Pigpen

[Fredo]

ah, so apparently you aren't worried about it being loud on the trail.

I was thinking you were wanting to keep trail noise down. The resonator should take a lot of the drumming bass out of the exhaust note.

[Sharpe]

I do want quiet on the trail and loud as **** for mud pits and annoying people driving around CS. I'll have to do some measuring to see if I have room for the resonator, if so I'll probably give it a shot. Thanks.

[BroncoJo]

I ran those dynomax mufflers in highschool and they were ear bleeding loud, I really couldn't tell much of a difference between them and straight 3in pipe.

even though being loud and pissing people off is fun, loud trail rigs suck. I know because I had one.

edit- i see your post now, do it.

[agjohn02]

my magnaflow on the scout is a straight through and is very quiet until you get on it. then it just sounds good, not loud.

[BMFScout]

Use the money you saved on those shifter handles for one of these... :flipoff2:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplayPopup?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&productId=759640&langId=-1&showValue=3

[Sharpe]

I was looking at the cable actuated ones and they look neat but they dont make them for 4" pipe. I am not comfortable with electric components mounted to my exhaust. Seems like the heat would kill the motor prety quick, regardless of how often its used.

[uglyota]

Who was that guy who made a set of dumps out of chain-link fence parts and lynch pins and put them on his daily driver? Those were choice!

[BMFScout]

My mom had dumps on her impala back in the sixties, 327 4-speed SS. It sat low enough Grandpa never found out.

[Seth]

Another reason I love Mama Brune. Make that 2 more reasons.

[agjohn02]

needs one of these

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=39494037

[TxCruzr]

I was looking at the cable actuated ones and they look neat but they dont make them for 4" pipe. I am not comfortable with electric components mounted to my exhaust. Seems like the heat would kill the motor prety quick, regardless of how often its used.

I originally had a cable operated one when I had the 350. After a while it got gunked up and would never shut all the way. Have an electric one on there now since I've had the 383 and it works a lot better. Granted it costs a ****load more too.

[Reckless]

Butterfly style electric dumps

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/QTEC/index.php

[JeepPhisherman]

Unleash the power

[Sharpe]

The Man got me down. :mad: Had to move Pigpen to the backyard today. I'll do as much as I can back there (fuel, wiring, etc.) and then roll him back out for all the world to see (in a few weeks)!

[73bronco]

I thought it was licensed and registered? Tell them to F#@$ off

[Sharpe]

It is but it has been inopperable since late Feb. which makes it a "junk vehicle." Word in the hood has it some old fag down the street has been complaining to the city about it and thats why I've been getting hastled. He must be bitter that hes old and gay and lives on such an awsome street.

[73bronco]

probably that damn hippy on the bike

[uglyota]

hey watch it :flipoff2:

[Reckless]

probably that damn hippy on the bike


hey watch it :flipoff2:

He said damn hippy, not damn dirty hippy:gigem:

[Seth]

has to be operational

[Seth]

sorry, missed the last few before posting up.

[Sharpe]

Trying to figure out what I need for the electronic pedal assembly is a *****. The parts guy from LaRoche chevy told me I needed the pedal assembly, TAC module and 4 different pigtails to kludge together for a grand total of $454.34. **** THAT. I will probably go to Doggett's tomorow morning and try to find a used one. The price on the module and pedal assembly werent too crazy but **** if I'm gonna spend $170 on wiring that *might* work.

[Sharpe]

I checked out eficonnection.com and they have the exact harness I need for $40. I'll try and find the pedal and TAC tomorow at Doggetts and probably order the harness.

[agjohn02]

check with these guys. they prolly have a few laying around.

http://www.mastmotorsports.com/

[Sharpe]

I got the pedal and a TAC module that I hope will work from Doggett's for $100. I havent been able to find any info on whether or not TAC modules are universal, so I'm not positive this one will do it. The pedal should work. The only problem was that it had a ~5" offset to the passenger side. It is easiest to mount the pedal where the factory one mounted on the firewall, but with the base of the electronic pedal mounted there, the pedal itself was on top of the tranny tunnel. To remedy this, I cut the bent portion out of the pedal shaft and welded in a straight piece. I actually had to angle it to the driver's side slightly in order to place it where the factory pedal was. Its all just tacked together right now, so if I can find a footprint pedal before its time to drive I will swap em out :gigem:

On to cooling issues. I am going to run a small block radiator and ironically enough, I dont have one. I want to use a SBC one so I can narrow my core support to the width of the frame to keep from bashing it any more. If I have to buy a new one, it will not have any coolers built in, to make it as cheap as possible. I will be running an externall tranny cooler sourced from a Ford esploder and am planning on blocking off the oil cooler lines. My thoughts on blocking the oil cooler lines off is that I wont be doing any towing, and high speed driving will be minimal so I dont really see the need for it. Plus that will eliminate a little clutter in the engine bay. An LS1 block off plate will work and is $5 from GM, yay.

Still workin on finishing the floor. I should have bought or made a press brake...

[AggieTJ2007]

how about this one http://corpuschristi.craigslist.org/tls/781931936.html

[davido]

I'd be interested in a brake. We'll need one soon for some bus work. Is anyone come up from there or does someone have one?

[colman]

ive got 2 big pieces of angle that could be made into a brake

[Sharpe]

David if you want to try to get that one I will be going down there for the next two weekends.

[AggieTJ2007]

im down here and will be up for the Miami game if yall are interested in it

[RCcola55]

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?cPath=6&osCsid=c31a4c7179ac053c7f6dfb8e926c3142


here asshole, do i need to wipe for you too?

[Sharpe]

Blankensh!t found some other website that had them cheaper like two weeks ago. You FAIL. Asshole.

[85cj7]

ha ha :p VICTORY.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=tp&Category_Code=SIL

i think this is the one.
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-SIL-045&Category_Code=SIL-STR

[Eckert]

why dont yall just yell down the hall way instead of showing yalls gay love on here?

[AggieTJ2007]

is this thing going to be done by clayton

[Fredo]

is this thing going to be done by clayton

Well? (I never saw or heard anything about the current status)

[Sharpe]

It is 90% done. It still needs exhaust (my biggest concern right now), intake and some electrical.

