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Sharpe
03-20-2005, 08:41 PM
This was my first truck. Its an 84 Chevy C20 (2wd 3/4 ton). I blew up the 350 that was in it when I was 16 so its been sitting in my shop for a couple years. A few months ago I got the crazy idea to convert it to 4x4. I tore all the 2wd suspension off the front and started drilling holes, then got tired of it. I didnt touch it for about 6 months but became interested again during the break, mostly because I need to get it out of the way so I can get project cheapjeep in there. Anyway I decided to go balls to the wall and put the current 56" rear springs in the front, and a set of 63" ones in the rear. I have all the brackets from a 4x4 but some of them didnt fit so I'm having to do a little fab work for everything to go together. I'm gonna throw a 6.2L diesel I have in there for its low end torque and water-proofness :D and put the D60, 14 bolt and tires from the Burban on it. As usual, I'm aiming to spend as little as possible on it and si far I have $20 in bolts invested. Here's pics.

Sharpe
03-20-2005, 08:42 PM
Few more pics.

fbronco86
03-20-2005, 11:14 PM
why are u gonna go with the diesel 6.2?

eight
03-20-2005, 11:23 PM
So what ya gonna do with the sumberbin?

Graystroke
03-20-2005, 11:57 PM
why are u gonna go with the diesel 6.2? probably b/c it is free

Violentv8toy
03-21-2005, 12:10 AM
to mount the springs, build a hanger that welds up to the front of the frame. Thats probably the easiest to mount springs. thats what we did when we made my friends truck a 4wd.

Sharpe
03-21-2005, 12:28 AM
I was in a hurry to make the post earlier and forgot to explain the name. It stands for Big Ugly Truck. After thinking it over awhile, I am renaming Eric's Yota S.L.U.T. for Small & Little Ugly Truck and mine is now B.U.T.T. Big Ugly Truck Thing. Together, we are B.U.T.T. S.L.U.T.

I am using the 6.2 because, as Grayson said, its free. I got it in trade for another truck. The particular engine I am using also has less than 100k on it and is in prety damn good condition overall. In addition, I have 3 extra engines should something bad happen, so no problem there... Finally, it is waterproof and everything that implies, I plan to snorkel this ***** and take it scuba diving.

The suburban is getting returned to stock and sold this summer, and no, not because its too big. I need something that I can tow up to 10k with and I also need a pickup bed for hauling parts all over the state. I have been borrowing my girlfriend's or mom's truck to tow with for awhile and it gets old having to depend on other people. I am in the market for a early 90's chevy or GMC crewcab 4x4.

As far as the spring hangers go, they are already done. For the front ones, I just swapped sides for the hangers in order to put the spring mount in front of the body mount, and drilled the 8 holes needed to mount each one. You can see them in the first pic.

uglyota
03-21-2005, 09:58 AM
I'm still going by Ugly
:flipoff2:

texasxj
03-21-2005, 10:49 AM
what are you going to do w/ the lift for the burb???

Sharpe
03-21-2005, 02:20 PM
Sell it.

AggieTJ2007
03-21-2005, 04:12 PM
why don't you adapt that lift to you but truck

stinger7401
03-21-2005, 05:33 PM
i hope you are going to have more than those 4 bolts holding the engine to the frame.....Hanging the motor on the frame with just those is asking for a problem. The 6.2 is a damn heavy motor.

Sharpe
03-21-2005, 09:24 PM
I'm not going to use the burban lift because I want the longer springs all around, to make it flex better. The factory length front springs are 48" and the ones I'm using are 56". The factory rears are the 56"ers that are now on the front and I will be putting a set of 63"ers in there with some gonzo-crazy shackle setup. I am gonna go look up a pic on coloradok5 of a guy that had 52's in the front, totaly insane flex.

I am not done with the crossmember. I was planning one adding something to bolt to the bottom of the frame, in addition to some bracing from the actual motor mount to the top of the frame to triangulate it.

AggieTJ2007
03-21-2005, 09:27 PM
so when you get finished w/ it you will be the puddle tester whenever we go wheeling, cause that could be some fun, especially somewhere like cibilo

Sharpe
03-21-2005, 09:46 PM
You bet your ass I call first dibs on all waterholes once its done. Maybe "The test stick" would be a better name.

jerryg79
03-21-2005, 10:59 PM
Maybe "The test stick" would be a better name.

You mean like a pap smear? GROSS!

Sharpe
03-21-2005, 11:17 PM
*** dammit is "depth finder" better?

uglyota
03-21-2005, 11:42 PM
I think a two or three character numbering system is the only way you're gonna keep track of all your projects...cute names are just gonna get lost and confused unless you have them placed in some logical order.
Maybe you could talk to your friendly school librarian about how the Dewey Decimal System can be adapted to suit your needs!
:flipoff2:

73bronco
03-22-2005, 12:20 AM
what tranny/trans case are you planning on running?

agjohn02
03-22-2005, 01:06 AM
*** dammit is "depth finder" better?


so's my johnson

Sharpe
03-22-2005, 01:33 AM
what tranny/trans case are you planning on running?
Whatever I can get a good deal on. The truck has a perfectly functional 2wd TH400 in it now so if I can find a divorced 205 that'd be sweet. I would prefer a mated pair though but havent found anything through my hookups so far.

uglyota
03-22-2005, 11:15 AM
search for th400 and texasblake on pirate. I think he swapped around tailshafts on a th400

Sharpe
03-22-2005, 11:31 AM
Hhmmmmm, Blake is a local down in Corpus, I dont know him though. I also have a np205 version th400 but it doesnt work, but methinks a tailshaft swap wouldnt be a bad idea if I could find someone to show me how to do it.

bburris
03-22-2005, 03:55 PM
He's swapping a 4wd TH400 tailshaft and output onto a 2wd BOP pattern TH400 so it will bolt to his Caddilac motor. I think he has also actually had to have an adapter-type plate machined because of length differences and whatnot, but don't quote me on that...

Sharpe
05-14-2005, 11:01 PM
Well I ended up buying a TH400/NP205 combo from a local down in Corpus. I paid $500 for it and it will be my most expensive investment. The tranny has a stage two shift kit in it and less than 2000 miles on it. The NP205 has the 32 spline long input and 6 bolt round adapter mount. Everything's in great shape. Ironically enough, the tranny combo was the one that was originally mounted to the engine I am using, so thats tite. I painted the tranny and adapter and may do the 205 if I get some flap disks, but I probably wont bother painting the 205 till I do a doubler. I am going to twin stick the 205 so that should be fun. Thats all the updates for now.

Sharpe
05-25-2005, 02:11 AM
Today I put the completely refurbished front springs back together, painted the shackels and lengthened the front of the frame to accomodate the relocated front hanger, and have somewhere to mount a bumper. I would threaten to post pics but my computer is about to find its way under the wheel of my goddam truck so it probably wont happen in the near future.

Sharpe
05-26-2005, 11:21 AM
Here are pics of my not-exciting yet excrutiatingly slow progress.

stx4wheeler
05-26-2005, 12:46 PM
did you jsut butt weld that piece to the frame? Arent you attaching your shackle hanger to that, i would think at minimum it should be boxed, but i prolly would have though about fish plating the new frame piece or something along those lines, just my opinion.

Sharpe
05-27-2005, 01:31 AM
Yes, it is just butt-welded. Only one bolt out of eight is going to be attached to the extension on each side and the bumper will still have at least two bolts on the original frame so I'm not too worried about it. Plus I'm a badass welder so that always helps. Actually, welding vertically and upside down with a MIG is hard! I think I got the hang of it though, I just kept welding in creases and grinding it smooth again until it was finally perfectly even with the frame.

Violentv8toy
05-27-2005, 12:39 PM
what me and my buddy did on the rear of my frame was we found some channel that was slightly smaller than the frame and shoved it in there and welded it in place. It would probably have been good for you since those damn front frame pieces are the problem spots.

uglyota
05-30-2005, 05:32 PM
did you "completely refurbish" a 2-leaf spring pack!?

Sharpe
05-30-2005, 05:42 PM
No I kept 4 of the original 7 leaf pack. I will probably have to add another leaf or two to each side because thats what everyone else has had to do but we'll see. The leafs are alternately painted black and silver.

uglyota
05-30-2005, 05:46 PM
The leafs are alternately painted black and silver.
cute :flipoff2:

Sharpe
06-22-2005, 12:11 AM
Here's some progress pics. The first is of the dual alternator'd 6.2 thats going in the truck. I am going to run two seperate electrical systems on the vehicle, one for all the factory stuff, and one for all the accesories. No comments on how rusty the alternator or bracket are, the bracket will get sanded and the alternator replaced before this is operational. I am also going to fab a york bracket, but I'm waiting to see how much room I have left once the fenders are narrowed. The second is the truck as it sits now, with a front axle, resting on the suspension for the first time in over a year. The last is the shackle angle. It is perfect right now, with no engine or tranny. So I am deffinately going to have to add at least one more leaf to each pack. Thats all for now, hopefully tomorow I'll get the motor bolted in place and start fabbing the tranny crossmember.

aggieblazer07
06-22-2005, 12:18 AM
good job :gigem:

Sharpe
06-23-2005, 12:10 AM
Got the engine and tranny set in place today. The engine is bolted in on my baller crossmember and fit perfectly, and the tranny is being supported by the floorjack, and I am going to start on its crossmember tomorow. I was suprised with how well the springs handled the weight of the engine, they squished a little bit more, but they still have a slight arch, and are not flat. I am still going to add another leaf, because the tranny is still supported by the floorjack and I am going to be hanging my 130 pound warn M12000 on the front, as well as the front clip and the future exo-cage.

I was hoping to get started on the tranny crossmember today, but when I was putting the tranny back on the engine, I decided to take the glowplugs out so that I could spin the engine easier in order to put all the flexplate to torque converter bolts in. Well ****, 6 out of 8 glow plugs were mushroomed, one was broken, and one was fine. I could not find a trace of the broken one, so I guess its gone like a fart in the wind. For all the mushroomed ones, I ended up having to brake them off with a hammer, then extract the broken end out of the head with a magnet and needle nose pliers. So that chewed up a good 2 hours. Anyway, here's pics.

william_ace
06-23-2005, 11:00 AM
is that already the 60 out of the suburban? lookin good man!

stx4wheeler
06-23-2005, 03:17 PM
looks good man

Sharpe
06-23-2005, 05:54 PM
Yup that is the suburban's 60. The engine sits about 1" lower than stock, the mechanical fan will hit the crossmember if I try to turn it. I cam going to be running electirc fans anyway so this isnt an issue, but getting the damn fan off is. IT WILL NOT COME OFF!!! I heated it as hot as I dare with the torch and was beating on it with a hammer and it will not budge. It doesnt have the normal slots going outward from the bolts like a normal gas engine fan, it just has holes. For whatever reason, it wont move. Does anyone have any handy dandy fan removal tips? Oliver, are 6.2 fans special? Thanks.

BMFScout
06-23-2005, 08:55 PM
Is there one big nut on the back of the fan? Are those reverse thread?

william_ace
06-23-2005, 09:14 PM
gonna do a turbo or anything like that?

Sharpe
06-23-2005, 11:44 PM
No there's no nut on the back, it has 4 nuts holding it on the front. Will, do you think I would put a $1000+ turbo kit on a free engine? Too much skrilla for this killa.

william_ace
06-24-2005, 12:03 AM
i dunno man, you do alot of stuff that i wouldnt think you'd do. anythings a possability with robert.

uglyota
06-24-2005, 10:02 AM
what's the problem with the fan? You can't get the 4 bolts off? You can't keep it in place while you turn them? Or is it a 1" dia fine thread post like mine and you just can't break it? would it help to drill a hole through the water pump and put a screwdriver through it?

AgDieseler
06-24-2005, 10:50 AM
...do you think I would put a $1000+ turbo kit on a free engine? Too much skrilla for this killa.
You could buy a kit, or you can build a setup yourself for about half that. In any case, enjoy the non turbo power.

Sharpe
06-24-2005, 11:02 AM
On chevy fans, they have four studs around the outside holding the fan onto the waterpump and pulley. On every gas engine fan I've ever seen, they have slots running from the holes to the outside of the fan mounting flange, I dont know why but they do. No, this diesel fan does not have the slots, it is just has holes. Also, chevy fans have a little nipple-stud thing in the middle of the pulley, and I'm guessing that is what the fan is stuck on, but I cant think of any way to get it off. I'm going to mess with it today and will get some pics and report back.

Oliver, if I ever get around to building a fresh engine for this thing, and decide to stick with a 6.2, I'll probably try to piece a turbo kit together, but we'll see. Do you know of any special method to get 6.2 fans off?

jerryg79
06-24-2005, 11:04 AM
Cant you just take off the water pump? Or were you planning on using that nasty one?

Sharpe
06-24-2005, 11:13 AM
I could. Taking thw water pump off a 6.2 is a huge PITA though, it is a plate that covers most of the front of the engine. I might have to anyway though, so we'll see.

uglyota
06-24-2005, 11:13 AM
so why can't you take the nuts off the studs and hit it with a hammer?
or rig up a slide-hammer to yank it off?
my chevy fan is screwed onto the big fine-threaded post I mentioned earlier

Shaggy
06-24-2005, 11:16 AM
it should just be held on with the little nipple... the 7.3 took a few GOOD wacks with the hammer to come off... i dont see why it be too much different

Doug Krebs
06-24-2005, 11:50 AM
the fan on my blazer just has the 4 bolts, no tricks...

AgDieseler
06-24-2005, 02:21 PM
Do you know of any special method to get 6.2 fans off?
You might be having difficulty based on the pulleys. All hummers and some cucvs got a funky set of pulleys with an extra groove. They're a little more difficult to take apart, but I've never had one get stuck. I've pulled fans off all of our diesels - new style, old style, whatever - and have never had a problem with it being stuck, so my advice is somewhat general.

1) Make doubley sure that all four nuts are completely removed.
2) Check for corrosion that may be holding the fan clutch to the water pump.
3) Locate hammer and cold chisel.
4) GENTLY work your way around the flange to free it from the hub.
5) Drink a beer.
6) Repeat as needed.

For reference, this is what I have on my hummer 6.2L:
http://www.oliverdiesel.com/images/haydenfanclutch/haydenclutchinstalled3.jpg

PS: Put on a turbo. The GMx IHI turbos are on ebay for cheap, and you'll never regret it.

Sharpe
06-24-2005, 11:06 PM
Got the fan off today. It took a little dubya-de-fortay and a ****load of brutality with the three pound persuasive device. Oliver, I suppose I may break down and turbo this ***** some day, but for now its not in the budget. Today I also cut the hole in the floor for the shifter, took all the bolts for the bed out (had to grind 5 out of 8 off) and took the saddle tanks out. I need to get some assistance over there to lift the bed off the frame.

Sharpe
07-02-2005, 12:24 AM
This damn tranny crossmember is taking a long time to build. This is what I have at this point. The first two are the basic shape, and the third is a close up of my occasional kickass welding. I am going to add another tube for the actual mount then build a skidplate for the 205 with 1" .188 wall tube and 1/4" plate.

Sharpe
07-15-2005, 12:42 AM
Shes 15 buttholes so back off for now. Anyway here's the current progress pics. I got the tranny crossmember finished and bolted in place. I like the way it turned out but time will tell if I can tolerate how low it hangs. The fourth pic is of the tranny breather that I had to bootyfab because I accidentaly broke the normal one off flush with housing. It is a piece of hard brakeline with a 90 degree bend jb welded flat against the breather hole. The last is my rear suspension mocked up with weight on it.

Sharpe
07-15-2005, 12:44 AM
Couple more of the rear.

mudtoy67
07-15-2005, 12:49 AM
Nice work on the crossmember, that's pretty sweet :gigem:

StevenAg03
07-15-2005, 08:07 AM
are you plannign on running a full bed on that thing? if not why dont you move the springs forward to shorten the wheelbase a bit?

Sharpe
07-15-2005, 10:21 AM
No, I wont be running the bed. I positioned the rear axle so that I would not have to modify my High Angle CV driveshaft from the suburban (58" long). If it really bug the hell out of me, I might go changin it up later, but we'll see. The rear axle is about 1' forward of "stock" position on the frame. That coupled with the front axle moved forward 4" should make for about a burban sized wheelbase. (~130") I know this is long but I plan on running the biggest tires I can afford later so who knows what could happen.

AggieTJ2007
07-15-2005, 04:54 PM
thats one damn long truck, are you going to do anything to the sides so that you can pivot off of trees, rocks ect.. when it wont turn

william_ace
07-15-2005, 05:18 PM
i think hes cutting off 12 or 14" off of the frame, so that should help some

jwingfield2k
07-15-2005, 06:20 PM
That crossmember is real nice playa. See your running the same rear spring hangers as me... hehe.

Sharpe
07-16-2005, 12:43 AM
Actually wingnut, the rear hanger I'm running are off a 2wd, and the ones I sold you are off a 4x4. The 2wd are about 3-4" shorter, which work perfectly for me because I'm running the 3" longer shackles. Creighton, this one will be able to turn because I will be running crossover steering with hydro-assist added later. In any case, I'm keeping the doors to pivot off of for now (Frick style) and will have two bars over the door holes when I exo-cage it later on. The frame will be cut right behind the rear hanger, so about 12" off the back.

Sharpe
07-26-2005, 11:26 PM
I got some work done today. I went ahead an measured the wheelbase, and it taped out at 127." Almost the same as the burban, but with about 2' less overhang in the rear. Today, I got finished welding and painted up the york bracket for the 6.2. I decided to ditch the second alternator idea and instead put the york in its place. I bootyfabbed the brackets out of a few piece of factory brackets I had laying around, and some other misc stuff, but I forgot to get pics. I will get it permanently mounted up tomorow and will get pics then. I also built the dual battery tray that will mount on the firewall. I hope the actual firewall will be able to hold the weight of two batteries, I know my trey will. I also painted my kustom fewl sell. I received my rear drive flange and e-brake from High Angle today so I'll get that and the rear driveshaft mounted tomorow hopefully. Here's pics.

uglyota
07-27-2005, 08:36 AM
looks good robert, but those bolts are gonna rip through the firewall unless you have some serious reinforcement on the back. And it's too long :D
have you tried clamping a piece of angle iron to the metal you're torching to use as a guide?

Sharpe
07-28-2005, 12:04 AM
Screw straight cuts, the ragged edge is part of the vehicle's motif, kinda like, "Yah, thats right *****, I'm on the ragged edge...of falling apart..." Here's the york brackets pics.

Sharpe
07-28-2005, 12:05 AM
One more.

Sharpe
07-31-2005, 09:51 PM
This weekend prety much all I got done was mount the battery tray and build the steering box braces. The tray is attached to the firewall with 5 3/8" G5 bolts and 10 large sheetmetal screws. I put the batteries on and it seems to be fine so we'll see. The steering braces turned out badass! I'll get some better pics when I take them off to paint because they are deffinately worth taking lots of pictures. I stole the basic design from the offroad design brace that I had for the burban, but had to get creative because of the 2wd frame and crossmember.

Sharpe
08-01-2005, 11:42 PM
Here are some crappy close ups of the braces. Also, the gas tank mount and I added a couple more leafs to the front spring packs and now it sits just right.

Graystroke
08-02-2005, 12:14 AM
those braces look like they could be some abstract piece displayed at the local civic center

agjohn02
08-02-2005, 12:22 AM
you must be joking


ive seen those somewhere before

Sharpe
08-02-2005, 12:24 AM
I know. Maybe I can sell em for like $500 each on ebay, that would be badass. See my problem is I've gotten prety good at welding, but I am still lacking in the cutting torch and fitting departments, so most of my projects come out looking like the wavy brace. Oh well, they'll do the job and no one will ever see them.

agjohn02
08-02-2005, 12:43 AM
dont try to free hand it so much. use your other arm to brace against. lay your left hand down on what you are cutting, then lay the torch across your left hand.

mudtoy67
08-02-2005, 01:26 AM
You can also take a piece of angle iron and lay it like an upside down v. then rest your hand lightly on the edge slide to help with long straight cuts.

Project is lookin good!

uglyota
08-02-2005, 10:18 AM
have you tried clamping a piece of angle iron to the metal you're torching to use as a guide?
he already didn't like that idea.
Now replace that stock crossmember that you painted with some tube. It looks way out of place.
and start boxing in your frame :D

Sharpe
08-02-2005, 11:19 AM
I do use the angle iron trick for longer cuts but the wavy bracket started out as a rectangle and i didnt cut it into the angled shape until I had the tubes welded on the end so I couldnt have used the angle iron. I thought about building a new crossmember, but decided not too because after I built the engine and tranny crossmember, I was crossmembered out. At this point, I'm gonna see how well the normal frame holds up and if there are issues, I'll box it.

Sharpe
08-05-2005, 01:49 AM
The big day is getting so close I can taste it! The only major hurdle left is the brake system, and I am waiting on my linelock and proportioning valve to do it. Today, I got a bnuch of little stuff done. Got the fuel tank bracket mounted and the tank set in place. I got the fuel filter bracket, power distribution block and glow plug solenoid mounted on the firewall and the hydroboost system bolted on. Plumbed most of the fuel system, only thing left is fuel return line to the tank. I also put the steering brackets in for good. Tomorow I will be pickin up my cross over steering system so look for that excitement soon!

uglyota
08-05-2005, 11:57 AM
is this thing gonna have a bed? Got your tool/spare storage figured out yet? What's the cage gonna look like? Also, I only see one tank. Where's the veggie oil gonna go? :D

Sharpe
08-05-2005, 12:05 PM
No bed. I was thinking a couple of ammo cans like yours for storage, but I need to find some big enough first. The cage is gonna look like an exo. No veggie oil, since its just a trail truck, I wont be driving it often enough to justify the trouble of the veggie. Plus I want to see all the ways you **** stuff up doing it before I try it. :flipoff2:

uglyota
08-05-2005, 12:07 PM
dude a trail truck is the ideal application of veggie. Just need a few gallons per trip (unlike everyday driving where you would have to track down several gallons a week), and instead of smelling like butthole like most diesels, your exhaust smells like french fries!
I think the ammo cans I have are as big as they get. Not cheap either, like $30 a piece. I think they're 30mm or something weird?

AgDieseler
08-05-2005, 12:32 PM
veggie is pretty simple to setup. just need a thorough filtering system

uglyota
08-05-2005, 01:01 PM
and a warming system

aggieblazer07
08-05-2005, 02:11 PM
my mom got me a couple ammo cans at a flea market in Alfred. They were $10 a peice and she said they had some bigger ones.

Graystroke
08-05-2005, 08:37 PM
if you add some regular diesel 80 veggie/20 diesel mix and mix it well enough (emulsify it) should be fine in the texas heat. If you worried about cold just throw a heater core in the tank and tape the heater lines to the fuel lines.

Sharpe
08-06-2005, 12:09 AM
Goddamit you guys. Now that I'm thinking about it, I will not be using the factory heater, so it would be a cinch to route the lines back to the tank and booty fab a heater. Oh well, that will wait for another day, for now this thing will (hopefully) smell like butthole. Eric, if you paid $30 apiece for ANY ammo can, I salute you for receiving possibly the worst anal ream of all time. I'll probably just use one of the cans from the Burban, they are ****ing huge and will hold anything I should need to take on the trail. I got my brake parts and steering system today so look for some killa pics tomorow!

Graystroke
08-06-2005, 12:18 AM
well, to do it the easy way: get a 12 volt fuel pump and a remote oil filter set up. pour the oil through a cloth filter to get out the big stuff. then use the fuel pump and filter to to get it down to the fine micron stuff. don't filter the crud off the bottom of the containers. leave that for the dog. mix it 80/20 and blend the hell out of it...haven't figured how to blend it was thinking of using a weedeater w/ a prop on it and a shortened shaft like Butler use to have.

73bronco
08-06-2005, 10:14 AM
get one of those paint blenders that fit in your drill

aggieblazer07
08-06-2005, 11:20 AM
just get a little fan blade and put it on the drill

Sharpe
08-07-2005, 02:11 AM
I got the steering installed and some of the brakes done today. The ****ing brakelines are taking as long as I expected, they are all 3/16" lines but use 3 different sized fittings in various places.

Jegs is stupid. I ordered a adjustable proportioning valve and linelock from them and got them on time. Both were Jegs brand. The proportioning valve has 8 AN female thread from the input and output, but it came with two brass fittings to convert the 8 AN to 3/16" double flare, the standard for most brake systems. The linelock also has 8 AN female threads for the input and output, but it didnt come with any adapter fittings. Where is the logic in that? Now I get to go to vato zone and try to find the least useless person there and convince them to let me dig through their fittings, since I really doubt they could tell a double flare from their dick (or twat).

Sharpe
08-08-2005, 11:19 PM
Here's some progress pics. I got most of the brakelines done today, I just need to instal one more. Luckily, the stars aligned and I was able to find a monkey who knew what he was doing at O'reily's and got the conversion fittings for the linelocks, as well as some other fittings that I needed. The power steering is hooked up, and I mod'd the pump to flow more to help whenever I decide to instal my hydro assist. Got the crossover steering put on and the rear driveshaft bolted in. Tomorow I am hoping to finish up the brakelines and wiring, and maybe start with the fluids. I still dont have soft brakelines running to the axles so that is a holdup at this point. Here's pics.

Sharpe
08-10-2005, 12:46 AM
Got the rest of the brakes done today, all I need in that department is to order the soft lines to the axles. I started on the electrical accesories today, I had to cut the **** out of the dash to mount my switch panel. I took all the crap out of the stock ash tray area and mounted my fuse block for the accesories there.

mudtoy67
08-10-2005, 01:56 AM
Everything's looking great! :gigem: Are you planning on using the line lock for park brake or just temporary hold? I prob would have gone with the mechanical type if using for regular park brake. Plumbing would suck, but on a steep hill I would trust it more.

Sharpe
08-10-2005, 10:50 AM
Its just going to be for burnouts and temporary e-brake like when winching. I have a high angle t-case e-brake that is going to be used on the rear so bleed off isnt reall a concern.

mudtoy67
08-10-2005, 11:44 AM
Cool. High angle tcase ebrake? Are you talking High Angle Driveline brand?

Sharpe
08-10-2005, 07:30 PM
Yes

Sharpe
08-12-2005, 11:27 PM
Here's the pic of the high angle 205 flange and e-brake. I put the grill back on so I can hook up the radiator and maybe start this biatch soon. The switch panel is totaly done, I just need to add fuses and find a ground in the cab to screw it to. Look at all them wires and yes I am going to put a grommet in the firewall hole I just havent gotten one yet.

Jackasic
08-13-2005, 12:33 AM
there is waaaay to much progress being made for this to be a tamor project. Keep up the good work.

jwingfield2k
08-13-2005, 07:25 AM
robert, got any front quarter panels you wanna donate?:-D

Sharpe
08-13-2005, 08:33 AM
I have some front fenders that I'll sell to you. I kinda want to keep them but if you make it worth my while it can happen. Brandon, I am unemployed and really have nothing else to do, which results in great progress.

Sharpe
08-13-2005, 11:03 PM
Got the winch mount made today.

Sharpe
08-15-2005, 10:51 PM
What a day what a day. I made my 4th and 5th purchases of $20 or more from Vatozone today and got my free $20 gift card :gigem: . I wired up the in-cab winch controller and it works like a charm. I got the radiator mounted and everything except the oil cooler hooked up, I am having some issues locating fittings to screw into the radiator. I changed the fluid and filters in the tranny and engine, at which time I deduced that you cannot have a catch pan too large when draining a tranny. I took a bunch of tires to get dismounted and get the burban's tires taken off the blingin aluminums and put on the icky steelies. They weigh a goddam ton now, its seriously rediculous. I also finished up the switch panel inside, everything works perfectly except the blue LED for the foglights is burnt out or something. I am *hoping* (knock on wood) to get it started up tomorow, but we'll see. Also, check out my badass steel braided brakelines from speedway motors, a set with 36" long fronts and a 25" long rear, with all the fittings I needed was about $85. Cant beat that and the quality is up there.

agjohn02
08-15-2005, 11:03 PM
does the inside of that spring plate bolt to the pumpkin? no u-bolt?

Sharpe
08-15-2005, 11:24 PM
No u-bolt, that is correct. It uses two 5/8" bolts. I had to make some angled washers to go between the spring plates and the nuts, because I used 6 degree shims to angle my pinion up so then the bolts would not sit flat on the spring plate. They are booty-tastic and I'll get pics tomorow.

AggieTJ2007
08-16-2005, 03:24 PM
well I hope that they are at least grade 8 bolts. that could be a fun trail fix.

The project looks good. Are you going to bring it to College Station in the fall?

Sharpe
08-16-2005, 04:34 PM
Yes, they are grade 8. It will be coming to CS. I cranked it today. Got the fuel system bled but did not have time to actually start it. It wont be trail ready when it gets to CS though, it'll still need shocks, a front driveshaft and misc. other doodads.

uglyota
08-16-2005, 04:44 PM
shocks are for pansies, and you and I both know that driveshaft fabrication is a 2-hour job :D

Don't all leaf sprung D60s use that same style spring perch? Do you think that parts store ubolts are grade 8?

awesome progress man :gigem:

bburris
08-16-2005, 05:56 PM
Don't all leaf sprung D60s use that same style spring perch?
yessir

fbronco86
08-16-2005, 06:35 PM
yessir


Nope fords dont do that

bburris
08-16-2005, 07:49 PM
I was just thinking Chevy since that's what the picture was... My bad.

Sharpe
08-22-2005, 01:32 AM
Well I worked on it all day today but didnt seem to get much accomplished. I cranked the **** out of it today but it still wont start, I think it has air in the injector lines, I'll crack and purge them tomorow and see what happens. I cut the ass end of the frame off, lost about 2' including the stock bumper. I started on my rear attachment point, I was going to use the badass pintle hitch from a CUCV truck, but the truck had other plans. The CUCV parts truck I have is the rustiest ****ing truck you will ever see. I **** you not the goddam thing is flaking apart with rust, literaly. All the springs are completely rusted through, the frame is broken in a few spots, all the shackles are toast, it really is a sight to behold. Anyway, it has a sweet ass pintle hitch setup on the back bumper that I thought would be perfect for the trail truck. the pintle is attached to a 1 1/8" threaded shank that goes through the bumper and a y-yoke to the frame and is held on by one bigass nut, so it can spin 360 degrees. Getting the nut of was fairly painless, the the actual pintle was rusted in solid. I soaked it in liquid wrench from both sides and beat the piss out of it with a hammer. I used a 6' length of pipe to try to turn it and got it to more about 1/4." At that point I decided to use the 400 ft. lbs. of fury in the DD. It didnt work, I dragged the truck about 6' and put a hole in my chain link fence. So I said ****it and decided to go with a receiver hitch.

uglyota
08-22-2005, 02:48 PM
shoulda put the blue tip wrench on it
pintles rock!

AggieTJ2007
08-22-2005, 07:23 PM
i wouldnt give up on it just yet, soak it and heat it. See what happens.

Sharpe
08-23-2005, 12:16 AM
IT LLLLIIIVVVVEEEESSSSSSS!!! The mother ****er actually started today! I bled the air out of the injector lines and cranked and cranked it some more and when I had given up all hope, it roared to life and my shop went from empty to full of smoke in 10 seconds flat (6000 sq. ft.). The sound is incredible, it is remenescnet of a top fuel dragster. I reved it and reveled in the sounds of succes, the truck's first breath of life in 3 years. I shut it off and got out to check everything out and realized I had forgoten to put the tranny modulator in so there was about 1/4 quart of tranny fluid on the ground. No biggie. I also replaced the power steering pump because it had been leaking really bad, and replaced the rear output seal on the t-case. I would go after the pintle some more but I dont have enough time. I am aiming to arrive in CS on friday and there is a ****load more work to be done, building the exhaust mostly, but plenty of other little ****.

Sharpe
08-26-2005, 01:21 AM
Well I tackled 99% of the little **** today. The truck is physically ready to go onto the trailer and move to our new home in the Motherland. I was going to load it up tonight but hit a snag. The ***** wouldnt start tonight. I dont know why, but a few on the injectors were leaking fuel from the fuel return lines, so that was probably it. It sputtered a little bit but I gave up on it. I'm going to get some little bitty hose clamps tomorow and some radiator leak stopper, because it has a pinhole leak in the bottom of the radiator that only leaks when the water is circulating. I am planning on getting to CS tomorow evening, baring catastrophic failure of anything. Here's what it looks like all ready to go.

aggieblazer07
08-26-2005, 02:04 AM
looks good :gigem:

bburris
08-26-2005, 03:01 AM
niiiiiice...

You need to do a little saw action on those fenders, though.

uglyota
08-26-2005, 08:50 AM
looks good :gigem:

niiiiice...
are you guys seeing the same pictures as I am :confused2
I was ready to give up the Ugly Truck title when I saw those
Just kidding I likey. hack about 6" off the bottom of the front of those fenders and she'll be right.
:gigem:

BMFScout
08-26-2005, 09:55 AM
that's one Butt Ugly Truck :)

Sharpe
08-26-2005, 10:00 AM
Fenders already hacked. The 56" springs worked out well. They moved the front axle 4" forward which placed the tire in an almost ideal place in the wheel well. The 36's fit with only that front flap needing to be trimmed with approx 4" of lift.

fbronco86
08-26-2005, 11:04 AM
Fenders already hacked. The 56" springs worked out well. They moved the front axle 4" forward which placed the tire in an almost ideal place in the wheel well. The 36's fit with only that front flap needing to be trimmed with approx 4" of lift.

You might as well take those front frenders off they are going to get beat to crap.

Violentv8toy
08-26-2005, 01:07 PM
you built that truck in the time it takes me to change my plug wires and rebuild an axle. I'm looking forward to this next semester clubwise. good job.

AggieTJ2007
08-26-2005, 11:39 PM
Damn, I cant wait to wheel with that thing

Sharpe
09-01-2005, 06:34 PM
I had to pull it out the side door of my shop cause the axleless burban is blocking the front entrance. Its nestled all cozy in the backyard of my new crib.

uglyota
09-02-2005, 09:27 AM
somebody stole your full-size spare!

Sharpe
09-02-2005, 10:54 AM
Actually if you look to the left of the truck bed in the last pic, you can see the 38" spare. When I made the giant run to the tire place with 3 sets of tires and wheels, I didnt have room for that last spare. There's a pic of my truck loaded down with the tires and wheels somewhere in this thread.

Sharpe
09-08-2005, 11:48 PM
I found a baby picture of the truck. Here it is circa summer of '02.

william_ace
09-09-2005, 01:16 AM
theC20 thingy looks good man. you've done a good job. now polish it up and put some 20s on it

Matt Conlee
09-09-2005, 08:14 AM
That thing looks awesome. Whats your wheelbase? and when can we expect to see it on the trail?

AggieTJ2007
09-09-2005, 09:40 AM
I think this is a TAMOR record for quickest build. It would have taken some people years just to get the axles in.

J Cooper
09-09-2005, 10:15 AM
I think this is a TAMOR record for quickest build. It would have taken some people years just to get the axles in.

you serious?






great job robert

J Cooper
09-09-2005, 10:15 AM
I found a baby picture of the truck. Here it is circa summer of '02.


hey looks its the charlie truck :flipoff2:

Sharpe
09-09-2005, 12:40 PM
My wheelbase is ~127" I know its fairly long for only running 36's but I intend to go as big as possible later on. Truthfull though, the reason the wheelbase is that long is because I located the rear axle so that I would not have to modify my High Angle rear CV shaft from my suburban. I wont be making Alto this weekend with it but I am hoping to be ready for the next trip. Right now all it needs to be trail ready is; Get it running (shouldnt be hard I think it just has air in the injector lines), bleed brakes, build front driveshaft and work out fan situation. I was going to run the dual electric Ford windstar fans from my suburban but I have been told they will not pull enough air to keep the 6.2 cool so I am having to work out the mech fans issue. Since the engine is 1" lower and forward of stock location, the stock fan will hit the crossmember in front of the engine so I am either going to have to run a smaller diameter flex fan, or clearance the crossmember. Thats about it.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-13-2005, 06:18 PM
so what are you gonna do with the suburban? If you want to sell it and its not in to many pieces, or can be put back together, my neighbor may be interested in it.

Sharpe
09-13-2005, 08:06 PM
I am intending to put it back together and sell it. The only thing its missing right now is a set of 3/4 ton axles. Its all disassembled but will be a cinch to put back together.

CRaSHnBuRN
09-13-2005, 09:15 PM
pm me a price, general description, and just what it has so I can tell him about it

Sharpe
10-02-2005, 03:36 PM
Uuhh....did I ever send that info to you? Anyway I've been playin with the truck on the weekends tryin to figure out why it wotn run and I think I've narrowed it down to there being water in the fuel. I left the fuel tank uncovered for two weeks and it got rained on so it must have had some water in there. I filled a gas can with diesel and stuck the feeder hose in it and it prety much fired right up. No I just need to get the water out of the fuel tank. Does anyone know of a local place that does radiators? I am thinking about having one custom built for this thing, cause no one makes new ones big enough for a reasonable price and I want a few things different than stock anyway. The name of the truck is now officially Pigpen. I chose this name because the truck is a pile of **** and it will be my CB handle on the trail too. Think CW McCall and the 70s...

AggieTJ2007
10-02-2005, 04:20 PM
drain the tank, add some heet to it and drain it let it all evaportae

stx4wheeler
10-02-2005, 05:40 PM
pour lots of heet in it, or drain the tank as previously mentioned that heet stuff works good.

Sharpe
10-02-2005, 07:08 PM
I used compressed air to push about 1/2 gallon of water/diesel mix out of the bottom of the tank. I also bought another Everstart battery from wally world for $30 because the Interstate that was in there was a piece of crap. It starts righ up now. I also bought some *****in little lights for $15 to use as rock lights, but one of them didnt work so I gotsta take em back tomorow.

CRaSHnBuRN
10-02-2005, 08:30 PM
nope, you never did. But thats allright cause I haven't talked to him since then anyway

CRaSHnBuRN
10-02-2005, 08:48 PM
if you want some cheap lights for rocklights, check out www.summitracing.com The part # is SUM-G6272. These are the lights I'm running on my buggy, and they are pretty nice. Metal housings, full wiring harnesses with switches and relays, all for 11 bucks.

AgDieseler
10-02-2005, 11:54 PM
I used compressed air to push about 1/2 gallon of water/diesel mix out of the bottom of the tank. I also bought another Everstart battery from wally world for $30 because the Interstate that was in there was a piece of crap. It starts righ up now. I also bought some *****in little lights for $15 to use as rock lights, but one of them didnt work so I gotsta take em back tomorow.
Nicely done. :gigem:

Sharpe
10-25-2005, 11:52 AM
Took it to Gilmer this weekend. Come to find out a 4 hour away trip isnt the best idea for a first adventure. Problems were as follows (I may have forgoten one or two so those that were present post up anything I missed);

HUGE rear main seal leak, I lost about 1/2 a quart in half an hour of driving
Clogged PCV valve
****ed up alternator-dash gauge read 7 volts one minute and 20 the next and batteries never received a charge
No bump stops or shocks caused truck to buck violently on washboard roads and front suspension to constantly bottom out on engine crossmember
I didnt cut the hole for the t-case shifter big enough so when the t-case is in 4 low the shifter is on the body, and when everything twists it moves the shifter to front wheel drive/grinding noise
Still need to fix fenders so passenger side door cab be opened
It wouldnt engage the starter at all when we were trying to load it on the trailer
Ended up having to winch it, but my wires for the in cab winch control had gotten caught on the rag joint and wrapped around the steering shaft, causing a wicked pissah short and consequently the in cab control didnt work. The remote wouldnt work either until I disconnected the in cab control leads from the solenoids, that was kinda wierd
The tranny wouldnt shift outta first, but that was probably because the modulator isnt hooked up

I think that about sums it up. Of all things, the square tube front driveshaft performed like a champ. The looks on peoples' faces as we drove by with me at the back of the pack driving the clanky diesel that was smoking like it was on fire were the best part of the trip for me.

agjohn02
10-25-2005, 12:04 PM
long maiden voyages are cool. the scouts was a 300 mile trip towing a boat overloaded with all my crap in it when i moved to s texas. maiden offroad trip was a four hour drive to gilmer. no problems.

RRDH beotch

maybe you should double check your work? :flipoff2:

AggieTJ2007
10-25-2005, 12:04 PM
it was fun to see on the trail, and when it had full 4wheel drive it crawled like a champ

BMFScout
10-25-2005, 12:37 PM
get the bugs ironed out and bring that hooker to Clayton. You can show the trail klogger up!

KrazyKarl02
10-25-2005, 10:22 PM
No one will shower the trail klogger up, he doesn't even have a pipe rack!

Sharpe
11-12-2005, 02:59 PM
Got the front shock mounts made today. Also, last weekend at my shop I was taking some parts off the banks turbo parts truck and discovered this little pleasant suprise.

73bronco
11-12-2005, 03:14 PM
Now all you have left to do is make the pile run :flipoff2:

Sharpe
11-12-2005, 06:15 PM
Got the CB installed too.

AggieTJ2007
11-12-2005, 07:45 PM
well now replace that 6.2 w/ the turbo 6.5

Sharpe
12-04-2005, 02:32 AM
Got the motor pulled today. I got the pan off and nothing appears to be in bad shape. The pan was clean as a whistle on the inside and every moves ok. I'm just gonna do the pan gasket and rear main seal. I also want to replace the waterpump with a high flow one I got from oliver, but the impeller on the high flow one hits the plate that bolts onto the back of the pump, so I'm gonna have to figure out what to do about that tomorow. Here's pics from today.

73bronco
12-05-2005, 02:17 AM
looks like you got some crap in that oil pump

Sharpe
12-06-2005, 12:51 PM
Here's what I did yesterday. I found that one of my fusable links is melted, what could cause this? I will venture to guess that this is why it would not even make the starter click at gilmer when I was trying to load it on the trailer. Also, hows this bearing look? Its the rear main cap. Also, is the seal surface on the crank supposed to look like this? Thanks.

Sharpe
12-06-2005, 05:40 PM
Today I noticed that the fusible link connected to the starter melted the loom around it, and I assume its not supposed to do that. Its not burned all the way through like the other one though. Could they both be fubar'd from cranking on the engine for long periods of time? I've been having to do that alot to get it started and blleding the fuel system.

CheapJeep
12-06-2005, 05:53 PM
Just sounds like the loom's getting too hot due to excessive cranking which in turn caused it to melt. It shouldn't do that IMO. Couldn't you just pick up two new links and go from there?

agjohn02
12-06-2005, 08:14 PM
id put bearings in there since its apart. that crosshatch pushes the oil back into the seal. supposed to not leak as much. get rid of the link, put a real fuse in there.

Sharpe
12-06-2005, 11:17 PM
Never took motor apart, just took pan and rear cap off to do the seal. Its all back together now and will be going back into the truck tomorow. I would just replace them with normal fuses but I have no idea what size fuse to use. I might just put two new links on and go from there.

eight
12-07-2005, 12:11 AM
Well then how do you know what size of fusible links to use?

Sharpe
12-07-2005, 12:45 AM
No. Thats what napa counter monkeys are for.

agjohn02
12-07-2005, 12:36 PM
think about what you just said...

Sharpe
12-07-2005, 04:35 PM
Here's what I did yesterday. Havent done anything today because of the weather but will buckle down tomorow. I shaved an inch off the bottom of the engine crossmember and plated it, and made some bump stop brackets. Also got the shock towers bolted on and the shocks installed. Went ahead and cleaned up the wiring as much as possible.

uglyota
12-07-2005, 04:38 PM
what'd you use for the bushings on your engine mounts?

Sharpe
12-07-2005, 05:55 PM
1.5" poly spring bushings.

Sharpe
12-09-2005, 11:40 PM
Got the motor most of the way back in today. After taking the motor off the engine stand and hoisting it in the air, I noticed the oil pan that I put on was different, much different. Different enough that it would not clear my engine crossmember. FAWK!! Had to replace it with original pan, and it took a whole lot of wiggling just to get the motor connected to the tranny, I didnt even get the motor mount bolts in. Tomorow's gonna be a loonnggggg day.

Sharpe
12-11-2005, 02:44 AM
I found out the "different" oil pan was from a hummer so thats why it wouldnt fit. Anyway, today I got alot done. I got the motor 100% in and hooked up. Only thing left to do is coolant and a little bracket to mate the tranny shifter cable to the tranny. I bought the shifter used and it didnt come with the bracket. I've made two different ones, and neither was the right length from the pivot point on the tranny to the pivot point on the end of the cable, so they wont shift into all the gears. The passenger side door now opens too. I got my power steering cooler hooked up, for some reason this was the most exciting part of my day. It fit like it was made for the truck (it might have been, I found it in the bed of a truck at Gordons). I also replaced the solenoid on the starter, and put a new radiator in. I might make it to 47 tomorow, we'll see how much I can get done in the morning and if it actually starts like a good mother****ing piece of ****.

Sharpe
12-12-2005, 12:01 AM
Today, I didnt do much. I got my aftermarket gauges installed. They came from a parts truck in case you're wondering. After that, I built a rack to mount my ammo can and high lift jack over the gas tank, and leave the space between the tank and spare tire for an icechest.

robertf03
12-12-2005, 12:48 AM
Well then how do you know what size of fusible links to use?

2 gauge sizes smaller than the wire its protecting. Never seen fusible links rated to fail at a specified amperage.

bburris
12-12-2005, 04:01 AM
TThey came from a parts truck in case you're wondering.
No way.

CRaSHnBuRN
12-12-2005, 04:05 AM
so have you actually started it yet?

73bronco
12-12-2005, 06:38 AM
so have you actually started it yet?

hahaha, hell no he hasnt. Busy worrying about mounting the high lift and ammo can instead of doing something that might actually mean the difference from being able to take it to clayton or not :gigem:

CRaSHnBuRN
12-12-2005, 07:19 AM
hahaha, hell no he hasnt. Busy worrying about mounting the high lift and ammo can instead of doing something that might actually mean the difference from being able to take it to clayton or not :gigem:


what about you? You're going, right? Everything ready?

stx4wheeler
12-12-2005, 08:37 AM
did you notch your floor so you can get it into 4wd as well yet?

73bronco
12-12-2005, 10:23 AM
what about you? You're going, right? Everything ready?


just have to put the spool in tomorrow and rewire my rocklights

Sharpe
12-13-2005, 02:45 AM
Got the floor chopped today and all the loose crap tied up. Mario came over and gave me a hand with the hood, as well as mounting my spare tire. Using nothing more than my truck, a piece of pipe and a piece of rebar mario was able to remove the old 10 ply 31 and put on the new 38. It was rather impressive. I also cranked it a little. Didnt start quite yet but tried to a few times. The batteries were dead so they're chargin now. Here's pics.

eight
12-13-2005, 07:06 AM
You try starting fluid? You're probably gonna need some in clayton even if you do get it starting good here.

Sharpe
12-13-2005, 11:13 AM
Starting fluid bad for diesel! I've actually heard it isnt that bad as long as you dont use the glowplugs, but if you use it and the glowplugs, cracked pistons, bent pushrods and all kinds of other carnage can result. My glowplugs are all new so they work, I think my fuel system still has air in it and my motor doesnt have very good compression.

AgDieseler
12-13-2005, 11:30 AM
You try starting fluid? You're probably gonna need some in clayton even if you do get it starting good here.
Yeeeeeaaaaaah, that's a real bad idea.

KrazyKarl02
12-13-2005, 11:36 AM
A very very conservative amount of starting fluid will not hurt. I stress conservative!

eight
12-13-2005, 07:03 PM
If it was bad I'd have killed something by now. Or I would know somebody that had killed one by now. Remove that warning sticker and it'll be OK. Or you can put a rag over the intake and drip gasoline onto it, but the starting fluid works better.

Sharpe
12-13-2005, 07:31 PM
Well I dont have to do any of that crap now. I bled the fuel system and there was alot of air in the injector lines. I bled them while just cranking the engine, then bled them with the engine running and as far as I can tell, all cylinders are in good working order. It still vibrates a bit but its probably just the poly bushing motor mounts. I let it run for about 20 minutes and drove it around, engine runs good and the tranny kinda shifts now. I ended up hooking the vacuum pump directly to the vacuum modulater on the tranny. It shifts really soft but I'll order an adjustable modulator after clayton. The now tranny cooler/formerly engine oil cooler aparently had a little oil left in it, I checked the tranny fluid level and it left black streaks on the towel so I guess I'll change the fluid tomorow. I wish my pan had a damn drain plug. Only problem really is that it doesnt turn all the way to the left, because the draglink is too long. It can turn right like a mofo though. A few more little things tomorow and we'll be good to go.

eight
12-13-2005, 07:39 PM
You can get a drainplug kit at any auto parts store. I have one on dodge transmission.

Sharpe
12-13-2005, 07:56 PM
Is it a weld on bung and a plug? Can I do it with a MIG?

eight
12-13-2005, 08:01 PM
You drill a hole, then install plug housing thing. No welding.

Sharpe
12-13-2005, 08:09 PM
Ok cool thanks.

AggieTJ2007
12-13-2005, 11:46 PM
sounds good, and it is running too

davido
12-14-2005, 02:50 PM
Where did you pickup that ammo box? Also, if you order one of those isolators, let me know. I still need to get one. I'll order with you.

Sharpe
12-14-2005, 05:20 PM
A gun show. Ok, we'll see. Garret just told me he has an isolator I can have so I'm gonna try that and if it doesnt work I'll probably order one of those.

CRaSHnBuRN
12-14-2005, 06:00 PM
Where did you pickup that ammo box? Also, if you order one of those isolators, let me know. I still need to get one. I'll order with you.

I think I may have seen one that size the last time I was at the army surplus store near campus. If not, rugged outfitters normally has a few of the larger ones

Sharpe
01-19-2006, 02:55 PM
Ok in my grand sceme to make pigpen street legal, the biggest obstacle is going to be mouting tail lights and the rear license plate. The license plate needs to have a light on it, which is another obstacle. The biggest problem is mounting everything so that it wont get damaged on the back of pigpen on the trail. I Was thinking, pount the tail light and license plate assembly on a removeable rack that I can slide into the rear receiver hitch for street driving, and remove it once I get to the trail so it doesnt get damaged. What do yall think?

uglyota
01-19-2006, 02:58 PM
if I were you I'd wait a couple days and see how the Ugly truck does it. I hear that guy's got something cool in mind :D

davido
01-19-2006, 03:17 PM
I was going to say ask Eric, or go hot rod style and french them in to your cab. Stacy just did a "How to French Your License Plate into your Tailgate" on Trucks last weekend. That would be fly. :D The other option is just to mount them inside the frame rail. Run some steel on the top and bottom to box it in a little if you think it's necessary.

Sharpe
01-19-2006, 05:15 PM
I thought about mounting the lights on the back of the cab but I dont know how visible they'de be to beercan cars. I am using a set of lights off a parts truck that are like the factory TJ ones. I would just mount them like Eric, but my spare tire takes up the entire area on the back part of the frame. One way or the other the license plate is probably gonna have to be mounted on the receiver hitch though.

uglyota
01-19-2006, 05:36 PM
welcome to teh suck of trying to figure out how to carry a spare on a short vehicle while maintaining your visibility
you should bungee cord some stock corner lights to the spare :D

AggieTJ2007
01-19-2006, 05:47 PM
hey ive got you a free vacum modulator thingy

davido
01-19-2006, 06:03 PM
Mount the plate in the middle of the tire.

Shaggy
01-19-2006, 07:29 PM
zip tie it to the frame... it is how i have mine on my bronco... and i have no advice for the lights

agjohn02
01-19-2006, 09:18 PM
use trailer lights. one of them will even have a mount and light for a license plate.

Reckless
01-19-2006, 09:49 PM
hey ive got you a free vacum modulator thingy

Free my ass, and its adjustable

AggieTJ2007
01-19-2006, 10:10 PM
ok rowdy says $10

texasxj
01-20-2006, 04:07 PM
heres a blingen set up for ya

http://www.texas4x4.org/showthread.php?t=8517

Sharpe
01-20-2006, 04:57 PM
Goddam Jegs...Amanda got me a Optima group 31 yellow top battery for x-mas and when she ordered it was backordered till Jan 25ish. She just checked today and they bumped the delivery date to APRIL 23. THREE ****ING MONTHS. She checked Summit and they are out too but said they'd be getting some in at the begining of Feb, and can have one to me by the 2nd week of Feb. Still too late for the Katemcy trip though. I guess I'll try warrentying my new Walmart cheapo and hope it'll last through the trip by itself, since the old one doesnt appear to be worth ****.

uglyota
01-20-2006, 05:00 PM
batteriesareus.com

Sharpe
01-20-2006, 05:10 PM
They're sold out too. They have the screw top terminal ones but not the normal post type.

eight
01-20-2006, 05:17 PM
Seems optimas are crap now. The yellow walmart batteries are lasting longer.

uglyota
01-20-2006, 05:42 PM
get one of those cool ones that Feller's got. You can run 2 bolts right through them!

TxCruzr
02-03-2006, 12:00 PM
Goddam Jegs
I learned not to order from jegs unless noone else in the world has it. Summit has all of the same parts they do and the same price, at most its a dollar or two off. Last time I ordered something it was like $10 and they added $20 worth of gay fees becaues of their homo-gayŠ free shipping :rolleyes: Summit has the same type of shipping gay charges but not as retarded.

BTW, Kick ass sticker, fook the guys that don't think so :flipoff2:

Sharpe
02-03-2006, 04:14 PM
Ok lets get past the sticker you bastards. I put a brand new optima red top in today and it fired up immediately. Even while it was still cold it hardly smoked at all, I think all the crud from sitting has worked itself out. I discovered I need a new alternator and maybe power steering pump, and also need to change my tranny fluid again cause it still has motor oil in it. The PDC vavle still needs to be replaced, but I've known about that for awhile. This semester I also intend to make a good fan shroud to mount my windstar fans to, build half doors, and fix my gaping hole in the floor.

Sharpe
02-05-2006, 04:56 PM
And maybe build a snorkel and make it street legal.

Sharpe
02-09-2006, 06:32 PM
Well Jegs made my day today, when I got home there was a bigass yellowtop battery sitting by my front door! This is intriguing though, for starters Jegs said it would be backordered till mid April, secondly, Amanda allegedly cancelled the order from Jegs and moved it to Summit. Oops. Anyway here's pics of the big *****.

CheapJeep
02-09-2006, 08:02 PM
Nice.

AggieTJ2007
02-09-2006, 08:10 PM
think one of those would fit in the jeep?

CheapJeep
02-09-2006, 08:17 PM
That's a good question, I made a new battery tray for my red top. What's the difference between the two?

Sharpe
02-09-2006, 08:50 PM
About 2-3" width. This one is longer but narrower than normal ones. The cells on this thing are staggered, rather interesting. I dont know how batteries mount in jeeps sp you're on your own.

Sharpe
03-12-2006, 02:18 PM
I got my new high amp alternator in today. In case you are wondering, its a GM CS144. I came stock on early and mid 90's cadillacs and some trucks, maybe pontiacs too but I'm not sure. They are 120 amp and sell for cheap on ebay or you can get one from Gordon's for $45, I found at least 4 the other day. You have to change the wiring pigtail but its a cinch. It is a little bigger than my old alternator, but I just loosened all the bracket bolts and tensioned the belt, then tightened them up and it seems to work great. I also started on my half doors. I was worried about the inner door handle issue because the handle was up in the area I wanted to cut out and is connected to the latch with a rod, not a cable. I figured out the rod has enough play in it I could relocate the handle down towards the middle of the door and was even able to use an existing threaded hole. I might try to put some kind of covered storage box inside the door, dont want all that space to go to waste.

DRAGOONRANCH
03-12-2006, 04:35 PM
Great job on the doors, how you gonna finish 'em out?

Doug Krebs
03-12-2006, 06:07 PM
Great job on the doors, how you gonna finish 'em out?

Ice+beer... might need to add some kinda insulation to make the ice last longer. Don't forget to open the drainholes back up!

Sharpe
03-13-2006, 01:03 AM
An icechest in the door would be tits. I'm probably just going to get a sheet of 16 gauge steel and make a little box that goes inside the big empty space, then cover the rest of the area around it and make a latchable lid for it. God I need to paint that damn thing. Doug, can I drop the tube for my steering off with you tomorow?

BMFScout
03-13-2006, 01:29 AM
I'd lose the butt connector on the charging wire. At least check it out and see if it is getting hot right there. Big alternator likes big wires.

Sharpe
03-13-2006, 02:05 AM
I put the spade terminals in there so I can put the old wiring pigtail back on if I need to in an emergency. I have 10 gauge wire running directly from the screw post to the battery so I'm hoping that will be sufficient to handle the power.

Sharpe
03-13-2006, 04:10 PM
Well 4 hours and thousands of tackwelds later the driver's side door is done. I am so damn tired of tack welding and grinding the passenger side will probably have to wait a long damn time. Even on the lowest setting it was hard not to burn through this **** with a hobart 140.

BMFScout
03-13-2006, 04:33 PM
was it windy?

agjohn02
03-13-2006, 04:47 PM
why do the passenger side? you dont need to lean out there. just leave it till your bored one day.

Sharpe
03-14-2006, 12:33 AM
was it windy?
Que?


why do the passenger side? you dont need to lean out there. just leave it till your bored one day.
My thinking exactly.

Note: Laying tackwelds with a mask wasnt working very well so I did the entire project with no face protection and after waking up this evening I look like a junky. My eyes are hella red and my face is too.

agjohn02
03-14-2006, 12:38 AM
Que?






mig's dont work well when its windy. the wind blows the argon away from the weld.

Sharpe
03-14-2006, 01:57 AM
Nah it wasnt particularly windy today. I think I am going o put some bondo over the rougher areas to smooth them up a little bit.

Fredo
03-14-2006, 02:41 AM
wow,and I thought that truck looked like **** before! :flipoff2:

BMFScout
03-14-2006, 09:20 AM
Nah it wasnt particularly windy today. I think I am going o put some bondo over the rougher areas to smooth them up a little bit.

even if there is a slight breeze the argon will get blown away and it will be easy to make it look like ****/blow through.

CheapJeep
03-15-2006, 04:31 PM
Note: Laying tackwelds with a mask wasnt working very well so I did the entire project with no face protection and after waking up this evening I look like a junky. My eyes are hella red and my face is too.

Can we say dumbass? You've been hanging around me too long...I've burned my eyes way too many times. :flipoff2:

BTW- Those doors kickass. Nice job. :gigem:

davido
03-17-2006, 04:38 AM
Looks good. I'm lazy. I would have just removed the doors. :)

Sharpe
03-17-2006, 11:27 PM
I thought about just taking the doors off but thats an awful big area for a rock to jump into my lap while wheeling. Since chebies dont have the little rocker lip like jeeps and fj's do having something between me and protruding rocks is a conforting feeling.

Sharpe
03-20-2006, 04:24 PM
Well I scored a set of suburban captains seats over the break so they will hopefull be going in this weekend. I also intend to sand down all the rust spots and repaint them, but I will be using silver so look for the dalmation at katemcy. The only other thing I want to do before the trip is steering, I have all the components I just need to tap it and put it all together.

Sharpe
03-27-2006, 04:00 PM
I got the captains chairs in before the trip to 47 last weekend and they fit extremely well. The front outside feet of the seats bolted to the factory bench hole with no mods, and the both rear feet of both seats had to be bent 90 degrees, then the outside ones bolted into the factory holes but I had to drill holes for the inside ones. I had to make a couple of small brackets for the front inside feet but all in all it was extremely painless and easy. Now I just need to find some neoprene seat covers since the factory clotch is shredded.

Pigpen kicked major ass at 47. Everything went smoothly and worked properly but my tranny has started slipping, luckily I have a spare back home. The current one just needs to last through katemcy. My alternator belt broke which affirmed my suspicion that my crank and or water pump pullies are bent, the belt vibrates alot when the motor is running and I already have a couple of replacements on the way. It flexed extremely well and I got a few dents too. I got the driver's side and roof painted silver and will hopefully get the rest painted this week. I'll post pics later.

CheapJeep
03-27-2006, 05:16 PM
Pigpen did kick some ass yesterday I must say. I hate you and your wheelbase... :flipoff2: The paint looks pretty cool, like a huge thing of Reynolds foil.

TMatheaus
03-27-2006, 08:25 PM
Everything went smoothly and worked properly but my tranny has started slipping

put some lucas in it to help you/it make through tcc

Sharpe
03-27-2006, 09:30 PM
Yah I was trying to remember what the magic stuff is to make a tranny last a little longer. I will deffinately do that.

mudtoy67
03-27-2006, 11:51 PM
Yah I was trying to remember what the magic stuff is to make a tranny last a little longer. I will deffinately do that.

Make sure you get the stuff Lucas makes specifically for slipping transmissions...

in case you weren't already thinking that :gigem:

Fredo
03-27-2006, 11:53 PM
if their tranny additive is anything like their oil additive you can't go wrong. I've got a 345 that proves the worth of Lucas..hehe.

Sharpe
04-03-2006, 12:40 AM
Tranny aditive worked ok. The Oliver clan concluded I might have a cracked piston, but that aint no thang. :mad:

AggieTJ2007
04-03-2006, 12:42 AM
maybe you should just put that 6.5 w/ a turbo in there

Sharpe
04-03-2006, 12:42 AM
Sold it for $1200 but thanks for playing.

AggieTJ2007
04-03-2006, 12:43 AM
ahh, well don't you have another 6.2 laying around

Sharpe
04-03-2006, 12:46 AM
Not that are in any better condition, but if I can develop a process for reversing the effects of rust I might be in business.

william_ace
04-03-2006, 01:00 AM
so what you gonna do?

tigweld
04-03-2006, 07:43 AM
switch to a big block, doesn't it fit right in?

jerryg79
04-03-2006, 07:46 AM
Tranny aditive worked ok. The Oliver clan concluded I might have a cracked piston, but that aint no thang. :mad:

Dang that thing is purdy!

Sharpe
04-03-2006, 08:14 AM
I will keep the current 6.2 until I find another one within my price range.

uglyota
04-03-2006, 09:36 AM
How could your other ones be in worse shape? Sounds to me like it's time for you to learn how to rebuild a motor.

william_ace
04-03-2006, 11:32 AM
I will keep the current 6.2 until I find another one within my price range.

so what would that be, free or have someone pay you to haul it off :flipoff2: jk maybe theres somthin at the lot

AgDieseler
04-03-2006, 01:21 PM
A piston costs about $35. A rod will cost about the same. A full gasket set is about $100. I'd bet the heads are in good-enough shape.

It's Pigpen, just replace the offending piston, and barring any futher internal destruction, call it good.