Car Stereo Advice

[JB]

The stock stereo in my F150 blows donkey balls. I turn it up all the way and I could still have a conversation with the person next to me. Not too cool. I have never cared to mess with stereo stuff, b/c it has always been satisfactory, until now.

From looking through Crutchfield, and talking to some shops, it seems like the best place to start would be an amplifier for the stock setup. I have been told that stock speakers can handle alot more. Is this true?

What brands of amp would you guys recommend? How many watts do I need to go to each speaker? I eventually want to replace the stock speakers with better ones (components?) and a good head unit (I like the Kenwood ddx7015)

I am also anal and would like all the components of the system(amp, speakers, head unit) to be from the same brand.

Suggestions?

[aggieblazer07]

I would replace the actual stereo first. You would be suprised at how much better stock speakers sound when they actually have enough power supplied to them.

[Sharpe]

I like crossfire amps and speakers.

[fbronco86]

i would update the head unit first too.

[TxCruzr]

I would replace the actual stereo first. You would be suprised at how much better stock speakers sound when they actually have enough power supplied to them.

I agree. With my high quality $9.99 wallyworld speakers and an old beat to hell radio I had to have it cranked up all the way to try to hear it going down the highway. Now with a blingity new stereo I can crank it up half way and hear it fine hauling down the road with the dump open. Also has better bass to loosen up the rust :gigem:

[ishbo03]

yea i would replace the head unit first as well. with a decent one, you will be able to get around 50x4 watts max to each speaker which is alot better than what the stock radio can put out. then once u get tired or blow the stock speakers, u can replace those with some aftermarket ones. i bought a panasonic head unit from crutchfield that has lasted me 6 years with no problems yet. i also replaced all my stock speakers with polk audio also from crutchfield. they arent the best but crutchfield had a buy one get one free deal going so i did it and havent had any problems yet.

[RCcola55]

just like everything else it depends on how bread ur willing to spend, for the money pioneer and infinity are good component speakers and u should use a 400x4 amp and thats gonna be all the mids and highs u can handle, now as for subs the JL w3 is ur best bet and run like 500w to that and ur truck willl sound badass

[JB]

400w x 4?? Damn I can not find an amp more than 125x4

I just bought a head unit out of a Lariat, so it has mp3 and 6 disc. I'll replace the head unit eventually, but if I was looking for an amp for the speakers, preferably small in size and self cooled, what might I look for?

I like Infinity. They have a 111w x4 and a 56w x4 for $300-400

JL has a 75x4. Does JL make quality amps?

[RCcola55]

JL amps are the best in my eyes, also PPI and Pheonix Gold JL makes a 400x4 so does mtx and kicker

[ishbo03]

i have a precision power 4x80 and am happy with it so far. as for the subs, i just bought the new jl audio 12w1v2, it is a higher end w0 and it slams really hard. i have 2 in a single cab chevy with a 320 watt amp and its all i need.

[Graystroke]

just get a decent 4 channel amp (25~30watt per channel). you may pull the speakers and take a look at the ohm rating. I know GM's Bose systems have whacked out ohm ratings. Some are in the neighborhood of 32 ohms. Don't have any experience w/ ford stuff. Make sure the amp has a built in crossover. This will go a long way if you can control the gain and the frequencies going to the speakers. You then can get that clean sound at high volume levels. Also check out the amps Thd rating. the lower the better..cleaner sound. You want to look at RMS ratings as well. Peak watts are just that, Peak.
I have an Alpine V12 amp in my suburban that was in it when I bought it. Seems to be a pretty high-end amp. I think it is around 75 watts per channel. I have JL audio 6.5" drivers in the rear door w/ crossovers and component JL's in the front doors. Some kind of Kenwood MP3 head unit. It thumps pretty good for only having 6.5" speakers, even better now that I tuned it. I believe the guy before had a sub and was filtering out all the lows. This will all change when I Daisy chain another Alpine amp w/ the 10" Infinity sub I just bought. They are on sale at Crutchfiled for 59 bucks. What to ya'll see my kickass sub box made from 3/4" solid core Red Oak Veneer Plywood. The joys and perks of working in the hardwood business.
To some up my advice:
Buy a 4 channel amp and speakers to replace the the OEMS. Speakers are cheap for the upgrade in sound vs. dollar

[DRAGOONRANCH]

This is how you are supposed to set your **** up. (http://www.break.com/index/loud_music_causes_chicks_eye_to_pop_out.html)

[robertf03]

18713

bought some bang for the whip down at the local stereo shop

whats a good amp to use with these? Factory dead head receiver

[eight]

I needed some 4s the other day ago and couldn't find any, made some 4x6s fit.

Looks like they're rated for 35 watts RMS. I would find a name brand amp that is 25x4 RMS and has high level inputs. You going to add a sub too?

[robertf03]

already got a sub and amp. RF Punch 300 and Blaunpunk 12"

[Fredo]

Flem, I have a JBL amp that would probably be perfect for those. Its yours if you want it.

[robertf03]

Sweet. Think Shawn would do a disco headliner?

[Sharpe]

What's next? Dubs?:flipoff2:

[Fredo]

Yes, I'm sure he would....if you take it out first. I doubt he wants to disassemble a rover.

[Hot Pocket]

You'd be wasting your money buying an amp for those speakers. 35 rms isnt a lot of power, and most aftermarket head units will put out at least 30 rms. Save the coin, and just run the 4's off the head unit. If you havent bought a head unit yet, try to find one with a preout for the sub so you can hook up your amp/sub combo easily. This will also give you better sound quality overall.

I like JBL a lot, I'm ordering some of their marine speakers for the bronco soon.

[robertf03]

is a dead head unit. It needs a 4 channel amp anyway.

I've got a ****ty amped head unit in there now with the preamps out to the punch, but the factory one should be getting here soon from the rebuilder and rather than going to pick and pull and getting a factory LR amp that uses common grounds for the speakers I'd rather put something ethnic in its place.

[robertf03]

What's next? Dubs?:flipoff2:

can't find any steel twinkies in 5 on 6.5

[Sharpe]

Check Rent-A-Rim

[Seth]

You'd be wasting your money buying an amp for those speakers. 35 rms isnt a lot of power, and most aftermarket head units will put out at least 30 rms. Save the coin, and just run the 4's off the head unit . . . This will also give you better sound quality overall.

Slow down there turbo.

Flem has already explained why he needs an amp, but I feel compelled to clear the air a little further.

1 - Most aftermarket head units don't push 30 watts RMS. I would be impressed with 20, seems 14-18 is the norm.

2 - You want to run the maximum rms wattage possible to those little guys, with as litttle THD as possible, which an amp will always do better. Distortion is their biggest enemy.

3 - Funny that you reccomend a preout for sound quality, but discount the dedicated amp.

4 - 35 watts RMS is more power than most folks realize. Blame 1000 watt amps running at 1 ohm or less or THD greater than 1% with SN ratios in the 70s.

5 - The crossover on an amp will be much better (12-24 db/octave) than whatever is built in to a headunit or inline bass blockers will provide. Again, vital on a small speaker.

6 - Lastly, don't forget to pay attention to the input test voltage on equipment. Most have moved to 14.4, which is greater than what your car will be producing normally.

[RCcola55]

If you dont grab freds amp, call lance and tell him he owes you one.

[Seth]

get lances and i take freds! :)

[NealtheDestroyr]

Ive got a 300w amp if anyone wants it

[eight]

I want it. Won't be making it up to Bryan though. Somehow I ended up with lots of subs and no amps, would like to put one in the dodge again.

I have a kicker 25i in the jeep. It is 25x2 RMS. I have had aftermarket stereos that claim greater power but none are as loud or sound as good.

Back in the day I had a Punch 150HD. Then a 300 watt Linear. When tested they both put out about 4 times their rating. Been thinking of asking Flem to fix the Linear.

[robertf03]

Back in the day I had a Punch 150HD. Then a 300 watt Linear. When tested they both put out about 4 times their rating. Been thinking of asking Flem to fix the Linear.

bad idea, while reading this I thought to myself "what the hell is a linear"

besides, I don't shine shoes no more



now I've got the headliner out to get the whale foreskin applied and I'm thinking that while I'm at it I should add an XM antenna. Do any stores have those, or is that internet mail order only stuff?

[TdmayfieldIV]

The sea shepherds have really ****ed the whale foreskin market.

[robertf03]

its really alaskan pollock, but they dye it to look like whale

[robertf03]

this stuff gives some nasty paper cuts

18719

[TdmayfieldIV]

Hope you never have to remove that. I have two strips in the back of the bronco that I can't get out.

[robertf03]

XD400/4

now to figure out why the alternator is screaming over the speakers

[Seth]

grounding issues. Ground amp directly to body. Run power line seperate from RCAs. Ground radio seperately. Roughly in that order.

[RCcola55]

he also ran a ground all the way to the battery which could be a issue.

[robertf03]

it was doing it even with the sub amp fuse pulled.

I messed with the grounds and not much changed. Rovers use a a single common and 4 signal wires for the pre-amp out of the head unit. The common is braided shielding wire and it got a little better when that was grounded. I pulled all of the input RCAs out of the headunit and plugged a 3.5mm to RCA wire and threw the ipod on. It sounded great, no whine.

Tomorrow after work I'll probably kluge some female RCAs on to the Rover harness and buy new shielded RCA cable instead of the home made speaker wire and radio shack terminals its got now.

[robertf03]

Tonight I lopped off the end of the speaker harness and added RCA jacks, ran some shielded 6' radio shack wire behind the dash to the amp.

The result sounds great, all of the alternator whine is gone. I now own the car stereo I wanted when I was 16 :gigem:

http://www.flemcodesign.com/pics/harness.jpg

[Sparling]

Someone school me on adding a sub or two in my suburban. I have to replace the component speakers that I killed and might as well add a sub or two. I don't want anything that's going to rattle it to pieces, just enough for some good bass with the music. I got a gift card to Custom Sounds and they carry stuff like Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio, Alpine, and Kenwood, but I have no idea how to decide what to buy. I get all sorts of confused when people start talking about ohms and all the other dick measuring specs they say you need in a sub and amp combo.

[BroncoJo]

Someone school me on adding a sub or two in my suburban. I have to replace the component speakers that I killed and might as well add a sub or two. I don't want anything that's going to rattle it to pieces, just enough for some good bass with the music. I got a gift card to Custom Sounds and they carry stuff like Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio, Alpine, and Kenwood, but I have no idea how to decide what to buy. I get all sorts of confused when people start talking about ohms and all the other dick measuring specs they say you need in a sub and amp combo.

Who are you?

If Tommy still has my sub, I have a sub/amp combo that I'll let go real cheap.

[Hot Pocket]

Someone school me on adding a sub or two in my suburban. I have to replace the component speakers that I killed and might as well add a sub or two. I don't want anything that's going to rattle it to pieces, just enough for some good bass with the music. I got a gift card to Custom Sounds and they carry stuff like Rockford Fosgate, JL Audio, Alpine, and Kenwood, but I have no idea how to decide what to buy. I get all sorts of confused when people start talking about ohms and all the other dick measuring specs they say you need in a sub and amp combo.

If you're running a stock head unit, you'll need a digital line out converter. It converts speaker wire to RCA, and it's the easiest way to "patch" an amp into a system. If you have an aftermarket head unit, it's as simple as plugging in two RCA cables to the back of it. The other end goes to your amp.

When looking at an amp, look at its root mean square (RMS) power as this is the most accurate way of rating an amp's continuous power. There are other factors like signal to noise, and sensitivity, but you're not going huge, so don't worry about that.

Resistance (Ohms) is important... if you **** that up, you'll blow up your speakers or your amp or both. When looking at subs, there are two different types on the market. Single Voice Coil, and Dual Voice coil. Each voice coil has a resistance rating (in ohms). Wiring these coils together either in series or parallel will effective double/half your resistance rating. Think of each coil as a single sub itself for purposes of wiring them together.

If you need some help just bring it over...

[TdmayfieldIV]

I have a 10 inch sub and and amp that I'm not using.

[TdmayfieldIV]

And Travis I sold that sub to a pawn shop remember?

[BroncoJo]

I thought we were splitting the money??

[NealtheDestroyr]

ive got a 300w amp if yall want it. 6pack of dos equis and its yours.

[Hot Pocket]

how many channels? 300 rms? make and model?

[Hot Pocket]

4 4ohm speakers. 2 6.5", 2 6x9"
Installing an amp

Can I wire one of the 6.5's and one of the 6x9s in parallel? (The other two would be wired in parallel as well.) Both have the same resistance rating, but I just want to make sure that because they are different sizes that it will not cause any problems.

[Hot Pocket]

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/393617_10150586110679622_816379621_11704608_195279 2974_n.jpg

something like this, I'm wanting to put a 2 ohm load on the amp per channel.

[Seth]

If the amp can handle it, thespeakers don't know the difference. Remember that THD doubles when resistance is halved. Subs it is not anissue, but depending on what you have, it could on full range.

[Hot Pocket]

THD is .5% at 2 ohms, I can live with that. Just wanting to make sure that wiring a 6.5 to a 6x9 isnt gonna cause another catastrophic hot-pocket electrical meltdown

[AggieTJ2007]

You would be better off to wire them in series and push up to 8 ohms, 2 ohm is very hard on the amp even if it can handle it, it will take a lot of amps to get good sounds out of them.

[Hot Pocket]

2 ohms isnt going to hurt the amp, it was designed to handle the load. I'm not going to run 8 ohms, that's just a dumb suggestion and would completely defeat the purpose of even using an amp. The amp is designed to handle 2 ohms, and it has a good THD at that level.

[RCcola55]

You will be fine doing that. What is the resistance stability of the amp? I know a lot of new amps out there are 1 ohm stable and live just fine there.

[Hot Pocket]

its stable to 2 ohms. just a little 4 channel kicker amp

[Seth]

What are you using the other two channels for?

[AggieTJ2007]

yeah use what are you using the other channels for that would be the best option

[Hot Pocket]

yeah use what are you using the other channels for that would be the best option

wrong again :flipoff2:

Using the other two channels would present a 4 ohm load on the amplifier, producing maybe 30 watts per speaker. That's not much louder than I already have on the head unit. By wiring it down to 2 ohms, I would be running at 50 watts rms per speaker, more than double what the current head unit is producing. And with an amp, of course it will sound much cleaner.

[Seth]

What are you using the other two channels for?

[mudtoy67]

I'm a little rusty on my electrical theory, but I'm pretty sure running in parallel is not going to increase amperage running through each speaker (because the actual resistance at the speaker is not changed), just the amperage seen at the amplifier (because effective resistance of the circuit is reduced). (compared to running two speakers on indivdual circuits, not running two in series)

[Hot Pocket]

After looking over this a few times, what I'm trying to do isn't going to work. Going to have to run each speaker to its own channel. I was trying to go around this because I only have one set of outputs on my head unit.

[Hot Pocket]

Oh yeah!! New additions to the yetta

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/s720x720/400984_10150699220304622_816379621_12153903_183204 357_n.jpg

[RCcola55]

Sound waves are round.....

[Hot Pocket]

the square subs sound louder due to the added cone volume

[JB]

You have subs on your backseat?

[Hot Pocket]

haha, was waiting to get busted for that one... I had to remove the back seat to get them to fit into the trunk.

picture was taken when I picked them up and listened to them on the way home, they wouldn't fit with the back seat still installed. guess that's what you get for trying to cram 2 15s into a compact :gigem:

[Sharpe]

So I guess the pizzas ride shotgun??

[RCcola55]

the square subs sound louder due to the added cone volume

As well as increased distortion, that must be why every speaker company makes a square speaker.

With as much money as make you should be able to afford a trunk full of W7's or ID Max's

[TdmayfieldIV]

I would rather have 1 12" w7 than two of those

[Hot Pocket]

JL audio is overpriced garbage. Having owned both JL and kicker, I am a kicker fan for life. As far as distortion goes, you can hardly tell. And besides, they're subwoofers... it's not like distortion is a huge deal anyway.

[Sharpe]

When do the underglow lights go on?

[AggieTJ2007]

JL audio is overpriced garbage. Having owned both JL and kicker, I am a kicker fan for life. As far as distortion goes, you can hardly tell. And besides, they're subwoofers... it's not like distortion is a huge deal anyway.

yeah you can hardly hear the distortion over the trunk lid rattling

[FJAggie07]

JL audio is overpriced garbage. Having owned both JL and kicker, I am a kicker fan for life. As far as distortion goes, you can hardly tell. And besides, they're subwoofers... it's not like distortion is a huge deal anyway.

Having owners properly powered and boxed JL and Kicker stuff I can say I strongly disagree with this statement.

[Hot Pocket]

yeah you can hardly hear the distortion over the trunk lid rattling
surprisingly nothing really rattles... other than your head :gigem:


Having owners properly powered and boxed JL and Kicker stuff I can say I strongly disagree with this statement.
We probably have very different "habits" as far as sound systems go. I assume you don't actually push your speakers, and hey more power to you. But JL audio speakers are great when they're working. The sound quality is almost unmatched. But play them hard and they won't last. I can abuse my kickers like a redheaded stepchild and they'll stand up to it all day long. And when I don't want to be obnoxious about it, they sound great at the lower volumes too. It's a versatility thing in my opinion.

[FJAggie07]

surprisingly nothing really rattles... other than your head :gigem:


We probably have very different "habits" as far as sound systems go. I assume you don't actually push your speakers, and hey more power to you. But JL audio speakers are great when they're working. The sound quality is almost unmatched. But play them hard and they won't last. I can abuse my kickers like a redheaded stepchild and they'll stand up to it all day long. And when I don't want to be obnoxious about it, they sound great at the lower volumes too. It's a versatility thing in my opinion.

You may be right, I don't ever roll my windows down when I have my music "cranked". I try not to be annoying with my music. I don't feel I have the right to make other people listen to my kind of music while they rock out to their Celine dion. All that being said, I like a lot of rock and Texas country, resulting in liking crisp clear bass. I have owned various w3's and a w6 and that is what they give me. I currently have all kicker speakers and one ten in the firetruck and the bass just comes off sloppy. But I didn't spend big bucks on the firetruck because it isn't the definition of secure.

[robertf03]

if you have a good enough sub you don't need to roll the windows down

bass nectar for everyone

[mudtoy67]

This thread likes turtles.

[Hot Pocket]

You may be right, I don't ever roll my windows down when I have my music "cranked". I try not to be annoying with my music. I don't feel I have the right to make other people listen to my kind of music while they rock out to their Celine dion. All that being said, I like a lot of rock and Texas country, resulting in liking crisp clear bass. I have owned various w3's and a w6 and that is what they give me. I currently have all kicker speakers and one ten in the firetruck and the bass just comes off sloppy. But I didn't spend big bucks on the firetruck because it isn't the definition of secure.

I call it the stoplight rule. When you're moving, all bets are off...crank it up. But nobody wants to listen to the asshole with his system up while you're stopped at a light. Let this be a lesson to all you newbies! :flipoff2:

[MR.ZAP]

Being an owner of multiple kickers during high school, I must say that they are excellent subs. Unless you are into metal, in which case no sub is good because they all get blown :haha:

[robertf03]

time to replace the stolen box

[RCcola55]

Did you read the pamphlet in the sub box on the proper port volume?

[robertf03]

But of course

[robertf03]

ryno this is what I was talking about regarding the DVD player trim piece. There are interchangable surrounds for the 2 different roof lines of a series 2, but they never made one for a series 1 so it'll have to be kustom.

[tigweld]

no ports. sealed is way easier and better sounding for most speakers

[robertf03]

If that was true, why would anyone build a box with ports?

[AggieTJ2007]

If that was true, why would anyone build a box with ports?

because it it louder

[tigweld]

ported boxes are for letting your neighbors hear the bump, sealed boxes are what you would find in any higher sound quality system

[robertf03]

...

[robertf03]

http://img.tapatalk.com/4418832b-cce1-688b.jpg

Boom

[Hot Pocket]

what is the nominal impedance seen by the amp in this setup?

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/246774_10151410250384622_461786730_n.jpg

[Sparling]

why are you putting all this together if you can't figure that out?

[Hot Pocket]

why are you putting all this together if you can't figure that out?

:rolleyes:

Thanks for the helpful reply! I'm assuming the impedance would be 8 ohms since crossovers dont severely affect impedance, only frequency; however, I have never seen a bridged setup on a passive crossover and I want to make sure that I'm not overlooking something small.

I posted this here hoping someone who actually knows their **** when it comes to this stuff, Seth, Flem, any others, might be able to offer up some advice.

I originally wanted to run a 4 ohm mid and 8 ohm tweet, but found that it would not work out well for power balance.

Back on topic, I'm doing it partly for the learning experience, partly to save money on the task at hand. The same reason you try things with your rig that you've never done before.

I'm assuming the nominal impedance would be 8 ohms at the amp, just wanting a second opinion before I wire together a bunch of expensive car stereo components.

[Seth]

Where are you getting 8 ohm stuff for mobile audio? I think you are too focused on running bridged. Run your mids and highs 4 ohm.

The amp will see 8 ohms in that setup fyi. Crossover is just splitting and crossing.

[Hot Pocket]

Dayton Audio. Have read nothing but good things about them. They're more focused on home audio stuff, but a lot of people have had a lot of success running their equipment in a car stereo setup. Another big reason for choosing them over Focal, hertz, morel etc. would be the fact that they offer a more-than-decent 4" driver. (and price isn't bad at all either). The reason I'm bridging the amp is because I'm expecting the amp to see 8 ohms, so I'm hoping to bridge the amp to make up for the power loss seen by the higher impedance.

Dayton offers the 4" mid in either 4 ohm or 8 ohm, the tweeter; however, is only offered in an 8 ohm. Since I don't want to have to deal with the headache of figuring out a crossover running one driver at 4 ohm and the other at 8, i decided to just go with both drivers at 8 ohms.

What are your thoughts?

[Seth]

I'd run 4 ohms...Keep it simple.

[Hot Pocket]

Alright Seth, time to pick your brain some more...

I've decided to take your advice and go 4 ohm all around and ditch the passive crossovers.

So here we go.

The H/U I have has a HPF that I can adjust (will probably wind up putting it on around 50-63 hz.

Keeping with the 3-way components, can I buy an amp that has an active crossover built in to eliminate the need to buy an external active xover? The H/U has 6 sets of preouts (2 for sub outputs) so I am thinking I can use the first set for the front stage, second set for the rear, third for subs.) I realize this is going to be a 4 amp setup, but might as well just do it right the first time.

I'm thinking if I can find a 4 channel with a bandpass filter on it, I can just run active straight to the tweets and mids and use the amp to cross the tweets appropriately (3500-5000hz, depends on what sounds best in the car) and the mids the same way (probably 250-400, again depends on sound)

Then another 2 channel for the 8s (will be better anyway since the 8's can handle more RMS power)

Not even going to mess with the rear right now. Focusing on getting the front stage finished up.

[Sparling]

I have these in the doors of my truck and the stock stereo.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/G-Series/TS-G6844R

To keep it simple, the driver side speaker sounds like it went out on the radio but on CD it sounds okay. Speaker problem or stock 12 year old head unit problem? I'll find some other ones to test in the next couple of days to see what happens but I'm just trying to get an idea of what it might be.

[BroncoJo]

I have these in the doors of my truck and the stock stereo.

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/Speakers/G-Series/TS-G6844R

To keep it simple, the driver side speaker sounds like it went out on the radio but on CD it sounds okay. Speaker problem or stock 12 year old head unit problem? I'll find some other ones to test in the next couple of days to see what happens but I'm just trying to get an idea of what it might be.

Old head unit, have had similar problems

[Sparling]

Well, can anybody recommend a lower end double din head unit? I just want a decent head unit with a set of preouts auxiliary port in front and doesn't feel cheap.

[Hot Pocket]

It's most likely the head unit if the speaker works fine on one input and not the other.

If you want to be sure it's not the speaker, take a DMM and set it to measure resistance. The coils should read out to be around 4 ohms if they are 4 ohm speakers, or 8 ohms if they are 8 ohm speakers. A reading of 3.5-4 is considered acceptable.

Also, you can have my Kenwood head unit that's in the bronco. Has a detachable faceplate, front aux and usb. Works good, pretty basic head unit. It's a KDC-208 I bought about a year ago off of crutchfield. $40?

[Sparling]

I'll find my meter and test it. Thanks for the tip. I'm looking for a double din head unit so no dice.

[colman]

I'll take the head unit. Plus you can come over and check out my shop

[Seth]

You can just get a standard head unit and a kit and give your self a lot more choices.

[Seth]

HP I will look and think some more in a few. Going to catch up first.

[Hot Pocket]

**** just got real

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/664751_10151493660744622_1997305518_o.jpg

[Hot Pocket]

Finally got it all finished and tuned.

Fully active, 4-way system with:
Hertz HV 165XL getting 200 rms each bandpassed 80-800hz.
Hertz EM100 getting 75 rms each bandpassed @ 500-4khz
DLS Classic Tweeter @ 75 rms each HP @ 4khz
2 Sundown Audio SA-12 @ 1000 each. Box tuned to 32 hz. Crossovers @ 25-100hz
Memphis Pro Coaxials in the rear @ 200 rms.

Last on the list is a crapton of sound deadener, another battery, and some 4/0 to 1/0 reducers.
Onto the prons--

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/184491_10151567251479622_379837014_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/205097_10151567251409622_1601159442_n.jpg
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/61421_10151567251459622_2044528450_n.jpg
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/196027_10151567251524622_1101593710_n.jpg

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Looks kewl, now, can you decode your post for the uninformed? :-)

[FJAggie07]

Looks kewl, now, can you decode your post for the uninformed? :-)

I think it means music go boom boom, but I have no clue?

[DRAGOONRANCH]

I said uninformed, not we todd id...

[Hot Pocket]

haha

It does go boom boom when I want it to, but when I turn the bass down, it actually sounds fantastic on music. My goal was to create the ultimate SQ build with the option of getting crazy loud if I wanted to.

The sound quality is amazing. Going fully active (amplifying after you crossover) is the only way to do it. The speakers all image so well, I'm very happy with how it all turned out.:gigem:

running 2k watts to the subs
1.5k watts to the mids and highs

[Sparling]

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h77/mustube/20121221_123146.jpg

Anybody know where to get a cheap back up camera? Also, for anyone who has put a stereo in a not too old Ford, what did you do with the two orange wires that are both marked illumination?

[TdmayfieldIV]

cap em? arent those for the lights in the oem head unit?

[Seth]

I would hook at least one up. Read up on it, it will dim your head unit when you turn headlights on etc.

[Sparling]

I hooked the one the instructions specified up, but it didn't dim. I'll try the other one tonight. I think one is to power the lights and the other one is to tell them to dim when you flip the headlight switch. Amazon has back up cameras galore, I just have to find one with decent reviews. All I have left to do is trim the dash opening, find a wire for reverse, and run RCA cables to my amp. I don't know why I haven't gone with an aftermatket head unit sooner. It is so nice to have and it's not even done.

[Hot Pocket]

seths right, they dim your unit when you flip on the lights. you'll need to run the orange wire to the positive wire on your headlight switch. I personally don't like the dimmer, so I just leave it disconnected, but to each his own.

edit: for the back up cam, run the wire to the reverse lights.

[Sparling]

I know what it does, it just didn't work when I hooked it up like the adapter kit and stereo install guide made it sound like it should be hooked up but I hooked the other orange wire up and it works fine now. Now it's just getting the fit right when I cut the dash.

I don't want to run a wire all the way to the tail lights just for the back up camera. Word on the interwebs is that there's a wire coming out at the bottom of the steering column I can use for this purpose. I ordered a back up camera for 15 bucks on ebay, hopefully it works out.

[TdmayfieldIV]

Best speakers under $75 for wakeboard speaker pods?

thinking about

http://i.seimg.net/images/799372/big/mx6.jpg

http://i.seimg.net/images/660922/big/11ds60.jpg

http://i.seimg.net/images/608975/big/tsa1684r.jpg

or

http://i.seimg.net/images/513441/big/tdx65.jpg

[Hot Pocket]

I would steer clear of all of those brands.

6.5 JBL marine speakers that I have in the bronco are the tits. Get super loud off very little power and do not break up and distort.

Hifonics is good for amps, MB Quart (Also owned by maxxonics) is better for speakers.

Stay away from pioneer and kicker. They sell them at walmart, nuff said there.

And MTX is more concerned with form than function.

JBL all the way.

http://www.amazon.com/JBL-MS6200-6-5-Inch-Marine-Speakers/dp/B0013D210U

[Sparling]

I have pioneer in my truck. **** sounds good.

[RCcola55]

Nothing wrong with pioneer as long as it isn't the crap sold at Walmart. As far as weather/water resistant speakers, as long as it doesn't have a paper cone (cheap speakers) it will be fine. Don't waste a lot of money on rig speakers, you are just going to annoy others on the trail.

[TdmayfieldIV]

Got these speaker pods for christmas. i'm gonna put some pillow stuffing in them.

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/xx6/TdmayfieldIV/KGrHqNn0FCrsvdDGSBQ3dkgI0g60_3_zpsabfa0a5d.jpg

then got these speakers from best buy with some gift card shuffling, and got the amp from work from returning a ****ty broken window motor from my dad's suburban. I got a 4 channel cause i'm gonna mount my old pioneer 6x9's behind the seats

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/xx6/TdmayfieldIV/IMAG0165-2.jpg


http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/xx6/TdmayfieldIV/IMAG0169-2.jpg

what are the battery looking things?

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/xx6/TdmayfieldIV/IMAG0167-2.jpg

[robertf03]

don't put that crap on your bronco

It is incredibly annoying wheeling with you speaker pod folk when your stereos are on.

the battery looking things are resistor capacitor circuits used to cancel certain frequencies. It limits the band that speaker will operate at.

[Seth]

The amp is crapola

[TdmayfieldIV]

It's got a lifetime warranty :flipoff2:

[JB]

19370
PVC cap and parts store speakers......What I listen through while waiting for you fancy boat speaker bitches at the top of the trail

[TdmayfieldIV]

Wasn't aware it was a race...........do those sound good when you're sitting on a cooler?:flipoff2:

[Sparling]

do yours sound good in the box they came in?

[TdmayfieldIV]

so I did a test hookup today.

http://i.seimg.net/images/124281/big/cx350.jpg

I hooked the rca's to the channel 1 and 2 parts and it wasn't right. sounded like they were little headphone speakers. Wtf are the hi level inputs?

[AggieTJ2007]

high level inputs should be line level inputs. Low level is what you want, make sure you have the gain turned up to the appropriate levels. Also where you using the Iphone?

[Hot Pocket]

make sure your high pass filter is set to 80ish hertz, that's probably why your **** sounds hollow. Also, match the gain to the output of the source unit (if it's 2v out, set it to 2v)

high level inputs are usually used more for integrating OEM head units with aftermarket amps.

[TdmayfieldIV]

I returned it. Didn't have high or low pass filters, ****ty in general

[TdmayfieldIV]

Returned that **** amp, bought a used one for the same price. Has high and low pass filters, these speakers are the tits. Also, my 6x9's work, so bronca is gonna bump!

http://i736.photobucket.com/albums/xx6/TdmayfieldIV/IMAG0180.jpg

[Sharpe]

I'm sure it will sound sweet sitting outside Evan's shop :flipoff2: