86]

damn that is ugly lookin

[BMFScout]

Ugly yes, but your rig is kind of like those margaritas Jerry brought to the river...non-existent!

[JB]

Whats wrong with it? I can almost see it from my garage, sitting in the Goody's parking lot.

[85cj7]

he told me last night, the starter had died down the road some time last weekend, he put a new one in it yesterday and drove it that far back to the dexter house before it died again, the positive battery cable melted to the exhaust pipe, and killed the battery. i'm sure robert can tell you more detail

[Sharpe]

Yup, starter died in post oak village apartments last weekend. Finaly got around to replacing it yesterday but positioned the battery cable poorly on the exhaust manifold so it melted through the insulation and killed everything. The battery took a charge and I got a new cable made so I'm gonna (hopefully...) go fix it tomorow and get it home.

[Sharpe]

Well something between the ignition switch and starter solenoid is ****ed so I just installed a jumper wire from the solenoid to the battery with a momentary push button. I'm prety sure the battery is hosed. I bought a new one from napa so between that and the button, pigpen runs again! Canadian...yes deffinately. There's a bunch of little **** that needs to be addressed before he's ready to wheel, but I'm gonna get as much as I can done this weekend and hopefully make a trip up to Gilmer before Clayton.

[Sharpe]

I am in the process of relocating the batteries to behind the passenger seat and need some electrical assistance. I am planning on running the battery cables through the floor at the back of the cab and then up the frame rail to the firewall, where I will have a single post junction block where I can hook up power to the starter, winch and all accesories. I have been googling looking for junction blocks and have found a few but am wondering about their ratings. Most say rated for 250 amps, but with two batteries I will have about 1500 CCA. How much power does a starter actually draw? Will the rating even be an issue if the cable ends are stacked on top of each other on the post (so power goes from terminal to terminal as opposed to terminal-post-terminal)? This is the best looking one I've found so far, mostly because it has a 1/2" diameter post where most others have 3/8" posts, it doesnt have a rating though.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/1-2juncblock.jpg
It can be seen here
http://www.wiringproducts.com/index1.html

Also, what are y'all's thoughts on how to go through the sheetmetal of the cab? Is one of the dual sided terminals (as pictured below) that much better than a plain hole with a grommet? I will probably be using 2/0 cable to the junction block and 1/0 to the starter.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/2_stud_junction_block_big.jpg

I am also planning on having a battery kill switch mounted in the cab where I can reach it from the driver's seat, but I havent found one I like yet.

Then, onto the grounding situation. Is it absolutely neccesary to ground the batteries to the motor or would I be ok with a suitably heavy frame ground with the motor acceptably grounded as well? What about the winch ground? I have always heard you arent supposed to ground a winch's negative cable but I dont know why. I know this is alot of questions and I may ask on pirate too. Thanks

[Seth]

hmmmm, are you here? I'll go see.

[BroncoJo]

Grounding to the frame and having the motor grounded to the frame works, just make sure you have good grounds.

The other stuff is personal prefernce I guess. I would just run the wire through a hole. I also don't see how you would burn up a 1/2" post so I wouldn't worry about the rating.

[redcagepatrol]

why??? Too much work and money for that rig... :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

why??? Too much work and money for that rig... :flipoff2:
Hater :flipoff2: There's a bunch of prety trivial reasons, the best of which is my effort to improve the overall look of the vehicle by adding tube work and inner (maybe even outer!?!?) fenders to the front. Looks like I'm goin to pirate.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

looks like you have what you need to do a good job, use a grommet though, that through-cab terminal prolly won't like winhing annd many hard starts. The 2/0 will be plenty big for what your doing. x2 on engine ground

[Sharpe]

I really want to get new tires before Clayton, so I need to get on it now. I have 5 8-bolt hummer rims that I am going to wrap with 40's, either IROK's or TSL's. I'm leaning towards TSL's at the moment though, cause everyone and their mother has 40" IROK's. I was originally planning on running the rims unmodified with dually hubs on the front and spacers on the rear, but steel 4" spacers would cost around $200. So now I think I'm going to recenter my rims instead. I need to find a place to get all the normal parts; centers, studs, nuts and o-rings. I think I'm going to order the o-rings and nuts from USA 6x6 because most people get them with no problems, but I've heard too many mixed reviews about their centers. I havent been able to find new studs available anywhere. My search of pirate revealed that most people have just used a wheel stud, which I may end up doing if I cant find the correct ones.

Now, whats the best way to go cutting the old centers out? Clarke told me John Brown had the cardoc guys use a plasma to do it. Did it come out clean enough to not worry about turning on a lathe? I'm not worried about welding the centers in myself, me and my MM210 can handle it. For outer rim and stud protection I have the aTm rings that Ed got for me from the Copperhead Fab guy in Lubbock. They will be sandblasted and painted my standard silver and black.

[redcagepatrol]

get the new Mud Terrains - you have a credit card right? They make 40's, there just $600ea... :eek:

[Eckert]

if your still wondering about junction blocks. the rating isnt dependant on the block or stud, but on the ring terminal and wire gauge. they are $9 a piece at academy in the marine section.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I have a set of 6x6 centers at the house that I will not be using. Drop me a note if you need em. (I may have promised them to somebody else, so if I did will that person please let me know. I have traveled way to far to remember **** like that. :flipoff3: )

[Sharpe]

Well I spent all my momeny on gun stuff for now so I wont be able to get the tires before Clayton, but I wouldnt have had time to do all the wheel work anyway.

Anyhow, 11 months later I finally finished the sliders yesterday. While I was welding in the last floor panel, Robbie thought it would be funny to spray the back side of my weld with brake cleaner. It made a big fireball. Asshat.

