Crossover and hydroassist

[Doug Krebs]

Since I'm in a little bit of a time crunch to get this done, I'll bug ya'll for help instead of doing the research like I usually do and then bug ya'll.'

Lets start with the crossover. Which tie rod ends are the best to use? tie rod charg (http://www.partsmikeparts.com/tre_comparison.htm) Which one have ya'll had the best luck with? I know some of them are twice the price. I've also read not to use drag link ends on the tie rod. I also noticed the taper isn't the same. Which is the popular taper everyone has?

[davido]

The only advice I have is BIG. I can jack my front end up by my tie rod. Not that you need to, but I saw Troy hang the FF Jeep from his on a rock in CO without bending. That was a plus in my book.

[uglyota]

chevy wonton, unless you are cool then it's FJ80
there's a company that makes rebuildable heims with a tapered mounting post. you might look into them. don't remember who it was though, search pirate

[BMFScout]

I used Chevy one-ton and that is what most of the steering arms bought commercially are tapered for correct? I just had Vilas "Bridge ream?" the pitman arm to match the TRE. I just took them both in and said make it fit. Here's a link to a pic, looks like "ES2026R" to me. As far as the hydro part, Tom @ PSC is who helped Fred, although he just has the box and pump thus far.

http://www.offroadrepublic.com/gallery/view_photo.php?full=1&set_albumName=album06&id=aad

[davido]

That's a good idea. I never thought about having Villas do that. The company that I bought my arms from couldn't do it. I'll probably have Villas do that to the arms once my ends wear out and I need to replace them. What does that cost?

[BMFScout]

seems like it was 20 something to have the pitman done, but I had them press in new ball joints at the same time so I don't really remember.

[chevsu]

i went to napa and go the book out for TREs, and found the biggest they had before it went to a 1 1/4 thread. the biggest part of the taper is .899 and the smallest is .780. i think i only paid about $50 a piece for them. i don't really know what they came on but they look bigger than the ones in the link you have. i think that taper is 1 1/2 per foot. let me know if you want part #s

[chevsu]

one pic

[Doug Krebs]

cool, thanks cody. give the part numbers if it's not too big of a pain.

[chevsu]

269-2138, 269-2139

[Doug Krebs]

where did you wankers buy your tre ream? Anyone want to let me borrow theirs? :gigem:

[agjohn02]

vilas

[Doug Krebs]

vilas

are you saying buy the ream from them or have them ream them out? I have 4 total. I also, might do this again if a dana 60 finds itself under the blazer permenatly

[agjohn02]

have them do it. it should be cheaper. they prolly already have the ream.

[agjohn02]

although, i do seem to remember some taper reams in the ME shop. not certain though.

[Doug Krebs]

I'll have to check with mike, I'll tell him you told me he has one :flipoff2:

I can't see Villas charging less than $30 to ream 4 holes. I found one on ebay that alot of pirate people use for $42 shipped. I'd rather own one at that price.

Of course if some nice person would let me borrow one... :gigem:

[73bronco]

where did you wankers buy your tre ream? Anyone want to let me borrow theirs? :gigem:

I just ordered one that will work for the chevy TR's, I'll make you a deal, reamer for tap use

[fbronco86]

I'll have to check with mike, I'll tell him you told me he has one :flipoff2:

I can't see Villas charging less than $30 to ream 4 holes. I found one on ebay that alot of pirate people use for $42 shipped. I'd rather own one at that price.

Of course if some nice person would let me borrow one... :gigem:

grayson has the reamer.

[73bronco]

UPS just delivered the reamer, tube, and new shafts so whenever youre ready to make the tie rods let me know.

[JB]

i might need to use a reamer soon. SO it can ream the hole out to fit the 1ton TRE?

Also, I already drilled out the hole in my knuckle to 5/8". ANyone know if that hole can still be reamed to fit the 1 ton TRE?

[JB]

The es2026 and es2027 are the ends that I have seen used. I know we have them in stock at work, and I think they were $22.

Krebs, you weren't sure about running the drag link ends in the tie rod. I was planning on doing this. What would be wrong with it?

[73bronco]

I think 5/8 might be too much, but not 100% on that

[Sharpe]

Back to the top. I am going to re-do the steering on Pigpen since the draglink is too long, the ends are worn out, and the factory tie-rod is bent a little.

I basically want to do it with the same size stuff as Garrett. He gave me the part numbers for the ends, but I need to know what inner diameter the tube needs to be to tap the threads so I can order it. Here are the part numbers and links to the ones I am planning on using. I still need to locate a left side tie rod end that doesnt have the hole for the draglink like Garrett's though.

Left side tierod- any suggestions or applications to look up?
Right side tierod- es2234r
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=MRC&PartNumber=ES2234R&Description=Tie+Rod+End+-+Outer
Left side draglink- es2027L
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=MRC&PartNumber=ES2027L&Description=Drag+Link
Right side draglink- es2026r
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=MRC&PartNumber=ES2026R&Description=Drag+Link

Why would you want to use drag link ends on the tierod anyway? From what I understand, draglink ends have more range of motion than TREs but its not like the tierod needs it. It seems like most people use tierod ends on draglinks, I can only assume its because they have shorter shanks and are less likely to bend.

[Sharpe]

Found a left side TRE without the hole.

es2010l
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=MRC&PartNumber=ES2010L&Description=Tie+Rod+End+-+Outer

Its twice as expensive as all the others though, I wonder why. Is a 7/8" shank the largest you can get? Is that a one ton size, half, or 3/4? I think I'm going to go ruin the napa guy's day tomorow and ask them to bust out the draglink book just to confirm the shank size question. Those numbers John posted are the ones aparently everyone uses so they are probably going to be my best bet.

[chevsu]

you can get a 1" shank TRE

[Shaggy]

i bought some 1" shank ones at napa... i still need to find someone with a tap so i can thread these.... you have one cody?.. reverse thread too?

[agjohn02]

when i ordered my drag link it came with the same threads at both ends. i cant adjust it without taking one of the DLEs out, but then why would you need to adjust it once you set it correctly. i never have. this would let you run the shorter Chevy ES2027L DLE on both ends.

so, does this look like the best combination:

DLE on both ends
MRCES2027L- $21.99 - 7/8" shank

TRE
MRCES2011R- $24.49 - 1” shank
MRCES2064L- $36.99 - 1” shank
these are much cheaper than the ones cody is running

the NAPA part #'s add a MRC on the beginning

what did you end up doing robert?

[Sharpe]

I used all the ones that I posted. For the draglink, I used 1/4 wall tube and for the tierod I used 3/8 wall. I never did find the correct ID for tapping it so I just bought the tube from the same place Garrett did. It was probably way overpriced but it had the correct ID for tapping 7/8-18 threads and they sold it by the foot. It all works great now and pigpen has straight steering for the first time ever.