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mudtoy67
05-19-2005, 04:19 PM
Figured I'd go ahead and start tossing around ideas for the FJ.

Right now the plans are:
Finish power steering swap
new trans and tcase
new wiring harness

Steering:
I'm doing some side work to trade for a new steering box. Gonna go with the standard saginaw setup. Since my column was part of the old box i'm building a new one like a dirt track setup with a quick detach steering wheel. I've also got to build a new tierod to adapt the standard/metric tie rod ends, or build one using heims.

Trans and Tcase:
I'm going with a short powerglide tranny and a Dana 300 tcase. This should give me a short enough drivetrain that I can move the engine all the way back in the engine compartment and still have a decent rear driveshaft without moving the rear axle back.

Wiring:
Gonna start working on a new homemade chassis wiring harness. I need to find a good weather resistant fuse block to start from, should all be fairly easy after that. Gonna finally wire in my ALDL so I can figure out what up with my sometimes crazy idle.

If anyone knows someone looking to get rid a Glide for core, let me know. It needs to be a short tailshaft. Also, does it matter wether I look for a scout or jeep dana 300? I don't know much about them except that I always seem to hear people talking about the Scout one. Is it stronger than the jeep? Are the replacement gear sets the same?

jerryg79
05-19-2005, 04:31 PM
Figured I'd go ahead and start tossing around ideas for the FJ.

Right now the plans are:
Finish power steering swap
new trans and tcase
new wiring harness

Steering:
I'm doing some side work to trade for a new steering box. Gonna go with the standard saginaw setup. Since my column was part of the old box i'm building a new one like a dirt track setup with a quick detach steering wheel. I've also got to build a new tierod to adapt the standard/metric tie rod ends, or build one using heims.

Trans and Tcase:
I'm going with a short powerglide tranny and a Dana 300 tcase. This should give me a short enough drivetrain that I can move the engine all the way back in the engine compartment and still have a decent rear driveshaft without moving the rear axle back.

Wiring:
Gonna start working on a new homemade chassis wiring harness. I need to find a good weather resistant fuse block to start from, should all be fairly easy after that. Gonna finally wire in my ALDL so I can figure out what up with my sometimes crazy idle.

If anyone knows someone looking to get rid a Glide for core, let me know. It needs to be a short tailshaft. Also, does it matter wether I look for a scout or jeep dana 300? I don't know much about them except that I always seem to hear people talking about the Scout one. Is it stronger than the jeep? Are the replacement gear sets the same?

Karl might be getting rid of his???? When he swaps in the LT1.

eight
05-20-2005, 11:56 PM
Scout stuff = queer. Really all a scout d300 is good for is to replace a d20 in a scout or jeep. U wantum jeep d300, cheaper + goes with the J in FJ.

TxCruzr
05-21-2005, 09:31 AM
Scout stuff = queer. Really all a scout d300 is good for is to replace a d20 in a scout or jeep. U wantum jeep d300, cheaper + goes with the J in FJ.

No better reason than that right there :gigem:

uglyota
05-21-2005, 12:14 PM
I think he means the bolt pattern is different (round vs "texas" pattern or something like that?)

mudtoy67
05-23-2005, 04:45 PM
I've been doing some research, and the Jeep D300 is what Advance Adapters specifically says I need. So far, Advance is the only place I've found that has adapters for this combo. Anyone know of any others? Another option is to let a Klune V do the adapting, but by the time I bolt it all together, it would be about the same length as my Th350/NP205 combo......which defeats the purpose of wanting to use the Glide.

agjohn02
05-23-2005, 05:23 PM
scout has a different bolt pattern. you need the jeep one, as do i.

mudtoy67
05-26-2005, 01:16 PM
ok, i've been looking at D300s and I'm not sure which I need. I had assumed I needed an 80 model because it is 2" shorter than 81-86. But I've seen that the HD output shaft that's sold for the 300 doesn't fit the short version specifically......supposedly takes lots of extra silicone. I'm not sure if I'm going to need the HD output rightaway. The thing that has me worried is that I read someone on PBB had broken the output on their short 300 and talked like it was a common thing. Are the short output 300s any weaker than the long?

robertf03
05-26-2005, 01:27 PM
fawk the short shaft version. Its exactly 1" shorter than the long output. I didn't even deem it worthy on my cj5, and I've got less rear driveshaft than you.

If you can find one, great. The long ones are much easier to find and when you do the 32 spline output it makes it long anyway.

You can redrill the short output pattern to fit the longoutput housing, and those companies are making them for both now (instructions might just say "drill here")

I don't think theres much of a strength difference. The short might neck down a little sooner than the long.

http://www.utdallas.edu/~rsf031000/pics/d300long.jpg
http://www.utdallas.edu/~rsf031000/pics/d300short.jpg



need some spank material? $100 for all 3 :D (they are all gone now)

http://www.utdallas.edu/~rfleming/pics/d3001.jpg



edit: Home made wiring harness? you want to start with my old gv10 centech kit? its pretty much been rummaged through but the fuse block and other random stuff is there. I can throw it in the back of your truck this weekend when you aren't looking if you want.

mudtoy67
05-26-2005, 01:59 PM
Sure, you can throw that fuse block and wiring stuff in my truck......I'm a sucker for free/cheap stuff! Apparently I'm also a sucker for front door displays at stores. Last night I went to Walmart to get some things and I just had to have a jug of washer fluid and a 10 pack of Reese's by the door. Then I just had to have that roll of ducktape I saw at the register.......I think they saw me coming a mile away. :D

mudtoy67
06-03-2005, 10:10 PM
Did some work on the FJ yesterday. Actually dug it out of the garage and moved some stuff off of it. Pulled the rear axle so I can swap the internals in to my rodeo d44. I hoped to have more done by now but I went to work for Eaker for the past couple days to make a few extra bucks to put into the project. Should have the 4.56 gears and miller-locked carrier swapped by this weekend, it's just too hot to work during the day! Coop and I pulled the tranny/tcase a couple weekends ago, so I guess I'm neck deep in the glide/d300 swap now :gigem: .


http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5857&d=1117854649
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5858&d=1117854649
http://tamor.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5859&d=1117854649

mudtoy67
06-07-2005, 01:34 PM
Got the new axle in, but it's not complete. Ran into some problems with the gear swap. Found that the Rodeo axle uses a smaller inner pinion bearing, and the shims are between the bearing and the head of the pinion. The CJ axle I had been running had a larger inner pinion bearing and the shims were under the race in the housing. So I stuck the diff in there and will get to the gear setup at a later time. I also got the 35" Dunlops I picked up at a yard sale saturday mounted, even though they are only 2" larger, they look a lot bigger than the 33" swampers. Definately going to have to do some clearancing on the rear fenders. The axle looks good, it's about 3.5" wider than the CJ axle, so my tires line up with the front ones alot better.

mudtoy67
07-18-2005, 01:53 PM
got my dana 300 this week :)

mudtoy67
12-31-2006, 05:02 PM
Thought I would post up some progress I made today. Yes, I actually worked on it :gigem:

Plans have changed slightly since I originally started this thread. I've decided now I want to use Scout power steering, because it keeps the steering box out of harms way, and routing the steering shaft is slightly easier. The powerglide idea is not totally scrapped, but i am a lot less enthusiastic about it. I've been crunching some numbers, and if I ran a powerglide instead of a TH350, I'd be paying a couple of grand extra for only 3-5/8" shorter drivetrain, and it would still be a worse crawl ratio.

