The CheapJeep

[eight]

Wedge something to hold the hydrostatic lever in go.

[eight]

More power does not make more broken parts. The 258 has enough power to break things. Traction breaks parts, that's why I run slick tires.

[CJ4]

Here's the slightly dangerous yet unsafe way to try next time you're by yourself. Put the tractor in low gear with plenty of slack in the strap, and let it go. Run to jeep, get in and wait for slack to pull out, then spin the tires slowly and let the tractor pull you. Once out, put the jeep in neutral and stop the tractor. Or just get a real tractor.

ive done this with two tractors before while one had a shredder hooked up to it....fun stuff

[Sharpe]

Here's the slightly dangerous yet unsafe way to try next time you're by yourself. Put the tractor in low gear with plenty of slack in the strap, and let it go. Run to jeep, get in and wait for slack to pull out, then spin the tires slowly and let the tractor pull you. Once out, put the jeep in neutral and stop the tractor. Or just get a real tractor.
I'm curious about wtf do you do once you are unstuck and the tracotr is ghostriding towards your $20k DD? It always sound good on paper... :flipoff2:

[J Cooper]

I'm curious about wtf do you do once you are unstuck and the tracotr is ghostriding towards your $20k DD? It always sound good on paper... :flipoff2:


dont park in front of the tractor

[DRAGOONRANCH]

dont park in front of the tractor

You'll have to forgive him, do you really expect any real thought in a thread that has "jeep" in its title. :flipoff2:

[Seth]

20k daily driver??! im pulling my 5k daily driver out prob.

[Sharpe]

I was just throwing a number out there...

[CheapJeep]

I just thought of another reason why Kopecki's idea wouldn't work. The seat has a sensor in which a certain amount of weight has to be placed upon the seat in order for the tractor to move. When I was younger and didn't weigh as much I'd bounce around in the seat while mowing and the tractor would shut off.

[AggieTJ2007]

do you think a kopeki tractor has that sensor on it

[Sharpe]

If you had any kind of mechanical skill you would look under the seat and realize there are only 2 wires running to that switch, cut them and splice them together thus bypassing the switch completely.

[CheapJeep]

And if I had paid for it maybe I would have considered such an idea. If it's not mine, I don't fawk with it.

[Sharpe]

That attitude wont get you very far in life :flipoff2:

[CheapJeep]

Um, yeah I'm not about to go off and fawk with my dad's tractor. That's a bad idea mmmkay.

[Sharpe]

That shows a lack of ambition.

[CheapJeep]

Ambition of what? An arse beating? No thanks, I've learned enough from breaking and borrowing his tools, not to mention the countless other stuff I've probably ruined growing up.

[RCcola55]

he will never no, life isnt fun without risks

[BMFScout]

... Run to jeep...


The part of the story I don't believe, Kopecki running! :gigem:

[eight]

Yea I'd probably walk quick like. I've never used this method, but I would.

[Shaggy]

i used that method with the front end loader and the bronco stuck in a similar tank situation... but a tree stoped the loader before i got back to it

[CheapJeep]

Went ahead and cut the front fenders. I left the inner fenders so theres at least something to keep crap from getting under the hood. I put the saginaw pump back together and cleaned it up but I'm going to hold off on putting it in for now until I get the fittings I need and decide on how I want to run my hydro assist. The Rolls pump will just have to hold up for its last trip. :flipoff3:

Edit- And in other news, I decided to take it for a spin to show off the new body work....ahem...I mean mall crawl. I ended up running out of gas down the road and had to call my mom to come bring me some...funny story. :p

[Sharpe]

Get fittings for the new pump? Guess what, saginaw pumps and saginaw boxes were used on the same vehicles prety frequently so chances are you can get a factory hose from a parts store. When I say "chances are" I mean get a hose from a damn parts store.

[CheapJeep]

I only need one fitting. On the current pump it's a regular male/male fitting, instead of buying a whole new hose which I'd probably have to get lengthened anyway, I thought I'd just see if I could get an inverted male/male fitting. I'll pull the old pump off tomorrow morning and figure it out since my pop's won't be ready to go until mid-day. That way I can finally lay the screaming R.R. pump to rest once and for all.

[agjohn02]

an inverted male/male fitting


what? daddy never gave you the birds and bees talk?

[CheapJeep]

Ah, I was waiting for that one... :flipoff2:

[CheapJeep]

Just got back inside...man it's scorchin' out there. I had to tweak the old bracket to make it work with the Saginaw. Otherwise it swapped fine. I just need to go get some p.s. fluid.

[CheapJeep]

The saginaw pump worked awesome, it handled the welded front and 38"s fine, staying relatively cool for the few hours it ran.

In other news it's time for a new radiator and electric fans.

[colman]

was that you who was talking about how to boost the output of a cj steering pump by drilling something out bigger at tcc

[TxCruzr]

Like this.

http://westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/powersteering.html

[colman]

that doesn;t look like a cj pump but i'm sure its the same concept and on the bright side i hav4e an extra pump if i f- it up

[CheapJeep]

I ordered some new parts today. I'm hoping for them to come in and to get it together before school starts back up. Should be pretty sweet.

[AggieTJ2007]

tell us what you ordered

[CheapJeep]

you'll just have to wait until it's done... :flipoff2:

[AggieTJ2007]

fag, your sh it aint top secret

[Sharpe]

I ordered some new parts today. I'm hoping for them to come in and to get it together before school starts back up. Should be pretty sweet.
The ol' radiator cap swap? :flipoff2:

[AggieTJ2007]

I think in robbie's case it would be a steering wheel swap

[Sharpe]

I think in robbie's case it would be a steering wheel swap
:laughing:

[AggieTJ2007]

be carefull you don't want robbie to go post delete happy,

and

Be sure and take pictures, I can't wait to see you actually wheel it for more than a couple of minutes.

[Sharpe]

Screw this "skunkworks" **** I think its more like "skunkspunk" (even though I actually know what hes doing...)

[AggieTJ2007]

tell us what is he doing, it sounds like a stretch using XJ springs and rear bumper mounted shackles

[eight]

He should buy my F-150 springs. They've allready got a few extra leafs in them and give about 4" more lift than he had. They really would work great spring under.

[colman]

how much do you want for those springs?

[CheapJeep]

No thanks Kopecki, if you had some 12" lift springs I'd take em though... :flipoff2:

[eight]

I probably have about a 30 pack in them, and I'd take the same.

Robbie still owes me for some other parts anyway. Once he pays me I might tell him about the 258 york mount I found in one of my jeep parts piles.

[CheapJeep]

Yes I remember. I've been waiting for you to come back in town so I could meet up with you on that. When are you coming back?