Pigpen's ready for Clayton!

[bburris]

While I was welding in the last floor panel, Robbie thought it would be funny to spray the back side of my weld with brake cleaner. It made a big fireball. Asshat.

That close to losing her to a fire... Whew.

:flipoff2:

[CheapJeep]

My bad...

[Sharpe]

Well I spent ~3 hours and $70 trying to sand blast my wheels yesterday. 70 lbs of aluminum oxide got me about halfway through one wheel. Does anyone know of a local place that will sandblast 5 wheels for a decent price? The paint on those mofo's is THICK and tough as ****. Steel grit would probably have been a better media choice but between the time it would take to do all 5 wheels and the cost of the media, I am going to take em somewhere.

[uglyota]

several years ago I was quoted $20/ea for Vilas to blast wheels. That expensive media is a waste unless you are using it in a cabinet where it can be recovered

[agjohn02]

Well I spent ~3 hours and $70 trying to sand blast my wheels yesterday. 70 lbs of aluminum oxide got me about halfway through one wheel. Does anyone know of a local place that will sandblast 5 wheels for a decent price? The paint on those mofo's is THICK and tough as ****. Steel grit would probably have been a better media choice but between the time it would take to do all 5 wheels and the cost of the media, I am going to take em somewhere.


i had all five of my H1's done at texas truck riggins for ~$75 i think. probably cheaper for four one piece wheels.

[RCcola55]

can you not strip the paint then blast it smooth

[Sharpe]

I tried using a twisted wire cup on a grinder, that took longer than blasting. They are going to Texas Truck Riggins tomorow.

[Doug Krebs]

I tried using a twisted wire cup on a grinder, that took longer than blasting. They are going to Texas Truck Riggins tomorow.

I think clarke meant with paint stripper

[bburris]

I remember Blake tried to use a wire wheel on his H2 wheels and got about 10 minutes and 12 coats of paint into it. Then he just shot some fresh black paint on them and called it done.

Apparently the military just sprays a fresh coat on them when they start to look a little faded/worn out.

[agjohn02]

Apparently the military just sprays a fresh coat on them when they start to look a little faded/worn out.

this must be true. the paint was way too thick on mine to even think about stripping with a wire wheel. well, actually i did think about it. even tried in it a small spot.

[colman]

let me know how much you get them done for. i have a set of 4 that i need done as well at the recenters i got, they are rusty and need to be cleaned up as well

[JB]

I had mine sandblasted (maybe it was some other media). Took the guy maybe 20 minutes for 4. Friend of a friend that has a blaster for oil rigs or something. Free 99

[davido]

I must be missing something. Why bother? Just rough them up with a scotch pad or wire brush and cake on the Rustoleum. If you strip them down I think you're just going to have more rust issues in the future. I'm not positive that you're talking about H1 wheels, but it also probably doesn't matter. I've never had to repaint mine and they still look pretty good. No rust. I probably did 2 or 3 thick coats. Sucks that you've already wasted that money.

[agjohn02]

I must be missing something. Why bother? Just rough them up with a scotch pad or wire brush and cake on the Rustoleum. If you strip them down I think you're just going to have more rust issues in the future. I'm not positive that you're talking about H1 wheels, but it also probably doesn't matter. I've never had to repaint mine and they still look pretty good. No rust. I probably did 2 or 3 thick coats. Sucks that you've already wasted that money.


i stripped mine originally so i could weld on them. if you are going to recenter and add rock rings, the paint definately needs to come off. if you plan on putting a powder coat or good looking paint finish on them, they need to be stripped. the black paint on mine was so thick and runny, it looked like dried tar.

if your not going to weld on them, lets be honest here, they dont need to look good to go on pigpen.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Sharpe, are you sure your SB is working right? Seems it would work alot faster than that. What size are you using and what kind of compressor are you using to run it?

[bburris]

I must be missing something. Why bother? Just rough them up with a scotch pad or wire brush and cake on the Rustoleum. If you strip them down I think you're just going to have more rust issues in the future. I'm not positive that you're talking about H1 wheels, but it also probably doesn't matter. I've never had to repaint mine and they still look pretty good. No rust. I probably did 2 or 3 thick coats. Sucks that you've already wasted that money.
You also skimped on painting most of the Cruiser when the body was off the frame because "no one is going to see it." :flipoff2:

[RCcola55]

coat them in aircraft paint stripper (in the blue can) and let it sit for an hour or two, the paint will melt off

[Sharpe]

I dropped em off at Texas Truck Riggins this morning. They are getting recentered and are having rock rings welded on so I wanted them to be squeeky clean for the welding. I am also going to paint them and want them to *pop*.

Ed, there is nothing really wrong with my blaster. I was using Cook's 30 gallon compressor that pushes 7 or 8 CFM and it just wasnt enough. I easily spent twice as much time waiting for the compressor to fill up than I did actually blasting. That and the fact that I was doing the blasting in a field across the street from Cook's house so I couldnt reuse my media made me decide to pay to get them done.

[davido]

Welding on them = Makes sense

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. It should dress up that poop bucket. :)

[Seth]

Sharpe, we should have had a late night project up here at the shop using shop air.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I dropped em off at Texas Truck Riggins this morning. They are getting recentered and are having rock rings welded on so I wanted them to be squeeky clean for the welding. I am also going to paint them and want them to *pop*.

Ed, there is nothing really wrong with my blaster. I was using Cook's 30 gallon compressor that pushes 7 or 8 CFM and it just wasnt enough. I easily spent twice as much time waiting for the compressor to fill up than I did actually blasting. That and the fact that I was doing the blasting in a field across the street from Cook's house so I couldnt reuse my media made me decide to pay to get them done.

I kind of figured that was the problem, as the paint on my rims while it was thick was not super strong and came off decently w/ a wirewheel and some paintstripper. I only had time to mess w/ one, and the wheel had a hard time getting in the creases, so to TTR mine will go too. :)

[Sharpe]

Is anyone coming from Houston to CS anytime soon? I am fixing to order my tires from 4WP and shipping to my door is $90. If they can be picked up at a retail store then its fo frizzle. I can compensate with beer or sausage (both kinds).

[jerryg79]

I work about a mile from there (the one on 1960) i can grab them and meet you halfway to cs....should still save you 60-70 bucks.

[jerryg79]

I think karl may be headed up there in feb, i can get them to him if he's willing to try to meet up with you.

[colman]

either brian or myself will be coming back from the west side (gessner 4wp) one of the next 2 weekends with a trailer. how quick ahead of time do you need to tell them so the tires will be there. it will probable be next weekend not this one

[Sharpe]

I am wanting to get them before we go to Trees in Feb. Jerry, find out if/when Karl's coming por favor and LMK. Otherwise, next weekend will work Colman.

[jerryg79]

I am wanting to get them before we go to Trees in Feb. Jerry, find out if/when Karl's coming por favor and LMK. Otherwise, next weekend will work Colman.

i believe he is coming up there Feb 2nd for his niece/nephew's bday, i am unaware of his timeline and if he will be able to meet up.

[BroncoJo]

I am heading down there friday and will be back sunday and I have to drive past the one on 610.

[bcolman]

i will be there this weekend and also the weekend of feb 9th, if you get them from the gessner 4wp then i can pick them up for you, its like 5 minutes from my house in houston. what tire did you end up choosing? (also what size?)

[jerryg79]

like i said, i also have no qualms with picking them up and meeting you in nastysota on a tues, thurs, or fri evening.

figure out what works best for you and let us know.

[Sharpe]

Got the tires ordered from 4WP. Went with 40" TSL's. Since I am using their interest free financing I have to go pick them up in person at the 1960 store to show proof of ID and sign some ****. Oh well, whats half a day driving there and back anyway...

[Eckert]

Got the tires ordered from 4WP. Went with 40" TSL's. Since I am using their interest free financing I have to go pick them up in person at the 1960 store to show proof of ID and sign some ****. Oh well, whats half a day driving there and back anyway...

what store is that? with your truck(given the half day comment) that about 500 in fuel :flipoff2:

[jerryg79]

Assuming its the one at 45 and kuykendahl, i highly suggest exiting Louetta off 45, and cutting over to 1960 on kuykendahl. It avoids approx 10,873 lights and saves probably a half hour.

[Sharpe]

what store is that? with your truck(given the half day comment) that about 500 in fuel :flipoff2:

Think they'll fit in a ford escape? :laughing:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

no, but you could probably strap'em to the top, just take pics and post on pbb. :D

[Reckless]

2 inside, 2 on the roof or find a single axle utility trailer.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

just get em to crank on the torsion bars, mount them and drive em home. !!!!!!!111!!!!one!!1!!!

[TxCruzr]

I'm right down the street from that 4wp store 2 days a week, to bad they want you to prove ID or I could bring them back for you.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Sharpe, what is the measurement of the outside to outside of the frame on the front of pigpen. I am looking for a radiator and need to know what dimensions to hold to.

[Sharpe]

Transmission case cracked on the way to the highway cleanup today. I got sprayed with ATF through the shifter hole in the floor. I wont be wheelin again for awhile...

[Sharpe]

So I'm considering jumping off the diesel bandwagon. I'm prety sure the vibration from pigpen's motor is what cracked the tranny case and I'm prety much tired of not being able to hear over my engine on the trail. From what I've seen on eGhey, I can get either a fully equiped 5.3, or a 7.4 exactly like the one in my crewcab with about the same mileage for about the same price. There is much more aftermarket support for the 5.3 from what I've seen but out of the box, 5.3's average about 360 ft lbs. stock and my 7.4 is rated at 411 ft. lbs. Then there's the 6.0's to think about. A little more powerful but a bit more pricey.

Then there's the tranny situation. Obviously the one TH400 I have is ****ed beyond repair now. I have another TH400 at my shop that needs a rebuild, but now I'm a little shy of using an aluminum cased automatic. Which brings me to the SM465, my only doubts are the initial cost because I dont have anything relating to it already, and the issues associated with adding a doubler later.

Ideas/opinions/suggestions/ etc?

[uglyota]

uhhhh...you ARE the diesel bandwagon :flipoff2:

sucks about your tranny, do you have something hardmounted that caused it to crack?

[Eckert]

http://houston.craigslist.org/pts/568745997.html

[DRAGOONRANCH]

So I'm considering jumping off the diesel bandwagon. I'm prety sure the vibration from pigpen's motor is what cracked the tranny case and I'm prety much tired of not being able to hear over my engine on the trail. From what I've seen on eGhey, I can get either a fully equiped 5.3, or a 7.4 exactly like the one in my crewcab with about the same mileage for about the same price. There is much more aftermarket support for the 5.3 from what I've seen but out of the box, 5.3's average about 360 ft lbs. stock and my 7.4 is rated at 411 ft. lbs. Then there's the 6.0's to think about. A little more powerful but a bit more pricey.

Then there's the tranny situation. Obviously the one TH400 I have is ****ed beyond repair now. I have another TH400 at my shop that needs a rebuild, but now I'm a little shy of using an aluminum cased automatic. Which brings me to the SM465, my only doubts are the initial cost because I dont have anything relating to it already, and the issues associated with adding a doubler later.

Ideas/opinions/suggestions/ etc?