So on with the progress. Here it is as pulled out of the garage. It's gotten a little dusty. First order of business was to remove the fenders. The passenger side got pretty crunched at TCC a couple years ago.

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/9940/dscn1148xs5.jpg

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/2938/dscn1150ra0.jpg


One fender!...Aaah, Aaah, Aaaaah!

http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/1581/dscn1151wv1.jpg

Two fender!...Aaah, Aaah, Aaaaah!

http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/6055/dscn1152ax5.jpg

TxCruzr
12-31-2006, 05:05 PM
You could have just trimmed the edges, now where are you going to put your beer :rolleyes:

oh....your bezel is upside down :flipoff2:

mudtoy67
12-31-2006, 05:10 PM
Next, removed the shock towers and factory steering bracket with my shiny new craftsman angle grinder.

Here's where the steering bracket was. The rivets on the shock towers were easy to knock out, but these were a lot tougher for some reason.
http://img400.imageshack.us/img400/6915/dscn1154bj1.jpg


Here's the scout steering box mocked up. Thanks for the pitman arm and the loaner box Jimmy, the pitman arm is perfect for this.
http://img364.imageshack.us/img364/7121/dscn1155py5.jpg

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/4783/dscn1157wa0.jpg

Gonna have to ditch the AA motor mounts, but I'm not too fond of them anyway.
http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/4420/dscn1159fr6.jpg

mudtoy67
12-31-2006, 05:14 PM
Here's with the fender skirts and front bib reinstalled. I'm not crazy about the no fender look. I'll build some new fenders later. I think I'd like to retain the factory inner fenders somehow, so that mud and stuff coming off the tires doesn't have free reign of the engine compartment.

http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/5291/dscn1161oh5.jpg

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/2064/dscn1162br5.jpg

That's all I have for now. I'll probably work on it some more tomorrow after I recover from tonight. :)

mudtoy67
12-31-2006, 05:21 PM
You could have just trimmed the edges, now where are you going to put your beer :rolleyes:

oh....your bezel is upside down :flipoff2:

Somehow I knew it was upside down, no matter which way I thought it was supposed to go. :p

BMFScout
12-31-2006, 05:26 PM
I told you that arm would be perfect!

mudtoy67
10-16-2007, 07:26 AM
Progress! :gigem:

or

Progress? :confused2 :laughing:




http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Cruiser-rebuild/DSCN1745.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Cruiser-rebuild/DSCN1752.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Cruiser-rebuild/DSCN1753.jpg

mudtoy67
10-16-2007, 07:32 AM
Documenting some of the booty fab on the cage. This thing was just fine, especially considering we threw the whole truck together in 3 days (thanks Jose, Jerry, Doug), but I'm wanting to make this build a little cleaner now....maybe even cooler than Lynda's Jeep (yeah right:laughing: )

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Cruiser-rebuild/DSCN1747.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Cruiser-rebuild/DSCN1748.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Cruiser-rebuild/DSCN1749.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Cruiser-rebuild/DSCN1750.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Cruiser-rebuild/DSCN1751.jpg

mudtoy67
10-16-2007, 07:40 AM
Found something interesting when I pulled the fuel cell. Went to dump out what was left of the gas, and heard a clunk. Pulled the cap and found this:

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Cruiser-rebuild/DSCN1744.jpg

I was a bit surprised to see this kind of crap in a RCI tank. Evidently there was some powdercoat on the inside that eventually flaked off. Also, apparently the fuel pickup rotted off over the past two years of non-use. Hopefully RCI will send me a new pickup free....we'll see.

Also, Mike pointed out that I have a great ability of mocking things up, so I mocked up the steering box again. I'm pretty sure this will be its final mounting spot, but I need to get a torch so I can cut some plate and box the frame before it's mounted. I'm trying to get the pitman arm as high as I can to avoid interfance with the spring during flex. I might even notch the frame to get it up higher than where it is now. I need to pickup the proper tie-rod end to see.

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Cruiser-rebuild/DSCN1755.jpg

http://tamor.us/members-rigs/albums/Cruiser-rebuild/DSCN1756.jpg

Fredo
10-16-2007, 08:28 AM
I didn't know my poor old 305 ended up blue with yellow valve covers. :( :flipoff2:

mudtoy67
10-16-2007, 08:30 AM
oh yes, that was the color scheme of the day. I even told CJ he had to change his color scheme on his Jeep....now I like his grey/black color scheme better:laughing:

mudtoy67
10-25-2007, 08:53 PM
Got the body and engine off the chassis...

redcagepatrol
10-25-2007, 09:06 PM
where are you working on that thing? That's not the house that I went to... Can't wait to see it back on the trail :gigem:

jerryg79
10-25-2007, 09:08 PM
you need to mow your driveway :flipoff2:

mudtoy67
10-25-2007, 09:50 PM
We moved 1st of september. We live on 10ac out 290 near waller now. Nice big garage...but only one little 110v outlet. Good neighbors though, that's my neighbor and his tractor. Good thing too, I thought for a minute I was going to have to show my true colors and have an engine hanging from a tree :laughing:

JeepPhisherman
10-25-2007, 09:51 PM
you need to mow your driveway :flipoff2:

I was going to say the same thing, but that's a pretty slick set-up, I like.

mudtoy67
10-25-2007, 09:52 PM
you need to mow your driveway :flipoff2:


I leave that spot overgrown...it's my little shrine to the Ford. :gigem:

jerryg79
10-25-2007, 09:53 PM
when we having your graduation party, its good camping weather :gigem:

mudtoy67
10-25-2007, 10:09 PM
Good call. I'm gonna have to do some pondering....

TxCruzr
10-25-2007, 11:58 PM
great, now we have to wait another 6 months before you do any more work on it :rolleyes:




hurry up :flipoff2:

mudtoy67
01-07-2008, 08:47 AM
Haven't done much work to it lately, but lately I've been looking into crawl ratio/gearing....

Seeing Creighton run a doubler on his short wheelbase vehicle got me thinking. I was going to just run a TH350 to D300 to keep my drivetrain length short. Did a little research and it looks like I could do a 231 crawlbox for cheaper than running a D300 w/ 4:1 and I'd have a better crawl ratio. Also if I get a 231 from a chevy S10/Blazer it will do the adapting to the transmission so I don't need the extra adapter.

TH350/D300

$485 adapter + $600 4:1 = ~$1200 after shipping
Crawl ratio
2.52 * 4.0 * 4.56 = 45.9:1

TH350/231crawler/D300

$400 crawlbox adapter + ~$130 NP231 or Np241 = ~$630 w/ shipping/welding
Crawl ratio
2.52 * 2.72 * 2.62 * 4.56 = 81.9:1

Since I'm going to end up lengthening the wheelbase anyway, and I've given up my top secret extendable wheelbase project in favor of wheeling sometime this century, this is probably the route I'll go. Any thoughts?