[eight]

Some time before school starts.

[colman]

i want it, i need oba

[CheapJeep]

Did a couple of things today, got new motor mounts installed, still need to do t-case and trans tomorrow. Pulled the old radiator and fan, and got the new one in. I'll probably see about getting an electric fan setup tomorrow as well. I also removed the glass from the windshield frame since it was cracked really bad. I plan on going with a lexan windshield setup that's incorporated into the cage and new tube work I'm going to do. I have to change up the rear x to accept a fuel cell for the stretch kit and to allow more storage space. I'm also going to add a stinger/radiator hoop and change a couple of things.

An idea of how some of it may look....Just an idea.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/newpaintDriverSide_sm.jpg

[CheapJeep]

One thing I've noticed before and even earlier today as I was pulling the Jeep into the shop was the rear locker slipping. I know that the powertrax's are loud when they engage, but this was more of a grinding noise which made me think I stripped the ring and pinion. Then after it idled back down it re-engaged and everything was cool. I'm wondering if this could be a potential problem or if this is a variance of what everyone say's about them being noisy?

[CheapJeep]

Motor, trans, and t-case mounts in. Waiting on fans to put the radiator in.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Motor, trans, and t-case mounts in. Waiting on fans to put the radiator in.

What fan and where are you getting it? I need to find a good electric for the cheby.

[AggieTJ2007]

you gonna cut out all of that expensive tube?

[CheapJeep]

I was going to get a taurus fan but I sprung for a Flex-a-Lite. Got it from 4wd.com

[CheapJeep]

you gonna cut out all of that expensive tube?
Some...

[CheapJeep]

Still gathering parts and waiting on order's to show up. Got a set of XJ springs and fuel cell, thanks Colman. BlueTorch order should be here soon as well as the flex a lite fan.

[colman]

since my plans fell thru i might as well help someone else dump more money into their jeep

[CheapJeep]

Opened up all the boxes of stuff I've had waiting for me tonight. The BlueTorch rear stretch kit looks pimp... I got a couple other things from them and the flexalite fan came in. I'll start working on stuff tomorrow. Pics to come.

[colman]

i need pics of the btf setup please, i need to make a copy for myself before christmas

[CheapJeep]

I'll take some pics tomorrow. I didn't get any work done on the Jeep today, I ended up putting a new system in my dd, then went for a ride in a family friend's 65 Stingray Vette. Man was that awesome, pics will follow.

[CheapJeep]

Made a little bit of progress today...I actually opened all the boxes and started messing with stuff. Mounted the e-fan to the radiator and dropped it in. I still need to do all the wiring. If I don't go to buzzfest tomorrow I'll do the wiring and start on the stretch. I need to get it on stands and start taking the rear crossmember off, then drop the tank, etc... All the hardware looks great though. BlueTorch makes some quality stuff....

I'm working on uploading the pics right now.

[CheapJeep]

Here's some pics.

Family friends 65 Stingray...thing is pretty sick.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/angelasvette3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/angelasvette2.jpg

My one of many helper's....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/princessroxy.jpg

The good's...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/rearbumper2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/yourname.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/partsstretch3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/partsstretch.jpg

E-fan and radiator mounted together
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/radfan.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/partsstretchgarage.jpg

[agjohn02]

bluetorch parts do look nice.

that sure is a small shroud.

[robertf03]

i think you are going to need another fan

[CheapJeep]

Me too... It's not really what I had expected, so now I'm considering my options. I could run a puller fan from the front side inline with the pusher fan, or I could try and return it (I'm pretty sure this won't work because it's been well over 30 days if that's their return policy.) Flexalite dual fan setup's are pretty pricey so I don't think I want to go that route, then again I'm still kind of skeptical about the whole junkyard dual fan setup...

I'll contemplate on this while I shovel horse poop for awhile....then off to wrench on the Jeep. I'm going to get it on stands today and take out the rear crossmember, maybe get the frame mount's for the kit welded up.

[Reckless]

Thats the kind of dog i want, welsh corrgies are bad ass.

[eight]

Nothing wrong with junk yard fans. Just make sure to get them from a newish vehicle. They're probably higher quality and will last longer than aftermarket stuff anyway.

If you trimmed on the shrouds, could you get 2 of those to fit on that radiator?

[sasquatch]

yea, i picked up a pair of fans at gordons for 40. worked great at 47 yesterday. temp stayed between 160 and 190

[CheapJeep]

I'm pretty sure I could get 2 on there, the outer edge of the shroud has rubber stripping but I'm sure I could restrip it after cutting it down. I know that alot of people in the club are running Taurus and other e-fans from junkyards, I just have to find the right size to fit my wittle bitty wadiator... Really I don't think it's the size of the actual fan that will be the probem, moreso the lack of shroud. I need to check but I know that the cfm rating is up there....

[CheapJeep]

Another pic of my helper...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/RoxyDoodle.jpg

I also took out the windshield awhile back before it came out in my face...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/jeepgarage.jpg

[robertf03]

why not just take the frame off?

[agjohn02]

I could run a puller fan from the front side inline with the pusher fan


this is not what we are talking about. mass flow is not going to be your problem. the problem is you're only pulling air through about 2/3 of the area of your rad. the other 1/3 is going to have little to no airflow over it on the trail. im sure the fan is adequate, you just need a bigger shroud. if you have room for it, which i doubt with the 258, go to eaker and see if he has an aluminum shroud you could put between the fan and rad that will cover the rad. my scout rad is only about an inch wider than yours and the taurus fan fit well. im not sure on the height difference though. there are plenty of cars out there with good fans and small radiators.

[agjohn02]

I know that alot of people in the club are running Taurus and other e-fans from junkyards, I just have to find the right size to fit my wittle bitty wadiator...


the taurus fan should fit your rad. i know the jeep guys on pirate are using them.

[stx4wheeler]

yeah i had that exact tiny flexalite fan on the big nasty, it didnt draw hardly any air, it might work on little jeep motor though, that blue torch stuff looks awesome.

[eight]

Taurus fan no fit on my jeep when it had the 258s. I tell you get fans from 03 malibu.

[CheapJeep]

You're right Cox, after looking at it I really need a larger shroud that will cover the whole area of the radiator. I'll check a couple places like Eaker and Smiley's to see what they have, if nothing comes up I'll find a setup from a Malibu like you suggested Kopecki.

I didn't really do much today, I ended up going to Buzzfest for awhile instead of wrenching.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

if you have room for it, which i doubt with the 258, go to eaker and see if he has an aluminum shroud you could put between the fan and rad that will cover the rad.

who is this eaker you speak of?