While I understand your situation, Pigpen not having a diesel under the hood would be as wrong as two boys ****in. I mean, it just aint right. Find a 6.5 turbo and a 4l60/4l80 and keep wheelin.

In all reality, 6.0 or 454 w/ a sm465 behind it and 203/205 doubler. My choice would be 454 w/ da pane (just because I don't want to catch the FI gheyness :flipoff2: fred ). The 454/465 will be easy to source parts for atleast.

[colman]

junior has a 454 that he will sell that had 20k on a rebuild i think

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I should have went 454 right off the bat, but had somebody talk me out of it. :(

[william_ace]

I should have went 454 right off the bat, but had somebody talk me out of it. :(

good thing about engines is they can be changed out fairly easily :) get to it!

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Let me get the cage and everything else finished up (so I have some protection when I get jiggy wit da skinny pedal). I wonder if how the propane works along w/ a blower. Yippeeeee, robbie, I am gonna smoke that stoker in the sand drags....

[texasxj]

Ive still got that 6.2 one ton over here.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

good thing about engines is they can be changed out fairly easily :) get to it!

plus I need to research what its going to take to mount the zf6 to it:gigem:

[sasquatch]

Transmission case cracked on the way to the highway cleanup today. I got sprayed with ATF through the shifter hole in the floor. I wont be wheelin again for awhile...

that sucks. was wondering why you didnt show up at 47

[Sharpe]

454's are for pussies.

[KrazyKarl02]

8.1's are for people that love broken axles shafts....

[jerryg79]

once again you have doubled the value of your truck:flipoff2:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Where did you get it, what did you pay for it and what tranny are you going to use???

Inquiring minds want to know. :gigem:

[colman]

at least it is a vortec

[robertf03]

at least it is a vortec

:confused: weren't they all?

[colman]

no not all chevy motors were vortec. thanks for playing. there were tbi and the almighty carb to. mpi...

[robertf03]

I thought you were talking about 8.1 being a "vortec"

You should write a book with all that knowledge

[CheapJeep]

Nice, 8.1's kickass. Dad's suburban (now the ranch vehicle) has the original 8.1 with 300k+ miles on it, still running strong.

I guess this means we'll be having a sand drag rematch...

[Sharpe]

Where did you get it, what did you pay for it and what tranny are you going to use???

Inquiring minds want to know. :gigem:

Seth's friend from Fort Worth, $1100, th400.


I guess this means we'll be having a sand drag rematch...
You will get ****ing 0wn3d.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Seth's friend from Fort Worth, $1100, th400.


You will get ****ing 0wn3d.


Was this a one time deal, or is there a semi-steady supply there? I am in no hurry, just wondering.

[Seth]

One time deal. He had it in a 54 belair, pulled it to put in a pontiac 389 (I think)

[Seth]

http://www.murraykustomrods.com/1954belairdrivetrain.html

his webpage sucks, but he's a good guy.

[jerryg79]

no not all chevy motors were vortec. thanks for playing. there were tbi and the almighty carb to. mpi...

damn flem you got owned!;)

[BMFScout]

damn flem you got owned!;)

I know! I can't believe you didn't know that in '55 they didn't call it a vortec! Man, you sure have a thing or two to learn about engines Flem!! :flipoff2:

[jerryg79]

I know! I can't believe you didn't know that in '55 they didn't call it a vortec! Man, you sure have a thing or two to learn about engines Flem!! :flipoff2:

just an fyi, gm also made 4 cylinders and 6 cylinders Flem, before you make some other uneducated comment.

[TMatheaus]

454's are for pussies.

but dont you have one in your dd, so does that make you one then :flipoff2:

now your trail rig is gonna have a bigger motor than your tow rig

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I understood what he was tryin to get at, maybe I speak the colemanese too well??? :flipoff3:

[TMatheaus]

just an fyi, gm also made 4 cylinders and 6 cylinders Flem, before you make some other uneducated comment.

and a 1.0L 3cyl in the metro

[robertf03]

I know! I can't believe you didn't know that in '55 they didn't call it a vortec! Man, you sure have a thing or two to learn about engines Flem!! :flipoff2:

No kidding, I was watching Saving Private Ryan the other day, I could have sworn I saw "vortec" on the tappet cover of those cckw's. Screw me.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

but dont you have one in your dd, so does that make you one then :flipoff2:

now your trail rig is gonna have a bigger motor than your tow rig

It used to be an underpowered pile of ****, now it's going to be an overpowered pile of ****. ;)

[uglyota]

you should put the good motor in your DD and put the 454 in the pile :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

I'm looking for parts to rebuild a th400 to put behind this ***** and I dont even know where to start.

[robertf03]

I thought you said there was a vortec 4l80e in the mix, no?


It looks like your vortec 8.1 has the vortec electronic throttle control, hooking up a vortec kickdown cable might get interesting on this setup if you stick with the vortec th400.

[Eckert]

vortec th400.

what year is that?:flipoff2:

[jerryg79]

I thought you said there was a vortec 4l80e in the mix, no?


It looks like your vortec 8.1 has the vortec electronic throttle control, hooking up a vortec kickdown cable might get interesting on this setup if you stick with the vortec th400.

haha:D

[robertf03]

82

actually its a throttle switch right? you could probably rig something now that I think about it

[Sharpe]

Nah no tranny came with it. I will be using a cable actuated throttle body.

[Eckert]

problem is...

[Fredo]

where are you getting a cable actuated throttle body for an 8100? I thought they were all drive by wire?

I guess the marine 8100's may be a cable TB. I've never really looked at the TB, is it the same pattern as an LS1?