For the intake, my original plan was to run a 90 degree exhaust elbow off the throttle body, then another 90 degree elbownext to the motor to have the filter chillin over the passenger side valve cover, all connected with silicone hose sleeves. The bend radius on the exhaust elbow ended up being too big and it didnt even come close to fitting under the hood or between the radiator. I have a silicone 90 with a much tighter bend being overnighted, should get it tomorow. Hope it fits. I would just run a short fat filter like Lynda's jeep but on the 8.1 the throttle body is angled up and my radiator is much closer to the front of my motor, so there's no room for something like that. Plus I need to stick a MAF sensor in there somewhere.

Exhaust will be done at the Rusty Muffler in Bryan. Hope they have a decent turn around time, dont really have any other options right now.

Electrical, just need to finish re-doing tail lights and electric fans, then loom and ziptie everything up. Hopefully I can get that done tonight after work.

Right now the motor is turning over easily and sounds good, but wont start. Flem and Robbie helped me check fuel (got sprayed in the face by ~75 PSI gas on the rail, yup...its good to go) and spark, both of which were there. The fuel pump relay was clicking on and off really quickly for some reason when the key was on, but not when cranking. The injectors were also not firing.

We finaly narrowed it down to the Throttle Actuator Control module. Its a little black box that plugs in between the electronic pedal assembly and the computer. My motor didnt come with one and I was not able to figure out whether they were a universal application or not through online searching. I got one from Doggets when I got my pedal but I dont know what kind of motor the truck it came out of had. With the current one unplugged, the fuel pump relay stopped clicking and the injectors started firing, but it still wouldnt start. Flem dumped about a quart of gas down the throttle body and after almost blowing Blankenships hand off, the muthafuka actually started. It ran rough as hell but it has no O2 sensors, MAF, or a funtional accelorator pdeal right now. With no pedal I couldnt rev the sh!t out of it, which took away a little bit of the satisfaction of it actually firing up. This all happened today but after it fired up initially and we figured out the problem, I had to go to work. I spent almost 45 minutes on the phone trying to track the right TAC module down. That damn thing costs $200 from GM and I wouldnt be able to get it until Thursday morning, not gonna work. Luckily Chris at the University O'reilly's found one for me in Houston and it should be here by noon tomorow.

I also lost all the pieces to connect my Art Carr shifter to the trans but called them this morning and am having them overnight the kit so I damn well better get that tomorow as well.

Its getting there!

[bcolman]

Exhaust will be done at the Rusty Muffler in Bryan. Hope they have a decent turn around time, dont really have any other options right now.

i got mine done at macalister and sons in bryan, i dropped it off noon one day and they had it done by noon the next day, and the price wasnt to bad

[JB]

Rusty did mine in a couple hours.

[davido]

Agreed, Rusty is quick, especially if you tell him the timeline.

[Sharpe]

Oh yah my front driveshaft is prety much ****ed. The CV at the t-case output is almost maxed out sitting at ride height. I'm probably going to end up running a limiting chain on that side to keep droop to 1-2." Sucks, but it WILL blow up the CV if I dont. My 1310 pinion angle also sucks. Basically, the front driveshaft is expected to blow the **** up eventually. I have a few spare shafts in the back yard and am going to try to whip up a spare square tube shaft before we leave, but at the very least I will bring the materials so I can construct it on site if neccesary. I think I'll try grinding the corners off one of the factory CV's I have and see if that helps. I'm not holding out much hope though.

I have a 1350 CV shaft that looks identical to my High Angle rear one but I cant use it without getting High Angle's proprietary output flange. And to use that flange, I have to swap the front output of my t-case out for a 32 spline Ford one, which I have at my shop back home. Clarke and I were discussing welding a kustom adapter plate onto my current output flange so I can use the 1350 CV for now but I'm not sure I like that idea.

[JB]

You have alot of **** to do in the next 2 days.

[RCcola55]

dont plan on being here before 2 as i will be napping

[Jackasic]

go to Rusty, best guy in town.

[Fredo]

Yikes....good luck to you sir. Kind of reminds me of when RJ was finishing up the power steering swap on the trailer in the campground in Las Cruces.

[Sharpe]

Got the TAC module replaced and

IT RUNS

Earth shatteringly loud at that. 496 cubid inches sure makes alot of noise :gigem:

Got it dropped off at Rusty's and I drove it straight off the trailer onto his lift. He said getting it done by tommorow would be no problem! Still lots left to do :laughing:

Driving it around the yard was an interesting experience in itself. Obscenely overpowered. The electronic pedal is prety sensative and it sits way too high, if I have time (unlikely) I might redo it. Not a high priority.

[uglyota]

overpowered

Take that back!

congrats :cheers:
don't break it too quickly

[Fredo]

Hell yeah! Congrats man!

[Doug Krebs]

One year, someone needs to be working on their vehicle while it's on the trailer.

[redcagepatrol]

I would just run a short fat filter like Lynda's jeep but on the 8.1 the throttle body is angled up and my radiator is much closer to the front of my motor, so there's no room for something like that. Plus I need to stick a MAF sensor in there somewhere.

Its getting there!

The MAF is in there and they have much smaller ones.
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/08%20catalog/08onlinecatalogMAIN.html
page 85

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I have some 8 degree aluminum shims I can bring down tomorrow evening if you need them.

[Fredo]

What muffler did you end up with for this?

[TMatheaus]

sweet, bout fawking time

[BMFScout]

Gooood....Gooood....

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b189/Nightmare333/Miscellaneous/FamilyGuy-Good20Good.gif

[Sharpe]

The MAF is in there and they have much smaller ones.
http://www.hotrodlane.cc/08%20catalog/08onlinecatalogMAIN.html
page 85Those are neat, didnt realize the MAF was there. I have a 90 degree silicone elbow in hand that fits very nicely in the available space so that ***** plus a 90 degree exhaust elbow will still allow me to put the filter where I originally wanted.


What muffler did you end up with for this?

The magnaflow yall used on the suburban. You held it and screamed into it to prove to me how well it works one night at my house before going so unconcious Flem couldnt wake you up and ended up leaving you there for the night. :laughing:


I have some 8 degree aluminum shims I can bring down tomorrow evening if you need them.

Already have shims in the front, there might be some cut and turning action after Clayton...

[Fredo]

The magnaflow yall used on the suburban. You held it and screamed into it to prove to me how well it works one night at my house before going so unconcious Flem couldnt wake you up and ended up leaving you there for the night. :laughing:

Ah yes, that's all coming back to me now.

[Fredo]

Those are neat, didnt realize the MAF was there. I have a 90 degree silicone elbow in hand that fits very nicely in the available space so that ***** plus a 90 degree exhaust elbow will still allow me to put the filter where I originally wanted.





Something like this?

[Sharpe]

Yup more or less.

[85cj7]

http://s406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/?action=view&current=100_2422.flv

[85cj7]

http://s406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/?action=view&current=100_2423.flv

[jerryg79]

no smoky burnout pics? Weak!

[Sharpe]

Had to get it to the exhaust shop ASAP. Maybe tomorow.

[FJAggie07]

I like the bumping the trailer move...

[Seth]

This was my first truck. Its an 84 Chevy C20 (2wd 3/4 ton). I blew up the 350 that was in it when I was 16 so its been sitting in my shop for a couple years. A few months ago I got the crazy idea to convert it to 4x4. I tore all the 2wd suspension off the front and started drilling holes, then got tired of it. I didnt touch it for about 6 months but became interested again during the break, mostly because I need to get it out of the way so I can get project cheapjeep in there. Anyway I decided to go balls to the wall and put the current 56" rear springs in the front, and a set of 63" ones in the rear. I have all the brackets from a 4x4 but some of them didnt fit so I'm having to do a little fab work for everything to go together. I'm gonna throw a 6.2L diesel I have in there for its low end torque and water-proofness :D and put the D60, 14 bolt and tires from the Burban on it. As usual, I'm aiming to spend as little as possible on it and si far I have $20 in bolts invested. Here's pics.

:gigem:

[robertf03]

I'd still like to find a wiring diagram for an 8.1 and see what is different in the TAC module. Something so incompatible should not have the same harness connectors

[CheapJeep]

Congrat's man!

You ought to give Jesse a call after Clayton when you swap out the t-case output/yoke to check on the front d60 yoke High Angle makes. I got one from him and it has more ear to yoke clearance than stock. Might not have to cut and turn the knuckles that way.

[Sharpe]

I will be upgrayedding the front shaft immediately after Clayton. 32 spline Ford output, High Angle flange, kustom square tube shaft with 1350 CV and 1350 pinion yoke on the 60.

[Sharpe]

Made a new/spare front shaft tonight. Using another stock Chevy CV I ground on **** until I got another ~5 degrees of misalignment out of it. We'll see how well it holds up. I also used 2 1/2" 1/4 wall this time instead of 3/16 wall so it wont wobble around as much, just need to grind a groove into the male portion for the seam. I will also be bringing materials to build one extra shaft (for a total of three, can you tell I'm a bit concerned...) should the need arise.

[Jackasic]

congrats, post up a vid after a trip to Rusty's.

[BMFScout]

Even with open exhaust it's quieter than it was. 6.2's suck.

[Fredo]

I just got this text message from a 979 number...I think it was Seth.
"So pigpen sounds MEAN"

So I guess the exhaust is finished.

[Sharpe]

Yup Rusty did a KICK ASS job on it. I dropped it off yesterday at 3 and it was done today at 10, and its as good a job as I could have asked for. I will leave the cutout open until I get there so everyone can revel in the mating call of the 496 BBC. I need to get to work on it but it is ****ing snowing right now which is not helping in the motivation department.

[Seth]

Thanks for having my number programmed Fredo. That hurts.

[Fredo]

I've got some other number for you. When did you change it?

[KrazyKarl02]

8.1's are for people that love broken axles shafts....

Let us see if my prophecy will be fulfilled.

[Sharpe]

Just ordered shock towers from Varsity, my work discount is prety sick. Need to get rear shocks mounted and steering fixed/ straightened out to be ready for Gilmer :gigem:

[TexTJ209]

Just ordered shock towers from Varsity, my work discount is prety sick. Need to get rear shocks mounted and steering fixed/ straightened out to be ready for Gilmer :gigem:

Your work discount saved you $6. Not really that epic, but hey you can buy a cheeseburger.

Also, they wrote your credit card number on the receipt. Score! :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

$6 was 25% asshole!

Pigpen now has rear shocks for the first time in 3 1/2 years. They made doing burnouts a whole lot smoother.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Also, they wrote your credit card number on the receipt. Score! :flipoff2:

Schweet, pm it to me and I will see that it get's passed around like sharpe's sweet little ass. :D

[73bronco]

damn Ed, getting lonely over there in the sand box? Keep talking about everyone's sweet asses

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Why yes I am. Thanks for noticing, sweet cheeks! :D

[Sharpe]

Looking for ideas for a tube bed. There will be a full-width toolbox right behind the cab (probably the one that is currently in my crewcab). I am trying to decide between tapering it to the frame corners after the toolbox or leaving it full width to keep the rear tires covered. I like the idea of having them covered to keep from flingin **** at mach 2 at the back of the cab when the pedal meets the floor. I am liking the lines on Chris's taco bed with the parallel tubes running to the back but am also looking at other ideas on pirate. If yall have something you think would look "good" on Pigpen, post em up. Tomorow I will try to take some side and rear profile pics so we can make some MS paint doodle drawings of ideas.

[Seth]

I love ms paint doodle drawings!

[uglyota]

I thought I had a thread on ideas for my bed but can't find it. If you want to keep pigpen looking like uglytruck's fat ugly sister you could get some ideas from here:
http://tamor.us/members-rigs/mindfodder?page=2
:flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

Something like this is what I had in mind.

[FJAggie07]

I like it.

[Eckert]

i see flem has taught you well.

i know they are toyotas, but there is a ****load of ideas and pages to go through. figured it would give you something to do at work.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98472&highlight=flat+bed

[Sharpe]

Already seen it and yes the toyota peeps sure seem to have a hard on for tube beds.

[Eckert]

is there anything you dont know about on pirate?

[Sharpe]

The trailer park. No star for me.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

is there anything you dont know about on pirate?

I am quite sure he hasn't seen the thread where you professed your never ending love for hotpocket. I subscribed to that one and haven't seen him post in it yet. ;)

[robertf03]

this is more your style

[Sharpe]

Cute. Where the fawk did you find a receiver flat solid works file?

[robertf03]

its not solidworks, found dimensions on arfcom

[uglyota]

assume that's just the general idea and the finished product will have more crossmembers? Looks cool though, you sure you don't want to shorten your overhang? My gut says that those "b-pillar" corners will crush if you roll hard, but when I think about it more I think they are fine.

[Sharpe]

Rear overhang will be shortened a few inches before tubework is done. There will be a bit more bracing, but this is the general idea. I know the angled braces should be more verticle but they are not critical and will meet the frame brace at that joint.

[Doug Krebs]

Rear overhang will be shortened a few inches before tubework is done. There will be a bit more bracing, but this is the general idea. I know the angled braces should be more verticle but they are not critical and will meet the frame brace at that joint.

While looking for prices on my ORD shat, I came across a Klogger copy. I really like this bed though. I think it looks peemp.

http://offroaddesign.com/willard4.jpg

[RCcola55]

Flem, you figured out how to draw tube?

[Doug Krebs]

Flem, you figured out how to draw tube?

Draw a line and then sweep!

Or loft... whatever the cool kids call it.

[Sharpe]

switch to a big block, doesn't it fit right in?

Reading through cause I'm bored at work. St. John the prophet? :gigem:

[uglyota]

hey do you still have pictures from our trip to MS? Particularly one that shows my trailer clearly? (you know...since you're bored ;))

[Sharpe]

http://s135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/MS%20trip/

[uglyota]

sweet thanks
so you don't like the rear mini-hoop idea for your cage? Or are you looking for easy spare tire access?

[Sharpe]

What do you mean rear mini-hoop? I am planning on carrying a spare but I'm not that worried about it being easy to get to.

[uglyota]

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/mindfodder/untitled1_001.jpg
this is how I'm actually doing mine...

[Sharpe]

Meh, not diggin it. I like the parrallel bent bar corner like Chris's Taco.

[Sharpe]

So I'm thinking about my front end situation right now as well. The 56" front spring swap pushed my axle forward a few inches which gained me some firewall clearance but fubar'd my steering. It has worked well enough for awhile but I am rethinking it right now. Here is how it is currently situated.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/currentsteering.jpg

Due to the axle being pushed forward, it puts the tube almost directly below where the draglink attaches to the pitman. I'm not sure what effect the angle of the draglink in relation to the axle has on performance, but it doesnt seem like it is good. I also still have low steer and even my 1 1/2" 3/8 wall tierod is bent from bashing on stuff.

Here is what I would like to do.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/aftersteering.jpg

Reverse swinging steering boxes can be sourced from Chevy astro vans. In order for the pitman to fit around the leaf spring, the front hanger would need to be moved down and forward a bit, which incidentally would also bring the axle forward a few more inches. This is good. This would keep the pitman and draglink up and hopefully provide a moderate level of protection. Moving it forward another few inches will also help ensure that I have adequate clearance under the oilpan for a rear mounted tie-rod. Since I'm at it I might as well do hydro assist.

[Seth]

I agree with the hippie on the b hoop neeiding a little more bracing, seems it has very little side load bracing in that pic, only what the runners going to the rear provide. (not much) I would pur in a diagonal, or what hippie has in his drawing (an 'A') or at the very least, a straight across bar, like a dash bar.

[bcolman]

heres an idea for your tube work

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=743401&page=2

[TexTJ209]

heres an idea for your tube work

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=743401&page=2

That looks like balls.


...perfect for Pigpen! :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

Here's a fun problem. I am trying to make my factory engine temperature gauge from Pigpen's original 84 chevy cluster work with my '02 8.1. While it originally had a carb'd motor with, AFAIK, 1 temp sensor for the gauge, TBI motors had two sensors. One was mounted on the intake manifold next to the thermostat and it was a variable resistance unit that had two wires, one of which was a 5 volt power supply. This one kept the puter happy. GM has used this sensor on every fuel injected motor they have made until 2002.

The other was for the gauge located in the same place as any other chevy engine I've ever seen, on the driver's side head. This one has one wire and is otherwise physically identical to the intake one, but I have no idea how it works. I cant find **** for specs on this sensor and no parts stores seem to carry it. Since the pipe plug on my driver's side head is frozen in place I made a nice and ghetto pipe T-fitting to install the sensor in the heater line between the radiator and intake. I stole the one wire sensor off my suburban and put it in the T-fitting but it would not register on the gauge. I know the T-fitting is grounded via voltmeter test but beyond that I am stumped.

[Eckert]

know for a fact both the sending unit and guage are working?

[Sharpe]

Pigpen's not gonna make it to TCC :mad:

[85cj7]

what are you showing us? That huge crack in your new tranny? WTF? I thought this just happened?

[Seth]

x2 ???

[85cj7]

strikingly similar to page 47?

[bcolman]

i attribute this to the fact that you dont match motor mounts and tranny mounts material

[KrazyKarl02]

I'm Sharpe. You know me, you love me, and I'm prety kickass all the way around.

You know Sharpe, this is not pretty kickass all the way around.

This vehicle is cursed!

[J Cooper]

take that gray thing sitting in your back yard

[DRAGOONRANCH]

take that gray thing sitting in your back yard


and leave it in the bottom of the deepest ravine there...

:gigem:

[Reckless]

Ive got a 4l80E ill sell ya cheap

[Seth]

details on the 4l80e?

[Reckless]

came out of a 1998 chevy 2500 4wd

[Sharpe]

Since my current TH400 only has around 50,000 miles on it I am thinking about just fixing it. The area where the crack is has nothing inside of it there besides the output tailshaft, so disassembling any clutches or complicated **** wont be necesary. The tentative plan is to pull it, have Clarke mig the crack back together, replace the trans mount with a poly one and re-tube the rear shaft to hopefully make it straighter. Hopefully I didnt fubar the part of the CV that goes inside the driveshaft tube too much. I'm thinking while I have it out I might swap a 32 spline front output into the 205 so I can get a High Angle output flange and run a 1350 CV on the front. I have still yet to blow up a stock CV on Pigpen but I did blow one up in a parts truck once and it took out the tranny so I would like to do as much as possible to limit that risk. I might get a new rear shaft made and run my current rear CV on the front with a square tube shaft until I can afford a fancy long travel one. Lots of thinking and work to do.

[colman]

isn't that case alluminum?

[AggieTJ2007]

get doug to TIG weld it for you, it will be alot stronger

[colman]

i agree

[uglyota]

Is your tcase just hanging off the back, behind the tranny mount, or is it otherwise supported in some way? Does anybody make a tcase mount that bolts to one of the output covers on a 205, like the FROR mount for yotas?
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/images/transfer_case/xmemberskid-019.jpg

[Sharpe]

205's have two threaded holes on the passenger side for a frame brace but I think in my case that would only make things worse. Maybe not though.

[tigweld]

it is really tuff to weld those cases, be prepared to be there a little while. being covered in oil inside and out makes it weld like shiat so grind and clean the crap out of it. I've welded bellhousing tabs(2 on the same case) back on with success but I doubt a tailshaft housing will stay together.

[Doug Krebs]

I'm not really sure where they think I'm getting an AC tig welder from either?:confused:

[Sharpe]

it is really tuff to weld those cases, be prepared to be there a little while. being covered in oil inside and out makes it weld like shiat so grind and clean the crap out of it. I've welded bellhousing tabs(2 on the same case) back on with success but I doubt a tailshaft housing will stay together.

Whats the best way to clean the outside surface? It looks prety porous so I figured it would be a ***** to clean sufficiently. We are planning on using a spool gun if it matters.

[tigweld]

I think you would have much better luck with a tig. I use lots of carb cleaner and I sand the shiat out of the area (well past the weld zone w/coarse sandpaper) then I clean again with thinner. to insure no contaminaits you need to do the same to the inside surfaces aswell. weld slow, the AC will pull the improperties out, but you have to add lots of rod quickly to not blow the piece away. can't remember the rod I used but I still have some and can look if you need.

[TMatheaus]

brake clean works a better than carb clean, or hose it down with some castrol super clean, let it sit then spray it off with water

[uglyota]

I don't think it matters what the first couple stages are...he is finishing with acetone

[tigweld]

yup almost all other cleaners leave a residue that f's up tig, I clean everything I weld with thinner, acetone, or some mineral spirits variant

[eight]

My original transmission case was welded back together with a stick. It held.

[RCcola55]

i was think grind the crack out clean it up and weld it up with a spool gun

[Sharpe]

I finally finished getting the transmission pulled yesterday. The empty space in the tailhousing didnt go as far up into the trans as I thought so it looks like there might actually be some important **** under the crack. Now I have a few choices to make. Ryan Curry was prety adament about TIG'ing it due to the heating and cooling rate but to do this I will either have to pay a shop to do it or drag it to campus so Doug can take a shot at it. Clarke wants to MIG it. I'm not so sure its repairable at all without gutting the housing, and at that point its not worth the trouble to fix that case, as I have another one that the case is fine on but the internals are ****ed. So, options are as follows;

TIG current case w/o diassembly
MIG current case w/o disassembly
Take guts from cracked case and swap into uncracked case
Say ****itall and find another working take-out trans

I have never messed with the internals of a transmission beyond fluid and filter changes so swapping the guts over is a little intimidating, but at least I would be able to disassemble to uncracked case first to see how everything goes together.

[uglyota]

jeepindoug on pirate wrote a rad play-by-play for rebuilding a th400 a long time ago. Maybe it was in his malvado grande buggy build?

[Doug Krebs]

I'd say you'd have to disassemble it or it would be a waste of time. I'm not master of TIGing aluminum, but I know it needs to be clean on both sides and oil free. I'm not even sure I'd want to waste my time if it wasn't disassembled.

How much is a new case? If you don't want to mess with swapping the internals have you asked a shop how much it would be?

How much is your time worth at this point. If it's welded, put back in, weld fails, have to take it back out and repeat?

[Sharpe]

It "only" took about 4 hours total to pull it out, obviously re-installing will take a little longer. At this point I am leaning toward swapping the good guts into the good case. I do actually want to try my hand at rebuilding an auto, and this seems like a good opportunity. Since both transmissions are worthless as is, if I FUBAR it in the end I'll only be out a little time and it will still be a good learning experience. So, with that in mind, thoughts on a reverse manual valve body...

[uglyota]

yes yes yes 1>N>R=kickass

[mudtoy67]

Only thing that would suck about reverse manual is having to remember to down shift from 2nd/3rd when you stop. We had a customer at Eaker's who would bring his Torino in about every six months for a trans rebuild cause he would have a few beers (a lot) and then drive around in 3rd. :laughing:

[tigweld]

reverse manual is much easier to adjust if you are using a aftermarket type shifter.

make sure you get one with atleast 1st gear compression braking maybe even 2nd, most don't do this and for any thing other than a rockcrawler I woould recommend no com. braking it suck's on the street but needed for crawlin.

[mudtoy67]

How does the compression braking work on these valve bodies? In other words what else does it do besides hold 1st or hold 2nd gear (which is what a manual vb would be doing anyway right)?

[Sharpe]

Yes I was deffinately planning on one with compression braking. Pigpen will see a little street time but will obviously be mostly wheelin so I think it'd be a better choice. I have an Art Carr shifter.

[tigweld]

there are a few different valvebody combo's they all do different stuff. most are for drag racing like t-brake(pro-tree and regular) reverse and standard pattern and ones with and with out compression braking and then there are the vairiations of stock ones so you can use Drive normally. there are also some variations for dirt roundy round cars that do funky stuff, but I don't know much about how those operate as I have never drivin' or even been interested in them.

[Reckless]

I can help you with the rebuild sharpe. Ive been into 3 or 4 th400s

[Graystroke]

just spray some berryman B 12 chemtool on it and TIG it! It only causes cancer in California.
get some of that heat sink putty and stick it around the crack if you are worried about heat.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

get some of that heat sink putty and stick it around the crack if you are worried about heat.

that's what she said!

[robertf03]

I think that putty is aluminum based. probably a poor thermal conductor compared to a transmission housing.

[Sharpe]

Here's the writeup Eric was referring to. Its good info for sure.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430754

[Sharpe]

Today I finally got around to disassembling both transmissions and I have to say, it was easier than I expected. I dont really understand how it all works but the arrangement of the clutch sets and gears is prety straight forward. It turns out that the clutch disks in the tranmission that I cracked were prety ****ed up, and the clutches from Pigpen's first 4wd transmission (that mysteriously stopped working) were actually in great shape, but the metal bands were FUBAR'd in it. So what it boiled down to is Rowdy and I inspected everything closely and kludging together all the good **** from each transmission to make one uber-good one. We didnt get around to reassembly today because I had to order a seal kit from O'Reillys for the rear servo, valve body and other small internal seals that I was not aware of.

Here's the good (uncracked) housing stripped and all cleaned up drying off in the sun.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0404.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0405.jpg

Here's the yoke think that I bootyfabbed to hold the transmission housing in an engine stand while working on it.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0407.jpg

All the guts and **** from two TH400's.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0409.jpg

Rowdy doign whatever it is that he does...
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0408.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0410.jpg

Since we got as far as we could get with the transmissions prety early in the afternoon, I decided to start on the rear axle relocation. As part of my "fix-all-the-halfassed-****" grand plan my front axle will be moved forward ~8" or so so I can fix my goofy steering geometry. Since my wheelbase is already 130", I did not want to make it any longer so I am moving the rear axle forward 12." I am also replacing the 63" rear springs I was running with a set of 56's. The 63's were too stiff and had too much rear overhang.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0412.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0411.jpg

[Reckless]

If i wouldnt have been there, ya would have put together a half-halfassed trans! but ill let it slide this time:flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

Thoughts on foam in a fuel cell?

I'm liking this one.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JAZ/547/252-116-01/10002/-1

[tigweld]

it sux don't use it unless u plan on changing it every year or diagnosing wierd fuel delivery problems

I think this is pretty cool(wiffle balls instead of foam)
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55450&page=2

[Sharpe]

it sux don't use it unless u plan on changing it every year or diagnosing wierd fuel delivery problems

I think this is pretty cool(wiffle balls instead of foam)
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55450&page=2

Awsome :laughing: :gigem: The $40 difference between foam and no foam can be partially put towards a couple dozen wiffle balls!

[Sharpe]

GM part number for pitman arm to investigate later...

26056102

[colman]

i have a buddy with some foam he isn't gonna use that he would sell cheep. pm me if you want his number

[Sharpe]

Finally got the rest of the tranmission put back together last night. Damn rebuild kit came with a pan gasket but no filter :rolleyes: so I'll get one today and maybe reinstall the whole shebang tonight.

[Sharpe]

Trans installed last night. Ordered poly trans mount and adjustable vacuum modulator from Summit, they wont be here until tuesday though. So I cant install the t-case and crossmember until then. I'll probably work on putting the rear suspension back together tonight and tomorrow.

[AggieTJ2007]

sweet I wanna see a burnout

[Reckless]

the modulator i got from waco for you is adjustable asshat

[Seth]

That still doesnt mean he wants to run it.

[Sharpe]

the modulator i got from waco for you is adjustable asshat

And its long gone. **** if I know where, its only $12 so I bought a new one and moved on with my life. I suggest you do the same.

[Reckless]

What if i dont want to? hahahahah

[Sharpe]

What does everyone run for fuel hose in high pressure, fuel injected applications? I put plain rubber parts store hose on to get to Clayton, even though it specifically says "not for fuel injected applications" on it. It has held up well enough so far but I'm sure catastrophic failure is imminent and I will be installing a fuel cell anyway. I dont want to pay for genuine braided hose so I was looking at the mid-level hpses. Russell's Twist-Lok hose is the cheapest per foot in this category and the fittings that go with it are available in the styles I am wanting to use.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Russell/Russell-Twist-Lok-Hose/747169/10001/-1

My fuel systems runs at ~70 PSI so the cheap rubber **** isnt gonna cut it anymore.

[robertf03]

hardline with flex line only where its necessary. comression fittings to connect the hardline to the flex line that has a piece of hardline crimped to it. bryan hose kind of sucks, they are all about push locks and brazing. They do have a decent selection of hardline at least. I think napa will actually crimp stuff.

[Sharpe]

After the fuel pump and filters (thinking about running a water seperator/pre-filter) there would only be ~3 feet of hardline, at most. Not really worth the trouble to me.

[KrazyKarl02]

Stainless steel brake line for the hard line.

At connection points I use actual "fuel injection hose" and use fuel injection clamps. Has held fine on the Klogger, but Ford fuel injection is only like 40 lbs.

[RCcola55]

fitting from pickup the pump, hose with push lock fittings between pump and filter, hard line from filter down the frame to seperator, push lock fitting and hose up to fuel rail.

this hose http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Push-Loc-Hose/764426/10002/-1
these fittings http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-AN-Push-Loc-Hose-End-Fittings-Black/773391/10002/-1
and stainless hard line like carl said.

trust me on this one for once.

[Sharpe]

Jeg's hose specifically says not for use with fuel.

[RCcola55]

use the hose u were talking about with russels brand twist lock fitting, but defently use hard line when and where u can

i dont know why jegs would say use that hose when the clearly say that fittings are for fuel

[uglyota]

I think yota infection runs at 70 or 80 psi (from the in-tank pump) and ever since I put in a cheap in-line filter like 10 years ago trying to diagnose a gremlin, I have had regular rubber fuel line pressed onto barb fittings with the fuel injection hose clamps and haven't had a problem. I would agree with the using as much hard line as possible, but also think you might as well do it right and do it once

[Sharpe]

I finally got everything hooked back up last night and started it up. No funny noises coming from the transmission yet so thats good. I did manage to nick the fuel return line while drilling one of the holes for the front spring hangers so I'll need to fix that. I'll get it turned around so I can tear into the front end tonight.

[robertf03]

only if you own property in another state, or are in the military. Why would you want to do this? Texas is easy going compared to most of the rest of the country once you hit the 25 year old mark.

[jerryg79]

Have you considered registering Pigpen in a different state? (Would that even be possible?)

i've never heard of anyone register a car as a liquid or gas?!?

[TexTJ209]

Plates

Sporks

[uglyota]

WTF are you talking about hotpocket? Are you responding to something on the first page?

[FJAggie07]

i've never heard of anyone register a car as a liquid or gas?!?

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

[TexTJ209]

WTF are you talking about hotpocket? Are you responding to something on the first page?

Don't question the Hot Pocket. As usually the answer makes your brain hurt, and contemplate things that are illegal.

[Sharpe]

Have you considered registering Pigpen in a different state? (Would that even be possible?)

Texas is prety much as good as it gets for Pigpen-esque vehicle registration. A few small details are all that have kept me from getting him inspected before, but I plan on having it done before the semester starts.

[TexTJ209]

Antique plates. Do it. Do it.

[Sharpe]

**** yah! :gigem:

Yes I know its spelled wrong, the correct spelling was taken and I figure this way it fits in with the Aint Skeered sticker.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/personalized.jpg

[jerryg79]

**** yah! :gigem:

Yes I know its spelled wrong, the correct spelling was taken and I figure this way it fits in with the Aint Skeered sticker.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/personalized.jpg

what if you put a 3 instead of the I?

[Sharpe]

Too late now...

[FJAggie07]

Speaking of this, TAMOR is available at TXDOT website it seems...

[uglyota]

If you put TAMOR plates on that dodge you bought your wife I will personally come down to Dallas and torch them off

[jerryg79]

agreed hippie.

Oh well sharpe PIGP3N and P1GP3N were already taken anyway.

[FJAggie07]

No thanks, I was curious cause I thought that Junior had them.

I lost my personalized plates when I sold my FJC. I just ordered some new ones tho...

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f105/starranchjoker/AG07.jpg

[DRAGOONRANCH]

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/DRAGOONRANCH/Stupid/fag07.jpg

[jerryg79]

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f192/DRAGOONRANCH/Stupid/fag07.jpg

oh son!

[Sharpe]

Finally got my rear winch mount/ suspension back together last night. I'm putting my M12000 in the rear and the deck of my bed will sit flat over the top of it. The free spool lever and solenoid pack controller connection will be accesable from the front of the mount (reach up and under). It will be wired to my in-cab control so the hookup on the solenoid pack will be for backup only.

Performance Truck on 21 has the best deals on high count LED taillights.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0424.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0419.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0420.jpg

I took 13" out of the rear driveshaft.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0422.jpg

And what do you do when the brushes in your Harbor Freight grinder wear out in the middle of the night and you're not quite done with your project?...
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0423.jpg

[mudtoy67]

Looks good! Pretty smrt idea on the grinder.:gigem:

[bcolman]

you planning on a different winch for the front?

[Sharpe]

Yup, 8274.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

what is that one rated at?

[Doug Krebs]

what is that one rated at?

It's rated ****ing awesome! They have one of the fastest line speeds. 8274's give me wood!

[DRAGOONRANCH]

yeah, but is it going to be able to pull that big hunk o' american made steel? :O

[bcolman]

he may need a snatch block depending on the situation, but it should pull without one, it will might just be a little slow

[Sharpe]

8274's are the fastest winch warn makes and I know for a fact they have enough cajones to get the job done. Not to mention they hold more cable than any other winch.

[FJAggie07]

http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/src/M8274-50.shtml

I dunno what they are rated at, we have one on the front of our new turd and everyone has always said 12,000 but I don't think it is rated that high. They are definitely the fastest at 73.4 feet per minute! :eek:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

You will definitely need that snatch block. :D



Is the one you are going to put on there an old one, or a newer model.

[Sharpe]

The one I am using came with a "free" 74 CJ5 attached to it, its prety old. I'll probably go through it and grease the gears. It might need to have a solenoid or two replaced as well. It worked when I got it, I used it to help pull the jeep off the trailer.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

That's a hellufan acquisition there! Don't let Doug around it, he will end up 'greasing' the gears for you. :eek:

[uglyota]

is that your HAD or a stock one? If it's stock go ahead and cut the rest of the tube off and replace it with some sch40 :D

[Sharpe]

It used to be a HAD, then I bent the tube bottoming it out on a crossmember I should have trimmed. It was then replaced with sch 40. The piece I cut out probably weighs around 10-15 lbs :laughing:

[uglyota]

nice...carry on!

[AggieTJ2007]

I vote sch80. little heavy but not too bad

[KrazyKarl02]

8274's are rated at 8000lbs. However the older ones came with a 2.5 hp motor, there is an upgrade to a 4.5 hp or a Bosch 6.0 hp that further improve line speed and add a little to pull power. google 8274, crazy people water cool and dual motor them...

[Sharpe]

My rear driveshaft vibrates like a mutha****a so I am going to get one re-tubed and balanced at BVD. I dont want to risk cracking another transmission case.

I got my front end torn apart on saturday. I am moving the axle forward ~8" and will be reconfiguring the steering so the draglink connects to the arm behind the axle. I am currently running a superlift 4" drop pitman arm and the drivers side spring kisses the draglink end on hard compression. I read about using a late 90's Jeep cherokee pitman arm on pirate. It has just enough bend in it to clear the frame but postitions the draglink end much higher than the superlift arm.

Here is the difference in drop between the two.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0431.jpg

The only problem is that the indexing splines on the jeep arm are ~20 degrees off from what is "correct" for my Chevy box.

Here is the jeep arm on top of the superlift arm with the indexing splines lined up.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0430.jpg

Now my thoughts on the jeep arm are to just run it, and correct the draglink adjustment (in this case, lengthen it). Could this cause any problems with steering geometry? I will be installing hydro-assist at the same time so I am not worried about bumpsteer.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

How are you going to fix the 'reverse steer' that you will get when you mount the draglink behind the axle?

EDIT: Can you just remove one of the splines on the steering box to allow you to mount the pitman arm 'straight'? It might be a bit ghetto, but would be better than having the geometry off ( I think)

[Sharpe]

Steering box from a fullsize van. They are identical housings but turn "backwards" because, in their stock application, they are mounted vertically with the pitman swinging out to the front (down).

[tigweld]

astro van box maybe, same(or pretty close) mounting pattern its what my jeep has

you beat me to it but I thought I remembered looking at a full size van and something else being different

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Ok, do you have it already? If so, the I am sure you have looked to see if the indexing spline is in the same place.

[Sharpe]

I dont have the box in hand yet but looked one over at work (in the vehicle) and it looked GTG. If the indexing splines are wrong I suppose I can swap the sector shaft out, I think only the worm gear inside the box is different.

[eight]

You can cut a spline in there with a sawzall. I've done it before, don't think it was on the arm I broke.

[Doug Krebs]

You can cut a spline in there with a sawzall. I've done it before, don't think it was on the arm I broke.

:laughing:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

:laughing:

x2

[Sharpe]

Well I've been bustin ass on this **** all semester and can see the light. The front suspension is done except for shock mounts. The steering is 95% done and seems to work. My draglink is ****ed though. The ends are completely seized in the tube. I dont have a vice so I tack welded the tube to our former vice stand, heated the piss out of it with a torch and leaned on it with a ~5' cheater pipe on a wrench. It worked a little at first but then wouldnt go any more so Clarke suggested trying to draw candle wax into the threads. We heated it again and smeared candle all over it. I'm not sure if any of the wax was actually drawn into the threads, but it made a ****load of smoke. This seemed to help a little as well, but while leaning on said cheater pipe the tackwelds (which were substantial) broke and I fell on my ass, hard. I decided brute force might not be the best strategy so we decided to try soaking it. We didnt have any PB blaster but I needed to flush my power steering system anyway, so I used the old ATF to soak it. I have heard it helps with surface rust, but I dont know about penetrating. One end is sitting in there right now and will stay there until I get back after in on wednsday. I dont really want to buy new ends and tube but that is the direction this whole endeavour is heading.

Besides that, left to do before Clayton:

Re-do rear spring perches
Rear shock mounts
Front shock mounts
Build lower half of front driveshaft
Install front and rear winches
Make temperature and oil pressure gauges work
Maybe get started on my tube bed and toolbox

[Doug Krebs]

I'll assume you galled the **** out of the threads some how. You could try heating the tube while you soak TRE in dry ice/liquid nitrogen.

We've had to do this at work a couple of times. Sometimes it only goes a couple of threads at a time and you repeat.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Sharpe, push comes to shove, I have my old drag link from the beast at the house that is no longer in use.

[Sharpe]

How long is it? Threaded for drag link ends?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

It came off of my ORD hydro-assist kit. I have no idea on the length. It has tre/dre's on it. If you don't have highsteer yet, I have the arms for it if you want those. I will just send you a PM on it.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/ORD%20HiSteer%20Kit%201%20small.JPG

looks like this, only not as clean...

[Sharpe]

Got my shock mounts done, they came out prety nice. No pics though, my camera disappeared during/after the Spring Creek trip. If someone finds a small point and shoot canon, probably mine. Ed's grandpa dropped off his old draglink for me. It is bent to clear a stock chevy engine crossmember but I need a straight one. I am giving up on mine. I dont have the time or inclination to mess with it. The plan for now is to cut the threaded ends off Ed's draglink and weld them into a piece of tube to make it the right length. If I can get that done this afternoon, I can get it turned around and start on the rear axle.

[Sharpe]

Ed's draglink and Clarke's rockwell tierod are now kludged into a Pigpen draglink.

[KrazyKarl02]

hmm, welding on steering components, excellent!

[Sharpe]

People use weld-in threaded bungs for tierods and draglinks all the time. I just "made" my own bungs.

[AggieTJ2007]

sounds safe enough for me

[CheapJeep]

I'll look for your camera when I go home for turkey day. Probably fell out of your pocket when you passed out on the couch...

[stx4wheeler]

By made your own bung do you mean welded some jam nuts together? If so I have done that in a pinch.

[Sharpe]

By made your own bung do you mean welded some jam nuts together? If so I have done that in a pinch.

Jesus****ingchrist no! :laughing: I cut the ends off a threaded draglink and welded them into a larger piece of tube. There is at least 3-4" of thread in the ends I cut off.

[stx4wheeler]

Jesus****ingchrist no! :laughing: I cut the ends off a threaded draglink and welded them into a larger piece of tube. There is at least 3-4" of thread in the ends I cut off.

Hehehe:gigem:

[Hot Pocket]

By made your own bung do you mean welded some jam nuts together? If so I have done that in a pinch.

Where's Ed when you need him? All this talk about bungs and pinchin jam nuts.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/b/ba/Cornholio.jpg

The draglink definitely fits with the motif of the truck. ;)

[Sharpe]

So the ****ing jeep pitman arm will not work with my uber-bitchin shock mounts. It swings too far out and hits the shock body, and there really isnt any better place to mount the shock. I *can* run my old pitman but the unnecessary drop will limit my uptravel, and I dont have that much to start with. If anyone local has an extra pitman arm laying around with the indexing splines perpendicular and parallel to the arm, I would like to borrow or buy it. If you need it for something, I will just borrow it to check fit and then try to find one myself. Something off a Ford or larger Jeep is most likely to work but it you have any with the correct spline orientation that has roughly the same amount of droop as the top arm in the pic at the top of the page I'm interested. I do not want to heat and bend a pitman, that is ghetto.

In other news, I got the front tires back on and it looks great. It sits almost a foot lower at the hood than before and is prety level. I just need to build bumpstop mounts and then the front suspension is GTG.

[Reckless]

i might have one here

[Sharpe]

Go check...

[85cj7]

look here for a pic of what I have. send me a pm if you want it, it's in my shed, i'll send you the combo to get in.

http://tamor.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11352
http://tamor.org/forums/showpost.php?p=241619&postcount=3

[Sharpe]

That has the right drop but the indexing splines are 45 degrees off.

[uglyota]

don't tell me you frankensteined together a draglink but you're afraid to grind down a couple of indexing splines :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

Not grinding splines on a pitman. I got the bumpstop mounts and rear shock mounts done today. Got everything else pieced together and went for a little test drive. Steering is WAY better now but I still need to get a new rear driveshaft.

[Sharpe]

Finally some pics.

Passenger shock mount.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0547.jpg

Driver's shock mount.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0541.jpg

Side shot of everything tucked in there.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0543.jpg

Full frontal.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0545.jpg

[uglyota]

pimp! your passenger side knuckle could use a cleaning :D

[AggieTJ2007]

when are you getting bigger tires

[Sharpe]

Yesterday I took the passenger side lockout off to replace it and half the stub shaft came with it. I dont know when I broke it though. It had to either have been Clayton last year or Karl's bachelor party in February. Luckily, Brian has plenty of spares so I bought one from him and had it replaced and back together in under two hours. The spindle didnt seem to be fukt up either, the hub came right off.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0550.jpg

Now, all I have left to do is mount and wire both winches, redo one rear shock mount and air up the trailer tires!

[stx4wheeler]

I thought I heard it break when you hit that mud hole at 6k rpms at karls bachelor party.

[85cj7]

i've got pitman arm you might be interested in.. . http://www.partsmike.com/store/sc_images/products/1315_large_image.jpg