[CheapJeep]

Eaker Performance in Bryan. They carry alot of performance parts, fittings, brackets, etc... and they're local so you don't have to order online or anything. I bought a few things from them and their prices are pretty competitive with Smiley's and other racing/performance shops.

[mudtoy67]

Jonothan Eaker normally keeps a thin (probably 2-3" deep) aluminium fan shroud in stock for the dirt track guys. It would probably work.

Address is 2210 Maloney. 979-775-7223.

[sasquatch]

why don't you either try to return it or sell it somewhere for cost; then buy the right dimension fan/fans either new or junkyard used(way cheaper). rather than ****** rigging a shroud over that flexlite fan

[TxCruzr]

why don't you either try to return it or sell it somewhere for cost; then buy the right dimension fan/fans either new or junkyard used(way cheaper). rather than ****** rigging a shroud over that flexlite fan


ala EBAY

[sasquatch]

although now i just saw that you wrote asshat on the fan...

[DRAGOONRANCH]

although now i just saw that you wrote asshat on the fan...

it is rather fittin though don't you think. ;)

[Sharpe]

although now i just saw that you wrote asshat on the fan...
The irony is almost unbearable :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

[CheapJeep]

Just got done in the shop for tonight. I pulled the gas tank skid and dropped the tank which ended up being almost all the way full... Got the frame up on stands and started to disconnect everything to pull the rear axle. Tomorrow I should get the axle pulled, frame smoothed, stretch kit welded on, etc...

2 things I see as being problems... First off I already know I'm going to have to cut the rear downtubes that X on the cage in order to run the fuel cell where I want it and still have room for tools, cooler, etc... This will be completed with other tube work I have planned. Secondly, I'm pretty damn sure I have a problem with my rear axle. First would be the rear lockright that I keep hearing/feeling disengage and grind. Also after looking closely at it the housing looks bent. If you look, both rear tires angle upward, this hasn't proven to be a problem so far, but I imagine if I have to replace a shaft it could be difficult.... :p My solution so far is to just run it as is until I have a serious issue then I'll replace it.

[TxCruzr]

I pulled the gas tank skid and dropped the tank which ended up being almost all the way full...

Its called using a siphon and a bucket, you should try it next time :gigem:

[JeepPhisherman]

Or you could have just done donuts until you ran out of gas.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

put it up on blocks and ran it in reverse and killed two birds with one stone.

[Sharpe]

Yah Robbie with your ability to suck a golfball through a garden hose siphoning gas would be right nup your alley.

On a related note, when I had to replace the fuel pump in my crewcab, the 35 gallon tank was about 3/4 of the way full. I had no jacks or anything so I had to do it with the truck sitting on the ground and as I discovered, later model chevy tanks ahve a check ball in the filler neck. I'm sure its normal purpose is to keep gas from spilling out if the tank is inverted but it also serves to prevent you from being able to stick a hose down into the tank to siphon the gas out. That sucked.

[CheapJeep]

Anyone else remember this past TCC when my fuel pump went out and I had a full tank? That sucked.

I got the rear axle pulled and started working on grinding the rear shackle mounts and pulling the rear crossmember off. I really need a torch or plasma to get this shiznit off...I used a 4 1/2" cutoff wheel and 7 1/2" grinder the first time when I did the full width front and smoothed the frame rails, but this time it's proving to be much more difficult and especially since the Jeep isn't hanging from scaffolding.

[CheapJeep]

Sonovab!tch! I'm almost positive that BlueTorch accidently packaged the wrong stretch kit though the invoice reads CJ....it seems to be way too wide to fit correctly. I'll call them on Monday and find out exactly what the deal is. Damnit...this pretty much stopped forward progress for the weekend.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Dimmit boy, I hate to hear that. I hope you get it figured out/fixed. I guess that leaves more time for beer, so it's not all bad.

[TxCruzr]

Go pawn shop hopping while you have nothing to do. I was able to pickup a victor torch and gauges on the cheap. Well worth it. Also helps to make friends with welders cause then they let you store their bottles for them :gigem:

[CheapJeep]

It's not a big issue, it's just going to be more time consuming having to get another one shipped and send the other one back. I have some beverages on ice, so I'll probably end up just messing around in the shop or on pirate for the night. I should be getting a plasma within the next week or so though... :gigem:

[CheapJeep]

Pics.... I'm sparing the rear crossmember for Sharpe or else it'd already be chopped to pieces... Is it just me or doesn't it look like the housing's bent?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/WorkWeekend002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/WorkWeekend007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/WorkWeekend006.jpg

[JeepPhisherman]

Go pawn shop hopping while you have nothing to do. I was able to pickup a victor torch and gauges on the cheap. Well worth it. Also helps to make friends with welders cause then they let you store their bottles for them :gigem:


Did you buy them from the pawn shop next to copy corner? They've had a set there for a while.

Has your axle been eating u-joints robbie?

[CheapJeep]

No, but why would it?

[TxCruzr]

No, I got it when I was back home. There are a ton of people that think they can make it big by welding pipeline right out of high school and go out and buy all the equipment. After the first month or so they either get tired of working 90+ hours a week or can't afford the payments on the equipment they just bought and it all ends up in the pawn shop.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

No, I got it when I was back home. There are a ton of people that think they can make it big by welding pipeline right out of high school and go out and buy all the equipment. After the first month or so they either get tired of working 90+ hours a week or can't afford the payments on the equipment they just bought and it all ends up in the pawn shop.

or end up with a coke habit that even the 90+ hour salary cant keep up with. :gigem:

[TxCruzr]

or end up with a coke habit that even the 90+ hour salary cant keep up with. :gigem:

They had that before they started the job :rolleyes:
Being in hour away from the border right off a major hwy and interstate, you tend to have some "trafficing." The town is run by the rich so as long as you know someone you can walk the streets handing out alcohol and roofies to the kids without a problem.

Back on topic....Robbie, sell the thing and get rid of that headache :flipoff2:
Glad to see this build is without everything hanging from the roof by chains :gigem:

[eight]

Measure the distance between the tires at the top of them, and then at the bottom of them. Works best to go by the tread as sometimes sidewalls aren't real straight. When my axle was bent the difference was 2".

[CheapJeep]

Talked to Matt at BTF this morning, it was just a small mixup, they sent me a kit for 76 and up frames which are wider in the rear compared to my earlier model which is a bit narrower. No problem though, they make them for both and will ship the right kit out to me asap. :gigem:

[Reckless]

how much is the rear, cuz for the right price i might buy it

[colman]

are they making you send it back? cause that is the one that i was talking to you about since mine is an 81 and i need it. i can get cash and am goin gto start cutting on the jeep tuesday hopefully

[CheapJeep]

I paid $270 just as it's listed on their site. Yes it's getting sent back unless one of you wants to buy it, but I'm not taking any less than I paid for it. If you want to buy it, I need to know now so I can make something happen, otherwise it's getting shipped back. I need to get my new one asap...

