Pigpen

[Sharpe]

Mind if I swing by after 7 and check it out?

[85cj7]

its on the jeep right now, the only reason i noticed it was wrong are the indexing splines are 30 degrees off from what the jeep needs. I bought this from parts mike and he sent me the wrong one. I have it on the jeep incase the replacement doesn't get to me in time. But when it comes it i'll bring the other arm over to dexter. It is reamed for one ton drag link allready and because of the drop the drag link end goes on top of the arm and faces downwards.

[85cj7]

i've got pitman arm you might be interested in.. . http://www.partsmike.com/store/sc_images/products/1315_large_image.jpg

still want this?

[Sharpe]

**** got propper ****ed this time.

[FJAggie07]

dayum.

[uglyota]

hey have you thought about maybe redesigning your tcase mount so your truck stops twisting your transmissions apart? Just a thought :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

Yes. Pigpen will be getting a transfercase foot mount and better constructed front driveshaft.

[Seth]

nice!

[Sharpe]

Halfway closer to busted front stub shafts.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0628.jpg

[AggieTJ2007]

have the transmission replaced is the other half, or two more tires is the other half

[davido]

That's going to be a beast now! No beadlocks though? I thoughtyou had some H1s.

[Sharpe]

Still need two more tires. I do have H1's, the wheels came with the tires.

[Eckert]

when are you going to build something like this?

http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/images/np205_support_kit_assembly.jpg

[tigweld]

bushings will not last very long like, that they(u need 2) need to be turned parallel with framrails. with torque applied the bushing in that drawing the will chew the shoulders off of the bushing in no time.

[colman]

what he said....




post count padded, here i come jerry...

[bcolman]

you need one of these

[robertf03]

make sure its greasable!

[uglyota]

Robert are your motor mounts poly or still clamshell style? I don't think you want that solid of a tcase mount if your motor mounts aren't captive poly too...

[Sharpe]

The t-case will be getting a brace similar to what Brian posted. My motor mounts are poly leaf spring bushings.

[uglyota]

Kickass. Yeah that's the ticket

[AggieTJ2007]

you think you would have figured this out after the first transmission

[uglyota]

you think you would have figured this out after the first transmission

why you gotta go sh1tting on someone for trying something different? :angry:

:flipoff2:

[AggieTJ2007]

Because obviously different wasn't working

[Sharpe]

Found a source for splined stock to build a less-****ty front driveshaft.

http://www.grobinc.com/coldrolled/bushings.htm

[Eckert]

Found a source for splined stock to build a less-****ty front driveshaft.

http://www.grobinc.com/coldrolled/bushings.htm

price worth it?

[Sharpe]

From what I've read on Pirate I'd say yes. Enough male stock to build a front shaft and two splined bushings should be about $150 at most.

[agjohn02]

Enough male stock to build a front shaft.

you wish:rainbow:

[stx4wheeler]

Got a link to the pirate thread?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

From what I've read on Pirate I'd say yes. Enough male stock to build a front shaft and two splined bushings should be about $150 at most.

Is there a price break on a bulk buy? Seems like it might make it easier to swallow.

[agjohn02]

Is there a price break on a bulk buy? Seems like it might make it easier to swallow.

***, srsly? :rainbow:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

***, srsly? :rainbow:

I hope you know I get the assist on that one. ;)

[Sharpe]

Everything's back together now and here's the brace I built. The t-case/floor/frame clearance was really tight, so my options were prety limited. I could have used a smaller bushing but I had this one already so, meh.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0640.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0641.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0642.jpg

[colman]

so do you already have a non cracked tranny back in

[Sharpe]

Yes bitch.

[bcolman]

is there only one bolt holding the brace to the 205?

[Sharpe]

No, two. Its a tight squeeze so I couldnt get it in the pic.

[colman]

sweet, glad to hear you got it back together

[bcolman]

looks good, does this mean you are going to gilmer?

[davido]

Slick setup! If it's anything like mine, that will make a HUGE difference.

[Sharpe]

Here's what happens when you wheel for 4 years with crossover and no hydro-assist. This is the sector shaft out of Pigpen's old PS box. Notice the crack that goes about halfway around it and the slightly twisted and deformed splines. I took the box off when I revised the front suspension and didnt look at it too close until today. Clarke had it apart to tap for Marcus's truck and noticed the damage and it was missing 5 out of the 24 ball bearings around the worm gear...

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/IMG_0654.jpg

[davido]

Doh. You were well on your way to having a Kopecki moment and getting towed back to town backwards.

[eight]

Not very fun when one of those breaks on the trail.

[agjohn02]

How many times are you going to have to build this before it stays together?

[Sharpe]

When's your jeep going to be done?

[eight]

I think it was October 2006.

[agjohn02]

I think it was October 2006.

That was a different jeep.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

When's your jeep going to be done?

Brady has a good chance of graduating college before Cokcs finishes his misterpiece...

[agjohn02]

Brady has a good chance of graduating college before Cokcs finishes his misterpiece...

A Buster graduating college?!?!




:flipoff2:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

He's a Burnes thankyouverymuch... :flipoff2:

(there is still hope for him I think)

[Sharpe]

Got started painting my wheels tonight. I am about to buy the other two tires so the wheels needed to be prepped. They have been recentered and sandblasted for about two years, so they have developed some rust from sitting. I *could* have paid to have them sandblasted again but didnt really want to drop that much coin, so I just wire brushed em off and wiped down with acetone. I used this primer

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/wheelz2.jpg

because it specifically says it can be applied over light surface rust. I scraped the minimal scale off so it was GTG. The only thing that sucks about the primer is it calls for 16-24 hours of curing time before applying paint over it. Since it is humid as **** down here I am leaning towards the longer end of that, but I dont want to start painting at 9pm tomorrow night. The **** is ****ing radiant in this pic

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/Wheelz.jpg

Here's the compressor I used for the painting with its brand spanking new pressue cutoff switch and popoff valve. Thanks goes to Cook and Flem for esplainin wiring the new switch in. Its rated at like 8 cfm at 90 psi and handled the draw like a champ

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/wheelz3.jpg

I deffinately need to address the air drying situation though. It was probably only 70-80% humidity here tonight but it still seems to be an issue. I have a cheapass Craftsman drier/seperator mounted on the tank and then ran a disposable filter element and then a final desicant drier to my bitchin Harbor Freight gun, seen here

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/wheelz4.jpg

Even as the last filtering element in the system, the desicant drier appeared to be half used up by the time I was done. I am planning on spraying three coats tomorrow so I will need to go buy another one...or two. It is a Kobalt brand from Lowes and the desicant inside turns clear when it is saturated and needs to be replaced. Prety spiffy. TSC had a "fancy" Cambel-Hauswhatever drier/seperator but it was ~$130 so I am going to do some research before I spend that much on something like that. I'm thinking about making a bootyfab cooler using an old truck a/c condensor and a box fan, but didnt have time to **** with it tonigh.

I also need a regulator at the gun. I looked at them today but figured the regulator coming off my tank would be sufficient. It isnt. There is no gauge after the regulator so I dont know exactly how low it goes. The way the gun was spraying indicates it was not low enough though. The pattern was not very dense and no amount of ****ing with the needle could adjust it enough. I dont know if the paint might have been a contributing factor though. The can said not to thin it if spraying and it seemed a little on the thick side. But, I cant say for sure since this is my first time ever painting anything with a gun. I'm going to get a little inline regulator tomorrow before I lay any actual paint and see where that gets me.

/blog :flipoff2:

[DRAGOONRANCH]

nice rim stiffeners/rock rings. :D

[stx4wheeler]

Sharpe where did you get the new pressure switch/ cutoff? I gave a harbor freight compressor that needs one.

[Reckless]

tractor supply sells them

[uglyota]

GoIt was probably only 70-80% humidity here tonight...

:p

dude you may have stolen my record for amount of time wasted trying to make the wheels on an off-road rig look good :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

From now on, no more xo-rust paint. The **** takes at least 8 hours to cure between coats, **** that. The Rustoleum I'm using on the outer rings takes ~30 minutes before its ready for the next coat, which is about how long it takes to do all 4 rings. The xo-rust also seems to spray like ****. On the can, it says not to thin it at all if spraying and while it isnt that thick, it could be thinner. I thinned the rustoleum per the instructions and it sprayed awsome. The gun even responded to tuning adjustments! I found an OLD can of the same gloss black xo-rust and it says if you thin to use xy*** sparingly, so I'm going to try that on a piece of scrap tomorrow and if it works ok, use it for the second coat.

I added another air drier today and while it had moisture in it when I was done, the (new) disposable desicant was used up by the time I was done with the first coat on the inner wheel halves. The paints I am using are bubba-farm-use kinda **** so I dont see a little moisture causing any serious problems but if I do any serious body work in the future, I am going to invest in a real cooler/dehumidifier. I am putting a decent effort into making these look good but I am doing this more for practice at using a paint gun, and saving money (vs. aerosol cans).

Oh yah, the bucket fell off the HF paint gun at one point. Shaking it around loosened the locking tab. Made a big ****ing silver mess.

[Reckless]

xo rust may take awhile, but its the best stuff for your application

[stx4wheeler]

If you wanna get into painting I would get an hlvp gravity feed gun for your next project. I like mine a lot better that the style like you have.

[Sharpe]

You have got to be ****ing kidding me. I tried to get a quote for the last two 42's I need to buy from Foothill Motorsports and they said the tires are on backorder until June or July because Interco is on strike. FML. Maybe 4wp has some in stock somewhere. Do we have any kind of vendor hookup for tires?

[jerryg79]

You have got to be ****ing kidding me. I tried to get a quote for the last two 42's I need to buy from Foothill Motorsports and they said the tires are on backorder until June or July because Interco is on strike. FML. Maybe 4wp has some in stock somewhere. Do we have any kind of vendor hookup for tires?

I thought there was a shortage, because denham (sp?) tire was closing and had produced many of their tires. I think i read that on here or on pirate...maybe pirate.

[bburris]

We are having problems finding 33-35" tires for vehicles on our lot right now. Suppliers keep blaming China... :rolleyes:

[Sharpe]

Built a new, hopefully straighter, front driveshaft today. It started with a two piece rear shaft from a Chevy LWB truck.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0706.jpg

The splined portion of this shaft had a major diameter of 1.5"
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0707.jpg

I am using 2" 1/4 wall square for the inner part of the slip, perfect. I cut the male splined part off the original shaft, it will be used to align the trimmed down yoke with the inner square tube before final welding.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0708.jpg

All done. ~38" long fully compressed.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0709.jpg

A little over a foot of slip while maintaining adequate engagement. I used 2 1/2" 1/4 wall for the outer tube so a notch had to be ground into the inner tube to clear the seam.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0710.jpg

Installed and GTG.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_0712.jpg

[DRAGOONRANCH]

that is going to grenade it self and you are going to kill a bus load of orphaned nuns....

[uglyota]

The weight...is sign of reliability!

Looks good!

[Sharpe]

Got the truck up to 30-35 MPH in 4wd and the front driveshaft vibration is barely noticable. Much better than my old one for sure.

Due to this tire shortage issue, I am tossing around a few ideas. 4WP and Foothill Motorsports both said it would be July before the 42's are available again, and I'm not going to wait that long. I have this dumbass plan of installing a rockwell rear with a pair of 53" Michelin XL's on the back and my 42's on the front. The 6.71 gears in the rockwell and a 5.13 gear swap in the D60 net a ~3% difference in linear motion per revolution with their respective tires. This difference should be negligible enough on dirt to not cause any problems. The ride height can be leveled out by raising the rear spring hangers and/or adding lift springs in the front. This is some crazy redneck **** but I have been thinking about it for awhile and it would fit Pigpen's image overall.

Try to talk me out of it :flipoff2:

[FJAggie07]

Mr. Madison, what you have just said is one of the most insanely idiotic things I have ever heard. At no point in your rambling, incoherent response were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. Everyone in this room is now dumber for having listened to it. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul.

And that's all I have to say about that. :flipoff2:

[agjohn02]

Only if you do nothing about the ride height difference, will I consider this an even remotely good idea... and you better not leave off the echo tips!

[tigweld]

there was chevy truck(red wit tear off graphix) like that in four wheeler long ago,. I thought it was cool in redneck sorta way although now that i think about it it had super wide turf tires on it so I don't know how cool pizza cutter michelins would be

[Sharpe]

there was chevy truck(red wit tear off graphix) like that in four wheeler long ago,. I thought it was cool in redneck sorta way although now that i think about it it had super wide turf tires on it so I don't know how cool pizza cutter michelins would be

Its name was "Quagmire" and it was in the 1998 Top Truck Challenge, which I have on VHS :gigem: It had some kind of front loader rear axle with 60+" directional tractor tires on the back and a D60 and 40" Ground Hawgs (!) on the front. Had a 500 HP BBC with a 250 shot of nitrous too. As you might expect, it ****ing dominated the mud pit...

[bburris]

It was featured in an article called "Quagmire" and entered one of the first Top Truck Challenges. Not surprising, but the guy dominated the mud bog and log run but couldn't get more than a few feet through the rock garden.

EDIT: damn you Sharpe.

[eight]

I would sooner talk you into it.

How's the shortage of 44" tires? Maybe get a full set of those and sell your 42s at a premium since they can't be gotten.

[CheapJeep]

Do it....

[RCcola55]

ill trade you a rockwell for a 14bolt

[davido]

Rollin' on four fours. Doeet!

[Hot Pocket]

do eet

[AggieTJ2007]

rockwell do it

[RCcola55]

give ryan a 14bolt for a rockwell and xmls do ettt!!!!!!

[Eckert]

give ryan a 14bolt for a rockwell and xmls do ettt!!!!!!

x87

[jerryg79]

I'm jerry goss, and I support this venture!

[colman]

i will support this decision as long as i can take pics

[85cj7]

and what's wrong with danny's 40s?

[RCcola55]

maybe that they are danny's:rolleyes:. also pigpin only deserves to look as dumb as possible

[85cj7]

ya but if danny doesn't need them for anything, maybe he would take some kind of compensation to wheel them until July and the 42s become available. I agree it would look retarded and so is well suited for pigpen, however, it seems like a lot of unnecessary work.

[colman]

who the hell said you could bring logic into anything done with this club. we have a strong precedent of throwing it out the window and it has "worked" well for us so far.....

[Sharpe]

I did not know that 5.38's were easily available for D60's. With them, the difference in linear motion per driveshaft rotation between each axle is ~1%. Now to decide between US Standard, Yukon or Richmond gears. Priced at $178, $282 and $297, respectively. Deffinately leaning towards the US Gears, thats a prety big price jump.

[agjohn02]

is this permanent? if so, you better not be a fag and get a steering rock for the rear.

[Sharpe]

Way too fuggin expensive.

[agjohn02]

Where'd your fuzzy math go, Flem?

[robertf03]

what are you talking about?

[stx4wheeler]

what does 5.86 get you? They make those as well that's what I will be running.

[Sharpe]

5.38 is just about perfect, plus this is getting into tiny pinion territory.

[AggieTJ2007]

yeah my pinion is pretty small with 5.13s

i went with richmond gears but I found a new set for $200

[AggieTJ2007]

I am excited this thing is going to be sweet and should actually work well especially with so much unsprung weight in the rear

[RCcola55]

either go with the cheap genuine gear, or spend the cheddar on precision gears

[Sharpe]

How 'bout some *fairly* cheap Motive Gears?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DANA-60-STD-ROTATION-5-38-RING-AND-PINION-MOTIVE-GEAR_W0QQitemZ230268408312QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotor s_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item359d1111f8

FWIW 4WP lists these at $275

[RCcola55]

the genuine gear should have a life time warranty, so if they do explode you can get them replaced fo free. If you want to spend the money on quality then stick with precision, they are a little tricky to set up but ive done a few.

[Seth]

my motives ran good

[Sharpe]

Flem, is it hypothetically possible to install a circuit into a drive by wire computer to activate a 12 volt signal at a certain percentage of throttle? In this case, a TH400 kickdown switch.

[robertf03]

yes, but I'd have to think about this one. I think there are 3 potentiometers in that pedal and one is the inverse of the other. You could be ghetto and tap into 1 and have it control a transistor that controls a relay, or you could source the plugs, build something that doesn't look like a piece of crap and use all 3 in some sort of failsafe way.

Are there no solutions to this available? What does the kickdown signal control? Any idea on the amps it would draw?

[Sharpe]

There are aftermarket mechanical options but they require a mechanical connection to the throttle. On the ones I have seen, it would be prohibitively difficult to attach to the actual pedal and there is no linkage of any kind protruding from the electronic throttle body. The signal makes the transmission downshift when you mash the throttle. No idea on amperage, but probably blue butt-conector range.

[robertf03]

find a diagram from the pedal connector and I'll see what I can do

is 8100 a specific pedal, or is the tac module specific?

[agjohn02]

find a diagram from the pedal connector and I'll see what I can do

is 8100 a specific pedal, or is the tac module specific?

find the right pin on the PCM and see what you can do...

[Sharpe]

Pedals are universal, TAC's are app specific.

[Sharpe]

Foty toos. About 4 years in the making...

http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab293/Sharpest08/IMG_0839.jpg

Brand new TSL's on the rear, worn out IROKs on the front. Respect.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Bout damn time you got them new shoos on! Looks good. Ought to be a real panty dropper at shiloh! :gigem:

[KrazyKarl02]

Looks good, what is your wheel base? It looks long.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

He's around 120 I think.

[uglyota]

you gonna put some toob on that thing?

[Sharpe]

Yes, tubework is coming up after a few other projects get done. My wheel base is, in fact, ~120".

[TdmayfieldIV]

Respek!

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Sharpe, are your spindle nuts the 'common' ones for 60's? If so, I was thinking of trying to find some for the next time I have to take mine apart. I will have to see what kind I have on the green 60 in the barn.

[Sparling]

Is the green 60 complete/ for sale?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

It is torn down somewhat right now and will have dually hubs w/ it right now as I swapped the single wheel hubs onto the beast. It also has a bunch of bracketry welded on it for a fourlink and dual single ended cylinders for steering.

I am sure I want way too much for it right now, and I would want to sell the 14b along w/ it, and it is missing the carrier and ring gear (I think I still have the ring gear somewhere, just not sure).

[Sparling]

It is torn down somewhat right now and will have dually hubs w/ it right now as I swapped the single wheel hubs onto the beast. It also has a bunch of bracketry welded on it for a fourlink and dual single ended cylinders for steering.

I am sure I want way too much for it right now, and I would want to sell the 14b along w/ it, and it is missing the carrier and ring gear (I think I still have the ring gear somewhere, just not sure).

eh, not the kind of 60 I'm looking for anyways.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

haha, no problem.

[Sharpe]

As far as I know yes, they are the common 4 prong stock nuts. I remember reading on pirate awhile back about some fancy aftermarket nuts that are somehow garaunteed not to come loose but a quick google search didnt turn anything up. I half-assed want to replace my front nuts with 6 prong units to match the 14 bolts' so I'll only need one socket, but havent ever actually put any effort towards that endeavour. A complete kit is available here http://completeoffroad.com/i-123167-spindle-nut-kit-dana-60-6-prong-nkd60-6prong.html

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Oh, I see. When you handed me the 6 prong when we were putting the hubs back on, I just assumed that was what you had on yours.

[Sharpe]

In my never-ending quest to make my High Angle Driveline t-case e-brake work, I think I have finally settled on this lever
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/lever.jpg

Found herehttp://store.colemans.com/cart/emergency-brake-handle-p-721.html

Its prety simple, rugged and cheap, so I believe it will get the job done nicely. Yes, I have seen the Lokar lever and I like this one better. Its uglier, more durable looking, and cheaper. Win. The only thing that sucks is that website has a $15 minimum order, so I might buy one of their overpriced ammo cans to bump my total up unless someone else wants something from there.

The next item of concern is the jacketed cable needed to connect the lever to the arm on the brake caliper. I cant be sure exactly how everything will fit into place without having the parts in hand, but if it works out the way I am envisioning it in my head, the cable will need to be ~18-24" long. The cable needs to have a 2-3" stroke and I have no idea what the tensile stress on the cable will be, but 100 pounds seems like a good start. Finding a cable this short seems to be an issue. McMaster Carr p/n 3125K89 is the shortest I've been able to locate at 3 feet long and I can probably make it work. Each end is 9 1/2" long which leaves ~17" of flexi-ness in the middle.

[bburris]

You don't need a few extra 10-bolts to hold your back yard down?

http://store.colemans.com/cart/front-axle-assembly-chevygmc-us-gi-p-849.html

[Seth]

thats actually a good deal for someone just keeping a stock blazer on the road. shipping kill it?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Sharpe, are you guys 100% sure that my e-brake and CV flange for the atlas never showed up from high-angle? I was checking yesterday to make sure it had been paid for so that I could call Jess and find out where it's at. Either way, order me one of the levers too if that will get you over the minimum order.

[Sharpe]

Yah, there's deff no **** from HAD here for you. My stuff is easily identifiable because it has ~6 years worth of storage rust and dust on it.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Yeah, we had discussed this before, but I wanted to double check before I throw this back at him. ;)

[davido]

I'll take one Sharp.

I'm not sure if these are over priced, but if not, I'll take one of these also: http://store.colemans.com/cart/ammo-can-81-mm-p-225.html

Maybe shipping them is $$?

[bburris]

I'll take one Sharp.

I'm not sure if these are over priced, but if not, I'll take one of these also: http://store.colemans.com/cart/ammo-can-81-mm-p-225.html

Maybe shipping them is $$?

Shipping to Wylie on that box is $25, I think that's what makes them overpriced... :eek:

[Sharpe]

Only the .30 and .50 cal cans are about twice the going rate. The larger ones are prety well priced but shipping on them is killer. I usually get the bigger ones at gun shows.

[Sharpe]

Well as y'all know my power steering box locked up at K2 in April. Since it was a reman from O'Reillys, I went ahead and warrantied it. I had to drill and tap the new box for the hydro assist and got that done on thursday night. In the course of tapping it, the worm gear came partially out. I stuck it back in and hoped the balls didnt get ****ed up, but they did. When I installed it, there was a severe pop in the middle of the steering stroke. The old box had a minor pop at a random point in the stroke and it failed, so I knew this wasnt gonna work. I took it back out today and tore the box apart completely. Nothing was completely ****ed so I put it back together, got it installed and all is well now. I guess one or a few of the balls were dislodged and ****ing everything up.

Now I need to figure out what to do about the stripped torque converter bolt. When I put this trans in I stripped on of the three 3/8" bolts holding the flex plate to the converter. My options are helicoil it back to 3/8 or tap it out to 7/16. I dont know if there is enough metal surounding the hole to helicoil it though. I really dont want to pull the transmission to fix it one way or the other though. One other idea I had was to get a piece of 3/8 B7 allthread (or even just use a portion of G8 bolt) and thread it in softlyand bottom it out in the hole, then tack-weld it in and put a nut on the other side. There is enough metal that the heat shouldnt fubar the TC too much, but it sounds hella ghetto. I am leaning that direction though.

[AggieTJ2007]

i would use the piece of bolt and tack it in. Just what i would do

[85cj7]

i would use the piece of bolt and tack it in. Just what i would do

Okay, now that you have Creighton's opinion. . . . . do the opposite:flipoff2:.

[AggieTJ2007]

My opinion is good Rowdys opinion would be tick a zip tio in the hole and impact the bolt in place its like a nylock in the bolt hole

[agjohn02]

if you dont want to pull the converter, make sure the other bolts are properly torqued and forget about it. you wont be making it any better by kludging a fastener in there.

[Sharpe]

There are only 3 bolts total. Ditching one is unsettling. Is that SOP for working on helos?

[agjohn02]

no, we dont strip out fasteners. if we do, the part gets replaced or properly repaired. we damn sure dont weld in some grade zero all-thread and call it good.

i missed the part about "three 3/8" bolts" ...so, you're telling me that you have a 3 bolt converter behind a 496ci big block and you've been wheeling it with one stripped TC bolt and now you're worried about fixing it. remind me to recommend to the marine corps that you never become a maintenance officer.

[Sharpe]

The torque converter is from a 454 application, but I was suprised that it only came with 3 bolt bosses. I couldnt afford to buy any fancy aftermarket converter at the time so the generic parts store unit was installed. You do know that I have kludged together internals (clutches, bands, etc.) from THREE different transmissions to make my perfectly functional current one, right?

Thats fine, I dont want to do maintenance. I want to blow **** up :flipoff2:

[agjohn02]

What transmission is in it? Does it have a full lower dust shield or the ghey little window of the removeable bellhousing models?

[Sharpe]

Plain ol' TH400. It has a full dust shield. Havent seen this ghey little window version you speak of.

[agjohn02]

Plain ol' TH400. It has a full dust shield. Havent seen this ghey little window version you speak of.

maybe its only on the 4L60E. I dont know what an 80 looks like. Never looked at it on my truck.

this is what i have to deal with on the Jeep.

http://trickshiftperformance.com.au/zencart/images/GEN3%20AUTO-600px.jpg

[Sharpe]

Ah, around 2003 GM switched to that bellhousing on the 4L60E and 4L80E. This is part of the reason I cant find any F'king 4L80E dust covers...

[stx4wheeler]

Couldn't you just get a new House brand conveter so that you can hopefully end your transmission problems or are they to much coin? Thanks for the kickass deal on the serp setup!

[Sharpe]

Welded the stud in last night, works perfect now. The other two bolts were loose, which wasnt helping anything. Loc-tite'd em and tightened em back up and now I'm back in buisness.

I'm MC-Hammer broke right now so buying any new **** isnt really an option.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

:laughing:

[Sharpe]

Question for you engineering types. Since I dont know what normal driveshafts are made out of, do yall think the 1.25" OD male splined stock made out of 1117 cold rolled mild steel will handle front driveshaft duties on Pigpen? Here's the link to the vendor, the part number is 1187-20-2.

http://www.grobinc.com/coldrolled/std_spline_shafts.htm#

I'm trying to kludge together a long slip front shaft that isnt square tube and this is the only supplier of raw spline stock I have found. Thanks

[bcolman]

i dont know much about materials, but have you tried to contact tom woods or high angle to wee what you can get the slip portion for?

[agjohn02]

Question for you engineering types. Since I dont know what normal driveshafts are made out of, do yall think the 1.25" OD male splined stock made out of 1117 cold rolled mild steel will handle front driveshaft duties on Pigpen? Here's the link to the vendor, the part number is 1187-20-2.

http://www.grobinc.com/coldrolled/std_spline_shafts.htm#

I'm trying to kludge together a long slip front shaft that isnt square tube and this is the only supplier of raw spline stock I have found. Thanks

R..

[Sharpe]

Havent asked HAD about just the slip material but a shaft from him would be ~$495 + $100 for the 32 spline t-case flange. He has to get it from somewhere...

[bcolman]

you can use the stock flange on the front output of the 205, if its stock spline, or get one from a 208 i think, what ever one i got from you to run 32 spline and it is much cheaper, all you have to do is swap the seal which is like $5

[Sharpe]

If I'm gonna shell out for a 1350 CV shaft I'm gonna put a 32 spline front output in while I'm at it. I already have a Ford 205 to rob the output from.

[bcolman]

all i was saying is it wont cost 100 for the flange, it will be between 5 and 30 dollars to put the 208 flange on it

[AggieTJ2007]

you can get the spline stock at Napa along with the coupler that you weld the driveshaft tube too. I am pretty sure that is the material that HAD uses

[85cj7]

you can get the spline stock at Napa along with the coupler that you weld the driveshaft tube too. I am pretty sure that is the material that HAD uses

link or part numbers?


Sharpe I am sure you can get the splined stock at BVD. But they will probably want an arm and a leg.

[agjohn02]

most d-shaft shops only have short spline sections for normal driveshafts. its been a while, but the last time i looked for long spline shaft, it was hard to find.

[85cj7]

most d-shaft shops only have short spline sections for normal driveshafts. its been a while, but the last time i looked for long spline shaft, it was hard to find.

I got a 12" section of splined stock from BVD in May 2009 to fix the twisted portion on my rear d-shaft. If I remember right it was about $100. Here is a pic of the twisted piece, the replacement one looks exactly the same. http://tamor.org/forums/showpost.php?p=227244&postcount=406

[agjohn02]

I got a 12" section of splined stock from BVD in May 2009 to fix the twisted portion on my rear d-shaft. If I remember right it was about $100. Here is a pic of the twisted piece, the replacement one looks exactly the same. http://tamor.org/forums/showpost.php?p=227244&postcount=406

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryg79
i dont speak australian.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jerryg79
seacrest, you are my hero!



im sorry your lover isnt renewing his dues.

[85cj7]

im sorry your lover isnt renewing his dues.

ya, we'll all miss you cox!:flipoff2:

[AggieTJ2007]

link or part numbers?


Sharpe I am sure you can get the splined stock at BVD. But they will probably want an arm and a leg.

no but I could get it. Unfortunately it only comes in 3ft sections at $100 a ft

[TexTJ209]

ya, we'll all miss you cox!:flipoff2:


I'm sure you never miss out on cox :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

Just posting this link here so I can find it if I ever actually wheel again. H1 wheel brand new nuts and o-rings are available from JB Custom Fab.

http://www.jbfab.net/cgi-bin/miva?/Merchant2/merchant.mv+Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=JCFCS&Category_Code=H1

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I still have new orings in my stash if you need a few.

[Sharpe]

Parting out. Who wants what

[BroncoJo]

Price on tires?

[sam_hodnett]

parting out. Who wants what

stop, dont do this

[Sparling]

Text me tire prices and the 14 bolt

[AggieTJ2007]

I want tires too, they would go to a much better use on my jeep.

[TdmayfieldIV]

I'll take a bald one for a spare

[colman]

i still have new orings in my stash if you need a few.

you got 4 you want to part with?

[stx4wheeler]

Price on tires and wheels

[davido]

What do you want for the whole thing?

[sasquatch]

not to support parting it out/selling it, but if you do i could use the driveshafts.

it's not costing you money right now is it... or depreciating :flipoff2:

[Seth]

So what's the deal? Building something new?

[Sharpe]

The End

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q137/rsharpe08/pigpen%20stuff/IMG_1274.jpg

[TdmayfieldIV]

What's next?

[JB]

Boo

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Makes me sad. What's in the future for you as far as wheeling goes?

[Fredo]

His name...was Robert Paulson. :(

[sam_hodnett]

boo

x2