[Sharpe]

Rumor has it an 80mm TB from a LS1 will fit it. This on specifically

http://www.lmperformance.com/16411/1.html

[robertf03]

Rumor has it an 80mm TB from a LS1 will fit it. This on specifically

http://www.lmperformance.com/16411/1.html

That might fit, but the throttle control module and the ECM talk to each other on serial lines. if you did away with the motor you would still need to use the module so the ECM can see what the throttle position sensor is doing, and there would be no idle air control. Without some computer tinkering that won't work.

[agjohn02]

http://www.mastmotorsports.com/Gen3_LSkits_main.php

[Sharpe]

Well I just located another working take-out TH400 (#4 for the truck since I've owned it :laughing:) so that will save me a little coin for the time being. I PM'd X-Rated on pirate (only other person I've found thats running an 8.1) to see what he had to do to run the 8100 with a TH400. It looks like I "just" need to send the harness off to Howell, the puter to Westers and get a cable actuated TB then I'll be golden. I'm not possitive about the TB part so I asked him about it in the PM.

[Reckless]

I have a vortec 4l80E for sale with a 241

[Reckless]

I'm looking for parts to rebuild a th400 to put behind this ***** and I dont even know where to start.

Talk to John Goebel out of Waco. This man is a genus with trans and he was my instructor at tstc. He dynos and custom machines parts for almost any auto trans. From ford to allison. He can even get trans parts cryoed. He builds custon torque converters and trans brakes.

Goebel Transmissions
(254) 875-2054
(877) 312-2649

Just tell him a former student sent ya, Tommy Smith

[redcagepatrol]

http://www.mastmotorsports.com/Gen3_LSkits_main.php

I didn't know where they were till I drove past them the other day outside of Lufkin - at least I think that's where I saw them

[Sharpe]

Well it seems everyone on pirate recomends Jim's performance for the harness and puter work, and keeping the electronic TB.

One other thing I'd like to get done in the very near future is a panhard bar. Since I have the 56" springs in the front and 7" un-supported shackles, my steering on the street wanders horribly. Its not really noticable on the trail but then again, I might just not notice it. Making new shackles with thicker bolt hole areas and braces would be a good start, but the bushings would still flex alot and allow wandering. Is there a right or wrong way of figuring out where the mounts should go and how long it should be? I'm gonna go dig around CK5 to see what I can find.

[sasquatch]

make shackles like mine. use polyurethane bushings. i had little to no wandering with ryans tires with hydro assist. they are simple to build. pic was before i boxed it

are you studying for leathams class?

[redcagepatrol]

I used FIS in San Antonio:
my cost was something like this:
Fuel Injection Specialties Harness Mod $487.13
Fuel Injection Specialties Computor reprogram $324.75
Fuel Injection Specialties Walbro Fuel pump $221.91
Fuel Injection Specialties Pump mounting hardware $11.85
A1 Electronics Spal 16" pull curved fan 1 $124.95
A1 Electronics Spal 195 degree controller 1 $44.95
Garys Truck Salvage starter 1 $54.13
Street and Performance Air Cleaner 1 $210.95
Street and Performance 5 pin MAF ($140 core)
Street and Performance 5 pin MAF adapter 1 $35.95
Street and Performance shaved AL 5.3 idler pulley $78.95
Chevy Dealer header gaskets 2 $12.99
Advance Adapters GEN III headers 1 $250.00
low profile oil pan GM perfrormance parts 1 $200.00
low profile pickup GM perfrormance parts 1 $20.00
oil level stick GM perfrormance parts 1 $10.00
O'Reilly Auto Parts oil filter 1 $5.99
O'Reilly Auto Parts engine belt 1 $47.99
O'Reilly Auto Parts engine oil 5 $15.64
A Pickup Parts GM 5.3 Engine - complete 1 $850.00
Four Wheel Parts Alum. Radiator 1 $399.99
$$$ in fuel hose and AN fittings

I just pulled a few items off my list that were associated with the engine

[Sharpe]

Cook, to use shackles like that I would have to move my rear spring hangers which would **** up my pinion angle which would require me to lower my front hangers which would increase my ride height which I dont want to do. Hydro assist helps with wandering but I dont have enough skrilla for that right now. Studyin half assedly at work.

Thanks for posting that list Scott, reminded me about a bunch of little **** I forgot.

[robertf03]

Have you thought about buying software for the computer instead of sending out the computer for tuning? It's a little more than the tuning according to Scott's list, but being able to change things on your own like fan on-off temps and whatever else comes up in the future would be nice.

http://www.jetchip.com/products.asp?pid=24300&make=22&model=494#494

there is a demo on their page that you can download to see what things can be modified

[Reckless]

You can do the same with EFI live. With any obdII chevy computer, you can change all aspects on the fly. The duramax tuners swear by them. You can also buy more licences for each computer

www.efilive.com

[robertf03]

With any obdII chevy computer, you can change all aspects on the fly.

no you can't, not without expensive hardware that involves dissecting the computer.

[Reckless]

no you can't, not without expensive hardware that involves dissecting the computer.


Supported OBDII Vehicles
Vehicles supported by the EFILive Tuning Tool

EFILive is constantly updating and improving the calibrations available for tuning your LS1/LS6 and compatible PCMs.


I stand corrected.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

no you can't, not without expensive hardware that involves dissecting the computer.

Maybe he shouldn't have said "all", but there is a bunch that can be 'tuned' with the new EFILive hardware. It accepts SD cards which you can keep different tunes on and available. The EFILive guys are more geared towards the Duramax tuning, but they also have a few non-oilburner options. :gigem:

[robertf03]

I was refering to the "on the fly" comment
none are realtime without additional hardware

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I was refering to the "on the fly" comment
none are realtime without additional hardware

I see. EFI is supposed to be coming out with the capability of switching between two tunes 'on the fly'. I haven't read on it in a while, so i don't know when it is supposed to be available. It is supposed to be this year though.

[agjohn02]

nacogdoches

[Sharpe]

Flem, that software is tits but a custom tune from Jim's is $200 vs. $500 for the software. Since I dont plan on making any engine changes in the near future I'll probably just go with the tune. Jim's is $300 for the harness.

After looking around CK5 I got the low down on making a simple panhard bar. Where's the best place to get spherical rod ends and threaded bungs? What size ends should I get? Is 1.5" .188wall HREW heavy enough to use in this application?

[robertf03]

You'll be fine with that wall thickness, especially since its supplemental.

I estimate 20,000 lbs max load, but I'm new to this and am probably doing it wrong.

[redcagepatrol]

nacogdoches

I knew that I drove past it someplace in EAST Texas... I am actually at the Holiday Inn Express in Jasper tonight. It sucks in Jasper... Although, I paid the $5 "membership" fee at the Ramada bar and had a few drinks with my co-worker and his girlfriend.:gigem:

I've been making the trip to Rustin / West Monroe LA too often lately and have been driving thru Nachogdoches to notice the shop:rolleyes:

[redcagepatrol]

You'll be fine with that wall thickness, especially since its supplemental.

I estimate 20,000 lbs max load, but I'm new to this and am probably doing it wrong.

but you will have to grind out the inside weld seam to get the insert in.

[sasquatch]

or notch the insert. assuming you use a 3/4 heim with .188 wall there is plenty of meat

[scottsdale87]

www.qscomponents.com

This is where I got my track bar "panhard bar" ends from. I think I went through ebay.

[uglyota]

Sharpe you probably already figured it out but I think the panhard guidelines are that it should have the same geometry as your drag link (length and parallel) and they should both be as flat as possible (parallel with the ground). I'd put a poly bushing on the bottom end and a joint (heim/johnny joint/whatever) at the other

[Sharpe]

I was just going to use fairly inexpensive heims at both ends. Is 5/8" big enough or should I go 3/4?

Thanks for the link Matt, here's the ends from there
http://www.qscomponents.com/58mr.html
$7 each, nice.

Their bungs arent the right ID for the tube I want to use though (already have it).

[uglyota]

one bushing and one bigger, better heim should be much quieter and more robust

[RCcola55]

i agree with the hippie

[Sharpe]

Bushing on frame or axle end?

[uglyota]

I'd put the heim at the frame just to keep it out of the way, but I don't think it matters and you may have more room for it at the axle end

[Seth]

this is pigpen, is noise a huge concern?

[Sharpe]

Who said anything about noise?

[william_ace]

thats what i was wondering

[agjohn02]

hippie

[Seth]

one bushing and one bigger, better heim should be much quieter and more robust

eric did

[uglyota]

Who said anything about noise?

I did. Friends don't let friends use cheap heims

edit: damn not everybody at once! And Ryan agreed with me :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

Whats a "decent" rod end cost? Thoughts on rebuildable ones?

[uglyota]

'bout $40
http://polyperformance.com/shop/RSMX-High-Strength-Heavy-Duty-Shank-p-14.html
rebuildable would probably be way overkill for this application

[RCcola55]

busing on axle, 3/4" QA1 hiem at the frame

[DRAGOONRANCH]

this is pigpen, is noise a huge concern?

He has a VORTEC 8.1 now, remember. ;)

[Sharpe]

Does anyone know where I can find a 3/4-16 threaded insert with a 1.25" OD? All the 3/4 inserts I have found through the usual vendors have 1" OD's and I have a bunch of 1.5" .120 wall tube and I was wanting to use it for my panhard.

If not, does anyone local have some 1.25" .120 wall they'd sell me a few feet of?

[TexTJ209]

Did you try www.ballisticfabrication.com ?

[Sharpe]

Did you try www.ballisticfabrication.com ?

No, but they have exactly what I need. Thanks!

[TexTJ209]

No, but they have exactly what I need. Thanks!

Sweet. No problem.

[JeepPhisherman]

Bookmark that site. They're one of the best fab supply shops on the web.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Bookmark that site. They're one of the best fab supply shops on the web.

x2

[Sharpe]

Thoughts on these radiators? I like the idea of not having to use those ghetto poke-through-the-fins things to hang coolers and fans.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Flex-a-lite/757983/10002/-1/10597

[AggieTJ2007]

look nice

[DRAGOONRANCH]

That is the one I plan on picking up for the cheby. Plus w/ it having adjustable tabs, it should be easier to mount in the tube work upfront.They are a lot of dough @ ~$750 though, but I think it's worth it for the bolt and go application. The new fan control module from flexalite is now set up with a temp bung that screws into a pipe that is inserted in the radiator hose. It does away with the "ghetto poke-through-the-fins" temp sender.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I just looked at the bottom of the page you linked, and am pretty sure that the $440 price tag is only the aluminum radiator and tabs, the cooler and fans won't come with it at that price.

[Sharpe]

Yah I figured as much. I already have coolers and fans so I aint skeered.

[Sharpe]

Pulled the engine, tranny and t-case today. Here's the crack in the tranny. It was more of a hairline crack but the 205 hangin off the end of the tranny while pulling everything opened it up a little more.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/krack001.jpg

Next we have my FUBAR'd rear driveshaft, which is probably the culprit of the tranny crackage. I noticed some vibration while driving out to 47 and I guess it was the d-shaft. It apparently made whoopy with a crossmember that I thought was far enough away from it to not worry about.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/krack002.jpg

[Sharpe]

Anyone know where to get a clocking ring for a np205? Google didnt turn up much and all the clokcing rings for round pattern cases like 231, 208 and 241 say they wont work with a 205.

[jerryg79]

http://www.rockdog4x4.com/products.php - there page shows one.

BDR posted a link on pirate for 1 but the link is dead.

[Sharpe]

Rockdogs is for a figure 8 pattern 205 I need the later round pattern.

[Sharpe]

T-case clocking issue has been solved! A D300 ring will work with a few mods.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8304796#post8304796

[robertf03]

cheapish, and should easily feed that engine.

http://www.boschfuelpumps.com/

specs:
http://www.beekautoracing.nl/img/fuelpumps.pdf

factory bracket:
http://www.brucatosvs.com/store_components.html

[Sharpe]

I was planning on getting a rear sump fuel cell and running AN lines and fittings but I have since decided to just go with good ol' fashioned rubber hose and keep my current S10 gas tank.

[Sharpe]

I am hoping to get the t-case put back together and in this weekend and get a t-case crossmember built. I am sticking with a factory rubber t-case mount but I want the absolute flattest belly possible. I will figure out the front driveshaft clearance and other issues later but what I am trying to figure out right now is how to mount it to the frame. My previous one went under and up the side of the frame to have 2 1/2" bolts in shear on the sides and 2 1/2" bolts getting pulled on, on each side. Prety excessive strength-wise and lost me ~3" of ground clearance.

My first idea would be the easiest and is actually how the factory crossmember attaches, but I am concerned about overall strength due to the new engine and general sever use. Black is my frame rails, red is the crossmember and green is the orientation of the bolts. I'm probably being overly critical but what do yall think? There would be two 1/2" G8 bolts per side.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/option1.jpg

Second idea would be a little more work, but not much. Grey is metal that would be welded in. The inside of the verticle piece would be left open for the red t-case crossmember to slide up into. With this orientation it seems like the load would be better distributed to the bottom and sides of the frame and the bolts are in shear, which is mo betta.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/option2.jpg

Thoughts?

[AggieTJ2007]

i like the second design, looks mo stronger plus you can then mount a skid plate below the crossmember

[uglyota]

another vote for second one. Much mo betta. Hardmount that dude to the crossmember since the attachment bushings will be taking up the impact, maybe use runners of 1" pipe going forward from the tcase up to an oilpan crossmember to turn it into a cradle setup and mount the front of the cradle the same way, engine hardmounted to cradle.

[agjohn02]

how is the bolts in shear set-up "mo betta" than the bolts in tension set-up?

your first set-up seems to be my favorite as i have done it that way in three crossmember builds.

does your transmission weight 80,000 lbs?

[mudtoy67]

I'd have to say look into the first one as well. A lot of people are building them these days like this by integrating the skid plate and crossmember. This spreads the load on your frame over a larger area and can be just as strong.

I'd like to do something similar to this...

[DRAGOONRANCH]

x2 on #2

[Sharpe]

With much help from Rowdy I got the engine in place for good and the tranny crossmember started. I ended up having to clearance the top edge of each frame rail about 1/2" to clear the exhaust manifolds. I was hoping to avoid having to do that but meh, oh well. Then we got the motor mounts bolted up, my old crossmember fits this motor perfectly. I got the transfer case put back together enough to put it in, comeplete with kustomized dana 300 clocking ring as shown. I actually could have clocked it up a few degrees higher but I have read about oiling issues with clocked 205's and I didnt need any more clearance so I used the middle threaded holes on the ring. My engine oil pan hangs lower than the case.

As you can see, I hacked the **** out of my floor. It looked like **** anyway from the various mis-measured shifter holes I have cut and I wouldnt be able to raise my t-case up high enough with the stock floor so out it came. I will probably make something similar to Cox's tranny cover (although a little more rushed with less attention to detail :flipoff2:) that is removeable for servicing.

The crossmember came out way simple. I am thinking I will need to incoporate a skitplate into it somehow. A full belly skid would be nice, we'll see what I can come up with. If you have any ideas lets hear em. The crossmember is not done, the part where the mount bolts to will receive more bracing and the above mentioned skidplate(s) will be added.

[rockfrawg]

that looks like david-o's floor pan

:flipoff2:

[RCcola55]

needs some gussets

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Dis' ***** gonna be fawesome!!! :gigem:

[agjohn02]

if you're concerned about the bottom of the c-channel frame bending where the crossmember attaches, you can add gussets to the inside in front and behind your mounts.

[CheapJeep]

Looks good back together. Your drivers side bolts are in upside down...

Just wondering. Instead of using angle and attaching it to the bottom of the C channel, why not cut/weld the square tube so that it "bends" upward on each side then add square plates to each end so that it can be bolted flat against the inside vertical of the C channel? That might pose t-case yoke clearance issues and take away some mounting options for a flat skid.

[Sharpe]

If I did that I wouldnt be able to drop the crossmember.

[mudtoy67]

Looks good. Gonna add some bolt head protection? Maybe some 3/8 or 1/2 plate with holes cut for the bolt heads to pass through?

[CheapJeep]

Ah yes that would make sense... The minute details.:D

[Sharpe]

Looks good. Gonna add some bolt head protection? Maybe some 3/8 or 1/2 plate with holes cut for the bolt heads to pass through?

Yup. I have some 3/8" laying around but no 1/2".

[Sharpe]

Need a fuel pump. I would like to stick to a factory application inline pump but am having toruble finding one that will flow enough fuel. People with the 8.1 and Ford E2000 pumps have mentioned starvation issues at high RPM, is there a high flowing similar unit?

[BMFScout]

Suck it up and go bling...

http://www.barrygrant.com/bgfuel/

[Reckless]

look at the holly blue pumps.

[robertf03]

look at those bosch pumps a few posts ago
http://www.tamor.org/forums/showpost.php?p=191885&postcount=771

Bosch 0 580 254 044 Inline Fuel Pump

[BroncoJo]

I don't think a holley blue can build enough presure for FI but if it can I have a never used one laying around somewhere.

[agjohn02]

Need a fuel pump. I would like to stick to a factory application inline pump but am having toruble finding one that will flow enough fuel. People with the 8.1 and Ford E2000 pumps have mentioned starvation issues at high RPM, is there a high flowing similar unit?

yeah, its a ford 8124 or something similar.

[StevenAg03]

I don't think a holley blue can build enough presure for FI but if it can I have a never used one laying around somewhere.

i have one on my truck in addition to the factory one. i have it turned down some, but my truck has a constant 16psi. i thnk normal operation pressure for a stand alone holley blue is ~15psi

[Sharpe]

Flem that Bosch pump looks like it will work. Only problem is finding it localy. I am trying to get everything from O'reillys cause they are generally easier to find than Napa but I will get it from Napa if I can.

Rowdy, the holley blue makes about 1/4 of the pressure I need...

[73bronco]

I've got the ford pump on mine, seems to do fine. That said I haven't put it through much of a test with the new motor

[Sharpe]

Just got a Airtex pump from O'reillys that has the same specs as that Bosch unit. Its part number is E8248, I think its from a Ford application but not sure. Google searching didnt help finding more info on it, but did show me I got a kickass price on it.

[agjohn02]

Just got a Airtex pump from O'reillys that has the same specs as that Bosch unit. Its part number is E8248, I think its from a Ford application but not sure. Google searching didnt help finding more info on it, but did show me I got a kickass price on it.

i think that's the one i was talking about. search pirate for that number.

[Sharpe]

Building a new floor has been kicking my ass. I got the shifters done yesterday and started on the floor. Due to how high I clocked the case, I had to move the shift point on the shifter levers to above the pivot instead of below like the stock arangment. All this did was reverse my shift pattern but thats no biggie. I made them so the levers were vertical while in neutral to make it easy to tell what range each was in.

Here's all the bracketry and **** I had to build.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/shifter2.jpg

Shifters both in neutral.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/shifters1.jpg

Shifters both in low.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/shifters4.jpg

Shifters both in high.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/shifter3.jpg

Also, I went ahead and reinstalled my High Angle rear yoke and e-brake so I can make sure the floor clears them. Hopefully I can actually get the e-brake hooked up soon.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/e-brake.jpg

And this is as far as I got on the floor.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/flo.jpg

I'm planning on making two seperate sections of the floor, one over the tranny and the other over the t-case. Each will be removable individually and will be "framed" with 3/8" square rod and filled in with 16 gauge. Yes, it will be excessively heavy as **** but I dont have any way to bend the sheet acurately and this was the thinnest sheet we could find at Mac.

[bburris]

Did you make the shifters out of rebar?

[william_ace]

looks like it

[Sharpe]

The lever portion is rebar and the pivot area is 3/8 x 1 1/2. The rebar will be topped off with giant nut shift knobs. Nothing but the best for Pigpen.

[robertf03]

http://www.cemeterysurplus.com/catalog/items/item252.htm

[mudtoy67]

http://www.cemeterysurplus.com/catalog/items/item252.htm


Ya....probably nsfw

[DRAGOONRANCH]

are you going to clear coat the shifters to keep them chiney?!!!

[Sharpe]

http://www.cemeterysurplus.com/catalog/items/item252.htm

You have that page bookmarked or something? Ed, they will be getting painted.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

looks like they are a pretty long throw right now, you plan on cutting them down any?

We have talked about extending the ones on the beast since the atlas is still hard to shift at times, but once they loosen up, they are just right.

[Sharpe]

No, at that height I can reach them from the driver's seat without leaning over.

[mudtoy67]

No, at that height I can reach them from the driver's seat without leaning over.

Even in high range? Is it just the picture, or are they almost under the dash in high?:confused2

[sasquatch]

Did you make the shifters out of rebar?

courtesy of the repave of park place st.

[uglyota]

I paid for rebar once. I also died a little that day, like the first time I paid for a 2x4. :(

[Sharpe]

Exhaust, 2 1/2" coming off colectors to single 4" sound good? Where to find 4" in/out non-diesel muffler?

[bburris]

I don't know what the inlet is but the exhaust on the Brune's suburban is a Magnaflow with a single 4" outlet.

[sasquatch]

4" sounds a little excessive but it is a giant ass motor

[Seth]

flip some shorty's and shoot that sh!t through the hood!

[sasquatch]

make thick ass lake pipes so you can drag them

[AggieTJ2007]

dude this thing is going to rock

[TMatheaus]

here lazy ass http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294923429+4294922711+42949227 10+4294891681+4294788252+115+4294788220

[Eckert]

where is the pic of the king liter engine bolted up in the truck?

[Fredo]

This muffler:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MPE%2D14153&N=700+4294923429+4294922711+4294922710+115&autoview=sku

With this behind it if you have the room:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WLK%2D24217&N=700+4294923429+4294922711+4294922710+115&autoview=sku

[Reckless]

i just put that magnaflow in the duramax when i got back to abilene. Quiet but when it burns out a bit, it will have a deeper tone. straight through so no restriction

[Sharpe]

This muffler:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MPE%2D14153&N=700+4294923429+4294922711+4294922710+115&autoview=sku

With this behind it if you have the room:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WLK%2D24217&N=700+4294923429+4294922711+4294922710+115&autoview=sku

Two mufflers?

[Fredo]

Yes. The second one is basically a glasspack anyway. Think of it as a "resonator"

[Sharpe]

What does the resonator do sound-wise? For the record, it will also have one of these.