[Reckless]

Just ship it back, i aint got the skrilla right now

[CheapJeep]

Colman already bought it. :gigem:

[CheapJeep]

The new BTF kit came in today so I will probably go home and get everything installed this weekend or next. As always, if there's ever a weekend in which anyone doesn't have much going on and wants free food and beverages you're more than welcome to spin wrenches with me. :gigem:

List of stuff still to complete.
-Finish grinding/cutting old shackle mounts and crossmember
-Weld new kit on
-hang XJ leaf's
-cut old perches and weld new ones on, hang axle back under jeep
-install fuel cell and run fuel lines
-lengthen brakelines

List of stuff to complete before Clayton Trip.
Musts....
-Finish stretch
-Finish new radiator/electric fan install
-build traction bar
Maybes....
-tubework
-lexan windshield
-dashwork/gauges

[CheapJeep]

I've finally decided to really tear into the jeep and "mothball" it in order to get everything I want done to it with a deadline of TCC. Currently I'm doing the stretch kit so I can fit a longer drivetrain in. Which brings me to my next question. What setup will be the most effective and relatively inexpensive? The current gearing and power with the 3 spd. and inline 6 just isn't cutting it and converting to efi or 2 barrel carb would cost just as much as finding a new motor. So these are the options I've come up with so far. TBI 350/465/205, 5.0H.O./c6/205, AMC 360/t18/300 (tbi conversion). I had been thinking about a 5.3 but with the extra costs of adapters to mate transmissions and t-cases up it would wind up being too expensive. I know that the sbc will be cheap and easy to find compared to the other two. 205's don't really have that great of low range, but adapter's are expensive. Opinion's Fred, Pollock, etc???

[CheapJeep]

Dad brought home a new toy last night, Miller 625 Plasma Cutter and a portable torch setup. :gigem:

[savvyaggie]

Dad brought home a new toy last night, Miller 625 Plasma Cutter and a portable torch setup. :gigem:


Cool!!!! U leavin it at home or bringing it back with you??

[robertf03]

I wouldn't swap in a 205, too heavy and not enough of an ugprade.
dana 300 should be the transfercase, or something aftermarket


360 or 302 would be good, either you get a Jeep engine or a lightweight cheap engine.

then figure out if you want an auto or manual.

[colman]

any chance of you bringing that plasma up here for a weekend? i still need to cut apart my rear and i always wanted to play with one of those

[eight]

Yea use a 300. If you want a low range manual, there's only one that doesn't require aftermarket adapters, and only I know how to do it I think. But with an auto, you could use a 360 and tf727 from a waggy and that will bolt to a 300. Some people with stock jeeps have issues with front driveshaft clearance but you shouldn't because of the full width axle.

[stx4wheeler]

302/t-18?/300 whatever ford tranny cj has to a 300. you can get a efi 302 for a pretty decent price, plus aftermarket upgrades are reasonable, and the motor is pretty light. or 302/c-6/300

[bcolman]

i have a jeep t400 for sale cheap if you want

[CheapJeep]

The plasma will stay at my dad's shop.

I figured that I could find a 5.0H.O. out of a wrecked pony car for fairly cheap. My main goal is to find a setup that I won't have to spend a ton of money on to piece together, I'd rather not spend hundred's of dollars on adapters. This narrows it down to the two Flem's talking about in order to run a 300. Trying to mate a 350/465/300 would require one of those fancy expensive adapters. Anyone know how much 360's and 302's as well as t18's and 300's run?

[robertf03]

you'll need an adapter for the t18 to 300

if you have to buy an adapter why not run the lowest 1st gear you can get? I'm pretty sure theres a way to get the sm420 behind a 302, and I know theres a way to get it behind amc v8s

do you not have a preference of auto or stick?

[CheapJeep]

I thought sm420's weren't syncronized? I like having a manual but then again I wouldn't be objective about an auto. I'm really just set on finding the best combo that will make the best power but not break the bank. I do have plans to go one ton and I currently have 38"s so I need something that has good power and gearing.

[robertf03]

not in 1st or reverse, same as t18

[CheapJeep]

Got a deal from Colman on what I thought was to be a 350/t400/205, but turned out to be a complete k5 frame with gas tank, steering box, steering column, leaf springs, radiator, driveshafts, and a fresh, rebuilt 350/th350/203. I'm going to ditch the 203 since it's full time 4 wheel drive and massive for a 205 instead. I also might swap the th350 for an sm465, but I'm still undecided.

[robertf03]

I wouldn't waste your time with that swap. Your taking out a crappy geared drivetrain and putting in a crappy geared drivetrain

[texasxj]

how much you want for the 203?

[eight]

I sell you 203 $50.

[texasxj]

Its the one with a chipped bolt ear or whatever right?

[eight]

yep

[CheapJeep]

I wouldn't waste your time with that swap. Your taking out a crappy geared drivetrain and putting in a crappy geared drivetrain
I really just wanted the motor. Like I said, I have the option of swapping to a 465 for free which has a 6.55:1 granny gear compared to the th350's 2.52:1 first gear.

[Doug Krebs]

I really just wanted the motor. Like I said, I have the option of swapping to a 465 for free which has a 6.55:1 granny gear compared to the th350's 2.52:1 first gear.

You need too want a standard to switch over too it. Remember the torque converter multiplication that you don't get with a standard.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

yeah, what krebs said.

[CheapJeep]

I'm used to driving a standard and I figured swapping to a 465 will help keep my driveshafts at a reasonable length. On the other hand if I can keep the th350 and still have a rear driveshaft I would be all over it. I wouldn't have to mess with clutch linkages or slave cylinders, etc...

[AggieTJ2007]

I thought that is why you stretched it, you just stretch untill the driveshaft fits

[uglyota]

are you going to unload your current tranny/tcase? Will they bolt up to a 304?

[CheapJeep]

Yes my current setup will bolt up to a 304. It might be awhile before I get the time to get it out though.

[AggieTJ2007]

i think that if you go with the auto that you need to go with a doubler of some sort

[CheapJeep]

Yeah, thanks for the post on pirate, made alot of sense doing a doubler. From what that guy said about me having enough room with the stretch I think I will have enough room for a doubler. I have that 203 but plan on getting a 205 so I could do a doubler with those. I'll have to build a beefy crossmember but it should work. The main reason I decided not to go with a twin sticked 300 4:1 is because of costs, a 205 will bolt right up.

[AggieTJ2007]

if you are basing this on cost, a

203/205 doubler $600-700

241/205 doubler $400
241 case max $175

Ide go with the 241 because it gets you lower gears, cost less, its easier to shift, easier to find if something happens to it.

But I will let you know how mine work out after Clayton

[eight]

Sell off that **** and just get the waggy stuff and a 300. Then you can just 4:1 the 300 later instead of a doubler with its length, weight, and cost drawbacks.

[CheapJeep]

Sorry Kopecki, Chevy/GMC runs deep in my family so I'm sticking with the 350. I know kind of :rainbow:.
It's alot easier to find parts and upgrade Chevy stuff than AMC stuff. Not to mention it was a pretty good deal, I didn't find any deals on 360's that could beat what I have now.

Creighton, are most of the costs related to the 203/205 doubler because of adapters and shift linkage or what? I have the 203 and could pick up a 205 for fairly cheap, so I'm guessing most of the costs come from other stuff. Let me know how your 241 doubler does, I thought there was alot of drawbacks using a chain driven case? Isn't a 203 chain driven?

[Doug Krebs]

Sorry Kopecki, Chevy/GMC runs deep in my family so I'm sticking with the 350. I know kind of :rainbow:.
It's alot easier to find parts and upgrade Chevy stuff than AMC stuff. Not to mention it was a pretty good deal, I didn't find any deals on 360's that could beat what I have now.

Creighton, are most of the costs related to the 203/205 doubler because of adapters and shift linkage or what? I have the 203 and could pick up a 205 for fairly cheap, so I'm guessing most of the costs come from other stuff. Let me know how your 241 doubler does, I thought there was alot of drawbacks using a chain driven case? Isn't a 203 chain driven?

You don't use the chain in the 241 doubler. It only uses the planetary gears which rarely have a problem in a 241. The 203 doubler is the same, only using the reduction part of the box.

The 241 also gives you a better low range as it has a 2.42 as opposed to whatever the 203 has. Thinks it's around 2.

[Sharpe]

The cost of 203/205 doublers is due to the machining of the adapters. No kits I know of come with shifters so the ~$700 price is the adapter and intermediate shaft alone. One other option you might want to consider is the Northwest Fab black box. Its a cheaper version of the Klune V that is actually a little better. It uses the planetaries from a 241 and I believe it costs around $1400, which isnt that bad once you add up the cost of a different adapter, case, etc.

[Sharpe]

Black box. If I ever actually do a doubler I'll probably do this.

http://www.northwestfab.com/blackbox.html

[CheapJeep]

Those black boxes look pretty sweet, but pricey. It'll be awhile before I decide on or can afford a doubler, atlas, etc... I'll just find a 205 for cheap and run it for now.

Here's my wishful list of things to accomplish over the winter break between hunting.

-Finish welding on stretch kit
-Make new upper rear shock mounts on frame
-Cut/turn/redrill 1-2" foward on new rear perches
-Lengthen rear brakelines
-Cut sections of the cage out for fuel cell and new dash setup
-Run new fuel lines and install fuel cell
-Pull old drivetrain
-Make new motormounts/tranny/t-case crossmember with new plasma
-Go through 350/th350/205
-Cut floorboard/drop in new drivetrain
-Lengthen/Shorten front and rear driveshafts
-Build anti wrap bar
-Install chevy power master cylinder
-Decide on radiator/electric fan setup
-Connect throttle cable/engine electrical/shifters

If I can scrape up the skrilla buy chromoly rear shafts from Clarke and figure out something for the front shafts.

There's several other things I'll need to get done over time as well such as redoing parts of the cage, building stinger/radiator hoop, front tube fenders, gauges, c.b., and sound system.

My objective is to get as much as I can accomplished over the break and have it ready before TCC.

[CheapJeep]

Finally fired up the plasma tonight. It kicks some ass. Tomorrow I'm going to finish up the stretch kit, new perches, and get the axle back under it. I'll also begin cutting up the k5 frame and get the motor/trans out. I need to get everything situated in the shop so that I have room to start the drivetrain swap.

[CheapJeep]

Got the stretch kit completely done. Just need a set of xj bushings for the shackle hanger's, I thought that yj bushings might work but they didn't. I got a little carried away with the plasma and cut my rear fenders some more. Plan is to weld the tailgate shut and put the taillights in there. Anyway, enough jibbajabba, heres some pics.

Start.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit001.jpg

Weapon of choice.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit003.jpg

Rear crossmember off and framerails shaved.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit005.jpg

Left frame rail bent so I straightened it as best as I could. Leveled and squared away, kit tacked on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit013.jpg

XJ spring hung, missing the bushing but you get the idea of how far the axle will be set back by the center pin.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit018.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit021.jpg

The 350/th350 combo, along with k5 frame and an assortment of parts.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit010.jpg

[CheapJeep]

Oh, and if you look in the 3rd picture you can see how the left frame rail dips down and inward. As I said, I bent it back as best as I could, but it was still off by about .25"-.50" compared to the other side. I just had to compensate with the kit a little, no biggie.

[Sharpe]

If you're just gonna weld it shut anyway want to sell me the tailgate and surrounding sheetmetal and you just weld a solid piece of sheet in there?

[redcagepatrol]

sweet jackstands!

[CheapJeep]

Sharpe, you're actually getting to something that I've been contemplating for quite some time. I've been thinking about "backhalfing" it, like just running tube from the main hoop back then make some removable sheetmetal skins or something like that. The other idea I had after getting the kit on today was dovetailing it... I really like the way that the BTF kit looks but the rear of the jeep just doesn't look the way I want it to.

I'll let you know once I make a decision on this, if you want it either you'll need to come down here and cut it out yourself or give me a pretty good description of what you want.

[CheapJeep]

sweet jackstands!
Thanks Scott, I've been waiting for that. I mean first it was the scaffolding and hoists, now this. Wait til I get to the motor swap...

Here's some pics of what I've been thinking about as far as backhalfing it and whatnot. I'll need to make a decision on this soon because the fuel cell and other things will need to be planned with it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/135.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/image0003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/PICT0013mail.jpg

[95discovery]

you realized that if you back-half that thing, it might actually look nice and i thought you were trying to stay away from that :flipoff2:

oh yea, i wanna try that plasma out

[redcagepatrol]

I like that middle one - that's a pretty sweet looking rig!

[BMFScout]

I like the middle one too, I think you need a Beard loveseat in the back of Lynda's jeep Scott.

[CheapJeep]

I busted ass on the Jeep today around the normal stall cleaning/horse stuff, yesterday was the first time I touched the jeep for the whole break. So I'm pleased with the progress I've made.

Here's some pics.

Bushings/springs/shackles on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit024.jpg

Axle shaved.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit027.jpg

Axle under, aligning perches.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit032.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit035.jpg

Holy, ****!!! It's a prerunner, I didn't expect the springs to sag that much.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit046.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit043.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit048.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/JeepStretchKit047.jpg

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Lookin good Robbie!

It looks like it might be time for some rear springs, that right side looks almost flat from the pics. If you are going to cut up the tailgate and put it on like in this pic...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/image0003.jpg

then make sure it still opens and you can use the space for something. Keep it useable, not just bolted up cause that would be uber gay. :rainbow: :flipoff2:

[BMFScout]

I say a fuel cell with a cooler on top, very usable!!

[BMFScout]

looks badass robbie!

[colman]

well robbie you are in luck i happen to have a set of 2" lift springs that i might let go

[AggieTJ2007]

why don't you drop the front to match it is too high as it is already

[TxCruzr]

why don't you drop the front to match it is too high as it is already

x2

[CheapJeep]

I wasn't planning on changing the rear, I love how low it sits now surprisingly enough. I think Ed was the one who mentioned something about changing them.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

BWAHAHAHA, I recomend never listening to me on any advice I may give you on a jeep, it is probably as bad or maybe even worse than any that Kopecki may give you. :flipoff3: Now that the comp cut is finished, I say drop it like is hot and SUA that sucka!!!

[CheapJeep]

Nah, I like it soa, flexes better. The stock xj springs have some arch to them, my spring hangers are way up there and make them look flat. With the 350 being close to the same weight as the 258 it's not going to sag anymore in the front. I'll probably just remove a couple of leafs or swap to a stock YJ pack.

[Reckless]

It will sag more than you would think.

[AggieTJ2007]

no the 258 and 4.0 are some heavy ass engine, they probably weigh more than the 350

[colman]

how about you go buy a winch to add some weight

[Reckless]

From Novak
Suspension & Engine Weight
You'll be replacing one of three factory engines. Their nominal estimated, accessory loaded weights are:
•2.8L V6, 365 lbs.
•2.5L I4, 340 lbs.
•4.0L I6, 515 lbs.

Engines you may replace these with may include:
•Chevy 4.3L V6, 425 lbs.
•Chevy Small Block V8 (Gen. I & II), 550 lbs.
•Chevy Small Block V8 (Gen.III), 470 lbs.
•Chevy Small Block V8 (LS1), 407 lbs.
•Buick 90 degree V6, 375 lbs.
•Buick 60 degree V6, 350 lbs.

[AggieTJ2007]

ok i am guessing the a 258 weighs more than the 4.0l which weighs 515 lbs and a SBC only weighs 550 at most. therefore I think that they probably weigh the same and not enough difference to matter

[CheapJeep]

With the 350 being close to the same weight as the 258 it's not going to sag anymore in the front.

:gigem:

I plan on welding a receiver hitch to the front so I can borrow my dad's M12000.

[CheapJeep]

Kinda cool but my dad spotted this one night at a Whataburger in S.A. back during hunting season so he snapped a couple pics for me.

This is pretty much what mine is going to look like but without 49"s or whatever those are...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/WhataburgerSighting2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/Whataburgersighting7.jpg

The plan right now is to install the new radiator, electric fans, hookup rear brakelines, rear driveshaft, etc... Just alot of tedious work. Then I'll wheel it like it is for the spring while I build my motor, 1 tons, etc.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

Smokin'

I sure could use me a whataburger right about now....

[redcagepatrol]

maybe you should rename your name to expensive Jeep :flipoff2:

[bburris]

I think "money pit" is a more fitting term.

[TxCruzr]

I was thinking something along the lines of "Project: I change my jeep more than my underwear" :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

maybe you should rename your name to expensive Jeep :flipoff2:
Steepjeep rolls off the tongue better :gigem:

[bburris]

Skeetjeep rolls off the tongue better :gigem:
What you two do behind closed doors stays there. Period.






















:flipoff2:

[CheapJeep]

Well initially when I bought it in highschool my only intentions were to put a small lift and tires on it then wheel it at a couple of places back home and hunting at the ranch. My neighbor that I showed horses with had it sitting in their pasture and offered to sell it cheap so that's how I ended up getting it. It had alot of bondo, holes, and rust, not to mention that the rear right leaf was missing the bolt going through the hanger so whenever you made a left turn it'd smack the frame. The tires all leaked, hardly any brakes, channel locks held the downtube to the exhaust manifold (the previous owner even tied a string from the firewall to the CL's so you wouldn't lose them).

Somewhere in between deciding what I wanted to do with it and searching offroad forums I got lost and came across tamor... The rest is pretty much history, I bought some axles, a full width kit, etc, and started working on it the summer before college. Then I joined this band of hooligans and my jeep has continued to evolve into what you see above.

[CheapJeep]

Set the pinion angle, welded perches on, and bolted spring plates/u-bolts back on. Hooked up rear brakelines and rear driveshaft. I'm gonna try and get the driveshaft lengthened at bvd sometime this week but if all else fails I'll just do it myself. Mounted rear shocks and ran the fuel lines through the tub but I need to find some fittings to mate them to the fuel cell lines. Tomorrow I'll install the radiator and hookup the electric fan, then see if I can get something done with the fuel cell. Other than that I just need to lengthen the rear driveshaft and it'll be ready to go.

[CheapJeep]

Just thought of this but I might be able to use the k5 rear driveshaft I have laying around. I'll try it tomorrow.

[CheapJeep]

Got the Jeep finished enough to load it on the trailer and brought it back to cs. I ended up using a k5 front driveshaft for the rear but I'll need to get a conversion u-joint 1310/1330 for the rear yoke. Installed the gas tank to where it'll work for the trip if I run out of time to get the fuel cell in. I got the radiator in but still need to hookup the electric fan. All seemed to be going really well, I hitched up the trailer and drove the Jeep around to load it. A couple trips back either Alto or TCC I noticed a popping sound coming from the rear, I assumed it was the drop in locker slipping. Well today when I gave it even a little bit of power it would disengage letting the driveshaft spin or only the rear left would spin. I put it in low and got it on the trailer while smoking the front tires. So now I need to pull the diff cover and assess the situation. My guess is that it's the locker but Sharpe said that it could be that the pinion bearing went out and allowed the gears to nuke themselves. Guess I'll find out tomorrow.

[colman]

what kind of locker, if its the one that i'm thinking of the little pins have a nasty habbit of breaking, all ya gota do is replace the broken of the 4

[CheapJeep]

It's a powertrax

[Reckless]

Feck it, weld it up!

[CheapJeep]

That's my plan if Ryan doesn't have his old 8.8" carrier/gears that I can buy. I don't plan on having the ol 8.8" for much longer, summertime will bring the motor swap and won-ton's.

[RCcola55]

ya come buy and get them, the carrier is a little rusty

[stx4wheeler]

it is in the back yard

[TxCruzr]

won-ton's.

Untill you own an oriental, you better lay off the won-tons :flipoff2:

[Reckless]

Thats Ed's quotes, patent pending...

[CheapJeep]

ya come buy and get them, the carrier is a little rusty
Thanks. :gigem: If I end up having to pull the old gears/carrier would you be available to set the new ones?

[RCcola55]

should just swap no problem, you arent going to really have to set up the gears if it is just a carrier swap

[CheapJeep]

Jeep done. :gigem:

[colman]

what was the problem witht he rear end?

[AggieTJ2007]

the locker read the other thread

[colman]

he said that he welded up the locker and that doesn't make sense, did he fix the locker or weld the spiders or something else, i did read the other thread thankyou very much

[Sharpe]

It makes perfect sense. He welded a drop in locker into "permanently locked mode"

[colman]

i had never heard of doing that so my bad, heard of a lincoln locker so would this be a really expensive lincoln locker .. ?

[CheapJeep]

The rear has or rather "had" a lock right/powertrax. Ryan and I looked at it after pulling the cover and noticed that it wasn't engaging. So we welded a piece of flat stock in between the two halves to keep it locked on both sides then ran a couple beads along each side where the teeth meet. Kind of hard to explain but it works.

[colman]

you don't still have your original rear d44 still sitting around do you?

[CheapJeep]

nah, I sold the d30 and d44 to Kopecki about a year and a half ago.

So I got to thinking last night about the color of my Jeep... I'm pretty tired of the black and red, not to mention the color scheme is that of a rival school. I mean I can't show up to their event representing their colors. So I came up with a new scheme that I've been wanting to try. It'll do for now until I get everything else done this summer and do a "real" paint job on it. The body is staying black but I'll have to wait until it's less windy to paint the cage, bumpers, hangers, etc... Pics to follow completion.

[Sharpe]

And less cold. If you try to paint in temps like this it will come out looking like crumpled aluminum foil.

[CheapJeep]

Yes I already found that out while painting the rear btf kit when it was 40 something outside.

[JeepPhisherman]

My front axle needs building if you've got nothing better to do than paint an already painted rig :flipoff2:

Just spray a block ATM on the hood and be done with it.

[DRAGOONRANCH]

put the 'saw'em off' like on the lonestar showdown. oh wait a minute, you didn't go to clayton to see it. my bad. :flipoff3:

[sasquatch]

paint the cage, bumpers, hangers, etc... Pics to follow completion.

hot pink?

[Sharpe]

hot pink?
Think something a little more played out...

[jerryg79]

Think something a little more played out...

i dont know what color your ass is :flipoff2:

[TxCruzr]

Wait to see what tonights score is after we whoop their ass, then paint that on the hood :gigem:

[Fredo]

*cough*public section*cough-cough*

Eh, who am I kidding. There will probably be some good drunken **** talking this weekend. :gigem:

[AggieTJ2007]

you should wheel it and at least scratch the paint before you repaint it

[CheapJeep]

yea yea I know this paint scheme's been "played out" by alot of people but it looks a ton better than the red did. The red had started to fade a little and I didn't cover the top that well but I got it right this time around. Yes those are trashbags over the seats... I made sure to not spray over everything in sight. :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/GrabberGreenJeep005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/GrabberGreenJeep004.jpg

[J Cooper]

that does look better... i dont dig the diff covers though. but thats just personal preference... i like it all one color.

[TxCruzr]

Glad you didn't go with my idea....didn't work out like I had hoped. The green does look good.
One questions though. How much over spray got on pigpen and has robert noticed yet :D

[colman]

you forgot your shock mounts, and thanks for steeling the paint scheme from my rail

[Sharpe]

The wind was blowing from the north so pigpen was upwind. Now, overspray all over the rest of the jeep is a different story...

[CheapJeep]

No overspray on pigpen, I just assumed leaving the aluminum foil look he's got going alone. Still not sure on the diff covers either, might be a little much.

[robertf03]

this is the reason I no longer associate with the local jeep club

solid color or single color + black. those are your heterosexual color options

[CheapJeep]

I left the shock mounts and front shackle hangers silver to match the headlight grills. There really wasn't much overspray on the tub, the few spots there were I shot some flat black over. I did find some "spray dust" that settled on the gas tank and bedliner interior but it wipes right off.

[J Cooper]

this is the reason I no longer associate with the local jeep club

solid color or single color + black. those are your heterosexual color options


does that mean ytou dont like my stripes ? :confused:

[CheapJeep]

I'm really likin' the green and black, now if I only had some red headlights... Grave Digger!!! :flipoff2:

One more.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v404/blink05/GrabberGreenJeep002.jpg

[TxCruzr]

You must have missed the Trick My Truck show where they did the grave digger themed truck and put tiny red LEDs in the head lights. You should do it :gigem:

[colman]

now convince sharp to paint his thing something, anything but what it is

[CheapJeep]

this is the reason I no longer associate with the local jeep club

solid color or single color + black. those are your heterosexual color options
Man Flem, I'm just feckin' up by your standards... Choppin' the tub, using "played out" and ugly colors, etc... :D

[CheapJeep]

anything but what it is
and what would that be? Rust red, aluminum foil, and faded baby blue?

[Sharpe]

Its red metal primer, bare steel rust, $0.96 silver and faded baby blue. *****

[Reckless]

if it looked nice, then the pig pen name would be void.

[RockHillCJ-6]

looks good! oh, and for the grave digger red headlights you could be cheap and use some of that transparent red taillight tape...cheap and removable

[BMFScout]

Man Flem, I'm just feckin' up by your standards... Choppin' the tub, using "played out" and ugly colors, etc... :D

...making it to the trailhead! :flipoff2:

[Sharpe]

...making it to the trailhead! :flipoff2:
That one's gonna leave a mushroom bruise! :gigem:

[CheapJeep]

Hey now, it's been on a number of trips you were just tcfs and weren't there... :D

I finally put on a few stickers I'd been saving up, looks official now. :gigem:

[jerryg79]

what is tcfs?

[CheapJeep]

too cool for school.

[jerryg79]

ummm no tcs is to cool for school.

[CheapJeep]

ah, well close enough.

[BMFScout]

that was a shot at Flem, I've seen yours on the trail, Flem was before my time.

[CheapJeep]

Damn I suck at the internet...

[agjohn02]

that was a shot at Flem, I've seen yours on the trail, Flem was before my time.


seriously? even you havent seen it wheel? wow, flem, its worse than i thought.

[BMFScout]

When I first met him it was his only means of transportation, but I never saw it wheel.

[Doug Krebs]

When I first met him it was his only means of transportation, but I never saw it wheel.

I remember winching it through a rock garden at Llano. Then trying to pull it back to the road and kept getting stuck. I went to sleep wrapped in my tent underneath the blazer. When I was sleeping Wolverton had pulled it all the way back to the road.

[jerryg79]

The red rocket pulled it to get exhaust put on one time. I think he drove it home after that.

[colman]

what's your wb @ now?

[CheapJeep]

With the front BTF kit, redrilled rear perches, rear spring hangers pushed back, and BTF stretch kit WB is at around 101-102".

I'm planning on swapping the front Rubicon Express soa YJ leaf's out for a set of stock waggy's to get it lower and to push the axle forward a little. For the rear I'll be making some new shock towers and adding an anti-wrap bar. The anti-wrap will probably wait until I get 1 tons but that should be pretty soon. I've already come across several deals that are what I'm looking for, just figuring out the best one and awaiting contact info. I have the 350 completely disassembled and the block is ready to be shipped off to be bored and honed. I've decided to stick with a carb setup for the time being for sake of ease.

I'll be pulling the th350 trans and 203 case, as well as whatever else I decide to keep from the k5 frame tomorrow. I've finally made a decision on my t-case setup after much deliberation and research. I really don't want to drop a ton of money on a new case or used case with rebuild and gearing kits... I came across BillaVista's 203/jeep dana20 doubler article on pirate and decided to do the same. I have access to a machine/custom fab shop through my dad that has all the skills and equipment to make the adapter and input/output shafts. Unless someone has a spare jeep dana 20 case lying around (I know there used to be one over at 218) that I could borrow, I'll have to wait until after TCC when I start the swap to pull mine. I'm still doing more research on Advance Adapter's hd output shaft and Teralow 3.15:1 kit for the d20. The main concern that anyone has voiced with the 203/20 or 203/300 swap is the rear driveshaft length. With my wheelbase already at 101-102", the ability to place my motor/trans mounts (for the new drivetrain) further forward, and the fact that I'm lowering the front and pushing the axle forward with waggy leafs, I should be just fine.

I did all the numbers and if I were to go with a dana300 twin sticked and 4:1'd with the adapter I'd be within a couple hundred dollars of a stak or atlas. I could make a 203/205 happen for fairly cheap but the size and weight would leave me with hardly any floorboard and hangdown too low because I can't clock it enough to squeeze between the narrow 74 frame rails. With the 203/d20 it's still going to be a little on the heavy side and require me to cut and redo some of the floor but it ain't no thang. I should be able to reuse my old Tom Woods rear driveshaft after I do the swap too since it was way too short after the stretch kit.

[eight]

If you can make the adapter yourself or cheap, why not just do it with a 300? Sure if you don't want to wait for a deal you'll have to pay 200 or so for the 300, but aren't the low gears and output for the 300 cheaper than for the 20? Then you get real twin sticks and lower low gears.

[CheapJeep]

You got it right for the most part. I don't want to spend extra money and time finding and rebuilding a d300. My d20's ready to go, I just replaced the seals not too long ago. The twin sticks are the same price from what I saw on ebay but then again I could do my own thing with that as well. Not set on a low gear kit yet due to the cost, but I'm sure they are about the same as the d300 kit, couldn't imagine why they'd be different cost wise? Really the main thing is the convenience factor, I already have the 20 and don't have to do anything to it if I don't feel like it. If I bought a 300 it'd most likely need some money to get it in working order. Both are old school cast iron and can hold up to some thrashing so that's not an issue. Upgrading to an hd output shaft is the only thing that I feel might need to be checked out but that's about it.

[colman]

i got my 4:1 gears new shipped for 400 or 450

[73bronco]

dana 20's are around $800-1200 for the low gear sets

[DRAGOONRANCH]

holy cow pie batman, can you even get a 4:1 for that price?!?!

[CheapJeep]

That's the basic price range from what I found for the d20. Sam's offroad has them for around 6 bills which is close to the d300 kit. The whole idea of going with the doubler is so I don't have to dump a ton of money on a low gear kit and other things. Like I said before, if I were to build a 300 twin sticked, 4:1, and bolt it straight up to the th350 I could spend the same on a stak or atlas. For now I'm not going to spend any money on low gearing kits and whatnot. If I like the 203/d20 setup but find that I need some more gearing I might invest in a kit at a later time. I just can't justify spending a ton of money on a low gearing kit or an atlas/stak any time soon.

[colman]

i found a guy on pirate and got a deal on mine, good luck with the doubler

[AggieTJ2007]

ask me where I got mine and I am sure I can get you another for a very good price and you won't have to rebuild it

[CheapJeep]

pm'd you.

[agjohn02]

not trying to start crap, just trying to help actually. how is all this going to be paid for? reason i ask is this, im on my second major build and i know how quickly the budget goes out the window. take just my initial engine swap on the scout for instance. i got a great deal on the engine, trans and t-case, then spent that much more getting it in and running. that was with fabbing all my own stuff. now the way ive got it figured, you're planning on building pretty much the same thing scott and i are building at the moment. you are trying to cut corners in the t-case but obviously not in the engine and you have more of a platform to start on, but the most expensive part is what you are planning. i just dont see a lot of room for cost savings. i know for a fact that my project is no where near a college student's budget. i am keeping detailed records and know exactly how much this thing has already cost and still have trouble projecting the exact end cost. lots of little things, you know. are you getting help with funding or just underestimating the cost?

[Doug Krebs]

not trying to start crap, just trying to help actually. how is all this going to be paid for? reason i ask is this, im on my second major build and i know how quickly the budget goes out the window. take just my initial engine swap on the scout for instance. i got a great deal on the engine, trans and t-case, then spent that much more getting it in and running. that was with fabbing all my own stuff. now the way ive got it figured, you're planning on building pretty much the same thing scott and i are building at the moment. you are trying to cut corners in the t-case but obviously not in the engine and you have more of a platform to start on, but the most expensive part is what you are planning. i just dont see a lot of room for cost savings. i know for a fact that my project is no where near a college student's budget. i am keeping detailed records and know exactly how much this thing has already cost and still have trouble projecting the exact end cost. lots of little things, you know. are you getting help with funding or just underestimating the cost?

I think you are just trying to start ****! :flipoff2: