beefy steering mis alignment bushing ??????

[stx4wheeler]

alright guys i have searched through lots of the threads on hear to decide how do do my steering on the 60, and i am gonnna use one that my drag link is held on by the same bolt as the tierod. i am gonna use 3/4 inch heims, and prolly some schedule 80, how do i find out what mis alignment bushing things i need? i am running about 6-7 inches of lift, and the new tie rod and draglink will be on top of the knuckle.

hey pollock what diamter schedule 80 should i use? :gigem:

[uglyota]

Got a pic? Are you stacking the DL and TR heims on top of the knuckle? That's a big job for one bolt, especially if it's in single shear. Your DL will have tons of leverage on that bolt. Do you already have the heims? Polyperformance has integrated high misalignment bushings/heims, but if the hole in the knuckle is already drilled 3/4" you might have to step up to 7/8 or so.

[stx4wheeler]

im going to use 3/4 inch heims from sardesonracing.com for like 14 bucks a piece, and i am going to order the inserts from polyperformance, and also buy there misalignment bushings. yes i am going to stack them, the double sheer crap seems like more work than it is worth i have done some reading on our forum, and on others. it seems lots of people run it like that and dont seem to have many problems, since i am going buy cheaper heims i am going to buy one of two extra and carry an extra grade 8 bolt, even though i think it is doubtful that i will sheer the 3/4 inch grade 8 bolt, even with the added force of my ram.

what does the misalignment bushing do exactly? i have searched and really cant find anything with a good explaination, will the misalignment bushing just be sandwiched between my TR, and DL.
i should only need one misalignment bushing right?

if it seems i am making a major mistake someone let me know now cause i will have all of this stuff ordered by tomorrow.

[uglyota]

I think you are making a major mistake...see reasons above.
How much clearance are you going to lose if you just put the TR below the knuckle? That seems way safer to me.
Misalignment washers let your heim move farther without binding up on whatever it's mounted to.
you should need 2 misalignment washers for each heim that will be in misalignment...one on top and one on bottom. TR should not need them because the knuckles should always be parallel to each other.
If you have a heim at each end of your DL, you need 4 misalignment washers.
crawltech in tyler sells a misalignment bushing/safety washer that I used for the free end on mine. That keeps your steering from falling apart if the heim busts.
Here's a pic:

http://www.tamor.org/members-rigs/albums/album72/DSCN0035.jpg

[Chadnutz]

Seems like when your are turning right the drag link is pushing to the right, yet the tie rod is pulling back to the left because it is pulling a tire to the right. This should eliminate some of the total force pushing to the right on the bolt. I drew a picture, but the members rigs still isn't working.

[BMFScout]

you can't do a two hole arm setup or run the arms that run the tie rod out behind the axle? I like that idea better, but it may not be possible on this setup. However, you were here this past weekend and didn't bother to even come by and say hi, so eat my ass :)

[uglyota]

tell your parents that you're on the verge of committing bootyfab and need money for a steering arm so your truck doesn't get out of control and kill half the trailerpark
:flipoff2:

[stx4wheeler]

alright i got some questions, first off i will address jimmys question- you are saying to run a double holed hi steer arm off of the king pin cap one hole for dl, and the otehr for tierod right? basically i had seem that setup that i explained to eric about the tierod-then drag link stacked on other people rigs and it was working fine. plus i dont want to spend another 2-400 bucks in hi steer stuff that i most likely dont need, but i will do it if 100 percent necessary. and no the parents wont pay for anything on the pig, eric.

alright now eric, now if i run a twin high steer arm, or my setup you are saying i am going to need4 misalgnment bushings? http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=19&cat=98&page=1

and then 4 washers-
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=21&cat=98&page=1

Wouldnt it be just two of the spacers, one for the dL-pitman arm side, and one for the knuckle side correct?, and then a washers for the rest?

and no i am not gonna run the tie road under the knuckle cause i would lose prolly close to three inches of gc.

?? would going with one high steer arm for the drag link, and then jsut putting the tierod on top of the knuckles be kosher?

i dont think i would want full highsteer cause then i am gonna most likely run into all kinds of problems with making my ram work, and trac bar and........

i think i am more confused now then when i asked my first question, you all set me straight and give me some advice suggestions, the more i think of it my last suggestion might be what i might go with. help me i am lost :confused:

[Sharpe]

Poor, poor trailer park...

[chevsu]

High Steer!

[uglyota]

Kev I know you're trying to save the $$$ on high-steer arms, but you'll eventually go there and have to re-fab everything again, so why not spend the money now?
okay now since that's not what I'd do (choosing instead to spend a little bit less money 3 or 4 times before achieving the desired result), could you post a pic to show us what you're dealing with?
the only problem I could think of with running one high-steer arm would be if it puts your driver side tierod mount lower than your passenger side one. That would leave you with an angled tierod which may be safe but sure would look ghetto.
Try and look for crossover arms instead of hy-steer arms. you can get a crossover arm for toyotas that leaves your tierod low, but gives you another higher hole to mount your drag link to, which also settles out your dl angles (which is supposed to reduce bump and flex steer)
You only need a safety washer for the side of the heim that isn't captive by the knuckle, i.e. the outer part of the heim can't fall off towards the arm, but it may fall off over the nut, so the washer prevents that.
here are some cheaper alternatives if you don't need crazy misalignment:
http://www.crawltech.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1428&osCsid=399779cbc102c6cf4d5fc36bb9c7f11b
http://www.crawltech.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=832

but really...why not just put the TR below the knuckle? Not like the NASTY's gonna notice a little ol' 3 inches anyway... :D

[stx4wheeler]

eric why would my tierod be at an angle with a one hi steer setup. i believe nick was running the same thing on his jeep look at this pic and i drew here to get how i am now thinking of setting it up.

[Violentv8toy]

thats how mine is set up. If you get some raised arms and set the heim over the arm you won't get much, if any bumpsteer.

I'm a little confused as to what the confusion is. If u want to run it cheap drill your knuckles 3/4 and slap a tie rod on there. Buy a single arm drilled 3/4 and toss a draglink on there. If u don't have your pitman drilled, just run a regular rod end. My buddy ran hydro assist with heims on his 39" tire k5 which is similar in size to your bronco and he swapped to regular rod ends after a year cause his heims were so sloppy. I never thought that heims could get sloppy (after all, the ball doesn't move horizontally when its worn out) but it sure did feel sloppy from behind the wheel and i don't know if i'd recommend cheap heims....and thats coming from a cheap bastard.

[Violentv8toy]

also, if you want to do it on the cheap...this is what i did. I'm not sure if you are running regular rod ends, but I cut my original drag links in 1/2 and stuffed em down the pipe and plug/circle welded them to length. Its not the most beautiful thing and i wouldn't post em on the internet saying "look at my drag link, its so beautiful" but its just as strong as everyone elses and it does the job.

[uglyota]

yeah that's another thing I was gonna mention, spend the money on decent heims. I've got greasable ones from sardeson and they're pieces of poo
would you please post a pic of the freakin knuckle? I'm sure the confusion is being caused mainly by the differences between yota stuff and dana stuff
The pic you drew would be called standard crossover on a yota and is perfectly legit

[uglyota]

alright I found a pic of your boat anchor, I mean axle :flipoff2:
tell me if my labels are correct, and if so, when you go hi-steer you have to cut the arm off the front of the knuckle!?

[Violentv8toy]

what do you mean cut the arm off the front of the knuckle? Its exactly like a toyota axle. it even has 4 little bolts where the arm bolts to the knuckle. He can run whatever up front because hes got coils and he doesn't have to worry about a leaf spring in his way.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=1467&item=5591107419&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

50 dollar arm.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7982364659&category=33728&sspagename=WDVW

120 dollar arm if u want to use regular tie rod ends.

[uglyota]

I guess you could leave it on but who wants a big rusty pierced phallus sticking out the front of their knuckle after you go true histeer and everything's bolted to the arms?
frick that arm's too cheap to pass up

[BMFScout]

I guess you could leave it on but who wants a big rusty pierced phallus sticking out the front of their knuckle after you go true histeer and everything's bolted to the arms?


have you ever had to trail fix anything, hard telling what you might need, it isn't hurting anything to leave it...

Jimmy "Best Trail Fix 03-04, 04-05" Brune ;)

[Violentv8toy]

it will be tucked pretty close to the tire anyway. you can't really tell from the angle but its actually pretty high up compared to a d44.

[bburris]

...and cutting that off makes an already weak Ford knuckle even more prone to breaking.

[stx4wheeler]

i am gonna run that setup like i posted with my pic, crossover as you technically in the know people call it, i will prolly use heims for the tie rod and maybe get a tappered hi steer arm for the draglink and go from there thanks for all the help eric and everyone else.

[agjohn02]

have you ever had to trail fix anything, hard telling what you might need, it isn't hurting anything to leave it...

Jimmy "Best Trail Fix 03-04, 04-05" Brune ;)


thats exactly why i left mine on there

[uglyota]

wouldn't you have to get on the trail first :confused2
:flipoff2:

[stx4wheeler]

alright i ordered that single crossover arm, from the auction that mario posted. alright so let me go over a list of exactly what i am gonna need now so i an get it ordered and you guys can tell me right or wrong. so i and do it right the first time.

steering parts list and questions?
4 weld in inserts
tube
heims- what brand do you recomend-QA1 or which would you install if you had to do it over.
alright ? since my tie rod will be mounted on top of my knuckle ,and not be attached to my draglink, do i need either the mis alignment bushings or washers. just a washer for driverside, then another for passengerside that will go on top of the heim above the tierod correct since there shouldnt need to me a lot of misalignment.

now for the draglink- two heims, and two of the mis alignment bushings like eric posted
http://www.crawltech.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1428&osCsid=399779cbc102c6cf4d5fc36bb9c7f11b

and then a couple more saftey washers for the draglink sie of the heim that doesnt have the bushing correct.

alright tell me what i have left out, or whatever so i can order it and get this pig moving in the right direction.

Thanks a **** load guys!!!

[Shaggy]

make sure some are reverse thread so it is easier to ajust

[uglyota]

for your tie rod you will just need a heim on each side (one LH, one RH) with one safety washer on top of each. It should never be in misalignment so you shouldn't need misalignment washers.
If you want to be able to get the absolute most amount of misalignment possible on your draglink, you'll want 2 misalignment washers on each heim; one on the steering arm and one on the pitman. However, in reality you'll probably be fine with a misalignment washer on bottom and safety washer on top.
Then go to John Deere once you know how high everything stacks up and get grade 8 bolts and grade 8 locknuts...the good kind, not nylocs.
another question...should that steering arm he got have tapers for cone washers :confused2

[stx4wheeler]

alright i just ordered 4 misalignment bushings for the draglink, two saftey washers for the tierod, 4 QA1 heims 2 lh,2rh, 4 inserts 2lh,2rh, and 4 QA1 jam nuts for lh, rh. i am gonna go by my buddies house in the next day or two and get some dom from him, then go to the local bolt wharehouse/factory and buy my 3/4 grade 8 bolts and nuts and washers.

[bburris]

another question...should that steering arm he got have tapers for cone washers :confused2
no... D60s use studs or bolts to attach the steering arms

[uglyota]

thought I'd add this pic to the thread:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v157/lifenajeep/whole.jpg

[stx4wheeler]

also if anybody is going to be doing some similiar steering i have a ton of extra jam nuts 3/4 left and right hand thread that i will seel cheap, and i also have four of misalignment cones, that i will let go cheap.