DRAGOONRANCH
01-07-2008, 09:02 AM
That looks like some respectable numbers once you factor in what ever "gearing" your TC will give you. I think you are lookin in the right direction atleast. Will there be any machine work need to be done to the cases for the doubler?

mudtoy67
01-07-2008, 09:06 AM
Only thing is there is a patch plate that is welded in to cover where you cut the front output off of the 231. That's the only unknown cost I could think of, how much is it gonna cost to get that tig welded....though I figure it can't be too much for that little plate.

DRAGOONRANCH
01-07-2008, 09:12 AM
I thought I remembered there being some work needing to be done to it. I know a greasy long haired hippy meskin in dallas that might do it on the cheap if you ask him nicely. :flipoff2: I just dont know if he has access to a tig anymore though. I say do eet. From your numbers, you have aboot $670 dollars to play with between the cost of the two, that would make it worth puttin on a two kegger at scoutfork and having him come over and do it. :D

mudtoy67
01-26-2008, 09:57 PM
Oops, I guess I could take it apart more.:gigem:

eight
01-28-2008, 10:01 AM
You can weld aluminum with a stick. I've done it a couple times. Clean the aluminum real good and do a little practice. It burns real fast. Uses AC.

mudtoy67
01-28-2008, 11:01 AM
I might try that. I was thinking about getting it tigged though so I wouldn't have to chance taking it apart a dozen times to fix porous welds.

eight
01-28-2008, 11:39 AM
Silicon from the inside after welding.

mudtoy67
01-28-2008, 08:41 PM
Got the axles out of the front. Luckily I didn't find as much water in the knuckles as I thought there would be. The knuckle seals/wipers have been worn out since before I got the axle, and there's been a few trips to Llano on it. It was probably a good idea to use marine grease in the birfs....it was a little discolored but appeared to be fine.

I'm having a little trouble getting the steering arms off, the cone washers are a little rusty.


http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/1-29-08.jpg

BMFScout
01-28-2008, 08:49 PM
tapping/beating the **** out of it from the side is key! :)

AggieTJ2007
01-29-2008, 05:16 PM
ST. Johns got a tig, does his do AC? If not it should be less than $50 to have someone weld it, the aluminums welds pretty good just leave a small 1/8 lip on the outside of the plate and you don't have to use hardly any filler, i welded mine from the inside and the outside

mudtoy67
01-29-2008, 06:58 PM
Sounds good. I might even try putting some aluminum wire in my little mig. Whatever I do I'll practice on the other half of the case first. :)

mudtoy67
02-10-2008, 08:48 PM
Finished the cut and turn today...except for re-welding the knuckles. The pinion angle was set whenever the axle was converted to SOA, so all I have to worry about is the caster angle. It's not really going to see much street time, so I didn't get too picky with the caster angle and did everything on the bench. I started by grinding off all the crap in the way. Removed the steering stops, shock mounts, and brake line tabs. I then ground the old knuckle weld smooth, then ground a groove in the tube just on the differential side of the weld.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN1967.jpg

I figured my spring perches should be pretty close to level when the axle is installed, so I set my perches to zero.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN1964.jpg

From what I've seen, most people have been aiming for 4-6 degrees negative caster. I ended up with about 4.5 degrees.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN1965.jpg

You can see below the difference between the original angle and the new angle. I also made a mark near the cut to show how far it was turned.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN1969.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN1975.jpg

I still need to burn them in, but after testing my little 130amp HF welder, I decided it wasn't up to the job and I'll have to borrow someone else's.

JeepPhisherman
02-10-2008, 09:49 PM
Damn, you had to make a helluva cut. How easy was it to break that knuckle ball loose?

mudtoy67
02-10-2008, 10:10 PM
Well, you're the second person to mention that. I didn't think it was that big of groove. It's only about 5/16" at the outside...a little less at the bottom. The knuckle itself was pretty easy to turn after it was broken loose. I ratchet strapped it to the FJ frame, then put an old axle shaft through the knuckle and turned it.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/gap.jpg

DRAGOONRANCH
02-10-2008, 10:24 PM
Who does your manicures???

Sharpe
02-10-2008, 10:54 PM
BDR if you dont get it welded up by the time the Decade party comes around (which, judging by the pace you work, you wont :flipoff2:) you can bring it to CS and use my MM210 to get r' dun.

uglyota
02-11-2008, 12:02 PM
the cool kids on pirate like to drill a couple of holes in the housing for plug welds, you gonna do that?
Looks good!

mudtoy67
02-11-2008, 03:31 PM
Who does your manicures???

I do them myself when I have a little wine and I'm feeling sassy.:rainbow:



BDR if you dont get it welded up by the time the Decade party comes around (which, judging by the pace you work, you wont :flipoff2:) you can bring it to CS and use my MM210 to get r' dun.

I might take you up on that if I end up making it out there. That weekend is CDRs birthday....the terms of making the trip are still in negotiations and I really can't comment on it until a final settlement is made.:D

I did a little research late last night and found that the flux core wire I'm using, E71T-11, is made for DC- current. According to a manual I found online my welder is currently set for DC+. I'm pretty sure I can just swap the connections inside the welder and I'll see if it does any better.


the cool kids on pirate like to drill a couple of holes in the housing for plug welds, you gonna do that?
Looks good!


I haven't seen anyone do that (not in the cruiser section anyway), though it's probably a good idea.

uglyota
02-11-2008, 03:39 PM
in the yota section I think it was "project blu" that they did like the "ultimate" toyota axle build. You might want to get/make some of those ball gussets while you're at it.

DRAGOONRANCH
02-11-2008, 03:43 PM
I didnt know you were vietnamese....

mudtoy67
02-11-2008, 03:50 PM
in the yota section I think it was "project blu" that they did like the "ultimate" toyota axle build. You might want to get/make some of those ball gussets while you're at it.

Ya, I'm planning on making some gussets. I'm also looking at trussing the diff, but I'll wait until I get the hydro assist stuff so I can incorporate the ram mount into it. Gonna shave the diff too. After all that the axle is probably gonna come out looking like a banana.:laughing:

mudtoy67
02-18-2008, 08:43 PM
Nothing to see here, just parts documentation...


Isuzu Dana 44
bearing retainer 36797
axle seal 18731
Timken- Set No. 10 = U399 cone + U360L cup + K426898 collar

mudtoy67
02-23-2008, 03:36 PM
Got the knuckles welded up this morning. Made a root pass along the inside edge of the groove, then filled the outer edge. Used a friend's 180amp Hobart...made a much better weld than my little 130A.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/knuckleweld.jpg

AggieTJ2007
02-23-2008, 10:43 PM
looks good

DRAGOONRANCH
02-23-2008, 11:10 PM
needs more penetration....

:flipoff2:

mudtoy67
03-01-2008, 01:30 PM
Well crap.:(

My new to me Marlin Crawler hysteer arms came in today. I was pretty pumped about getting them, but then I open the box and find this.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/arms/DSCN1998.jpg

I don't have a problem with them being dirty, I wouldn't totally be surprised about that in a used part. The problem is the hole for the drag link is completely wallowed out. The guy never said anything about there being any damage to these arms. Unfortunately, I never thought to ask for pics. I sent him a PM on Mud...we'll see what he comes up with to remedy this problem.

I don't see how these could be used with tre's anymore without some major work. I guess they could be drilled out, then press/weld a sleeve in and re-taper the hole. Or just taper the hole bigger and hope that a 1ton tre would fit. Either way it's not right. Only other thing I could think of doing would be to drill a straight hole and run a heim on the drag link, but I wasn't wanting to run heims on the steering, plus I'd have to drill out all the holes to make all the rod ends match.


http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/arms/DSCN2002.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/arms/DSCN2001.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/arms/DSCN2004.jpg

DRAGOONRANCH
03-01-2008, 02:08 PM
How much $ were they? If it was a Grayson type deal, I say fawk it, drill and be done. If not, go beat his ass. It won't fix anything, but you will definitely feel better. ;)

JeepPhisherman
03-01-2008, 03:25 PM
Wow, that's pretty ****ty. If you paypal'd him, file a complaint.

You can't sell that kind of stuff and not mention that the passenger arm is beyond useable.

mudtoy67
03-02-2008, 09:26 AM
Unfortunately not a grayson deal. I paid $150 for the arms, and they're $199 new. I paid by cashier's check. I quit using paypal a while back when they're rules started changing and the number of people being screwed kept rising. I haven't heard back from him yet, he hasn't been online since friday.

DRAGOONRANCH
03-02-2008, 10:34 AM
:doh:

JeepPhisherman
03-02-2008, 12:01 PM
If this guy never gets back to you, I'm sure Marlin will sell you just a passenger arm so you're not completely fecked.

bburris
03-02-2008, 01:37 PM
Did he misrepresent the product, or just leave out those key details?

mudtoy67
03-02-2008, 05:38 PM
He never stated their condition, I guess I was too trusting this time. Normally I ask for pics, but I guess I didn't give it enough consideration and just ASSumed there's not too many ways to damage a steering arm.

JeepPhisherman
03-02-2008, 06:29 PM
That's bull**** though. Those things are not worth $150 in their condition, probably closer to $50 for the driver's arm. At best, you're probably out what he paid for shipping and the cost of shipping back to him, if he'll take them back.

bburris
03-02-2008, 08:03 PM
Yeah, I'd say call the guy out on it and see if he'll make right on it.

mudtoy67
03-02-2008, 08:57 PM
Ok, just got a message from the guy. He says that he was unaware of the wallowed out hole when he pulled them off. He's been around for a long time on Mud, and he's offered to send the money back, so I think he's being honest. I'll have to research my options a bit more when I get back from Utah.

JeepPhisherman
03-03-2008, 07:46 AM
Good to know he's making things right, but how do you not notice that?

AggieTJ2007
03-03-2008, 09:40 AM
maybe pulled them off on an axle he bough

mudtoy67
03-18-2008, 06:42 PM
Well, decided to send the arms back today. It's not like I'm in a rush for these things, and I don't really feel like messing with fixing them.:(

JeepPhisherman
03-18-2008, 08:54 PM
Well, decided to send the arms back today. It's not like I'm in a rush for these things, and I don't really feel like messing with fixing them.:(

Good deal if he's refunding you the cash. I've seen a few high-steer setups out there if you want me to keep an eye out.

mudtoy67
06-01-2008, 10:04 PM
Ok, it's been two months, time for an update.:)

Neighbors came over today and we put the body back on the frame. I built some sawhorses to put the frame on, then we set the body down. I'm going to chop the rear and make a pickup cab. Also planning on cleaning up the firewall...will probably have to do a little floorboard work as well.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/6-1a.jpg

This is the section I'm planning on removing

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/6-1b.jpg


The tailgates should line up about with the top of the step in the rear floorboard. Just in front of that I plan on recessing the fuel cell into the floor. Not sure what I am going to do with the floor. I've had some thoughts about trying to drill the spot welds out and sell the sheet metal to some cruiser junkie...but it's probably not worth the time.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/6-1c.jpg

Reckless
06-01-2008, 11:03 PM
Ive been planning the same idea with my jeep.

eight
06-01-2008, 11:09 PM
Just what are you going to gain from decreasing the storage space in this jeep?

Reckless
06-01-2008, 11:42 PM
a pickup bed worth of space and lots of rust removed

mudtoy67
06-01-2008, 11:51 PM
Get this jeep talk outta my thread!:angry:

:flipoff2:

eight
06-02-2008, 12:38 AM
I was asking BDR.

mudtoy67
06-02-2008, 07:21 AM
I'm going for an FJ45 look. After I shorten the cab I'm going to make a narrow bed for it using Chevy LUV bedsides. The bed will be just wide enough for a plastic storage box, then a cooler rack behind it.

And don't ever call it a jeep again...;)

mudtoy67
06-04-2008, 09:58 PM
Picked up the LUV bedsides last night. I'll have to shorten them on either side of the wheelwell and probably take 2-3 inches off the bottom.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2195.jpg

eight
06-04-2008, 10:36 PM
Why not use the cruiser bedsides to make bedsides out of? Would be sure to match.

mudtoy67
06-04-2008, 11:03 PM
There's not going to be enough FJ40 bedside left, and I like the look the lwb 45's had with the overhanging rail with hooks.

uglyota
06-04-2008, 11:05 PM
Cool idea, you get the tailgate too?

mudtoy67
06-04-2008, 11:12 PM
No, I'll have to figure something out on that later. I think the LUV tailgate had "chevrolet" stamped in it also.

Reckless
06-04-2008, 11:17 PM
cut that out and put a piece of blank steel in. LMC might have a blank tail gate

davido
06-04-2008, 11:21 PM
I couldn't picture it until you posted that. They actually remind me of a 45. Pretty slick idea. I assume it's not original. :)

mudtoy67
06-05-2008, 06:58 AM
cut that out and put a piece of blank steel in. LMC might have a blank tail gate

Might try that, most of it would be cut out anyway since the bed is going to be narrow.



I couldn't picture it until you posted that. They actually remind me of a 45. Pretty slick idea. I assume it's not original. :)

The idea? Sure it's original, unless I picked it up somewhere subconciously. ;)

BMFScout
06-05-2008, 01:21 PM
No, I'll have to figure something out on that later. I think the LUV tailgate had "chevrolet" stamped in it also.

why wouldn't that work, it's basically a chevy anyway!

CheapJeep
06-05-2008, 01:41 PM
Cool stuff. Will it stay at the same wheelbase or do you have to stretch the rear a bit?

J Cooper
06-05-2008, 01:49 PM
i thought those were bed sides off a hilux
... you should just find one of those beds then you would have a stamped toyota tailgate

mudtoy67
06-05-2008, 09:16 PM
why wouldn't that work, it's basically a chevy anyway!

:flipoff2:


Cool stuff. Will it stay at the same wheelbase or do you have to stretch the rear a bit?

I gave up on the stock wheelbase idea. I want to move the engine back almost to the firewall, and I ditched the powerglide idea, so I'm gonna need a little more wheelbase.


i thought those were bed sides off a hilux
... you should just find one of those beds then you would have a stamped toyota tailgate

Either way the tailgate is going to be too narrow for the stamped lettering. I'm considering getting a LUV tailgate so that it matches the bedsides, but I'm also considering using my stock swingout tailgates.

Reckless
06-05-2008, 09:49 PM
swing out would look so much nicer

mudtoy67
06-08-2008, 10:00 PM
Got the bed cut out tonight. First welded in some braces to keep the body from getting out of whack once I cut the sides. Then cut the bed out...I really gotta get a recipricating saw, it took me 4 4.5" grinder cut-off wheels, 2 die grinder cut-offs, and 1 jig saw blade.:laughing:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/braces.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/nobed.jpg

mudtoy67
06-15-2008, 05:42 PM
:eek:

AggieTJ2007
06-15-2008, 07:00 PM
hmm, interesting

mudtoy67
06-15-2008, 10:34 PM
so....lots of chopping today:D

Turns out the rear of the cruiser is bolted on to the back of the door frame. This made it pretty easy to remove as the only weld I had to remove was at the top rail. This is the plan I had originally...

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2211.jpg

the idea was to mount the tank directly behind the main beam of the cab then enclose it with the rear of the tub. After mocking up the 105" wheelbase, I found that this would have most likely resulted in the rear of the tub coming into contact with the tire on full stuff...you can see the rear of the tank is already behind the front of the 33" tire (and I'm going w/ 36's). So now what I'll have is the cab will end just behind the seats and the tank will be in the front of the bed.

I did a bunch of measuring on the seats been using, and determined how much cab I needed to be able to clear seats mounted in a similar location. So here it is mocked up.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2214.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2217.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2218.jpg

I still have some cleaning up to do where the rear of the tub meets the door frame, and I'll tack it in place till it's cage time. I'll also need to make a fill panel where the doors were, finish out the floorboard, and make a fill panel to transition the bottom of the rocker panel to meet the bottom of the rear corners.

mudtoy67
06-15-2008, 10:42 PM
Another thing I came across while mocking up the wheelbase...I shouldn't need to extend the frame any to make the suspension work for 105". Probably just build the rear shackle hanger off the back of the bumper. I'm going to continue to use the stock springs, the fronts will be in stock location but 180'd for about 3" extra wheelbase in front, then the rears will be 180'd as well and relocated rearward.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2216.jpg

davido
06-15-2008, 10:49 PM
That's slick man. I would be afraid to take mine that far apart. I'd have a 4 year old kid by the time it made it back to the trail. :) I'd like to stretch my wheelbase, but even that is probably too much to take on for a while. Really looking forward to seeing this done BDR. Cool idea!

mudtoy67
06-15-2008, 11:02 PM
Thanks! I wouldn't be surprised if my kid is 4 years old before I finish...:D

I thought you did stretch your wheelbase?

davido
06-16-2008, 10:49 AM
I did originally. I'm like 103. I wouldn't mind being 110 - 112 though.

FJAggie07
06-16-2008, 10:57 AM
I love the idea of a 45 look. This is turning into a REAL sweet little project.

mudtoy67
06-16-2008, 07:38 PM
Noticed this while doing some measurements on the frame....gonna have to do a little swiss cheese repair.:(

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2220.jpg

Seth
06-16-2008, 09:03 PM
thats fawkin awesome. looks like the moon lander or somethin. heh.

mudtoy67
06-24-2008, 11:29 PM
Got the rear frame cleaned up. I've realized I hate freakin' rivets...Toyota riveted the hell out of this thing. I also had to grind off a bunch of turd weld I had done back in the day.:D

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2227.jpg

After I finished cleaning it up I used a flap disk and removed the rust/gunk from the area of the frame where the bend will be. Then I did a lot of measuring and marked a line about 1" in front of the rearmost body mount. After marking both sides, top and bottom of the rails, and making double sure everything was square, I used a cutoff wheel to "scribe" a line on the frame rail. My thinking on this was this would give the frame a little incentive to bend right there, and if I had to heat the frame the mark wouldn't be burned off. I also welded in some bracing to keep the frame square once the last crossmember is cut out.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2233.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2234.jpg

Got the frame rails straightened tonight. I cut a groove in the top and bottom of each rail, then used a ratchet strap to pull the rails together. I was surprised to find the rails are very easy to bend...i didn't have to heat them at all (aside from the heat from cutting the top and bottom). The rails come out to be 31-3/4" from inside to inside, which is about an inch wider than my fuel cell. Soon as I find some rear bumper material I'll weld the bumper on and weld the grooves in the frame rails. Will probably add some reinforcing plating at the bend as well.


before
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2230.jpg

after
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2235.jpg

Graystroke
06-25-2008, 12:22 AM
are those stacey braces you are using?

mudtoy67
06-25-2008, 07:07 AM
If by stacey braces you mean old chopped up metal fence I got from the scrap yard, then yes.;)

Fredo
06-25-2008, 08:21 AM
ah stacey bars....excellent.

mudtoy67
06-25-2008, 08:31 AM
ok, what are stacey bars?

uglyota
06-25-2008, 08:52 AM
very nice work!

Fredo
06-25-2008, 10:01 AM
The term Stacey bars came about one night while drinking beer and getting ready to hack the **** out of the back of Jimmy's scout. Flem was suggesting that before any cutting should be done, we should put some braces in there. I believe Jimmy said something like, "Oh, like they do on that show trucks" Which Flem replied to by saying, "yeah, we'll put some Stacey Bars in there to keep it all braced up for the sick fab" So from that point on, we've always refferred to bracing as Stacey bars.

mudtoy67
06-25-2008, 10:23 AM
Ah, I figured that was probably the Stacey yall were talking about...



Dallas<-------------------------------->BDR

:D

Seth
06-25-2008, 10:44 AM
I did not know what the bars were, but I def knew which Stacey you were referring to!

agjohn02
06-25-2008, 04:05 PM
nice triangulation of the stacey bars too

davido
06-25-2008, 05:13 PM
That's it. The next person that writes Stacey Bars is going to get pistol whipped!

:)

Reckless
06-25-2008, 05:14 PM
What size tubing is those stacey bars?:flipoff2:

JeepPhisherman
06-25-2008, 05:57 PM
are = plural
is = singular

bars = plural

FJAggie07
06-25-2008, 07:14 PM
are = plural
is = singular

bars = plural

Cox? Is it really you?

Reckless
06-25-2008, 08:53 PM
are = plural
is = singular

bars = plural

Fock off fag. Go get plural with a tsip

BMFScout
06-25-2008, 10:17 PM
That's it. The next person that writes Stacey Bars is going to get pistol whipped!

:)

STACEY BARS!!!

...and if you try to pistol whip me I will roman candle whip your ass in the parking lot of the A&A! :gigem:

DRAGOONRANCH
06-25-2008, 10:57 PM
What size tubing is those stacey bars?:flipoff2:


are = plural
is = singular

bars = plural


Sounds like good ol' plain southern speak to me. Of course you would have known this had you been from a 'real' southern state and not one just pretending to be....














:flipoff2:

DRAGOONRANCH
06-25-2008, 10:58 PM
Oh, and STACEy BARs!!!

David, you bring the piston and the man in the chicken suit, I'll bring the baby oil and the camera. What goes on in Clayton stays in Clayton.

:rainbow:???

Reckless
06-26-2008, 12:49 AM
That's it. The next person that writes Stacey Bars is going to get pistol whipped!

:)


What size tubing is those stacey bars?:flipoff2:


STACEY BARS!!!

...and if you try to pistol whip me I will roman candle whip your ass in the parking lot of the A&A! :gigem:

Beat ya too it:flipoff2:

JeepPhisherman
06-26-2008, 07:25 AM
Sounds like good ol' plain southern speak to me. Of course you would have known this had you been from a 'real' southern state and not one just pretending to be....


Texas is overrated.


"Long live the Confederacah"
http://www.geocities.com/augustium/Politics/CartmanLee.gif

mudtoy67
06-30-2008, 09:03 PM
You guys are totally :rainbow:...:flipoff2:


Anyway...


The crossmember that I removed was a tube that went through the two brackets on the frame. So I removed what was left of the tube where it was welded, cleaned up the holes, and slipped the crossmember back in to the brackets. I'll weld this in at the same time I tack the bumper in place. I also flipped it around, since with the new wheelbase the upper shock mounts are in the right place to mount the lower shock mounts on the front of the axle. I probably won't use the stock upper mounts though, I'll put some new mounts in the center of the crossmember.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2238.jpg

Let the obligatory mock-ups begin...:D

This is the spring at 105" center pin to pin. I used a high tech spring mock-up system to hang the spring in its approximate position.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2236.jpg

Here's where the fuel cell will be. I'll have to wait till I get a drivetrain in to see how high it will need to be for driveshaft clearance. I want to keep it as low as possible for COG and so that I can run a regular filler neck on the cell.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2239.jpg

mudtoy67
06-30-2008, 09:10 PM
Here's a little bed mock-up. I threw the LUV bedside up to see if I could get an idea what it would look like...but it's about 41" too long.:P From the back of the cab to the back of the bumper is about 36.5".

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2240.jpg

I through the sides of the FJ body I cut out just for fun. This gives a little better idea of how it may look.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2243.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2244.jpg

AggieTJ2007
06-30-2008, 09:17 PM
looks good

Shaggy
07-01-2008, 09:22 AM
this is gonna look cool

mudtoy67
07-08-2008, 11:29 PM
Got LUV? :)

Tacked the two ends of the bed together. My thought was to try without the wheel well first, then if I still want it I can add it in there.

I'm not sure about if the wheel well will look better or not. If I put the wheel well in I'll have to put in a fill panel behind it anyway to cover the frame. I chopped a wheel well onto one of the pics...thoughts?

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2249.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2247.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2247b.jpg

agjohn02
07-08-2008, 11:31 PM
you should dove it from the edge of the bulkhead to the width you have it at the rear now. sorta like jimmys scout.

DRAGOONRANCH
07-08-2008, 11:39 PM
I like it with out the wheel well, if it's going to be that far inboard anyways, do you really need it.

mudtoy67
07-09-2008, 06:50 AM
It's a little late for the dovetail now. I think dovetails look good, but I was looking at doing something a little different anyway.

I didn't really measure, so the tire may actually sit in a little closer to the body. Still, the wheel well would be more for looks than function because it would only be about 1-2" deep.

jerryg79
07-09-2008, 06:58 AM
i really have no idea what you are doing to this poor thing.:confused2

mudtoy67
07-09-2008, 07:02 AM
Preparing it for the scrap yard, but making it look like I'm doing something to it so I don't look like a quitter.;)

uglyota
07-09-2008, 09:04 AM
boatside?

mudtoy67
07-09-2008, 10:42 AM
I'll probably just stick with sliders for now. The angle iron ones I had before worked pretty well, I'll just need to extend them back and around the corner of the tub.

uglyota
07-09-2008, 10:44 AM
no I mean for the bedsides. Might look cool?

mudtoy67
07-09-2008, 10:58 AM
That's possible...I was planning on trimming the bottom even or just below the frame (like the picture), but I could angle the cut upward and cover the gap with sheetmetal to look like a boatside.

BMFScout
07-09-2008, 11:50 AM
Check out the newest issue of Crawl, there is a 'cruiser in there I think you would nut over.

bburris
07-09-2008, 11:50 AM
Why is it too late to dovetail it?

mudtoy67
07-09-2008, 12:06 PM
I guess it's not too late... though everything is already cut too short to bring the bedsides in at an angle.

DRAGOONRANCH
07-09-2008, 12:20 PM
Yeah, dovetail it, be like the rest of the sheeple out there. :rolleyes:


Yall leave the man alone, atleast he is workin on it. :flipoff2:

bburris
07-09-2008, 12:51 PM
I'm not messing with him, I was just curious. Dovetailing it would be cool, but I think I see what you're trying to do with the bed being so narrow. Could you integrate some floating trailer fenders? Could end up ghetto, but would definitely be unique...

Fredo
07-09-2008, 01:16 PM
I think that beside looks funny to me because it's curvyness doesn't reall match the rest of the look. I was trying to think of a bed that would be slightly more fitting to the whole truck theme and I thought maybe a M715-ish bed would look pretty cool on there. Wouldn't be too hard to build, or make narrow, and you could do something more like a half a trailer fender instead of the non-lipped arch of a M715. Just kind of thinking out loud.

mudtoy67
07-09-2008, 01:17 PM
I'm not messing with him, I was just curious. Dovetailing it would be cool, but I think I see what you're trying to do with the bed being so narrow. Could you integrate some floating trailer fenders? Could end up ghetto, but would definitely be unique...

I did think about some sort of fenders like that....kind of a stepside look. But I haven't seen any out there that would look right.

mudtoy67
07-09-2008, 01:29 PM
I think that beside looks funny to me because it's curvyness doesn't reall match the rest of the look. I was trying to think of a bed that would be slightly more fitting to the whole truck theme and I thought maybe a M715-ish bed would look pretty cool on there. Wouldn't be too hard to build, or make narrow, and you could do something more like a half a trailer fender instead of the non-lipped arch of a M715. Just kind of thinking out loud.

I have seen a build where a guy used real FJ45 bedsides for his... to me it looks like too much flat area without the wheel well, and a bit boxy looking. I think bedsides like on the M715 would come out similar. The thing is the front clip is a lot more curvy than the tub, then the bed may look too boxy in comparison. I think once this thing is a little more together these bedsides will look a little less out of place.

jerryg79
07-09-2008, 01:34 PM
I have seen a build where a guy used real FJ45 bedsides for his... to me it looks like too much flat area without the wheel well, and a bit boxy looking. I think bedsides like on the M715 would come out similar. The thing is the front clip is a lot more curvy than the tub, then the bed may look too boxy in comparison. I think once this thing is a little more together these bedsides will look a little less out of place.

so is that what you are doing? cause that isnt half as ghetto as what i thought you had in mind.

BMFScout
07-09-2008, 01:40 PM
I say narrow and flat, no wheel wells, more old school like dees.

http://img307.imageshack.us/img307/6323/shine3nn.jpg

BMFScout
07-09-2008, 03:31 PM
http://dallas.craigslist.org/pts/736393289.html

bburris
07-09-2008, 05:52 PM
Now that you posted that picture it makes a lot more sense now. Please proceed with your current plans, I will await a finished project patiently.

mudtoy67
07-09-2008, 06:03 PM
I say narrow and flat, no wheel wells, more old school like dees.

http://img307.imageshack.us/img307/6323/shine3nn.jpg


hmmm...wonder if there is a speed record for FJ40s?:)

Graystroke
07-09-2008, 06:42 PM
I like the m715 idea. you could do a roll at the top (like old p/u model T) and make it a little bigger and that would give you the fender effect...is that what you were saying fred or were you actually talking about a 1/4" thick arched fender lip like they already have?

mudtoy67
07-11-2008, 10:47 PM
For the first time in years, something on this rig has actually been put together.:gigem:

Got the rear crossmember welded in tonight.

measure, measure, measure, weld, weld, measure, weld, weld, measure, check level, weld, weld, weld, weld, weld, weld...

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2255.jpg

Graystroke
07-11-2008, 11:02 PM
those stacey bars sure come in handy!

mudtoy67
07-11-2008, 11:23 PM
That they do!:D

mudtoy67
07-20-2008, 11:11 PM
Got the rear bumper built. I'll leave the ends unfinished until cage time...I'm thinking the rear tubes of the cage will be outside the fenders to protect the tail-lights and will mount to the bumper ends.

The holes on either side of the receiver are for hitch pin clearance. I'll put in a half of a square tube on either side to close it back up behind the pin hole.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2258.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2261.jpg

JeepPhisherman
07-21-2008, 06:53 AM
You probably could have just redriled the reciever tube? All of the hitch inserts I've got have atleast 8" between the pin hole and the drop section.

mudtoy67
07-21-2008, 07:15 AM
I looked at all the drop hitches at Northern Tool, and my Warn D-ring mount at home, and there was just not any room to move the hole back. Any more and the D-ring would interfere with the bumper.

I did a lot of searching to what other people have done, but couldn't come up with anything conclusive as to what needed to be done. It had just enough length that if I flush mounted the outside face it would have worked, but I like the look better when it sticks out a bit.

DRAGOONRANCH
07-21-2008, 08:11 AM
Get a piece of pipe and cut it in half length wise instead of the square tubing. It would be mo' peemp.

Looks good :gigem:

agjohn02
07-21-2008, 08:51 AM
i guess my tube was a little longer than that one.

mudtoy67
07-21-2008, 09:04 AM
I saw yours and couldn't figure out what to do to make mine work. If I was just using regular drop hitches, I could have just redrilled them to match. But the Warn D-ring mount doesn't have any extra meat on the end to redrill.

I like the tube filler idea...I'll check it out.

mudtoy67
01-14-2009, 10:57 AM
I've got to get the axles back together if I'm gonna move, so I've been doing so planning...

I remember Flem or Fred (or both) at one point told me that my TBI computer, even though my trans is not electronic, still needs a speed signal to operate a little more properly. So since my Isuzu D44 already has a VSS built in with tone ring on the carrier, I was going to find a way to use this. I'm wondering though, if I'm not using an electronic trans or care about a speedo, does it matter that the tone ring on the Isuzu is not going to give the same number of pulses per mile as the chevy VSS would? All the computer really needs is a signal to tell it if the vehicle is moving/stationary/speeding up/slowing down, right?

Now I'm thinking what would be the best way to accomplish this. I could sell my current 4.56 gearset and pick up a set of thick 4.56 so that I can use the stock carrier. Problem with this is thick 4.56 gears are expensive new and pretty much non-existant used. So my other idea is use the stock thick 4.10 gears for the D44, then pick up a set of used 4.10 gears for the FJ front...which are a little easier to come by. This would save me from having to set up the pita Dana axle, and instead set up the easy FJ third.

I'm planning on running ~36" tires. With the TH350/D300 and 4.10s I still have a lower ratio than the TH350/NP205 w/ 4.56s. I'm also planning a 231 crawl box, so really the 4.10s shouldn't be an issue.

Any thoughts?

Sharpe
01-14-2009, 01:31 PM
Custom tone rings can be made to make the VSS happy, but I think its a PITA. What year is your TBI puter? Chevy didnt start using VSS until 1991 so you might be able to use a different puter. Another option is to reprogram it to eliminate the VSS. I dont have the slightest clue how this works but I had it removed on my 8.1 and it runs like a raped ape so take that for what its worth.

mudtoy67
01-14-2009, 01:37 PM
engine is a 92, computer is an 87 or 88 (the typical xxxx7747 computer). I have the computer for the 92, which is what I want to run since the mismatched computer may be part of the problem...but I need to get the vats removed.

stx4wheeler
01-14-2009, 05:49 PM
bdr randys r&P had dana 44 thick gear sets for like 150 new that doesnt seem to bad to me.

bcolman
01-14-2009, 06:40 PM
\Chevy didnt start using VSS until 1991 so you might be able to use a different puter.

my blazer is a 90 and it has vss, after i swapped the transfer case out i havent figured out a way to plug it back in, because of this my transmission doesnt shift right(it holds first and second gear to long and i dont think i have ever made it to third), other than that every thing seems to work find

mudtoy67
01-14-2009, 08:58 PM
bdr randys r&P had dana 44 thick gear sets for like 150 new that doesnt seem to bad to me.

Ya, the USA Standard brand. I haven't found much information anywhere about them. The information I have found sounds like they are hit or miss. I'd like to go with the Yukons since they've been pretty reliable all around, but a set of those from Randy's is $219.

mudtoy67
02-02-2009, 08:24 PM
Ok, change of direction.:D


Karl delivered a sweet piece of Klogger history yesterday...the Ford 9". Plans are to narrow it to 57" wms, swap to 4.56 gears, weld it, and some sort of disk brakes. I'll need an e-brake, so I'm thinking since I already have the d44 disk parts I might see about making an adapter bracket. If they won't work I may look more into the Ford 8.8 disk brake swap. I can do that when I narrow it because the 8.8 brackets supposedly require the Torino ends.

mudtoy67
02-16-2009, 12:43 AM
Built the shackle hangers this weekend. Picked up the sleeves and bushings from Coop and Scott on saturday. I kinda messed up cause I made the hangers centered, and after I had already drilled the holes for the sleeve remembered they need to be offset. I'll just trim the end off that hangs past the bumper. Also had to make a couple extra trips to Lowes. I drove out there when I realized that the YJ bushings take 9/16" bolts. Came back and got to working, then realized I need a 9/16" drill bit to make 9/16" holes for 9/16" bolts through the shackles...so I went back.:rolleyes::laughing:

I'm not sure about the shackle angle. I figured since I'm using the stock springs, I should mount the hangers the same distance apart. At that distance the shackle seemed like it leaned too far forward, so I moved the hanger 1" closer. What do yall think?

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2409.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2412.jpg

I also finished the caps on the backside of the bumper.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2410.jpg

mudtoy67
04-19-2009, 10:11 PM
Spring hangers done. I'll make some nicer shackles once I get it back on its wheels and figure out how long they need to be.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2265.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2267.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2269.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2432.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2433.jpg

mudtoy67
04-19-2009, 10:33 PM
Almost done shaving the front axle. I used the "bucket method" pointed out in the ford 9" thread to mark the housing.:p

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2434.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2435.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2436.jpg

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2438.jpg

With some cleaning up and the old drain plug hole filled.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2439.jpg

3/8" plate for the new skid. I don't think I'm gaining a whole lot of clearance, but the skid will be nice for sliding over rocks. Looking back, I don't think I should have extended the cut into the front cover, but should have stopped where the cover meets the housing. It's going to be a bit difficult to get a nice transition from the cover to the plate without a lip. Should be ok though.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2443.jpg

uglyota
04-20-2009, 10:59 AM
super nice work! Should be easy to drag onto the trailer next time you have to move all your crap :flipoff2:

mudtoy67
06-28-2009, 05:41 PM
Finally an update! :D

Skid welded in

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2451.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2475.jpg

I picked up some ring gear armor. It was made for the 8" pickup axle but with a little massaging fit just right. Butting it up to the skid also smooths out the transition.

Guard tacked up

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2463.jpg

I had to make some small filler plates at the corners of the skid

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2466.jpg

Everything welded up and smoothed out

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2478.jpg

mudtoy67
06-28-2009, 05:51 PM
Picked up a Marlin knuckle gusset kit. The upper one seems a bit overkill but it also serves as the shock mount.

Lower tacked up

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2468.jpg

Upper tacked up

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2469.jpg

All welded up. I left the end of the upper near the knuckle bearing unwelded because it will probably need to be ground some to clear the knuckle felts/wipers.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2472.jpg

I decided to relocate the fill plug a little higher. With the pinion rotated up I lose a bit of oil capacity. I started to put it near the top of the cover where it would face up but decided not to. For one the high steer would be in the way when I go to fill it, also I would need to make some sort of dipstick to check the oil level. I used a Ballistic weld in bung.

I cut the old plug out with a hole saw then filled it

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2470.jpg

New bung installed

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2471.jpg

You can see the difference from the inside

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2476.jpg

davido
06-28-2009, 05:56 PM
Looks good! I need some shackles also. :)

mudtoy67
06-28-2009, 06:02 PM
Couple more pics of everything cleaned up

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2473.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2479.jpg

This should be it for the fab work on the front axle. Only thing left to do will be to fab up a truss/brackets to mount the hydro assist. I probably won't do that till later in the build.

I've got about 99% of the parts I need to put this axle back together. I need to source some hardware for the steering arms. I need to start cleaning things up for assembly...somehow I've got to figure out how to make an axle out of all this crap...:laughing:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2467.jpg

I've also been working on the Ford 9" swap. I was going to use the housing I originally picked up, but after cleaning it up a bit found a lot of pitting. I feel if I'm putting so much time into this thing I should get a housing that doesn't look all pitted after it's cleaned up and painted. I've been through a couple other housings since then that just didn't work out...seems I've got a bit of a Ford 9 graveyard going. :laughing:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2449.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2480.jpg

TxCruzr
06-28-2009, 09:42 PM
looks like you need to put the potting soil down and get to work :flipoff2:

DRAGOONRANCH
06-28-2009, 11:04 PM
:laughing:

mudtoy67
07-07-2009, 08:54 AM
Picked up the last of the hardware for the steering arms yesterday. Still gotta pick up some moly grease, a few wheel studs, and some ospho. Got the day off Friday...should have a complete axle by Sunday!:beer:

DRAGOONRANCH
07-07-2009, 10:07 AM
Sounds like a wiener to me there Mr. Red Adaire...

mudtoy67
07-19-2009, 09:15 PM
Well, hadn't made it quite as far as I hoped. Spent a lot of time last weekend with the new house deal.

Last weekend I got everything in that pile a few posts back organized and started cleaning things up. Took a wirewheel and a stripping disk and got the housing down to bare metal. I installed the knuckles to figure out where I need to trim the marlin gussets. Came out to about 1/2" from the edge of the upper race. They still make contact at full turn, I need to grind the "point" off and make a straight edge from the weld to the upper radius.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2487.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2488.jpg

I also fabbed up the steering stops using the plates included in the marlin gusset kit and some 3/4" x 1/8" strap.

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2484.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2486.jpg
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii297/mudtoy67/DSCN2489.jpg

We close on the new house August 31st...so I guess I better get cookin':D

DRAGOONRANCH
07-19-2009, 11:17 PM
lookin good BDR

nothin' like a new garage(s) to get a guy motivated!

EDIT: forgot you gots twooz of dem now!!!

Graystroke
07-29-2009, 06:46 AM
need any of this?
http://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/pts/1294120122.html

mudtoy67
07-29-2009, 07:27 AM
No, but thanks!

uglyota
07-29-2009, 09:56 AM
Did you read that he has used headers available?!

mudtoy67
07-29-2009, 10:31 AM
Yes. He's also got four boggers, two axles, two half doors, a 6 point cage, a tcase, and a partridge in a pear tree.

:flipoff2:

BMFScout
07-29-2009, 11:22 AM
Did you read that he has used headers available?!


I'm only interested in used racing slicks at this point.

Graystroke
08-01-2009, 04:23 PM
Did you read that he has used headers available?!
as promised
http://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/pts/1294138318.html

mudtoy67
09-03-2009, 08:00 AM
It still exists...:D

J Cooper
09-03-2009, 08:06 AM
It still exists...:D

so does tates bronco :flipoff2:

mudtoy67
09-03-2009, 08:17 AM
so does tates bronco :flipoff2:

Mister...that's low.:(

FJAggie07
09-03-2009, 08:46 AM
It still exists...:D

I'll start the bidding at $50 Bob.

mudtoy67
09-03-2009, 08:51 AM
You're gonna have to do better than that. My friend Luis has already offered $500 to see it crushed at the monster truck show.:laughing:

jerryg79
09-03-2009, 08:55 AM
I'll start the bidding at $50 Bob.

Damn this thing must have some resale value if faggie wants it!

KrazyKarl02
09-03-2009, 09:55 AM
It still exists...:D

Nice Jeep :flipoff2:

mudtoy67
09-03-2009, 10:00 AM
Nice Jeep :flipoff2:

A few more hours and you may be able to say that for real.;)

jerryg79
09-03-2009, 10:21 AM
A few more hours and you may be able to say that for real.;)

i cant believe you're seriously going to put a 4.0 in that cruiser:rolleyes:

mudtoy67
09-03-2009, 10:28 AM
i cant believe you're seriously going to put a 4.0 in that cruiser:rolleyes:

You can find lots of spare parts at the junkyard!

robertf03
09-03-2009, 10:37 AM
do you still need that cherokee manifold? if not i'm throwing it out.

TxCruzr
09-03-2009, 10:55 AM
So ummm you building this for your son now, maybe he'll be able to drive it when he reaches your age.

mudtoy67
09-03-2009, 11:37 AM
Do you even drive anything bigger than 1/10th scale anymore?:flipoff2:

colman
09-03-2009, 12:01 PM
flem is that a cherokee exhaust manifold? if so i could use it if he doesn't want it

TxCruzr
09-03-2009, 12:04 PM
Do you even drive anything bigger than 1/10th scale anymore?:flipoff2:

touche! ****ing touche :laughing: